After owning some plane (26 in working order, 12 of them are bench plane) I just come up with the same thought, a 5 1/2 as first choice, if can't find a 5 1/2, a 5 will do. But specificly metal plane, because the sole stay flat for much longer then wooden body plane, and moveable frog to close and open the mouth as needed. If your pocket is not so deep, at least go for a similar quality plane of dictum plane( luban, quangsheng, wood river etc.), I own a no.4 and no.62 from dictum, they work. If you have the buget, go for veritas custom. Veritas custom have different angle frog as accessories, this allow you to use the same plane to do the job of many plane(high angle smother for large panel, jointer for short piece, jack/fore plane for fast stock removal and shooting plane), of course, you need more than one plane blade. You can still do all except high angle smother with an hand plane at dictum level.
I have been eyeing the no. 62 from dictum for about half a year now, mainly because the handle attachment for shooting board (other brands available to me had no such thing readily). I use my no. 5 for shooting, but my hand gets cramped if I have to square more boards and I am growing tired of it. Would you recommend the 62 as a dedicated shooting plane (that would be its only use for me)
Greeting! I am a big fan of yours and love your work a lot. I live in Serbia, where the choice of handplanes (and hand tools in general) is very, very limited. only a few pieces can be found on the internet and those that need restoration. ordering from the European Union is not an option because I will pay more tax and VAT than the grater itself. now i'm using some really cheap planes (no 5 and 2) and i found some old wooden smoothing and jointer plane on the internet... but they work kind of ok for me.
I know your frustrations... I've had to pay a lot for some imported tools, and I understand it's not always possible! However, our ancestors did the most splendid work with local tools only. I wish you the best of luck!
Thanks! I believe HSS will hold an edge a bit longer and the Japanese is said to reduce the vibration that cause chatter. The back is a bit harder to flatten in the Japanese, in my experience. All of them are very good. And I wouldn't mind using any of them, particularly because I resharpen when the blade is still functional and not too dull.
@@germanperaire2022 Thanks a lot for your reply, it was very helpful to know they're all good, like you said, as beginners we want to get a quality tool that will not frustrate us, but without breaking the bank. I'd love to take one of your courses when I visit Barcelona sometime soon. Have a great rest of your day and keep making beautiful pieces of furniture :)
Germán. Olvidé comentarte en mi mensaje anterior que te hice caso en otro de tus videos y adquirí el Líen Nielsen 5 1/2 con ranas de 45o y 55o respectivamente. Ahora estoy queriendo adquirir el “Low Angle Jack”. Es por esa razón que te preguntaba qué me sugerías para este modelo de cepillo. Y gracias por tu pronta respuesta.
Creo que no hay ninguna situación en la que prefiera usar un garlopín de ángulo bajo si tengo el 5 1/2, y no lo compraría. Si has de escoger, yo prefiero Lie-Nielsen.
Hi, excuse me but what you meant the bed it is actually the frog I'm afraid. In other words, the frog lies on the bed of the plane and the blade does it along with the cap iron on the frog. Just to make it clear. Nice video though, I agree a jack plane is the most versatile one. Cheers!
As a complete novice in hand tools I have found myself reaching for my 5 1/2 all the time, I have found early on that I was getting snipe at the start of the board from my no4 but the longer sole to the blade on the 5 1/2 has stopped that and is teaching me to avoid it with the no4
Block planes are niche tools as far as I am concerned. A no 4 will be fine for preparing stock up to about 450 mm in length and is servicable for most tasks you'd use a block plane for. My go to plane for stock prep is a no 5 1/2 or 6. Ultimately it all depends on how you work.
After owning some plane (26 in working order, 12 of them are bench plane) I just come up with the same thought, a 5 1/2 as first choice, if can't find a 5 1/2, a 5 will do. But specificly metal plane, because the sole stay flat for much longer then wooden body plane, and moveable frog to close and open the mouth as needed.
If your pocket is not so deep, at least go for a similar quality plane of dictum plane( luban, quangsheng, wood river etc.), I own a no.4 and no.62 from dictum, they work. If you have the buget, go for veritas custom.
Veritas custom have different angle frog as accessories, this allow you to use the same plane to do the job of many plane(high angle smother for large panel, jointer for short piece, jack/fore plane for fast stock removal and shooting plane), of course, you need more than one plane blade. You can still do all except high angle smother with an hand plane at dictum level.
I completely agree!
I have been eyeing the no. 62 from dictum for about half a year now, mainly because the handle attachment for shooting board (other brands available to me had no such thing readily). I use my no. 5 for shooting, but my hand gets cramped if I have to square more boards and I am growing tired of it. Would you recommend the 62 as a dedicated shooting plane (that would be its only use for me)
Greeting! I am a big fan of yours and love your work a lot. I live in Serbia, where the choice of handplanes (and hand tools in general) is very, very limited. only a few pieces can be found on the internet and those that need restoration. ordering from the European Union is not an option because I will pay more tax and VAT than the grater itself. now i'm using some really cheap planes (no 5 and 2) and i found some old wooden smoothing and jointer plane on the internet... but they work kind of ok for me.
I know your frustrations... I've had to pay a lot for some imported tools, and I understand it's not always possible! However, our ancestors did the most splendid work with local tools only. I wish you the best of luck!
Hi, awesome video, these come in different variants, do you recommend the SK4 or the HSS blade? Japanese gets expensive though...
Thanks! I believe HSS will hold an edge a bit longer and the Japanese is said to reduce the vibration that cause chatter. The back is a bit harder to flatten in the Japanese, in my experience. All of them are very good. And I wouldn't mind using any of them, particularly because I resharpen when the blade is still functional and not too dull.
@@germanperaire2022 Thanks a lot for your reply, it was very helpful to know they're all good, like you said, as beginners we want to get a quality tool that will not frustrate us, but without breaking the bank. I'd love to take one of your courses when I visit Barcelona sometime soon. Have a great rest of your day and keep making beautiful pieces of furniture :)
Germán. Olvidé comentarte en mi mensaje anterior que te hice caso en otro de tus videos y adquirí el Líen Nielsen 5 1/2 con ranas de 45o y 55o respectivamente. Ahora estoy queriendo adquirir el “Low Angle Jack”. Es por esa razón que te preguntaba qué me sugerías para este modelo de cepillo. Y gracias por tu pronta respuesta.
Creo que no hay ninguna situación en la que prefiera usar un garlopín de ángulo bajo si tengo el 5 1/2, y no lo compraría. Si has de escoger, yo prefiero Lie-Nielsen.
How do I sharpen the HSS blade compared to the regular blades?
the sharpening technique is the same.
What brand of hand plane were you demonstrating in this video? I didn’t quite catch the name.
The no.5 by Dictum. All the info is in the link.
Hi, excuse me but what you meant the bed it is actually the frog I'm afraid. In other words, the frog lies on the bed of the plane and the blade does it along with the cap iron on the frog. Just to make it clear. Nice video though, I agree a jack plane is the most versatile one. Cheers!
As a complete novice in hand tools I have found myself reaching for my 5 1/2 all the time, I have found early on that I was getting snipe at the start of the board from my no4 but the longer sole to the blade on the 5 1/2 has stopped that and is teaching me to avoid it with the no4
Thanks for sharing! A heavier plane gives more control and fewer vibrations, indeed.
Excellent video. I too agree that a 5 or 5 1/2 is quite ideal as a first plane, plus a block plane to work chamfers.
Absolutely! I didn't go into block palnes but I agree 100%
Block planes are niche tools as far as I am concerned. A no 4 will be fine for preparing stock up to about 450 mm in length and is servicable for most tasks you'd use a block plane for. My go to plane for stock prep is a no 5 1/2 or 6. Ultimately it all depends on how you work.
Porque no hablas español. Son muy pocos los canales buenos de carpinteria y ahora tenemos los de habla ispana uno menos 😢