@@martinrussell6174 es cierto. Nos habíamos acostumbrado a verlo todo, pero es entendible que por su trabajo de mostrar el proceso obtenga algún beneficio extra ($$$$)
Probably the most important issue wrt no functioning display after Digital board re-cap is it looked like there was a resistor next to the last cap you replaced at 26:09 it was visible at 24:28 and 25:59 just above test pin A7, and wiped away by soldering iron at 26:10 Think from the Service manual it's R1411 Part no.1-208-860-81 METAL CHIP 75 Ohms 0.5% 1/16W which appears to be the 75 Ohm o/p resister to the Y i/p of the LCD panel.... That will do it! Plus at 19:12 when you broke the track getting that broken cap out of the board the track went in 3 directions and I couldn't check for damage to either pad afterwards.... I wonder if that is still a potential problem area especially the track that led to the 14V label on the board. Also at 18:29 it looked like the pin you resoldered (next to the PC10 label) maybe need to be rechecked for continuity to the copper trace hidden underneath the white thick board marking up to R14 and/or is there maybe some missing track between the resoldered pin and the pin above as the board between the 2 appears to be a different colour (difficult to see if track is missing) or does this pin go somewhere else????
pretty good analysis and you paid some attention, awesome! Pretty sloppy job again. Why did he not do what he said, he said he wants to re-do the solder joints but he never did them. Also he could have mounted the re-capped caps better. A lot of potential mistakes and potential problems in the future.
Well spotted! R1411 did get wiped away - I never saw that (camera in the way…). You have certainly saved me some time diagnosing that one. Thanks @wino99999 ! We’ll see how it works out in part 2 eh?
Thanks Mark. Very methodical and educational. Looking forward to Part 2 Shame some of the people don’t listen to the end to know that there will be a Part 2
I swear half of all people have some horror story about WD and the other half some horror story about Seagate. And now they're the only two options (other than Toshiba), so maybe the one bad drive you guys had 20 years ago was a fluke and not a series of IBM Deskstars.
@@Nukle0nworst hard drive I ever had was a Samsung 1 day old and it almost caught fire ,a shame as it was faster and quieter than the Maxtor I replaced it with , Samsung not the best for quality had loads of failed Seagate's not had a WD drive fail yet and two of them are from 2012 ,and WD black 8tb is nearly five years old as is a 6 gig Toshiba .
Mark I sent you an email regarding some very obscure amplifiers that have been deemed impossible to repair. Please, you're the only person who can fix them!
Always sad to see kit in such a state. I honestly don’t know, apart from the graffiti and of course terrible soldering how stuff gets in such dreadful condition? Looks like it’s been stored in a very damp shed. Another excellent video as always. Look forward to pt.2.
Well, it looks like it’s been used thoroughly like how it was designed to be used. And also customized to how the owner liked it! My take on technology is unless it is rare, you use it to your hearts desire because that’s what it was designed for.
I used to see a bit of gear come in to the shop that was covered in graffiti like this, or the owner had plastered it with all sorts of stickers. It told me a lot about what sort of state the inside might be in and I was never wrong. It's really no different to people who spray that unreadable crap all over walls and buildings.
@@scott7305maybe but my stuff is used how it’s supposed to be but even kit I have what’s over 20 years old still looks like it came of the factory floor and that’s not being finicky but just some care and common sense. Let stuff get damp and corrode like this plus all the dodgy work inside and not surprising even Mark can’t fix it one episode. There’s plenty of stuff like this on the online auction sites unfortunately, ‘one careful owner’. 😂😂😂
To remove 'The annoying plastic clip' - take a bic biro, pull out the refill thingy and slip the end of the biro 'tube' over the plastic clip. Always seems to fit 🙂
A lot of this domestic gear is built to a price, even name brand stuff like Sony. I question the design of much of it, because a well-designed circuit should not run so hot that it scorches the board. If it's doing that then there's a design flaw because there are plenty of ways of making something that runs cool to the touch.
I had 2 dvd recorders and they both had to be repaired on the overheated powerboard. Temp went up to almost 46 degrees C! And it was Philips and a JVC recorder. The JVC now got a small ventilator installed. These brands are not what they used to be.....
Merk we missed you! :) Just a note, as someone who works with computers, it would have been wise to disconnect the hard drive before anything is touched and worked on, till everything is fixed. They do not like any over voltage or spikes, so while testing it could have been damaged.
My experience with DVRs of this era is that the hard drive needs to be detectable and readable for the device to do anything at all. It might be a good idea to connect it to a PC and check its SMART info and run a surface\self test. Connecting a working IDE drive of a similar capacity may be all the player needs, if the current drive is dead. I've also seen some DVRs that store their own encrypted firmware on the drive so unless you have a copy of the drive, the entire thing becomes a brick once the drive fails. I hope that's not the case here.
I am just wondering of the hard drive format. Indeed, Sony used in some of their hdd dvd-r recorders combo a proprietary format (BSD type?) that makes it impossible to read on a normal PC unless you haven't à special Windows software to read the files. (IsoBuster software) For some of them you even have to get some kind of remote to allow the device to format the new hard drive ! Mark will also have to change for a serial ata port. This thing is a nightmare. We'll see...
Those old IDE hard drives had issues with aging motor bearing lube. As they aged, the spindle lube would become gummy causing the spindle on the motor for the platters to get stuck. A temporary fix (to recover the data) was to take the drive out and manually spin the whole drive assembly to try break the motor spindle loose. It mostly worked, but not always. If you can't find a problem with the supply, it might be worth a try. Good video!
remember this working a very very long time ago. Number one thing to do though when attempting this is to have long power and data cables, otherwise you end up with more problems when you yank the connectors out 😆
I have a DUT socket fed from an isolation transformer, through a DP isolator and with the option to switch in one or two dim bulb limiters. Apart from the transformer, all the parts came from the local DIY shop as they are just standard domestic electrical items. The trafo was from Screwfix. The bulbs are red 60w, as it is hard to find much else in the way of incandescent lamps locally. I have also created a L and N loop feeding the socket for current clamp metering.
For everyone else who’s having a hissy fit, if you watch to 27:50 he’s paused the repair for other priorities, no one said you have to pay to see the conclusion. I’m sure there’ll be a pt2.
Should I take what I like about how you do things even though I’m registered blind? I understand fully I want to amateur radio so it’s useful watching what you do and you do it with a sense of humour which I love.
Not necessarily, but you can test if the firmware is active by plugging it onto an IDE card for a PC. Have to say this recorder sports one of the very last Parallel ATA drives that were ever produced.
coming from Sony it is expected. unless you can flash the firmware to something better ( maybe Rockbox, I'm dreaming of course ) or else, idk i'd throw in some PATA SSD of like 120 gig from aliexpress and see how it goes. i made a box like this a while ago, but the hissing from a mecha HDD is cringe, so now I just use a random phone as my main media player, and a chonk of a SD card in it.
I`m a mechanical fitter, and as most people know, about the best hand tools you can get (if you can handle the stupid prices) are Snap On or MAC. With Fluke and Testo for measuring instuments. What specialist equipmnet and tools do you prefer use.
Hello, as always, your videos are great. You could show how you have protected the devices that you connect to the network from voltage and short circuits, with their diagram and what you use in your workshop. Thank you and greetings from Spain.
HI Mark, great to see another video again. Those Harddrives only click like that, when the Readers are stuck. Seagates are notorious for that. When You took that Cap out, you knocked one of the little ones to one side. That could not be a good thing?. Are we going to see the conclusion to this Fix?. Keep 'Em Coming.
I've done some repairs on 2 Sony CDP101's early CD players and the boards are very easy to damage...cheaply made! I could do with re-lubricating the one I use occasionally, but don't really want to cause any more damage.
I did my Radio Tradesmen/TV apprenticeship back in 1974. Ran an electronics/whitegoods repair business for 30 years.........A number of Techs, would bring me stuff they could not repair. Sadly, the Techs nightmare when attempting to repair an Item that has been worked on before, is you don't know if they have added more faults than the unit originally had!.....These repairs were quite often extremely difficult, and some units were deemed non-repairable...after spending X amount of hours on and Labor costs could outweigh the replacement value of the unit!!
Is it possible me to recommend some Makita screwdriver... been using these ~10 years and they are amazing... faster than average small comparable screwdrivers
I like protecting connectors with (cheap, unrated, not the professional kind) hvac alu tape, but kitchen tinfoil can be perfectly fine as well. Quicker to apply than Kapton, cheaper, better shielding since it radiates most of the heat away.
Advance Tapes AT502 (pressure sensitive adhesive) Non-Conductive (aluminium) Metallic Silver 50mm x 45m ...is very good for rework thermal shielding. Don't pay big bux. lol
Nice job so far Mark 👍 Just looking at the board in this section at 16:54 . Is that a crack in the board going through the IC10 white silk screen, right up to those 2 small traces at the top of the picture. Those boards sure are fragile feckers alright.
Do you think you could repair my Sharp portable minidisc player that comes up with TOC error. Think there is a tiny cog on the laser drive that cracks.
Be careful with those Quickest mains connectors. I've got one and the neutral contact went light. While testing an amplifier, I closed it and the power flicked. Taking all sorts out on one channel. I'm now working through all those problems
Hi very informative. I like your esr meter it's very easy to read. Can you tell me how it was made. I don't like these new digital esr meters and would like to build my own if possible
I have a Sony TC-R503 and it has a tape stuck in the deck. It is definitely in need of a service as well. Wish I could drop it off to you but I'm in the state's. Don't know what I'm going to do with it...
you should do a video on say how to make a bench top power supply from an old computers power supply ...or make something cool from old tech headed for the junkyard...
I got an Escient MP3 juke for free off a guy because the red status light was flashing. I took it home, found a factory reset on the back and yes it still flashed, but this time the HD started to spin, and it took a while (about 60 secs) but the light stopped flashing and it works! With 11,000 mp3s on it to boot! But when I ras into it, it reminds me of the 2003 era computer gear in it...slow!
I've got an NAD C 320 for repair into which someone has replaced all capacitors and even mounted some of them with glue upside down onto the PCB and connected them with wires... The main electrolytic snap in capacitors are some unknown brand sourced from the far east and the solder side is pretty damaged too. It would have been in a perfect working condition if it wasn't butchered by the re-capping army.
A rare treat to see a schematic where the ICs are named the good old traditional "IC" instead of "U". I see the transistors are named "Q" though, instead of "TR". Grrrr.
What's great about blank media in Canada (is it though, as we're all assumed pirates?), is a tax is levied on all blank media to offset piracy. We're allowed to copy all the media we like, as long as we borrow the original recording to make a copy for ourselves. The owner of the music can't rip a CD to tape or digital files and give the the copies to someone.
Haven't finished watching but that kinda immediate start and stop on a PC would usually mean some kinda short protection, so I would assume something that's failed closed.
@menditmark I loved you in another yt video titled Eric Clapton - Layla (Live Aid 1985) at 5:35. Can you imagine, the lad lost both of his legs. Jeesus. As long as you keep the right voltage running, I guess.
Mark my kenwood hi fi keeps locking out when switched on all the other components perfect working order , its quite and old set .Any thoughts would be appreciated. 😊
Having seen one of your earlier videos, I have recently bought one of those Parkside screwdrivers, quite disapointed to see that they no longer have the offset output shaft, but hey ho it was £12 ish
Wow...this one seems to keep kicking you in the delicate areas. You make progress and then things that used to work, stop working! I trust you'll figure it out.
I’ve a korg i5m from the 80’/90’s and the floppy drive is gone… it’s the brain for a keyboard.. I use it in a studio as a sound module.. any chance mend it mark would take it on for me..??????
If you can find an IDE one yes, or you use a SSD with a converter. Don't know though if there isn't a formatting procedure to do in a proprietary Sony way, and if that is possible to do with the jukebox itself.
![🔴 ฟุตบอลแชมป์กีฬา 7HD แชมเปียน คัพ 2024 [รอบรองชนะเลิศ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zPm8ClLVhoE/mqdefault.jpg)
Want to Master the art of electronic repair?
Check out MendItLikeMark: www.menditmark.com/menditlikemark
Ooooh Marky boy's been to the LIDL!
Hi Mark I want to know about your soldering iron green 💚 color bubble grip like
Any model number
Yes I dooooo
I always get excited when Mark puts out a new video!!
Me to. Always a joy.
...except that this, sadly, is half a video. What a shame. I really loved this channel.
@@martinrussell6174 es cierto. Nos habíamos acostumbrado a verlo todo, pero es entendible que por su trabajo de mostrar el proceso obtenga algún beneficio extra ($$$$)
More than Excitation, I actually celebrate.
@@martinrussell6174yea seems he went the pay to watch route.
Probably the most important issue wrt no functioning display after Digital board re-cap is it looked like there was a resistor next to the last cap you replaced at 26:09 it was visible at 24:28 and 25:59 just above test pin A7, and wiped away by soldering iron at 26:10 Think from the Service manual it's R1411 Part no.1-208-860-81 METAL CHIP 75 Ohms 0.5% 1/16W which appears to be the 75 Ohm o/p resister to the Y i/p of the LCD panel.... That will do it!
Plus at 19:12 when you broke the track getting that broken cap out of the board the track went in 3 directions and I couldn't check for damage to either pad afterwards.... I wonder if that is still a potential problem area especially the track that led to the 14V label on the board. Also at 18:29 it looked like the pin you resoldered (next to the PC10 label) maybe need to be rechecked for continuity to the copper trace hidden underneath the white thick board marking up to R14 and/or is there maybe some missing track between the resoldered pin and the pin above as the board between the 2 appears to be a different colour (difficult to see if track is missing) or does this pin go somewhere else????
pretty good analysis and you paid some attention, awesome! Pretty sloppy job again. Why did he not do what he said, he said he wants to re-do the solder joints but he never did them. Also he could have mounted the re-capped caps better. A lot of potential mistakes and potential problems in the future.
What are you a tech wizard?
Well spotted! R1411 did get wiped away - I never saw that (camera in the way…). You have certainly saved me some time diagnosing that one. Thanks @wino99999 ! We’ll see how it works out in part 2 eh?
Just watching over breakfast and came here to say the same thing about the LCD resistor. Easily missed.
Yep, I noticed some of that too. "There is at least a whole ring around it" ... but it was floating.
That was disappointing to not see it finished being fixed. Kept me up all night wanting to see it completed 😢.
Always a good day when Mark gets stuck in. Really enjoy it.
Thanks Mark. Very methodical and educational. Looking forward to Part 2
Shame some of the people don’t listen to the end to know that there will be a Part 2
Never a good start to open something up and see a Seagate Barracuda hard drive inside. The flashbacks...
Not to mention the filth all over the inside of the bottom plate that looks like dust mixed with dried up beer.
I swear half of all people have some horror story about WD and the other half some horror story about Seagate. And now they're the only two options (other than Toshiba), so maybe the one bad drive you guys had 20 years ago was a fluke and not a series of IBM Deskstars.
@@Nukle0n Deskstars AKA DeathStars.
@@Nukle0nworst hard drive I ever had was a Samsung 1 day old and it almost caught fire ,a shame as it was faster and quieter than the Maxtor I replaced it with , Samsung not the best for quality had loads of failed Seagate's not had a WD drive fail yet and two of them are from 2012 ,and WD black 8tb is nearly five years old as is a 6 gig Toshiba .
$h1tegate! 💩👎🤣
Glad to see a well established service equipment's and schematic availability
Mark I sent you an email regarding some very obscure amplifiers that have been deemed impossible to repair. Please, you're the only person who can fix them!
ha😂
have you tried with mr carlson's lab?
@@LagrangePoint0 will do thanks
Always sad to see kit in such a state. I honestly don’t know, apart from the graffiti and of course terrible soldering how stuff gets in such dreadful condition? Looks like it’s been stored in a very damp shed.
Another excellent video as always. Look forward to pt.2.
Party gear only used on occasion, put in the shed otherwise?
Well, it looks like it’s been used thoroughly like how it was designed to be used. And also customized to how the owner liked it! My take on technology is unless it is rare, you use it to your hearts desire because that’s what it was designed for.
I used to see a bit of gear come in to the shop that was covered in graffiti like this, or the owner had plastered it with all sorts of stickers. It told me a lot about what sort of state the inside might be in and I was never wrong. It's really no different to people who spray that unreadable crap all over walls and buildings.
@@Nukle0nshed is probably the worst place for this kind of equipment apart from leaving it outside I suppose.
@@scott7305maybe but my stuff is used how it’s supposed to be but even kit I have what’s over 20 years old still looks like it came of the factory floor and that’s not being finicky but just some care and common sense. Let stuff get damp and corrode like this plus all the dodgy work inside and not surprising even Mark can’t fix it one episode.
There’s plenty of stuff like this on the online auction sites unfortunately, ‘one careful owner’. 😂😂😂
To remove 'The annoying plastic clip' - take a bic biro, pull out the refill thingy and slip the end of the biro 'tube' over the plastic clip. Always seems to fit 🙂
that power board IC has seen some serious HEAT, its area of the board is severely darkened!
Ran 24/7 for years
A lot of this domestic gear is built to a price, even name brand stuff like Sony. I question the design of much of it, because a well-designed circuit should not run so hot that it scorches the board. If it's doing that then there's a design flaw because there are plenty of ways of making something that runs cool to the touch.
I had 2 dvd recorders and they both had to be repaired on the overheated powerboard. Temp went up to almost 46 degrees C! And it was Philips and a JVC recorder. The JVC now got a small ventilator installed. These brands are not what they used to be.....
My favorite channel! Thanks Mark , always a treat when you upload !
Much easier to cut out surface mount caps and clean up than heating up the ground planes.
As ever, an interesting project Mark.
Merk we missed you! :)
Just a note, as someone who works with computers, it would have been wise to disconnect the hard drive before anything is touched and worked on, till everything is fixed. They do not like any over voltage or spikes, so while testing it could have been damaged.
Oh, a new screwdriver. Mark, you big spender! 😂
Sometimes all you need is a little treat
dude, these are about 20bits at Lidl !
Excellent work showing the troubleshooting steps clearly!
My experience with DVRs of this era is that the hard drive needs to be detectable and readable for the device to do anything at all. It might be a good idea to connect it to a PC and check its SMART info and run a surface\self test. Connecting a working IDE drive of a similar capacity may be all the player needs, if the current drive is dead. I've also seen some DVRs that store their own encrypted firmware on the drive so unless you have a copy of the drive, the entire thing becomes a brick once the drive fails. I hope that's not the case here.
Someone must have made 1:1 images of running installations. Sure they can't be found online?
I am just wondering of the hard drive format.
Indeed, Sony used in some of their hdd dvd-r recorders combo a proprietary format (BSD type?) that makes it impossible to read on a normal PC unless you haven't à special Windows software to read the files. (IsoBuster software)
For some of them you even have to get some kind of remote to allow the device to format the new hard drive !
Mark will also have to change for a serial ata port.
This thing is a nightmare.
We'll see...
Those old IDE hard drives had issues with aging motor bearing lube. As they aged, the spindle lube would become gummy causing the spindle on the motor for the platters to get stuck. A temporary fix (to recover the data) was to take the drive out and manually spin the whole drive assembly to try break the motor spindle loose. It mostly worked, but not always. If you can't find a problem with the supply, it might be worth a try. Good video!
remember this working a very very long time ago. Number one thing to do though when attempting this is to have long power and data cables, otherwise you end up with more problems when you yank the connectors out 😆
It's obviously not that (or stiction) as you can hear the drive spinning at the correct speed.
No click of death either - I would bet the HDD is fine
No way on these hard drives. You're thinking of a drive from the 80s. This is a relatively modern (2005-2008) drive. It's the same as your modern one
Really love your humor. See this professional rework stuff all the time. ;) And whoowhoo a new scewdriver from LIDL. Thanks for the video, Mark. 🤟
Excellent video as usual. Those Gu dessert pots are too good to throw away, excellent demonstration of recycling into a screw pot 😊
Cor blimey - was that rain at 26:00?
I was wondering the same thing!
Very probable. Been heavy rain across the Midlands all week! Very wet indeed.
Edited Monday so probably filmed Saturday
@ 25:35 - Do you know that you have the steady hands of a surgeon? Well done.
Another great video. Could you say what solder sucker you use for your repairs? It seems very effective.
Eww, that thing has had a very hard life. Some people don't deserve nice things, and others shouldn't be "repairing" things!! What a mess. 😂
This was really great vid with many interesting problems and still there are some nasty ones waiting for Mark. My humble thanks!
Awesome as Always Really interesting Thankyou
I used to sell these units so I am looking forward to watching this.
Hello Mark. I'm very interested in your Isolated Test Socket. Did you post a video about it? Is there any schematics available? Thank you.
its just a current limiter aka dim bulb tester. They are available on ebay
@@adz300107 If it's isolated then it will be fed from an isolating transformer. It looks like he has that as well as the dim bulb on that socket.
@sw6188 Yes, he showed us a Carroll & Meynell 3000VA Isolation Transformer 230V/230V in a previous video.
I have a DUT socket fed from an isolation transformer, through a DP isolator and with the option to switch in one or two dim bulb limiters. Apart from the transformer, all the parts came from the local DIY shop as they are just standard domestic electrical items. The trafo was from Screwfix. The bulbs are red 60w, as it is hard to find much else in the way of incandescent lamps locally. I have also created a L and N loop feeding the socket for current clamp metering.
Mark is living the dream 🙏🏻
I hope I'll know as much as him one day and have the ability to make a living like this.
Bloody hell Mark what a cliffhanger!! 😆
Looking forward to the sequel!
For everyone else who’s having a hissy fit, if you watch to 27:50 he’s paused the repair for other priorities, no one said you have to pay to see the conclusion. I’m sure there’ll be a pt2.
I love to watch Mend it Mark but i don't like it to watch a vlog half and have to pay for the rest
Waiting for the next one...
Regards!
Should I take what I like about how you do things even though I’m registered blind? I understand fully I want to amateur radio so it’s useful watching what you do and you do it with a sense of humour which I love.
Hi Mark, great video as always! What solder do you use and where do you get it from? It seems like decent stuff!
👀 that new screwdriver! Dude that power board was a mess! 😧 Looking forward to the follow up video.
Your new screwdriver is fantastic, Mark!
I suspect the HDD is fubar. And it will be in some proprietary encrypted format. Good luck!
Not necessarily, but you can test if the firmware is active by plugging it onto an IDE card for a PC. Have to say this recorder sports one of the very last Parallel ATA drives that were ever produced.
coming from Sony it is expected. unless you can flash the firmware to something better ( maybe Rockbox, I'm dreaming of course ) or else, idk i'd throw in some PATA SSD of like 120 gig from aliexpress and see how it goes.
i made a box like this a while ago, but the hissing from a mecha HDD is cringe, so now I just use a random phone as my main media player, and a chonk of a SD card in it.
I`m a mechanical fitter, and as most people know, about the best hand tools you can get (if you can handle the stupid prices) are Snap On or MAC. With Fluke and Testo for measuring instuments. What specialist equipmnet and tools do you prefer use.
elektronikten hiç anlamıyorum.Ama sizi seyretmek ve dinlemek beni sakinleştiriyor.
Hello, as always, your videos are great. You could show how you have protected the devices that you connect to the network from voltage and short circuits, with their diagram and what you use in your workshop. Thank you and greetings from Spain.
HI Mark, great to see another video again. Those Harddrives only click like that, when the Readers are stuck. Seagates are notorious for that. When You took that Cap out, you knocked one of the little ones to one side. That could not be a good thing?. Are we going to see the conclusion to this Fix?. Keep 'Em Coming.
Thanks!! I shall persevere with it, and hopefully it turns out worthy of editing into a part 2 video. I certainly hope so.
My goodness, that was a rush. Your diagnostics level is above mine so I'm struggling a bit. Great video though, plenty to take on board.
Anything with the name "Seagate" on it should be suspect #1
Being a 2007 model, Seagate might be OK, it used to be good.
I've done some repairs on 2 Sony CDP101's early CD players and the boards are very easy to damage...cheaply made! I could do with re-lubricating the one I use occasionally, but don't really want to cause any more damage.
I love this channel so much.
Somebody really loved their Jukebox
At 20:48 you had display so it's probably just a contact problem, if it doesn't work at the end.
Mark is the English Mr Carlson.
Damn the twist action on that screwdriver :) I want one now!
There’s nothing worse than discovering previous poor workmanship ☠️
I did my Radio Tradesmen/TV apprenticeship back in 1974. Ran an electronics/whitegoods repair business for 30 years.........A number of Techs, would bring me stuff they could not repair. Sadly, the Techs nightmare when attempting to repair an Item that has been worked on before, is you don't know if they have added more faults than the unit originally had!.....These repairs were quite often extremely difficult, and some units were deemed non-repairable...after spending X amount of hours on and Labor costs could outweigh the replacement value of the unit!!
Is it possible me to recommend some Makita screwdriver... been using these ~10 years and they are amazing... faster than average small comparable screwdrivers
Youhuu.. A new video, now i’m not going to sleep anyway 😅
I like protecting connectors with (cheap, unrated, not the professional kind) hvac alu tape, but kitchen tinfoil can be perfectly fine as well. Quicker to apply than Kapton, cheaper, better shielding since it radiates most of the heat away.
Advance Tapes AT502 (pressure sensitive adhesive) Non-Conductive (aluminium) Metallic Silver 50mm x 45m ...is very good for rework thermal shielding. Don't pay big bux. lol
I signed up, cant wait to start 😊
Yessss another Mark video!
Can’t wait to see the next episode….
right on for the cordless, and wow they are using seagate HDD, damn top of the line back in the day
I'd love to know how to make that analogue ESR meter
Thats's exiting. I can not wait to know why the display doesn't work? Come on.....make the next episode asap 🙂
Nice job so far Mark 👍 Just looking at the board in this section at 16:54 . Is that a crack in the board going through the IC10 white silk screen, right up to those 2 small traces at the top of the picture. Those boards sure are fragile feckers alright.
excelente trabajo saludos desde Tarija-Bolivia 👍
Great work sir 😊
Mark do you sell on the repaired stuff? I’m a reseller and have picked up loads of amplifiers that don’t work properly
Thank You Mark
will the fallow up video be available here as normal ?
Do you think you could repair my Sharp portable minidisc player that comes up with TOC error. Think there is a tiny cog on the laser drive that cracks.
Mark, what solution do you use in your ultrasonic cleaner?
Be careful with those Quickest mains connectors. I've got one and the neutral contact went light. While testing an amplifier, I closed it and the power flicked. Taking all sorts out on one channel. I'm now working through all those problems
Hi very informative. I like your esr meter it's very easy to read. Can you tell me how it was made. I don't like these new digital esr meters and would like to build my own if possible
I have a Sony TC-R503 and it has a tape stuck in the deck. It is definitely in need of a service as well. Wish I could drop it off to you but I'm in the state's. Don't know what I'm going to do with it...
Mark! Why don't you use the push and twist method when removing SMD electrolytics? Seeing the hot air among all those IC:s made me nervous.
Great job, sir!
you should do a video on say how to make a bench top power supply from an old computers power supply ...or make something cool from old tech headed for the junkyard...
Thank you for posting. 👍👍
Yes!!! A new video 😊😊😊
Good. Is this your diy esr meter?
Mark I would like to know what fuse bulb is the direct replacement for the Tascam32 VU meter lamp?
I got an Escient MP3 juke for free off a guy because the red status light was flashing. I took it home, found a factory reset on the back and yes it still flashed, but this time the HD started to spin, and it took a while (about 60 secs) but the light stopped flashing and it works! With 11,000 mp3s on it to boot! But when I ras into it, it reminds me of the 2003 era computer gear in it...slow!
go for it, happyman !
i now you can do it !
Very good my friend 🇧🇷
I've got an NAD C 320 for repair into which someone has replaced all capacitors and even mounted some of them with glue upside down onto the PCB and connected them with wires... The main electrolytic snap in capacitors are some unknown brand sourced from the far east and the solder side is pretty damaged too. It would have been in a perfect working condition if it wasn't butchered by the re-capping army.
Many of my repair clients mention the words "internet" and "capacitors". 'The internet" is obsessed with the bloody things...
@@OnStageLighting Today I'm repairing a headphone distribution amp from a recording studio. All damage is caused by someone replacing capacitors.
A rare treat to see a schematic where the ICs are named the good old traditional "IC" instead of "U". I see the transistors are named "Q" though, instead of "TR". Grrrr.
This Gigajuke is a rare device today.
Those Gu desert pots are awesome they are yummy and make perfect screw holders, Also that Aldi screw driver is "Sick" as the youth would say.
Then, to watch the second part we need to pay?
This is just wizardry ! I love it 😀
good job mark
What's great about blank media in Canada (is it though, as we're all assumed pirates?), is a tax is levied on all blank media to offset piracy. We're allowed to copy all the media we like, as long as we borrow the original recording to make a copy for ourselves. The owner of the music can't rip a CD to tape or digital files and give the the copies to someone.
Haven't finished watching but that kinda immediate start and stop on a PC would usually mean some kinda short protection, so I would assume something that's failed closed.
Fun tip if you don't have soldering tweezers - just use two soldering irons.
@menditmark I loved you in another yt video titled Eric Clapton - Layla (Live Aid 1985) at 5:35. Can you imagine, the lad lost both of his legs. Jeesus. As long as you keep the right voltage running, I guess.
Mark my kenwood hi fi keeps locking out when switched on all the other components perfect working order , its quite and old set .Any thoughts would be appreciated. 😊
Having seen one of your earlier videos, I have recently bought one of those Parkside screwdrivers, quite disapointed to see that they no longer have the offset output shaft, but hey ho it was £12 ish
Wow...this one seems to keep kicking you in the delicate areas. You make progress and then things that used to work, stop working! I trust you'll figure it out.
I’ve a korg i5m from the 80’/90’s and the floppy drive is gone… it’s the brain for a keyboard.. I use it in a studio as a sound module.. any chance mend it mark would take it on for me..??????
you rock dude
If you put a 1TB hard drive in, does that make is a Terra Duke?
If you can find an IDE one yes, or you use a SSD with a converter. Don't know though if there isn't a formatting procedure to do in a proprietary Sony way, and if that is possible to do with the jukebox itself.
At 18:30min you should maybe connect the pad with the other one on top, it seems that it had a pcb track (that is gone) with the other component.
Im new here but not to old electronics you remind of the UK version to Mr. Carlson Lab 😁