As someone who doesn't have a jointer, my track saw is my go to for edge joints. I run the blade down the edge of two pieces at once, guaranteeing they are parallel. Its especially great for running extra long edges 12+ feet, for long tables.
I bought this saw with the both rails and yes this saw is amazing. I don’t particularly need a miter saw in the work I do but on rare occasions. Being able to use this on the fsk rails is perfect. Also the quality is great, and dead accurate. It’s quite expensive almost double what I paid for my Makita. I’d buy it again though.
You're definitely correct about the cord needing to be fixed. The difference is that Europe runs on double the voltage, so they use only half the amps which is where we run into the issue. I would argue that this does replace the TS 55 FEQ, but not the TSC 55 KEB. The cordless track saw is invaluable. When I go to get sheet goods that are a store that doesn't have a panel saw (I've got a Corolla), there's no better solution than having a cordless track saw. Another fantastic review!
@@michaels3003 I think any intelligent should consult an electrician. The point still stands that there’s less current flowing through the wires in Europe than here.
@@michaels3003 Correct. So do you agree the most probable reason it’s a fixed cord is because we run on a lower voltage than Europe, the higher current exceeds the regulated limit?
@@AaronGeller , this requires specific knowledge of the electrical connector that the company would have used and it's cost. Companies generally do not explain this or they use PR type statements. They must have assumed that the attached cord will not have much impact on sales. They will save money on the support (no cord connection issues).
Good to hear your view on metric, started my apprenticeship in 1973 and it’s all I’ve ever used here in Scotland. Find imperial measurement such a pain in the ass and takes a lot more time to mark out and set jobs!
I don’t need to replace my ts 55 but if I did then I would shop for one out of country. The no plug it cord is a bit of a deal breaker. Just more stupid US consumer protection BS to deal with.
I don't own a track saw yet, but I would like to buy one eventually. I would mainly be using it to break down plywood. I have been using a Skil circular saw from the 90's.
Where do the batteries go and what is the black wire hanging off the back of the saw? Jk I know it is corded. I am just waiting for the cordless version to release. Cant be too far off considering they have the 8 ah high power batteries in Europe now.
I use the 10m hose/cord with the sleeve in my shop. The dust extractor stays parked and I can take the hose from the sheet good cutting table to the sanding table and anywhere in between for routing, dominoing, etc.. Having to deal with a hardwired tracksaw would be a step in the wrong direction for me.
I have a small shop so I do all my large board work with my TS 75. Works fantastic. Great review. I wish I had the cash to buy a TS 60. I like the fact that it works with the FSK tracks. I also think track saws are the safest way to create a straight edge to run along a table saw fence.
Having no plug-it cord on this is entirely a non issue for me. I did plug it conversions on 6 different tools...then put all the original cords back on 3 months later. I hated constantly switching the plug- it to different tools. Instead I just installed a multi outlet strip on the side of my custom plywood CT platform. I leave 2-4 tools plugged in and then only need to swap hose
Not sure on the power cord thing - That saw is listed at 1500watts, but the TS75 is 1600 watts and that has a removable cord. The higher wattage tools have a different socket without the peak in the connecter. That means the higher wattage cords (bigger wire in the cord) can power any machine, but the lower wattage cords can't be used on the higher watt appliances. I am not sure where you got your info and even if you got it from Festool if they were telling the whole story.
great review...the depth adjustment in metirc is a deal breaker for me...I have and always will use inches and if the saw is sold in the US why not make it for inches??
Thanks for the overview Jason. I'm content with my TS 55 FEQ. No removable cord and no riving knife kind of turn me off of this one. I'm sure it's great to use, but for me it's not a big enough leap over my current saw.
I have redacted my earlier comment about it being made in China. I called Highland Woodworking in Atlanta and they assured me that it is made in Germany. I had been earlier misinformed. Yes I own Festool tools. A dust extractor and two sanders and soon a new track saw.
Great Summary as always - Thanks! Curious why there is an option to disable kick-back and when would you need to disable. I had seen the saw in Woodcraft and wondered why it was hard wired, thinking a disconnect might be a future version - thanks for explaining!
Thanks Jason! I downloaded the owner's manual, it indicated "Only deactivate the KickbackStop function if you are working without a rail and your workpiece is so uneven that the KickbackÂStop function would unintentionally be trigÂgered several times." Very intresting workaround!
Hi @bentswoodworking. Can you confirm for a TS60K, that the adjustment screws for this procedure are the single screws on both sides of the top of the saw which are holding down the metal blocks (below the angle adjustment knobs)? Neither the screws or metal piece are specifically called out in functional description section of the TS60K operation manual, but are visible on the diagram. Or if you could make a video which discusses the calibration process for the TS60K?
Thanks Jason. A couple questions - Can you calibrate this guy to the existing tracks (mainly other saws). Would you get this guy or wait for the one with the scoring blade if you had to pick one.
I myself hadn’t had issues swapping saws and tracks but all mine have the thin kerf blade. As for the TSV 60 it’s hard to say. You would be dealing with more weight when using the saw. But, you would have the scoring feature
We in the UK get the plug-it, but I'd hold off unless/until the cordless version is released, surely an option with the new 8.0Ahr batteries? For me, the big plus is the ability to use it with the FSK carpentry rails. I'd still like a scoring cut quick setting, but to be honest it's so quick to simply set the 3mm (8mm) depth then set it back to full depth...still...
What Festool dust extractor do you recommend for this saw, and maybe a sander? I have whole-shop central dust collection so not looking to boil the ocean and Festool has too many choices in extractors. Bluetooth looks really nice but not sure it's needed.
I’d like to purchase the hardwired track saw, but everywhere I’ve found the saw they only offer it with a plug it cord. Where did you make your purchase?
Jason, I have the ts 75 and assortment of rails for the saw. Is there anyway I can convert to the ts 60 and keep my rails? I see an issue with the kerf and getting the plastic strips to line up
The european model has plug-in-cords! It's all beacuse of the usual US-Current of 110 Volts. Tha cable and plugs have to suffer the double amount of Ampères. So they got to have double dimensions (diametre of cable). The plug should be bigger as well. So festool went the easy way. No big problem, as you said. The compact motorhousing has one more advantage: The motor never gets in collisions with any mountings left from the rail (clamps, and things)!!
does the ts60 also have a "depth limiting button " like the tsv60? if it does i'm getting one tomorrow ... if not .. thats a deal breaker .. common sense says it needs it more since it doesnt have a scoring blade right?
Sounds silly, but I'd really like to see digital readouts for angle, depth, and even RPM, perhaps a few other features. We are getting to brushless in our tools, yet we keep leaving out other modern tech. Maybe, laser measures and digital just isn't accurate enough? Even if that was the case, an analog gear set, belt to analog sensor to a digital readout would be a nice feature. The plastic on this tool also kills me! The price vs. the plastic feel, it just seems out of place. IMHO, Festool has it's fan base who like to pay top dollar. As others have or may mention, similar results can be accomplished for far less without the Festool name. I cut sheet goods down all the time with a very cheap track saw brand. I've owned Festool track saw as well and sold it after six months of use realizing that it just wasn't worth the costs. The cool thing though? I lost maybe $50.00 in the deal on the resale. THEY HOLD VALUE for sure!
While it might be a little bit easier to change your blade in this new model, it’s pretty clear you never changed a blade on the Mafell tracksaw.. just try it.
I sold my TS 55 and got a MT55 two years ago, fantastic saw-agreed, it's much easier to change the blade, better dust collection, more power and better built. I also run an Erika 85 and the P1 jigsaw IMHO better than the Festool equivalents. Saying that, I have a Festool domino 500 which I would rate over the duodoweler-much more useful with the knock down fittings. I also have the ETS 150 sander and OF1400 router, Makita mitre saw etc. I believe in picking and choosing based on the specific tool as opposed to blindly following & buying the one brand.
Hi Brent, two part question. 1) if the kick-back is accuated does it damn the blade such that it would need to be replaced? 2) Is the TS60 backward compatible with the "normal" tracks, such as with the TS55? Specific example i have one of the longer tracks for full lenght plywood, would i have to invest in new tracks to cut full-length plywood pieces? Thanks in advance!
I hate that you glossed over attaching the outside splinter guard because yours seems to have the same issue mine does. The provided “rotary knob” doesn’t engage with the hole provided at all. It literally just falls out and will not hold the splinter guard on.
Question for Jason: do you have your boxes CNC'd or do you use a table saw? I've seen a couple other cabinet makers on TH-cam mention they CNC the boxes and primarily spend time on their faces. So I'm curious what you do and why?
@@bentswoodworking gotcha yeah it seems like one of those things you'd but once the jobs were outpacing your ability to keep up. But you'd probably have some help by then anyways
I have a question - which answers itself - why not buy a European one (with plugit) and increase the voltage, especially for the machines, in the extra network? A carpenter from Germany
For starters, I don't think that saw will be covered under warranty. The motors might be the same, but if not, I don't think it's worth the chance of being wrong.
I just found your channel and I’m enjoying your content. One tip for production though. Add a bit more room sound to your audio. It’s too dead and it doesn’t match the shot. You sound like you’re on a sports podcast. Adding a bit of room helps immerse the audience into the scene and out of reality.
Have you had issues changing blade types (crosscut factory blade with say the Panther for ripping)? I just did a swap and use and the Panther altered my cut strip just enough. I haven’t swapped back yet in case I still need to use the panther but if I need to change the cut strip every blade change- that could be annoying/expensive
@@dwgar1322 it will only come corded here. The pictures that you are seeing with the plug it cord are pictures from Europe, where it does have a plug it cord. You will see the plug is green. It will only be corded here. It’s not an option
It does NOT exceed the 'pluggable power' limit- just exceeds Festool's chosen (proprietary) plug. I use my own choice of connector, with a larger current capacity- in a smaller form factor. Brushless motors are considerably more efficient than universal (brushed) motors- it should take less current, not more. They still do not have a locking dust connector (like DeWalt's AirLock). Good to see they are still left handed saws...
The flimsy mains connector is able to handle the amperage but the proprietary festool one can't? Can't they design a beefier compatible one? So disappointing. The saw seams to be perfect every other way.
@@jasonandersen5975 I like the TS60K for $40, personally. LOL. I bought one for my office just because....well.....guys buy miniature things that represent our hobbies and put them in our office. I don't know why......its just in the man book.
Pass. I'll wait until they come out with a cordless version (if then). The TSC55 is powerful enough, and certainly they could have matched that with a TS60 that is slightly less powerful to maintain the plug it. I also admit the Milwaukee is getting more and more attractive the more I think about it.
Festool has known for three decades that their motors in these saws was underpowered. People have commented on it and send them e-mails out of the wazoo. With the flood of competitors in the market now days they are coming around. I think I will stick with one of the competitors whose says are better and cheaper.
Honestly, it’s hard to trust your reviews when you have what looks like $30k of festool products on display and I’m guessing you didn’t pay retail price. And I don’t mean that do be a d&ck.
You need a better expiation of why this saw does not have a Plug-It connector. Now I'm am concerned about Festool Plug-It System not transferring enough power for their new equipment.
I am not impressed with this saw, and the depth adjustment was a real disappointment, for example. They did not get rid of having two sets of scales so that they could include both metric and imperial as I will explain in a moment. They changed the design so it was no longer needlessly busy to read. After all, why look at the same scale on both sides at once when you can clean it up and just use one side? Unfortunately, the hybrid design introduces the potential for parallax error now that the imperial scale is not right against the indicator (requiring the use of a tool to attempt to align the scale to the indicator). What they could have done was a hybrid approach where they had a design similar to the older style with two marks on each scale to allow parallax-free positioning on a two-point system (four points in all) to account for being on and off the track. These kinds of "improvements" really have me second guessing Festool these days (which already deserves some criticism for the cost of many "system" accessories once committed to one or more of their power tools). Moreover, if laying the saw flat is the best feature of the saw, then I think the saw is overvalued. To me Festool is just looking for a way to charge more because the TS60 is actually more expensive than the TSC55, so the price of a TSC60 would be even more so when it almost inevitably comes out. Festool already jacked up their pricing during COVID, and they just found a way to do it again. Instead of a TS60 (or TSC60 in the future), I think Festool should have just released an HK60 and/or an HKC60. After all, from what Sedge said, it looks like the benefit of going to the larger blade was to cut joists and other 2x material (a carpenter's task, and not necessarily a woodworker's). The HK and HKC models are track saws and not plunge saws for a reason (even though they can be used to plunge similar to a traditional circular saws when the need arises). As for the rest of the "improvements", I think they should have just introduced them across the board in all their track saws to try to get ahead of Mafell (after all, Festool invented the track saw and the most stringent testing I have seen favors this saw over the Festool. Rob Robillard, who performed a head-to-head test of the various track saws a few years ago, recently tested the milwaukee and believes it is more powerful than the TSC55 (others have expressed this as well), and it does it with one M18 battery). Nonetheless, he still thinks if anyone wants the absolute best track saw to go with the Mafell. Again, this is all the more reason why Festool should just be making these improvements (when they actually are improvements) across the board instead of leveraging them to charge more-again. We also have to remember Jason (no offense) and Sedge work for Festool; as such, they are essentially salesmen for Festool whether they're making a Festool video or discussing Festool on their private TH-cam channels. Even if they consciously believe in what they're saying about this saw, it's still unconsciously in their best interest to tout the TS60 as the greatest thing since the TSC55. Heck, not only is the Milwaukee cordless, not only is it more powerful than the TS55 or TSC55, it does works to its full potential only using one battery. Moreover, it also has an even thinner blade (1.6mm vs 1.8mm). Furthermore, if you look at the Home Depot images for the Milwaukee track saw, you will also see that they claim the Milwaukee saw has even better dust collection than what Festool claims (edging out Festool's 90-95% dust collection claims). Lastly, I am not sold on the electronic anti-kickback for a few reasons. First, like Makita, the Festool TSC55 and TS60 do not have a riving knife. I don't know about anyone else, but to me, it makes more sense to avoid the kickback to begin with (rather than deal with it electronically once it occurs). The electronic anti-kickback (lacking a riving knife) actually makes the saw more likely to kickback; it only has a system to arrest the kickback. Festool notes in the manual their new system is not 100% effective. At least with a riving knife you can almost guarantee you won't have a kickback from the start. And I'm leaning towards the Milwaukee because its riving knife has a special spring design which allows the riving knife to enter plunge cuts with the blade. Correct me if I'm wrong, but when performing a plunge cut with Festool's electronic anti-kickback feature, the "feeler" is not in contact with the track until AFTER the saw blade makes contact with the board (which is one of the situations where a kickback might occur as Sedge always points out). As such, this potentially makes the Festool's electronic system more dangerous than Milwaukee's riving knife. Don't get me wrong, the likeliness of a kickback, at least in sheet goods, is not likely (hence Makita still including no anti-kickback feature other than locking down the saw on their rail. Milwaukee has the same feature if one feels inclined to use it. Best of all, the Milwaukee is about $200 cheaper than the Festool equivalents buying the saw, and then you save even more money because they charge less for virtually all their accessories. Anyway, I think Festool needs to rethink things before they start losing market share which I expect is already happening with track saws. The Milwaukee, like the TSC55, is powerful enough and cuts deep enough save for the occasional woodworking need. In that case, a TS75 is even better than the TS60. And don't even get me started with the new brushless CXS drill/drivers which will now have too much power in my opinion and require hearing protection on jobsites. I read somewhere that brushed motors still have their advantages, and the CXS vs the new CXS 12 & CXS 18 may bare this out.
Thanks for taking the time to share your opinions. Just to clarify one point you made, I do not work at Festool. I run my own business. I simply did an internship with Festool as part of my retirement from the Army
Ew gross, what's the black thing attached to it supplying power to it! Cordless for life! And when are they going to release the tablesaw, sawzall, and systainer inverter. Release the tools to America!
As someone who doesn't have a jointer, my track saw is my go to for edge joints. I run the blade down the edge of two pieces at once, guaranteeing they are parallel. Its especially great for running extra long edges 12+ feet, for long tables.
I bought this saw with the both rails and yes this saw is amazing. I don’t particularly need a miter saw in the work I do but on rare occasions. Being able to use this on the fsk rails is perfect. Also the quality is great, and dead accurate. It’s quite expensive almost double what I paid for my Makita. I’d buy it again though.
You're definitely correct about the cord needing to be fixed. The difference is that Europe runs on double the voltage, so they use only half the amps which is where we run into the issue.
I would argue that this does replace the TS 55 FEQ, but not the TSC 55 KEB. The cordless track saw is invaluable. When I go to get sheet goods that are a store that doesn't have a panel saw (I've got a Corolla), there's no better solution than having a cordless track saw.
Another fantastic review!
@@michaels3003 I think any intelligent should consult an electrician. The point still stands that there’s less current flowing through the wires in Europe than here.
@@AaronGeller, yes. Much less copper is needed (thinner wires) and much lower AC current with the higher 220 V voltage.
@@michaels3003 Correct. So do you agree the most probable reason it’s a fixed cord is because we run on a lower voltage than Europe, the higher current exceeds the regulated limit?
@@AaronGeller , this requires specific knowledge of the electrical connector that the company would have used and it's cost. Companies generally do not explain this or they use PR type statements. They must have assumed that the attached cord will not have much impact on sales. They will save money on the support (no cord connection issues).
Yeah, they need to make a battery powered version of this and I will buy
Good to hear your view on metric, started my apprenticeship in 1973 and it’s all I’ve ever used here in Scotland. Find imperial measurement such a pain in the ass and takes a lot more time to mark out and set jobs!
I bought one. Nice little upgrade from my 15-year-old TS55 saw. I don't miss the plug-it cord.
Fantastically.
I only got mine at Christmas and can't believe how good it is compared to what I was using before, it's worth the extra cost by a long way.
Worth mentioning: in other regions the TS 60 does have a plug it cord.
I don’t need to replace my ts 55 but if I did then I would shop for one out of country. The no plug it cord is a bit of a deal breaker. Just more stupid US consumer protection BS to deal with.
Yeah mine does I live in Australia
Is it the 220v version that has plug-it?
@@vbaspcppguyYes.
Yep Northern Europe 230v gang here. Has plug-it cord like all other festool tools.
I prefer the Mafell rail it is just so easy to link multiples
Very informative video, the saw has many new additions that take it to next level!! Thanks for sharing Jason.
You bet
This made me feel good about my HK55 😊
I don't own a track saw yet, but I would like to buy one eventually. I would mainly be using it to break down plywood. I have been using a Skil circular saw from the 90's.
Awesome review. Thanks! Congrats on 200k!
Thanks brother! Nice catching up in Vegas 👊🏼
I love that it's a corded saw!
Another one, who love german woodworker machines :D great video, thanks from germany
Glad you like them!
Absolutely love my TS60K. I bought mine in Sweden where I live and the cord is detachable (plug it cord)😁
Because you have 230V and not it's poor cousin in the USA
Very nice!
i prefer the mafell MT55 though it's more expensive than festool's equivalent. this TS 60 does look pretty sweet.
Where do the batteries go and what is the black wire hanging off the back of the saw? Jk I know it is corded. I am just waiting for the cordless version to release. Cant be too far off considering they have the 8 ah high power batteries in Europe now.
I use the 10m hose/cord with the sleeve in my shop. The dust extractor stays parked and I can take the hose from the sheet good cutting table to the sanding table and anywhere in between for routing, dominoing, etc.. Having to deal with a hardwired tracksaw would be a step in the wrong direction for me.
Thanks Bent. Great review.
Glad you liked it!
I have a small shop so I do all my large board work with my TS 75. Works fantastic. Great review. I wish I had the cash to buy a TS 60. I like the fact that it works with the FSK tracks. I also think track saws are the safest way to create a straight edge to run along a table saw fence.
A cliff hanger!!! Nicely played TH-camr.
🤣
LOL> Definitely coming back next week. Great info on this saw.
Please do!
Having no plug-it cord on this is entirely a non issue for me. I did plug it conversions on 6 different tools...then put all the original cords back on 3 months later. I hated constantly switching the plug- it to different tools. Instead I just installed a multi outlet strip on the side of my custom plywood CT platform. I leave 2-4 tools plugged in and then only need to swap hose
You'd better not like it better than the TS75! 😄I just bought that one on your recommendation.
Well that just comes down to a capacity need.
about time they put a bigger motor in one, its the only drawback i find with the old one.
Not sure on the power cord thing - That saw is listed at 1500watts, but the TS75 is 1600 watts and that has a removable cord. The higher wattage tools have a different socket without the peak in the connecter. That means the higher wattage cords (bigger wire in the cord) can power any machine, but the lower wattage cords can't be used on the higher watt appliances.
I am not sure where you got your info and even if you got it from Festool if they were telling the whole story.
great review...the depth adjustment in metirc is a deal breaker for me...I have and always will use inches and if the saw is sold in the US why not make it for inches??
Thanks for the overview Jason. I'm content with my TS 55 FEQ. No removable cord and no riving knife kind of turn me off of this one. I'm sure it's great to use, but for me it's not a big enough leap over my current saw.
Looks like a great saw but I'm waiting for the TSV 60 K!
I have redacted my earlier comment about it being made in China. I called Highland Woodworking in Atlanta and they assured me that it is made in Germany. I had been earlier misinformed. Yes I own Festool tools. A dust extractor and two sanders and soon a new track saw.
Well, guess there will be another saw added to the lineup... Going from blue to green pretty rapidly here.
Nice!!
Great Summary as always - Thanks! Curious why there is an option to disable kick-back and when would you need to disable. I had seen the saw in Woodcraft and wondered why it was hard wired, thinking a disconnect might be a future version - thanks for explaining!
I’m sure there are specific scenarios that disabling the kickback stop makes sense. I have never needed to
Thanks Jason! I downloaded the owner's manual, it indicated "Only deactivate the KickbackStop function if you are working without a rail and your workpiece is so uneven that the KickbackÂStop function would unintentionally be trigÂgered several times." Very intresting workaround!
Hi @bentswoodworking. Can you confirm for a TS60K, that the adjustment screws for this procedure are the single screws on both sides of the top of the saw which are holding down the metal blocks (below the angle adjustment knobs)? Neither the screws or metal piece are specifically called out in functional description section of the TS60K operation manual, but are visible on the diagram.
Or if you could make a video which discusses the calibration process for the TS60K?
One thing I've been curious about since I got my TS55 is why would I ever turn the saws speed down?
Cutting different materials
Thanks Jason. A couple questions - Can you calibrate this guy to the existing tracks (mainly other saws). Would you get this guy or wait for the one with the scoring blade if you had to pick one.
I myself hadn’t had issues swapping saws and tracks but all mine have the thin kerf blade. As for the TSV 60 it’s hard to say. You would be dealing with more weight when using the saw. But, you would have the scoring feature
I have one ordered. This is my first festool purchase I don't think my wallet is ready for what is about to happen to it.
We in the UK get the plug-it, but I'd hold off unless/until the cordless version is released, surely an option with the new 8.0Ahr batteries? For me, the big plus is the ability to use it with the FSK carpentry rails. I'd still like a scoring cut quick setting, but to be honest it's so quick to simply set the 3mm (8mm) depth then set it back to full depth...still...
What Festool dust extractor do you recommend for this saw, and maybe a sander? I have whole-shop central dust collection so not looking to boil the ocean and Festool has too many choices in extractors. Bluetooth looks really nice but not sure it's needed.
I’d like to purchase the hardwired track saw, but everywhere I’ve found the saw they only offer it with a plug it cord. Where did you make your purchase?
In the US, it should only be offered with a plug it cord.
Jason, I have the ts 75 and assortment of rails for the saw. Is there anyway I can convert to the ts 60 and keep my rails? I see an issue with the kerf and getting the plastic strips to line up
You can just replace the plastic strip. They sell it in roles
@@bentswoodworking brilliant, thank you … ts 75 going on the market today.
Great video thanks for sharing as usual
No problem 👍
nice saw.. but Im not going change out my TSC 55 KEBI for a TS 60. Id rather have a tsc 75
Is it a different sized blade, or that the slimmer motor allows a deeper plunge? Great video. 👍🏻
Larger blade
Does it come square from factory?
Yes
Huh. As a DIY'er, I don't need that level of premium-ness. But boy did they think of the smallest details.
The european model has plug-in-cords! It's all beacuse of the usual US-Current of 110 Volts. Tha cable and plugs have to suffer the double amount of Ampères. So they got to have double dimensions (diametre of cable). The plug should be bigger as well. So festool went the easy way. No big problem, as you said. The compact motorhousing has one more advantage: The motor never gets in collisions with any mountings left from the rail (clamps, and things)!!
does the ts60 also have a "depth limiting button " like the tsv60? if it does i'm getting one tomorrow ... if not .. thats a deal breaker .. common sense says it needs it more since it doesnt have a scoring blade right?
Sounds silly, but I'd really like to see digital readouts for angle, depth, and even RPM, perhaps a few other features. We are getting to brushless in our tools, yet we keep leaving out other modern tech. Maybe, laser measures and digital just isn't accurate enough? Even if that was the case, an analog gear set, belt to analog sensor to a digital readout would be a nice feature. The plastic on this tool also kills me! The price vs. the plastic feel, it just seems out of place. IMHO, Festool has it's fan base who like to pay top dollar. As others have or may mention, similar results can be accomplished for far less without the Festool name. I cut sheet goods down all the time with a very cheap track saw brand. I've owned Festool track saw as well and sold it after six months of use realizing that it just wasn't worth the costs. The cool thing though? I lost maybe $50.00 in the deal on the resale. THEY HOLD VALUE for sure!
While it might be a little bit easier to change your blade in this new model, it’s pretty clear you never changed a blade on the Mafell tracksaw.. just try it.
I sold my TS 55 and got a MT55 two years ago, fantastic saw-agreed, it's much easier to change the blade, better dust collection, more power and better built. I also run an Erika 85 and the P1 jigsaw IMHO better than the Festool equivalents. Saying that, I have a Festool domino 500 which I would rate over the duodoweler-much more useful with the knock down fittings. I also have the ETS 150 sander and OF1400 router, Makita mitre saw etc. I believe in picking and choosing based on the specific tool as opposed to blindly following & buying the one brand.
@@S7tronicnice
Hi Brent, two part question.
1) if the kick-back is accuated does it damn the blade such that it would need to be replaced?
2) Is the TS60 backward compatible with the "normal" tracks, such as with the TS55? Specific example i have one of the longer tracks for full lenght plywood, would i have to invest in new tracks to cut full-length plywood pieces?
Thanks in advance!
I really don't think festool would make a new standard, looking at the track Brent is using, I would say it's the same track as usual.
1- no it doesn’t cause any damage
2- all festool track saws work on the festool track
The new dust port is available for all of Festool's saws, so it's not really a selling point.
Where do we look to find it? I've had no luck so far. I'd like to get one for my TS 55 FEQ.
Hi Jason, do you know if the new dust port design is compatible with the 55?
Yes
I hate that you glossed over attaching the outside splinter guard because yours seems to have the same issue mine does. The provided “rotary knob” doesn’t engage with the hole provided at all. It literally just falls out and will not hold the splinter guard on.
Is the TS 60 KEBQ the same as TS 60 KEB? the one that you are showing?
Question for Jason: do you have your boxes CNC'd or do you use a table saw? I've seen a couple other cabinet makers on TH-cam mention they CNC the boxes and primarily spend time on their faces. So I'm curious what you do and why?
Drawer boxes?
@@bentswoodworking no I mean like the cabinet boxes
@@MaxRunia I cut them myself. If I was running a production cabinet shop then a CNC would be valuable
@@bentswoodworking gotcha yeah it seems like one of those things you'd but once the jobs were outpacing your ability to keep up. But you'd probably have some help by then anyways
my main requirement is how it deal with melamine faced chipboard. can you do a test please?
The fix for the cord""""" Cut it short and hard wire a twist lock male plug and use a retractable cord reel with a female twist lock receptacle.
Have you ever used mafell
I have a question - which answers itself - why not buy a European one (with plugit) and increase the voltage, especially for the machines, in the extra network? A carpenter from Germany
For starters, I don't think that saw will be covered under warranty. The motors might be the same, but if not, I don't think it's worth the chance of being wrong.
I would like an anti-tip feature.
I just found your channel and I’m enjoying your content. One tip for production though. Add a bit more room sound to your audio. It’s too dead and it doesn’t match the shot. You sound like you’re on a sports podcast. Adding a bit of room helps immerse the audience into the scene and out of reality.
The milwaukee blade is even thinner (1.6 vs 1.8mm).
Have you had issues changing blade types (crosscut factory blade with say the Panther for ripping)? I just did a swap and use and the Panther altered my cut strip just enough. I haven’t swapped back yet in case I still need to use the panther but if I need to change the cut strip every blade change- that could be annoying/expensive
I have never experienced an issue like that
Got the Milwaukee and very happy, ill pass on this one , same old features for more money 😂
European version has removal power cord 😎
well im glad you are heavily invested in Festool...
Plunge Cut Track Saw TS 60 KEB-F-Plus
Item number 576726, is this the track saw you have? Again I’m unable to find a ts 60 keb that’s hardwired.
Do you live in the US?
Yes, California.
@@dwgar1322 it will only come corded here. The pictures that you are seeing with the plug it cord are pictures from Europe, where it does have a plug it cord. You will see the plug is green. It will only be corded here. It’s not an option
Did you purchase yours from festool usa?
@@dwgar1322 it was sent to me by festool USA
It does NOT exceed the 'pluggable power' limit- just exceeds Festool's chosen (proprietary) plug. I use my own choice of connector, with a larger current capacity- in a smaller form factor.
Brushless motors are considerably more efficient than universal (brushed) motors- it should take less current, not more.
They still do not have a locking dust connector (like DeWalt's AirLock).
Good to see they are still left handed saws...
Why would a person want to turn off the anti-kickback functionality?
There are probably special applications that it would make sense.
The flimsy mains connector is able to handle the amperage but the proprietary festool one can't? Can't they design a beefier compatible one? So disappointing. The saw seams to be perfect every other way.
Festool doesn’t work on a bosch track right
You are correct. Festool, Makita, Milwaukee and power tech use similar tracks.
@@shamilton5000 where Mafell uses all tracks primarily
FALSE INFORMATION!!!!! The best Festool track saw is the TS 60K. Stop telling people LIES Jason! You can't cut a pizza with this one.
🤣
No, you just have to purchase the Festool PSπ pizza slice attachment for $400
@@jasonandersen5975 I like the TS60K for $40, personally. LOL. I bought one for my office just because....well.....guys buy miniature things that represent our hobbies and put them in our office. I don't know why......its just in the man book.
You could cut pizza with this, why not. Maybe you shouldn’t though
Pass. I'll wait until they come out with a cordless version (if then). The TSC55 is powerful enough, and certainly they could have matched that with a TS60 that is slightly less powerful to maintain the plug it. I also admit the Milwaukee is getting more and more attractive the more I think about it.
Festool has known for three decades that their motors in these saws was underpowered. People have commented on it and send them e-mails out of the wazoo. With the flood of competitors in the market now days they are coming around. I think I will stick with one of the competitors whose says are better and cheaper.
Honestly, it’s hard to trust your reviews when you have what looks like $30k of festool products on display and I’m guessing you didn’t pay retail price. And I don’t mean that do be a d&ck.
You need a better expiation of why this saw does not have a Plug-It connector. Now I'm am concerned about Festool Plug-It System not transferring enough power for their new equipment.
I am not impressed with this saw, and the depth adjustment was a real disappointment, for example. They did not get rid of having two sets of scales so that they could include both metric and imperial as I will explain in a moment. They changed the design so it was no longer needlessly busy to read. After all, why look at the same scale on both sides at once when you can clean it up and just use one side? Unfortunately, the hybrid design introduces the potential for parallax error now that the imperial scale is not right against the indicator (requiring the use of a tool to attempt to align the scale to the indicator). What they could have done was a hybrid approach where they had a design similar to the older style with two marks on each scale to allow parallax-free positioning on a two-point system (four points in all) to account for being on and off the track.
These kinds of "improvements" really have me second guessing Festool these days (which already deserves some criticism for the cost of many "system" accessories once committed to one or more of their power tools).
Moreover, if laying the saw flat is the best feature of the saw, then I think the saw is overvalued.
To me Festool is just looking for a way to charge more because the TS60 is actually more expensive than the TSC55, so the price of a TSC60 would be even more so when it almost inevitably comes out. Festool already jacked up their pricing during COVID, and they just found a way to do it again.
Instead of a TS60 (or TSC60 in the future), I think Festool should have just released an HK60 and/or an HKC60. After all, from what Sedge said, it looks like the benefit of going to the larger blade was to cut joists and other 2x material (a carpenter's task, and not necessarily a woodworker's). The HK and HKC models are track saws and not plunge saws for a reason (even though they can be used to plunge similar to a traditional circular saws when the need arises).
As for the rest of the "improvements", I think they should have just introduced them across the board in all their track saws to try to get ahead of Mafell (after all, Festool invented the track saw and the most stringent testing I have seen favors this saw over the Festool. Rob Robillard, who performed a head-to-head test of the various track saws a few years ago, recently tested the milwaukee and believes it is more powerful than the TSC55 (others have expressed this as well), and it does it with one M18 battery). Nonetheless, he still thinks if anyone wants the absolute best track saw to go with the Mafell. Again, this is all the more reason why Festool should just be making these improvements (when they actually are improvements) across the board instead of leveraging them to charge more-again.
We also have to remember Jason (no offense) and Sedge work for Festool; as such, they are essentially salesmen for Festool whether they're making a Festool video or discussing Festool on their private TH-cam channels. Even if they consciously believe in what they're saying about this saw, it's still unconsciously in their best interest to tout the TS60 as the greatest thing since the TSC55. Heck, not only is the Milwaukee cordless, not only is it more powerful than the TS55 or TSC55, it does works to its full potential only using one battery. Moreover, it also has an even thinner blade (1.6mm vs 1.8mm).
Furthermore, if you look at the Home Depot images for the Milwaukee track saw, you will also see that they claim the Milwaukee saw has even better dust collection than what Festool claims (edging out Festool's 90-95% dust collection claims).
Lastly, I am not sold on the electronic anti-kickback for a few reasons. First, like Makita, the Festool TSC55 and TS60 do not have a riving knife. I don't know about anyone else, but to me, it makes more sense to avoid the kickback to begin with (rather than deal with it electronically once it occurs). The electronic anti-kickback (lacking a riving knife) actually makes the saw more likely to kickback; it only has a system to arrest the kickback.
Festool notes in the manual their new system is not 100% effective. At least with a riving knife you can almost guarantee you won't have a kickback from the start. And I'm leaning towards the Milwaukee because its riving knife has a special spring design which allows the riving knife to enter plunge cuts with the blade. Correct me if I'm wrong, but when performing a plunge cut with Festool's electronic anti-kickback feature, the "feeler" is not in contact with the track until AFTER the saw blade makes contact with the board (which is one of the situations where a kickback might occur as Sedge always points out). As such, this potentially makes the Festool's electronic system more dangerous than Milwaukee's riving knife. Don't get me wrong, the likeliness of a kickback, at least in sheet goods, is not likely (hence Makita still including no anti-kickback feature other than locking down the saw on their rail. Milwaukee has the same feature if one feels inclined to use it.
Best of all, the Milwaukee is about $200 cheaper than the Festool equivalents buying the saw, and then you save even more money because they charge less for virtually all their accessories.
Anyway, I think Festool needs to rethink things before they start losing market share which I expect is already happening with track saws. The Milwaukee, like the TSC55, is powerful enough and cuts deep enough save for the occasional woodworking need. In that case, a TS75 is even better than the TS60.
And don't even get me started with the new brushless CXS drill/drivers which will now have too much power in my opinion and require hearing protection on jobsites. I read somewhere that brushed motors still have their advantages, and the CXS vs the new CXS 12 & CXS 18 may bare this out.
Thanks for taking the time to share your opinions. Just to clarify one point you made, I do not work at Festool. I run my own business. I simply did an internship with Festool as part of my retirement from the Army
Ts 60 defeated the mafel saw recently in Germany shootout
Ew gross, what's the black thing attached to it supplying power to it! Cordless for life! And when are they going to release the tablesaw, sawzall, and systainer inverter. Release the tools to America!
Still not a mafell.