LINKS TO PLANES DISCUSSED IN VIDEO Stanley NO 62 Jack Plane: amzn.to/2OhpqI9 - $139 Lei Neilson NO 62 Jack Plane: bit.ly/2ULwXRW - $245 LOW ANGLE Block Plane I Use every day: amzn.to/2Fi1NLA - $82.99 Lei Nielsen RABETTING Block Plane: bit.ly/2YbP4CO - $175 INEXPENSIVE #7 JOINTER I Like: amzn.to/2TpIpBk - $88.95 RABBETINg 3 in 1 plane from Shop Fox: amzn.to/2YdYP3b - $73.76 Lei Nielsen Router Plane: bit.ly/2FrHe0g - $140 INEXPENSIVE Router Plane that gets the job done: amzn.to/2U3cdYN - $46.52 Lei Nielsen #164 Smoother (ridiculously awesome): bit.ly/2UUMjn6 - $265 INEXPENSIVE # 5 ½ that actually works pretty well: amzn.to/2U4jpnx - $48.94 Stanley #4 Smoother (not my favorite): amzn.to/2YaB38k - $109.27 plus $20 Shipping
May be a daft question, but have you got an apron plane? It's a low angle block plane that's literally designed to go in your apron pocket. Sounds like it would be an ideal addition for you.
When I retired I wanted to up my woodworking game so I splurged on a Veritas low angle jack plane. I'm still learning how to get the most from it but I was amazed at how quickly it put me ankle-deep in nearly transparent shavings, and how smooth a surface it left. What a joy to use.
You mentioned in passing the #5 from Grizzly is surprisingly good. I watched another video from a hand tool guy that said their #4 was also pretty good. At $30-40 each they seem to be a good option for beginners without too much “buy once cry once” pain where they can “earn” a better plane over time if they stick with the hobby and sharpen their skills.
I love to refurbish planes- cheap or not cheap there's just nothing like taking a rusty old relic and though I may not make it look like brand new but they're smoother, softer to handle and sharper than when new when I'm done.
A few years ago my wife went to Woodcraft looking for a Christmas present for me. There was a strange looking plane that was marked down. “Well, he doesn’t have one like that.” So she bought it for me - after all it was marked down. It is a Lie-Nielsen L-N6. It is intended for use on a shooting board, I guess, at least that is what I use it for but it looks like an enormous block plane. Actually, I use it a lot for regular planing. It is just about my favorite plane. I don’t know why they quit making it. Maybe because Lie-Nielsen makes that super expensive shooting board plane now.
I have watched a ton of woodworking videos these past few years and have subscribed to just about everybody's channel. If it wasn't for all the content all you guys put online, I wouldn't know where to begin. It's because of your collective knowledge, I am able to learn and make educated purchasing decisions without wasting money. It just so happens my first three planes were coincidentally purchased in the exact order you recommended. Veritas LA jack, then LN rabbeting block, then LN #4 bronze smoother. Again, thanks Jonathan for all your time and effort you put into these videos! They are very informative and encouraging as well!
Thanks for the info. Been into woodworking most of my life and was raised by a old school carpenter of 50 years in the business. Now that I'm retired and have my time now, I'm torn between power and hand tools. I do enjoy the hand tools more but realize the place of power tools. Owning several hand planes now that are Stanley's but am at that point of biting the bullet for a little more quality. Again, thanks for the info and I'll check out more of your videos on this subject.
I actually have 4 planes that I use for different situations. Starting with my smallest one, I have a Stanley shaping plane (it's like 3 inches long, it's honestly kind of adorable), a Stanley Bailey low angle block plane, an old Ace #4, and a *really* old Wards Master #6 jointing plane. The main reason I have the little one along with the bigger ones is because I plan on getting into lutherie, and I've been told that having a shaping plane is super useful for the kind of instruments I want to make.
In golf terms, I would say my LN low angle block plane is equivalent to a 7-iron. I also have the LN low angle jack with the toothed and 50-degree blades as well. I also got the hot dog for it, and I mainly use the jack as a shooting plane. That was the best addition for me.
Love the collection but at 1::55 I was amazed that statement on the 5 1/2 man that is all I have and all I will ever need sir Develop your skills around a few tools and master them they become part of you from the minute you hold the plane it's a matter of feel not sight Thank you for sharing always looking on God bless
I have a Woden no 4, a Stanley no 5 and a "piano makers" block plane. All of which I got of ebay for under £40 or way less and I spruced them up to perfection. I've tried out friends lie-nielson planes... quite honestly, not worth the money when you can get old and make new.
Depends on what kind of woodworking you're doing. For all hand tool work, jointer, fore, smoother, and router. For your type of work, where you use power tools for all the base work, you list is right. I probably wouldn't recommend people get a #4, though. I'd recommend they get a #4 through #5, depending on the person's size. I'm 6ft, and I can barely use a #4 because its too small for my hand.
Those are the 3 hand planes we started with as well, and we are barely breaking into the world of hand planes.Another great video, keep up the great work!
I’ve bought most of the other tools in my shop from buying rusty Stanley’s, restoring and then reselling them. Only takes a couple basic tools to get u started
As a wooden boat builder I find the light weight and more nimble nature of a No3 far easier to use than a No4. Also check out the Lie Neilson 102 for you apron block plane
Just recently bought a very well cared for #7 Anchor plane, and a #6 Canadian made Ideal plane , and an old #8 Fulton. These planes were beautifully kept, but as a beginner into hand planes they are beast to work with and will give you a good workout. As usual Jonathan Great video.
Personally the #4 is about the last plain I would get! I would get a #5 1/2 long before I would consider a #4. The 5 1/2 is a better all round plain and has the weight and length to be used on a shooting board where the #4 does not. Just my personal preferance, but I have little use for the #4.
For those of use who inherited or were given planes by a friend or neighbor... Tune them up and sharpen the blades but beware of the tool steel used to make the blades. They sharpen easily but get dull just as easy. I recommend getting an after market blade and chip breaker. Ron Hock is one maker, but there may be others. The blades are thicker and sturdier while the chip breaker will fit tightly on the blade. I have no regrets doing it to the Stanley #4 and #5 I inherited. When sharp they cruise through the wood making 1 to 2 thousands thick shavings.
Easy answer to the title question: All of them :-D I sorta lost count when the number of planes I own got into three digits (Hi, I'm Clyde and I have a planes problem...), but I'm lucky in that there are still good, inexpensive planes to be found in flea markets and auctions in my area. I have modern planes from Veritas and Lie-Nielsen, but I enjoy collecting, restoring and using the old ones.
Useful video. My first plane was as Chris Schwartz says "a tool shaped object", I upgraded to a Rider No.4 and felt the difference immediately, now just in the market for a "buy once" block plane and a workhorse jack plane
Great informative video on the different types of handplanes available for woodworkers. My latest addition is the Lie Nielsen smoother no 164 and I can only confirm your statement that this is a awesome handplane. I am convinced that it's gonna be used very often in my shop.
I’ve been following you to get my general skills up before restoring some fiddles. Tolerances of < 1/10th of a mm are a long way from the Ramsay courses I started doing woodworking with.
I will 100% agree with you on the LIE Nielsen low angle rabbeting block plane it was my second really nice plane I ever bought Aaron's I can't keep it out of my hands I'm always trying to figure something out just to use it it is amazing and absolutely beautiful
As a self taught guy who also had no money, I advise newer woodworkers to go for the veritas or lie Nielson. They ARE more expensive, but they are ready, teach you how a sharp, well tuned plane should FEEL, and they have the greatest of service(lie Nielson). If something happens to your tool, you send it to them and they fix it for free, FOR THE LIFE OF THE TOOL! This means that your son can do the same, and his son, etc. They ARE worth the money. That being said, my first plane was a sweetheart 5 1/4 that I restored, and it's still a Rockstar. But, it wasn't until I used a premium plane that really learned what I needed to adjust on the Stanley (slightly, for my first restoration I did an awesome job! Self pat on the back, lol)
Also, keep in mind what your time and frustration is worth. Restoring is something I enjoy, but it takes time, and when you're just learning, is frustrating. Is it worth the time to spend extra for a ready to use plane? These kinds of questions are individual, but for me, as a hand tool only, self taught guy, I wish I just shelled out the cash instead of buying Wood River (#5-feels cheap (not in bulk, but in use) and really doesn't perform as well as my restored plane, lots of slop in adjustment, etc.) And purchased a veritas or lie Nielson. I have a veritas #4 and 7, lie Nielson 60 1/2 and two spokeshaves, and those planes are a joy to use right from the package. I really don't like my Wood River, and at the time I didn't know it, but I'd rather support planes made in U.S. (or Canada if not U.S.) over planes made in China like Wood River.
interesting choice. I guess it really comes down to personal preference. Paul Sellers for example believes the block plane is pretty much a useless tool.
What's the best hand plane to try and collect thicker shaving strips? Id like to use the strips that are shaved off the wood. Is there a plane that can shave wood off in strips that are anywhere near 0.3mm-0.6mm thick?
Hi Jonathan, I'm new at working, and I have been learning as a hobby. So, apologize if this is a stupid question. But, what about electrical planers such as the DeWalt DC580B? Especially when something like the DW735X is out-of-budget.
In high school (2003) we had access to lei Nielsen tools. We had everything even the tongue and groove plane. I was seriously thinking about getting back into wood working. I saw the prices on the Nielsen website. Sadly most their tools are discontinued.
Great Video Jon, thanks for posting. I`m looking forward to the rest of the series. We have a company here in Canada called Busy Bee tools which is probably my favorite tool store. They have recently released a line of proffesional grade hand planes, intended to compete with brands like Lie Nielson and Veritas etc. For example thier jack plane is 200 dollars (Canadian) vs the Veritas low angle jack is 309 and the number 5 is 389. The claim is that the quality is comparable more attractive price point. I know it`s probably not likely but it would be super cool to get an unbiased review on one of these new planes to see if this juice is worth the squeeze. Great stuff as always. Thanks again.
I’m purchasing my first hand plane and was curious which of the following you would recommend: Woodstock Fox Shop D3831 vs Stanley Sweetheart No 60 1/2 vs Lie Nielsen No 102 vs WoodRiver Low Angle Block Plane
My Block plane and #5 are in my hand more than anything. #4 is in the back of a drawer and never sees the light of day. But, I gotta get a router plane, so many uses.
I have a wooden block 15" long X 2 1/2" wide X 1 1/2 high with a metal frame(saddle) with a large standard front ball handle & a full grip back handle. the blade is a 45 degrees & a brass horizontal adjustment. Also has a a side to side adjustment at the top, that moves left to right. Question is what kind of plane is it & will it clean up a table top made of constriction grade lumber? I am making an farmhouse table this summer for use in a wedding, my first table & they want a rustic look.
What’s your experience with wood river planes? Woodcraft sells 3-4 hand planes as a kit for what seems to be a reasonable deal compared to buying them separately.
This hand plane series came at a perfect, just bought a bunch of old planes that I refinished (using your video) and now I’m ready to learn how to put them to work
I would stick to: LN or Veritas low angle jack, LN or Veritas low angle smooth, 3 irons (25, 38, 50 degrees), low angle block plane, ***skew rabbeting block plane***, router plane, shoulder plane (that one you call rabbeting plane) and maybe a no7 old jointer with Veritas PM v11 blade and cap iron.
Just curious as to what you think of Record planes mostly sold in the UK I think. My friend has almost all their numbers and gets really good work from them!
An interesting video with some surprising revelations. I don't own a low angle plane, for instance, but I am looking hungrily at how much room it leaves for a decent sized handle - I have never been able to get used to the three finger grip of a smoothing plane. I share Jonathan's views on the block plane. I absolutely love my Stanley, but I think mine must have come out of Mexico and it took a lot of work to make it right. My target for sharpening is being able to plough directly into a sheet of photocopy/printer paper at 90°. I can't achieve that with my 8000 Extra Extra Fine DMT diamond sharpener. It needs a couple of minutes with buffing paste and Brasso on MDF, but I have discovered a shortcut. If you have a Dremel and some of those 25mm (ish) felt buffing wheels, they make short work of that final step, and get your blades sharper than I have ever been able to achieve any other way. In fact that's all I use to touch up my blades nowadays.
How important is quality when it comes to a block plane? Should I spend extra to get a Lie Nielson adjustable block plane or just get the shop fox one that is on this video's about section?
Beautiful collection great video i do admire how you deliver the information but I will say I've got a block plane a #3 and a Bailey #5/12 with a scrub blade/chip iron also regular blade/chip iron to interchange thank you for sharing bro God bless and be safe my blades will shave hairs
I bought some cheap ones to restore of the ones you suggested. I ended up with a Craftsman No.4 from the 1940s, a Stanley Victor No.7 and a Craftsman 220 block plane. I only managed to restore the No. 4 so far, but it doesn't seem to want to hold any adjustments to the blade. It shifts laterally while smoothing.
For anyone on a budget (95% of us?), Paul Sellars has a very cool video of making a router plane. He’s got a package of all the hardware, blade etc and a gorgeous design. I’m hoping to make one soon. JKM has fantastic advice and some awesom stuff as well
Just get a veritas or LN Stanley has no other blades for the LAJ so you will ending up buying another plane. Veritas has also 38 and 50 degree blades. For the block plane get a woodriver/quansheng/dictum/peaktool/luban as it's 99% the same. They always get good reviews. My choice is the rebate block plane with adjustable mouth. If they have a(free) sharpening service, use it as soon as you order it, the blade isn't really sharp.
Hey there.. Loved this video bro.. It's given me a load of information I wouldn't have been able to find out until I wasted a tonne a cash on these bad boys.. So I should begin with a Block and a #4 as a starting point.. I was on Rob Cosman's website of late and was shocked into leaving it bcos of the prices but now I'm slowly seeing that if I want good tools like these then I need to stump up the cash. My issue atm is I need to buy a Cast Iron top table saw and the one I'm getting is costing just over 2G's and these hand planes are a luxury I cannot afford atm. I need to be able to buy the saw or I won't be able to do the work I really want to without it looking terrible bro so these have to wait til sometime late in the year. I also have to get my Axminster Jointer/Thicknesser as well which with the larger band saws will also set me back another 3-4G's on top.. Man who knew woodworking could be so bloody expensive.. Anyways I really wanted to say how much I enjoyed this run down on hand planes bro.. Salute to u Sir..
Your videos are great man! I appreciate your no bs approach, your comprehensive dovetail video was especially helpful. Since you like collecting planes do you feel like buying a vintage Stanley 45 moulding plane? haha
Hey I really love your videos just starting out in woodworking. Really appreciate videos like this the wide variety of tools is confusing to me. Thank you for taking the time to explain things like this to noobs like me.
You got it bud. Honestly hand planes are all that neccessary for newbies. Get a good block plane and restore a number 4. See how much you actually use those before getting into hand planes
Sitting here with all this Christmas money.. I was just wondering Which hand plane should I buy.. And I'm back watching this video again lol! Got Love You Tube Academy :D
Thanks for the video! I found you gave a much better overview than pretty much all the other hand-plane comparison videos on youtube. Quality content! Now add in some japanese handplanes ;)
When using the Katz-Moses dovetail jig how do you not chew up the corner of the jig with the saw? I just use it and repeatedly add blue tape on that edge but it doens't stick so I'm always putting it on again. Great breakdown. I think it'd be important to talk about the path of buying planes at flea markets for cheap and just using them and only doing small cosmetic things like cleaning and wire wheel or scotchbrite/steelwhool after dropping it in vinegar. Then after you've got a block, 4, 5, and maybe a 7 you decide what and where you spend money. Chances are people watching already have a #4 or something in a box somewhere. I went that path and then I went down the rabbit hole with Veritas. :D
Watch my Comprehensive guide to cutting dovetails. You start your saw and bring the jig up to it. I assume you're putting the jig where you think it should go and sticking the saw to it which will cause it to scratch the jig. ALL saws have tooth set which means it'll scratch anything you put it against. Starting the saw first increases accuracy and will keep it from scratching the jig. also use horizontal strokes. Tilting the saw will cause you to have a bump in the middle of your cut and also potentially scratch the jig.
As usual, yet another really good informative video. Thank you. I have a question regarding the Lee Nielsen Rabbiting Block Plane ... you indicate that it can be difficult to sharpen the blade. Is this true even with a Tormak T-8 machine? Is it difficult to sharpen the blade when using a Tormak T-8?
Depending on condition $10-$120 (being all original and completely restored). Could be totally wrong but there’s not a lot of them that are super collectible. Look on eBay for references.
Do you know anything about the Metril IND Brad 2 plane? I have one that was being thrown away cleaned it up a little, would love to know what angle sharpen the blade too!
Jonathan I am new to planes, in fact I don’t have any but I would like to have some soon. After watching your video I was wondering what you thought about buying a rabbiting plane as my first plane? I know that is not what you recommended but most of my projects have mortise and tenon joints. As I grew frustrated with all the sanding I was doing to get joints just how I wanted, I googled that there was a plane specific for this purpose. For that reason I am thinking about making the rabbiting plane you spoke of or a Stanley 92 as my first plane purchase. What do you think?
Jonathan i'm seeing that the Veritas Jack Plane has the PM-V11 blade which i have heard is a very good blade. But the Lie Nielsen doesnt offer that. Can you use the PM blade on a Lie Nielsen and would it be a better choice? Thanks in advance.
LINKS TO PLANES DISCUSSED IN VIDEO
Stanley NO 62 Jack Plane: amzn.to/2OhpqI9 - $139
Lei Neilson NO 62 Jack Plane: bit.ly/2ULwXRW - $245
LOW ANGLE Block Plane I Use every day: amzn.to/2Fi1NLA - $82.99
Lei Nielsen RABETTING Block Plane: bit.ly/2YbP4CO - $175
INEXPENSIVE #7 JOINTER I Like: amzn.to/2TpIpBk - $88.95
RABBETINg 3 in 1 plane from Shop Fox: amzn.to/2YdYP3b - $73.76
Lei Nielsen Router Plane: bit.ly/2FrHe0g - $140
INEXPENSIVE Router Plane that gets the job done: amzn.to/2U3cdYN - $46.52
Lei Nielsen #164 Smoother (ridiculously awesome): bit.ly/2UUMjn6 - $265
INEXPENSIVE # 5 ½ that actually works pretty well: amzn.to/2U4jpnx - $48.94
Stanley #4 Smoother (not my favorite): amzn.to/2YaB38k - $109.27 plus $20 Shipping
I'm gonna take your advice and get the low angle block. But should I get the 1-3/8 or the 1-5/8 and what's the difference ? Thanks homeslice
@@adamtoth7474 the width
@@katzmosestools I guess I was trying to ask what are the differences in use? Or it just doesnt make a difference at this point?
@@adamtoth7474 just a matter of preference. Doesn't matter
May be a daft question, but have you got an apron plane? It's a low angle block plane that's literally designed to go in your apron pocket. Sounds like it would be an ideal addition for you.
When I retired I wanted to up my woodworking game so I splurged on a Veritas low angle jack plane. I'm still learning how to get the most from it but I was amazed at how quickly it put me ankle-deep in nearly transparent shavings, and how smooth a surface it left. What a joy to use.
You mentioned in passing the #5 from Grizzly is surprisingly good. I watched another video from a hand tool guy that said their #4 was also pretty good. At $30-40 each they seem to be a good option for beginners without too much “buy once cry once” pain where they can “earn” a better plane over time if they stick with the hobby and sharpen their skills.
I restored my Fathers old number 4 Stanley plane .....and now I have 7 planes! 😉 thanks for the advice👍
I love to refurbish planes- cheap or not cheap there's just nothing like taking a rusty old relic and though I may not make it look like brand new but they're smoother, softer to handle and sharper than when new when I'm done.
A few years ago my wife went to Woodcraft looking for a Christmas present for me. There was a strange looking plane that was marked down. “Well, he doesn’t have one like that.” So she bought it for me - after all it was marked down. It is a Lie-Nielsen L-N6. It is intended for use on a shooting board, I guess, at least that is what I use it for but it looks like an enormous block plane. Actually, I use it a lot for regular planing. It is just about my favorite plane. I don’t know why they quit making it. Maybe because Lie-Nielsen makes that super expensive shooting board plane now.
This is good advice. I have the LN 62, LN 64, LN #4, two LN block planes a LN #7. 10 LN altogether, I love them all.
I have watched a ton of woodworking videos these past few years and have subscribed to just about everybody's channel. If it wasn't for all the content all you guys put online, I wouldn't know where to begin. It's because of your collective knowledge, I am able to learn and make educated purchasing decisions without wasting money. It just so happens my first three planes were coincidentally purchased in the exact order you recommended. Veritas LA jack, then LN rabbeting block, then LN #4 bronze smoother. Again, thanks Jonathan for all your time and effort you put into these videos! They are very informative and encouraging as well!
Just started restoring a Stanley no 5 this morning. Got it for $10. Worth the time.
Strolling through the comments; how did the plane turn out?
I bought a Faithfull number 6 and then their number 7, both were brand new for under £100 for both. They work brilliantly
Thanks for the info. Been into woodworking most of my life and was raised by a old school carpenter of 50 years in the business. Now that I'm retired and have my time now, I'm torn between power and hand tools. I do enjoy the hand tools more but realize the place of power tools. Owning several hand planes now that are Stanley's but am at that point of biting the bullet for a little more quality. Again, thanks for the info and I'll check out more of your videos on this subject.
Your video quality is probably the best of the makers on TH-cam. Great stuff
I actually have 4 planes that I use for different situations. Starting with my smallest one, I have a Stanley shaping plane (it's like 3 inches long, it's honestly kind of adorable), a Stanley Bailey low angle block plane, an old Ace #4, and a *really* old Wards Master #6 jointing plane. The main reason I have the little one along with the bigger ones is because I plan on getting into lutherie, and I've been told that having a shaping plane is super useful for the kind of instruments I want to make.
In golf terms, I would say my LN low angle block plane is equivalent to a 7-iron. I also have the LN low angle jack with the toothed and 50-degree blades as well. I also got the hot dog for it, and I mainly use the jack as a shooting plane. That was the best addition for me.
Love the collection but at 1::55 I was amazed that statement on the 5 1/2 man that is all I have and all I will ever need sir
Develop your skills around a few tools and master them they become part of you from the minute you hold the plane it's a matter of feel not sight
Thank you for sharing always looking on God bless
I have a Woden no 4, a Stanley no 5 and a "piano makers" block plane. All of which I got of ebay for under £40 or way less and I spruced them up to perfection. I've tried out friends lie-nielson planes... quite honestly, not worth the money when you can get old and make new.
I highly recommend the Luban, Qiangsheng range. They are almost or even just as good as Veritas or Lie Neilsen.
This video is full of good advice.
Depends on what kind of woodworking you're doing. For all hand tool work, jointer, fore, smoother, and router. For your type of work, where you use power tools for all the base work, you list is right. I probably wouldn't recommend people get a #4, though. I'd recommend they get a #4 through #5, depending on the person's size. I'm 6ft, and I can barely use a #4 because its too small for my hand.
Those are the 3 hand planes we started with as well, and we are barely breaking into the world of hand planes.Another great video, keep up the great work!
I’ve bought most of the other tools in my shop from buying rusty Stanley’s, restoring and then reselling them. Only takes a couple basic tools to get u started
Brads Workbench I like that, might look into it. Would get me into restoring and creating, nice.
@@elbronzmusic cant hurt
As a wooden boat builder I find the light weight and more nimble nature of a No3 far easier to use than a No4. Also check out the Lie Neilson 102 for you apron block plane
Just recently bought a very well cared for #7 Anchor plane, and a #6 Canadian made Ideal plane , and an old #8 Fulton. These planes were beautifully kept, but as a beginner into hand planes they are beast to work with and will give you a good workout. As usual Jonathan Great video.
Personally the #4 is about the last plain I would get! I would get a #5 1/2 long before I would consider a #4. The 5 1/2 is a better all round plain and has the weight and length to be used on a shooting board where the #4 does not. Just my personal preferance, but I have little use for the #4.
I agree but #4 are much easier to find and about 1/3 of the cost.
For those of use who inherited or were given planes by a friend or neighbor... Tune them up and sharpen the blades but beware of the tool steel used to make the blades. They sharpen easily but get dull just as easy. I recommend getting an after market blade and chip breaker. Ron Hock is one maker, but there may be others. The blades are thicker and sturdier while the chip breaker will fit tightly on the blade. I have no regrets doing it to the Stanley #4 and #5 I inherited. When sharp they cruise through the wood making 1 to 2 thousands thick shavings.
Great idea
Good advice.
Easy answer to the title question: All of them :-D I sorta lost count when the number of planes I own got into three digits (Hi, I'm Clyde and I have a planes problem...), but I'm lucky in that there are still good, inexpensive planes to be found in flea markets and auctions in my area. I have modern planes from Veritas and Lie-Nielsen, but I enjoy collecting, restoring and using the old ones.
Hearing this tough and rugged man say the words “super cute” is delightful.
Useful video. My first plane was as Chris Schwartz says "a tool shaped object", I upgraded to a Rider No.4 and felt the difference immediately, now just in the market for a "buy once" block plane and a workhorse jack plane
You might also check out wood river planes. They have been a great tool in my shop.
I have a wonderful collection of Holtey Planes. But to be honest you can fettle any plane to work really well.
Great video as always. I started with a 5 1/2. It's a bit heavy at times. Totally agree with the Lie-Nirlson rabbet plane
Great informative video on the different types of handplanes available for woodworkers.
My latest addition is the Lie Nielsen smoother no 164 and I can only confirm your statement that this is a awesome handplane.
I am convinced that it's gonna be used very often in my shop.
I’ve been following you to get my general skills up before restoring some fiddles. Tolerances of < 1/10th of a mm are a long way from the Ramsay courses I started doing woodworking with.
I will 100% agree with you on the LIE Nielsen low angle rabbeting block plane it was my second really nice plane I ever bought Aaron's I can't keep it out of my hands I'm always trying to figure something out just to use it it is amazing and absolutely beautiful
As a self taught guy who also had no money, I advise newer woodworkers to go for the veritas or lie Nielson. They ARE more expensive, but they are ready, teach you how a sharp, well tuned plane should FEEL, and they have the greatest of service(lie Nielson). If something happens to your tool, you send it to them and they fix it for free, FOR THE LIFE OF THE TOOL! This means that your son can do the same, and his son, etc. They ARE worth the money. That being said, my first plane was a sweetheart 5 1/4 that I restored, and it's still a Rockstar. But, it wasn't until I used a premium plane that really learned what I needed to adjust on the Stanley (slightly, for my first restoration I did an awesome job! Self pat on the back, lol)
Also, keep in mind what your time and frustration is worth. Restoring is something I enjoy, but it takes time, and when you're just learning, is frustrating. Is it worth the time to spend extra for a ready to use plane? These kinds of questions are individual, but for me, as a hand tool only, self taught guy, I wish I just shelled out the cash instead of buying Wood River (#5-feels cheap (not in bulk, but in use) and really doesn't perform as well as my restored plane, lots of slop in adjustment, etc.) And purchased a veritas or lie Nielson. I have a veritas #4 and 7, lie Nielson 60 1/2 and two spokeshaves, and those planes are a joy to use right from the package. I really don't like my Wood River, and at the time I didn't know it, but I'd rather support planes made in U.S. (or Canada if not U.S.) over planes made in China like Wood River.
Hey brother I thank you for the info. I to love the planes and have many,expensive ones and average one. But I use them and enjoy those shavings !
I want to make the 1 1/2" edge of some 2x4 studs flat. Lose the rounded edges. What plane should I use? I have a Stanley #4 now.
interesting choice. I guess it really comes down to personal preference. Paul Sellers for example believes the block plane is pretty much a useless tool.
I bought a block plane and I think the other is a number 5 they are cobalt from the blue box store I've used em several times with sucess
What's the best hand plane to try and collect thicker shaving strips? Id like to use the strips that are shaved off the wood. Is there a plane that can shave wood off in strips that are anywhere near 0.3mm-0.6mm thick?
Johnathan can I ask what hand plane would be best to plane a 2.4 meter length of wood and some of them have a bow and twist in them many thanks steve
Great work. I just bought bench dog #4 and block planes. Thanks for this I made the right choice for my first planes.
I have the LN rabbiting block plane, love it !
Hi Jonathan,
I'm new at working, and I have been learning as a hobby.
So, apologize if this is a stupid question.
But, what about electrical planers such as the DeWalt DC580B?
Especially when something like the DW735X is out-of-budget.
In high school (2003) we had access to lei Nielsen tools. We had everything even the tongue and groove plane. I was seriously thinking about getting back into wood working. I saw the prices on the Nielsen website. Sadly most their tools are discontinued.
Great Video Jon, thanks for posting. I`m looking forward to the rest of the series. We have a company here in Canada called Busy Bee tools which is probably my favorite tool store. They have recently released a line of proffesional grade hand planes, intended to compete with brands like Lie Nielson and Veritas etc. For example thier jack plane is 200 dollars (Canadian) vs the Veritas low angle jack is 309 and the number 5 is 389. The claim is that the quality is comparable more attractive price point. I know it`s probably not likely but it would be super cool to get an unbiased review on one of these new planes to see if this juice is worth the squeeze. Great stuff as always. Thanks again.
I’m purchasing my first hand plane and was curious which of the following you would recommend: Woodstock Fox Shop D3831 vs Stanley Sweetheart No 60 1/2 vs Lie Nielsen No 102 vs WoodRiver Low Angle Block Plane
My most used plane is the mini block plane to break edges.
My Block plane and #5 are in my hand more than anything. #4 is in the back of a drawer and never sees the light of day. But, I gotta get a router plane, so many uses.
Ive been seeing a lot about Japanese block planes. Would this be a good low budget starter plane?
A 5 1/2 jack and a block are ALL you need to start.
which one would make veneer strips the best? I want to make guitar picks.
Hi Jonathan, Pros and Cons of each plane nicely explained in plain English. Thank you. Cheers, Huw
I have a wooden block 15" long X 2 1/2" wide X 1 1/2 high with a metal frame(saddle) with a large standard front ball handle & a full grip back handle. the blade is a 45 degrees & a brass horizontal adjustment. Also has a a side to side adjustment at the top, that moves left to right.
Question is what kind of plane is it & will it clean up a table top made of constriction grade lumber? I am making an farmhouse table this summer for use in a wedding, my first table & they want a rustic look.
I love my LN router plane. It's an enormously useful shop tool and I keep finding new uses for it.
Pro tip - Just head into Lee Valley and ask for one of everything #youtubemoney
I’d settle for the Veritas plane starter set. Grab it for me next time you go?
Have you ever come across or used a Siegley plane?
What’s your experience with wood river planes? Woodcraft sells 3-4 hand planes as a kit for what seems to be a reasonable deal compared to buying them separately.
This hand plane series came at a perfect, just bought a bunch of old planes that I refinished (using your video) and now I’m ready to learn how to put them to work
I would stick to: LN or Veritas low angle jack, LN or Veritas low angle smooth, 3 irons (25, 38, 50 degrees), low angle block plane, ***skew rabbeting block plane***, router plane, shoulder plane (that one you call rabbeting plane) and maybe a no7 old jointer with Veritas PM v11 blade and cap iron.
I would never buy a bevel down No.4. Just buy a dedicated scrub plane with think iron.
just don't buy shopfox or stanley sweetheart...
Just curious as to what you think of Record planes mostly sold in the UK I think. My friend has almost all their numbers and gets really good work from them!
An interesting video with some surprising revelations. I don't own a low angle plane, for instance, but I am looking hungrily at how much room it leaves for a decent sized handle - I have never been able to get used to the three finger grip of a smoothing plane. I share Jonathan's views on the block plane. I absolutely love my Stanley, but I think mine must have come out of Mexico and it took a lot of work to make it right. My target for sharpening is being able to plough directly into a sheet of photocopy/printer paper at 90°. I can't achieve that with my 8000 Extra Extra Fine DMT diamond sharpener. It needs a couple of minutes with buffing paste and Brasso on MDF, but I have discovered a shortcut. If you have a Dremel and some of those 25mm (ish) felt buffing wheels, they make short work of that final step, and get your blades sharper than I have ever been able to achieve any other way. In fact that's all I use to touch up my blades nowadays.
What polishing compound do you use on those Dremel feltpads?
Jonathan, what is your opinion on using electronic planes?
How important is quality when it comes to a block plane? Should I spend extra to get a Lie Nielson adjustable block plane or just get the shop fox one that is on this video's about section?
Beautiful collection great video i do admire how you deliver the information but I will say I've got a block plane a #3 and a Bailey #5/12 with a scrub blade/chip iron also regular blade/chip iron to interchange thank you for sharing bro God bless and be safe my blades will shave hairs
Are standard planes really sharpened at 25 degrees? 45 plus 25 gives a 70 degree cut angle, that seems high to me.
I bought some cheap ones to restore of the ones you suggested. I ended up with a Craftsman No.4 from the 1940s, a Stanley Victor No.7 and a Craftsman 220 block plane. I only managed to restore the No. 4 so far, but it doesn't seem to want to hold any adjustments to the blade. It shifts laterally while smoothing.
Broken lateral adjustment, blades inserted incorrectly, or lever cap not tight enough
@@katzmosestools might be the lever cap. I'll try that! Thanks!
Really great vid! I am searching for a Stanley #3 or #4 type 12 with large adjustment knob in really great condition...vintage!
Flat planne or corrugated plane? I don't know the difference
Nice discussion, thanks for sharing it Jonathan...
Which one you would buy to plane down a piece of (kinda fragile) maple burl 5mm down to 3mm thick?
Good video I have a question I'm about to buy a hand planer n°.4, I'm between bench dog and stanley which for you is better
What would you use to flatten out a large slab of sweet gum wood? I have an 8foot by 2foot slab to flatten then sand smooth
For anyone on a budget (95% of us?), Paul Sellars has a very cool video of making a router plane. He’s got a package of all the hardware, blade etc and a gorgeous design. I’m hoping to make one soon. JKM has fantastic advice and some awesom stuff as well
Just get a veritas or LN
Stanley has no other blades for the LAJ so you will ending up buying another plane.
Veritas has also 38 and 50 degree blades.
For the block plane get a woodriver/quansheng/dictum/peaktool/luban as it's 99% the same. They always get good reviews.
My choice is the rebate block plane with adjustable mouth.
If they have a(free) sharpening service, use it as soon as you order it, the blade isn't really sharp.
When you've sent him a No1 would you send me one too!
Just bought my first plane on eBay. Its a union plane co #5. Paid 28 bucks plus shipping.
Hey there.. Loved this video bro.. It's given me a load of information I wouldn't have been able to find out until I wasted a tonne a cash on these bad boys..
So I should begin with a Block and a #4 as a starting point.. I was on Rob Cosman's website of late and was shocked into leaving it bcos of the prices but now I'm slowly seeing that if I want good tools like these then I need to stump up the cash.
My issue atm is I need to buy a Cast Iron top table saw and the one I'm getting is costing just over 2G's and these hand planes are a luxury I cannot afford atm.
I need to be able to buy the saw or I won't be able to do the work I really want to without it looking terrible bro so these have to wait til sometime late in the year. I also have to get my Axminster Jointer/Thicknesser as well which with the larger band saws will also set me back another 3-4G's on top.. Man who knew woodworking could be so bloody expensive..
Anyways I really wanted to say how much I enjoyed this run down on hand planes bro.. Salute to u Sir..
Your videos are great man! I appreciate your no bs approach, your comprehensive dovetail video was especially helpful. Since you like collecting planes do you feel like buying a vintage Stanley 45 moulding plane? haha
Hey I really love your videos just starting out in woodworking. Really appreciate videos like this the wide variety of tools is confusing to me. Thank you for taking the time to explain things like this to noobs like me.
You got it bud. Honestly hand planes are all that neccessary for newbies. Get a good block plane and restore a number 4. See how much you actually use those before getting into hand planes
I buy pretty much every one in decent (or at least restorable) condition that I come across. I can't tell you how many No 5 sized planes I have.
Do u every sale or trade any
Sitting here with all this Christmas money.. I was just wondering Which hand plane should I buy.. And I'm back watching this video again lol! Got Love You Tube Academy :D
Do you have an opinion on the Veritas Jack Rabbet? It looks very versatile with the ability to potentially take the place of a few planes.
Your thoughts on plough planes?
Thanks for the video! I found you gave a much better overview than pretty much all the other hand-plane comparison videos on youtube. Quality content!
Now add in some japanese handplanes ;)
When using the Katz-Moses dovetail jig how do you not chew up the corner of the jig with the saw? I just use it and repeatedly add blue tape on that edge but it doens't stick so I'm always putting it on again.
Great breakdown. I think it'd be important to talk about the path of buying planes at flea markets for cheap and just using them and only doing small cosmetic things like cleaning and wire wheel or scotchbrite/steelwhool after dropping it in vinegar. Then after you've got a block, 4, 5, and maybe a 7 you decide what and where you spend money. Chances are people watching already have a #4 or something in a box somewhere. I went that path and then I went down the rabbit hole with Veritas. :D
Watch my Comprehensive guide to cutting dovetails. You start your saw and bring the jig up to it. I assume you're putting the jig where you think it should go and sticking the saw to it which will cause it to scratch the jig. ALL saws have tooth set which means it'll scratch anything you put it against. Starting the saw first increases accuracy and will keep it from scratching the jig. also use horizontal strokes. Tilting the saw will cause you to have a bump in the middle of your cut and also potentially scratch the jig.
As usual, yet another really good informative video. Thank you. I have a question regarding the Lee Nielsen Rabbiting Block Plane ... you indicate that it can be difficult to sharpen the blade. Is this true even with a Tormak T-8 machine? Is it difficult to sharpen the blade when using a Tormak T-8?
Great video as always. You are the man!
Woodriver makes a damn nice plane !
Hi Jonathan. I have a Stanley Bailey Type 2 Hand Plane from 1869-1872. I can't seem to find a rough value. Do you have any idea? Thank you.
Depending on condition $10-$120 (being all original and completely restored). Could be totally wrong but there’s not a lot of them that are super collectible. Look on eBay for references.
@@katzmosestools Thank you!
First 2 planes I bought 5 1/2 best all around plane can be used with a shooting board, then a low angle block...no need for a #4
disagree but you seem to be the majority
Maybe it's because you don't have a quality 5 1/2! 😊
Great breakdown, as the hand plane world can get a bit overwhelming for newbies. Well done sir.
I noticed that you didn’t talk about the Japanese hand plane in the back.
Do you know anything about the Metril IND Brad 2 plane? I have one that was being thrown away cleaned it up a little, would love to know what angle sharpen the blade too!
Great video man. Thanks for all the info. What type of plane would recommend using for flattening a large table top?
For my first plane I would get a #5 or 5 1/2.
Jonathan
I am new to planes, in fact I don’t have any but I would like to have some soon. After watching your video I was wondering what you thought about buying a rabbiting plane as my first plane? I know that is not what you recommended but most of my projects have mortise and tenon joints. As I grew frustrated with all the sanding I was doing to get joints just how I wanted, I googled that there was a plane specific for this purpose. For that reason I am thinking about making the rabbiting plane you spoke of or a Stanley 92 as my first plane purchase. What do you think?
Great idea bud. You'll love it
Jonathan i'm seeing that the Veritas Jack Plane has the PM-V11 blade which i have heard is a very good blade. But the Lie Nielsen doesnt offer that. Can you use the PM blade on a Lie Nielsen and would it be a better choice? Thanks in advance.
They're both fantastic with great steel. Ferrari vs Lamborghini. Don't make it complicated just get one
Nice job, thanks for the video, keep up the good work. Hope to see the maker station in person someday.
Do you use your vertitas sharpening jig for your planes? Thank you for spreading your knowledge!
I see many youtube woodworkers owning the lie-nielsen rabbeting block plane.i wanna get it but I have no idea where to get it in canada.