What is the Y stepper motor? i think i might just go get a replacement for mine, i just bought this printer secondhand this past weekend and have been sitting with it every night now sorting out problems, coming from an ender 3 v2, this thing is rather trash
I think it can be good. Some of the hardware is pretty crappy but the frame is pretty solid. With some strategic replacements, it could be good. The Y-Axis motor on my printer was WAY under-driven. I had to adjust the VREF to get more power to the motor (I have a video on this). Also, I adjusted the acceleration and jerk settings. Since then, the Y-Axis motor has been solid. No skipping, no overheating. I am currently working on replacing the printhead with a Hemera XS with Revo. I should have files and some videos showing my methods here pretty soon.
@@Grimm3D so I’ve done alot to the printer since I posted this, so firstly, I said screw it to wanhao scrappy firmware and replaced the main board with a btt Skr poco and am now running klipper and then my most recent change is that I moved over to a Creality sprite extruder because I couldn’t get replacement gears for the extruder nor could I get the right mk10 nozzle and since printing as been a breeze, not perfect but am now printing at 80mm/a with 1000mm/s^2 accel with the same motors but different drivers, it really makes the difference
@@SeaKiddo Excellent!! I have stuck with the Wanhao mainboard and firmware and I'm getting pretty decent results. I finally have the Revo Hemera XS up and running some test prints now and it is looking good. I have not started trying to increase speed yet, but things are going the right direction.
I purchased it because I like to tinker and out of all the 'big' printers I was watching, this one seemed to have a very strong frame and was direct drive. I also got it on a Black Friday deal for a pretty good price. I have a Prusa Mk3 also, If you want a printer that is completely solid right out of the box, I recommend Prusa. They are even working on a Prusa XL, which will be an X-Y core printer with over 400mm bed and height. Thanks for watching!
I ended up putting a 300x300 silicone heated bed under my d9 400 so I'm running 2 beds one external mosfet and secondary power supply I can hit 150c around the hole bed now wasn't able to get passed 80c before
Not a bad idea. Other ideas would be to swap out the entire main board for a better one, maybe 32bit. I do not plan to do this, but it is an idea. Secondly, I have emailed the Moon's Motor company in the past about some of the D9 motors, they said that they have MUCH better motors available now, that will get better results from the same current flow (without changing drivers). It might be worth looking at better motors too. If I need to, I will look into new motors. Mine are working pretty good after setting the VREF properly. But, time will tell. Thanks for watching!
On mine, the driver chips are soldered directly to the board. To change them out would require removing them (carefully) and re-soldering on the new chips. If the chips are different sizes, you would actually need to solder on a socket with leads long enough to bend into position and then plug the new driver chip in. There is plenty of room, it just won't be easy. Have you tried adjusting the VREF? I have a video on doing this. My motors were skipping horrendously, properly adjusting the VREF and slowing the printer down solved the problem. Out of the box, my VREF setting were way off, which means the motors were not getting proper current. The driver chips in my D9 are rated at 2 amps max, which is more than my motors are rated at. Usually people aim for 80% of max on their chip or motor(s), whichever is less. Don't want to overdrive things. Also, if you are raising the current that is flowing through the chips, I recommend adding a bigger/better fan to the bottom of the box (I have a video for this too).
Like I said before, I did just enough tweaking of the setting to get the thing to print decently, after I get the physical/mechanical issues solved/upgraded I'll look at more tweaking and fine tuning, maybe even tweak to regain some speed. Until then, just gotta keep moving forward.
@Blondie SL You might be suffering from heat creep. Or you could have a clog. Go ahead and run your motor-swap test, but be ready to look other places. Additionally, you might have a really low VREF on your extruder driver causing the motor to be weak. Last idea I have is that you might look at your e-step setting. I don't think I have a video on setting your e-steps, but you can easily find one online. When I first tested my printer, I asked it to extrude 100mm of filament and it actually extruded only 75mm.
What is the Y stepper motor? i think i might just go get a replacement for mine, i just bought this printer secondhand this past weekend and have been sitting with it every night now sorting out problems, coming from an ender 3 v2, this thing is rather trash
I think it can be good. Some of the hardware is pretty crappy but the frame is pretty solid. With some strategic replacements, it could be good.
The Y-Axis motor on my printer was WAY under-driven. I had to adjust the VREF to get more power to the motor (I have a video on this). Also, I adjusted the acceleration and jerk settings. Since then, the Y-Axis motor has been solid. No skipping, no overheating.
I am currently working on replacing the printhead with a Hemera XS with Revo. I should have files and some videos showing my methods here pretty soon.
@@Grimm3D so I’ve done alot to the printer since I posted this, so firstly, I said screw it to wanhao scrappy firmware and replaced the main board with a btt Skr poco and am now running klipper and then my most recent change is that I moved over to a Creality sprite extruder because I couldn’t get replacement gears for the extruder nor could I get the right mk10 nozzle and since printing as been a breeze, not perfect but am now printing at 80mm/a with 1000mm/s^2 accel with the same motors but different drivers, it really makes the difference
@@SeaKiddo Excellent!! I have stuck with the Wanhao mainboard and firmware and I'm getting pretty decent results. I finally have the Revo Hemera XS up and running some test prints now and it is looking good.
I have not started trying to increase speed yet, but things are going the right direction.
It's not very good printer out of the box has so many problems it's unbelievable wanhao released it
I purchased it because I like to tinker and out of all the 'big' printers I was watching, this one seemed to have a very strong frame and was direct drive. I also got it on a Black Friday deal for a pretty good price. I have a Prusa Mk3 also, If you want a printer that is completely solid right out of the box, I recommend Prusa. They are even working on a Prusa XL, which will be an X-Y core printer with over 400mm bed and height.
Thanks for watching!
I ended up putting a 300x300 silicone heated bed under my d9 400 so I'm running 2 beds one external mosfet and secondary power supply I can hit 150c around the hole bed now wasn't able to get passed 80c before
I will be adding a 520mm x 520mm custom, dual-zone heater to my D9 as soon as it arrives. Stay tuned for that video. Thanks for watching!
@@Grimm3D I will do the same mod to my Wanhao D9 MK2 500. Cant wait to try it out.
Also I'm going to remove the drive chips off the d9 stock board and replace them with tmc2208 drivers chips
Not a bad idea. Other ideas would be to swap out the entire main board for a better one, maybe 32bit. I do not plan to do this, but it is an idea.
Secondly, I have emailed the Moon's Motor company in the past about some of the D9 motors, they said that they have MUCH better motors available now, that will get better results from the same current flow (without changing drivers). It might be worth looking at better motors too. If I need to, I will look into new motors. Mine are working pretty good after setting the VREF properly. But, time will tell.
Thanks for watching!
On mine, the driver chips are soldered directly to the board. To change them out would require removing them (carefully) and re-soldering on the new chips. If the chips are different sizes, you would actually need to solder on a socket with leads long enough to bend into position and then plug the new driver chip in.
There is plenty of room, it just won't be easy.
Have you tried adjusting the VREF? I have a video on doing this. My motors were skipping horrendously, properly adjusting the VREF and slowing the printer down solved the problem. Out of the box, my VREF setting were way off, which means the motors were not getting proper current. The driver chips in my D9 are rated at 2 amps max, which is more than my motors are rated at. Usually people aim for 80% of max on their chip or motor(s), whichever is less. Don't want to overdrive things.
Also, if you are raising the current that is flowing through the chips, I recommend adding a bigger/better fan to the bottom of the box (I have a video for this too).
Like I said before, I did just enough tweaking of the setting to get the thing to print decently, after I get the physical/mechanical issues solved/upgraded I'll look at more tweaking and fine tuning, maybe even tweak to regain some speed. Until then, just gotta keep moving forward.
@Blondie SL You might be suffering from heat creep. Or you could have a clog. Go ahead and run your motor-swap test, but be ready to look other places.
Additionally, you might have a really low VREF on your extruder driver causing the motor to be weak. Last idea I have is that you might look at your e-step setting. I don't think I have a video on setting your e-steps, but you can easily find one online. When I first tested my printer, I asked it to extrude 100mm of filament and it actually extruded only 75mm.