I've been a cabinet maker for 30plus years, and I've bought brand new Stanley (made in England) as well as old Stanleys and Records. I've also bought new Veritas and Lie Nielson as well as second-hand ones. I love every one of them.
I'm completely new to woodworking, about 3 months experience. I know I want to work with hand tools and so far I have gotten 4 pre 1950's Stanley's, a 4, 5, 6 and a Handyman. It was frustrating but after a few weeks i got them all figured out, tuned up and now shavings fly out of the mouth. It was so satisfying learning how to clean them, set them up and then fine tune them. I have access to free oak pallets, 6ft long 4inch wide and 1inch thick, so that is what I used to practice and learn. I enjoyed the video, as well as the couple others i have seen of yours so far, will dig into more of your back catalogue. Thanks for the videos.
I never "got" hand planes until someone let me use a well tuned and VERY sharp one. Since then, I've refurbished many Stanleys, but over the years I've been replacing (ok, augmenting) them with LN which are far superior. All that to say that I agree with your approach of using inexpensive planes until you can afford something better. Cheers!
Not just afford them, but to really understand how to use them and how to get the delta between a decent one and a "good" one to really matter. Putting a new driver in a sports car is never going to really show the car's potential. :)
@@ChrisHornberger I don't have any large hand planes, just a couple of vintage block planes my grandpa owned. I am looking to get a vintage Stanley No 4, with the goal of cleaning it up and actually using it. I feel like every woodworker should have one, to get an appreciation for a Veritas or Lie Neilsen, which are long term goals.
Another inspiring video - Thanks Erik. I’ve gone down the old plane route. One aspect of that route is the pure joy in bringing life back to an item that has been left to decay, and then using it as it was intended to be used. Keep up the great videos. Ken, Southport UK.
My first two planes were a Stanley #4 and a Record #5 off eBay. Tuned them up and they work great. I use them all the time. My next plane was a Veritas low angle block plane. I love it. My next will likely be a Veritas low angle jack plane for an all round shooting board plane.
My only criticism of your video concerns the background music and it's only because I'm an old, deaf Vietnam veteran who has to wear hearing aids and that makes streaming difficult when there is background music to contend with. Thanks Erik. I wish I could afford a Lie-Nielsen hand plane, but my Wood Rivers will have to suffice for me.
Great video! The TH-cam algo put you in front of me and this was exactly the video I needed to see. I'm new to hand planes. Literally just purchased my first two old/refurbished Stanleys for under $150 like you mentioned. It made sense to me to be able buy 2 old/refurb planes for the same price as one brand new one. It enabled me to afford a couple sharpening stones - which seemed essential. I had glass and sand paper, but wanted the longevity of stones. I enjoyed your approach and common sense info - I'm a new sub!
I’ve got my great grandfather’s Stanley #4. I will never get rid of it but I never use it. I don’t know if it’s pre 1950 but I did a lot of work on it; getting it flat, getting the blade sharp, getting the frog adjusted. I consider myself mechanical but that plane just hates me. I have a modern #6 with a thicker better blade and easier frog adjustment and I never think about using the old Stanley on a piece of wood. I know the thing that really matters is the edge of the blade that touches the wood but dialing in the opening of the mouth makes a big difference too. So I buy once and cry once. One day I hope to have a nice shop where I can display the old Stanley. Anyway, thank you for your videos. I’m a fan!
I started with some not so great post WWII Stanley's. I just didn't find them at all satisfying despite watching many videos of how to "tune" them. I bought a Veritas low angle jack plane and that was a game changer for me! Along the way I learned how to sharpen properly. Then I was given an old tool box with a few Stanley type 10's and 11's and I restored them. Now a Stanley no 6 type 10 is my very favorite plane. It sings! Such a wonderful tool to use! I also have a few of the smaller Lie Nielsen planes and they are amazing. It took a long time for me to understand why people love the vintage Stanley's.
I just love that planing sound.. I sometimes need to stop myself planing a piece that's good and done just because I'm enjoying the feel and sound of a perfectly tuned and sharpened plane too much 😂
Smiled at your comment about the sapwood. I have a No. 4 that was my grandfather’s - Type 14 (IIRC, ~1931-32). It’s very similar to yours, but the sapwood portion is even lighter. I have to say that I’ve always thought it was a little odd, but the way you talked about it completely changed my perspective. 😊 BTW, this No. 4 has a laminated iron, which I don’t see discussed very often. I’d be interested in any comments you have if you’ve owned an older Stanley with a laminated iron.
Erik, thanks for this video! I love your style. I know you've done it 1000 time for the lie Nielsen demos, but I'd personally love to see your version of setting up one of these planes. I greatly appreciate your videos. Thanks!
Thanks Erik, a good balanced overview ! We're very fortunate here in the UK there are plenty of old Stanleys, Records etc, all of my planes came from E-bay for between £15 & £50 and once tuned and sharpened can do anything an expensive new one can ! What people forget is that even these planes were expensive in their time that's why cheap modern ones are so poor !
Love your stuff! Sage advice for new woodworkers, and informative without being a fanboy of one method or product over another. I have almost exclusively (minus my 30 year old block plane) either old Stanley or a bit more current German wooden bodied planes (Ulmia etc.). I tend to use power tools, but when the work needs detail I bring out the planes and hand routers. I also hate to sand (don't we all), so planes and scrapers save a LOT of hassle for me.
Man, all I own are 100 year old planes lol, I can't justify spending crazy amounts of hard earned cash on a new one, and I love finding antique Stanley at yard sales when the owner has no idea what he/she has, then the satisfaction of restoring them and using them is so awesome.
I used to do the same, on the weekends I would travel to the fleA market, antique stores and yard sales. used to find a lot of great deals, but honestly when you think about the gas and time of it all, I bet sitting at your computer buying one on eBay would cost less. but you lose the experience of the chase for Sure
I have both the Veritas low angle jack and the Lie Nielson. I also have my grandfather's Stanleys that are over 100 years old. They still work just fine.
The open secret is dont jump around. Pick a method and just stick to it for a year, you will find everything starts getting very sharp. Second is always turn a burr. That means you got zero intersect that is a sharp edge. Stone, sand paper, lapping compound diamond, it all works the same way.
@@ehisey I’ve stuck with a cheap set of diamond plates, but have been frustrated with the results… I question if it’s me and my inexperience, the cheap chisels or irons, the cheap plates, or a combination lol… I did just get a honing jig, so that has helped a little. I’m just very interested on everyone else’s methods
@@darodes that is the hardest part, the need to just practice. I have found that each tool has to go through a training period before it really takes an edge each time. When you have mastered a method, the initialization of the tool when you get takes care of it, before that itis lots of sharpening. What kind of issues are you having?
@@ehisey maybe it’s because I just picked up a hand plane and chisels last year with zero experience, and I don’t know what sharp is “supposed” to feel like… also don’t know if I should temper my expectations with cheaper tools too.
My first plane was a Stanley No. 5 with cracked handle. When building a Moravian bench with a laminated Southern Yellow pine top I was going to use a router sled to flatten. I looked at my No. 5 and said "I am going to give it a go". I put an edge on the blade and went at it, it was one of the best workouts I ever had. The top came out super flat and from that moment I realized I was going to be a hand tool wood worker.
Sweet video and demonstration of your fleet……that little LN 102 Jen engraved is my favorite too. I always look for it in your backdrop when you are in front of it, but never see it……till now I see what shelf it lives on. 😀 Enjoy your day Eric, eager to see that beautiful door hung too.
A few years ago I had a chance to buy dozens of pre-war hand planes from a collector. I found that I could tune up most of them, but out of the 100+ different planes, there were only a handful that are, for whatever reason, perfect. All the rest are just ok.
10:00 So which is it, ready to use right out of the box or you need to sharpen it up a little bit ? From what I hear all planes need to be tuned before use. I have 4 planes, all used, and do what I need them to. Maybe some day I’ll be able to try out a high end one.
11:45 All planes and chisels (and woodturning gouges) regularly need to be sharpened anyway, so sharp out of the box is a non-issue. Even if a plane is sharp out of the box, that only lasts a short time before it will need to be re-sharpened. Sharp out of the box should not even be a consideration.
In my journey to learn how to use hand planes, some where a while ago, I figures out how important it is to get a junk plane and learn how to fine tune it. Everything from taking it apart, checking blade sides and nose for square, cleaning the surfaces and filing down where needed, and putting it back together. You can learn a whole lot from doing this. Picked up a newer Stanley 4 1/2 and it still had factory paint on it. Took a month of fussing around with it to get it so it finally cut the way I wanted it to....
@@robohippy I would have given up way before you finished. But I did spend a lot of time working on my old plane and never got it working the way it should. I bought a thicker blade for it but then the adjuster thing couldn’t reach the slot. Also, there are two types of frogs. My old Stanley has the one that you can only adjust if the blade is removed which is a lot of work. My new plane I can adjust the frog with the blade attached. Anyway I’m happy with my new plane and don’t ever plan to refurbish another old plane. I know a lot of guys have several different sizes. I only use my #6. The length and weight are really good for making flat cuts. I also have a block plane and a shoulder plane but most of the work I do is with the #6
@@donesry2902 I would bet that if you took that plane to some one who really knows how to refurbish them, they could take one look and say "Oh, just do this" and then you would palm smack your forehead and say "Why didn't I think of that?" I am persistent about things and that was how long it took me to figure it out. I did ask a friend and he made a couple of suggestions, and one of them worked.
The plane that I spent a month on trying to figure out why it wouldn't cut, I finally figured out the mounting spot for the frog had a sizeable hump in it, and I figured out how to flatten that out. Now, it cuts well, I have some old metal planes, and I may get the thicker blades for them. This may require a new screw for the lever cap. That would involve a search for the same thread size and pitch, then buy a new screw and cut it to size. Not too difficult....
I love my Stanley number 5 but In Canada at least where I am the price for old Stanleys is bordering on the ridiculous to the point where you can get a new Veritas for only a few dollars more. Living where i do Lee Valley is 10 minutes away so I don’t have to pay shipping, exchange etc which is why the prices are closer than you would think. Great video as always.
Nice video. My one disagreement is regarding the blades that come with the old Stanleys. Replacing them with Hock blades is a massive and relatively inexpensive upgrade. Even razor sharp I don't think the old blades compare well with Hock blades...
Mr. Curtis, 2 questions. One, and I am not sure if this was the video where you commented about it, but you said you didn't like the Wood River planes. I am curious as to what you didn't like about them. I don't care for the handle snice that bump near the base hits a pressure point on the heel of my palm so that is uncomfortable for me. Other than that, it seems to be fine quality. The other question is what about the Japanese style pull planes? I am playing with some, and hope to make some, but I do like them. Fine tuning them takes a bit to learn.... I do like the metal, and still learning to sharpen them. I guess for that matter, how about the western style push planes?
I'd recommend people make a krenov style or Vic Tesolin style with a semi cheap iron. Teaches you a lot about what you're going for when you use a metal plane.
I’ve got a few vintage planes which I’ve setup and sharpened. The unmatchable joy of using a 125 year old Stanley #7 to make a board smooth as baby’s butt is worth every hour of cleaning, tuning, and sharpening….and it was many hours 😂
Thank you for the nice video with lots of info. I was given a HAND PLANE . It appears to be old (objective of course) The only marking i can see is MADE IN USA below the wheel. Any idea what brand this could be ?? Thank you
That's the same reason for finding older hand planes cheap. People bought them, tried to use them, but never set them up, got disgusted and tossed them in a draw, never to be seen again, until the garage sale when I buy them.
What a helpful and informative video-thank you! Out of curiosity, do you still teach people how to use hand tools? I ask as a brand-new learner located somewhat near the previous employer you referenced.
Thanks for another excellent video. Do you have anything you can share for a total newbie to sharpening? I bought a low-angle block plane, a set of chisels, and whetstones ... and now I need to figure out how to start. :)
I’m planning to do a sharpening video soon(ish). I’ll show you my entire system and talk about my past systems in that video. For now, I would say get yourself a guide and sharpen at 30-35 degrees to make life simple and easy as possible.
@@ENCurtis using a guide is excellent advise. To be honest I'd say grinding the primary bevel is pretty much essential too. If you're grinding the primary bevel you don't have to hone much at all which saves on time, effort and honing supplies. I only use a 1,000 grit diamond plate to hone on. After that I polish and go.
Wonderful intro to planes. They are indeed among my most important and loved tools. I have a suggestion, take it or leave, but it would be great if you would take it, or maybe point me/us in the right direction. I have a Lie Nielsen #4. Gorgeous plane. I cannot for the life of me get the blade extended beyond the mouth enough to take a full, clean shaving. If I extended it enough, it hits the front of the mouth. If I move the frog back a bit I cannot extended the blade enough. It is maddening! I have other planes that work wonderfully. There is something about the geometry that I'm missing. I want to love this plane, but I can't until I get it figured out. Help? Please? By the way, even if you cannot help, keep up the great content.
Glad you enjoyed the video. And sorry to hear about that frustrating situation! Without getting my hands on the tool to see what’s happening it’s hard to advise, but you can always call lie Nielsen and speak with someone at length about the issue. And if it can’t be resolved over the phone you can send it in for a free repair or adjustment.
I'm a weekend woodworker (not every weekend) and DIYer. I have the opportunity to get a modern Stanley No. 62 SweetHeart Low Angle Jack Plane and the Stanley No. 60-1/2 SweetHeart Low Angle Block Plane for around $125 for both, new. I understand that they're not the best out there and I'm sure i'll have to do some tuning, which I'm not opposed to, but would those be a great buy for my occasional use and for the price I can get both combined? These would also be my first two hand planes.
At 2:00 it is important not to have the blade square, if shaving a flat surface, but to have the cutting edge parralell / square to the bottom of the plane!
You're probably picking nits; that's essentially how I think most people take it. I've always known that "having the blade square" means taking a flat cut, regardless of where the lateral adjuster points the whole blade. ** shrug **
I'm new to woodworking and I wanted to use a hand plane but I didn't know what to buy and didn't want to spend much on it, since I still don't know how much I like the hobby. I bought a Kobalt hand plane from Lowes. I did kind of enjoy planing with it, but it would gouge the wood in places and I would often end up with the work piece thinner around the edges. I never tried to sharpen it. Just the honing blocks sound expensive to me. Would honing it make much difference, or is a Kobalt plane just garbage?
I need to see what mine is.. it’s in great shape it needs a new handle as it is cracked.. but for $10 and I’ve been looking for one in decent hope it’s good. lol I found some in worse shape for $30
I agree with most of the video, however beginners are unlikely to understand how to get a vintage handplane up and runnning correctly. Its more than simple understanding what needs to be corrected, its the understanding of what a tuned plane really feels like. Getting a contemporary plane will more likely lead to a pleasant experience than a vintage one for the beginner.
Spending a lot of money doest make you a better wood worker . The guy on epic upscaling does some of the coolest wood working on you tube with a chisel hand saw and ball peen hammer. Blows all the boutique boys away
What recommendations for someone that wants to elevate their woodworking but not invest in a power planer...ie the 735x DeWalt. Is a #5 jack plane sufficient?
I've had most of my old Record and Stanley planes for over fifty years and have worn out several blades on them and they work every bit as good as the new kids on the block but my planes just feel so much better in my hands. I guess the totes have worn to fit my hands over the years and I have made new totes for some of them which are so much more comfortable than the new ones. I have used the LNs and the Vs and the BCs of this world and I just do not see the need to spend lots of money on 'pretty' tools when the old ones work perfectly well. I would rather spend money on beautiful wood.
I do agree totally. If you’re Stanley’s are singing sweetly, use them well and lovingly. Spend the money on lumber. They were fantastic tools then and remain fantastic tools now.
I (think) I am at 50 planes and counting about 1/3 are modern and 1/3 collectors and 1/3 users. They are all good, but also all eventually need tuning. Just remember that the time you spend on most old rust buckets is going to be FAR more expensive than just to buy a new plane (no matter wha your job is). Ideally you buy a tuned (almost tuned) used plane. The caveat is that you don't know what you are looking at unless you have owned a crapload of them. I think any Baileys from type 9 to 12 are probably the best you can do - 11 being the most pleasant to look at despite the small adjuster. If you can live with a heavier tool, the Woden & older Records will do better final work with a thicker heavier base.
I'm 57 just retired and getting into wood working ,watching some videos to learn a little more about hand plains, one thing im looking to know is the sizes witch sizes to get , why so many different sizes ,witch one I need, what dose one size do that a different size can't or can do,. can you make a video about that ,,,thanks
What is the tool your using to sharpen the blades? Not the stone. I just found your channel today through the Shaper Orgin, debating on getting one. Found this video, just so I was giving a couple of Lie Neilson and Veritas planes, scared to use them, don’t want to ruin them, I don’t know how to adjust them. Also, I didn’t know the blade had to be sharpen! Thank you!
And for the record, there is nothing wrong with the ruler trick. Helpful to hone the back of the blade close to the edge. Just don’t do it on your chisels.
The ones post 1960 aren't that bad. They are better than their modern counterparts, for sure. The trouble is the post 1960 tools do need a little love and care to run as well as a pre 1960 tool. It should be kept in mind that a lot of those old pre1960 planes were handled and whittled by people who wanted the best out of their tools for the sake of their career, so they run well because they were handled by woodworkers who made them so. You can make a post 1960 tool run as well as their forebears, and for a beginner I think it's a good learning curve to understand.
Nice video. Question: Why does every woodworker use softwood pine to demonstrate the sharpness of their hand planes? Most woodworkers are using hardwood for projects. Why not compare apples to apples?
The difference between new and old for a beginner is that the beginner lacks the experience to know how to “choose wisely.” I submit that a beginner should buy a new, GOOD QUALITY plane and learn the basics. Then, after learning those basics, not being hampered by possible problems with an old plane, the woodworker can now begin collecting older planes with the experience to know what to buy and what to stay away from. By the way, WoodRiver makes excellent quality planes for less than Lie-Nielsen and Veritas. A good choice for a novice at a fair price.
To "win" an argument on the internet, I tuned up a sheet metal (rather than cast iron) PEXTO plane, widely considered useless, the reality is that it works beautiful, although still using it to see how well the paper thin blade holds up.
Another route is buying one of the new planes that cost less than the old ones. There's certainly going to be more setup than the high end new brands, but maybe less than the old ones. Generally I think you have to spend either time or money, so which do you have more of?
I would use any hand plane, just adjust it, work it. All the same 50 or 500. Shape your blade with a small radius so it don't bite at the edge. The rest is just patience and tuning.
I look at an old or used differently. Its a stockpile of parts. Depending where you find it, will determine how much you pay for it. But if the blade is too far gone, you can buy a replacement. I have a box of old planes I've picked up over the years, I used them for parts. I haven't noticed a quality problem with the post war planes. I'll do just about anything rather then have to spend a fortune on a new one.
The LN and other high end planes look beautiful and perform well, but are not a good fit for my hobbyist budget. I still use my father's old Craftsman jack plane and his Stanley block plane, both of which are older than I am. I also have a Dunlap block plane that I found in my mother-in-law's garage after she passed away. Not sure if it was her father's, or if it was left behind by the home's previous owner. My "newest" plane is a Fulton fore plane with a corrugated bottom, manufactured somewhere between 1918-1925. I picked it up for $6 at a small town junk store, flattened the sole, cleaned up the rust, repaired the tote, and sharpened the blade. It works well.
You're a good speaker, and I agree with much of what you said. I feel I have to point out that a lot of people are missing out on good, reasonably priced planes because they bypass Millers Falls planes. I'd stack their premium lin against Stanley planes any day, and I suspect that they're made of better materials than the old Stanley planes. I own a LN No 4 and a Veritas Low Angle Jack. I reach for the veritas Jack more frequently than I do the LN No. 4.
(sings) all planes are beautiful, all planes are nice.. Well kind of Shame there's not a strong second hand market in used Lie Nielsen and Veritas because people hold on to them.
problem is. with all the Gary Vs wannabes out there $30 for a plane isn't realistic anymore. it's $50-$70 to take a risk on a plane with dubious photos, by some garage sale flipper asshole.
@@ENCurtis Do you have any plans to do a video on scrapers, use and sharpening? I couldn't find anything on your Playlist unless I missed it. Thanks again for the video on planes.
Все верно чувак, если руки из нужного места растут то можно из говна сделать конфетку и нехуй тратить кучу бабла на нельсоны и веритасы👍 100% I agree with you dude
Vidéo intéressante mais étant un vieux de la vieille une chose me choque dans sa vidéo on ne pose jamais jamais un rabot à plat sur un établi…..question de logique passer tant de temps à l affûtage pour le planter dans l établi . J aurai fait ça en apprentissage pas longtemps car le coup de pied aux fesses du maître d’apprentissage aurait été aussitôt. …….
I have a love affair with my hand plans but it took a while. The relationship like any good marriage just gets better when you understand your partner. I’m talking mostly about the plane here… not that the other is any less important.
I'll go one step further, you can find craftsman or millers falls planes made prior to WW2 that are 30-50 bucks and function at a high level like the others. Stanleys have become hilariously overpriced as "collectables". Generally, the higher end planes are going to have less adjustment, a better blade that holds the edge longer, and extra newer features like micro adjustment, precision grinding, and contours in locations that are traditionally uncomfortable. A great example of a hand plane that eventually becomes a necessity is a shooting plane. Yes, you can use a low profile or jack plane, yes they work well, but after 1000 cuts you are losing time/money/effort using a tool for not it's intended purpose.
A good tradesman never blames the tool ! Never. I've seen some fantastic work done with so called cheap tools and absolutely shit jobs done by those with all the best tools. I've been in woodwork for about 50yrs and the old tools are by far better quality than the newer ones.
I learned that someone else will be using my LN5.5 and Veritas LAJ in 100 years. I don’t think this will be true of anything else I own. Ownership of planes is temporary it seems.
I can't understand why people still talk about the performance out of the box. That barely registers as a fraction of the lifespan of the plane. Within one good session it needs to be re-sharpened. I appreciate that a manufacturer would take the time to do this, but when evaluating a plane, it means absolutely nothing. Great video btw. Cheers from Canada.
Because setting up a plane is alot more than just sharping the blade. Proper setup involves getting parts to mate well with each other and understanding what to do when they are not. This isn't something a beginner is likely to understand.
I don't understand the obsession with the old Stanley planes being able to do, well anything. If you want a good working plane, then buy a new one. If you want to collect/look at it, then it doesn't matter how it works.
for me it's about value for my money. I spend hundreds on a new high end plane, then there's something I have to do without. An old Stanley, a couple of hours, and I have a plane that works well and money in.my pocket. Especially since a brand new plane has to be set up and sharpened anyway.
Yeah, setting the blade down on wood will dull it. Better to expose it so other metal objects can strike it. Just messing with you, it is like politics, you will never convince all to your view on this.
@@Control-Freak hello I only understand so you a good worker but you have to get up if you ll be better because you don t know what is the total tools respect. It s no only à problem with strikeDon t worry perapse one day you ll be. Sorry for my poor english .i d like explain to you .
Have been refurbishing old Stanleys for years. They are DELIGHTFUL
I've been a cabinet maker for 30plus years, and I've bought brand new Stanley (made in England) as well as old Stanleys and Records. I've also bought new Veritas and Lie Nielson as well as second-hand ones. I love every one of them.
I'm completely new to woodworking, about 3 months experience. I know I want to work with hand tools and so far I have gotten 4 pre 1950's Stanley's, a 4, 5, 6 and a Handyman. It was frustrating but after a few weeks i got them all figured out, tuned up and now shavings fly out of the mouth. It was so satisfying learning how to clean them, set them up and then fine tune them. I have access to free oak pallets, 6ft long 4inch wide and 1inch thick, so that is what I used to practice and learn.
I enjoyed the video, as well as the couple others i have seen of yours so far, will dig into more of your back catalogue. Thanks for the videos.
Thank you! And good luck with the Stanley’s. They’re a joy to use once cleaned up nicely.
Welcome aboard to one of the oldest and most fulfilling hobby / craft man can experience.
I never "got" hand planes until someone let me use a well tuned and VERY sharp one. Since then, I've refurbished many Stanleys, but over the years I've been replacing (ok, augmenting) them with LN which are far superior. All that to say that I agree with your approach of using inexpensive planes until you can afford something better. Cheers!
Not just afford them, but to really understand how to use them and how to get the delta between a decent one and a "good" one to really matter. Putting a new driver in a sports car is never going to really show the car's potential. :)
@@ChrisHornberger I don't have any large hand planes, just a couple of vintage block planes my grandpa owned. I am looking to get a vintage Stanley No 4, with the goal of cleaning it up and actually using it. I feel like every woodworker should have one, to get an appreciation for a Veritas or Lie Neilsen, which are long term goals.
Another inspiring video - Thanks Erik.
I’ve gone down the old plane route. One aspect of that route is the pure joy in bringing life back to an item that has been left to decay, and then using it as it was intended to be used.
Keep up the great videos.
Ken, Southport UK.
Thanks so much Ken. I’m really glad you’re enjoying the videos. And I couldn’t agree more… bringing an old tool back to life is thing of besuty!
This is an excellent example of how important--and powerful--good sharpening is.
Sharpening is the MOST important thing for sure!
My first two planes were a Stanley #4 and a Record #5 off eBay. Tuned them up and they work great. I use them all the time. My next plane was a Veritas low angle block plane. I love it. My next will likely be a Veritas low angle jack plane for an all round shooting board plane.
I'm really glad you are back on weekly videos, that are always so good!
Thank you so much! I’m so glad you’re enjoying them. And thanks for always engaging 🙏🙏
I use a similar set of planes and I agree with you completely. Good advice. Thanks!
My only criticism of your video concerns the background music and it's only because I'm an old, deaf Vietnam veteran who has to wear hearing aids and that makes streaming difficult when there is background music to contend with. Thanks Erik. I wish I could afford a Lie-Nielsen hand plane, but my Wood Rivers will have to suffice for me.
Great video! The TH-cam algo put you in front of me and this was exactly the video I needed to see. I'm new to hand planes. Literally just purchased my first two old/refurbished Stanleys for under $150 like you mentioned. It made sense to me to be able buy 2 old/refurb planes for the same price as one brand new one. It enabled me to afford a couple sharpening stones - which seemed essential. I had glass and sand paper, but wanted the longevity of stones. I enjoyed your approach and common sense info - I'm a new sub!
Glad you enjoyed it and learned a thing or two. And thanks for the sub my guy! Enjoy the new planes!
@@ENCurtis Do you have a recommended method for sharpening plane irons? I searched your channel and didn’t find anything.
I’ve got my great grandfather’s Stanley #4. I will never get rid of it but I never use it. I don’t know if it’s pre 1950 but I did a lot of work on it; getting it flat, getting the blade sharp, getting the frog adjusted. I consider myself mechanical but that plane just hates me. I have a modern #6 with a thicker better blade and easier frog adjustment and I never think about using the old Stanley on a piece of wood. I know the thing that really matters is the edge of the blade that touches the wood but dialing in the opening of the mouth makes a big difference too. So I buy once and cry once. One day I hope to have a nice shop where I can display the old Stanley.
Anyway, thank you for your videos. I’m a fan!
Sounds like you could turn that Stanley into a beautiful scrub plane and then look forward to using it when needed!
I started with some not so great post WWII Stanley's. I just didn't find them at all satisfying despite watching many videos of how to "tune" them. I bought a Veritas low angle jack plane and that was a game changer for me! Along the way I learned how to sharpen properly. Then I was given an old tool box with a few Stanley type 10's and 11's and I restored them. Now a Stanley no 6 type 10 is my very favorite plane. It sings! Such a wonderful tool to use! I also have a few of the smaller Lie Nielsen planes and they are amazing. It took a long time for me to understand why people love the vintage Stanley's.
I just love that planing sound.. I sometimes need to stop myself planing a piece that's good and done just because I'm enjoying the feel and sound of a perfectly tuned and sharpened plane too much 😂
😂 hahaha! So nice to know that I am not the only one who can take a good thing too far!!!
That #4 is pretty!
Smiled at your comment about the sapwood. I have a No. 4 that was my grandfather’s - Type 14 (IIRC, ~1931-32). It’s very similar to yours, but the sapwood portion is even lighter. I have to say that I’ve always thought it was a little odd, but the way you talked about it completely changed my perspective. 😊 BTW, this No. 4 has a laminated iron, which I don’t see discussed very often. I’d be interested in any comments you have if you’ve owned an older Stanley with a laminated iron.
Erik, thanks for this video! I love your style. I know you've done it 1000 time for the lie Nielsen demos, but I'd personally love to see your version of setting up one of these planes. I greatly appreciate your videos. Thanks!
Thanks Erik, a good balanced overview ! We're very fortunate here in the UK there are plenty of old Stanleys, Records etc, all of my planes came from E-bay for between £15 & £50 and once tuned and sharpened can do anything an expensive new one can ! What people forget is that even these planes were expensive in their time that's why cheap modern ones are so poor !
Love your stuff! Sage advice for new woodworkers, and informative without being a fanboy of one method or product over another.
I have almost exclusively (minus my 30 year old block plane) either old Stanley or a bit more current German wooden bodied planes (Ulmia etc.). I tend to use power tools, but when the work needs detail I bring out the planes and hand routers. I also hate to sand (don't we all), so planes and scrapers save a LOT of hassle for me.
Thanks for this
Excellent video, sir.
Thank you for sharing your thought process, its easier for a beginner to make more educated decisions. 🍀
Thanks for the kind comment my friend 🙏
Man, all I own are 100 year old planes lol, I can't justify spending crazy amounts of hard earned cash on a new one, and I love finding antique Stanley at yard sales when the owner has no idea what he/she has, then the satisfaction of restoring them and using them is so awesome.
Who doesn't love refurbishing a beautiful old plane?? ESPECIALLY one you found for dirt cheap at an old garage sale!
I used to do the same, on the weekends I would travel to the fleA market, antique stores and yard sales. used to find a lot of great deals, but honestly when you think about the gas and time of it all, I bet sitting at your computer buying one on eBay would cost less. but you lose the experience of the chase for Sure
I have both the Veritas low angle jack and the Lie Nielson. I also have my grandfather's Stanleys that are over 100 years old. They still work just fine.
VERY helpful thank you 🙏
I’d love a sharpening video and your take on sharpening systems! That’s been my biggest frustration over the last year or so
Definitely planning one!!
The open secret is dont jump around. Pick a method and just stick to it for a year, you will find everything starts getting very sharp. Second is always turn a burr. That means you got zero intersect that is a sharp edge. Stone, sand paper, lapping compound diamond, it all works the same way.
@@ehisey I’ve stuck with a cheap set of diamond plates, but have been frustrated with the results… I question if it’s me and my inexperience, the cheap chisels or irons, the cheap plates, or a combination lol… I did just get a honing jig, so that has helped a little. I’m just very interested on everyone else’s methods
@@darodes that is the hardest part, the need to just practice. I have found that each tool has to go through a training period before it really takes an edge each time. When you have mastered a method, the initialization of the tool when you get takes care of it, before that itis lots of sharpening. What kind of issues are you having?
@@ehisey maybe it’s because I just picked up a hand plane and chisels last year with zero experience, and I don’t know what sharp is “supposed” to feel like… also don’t know if I should temper my expectations with cheaper tools too.
Great video!!
Thank you!
My first plane was a Stanley No. 5 with cracked handle. When building a Moravian bench with a laminated Southern Yellow pine top I was going to use a router sled to flatten. I looked at my No. 5 and said "I am going to give it a go". I put an edge on the blade and went at it, it was one of the best workouts I ever had. The top came out super flat and from that moment I realized I was going to be a hand tool wood worker.
Awesome video
Sweet video and demonstration of your fleet……that little LN 102 Jen engraved is my favorite too. I always look for it in your backdrop when you are in front of it, but never see it……till now I see what shelf it lives on. 😀 Enjoy your day Eric, eager to see that beautiful door hung too.
It is, without a doubt, the most beautiful tool I own thanks to Jenny. And that door should be hung very soon!
A few years ago I had a chance to buy dozens of pre-war hand planes from a collector. I found that I could tune up most of them, but out of the 100+ different planes, there were only a handful that are, for whatever reason, perfect. All the rest are just ok.
10:00 So which is it, ready to use right out of the box or you need to sharpen it up a little bit ? From what I hear all planes need to be tuned before use. I have 4 planes, all used, and do what I need them to. Maybe some day I’ll be able to try out a high end one.
11:45 All planes and chisels (and woodturning gouges) regularly need to be sharpened anyway, so sharp out of the box is a non-issue. Even if a plane is sharp out of the box, that only lasts a short time before it will need to be re-sharpened. Sharp out of the box should not even be a consideration.
In my journey to learn how to use hand planes, some where a while ago, I figures out how important it is to get a junk plane and learn how to fine tune it. Everything from taking it apart, checking blade sides and nose for square, cleaning the surfaces and filing down where needed, and putting it back together. You can learn a whole lot from doing this. Picked up a newer Stanley 4 1/2 and it still had factory paint on it. Took a month of fussing around with it to get it so it finally cut the way I wanted it to....
A month?!?! Wow.
@@donesry2902 Well, as I said, I am kind of new to this part of flat work.... Almost 73 years old. I should have had shop classes....
@@robohippy I would have given up way before you finished. But I did spend a lot of time working on my old plane and never got it working the way it should. I bought a thicker blade for it but then the adjuster thing couldn’t reach the slot.
Also, there are two types of frogs. My old Stanley has the one that you can only adjust if the blade is removed which is a lot of work. My new plane I can adjust the frog with the blade attached. Anyway I’m happy with my new plane and don’t ever plan to refurbish another old plane. I know a lot of guys have several different sizes. I only use my #6. The length and weight are really good for making flat cuts. I also have a block plane and a shoulder plane but most of the work I do is with the #6
@@donesry2902 I would bet that if you took that plane to some one who really knows how to refurbish them, they could take one look and say "Oh, just do this" and then you would palm smack your forehead and say "Why didn't I think of that?" I am persistent about things and that was how long it took me to figure it out. I did ask a friend and he made a couple of suggestions, and one of them worked.
The plane that I spent a month on trying to figure out why it wouldn't cut, I finally figured out the mounting spot for the frog had a sizeable hump in it, and I figured out how to flatten that out. Now, it cuts well, I have some old metal planes, and I may get the thicker blades for them. This may require a new screw for the lever cap. That would involve a search for the same thread size and pitch, then buy a new screw and cut it to size. Not too difficult....
I've got my great grandfather's number 4 from when he bought it new in the 10s or 20s. It has a tote with half sapwood as well
I love my Stanley number 5 but In Canada at least where I am the price for old Stanleys is bordering on the ridiculous to the point where you can get a new Veritas for only a few dollars more. Living where i do Lee Valley is 10 minutes away so I don’t have to pay shipping, exchange etc which is why the prices are closer than you would think. Great video as always.
Nice video. My one disagreement is regarding the blades that come with the old Stanleys. Replacing them with Hock blades is a massive and relatively inexpensive upgrade. Even razor sharp I don't think the old blades compare well with Hock blades...
Mr. Curtis, 2 questions. One, and I am not sure if this was the video where you commented about it, but you said you didn't like the Wood River planes. I am curious as to what you didn't like about them. I don't care for the handle snice that bump near the base hits a pressure point on the heel of my palm so that is uncomfortable for me. Other than that, it seems to be fine quality.
The other question is what about the Japanese style pull planes? I am playing with some, and hope to make some, but I do like them. Fine tuning them takes a bit to learn.... I do like the metal, and still learning to sharpen them. I guess for that matter, how about the western style push planes?
Love all you vids. Any chance you have a build video of the wall hanging tool cabinet?
I'd recommend people make a krenov style or Vic Tesolin style with a semi cheap iron. Teaches you a lot about what you're going for when you use a metal plane.
Thanks mate
I’ve got a few vintage planes which I’ve setup and sharpened. The unmatchable joy of using a 125 year old Stanley #7 to make a board smooth as baby’s butt is worth every hour of cleaning, tuning, and sharpening….and it was many hours 😂
Thank you for the nice video with lots of info. I was given a HAND PLANE . It appears to be old (objective of course) The only marking i can see is MADE IN USA below the wheel. Any idea what brand this could be ?? Thank you
That's the same reason for finding older hand planes cheap. People bought them, tried to use them, but never set them up, got disgusted and tossed them in a draw, never to be seen again, until the garage sale when I buy them.
Are the Stanley Bailey with the grooves on the bottom still a good planer to restore/refurbish?
What a helpful and informative video-thank you! Out of curiosity, do you still teach people how to use hand tools? I ask as a brand-new learner located somewhat near the previous employer you referenced.
Hmm... delicious hand planes
Thanks for another excellent video. Do you have anything you can share for a total newbie to sharpening? I bought a low-angle block plane, a set of chisels, and whetstones ... and now I need to figure out how to start. :)
I’m planning to do a sharpening video soon(ish). I’ll show you my entire system and talk about my past systems in that video. For now, I would say get yourself a guide and sharpen at 30-35 degrees to make life simple and easy as possible.
@@ENCurtis using a guide is excellent advise. To be honest I'd say grinding the primary bevel is pretty much essential too. If you're grinding the primary bevel you don't have to hone much at all which saves on time, effort and honing supplies. I only use a 1,000 grit diamond plate to hone on. After that I polish and go.
Wonderful intro to planes. They are indeed among my most important and loved tools. I have a suggestion, take it or leave, but it would be great if you would take it, or maybe point me/us in the right direction. I have a Lie Nielsen #4. Gorgeous plane. I cannot for the life of me get the blade extended beyond the mouth enough to take a full, clean shaving. If I extended it enough, it hits the front of the mouth. If I move the frog back a bit I cannot extended the blade enough. It is maddening! I have other planes that work wonderfully. There is something about the geometry that I'm missing. I want to love this plane, but I can't until I get it figured out. Help? Please? By the way, even if you cannot help, keep up the great content.
Glad you enjoyed the video. And sorry to hear about that frustrating situation! Without getting my hands on the tool to see what’s happening it’s hard to advise, but you can always call lie Nielsen and speak with someone at length about the issue. And if it can’t be resolved over the phone you can send it in for a free repair or adjustment.
I'm a weekend woodworker (not every weekend) and DIYer. I have the opportunity to get a modern Stanley No. 62 SweetHeart Low Angle Jack Plane and the Stanley No. 60-1/2 SweetHeart Low Angle Block Plane for around $125 for both, new. I understand that they're not the best out there and I'm sure i'll have to do some tuning, which I'm not opposed to, but would those be a great buy for my occasional use and for the price I can get both combined? These would also be my first two hand planes.
Fantastic, more in depth, sharpening and setting up would be great 👍
Noted! Will try to do so at some point soon!
@@ENCurtis Brilliant! Thanks for the reply👍
With the Lie Neilson hand planes, would you recommend the iron or the bronze? And why? I'm looking to buy one.
Both are great. Only upside to bronze is it doesn’t rust (and sexier). Upside to iron is it’s cheaper. That’s the only difference.
At 2:00 it is important not to have the blade square, if shaving a flat surface, but to have the cutting edge parralell / square to the bottom of the plane!
You're probably picking nits; that's essentially how I think most people take it. I've always known that "having the blade square" means taking a flat cut, regardless of where the lateral adjuster points the whole blade. ** shrug **
I'm new to woodworking and I wanted to use a hand plane but I didn't know what to buy and didn't want to spend much on it, since I still don't know how much I like the hobby. I bought a Kobalt hand plane from Lowes. I did kind of enjoy planing with it, but it would gouge the wood in places and I would often end up with the work piece thinner around the edges. I never tried to sharpen it. Just the honing blocks sound expensive to me. Would honing it make much difference, or is a Kobalt plane just garbage?
Sounds like I'd have to be lucky (and picky) on what I can find in the used market- or save enough to buy high end new planes. Got it.
I need to see what mine is.. it’s in great shape it needs a new handle as it is cracked.. but for $10 and I’ve been looking for one in decent hope it’s good. lol I found some in worse shape for $30
I agree with most of the video, however beginners are unlikely to understand how to get a vintage handplane up and runnning correctly. Its more than simple understanding what needs to be corrected, its the understanding of what a tuned plane really feels like. Getting a contemporary plane will more likely lead to a pleasant experience than a vintage one for the beginner.
I do agree. It’s far easier to learn on a new, flawless tool than a refurb.
Spending a lot of money doest make you a better wood worker . The guy on epic upscaling does some of the coolest wood working on you tube with a chisel hand saw and ball peen hammer. Blows all the boutique boys away
What recommendations for someone that wants to elevate their woodworking but not invest in a power planer...ie the 735x DeWalt. Is a #5 jack plane sufficient?
I've had most of my old Record and Stanley planes for over fifty years and have worn out several blades on them and they work every bit as good as the new kids on the block but my planes just feel so much better in my hands. I guess the totes have worn to fit my hands over the years and I have made new totes for some of them which are so much more comfortable than the new ones. I have used the LNs and the Vs and the BCs of this world and I just do not see the need to spend lots of money on 'pretty' tools when the old ones work perfectly well. I would rather spend money on beautiful wood.
I do agree totally. If you’re Stanley’s are singing sweetly, use them well and lovingly. Spend the money on lumber. They were fantastic tools then and remain fantastic tools now.
I (think) I am at 50 planes and counting about 1/3 are modern and 1/3 collectors and 1/3 users. They are all good, but also all eventually need tuning. Just remember that the time you spend on most old rust buckets is going to be FAR more expensive than just to buy a new plane (no matter wha your job is). Ideally you buy a tuned (almost tuned) used plane. The caveat is that you don't know what you are looking at unless you have owned a crapload of them. I think any Baileys from type 9 to 12 are probably the best you can do - 11 being the most pleasant to look at despite the small adjuster. If you can live with a heavier tool, the Woden & older Records will do better final work with a thicker heavier base.
I'm 57 just retired and getting into wood working ,watching some videos to learn a little more about hand plains, one thing im looking to know is the sizes witch sizes to get , why so many different sizes ,witch one I need, what dose one size do that a different size can't or can do,. can you make a video about that ,,,thanks
What is the tool your using to sharpen the blades? Not the stone.
I just found your channel today through the Shaper Orgin, debating on getting one.
Found this video, just so I was giving a couple of Lie Neilson and Veritas planes, scared to use them, don’t want to ruin them, I don’t know how to adjust them. Also, I didn’t know the blade had to be sharpen! Thank you!
The Eclipse honing guide? That's what he's using at 5:56 Don't do the ruler trick like he does. That's just bad form.
Glad you learned something! I’m using the honing guide from lie Nielsen, but there are cheaper options on the market.
And for the record, there is nothing wrong with the ruler trick. Helpful to hone the back of the blade close to the edge. Just don’t do it on your chisels.
@@ENCurtis awesome!…thank you.
The ones post 1960 aren't that bad. They are better than their modern counterparts, for sure. The trouble is the post 1960 tools do need a little love and care to run as well as a pre 1960 tool. It should be kept in mind that a lot of those old pre1960 planes were handled and whittled by people who wanted the best out of their tools for the sake of their career, so they run well because they were handled by woodworkers who made them so. You can make a post 1960 tool run as well as their forebears, and for a beginner I think it's a good learning curve to understand.
i'll admit i own a few veritas planes. the only lee valley in the usa happens to be down the street from my place so its hard to pass up 😂
Nice video. Question: Why does every woodworker use softwood pine to demonstrate the sharpness of their hand planes? Most woodworkers are using hardwood for projects. Why not compare apples to apples?
All true. One can also, for grins, build a Krenov-style plane, give it a Hock blade, and Bob's yer uncle.
Hand planes might be my weakness, I have too many. Including a Woden and a Bedrock.
I think I am over 60 planes now, yes, I have a problem
I wish you had shown us how to put all the bits back together again!
The difference between new and old for a beginner is that the beginner lacks the experience to know how to “choose wisely.” I submit that a beginner should buy a new, GOOD QUALITY plane and learn the basics. Then, after learning those basics, not being hampered by possible problems with an old plane, the woodworker can now begin collecting older planes with the experience to know what to buy and what to stay away from. By the way, WoodRiver makes excellent quality planes for less than Lie-Nielsen and Veritas. A good choice for a novice at a fair price.
Erik getting sappy on this one 😂
I can’t help myself. I love what I love 😂
So is your advice is to go looking for an old tool that most no their worth?
To "win" an argument on the internet, I tuned up a sheet metal (rather than cast iron) PEXTO plane, widely considered useless, the reality is that it works beautiful, although still using it to see how well the paper thin blade holds up.
Another route is buying one of the new planes that cost less than the old ones. There's certainly going to be more setup than the high end new brands, but maybe less than the old ones. Generally I think you have to spend either time or money, so which do you have more of?
Perhaps I am too new to woodworking. What does it mean if you talk about a #4, #5, #8, etc?
👍👍👍👍
I would use any hand plane, just adjust it, work it. All the same 50 or 500. Shape your blade with a small radius so it don't bite at the edge. The rest is just patience and tuning.
I look at an old or used differently. Its a stockpile of parts. Depending where you find it, will determine how much you pay for it. But if the blade is too far gone, you can buy a replacement. I have a box of old planes I've picked up over the years, I used them for parts. I haven't noticed a quality problem with the post war planes. I'll do just about anything rather then have to spend a fortune on a new one.
The LN and other high end planes look beautiful and perform well, but are not a good fit for my hobbyist budget.
I still use my father's old Craftsman jack plane and his Stanley block plane, both of which are older than I am. I also have a Dunlap block plane that I found in my mother-in-law's garage after she passed away. Not sure if it was her father's, or if it was left behind by the home's previous owner.
My "newest" plane is a Fulton fore plane with a corrugated bottom, manufactured somewhere between 1918-1925. I picked it up for $6 at a small town junk store, flattened the sole, cleaned up the rust, repaired the tote, and sharpened the blade. It works well.
Absolutely nothing wrong with restoring old planes for use. They're brilliant tools and were made for working.
You're a good speaker, and I agree with much of what you said. I feel I have to point out that a lot of people are missing out on good, reasonably priced planes because they bypass Millers Falls planes. I'd stack their premium lin against Stanley planes any day, and I suspect that they're made of better materials than the old Stanley planes. I own a LN No 4 and a Veritas Low Angle Jack. I reach for the veritas Jack more frequently than I do the LN No. 4.
I've often wondered if all these American woodworkers on TH-cam pronounce lever like "lee-ver" because of Canadian Rob Cosman.
My whole concern is why should a CNC made plane cost as much as the are nailing us for. If they were hand ground and polished..maybe.
(sings) all planes are beautiful, all planes are nice..
Well kind of
Shame there's not a strong second hand market in used Lie Nielsen and Veritas because people hold on to them.
There may be one day. But they’ve only been around 25+ years.
6:12
😃👍🏻👊🏻
😎🙏🔥
problem is. with all the Gary Vs wannabes out there $30 for a plane isn't realistic anymore. it's $50-$70 to take a risk on a plane with dubious photos, by some garage sale flipper asshole.
A man who loves his hand planers.. a little too much
I use old wooden hand planes.
Thanks you for the info and thanks for cc so I don't have to listen to the annoying background noise.
Thanks for watching.
@@ENCurtis Do you have any plans to do a video on scrapers, use and sharpening? I couldn't find anything on your Playlist unless I missed it. Thanks again for the video on planes.
What’s the beef with Woodriver? Your comment seems a little visceral. There is some Canadian guy who seems to think they are a good as LN.
Все верно чувак, если руки из нужного места растут то можно из говна сделать конфетку и нехуй тратить кучу бабла на нельсоны и веритасы👍
100% I agree with you dude
Vidéo intéressante mais étant un vieux de la vieille une chose me choque dans sa vidéo on ne pose jamais jamais un rabot à plat sur un établi…..question de logique passer tant de temps à l affûtage pour le planter dans l établi . J aurai fait ça en apprentissage pas longtemps car le coup de pied aux fesses du maître d’apprentissage aurait été aussitôt. …….
I have a love affair with my hand plans but it took a while. The relationship like any good marriage just gets better when you understand your partner. I’m talking mostly about the plane here… not that the other is any less important.
I'll go one step further, you can find craftsman or millers falls planes made prior to WW2 that are 30-50 bucks and function at a high level like the others. Stanleys have become hilariously overpriced as "collectables". Generally, the higher end planes are going to have less adjustment, a better blade that holds the edge longer, and extra newer features like micro adjustment, precision grinding, and contours in locations that are traditionally uncomfortable.
A great example of a hand plane that eventually becomes a necessity is a shooting plane. Yes, you can use a low profile or jack plane, yes they work well, but after 1000 cuts you are losing time/money/effort using a tool for not it's intended purpose.
Neilson planes are far superior to the old Stanley’s I have both
A good tradesman never blames the tool ! Never.
I've seen some fantastic work done with so called cheap tools and absolutely shit jobs done by those with all the best tools.
I've been in woodwork for about 50yrs and the old tools are by far better quality than the newer ones.
I learned that someone else will be using my LN5.5 and Veritas LAJ in 100 years. I don’t think this will be true of anything else I own. Ownership of planes is temporary it seems.
I can't understand why people still talk about the performance out of the box. That barely registers as a fraction of the lifespan of the plane. Within one good session it needs to be re-sharpened. I appreciate that a manufacturer would take the time to do this, but when evaluating a plane, it means absolutely nothing. Great video btw. Cheers from Canada.
Because setting up a plane is alot more than just sharping the blade. Proper setup involves getting parts to mate well with each other and understanding what to do when they are not. This isn't something a beginner is likely to understand.
OH second thought the Stanley's are not steel
They used to build things to last. Now days they build things to fall apart.
I don't understand the obsession with the old Stanley planes being able to do, well anything. If you want a good working plane, then buy a new one. If you want to collect/look at it, then it doesn't matter how it works.
for me it's about value for my money. I spend hundreds on a new high end plane, then there's something I have to do without.
An old Stanley, a couple of hours, and I have a plane that works well and money in.my pocket. Especially since a brand new plane has to be set up and sharpened anyway.
Never set down hand plane on the table always on the side !!!!!!!!! Before all lesson It was the first thing we learnt for Time ago …….
Yeah, setting the blade down on wood will dull it. Better to expose it so other metal objects can strike it. Just messing with you, it is like politics, you will never convince all to your view on this.
@@Control-Freak hello
I only understand so you a good worker but you have to get up if you ll be better because you don t know what is the total tools respect. It s no only à problem with strikeDon t worry perapse one day you ll be. Sorry for my poor english .i d like explain to you .
@@MrPhilippe974 Not sure I understand what you are trying say but thank you for the reply.