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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ย. 2024
- This video gives you the tips and tricks you need to maximize your tracks for your tracksaw.
I hope this helps !!!
Be Positive & Stay Sharp ....WICKED Sharp !!!
#woodworking #festool #tracksaw
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SedgeTool is all about woodworking and having a great time doing it. SedgeTool is Brian “Sedge” Sedgeley who brings 30 years of woodworking experience and tons of energy to the team. Chris "THE UNIT" Seibert who films it all! If you want to have a good time and learn something about woodworking, then you’ve come to the right place.
All views and opinions expressed during SedgeTool are explicitly those of SedgeTool. They are not intended to represent any claims, value statements, or opinions of any of the tools, brands, subsidiaries, or parent companies of brands referenced, visible, or mentioned on the show. The SedgeTool team is here for entertainment and educational purposes only. SedgeTool is not a replacement for proper training or safety guidelines as outlined by the manufacturer's owner’s manuals.
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You guys literally made the PERFECT video explaining all this, this was exactly what I needed to see. I'm a general contractor and I just bought my first ever track saw yesterday, a Festool TS 60 and I bought two of the 55 inch long FS tracks as well. I was needing to cut the splinter guards on both and learn to align the guide rails with the connectors straight and true. I was somewhat worried about getting this perfect, and then I accidentally found your channel and this video. I just watched your other video showing aligning the track saw blade using the business card trick, genius! THANK YOU SO MUCH YOU GUYS!!!! You just got yourself a new subscriber!
Wow Thanks !!!
Great video. Owned a track saw for five years and learned more in these 15 minutes.
Wicked cool !!!
Very smart tip when aligning the 2 rails with the help of the saw base 👌
Glad it was helpful!
Nice to learn more about tools that I have used for over 15 years, thanks.
Glad to help
Some great tips here. The rail connectors advice in particular is priceless and will save me a lot of fiddling about trying to get the rails to align. One more thing- very entertaining presentation. Thanks from across the pond.
Thanks,,,
I’ve watched a lot of tracks saw videos, and you explain things better and included information that I’ve not seen in any of the others
Thank you
I like the black makita splinter guard
ok
Great video. Thanks!
You bet!
Thanks a lot for your tips. From now on I promise to use the rail connectors the right way.
Glad I could help
Great information for a beginner using my new track saw out of the box! You have made a subscriber!
Awesome, thank you!
Love the Super Glue trick. On my LR32 rail, I removed the zero clearance edge as I don't use it for an extension for cutting length wise sheets of plywood. I then created and added an end point to the rail, and with two plunge stops, I lock my palm router onto the rail. This makes a great trammel for marking or cutting arch's and circles.
That's a great idea!
I really like your show great tips. I just brought a festool carvex jig saw I have learned so much from you.only brought jigsaw other day.
Wicked cool !!!!
Thank You Sedge and Big D for this Great Tips . I have a Bosch rail and Tracksaw . The Splinter guard cut is for me New .
Thumb up and Greetings from Wonderful Country Austria .
Glad to help
Perfect 👍🏽
Thank you
You're welcome!
AMAZING ADVICE...THANKS!
Glad it was helpful!
Learned a new thing, thanks! 🙏🏼
Happy to help!
You guys rock!
Rock on !!!
I used both the (current) Festool and TSO guide rail connectors recently for a
combined ~19’ track and found the TSO version easier to use, better designed, and it didn’t leave a dent in the slot. Maybe it’s just my set but the screws in the Festool hardware are tough to turn since they’re expanding the connector to achieve the lock. With minimal torque, they’re still loose, so additional torque is applied-resulting in the denting. The TSO version had no issues.
cool
I’ll have to try the cams on the saw to line up the tracks. I’ve always used a chalk line and my calipers to check my track is straight to the string after connecting two lengths. Always takes at least 3 try’s to get all the set screws tight and have the tracks still be straight. It’s so frustrating I keep really wanting to buy the long track. I just can’t bring myself to spend the money. I keep saying next job will pay for it. Then I spend the money on something else.
The cams set up should work fine .... Thanks for watching
Sedge my friend, like myself you don't sit still... you're churning these videos out at a great clip: thank you!
We have been using the track saw an enormous amount. It's an incredible tool. Thank you big D for your points and imagine this... I didn't even realize the splinter guard was replaceable... until your video; there's never a mention of it in any of the Makita manuals. I am sure Festool does the skilled user a more complete educational experience.
Regarding the above discussion, do you think that the parts are all compatible with Makita(splinter guards & new connectors), or recommend where to order the splinter guards or new style connectors?
Also, I love how you use that TSO square. Is that connector clip part of the TSO package? I have the TSO parallel guide with the Rhombus-style handle.
The TSO adaptor did not come with the larger Triangle .....I do not know the compatibility to Makita..sorry ..
@sedgetool Sorry not needed. Is there a specific name for the adapter? Then I can order. Thank you- btw, I am also getting into the new dogs!
It doesn't happen often that a competitor beats Festool at their own game, but the TSO rail connectors are hands down best in class. The new gen Festool ones are quite good, but not as easy!
OK
There are so many little things about these tools I never learned until you. For example, I had been spending years finding ways to deal with the little stops in the Domino without realizing I could tighten them in place.
Here's something I realized on my own a couple weeks ago I wish I learned sooner - changing the Splinter Guard is easy. 5000m is a LOT of splinter guard, just do it.
Also, everybody should get a handy-dandy aluminum straight-edge. In fact, I recommend getting several as you can budget it, from 6", 12", 24", 36", 50" (or metric equivalents). Like clamps, you need bigger sizes for bigger jobs, but use as small of a size as possible for ergonomics.
Also get duplicates. You shouldn't usually use all of these, but I firmly believe it's important to be able to test any edge against multiple other reference edges. Aluminum deforms (particularly at the ends that get dropped) and it's not always obvious.
(Testing three straight edges is like what we would call "Channel Coding" in computer science. You're looking for at least 2 edges that agree.)
Thanks....and ... Thanks for your advice !!!!!
Professor Sedge. On the Track Saw to slide, will “Jojobo Oil” on a slide work as well as the spray? I use on all my hand-tools be putting away. Great lesson, thank you. Blake
I would stay away from the oil Blake... may transfer to wood somehow and react with finishes...
Thank you for the tips but to cut a new splinter guard all way through you just have to set the maximum depth on the tracksaw (with the two green cams on the rail as you show).
Hey Sedge
I follow you from Italy. You are an impressive well of knowledge and experience. Even for a simple operation like changing the track's splinter guard or joining multiple tracks, I learned secrets and tricks that I didn't even imagine.
Note: regarding the pre-cut of the splinter guard, the European manual says to use the saw at maximum speed but with the blade completely lowered (max cutting height)
Ok ... Thanks
Hi Sedge, is that attachment available to purchase for the mtr18 to connect to your guide rail?
yes. .. right here ...tsoproducts.com/precision-triangles-squares/triangle-to-guide-rail-adapter/?ref=cwmk4ofe
Is there a difference between the colours of the replacement splinter guards or is just “ I like this colour “?
no difference
Noticed you are using the multifunction table but not the Festool angle guides you’ve shown in other videos - do you have any latest findings on getting the best 90 degree cuts with track saw? Are you getting better results with TSO adaptor and giant square? (I’ve had trouble getting Festool angle stop at perfect 90 without multifunction table, is why I ask)
I just like the simplicity of the larger square
Quick question, new Festool user here just got a TS 75, I have two brand new tracks that i need to join, how do i go about cutting the splinter guard when i plan to join both and keep the witness like you did?
LOL, found my answer in the last 5secs of the video...looks like I will just cut it off! Unless, otherwise noted. Thanks for all the hard work!
😀
Thanks a lot for the tip!!!!!!!!👏👏👏👏👏
Happy to help!
Even if you don't have Festool saw or Festool rails, you should use the Festool splinter guard. Other brands leave adhesive residue and you have to spend an hour with a plastic scraper and mineral spirits to get it off.
Was thinking if that new connector bar will fit in the makita rails as well
cool....good tip !!!
This is a great discussion because I wondered too
if Makita rail is all compatible with the splinter guards & connectors
@@JonDunnmusicianI’ve used the makita splinter guard on my festool tracks without issue. And the rails are the same profile so they’re cross compatible with accessories
@@NPrints guessing in theory should fit. When I get paid will grab one and will see.
“Ok Big D, I’m gonna have you pull this off, but give me a second…😂
😀
Help! I am about to start doing more woodworking projects. I have a DeWalt DW744, 1/2” Milwaukee router, hitachi mitre saw. I only have a 2 car garage that must have cars parked inside. All tools put away when not in use.
Is going all-in with track saw and MFT going to replace the former tools? Should I keep them? I like the LR32 system. I am leaning towards the Milwaukee M18 track saw but noticed they don’t have the LR32 track. Does this mean I need a Festool router and LR32 kit? Seams to me the lower cost of the M18 kit vs Festool is worth whatever small differences exist that won’t matter to a weekend warrior.
Please genuinely confused
you still need a miter saw and the LR32 rail is available separately also only uses the OF1010 or OF1400......
@@sedgetoolthank you so much. I figure I can set up my current router for round overs 😂 I bought it to mortise this fancy concealed hinges on shed doors built. Turned out better than I thought. Keep on keeping on!
@@sedgetool I almost forgot. I got my Segley pouch and love it and two t-shirts! My Blackwing pencils are on the way (a few will go with my son to Colorado School of Mines). My woodpecker squares and marking gauge on the way!
What is the square and bracket holding the square?
tsoproducts.com/precision-triangles-squares/ptr-18-plus-precision-triangle/?ref=cwmk4ofe
tsoproducts.com/precision-triangles-squares/triangle-to-guide-rail-adapter/?ref=cwmk4ofe
Can the same splinter guard for both the 2.2m blades and the 1.8mm blades?
i have a rail for both 1.8 on my TS60 and one for my TS55 2.2
How can we perform a scoring pass by pulling the saw backwards? The riving blade doesn’t seem to allow that
???????????????????????????????? .....
Can I get the shoe based off the ts60 and put it on the TSC 55
I do not think so.....
How do you decide when a cut needs material below it to support?
GREAT question... my rule of thumb is I support it if the piece I call the off cut is going to be saved and I don't want it to drop to the floor ...I hope this makes sense ....
@@sedgetool Thanks for the reply! Isn't there also the concern of fibers on the bottom of the wood tearing out?
One of the cams on my saw seems to tighten as i push the saw to the point where it binds completely which has caused me to have to leave some slop in the saw. Any tips anyone????
I would call Festool service...sounds like a flat spot has worn on 1 of the cams..... this happens over time cutting MDF or other abrasive materials...only have heard of it a couple of times over the years......
I have the really long guide track for ripping full 8’ sheets. But it’s not straight, never has been. Have you seen one that is straight? Thx
evreyone I have ever used is straight....soooo I have an upcoming video that may address this !!
@@sedgetool Oh that would be great. I rip plywood and I’m getting inconsistent width dimensions along the ends versus the middle area.
Sedge when setting the track to your mark should you be able to see your mark ❓or should you make your cut just Right of your marks ❓
I make my mark and split the line with the splinter guard.... my latest video releasing tomorrow will show this !!! 9-8-2024
@@sedgetool
Thank you sir,
I'm Not a festool owner but I enjoy woodworking and I certainly enjoy watching you and listening to the wealth of knowledge that you have. I'll be sure to 👀 for your new release and thanks again for your response 😊
I find it better to remove exess glue from the previous splinter guard with acitone ..The new one sticks better
cool
My version of a stiffener is way different.😂😂👍🇨🇦
too funny....
I was connecting rails all the time. Then a bought a 3000 mm rail!
So did I. About $800 in Australia but so worth it.
@@gregwyatt4555 wow that’s a high price there! It’s gone up in the USA to $545
@@MattLitkeRacing just checked - $839 (AUD) which is about the same since exchange rate is about 65c US = $1 AU. I'm surprised there is not a bigger difference.
I like to use my 3000mm rail in the shop .....
@@gregwyatt4555 For Australia, that’s amazing - they must have forgotten to add in the usual 20% “support Aussie retailers” levy😀
I've seen guy lubricate these tracks it's the wrong thing to do. Proceeds to lubricate saw 😅 also why cut the splinter guard long if you are going to leave it short of the track anyway?
just makes it easy for me
What are the name of the sprays?
PB Blaster Dry Lube. amzn.to/40Qe2Zj