Great video, my 2018 DR650 was stolen 5 months ago and I just got it back. It's been through the wars and I'm currently repairing it. The clutch was seized, I freed it by running the bike in first gear on a stand with the clutch pulled in and then stepped on the back brake and POP it was free. Now I just need to adjust the play in the cable and do an oil change!
Thanks for your help! As someone who isn’t the most experienced tinkering with machinery I was able to make an adjustment when I thought my bike had a more serious issue!
All good information Dino. I find accurate clutch actuation is important on the DR to get the best "feel" when taking off from a stop. You have provided information so owners can make adjustments to suit their requirements.
Thank you Mal, I think many will "tweak" the free play to get the feel where they want it but I hoped this would be a good starting point. as always, thank you for the comment. Dino
Hi Dino, thanks for another great video. I noticed at 5:20 you said it would be difficult to "get it into neutral when you come to a stop". That made my ears perk up...I'm a riding instructor, and want to point out that many riders think they should be in neutral at stop lights and stop signs, but we should all be in first gear. That allows us to quickly get out of the way in case traffic behind us looks like it isn't going to stop (and of course we left plenty of space in front of us to allow this escape). Happy travels!
It's funny you uploaded this because I was JUST about to do this on mine and I had to send it to the shop to address an issue (dying on acceleration) so I had the ship take care of it. Still watching it though because I want to do it next time!
Great video Dino! I personally prefer to adjust the friction point, and just leave the free play where it ends up. I like to have the clutch just fully disengaged when the lever is pulled against my gloved ring and pinky fingers (using my index and middle fingers to pull the lever). This can result in the freeplay being a little bit on the tight side, but I find it more consistent and controllable when making panic shifts/stops, particularly off-road. What I really need is lever with adjustable reach... but I didn't buy a DR because I like to spend money unnecessarily! 😁
I don't disagree with your philosophy, I actually run mine with a little less that 10mm myself, however I wanted the video to reflect the way the manual specified the process so new riders would have a baseline to set the clutch up with repeatable results. I think as a person rides more they will come to a point where they will fine tune the lever to their liking. I am hoping the video provided the foundation to make more refined adjustments in the future for those who choose to do so. Thank you for the great feedback. Dino
My DR seemed to have the right freeplay, but I felt like it didn’t shift as smoothly as it should as if clutch wasn’t completely disangaging. I removed a bit of freeplay and it now shifts better.
Sometimes that will happen, and I should have mentioned that. I find also that if you shift with only one or two fingers the clutch may drag a bit because the clutch is not pulled right to the bar because of the remaining fingers grasping the bar and stopping full articulation. Not sure if this is what is happening with yours but I should have mentioned this in the video Thank you for the great feedback. Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed It's still not 100% perfect, but 75% better. My friends 2011 with 20000km (mine is a 2018 with 12000km) shifts so smooth its ridiculous, up and down you can barely feel the gears. On mine sometimes its silky smooth, sometimes I feel like its a bit rougher than I'd like (and I make sure to fully pull the clutch and I've ridden over 300000km on motorcycles so I'm pretty sure it's not my technique hehe). Maybe it's been used for hardcore offroading and clutch has been abused more than normal for the km...
Thank you, I'm so happy you enjoy the videos, so far the guards are good. I have not really put them to the test yet but will do a follow up once I get some more miles on them. Thanks again . Dino
Thanks I to luv your vids... I just did nsu fix and it went smooth except when I hooked the clutch link back and notice there's hardly no pressure on clutch lever .. I haven't added oil back yet because trying to make sure I won't need to empty it out again because I'm not confident I have the clutch engagement correct (lil thing with grooves that slides into thing with spinning rod that clutch link connects to) I did use a sharpie to mark where link attached top of the case .. I had trouble getting it to line up.. I'm thinking that might have something to do with it ... and inference would be appreciated .. thanks again for the great guides!
Thank you for the comment and question, I always point out I am not a mechanic but will put in my thoughts. I would think you have something not assembled right inside. I did the same thing when I did my clutch and it would not release. I would open it up and check to make sure all the friction and steels are tight to each other, there should ne no gaps in the pack once assembled. I hope this helps. Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed I think when I marked top with sharpie it was rotated out of synch. Id swear I turned it and this would not have been wise unless was also marked on case. I also figured I had moved the throttle cable. After unhooking the cable from both sides lever and case link .. I then reconnected both and now clutch actually feels normal with slight play before engaging... thanks!
I think each clutch is a bit different, but my clutch starts to "drag" and engage About 1-1.5cm off the bar and fully engage once all the free play is taken up. Dino
Thank you for the input for sure, this is true but most new dr650 owners still have the hand guards in place which makes the gap method difficult to do without removing the hand guards. Again, this video was the basic factory method for new owners to get rolling, as they ride more they will undoughtabley learn more sifistocated methods. Thank you for the comment. Dino
Ive got an odd issue with my clutch. Brand new plates (replaced end of last season), engages well, seems good but 4th and 5th slip at the higher rpms. Any ideas? I just adjusted the clutch cable according to this video and released some of the cable pressure... but im beginning to question oil as i have been told they can contribute and i do use synth oil in the bike. Anyhow, thanks for a good video. This seems to have just begun happening btw, rode quite a bit till very end of season and some in winter, but now its certainly slipping.
When I installed my clutch I started with motul full synthetic oil and the clutch was really grabby on engagement. I switched to shell Rotella t4 and the clutch is operating much better. I would try a different oil and see if that helps, you could also add a bit more free play but then you risk the clutch not fully disengaging.
@@DinosTinkerShed Seems that the adjustment did the trick though i will change oil and use the same as you... rotella t4. I just backed down the adjust a little bit and added in the free play you spoke about in the video and its perfect.
I have an 08 with only 1100 miles and I’m nearing the end of adjustment at both locations. Could the cable be stretched or something since I can’t seem to get enough free play with those adjustments?
Hey Dino, I am working on setting my clutch tension and notice that when doing it as you’ve suggested there is a little “slop” on the lever. Meaning that after releasing the clutch there can be a slight gap between the clutch lever and where it sits on the control. Is this acceptable? Thank you!
Hey Dino, I've been inspecting my clutch pack and reinstalled it (it was well within spec). I now have a very heavy clutch pull? Original springs, discs, metal plates are installed. Evenly and cross pattern torqued to 10nm as per manual. The bike's been sitting on a lift for three weeks, with the clutch lid of. Is this something I can fix with the clutch cable, or are my plates just dry or something? A collegue of mine reminded me if put the #2 plate, which is thicker, first. And I'm doubting if I did, or last. If I did it last, could this cause a heavy clutch? I've been playing around with the cable length, but slack or not, I still have a heavy clutch pull and it just doesn't disengage enough. I can turn the wheel in 1st gear with the clutch lever pulled in, albeit heavy to do so. You definitely have to push through friction. This is also the case walking the bike around in gear with the lever pushed in all the way. (hypothesis: is this normal and does it just need to oil up for the friction to go away? Side note: Bike won't start at the moment after carb clean/clutch inspection so I can only check with cold oil at the moment. The engine is turning but no ignition at the moment. I have to pull the new spark plugs and see if they work at all.) Any insight or guess at this matter will be much appreciated! Ron
Ron, I am sorry to hear that you are having issues with your DR. I just want to say that I am not a mechanic so take my advice with a grain of salt. When I have issues like this (take something apart, clean it, reassemble and it does not work) I always retrace my steps and also try to eliminate potential causes from sub systems (like the cable). To eliminate the cable, I would disconnect it from the clutch arm down at the case cover, you can then cycle the cable and feel if there is any unusual resistance or friction. If the cable seems to move freely then I would suspect the clutch pack is assembled incorrectly. I did this in my video on changing the DR clutch, when I re assembled the clutch the first time I did not seat the basket correctly and ended up with one or two of the friction dicks being "pinned" between the two halves of the basket. This meant that the clutch could not fully compress and there were gaps between the plates. I noticed this before I reinstalled the pack so I do not know how it would impact clutch pull, but I do believe that if the clutch worked correctly before you took it apart then most likely something is not assembled correctly. I hope this helps, if you still need more help, I suggest posting the question on DRriders, this forum is full of smarter folk than me and they love to help out with issues like this. Eather way, please let me know how you make out. Dino
@@DinosTinkerShedThank you for sharing. A wrongly installed pack seems highly likely. *cries* Plus point is that I can check if the #2 steel is inserted correctly. Bummer because The Netherlands has a big problem getting a proper gasket for a '92 since Europe hasn't sold a DR since +/- 2008. I'm not against liquid sealant, but they require a long dry periode, especially now in the winter.
I agree with the sealant, I prefer to use it only as a bonding agent for the gasket but if needed I will use it alone if I have no other choice. Good luck, please let me know how you make out. Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed Hey Dino, Well the DR is back from the shop... and boy did I mess it up good. While trying to fix the sticking and heavy clutch, I probably moved the timing chain and possibly the gears as well. My whole timing was 90° off and the bike would have never started. I thought it might be the carburator, so I send it in for a tune-up and tire change while it was already there, as I was at my end guessing what was wrong. Oh boy, the cost of repair was almost what I bought the bike for but I choose to let them fix it. Otherwise I'd be throwing away too much money anyway. I'm now officially married for live to the DR. I damaged the starter clutch with the timing being off. Apparently it was already worn, but I gave it it's final push. A lot of expensive gears grinded and they eventually tore open the entire bike fixing and cleaning it, properly aligning the timing and valves, changing gears and what not. The liquid seal didn't hold as the damaged edges I caused (I overlooked a bolt and started hammering and prying the lid off) were too deep and they caused a hundred meter long oil spill after they serviced the bike and used some liquid seal together with the gasket while riding the bike. They used liquid metal to fill up the gaps. Luckily I was spared the cleaning costs. Carburateur was fine though! Yesterday I took it out for a spin. Slapped MotOZ RallZ tires on and did some stretched of sand. All good now!
WOW, that is terrible, I am glad your DR is repaired but that is not fun at all. I hope this does not turn you away from home repairs. I have retimed my DR before when I had my head off to re-ring it at around 40k, just curious, did you have the lower cam chain gear off? Dino
This is not what a clutch adjustment is about and it's not the correct way of doing it. Clutch adjustment should be done what's the bike off the ground and the motor running while in gear. When the clutch lever is pulled in the rear wheel should come to a complete stop. This is how you know the clutch is not slipping. You make clutch adjustments until this is achieved that means the rear wheel does not move. That's how you know the clutch is not slipping
So somehow I snapped the clutch cable on my DR at the break lever. (I suspect sabotage but thats probly a conspiracy) I replaced the clutch cable but now the clutch never engages when I pull lever. I was stupid and didn't mark the little arm before I took it off. How do get enough travel to fully engage the clutch when I pull lever" It is possible I just get a shit cable.
The Dr650 video compendium you are building will be invaluable for future generations of classic bike enthusiasts
Thank you, I hope it helps out others. It's fun to put together.
Dino
Great video, my 2018 DR650 was stolen 5 months ago and I just got it back. It's been through the wars and I'm currently repairing it. The clutch was seized, I freed it by running the bike in first gear on a stand with the clutch pulled in and then stepped on the back brake and POP it was free. Now I just need to adjust the play in the cable and do an oil change!
Thank you Dino, you give the best instruction.
Thank you for the compliment RJ McCee. You are too kind.
Dino
Dino, you provide the best educational and instructional videos on youtube for a DR650. Also I am keen to see a video on the Tinker Shed renovation.
thank you for the feed back
Dino
Well done again Dino! Yes, I would enjoy a tour of your shed improvements.
Thank you for the comment.
Dino
Thanks for your help! As someone who isn’t the most experienced tinkering with machinery I was able to make an adjustment when I thought my bike had a more serious issue!
That's great to hear, I'm glad the information was helpful.
Dino
All good information Dino. I find accurate clutch actuation is important on the DR to get the best "feel" when taking off from a stop. You have provided information so owners can make adjustments to suit their requirements.
Thank you Mal, I think many will "tweak" the free play to get the feel where they want it but I hoped this would be a good starting point.
as always, thank you for the comment.
Dino
Thanks for putting this together. You did a great job walking through everything and explaining clearly.
Glad it was helpful!
Dino
Awesome!! i see you from Colombia, i have a XF 650, it's the "same" engine. glad to see you.
@@CarlosMarioPalacioSalazar glad to meet you as well
Dino
Hi Dino, thanks for another great video.
I noticed at 5:20 you said it would be difficult to "get it into neutral when you come to a stop".
That made my ears perk up...I'm a riding instructor, and want to point out that many riders think they should be in neutral at stop lights and stop signs, but we should all be in first gear. That allows us to quickly get out of the way in case traffic behind us looks like it isn't going to stop (and of course we left plenty of space in front of us to allow this escape).
Happy travels!
It's funny you uploaded this because I was JUST about to do this on mine and I had to send it to the shop to address an issue (dying on acceleration) so I had the ship take care of it. Still watching it though because I want to do it next time!
Glad you find it useful, thank you for the comment
Dino
Great tutorial! Thanks for walking us through this. As an inexperienced owner of the DR650 this sort of info is very helpful.
Thank you glad you find it usefull
Thanks for the great videos! You do a fantastic job explaining and editing!
@@bike_build_wander thank you, glad you enjoy the content.
Love your channel, please continue making dr650 videos , 👌
Greetings Dino,
As always another fantastic detailed video 🇺🇸🍾🎉🇺🇸.
Keep producing more videos.
(How the Dr 650 gas tank valve on/off works)
I like the video idea, thank you
Dino
thank you, your content is well appreciated . very simple straight forward. clear instructions. user friendly.
Thank you very much, I am glad you enjoy it.
Thank you for the feedback.
Dino
Keen to see your tinker shed renovations
I watch all your videos, very well explained 😊
Glad you like them! Thank you for your feedback.
Dino
The 3rd adjustment is on the splined shaft on the clutch housing. That’s why it’s splined to begin with
Great video Dino!
I personally prefer to adjust the friction point, and just leave the free play where it ends up. I like to have the clutch just fully disengaged when the lever is pulled against my gloved ring and pinky fingers (using my index and middle fingers to pull the lever). This can result in the freeplay being a little bit on the tight side, but I find it more consistent and controllable when making panic shifts/stops, particularly off-road.
What I really need is lever with adjustable reach... but I didn't buy a DR because I like to spend money unnecessarily! 😁
I don't disagree with your philosophy, I actually run mine with a little less that 10mm myself, however I wanted the video to reflect the way the manual specified the process so new riders would have a baseline to set the clutch up with repeatable results. I think as a person rides more they will come to a point where they will fine tune the lever to their liking. I am hoping the video provided the foundation to make more refined adjustments in the future for those who choose to do so.
Thank you for the great feedback.
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed Agreed, best to show the manufacturers recommend setting in the video.
i didn't marked the clutch arm, now i know how to fix that. thanx
My DR seemed to have the right freeplay, but I felt like it didn’t shift as smoothly as it should as if clutch wasn’t completely disangaging. I removed a bit of freeplay and it now shifts better.
Sometimes that will happen, and I should have mentioned that. I find also that if you shift with only one or two fingers the clutch may drag a bit because the clutch is not pulled right to the bar because of the remaining fingers grasping the bar and stopping full articulation. Not sure if this is what is happening with yours but I should have mentioned this in the video
Thank you for the great feedback.
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed It's still not 100% perfect, but 75% better. My friends 2011 with 20000km (mine is a 2018 with 12000km) shifts so smooth its ridiculous, up and down you can barely feel the gears. On mine sometimes its silky smooth, sometimes I feel like its a bit rougher than I'd like (and I make sure to fully pull the clutch and I've ridden over 300000km on motorcycles so I'm pretty sure it's not my technique hehe). Maybe it's been used for hardcore offroading and clutch has been abused more than normal for the km...
@@Speedytrip Mine is brand new and has similar issues.
Could you make a video on how to check and adjust the spokes the wheels?
Thanks for the vids, love the bike vids. take care, from N.B.
Always interested in other ppls sheds and their use of space
Such a useful video, really enjoy these
Hi Dino could you possibly make a video on the accelerator and decelerator cable adjustment?
Yes, that is a great suggestion, thank you for taking the time to make it.
Dino
Just when I need it .....
Regards from Monterrey México.
Glad to help out
Dino
You are the best, Dino. Love all your videos. How are you liking the new amazon hand guards?
Thank you, I'm so happy you enjoy the videos, so far the guards are good. I have not really put them to the test yet but will do a follow up once I get some more miles on them.
Thanks again .
Dino
muy bien explicado ! te sigo desde Chile
Thank you, I am glad you enjoyed it, and thank you for following the channel.
Dino
Love your videos!
Excellent video 👍
Thank you very much!
Very instructive thankyou.
Thanks I to luv your vids... I just did nsu fix and it went smooth except when I hooked the clutch link back and notice there's hardly no pressure on clutch lever .. I haven't added oil back yet because trying to make sure I won't need to empty it out again because I'm not confident I have the clutch engagement correct (lil thing with grooves that slides into thing with spinning rod that clutch link connects to) I did use a sharpie to mark where link attached top of the case .. I had trouble getting it to line up.. I'm thinking that might have something to do with it ... and inference would be appreciated .. thanks again for the great guides!
Thank you for the comment and question, I always point out I am not a mechanic but will put in my thoughts. I would think you have something not assembled right inside. I did the same thing when I did my clutch and it would not release. I would open it up and check to make sure all the friction and steels are tight to each other, there should ne no gaps in the pack once assembled.
I hope this helps.
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed I think when I marked top with sharpie it was rotated out of synch. Id swear I turned it and this would not have been wise unless was also marked on case. I also figured I had moved the throttle cable. After unhooking the cable from both sides lever and case link .. I then reconnected both and now clutch actually feels normal with slight play before engaging... thanks!
Amazing.. thanks 👍
I wish u were my daddy 😂 only just found you, subscribed , and watched a ship load. Learning heaps. Cheers 🍻
Glad you like the content, and thank you for the kind words.
Dino
When should the friction zone be? Mine is right at if you where to bend your fingers at the second knuckle everything is within standards
I think each clutch is a bit different, but my clutch starts to "drag" and engage About 1-1.5cm off the bar and fully engage once all the free play is taken up.
Dino
If you measure the gap between the lever and the clutch perch it doesn't matter how long the levers are.
Thank you for the input for sure, this is true but most new dr650 owners still have the hand guards in place which makes the gap method difficult to do without removing the hand guards. Again, this video was the basic factory method for new owners to get rolling, as they ride more they will undoughtabley learn more sifistocated methods.
Thank you for the comment.
Dino
Ive got an odd issue with my clutch. Brand new plates (replaced end of last season), engages well, seems good but 4th and 5th slip at the higher rpms. Any ideas? I just adjusted the clutch cable according to this video and released some of the cable pressure... but im beginning to question oil as i have been told they can contribute and i do use synth oil in the bike. Anyhow, thanks for a good video. This seems to have just begun happening btw, rode quite a bit till very end of season and some in winter, but now its certainly slipping.
When I installed my clutch I started with motul full synthetic oil and the clutch was really grabby on engagement. I switched to shell Rotella t4 and the clutch is operating much better. I would try a different oil and see if that helps, you could also add a bit more free play but then you risk the clutch not fully disengaging.
@@DinosTinkerShed Seems that the adjustment did the trick though i will change oil and use the same as you... rotella t4. I just backed down the adjust a little bit and added in the free play you spoke about in the video and its perfect.
I have an 08 with only 1100 miles and I’m nearing the end of adjustment at both locations. Could the cable be stretched or something since I can’t seem to get enough free play with those adjustments?
Can you take the actual arm off of the clutch case and move it over one tooth?
Liked and subscribed. Thanks.
Awesome, thank you!
Dino
Hey Dino, I am working on setting my clutch tension and notice that when doing it as you’ve suggested there is a little “slop” on the lever. Meaning that after releasing the clutch there can be a slight gap between the clutch lever and where it sits on the control. Is this acceptable? Thank you!
Yep, that's how it should be, that's your free play, great question.
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShedthanks Dino! You’re the man!
Hey Dino,
I've been inspecting my clutch pack and reinstalled it (it was well within spec). I now have a very heavy clutch pull? Original springs, discs, metal plates are installed. Evenly and cross pattern torqued to 10nm as per manual. The bike's been sitting on a lift for three weeks, with the clutch lid of. Is this something I can fix with the clutch cable, or are my plates just dry or something? A collegue of mine reminded me if put the #2 plate, which is thicker, first. And I'm doubting if I did, or last. If I did it last, could this cause a heavy clutch?
I've been playing around with the cable length, but slack or not, I still have a heavy clutch pull and it just doesn't disengage enough. I can turn the wheel in 1st gear with the clutch lever pulled in, albeit heavy to do so. You definitely have to push through friction. This is also the case walking the bike around in gear with the lever pushed in all the way.
(hypothesis: is this normal and does it just need to oil up for the friction to go away? Side note: Bike won't start at the moment after carb clean/clutch inspection so I can only check with cold oil at the moment. The engine is turning but no ignition at the moment. I have to pull the new spark plugs and see if they work at all.)
Any insight or guess at this matter will be much appreciated!
Ron
Ron, I am sorry to hear that you are having issues with your DR. I just want to say that I am not a mechanic so take my advice with a grain of salt. When I have issues like this (take something apart, clean it, reassemble and it does not work) I always retrace my steps and also try to eliminate potential causes from sub systems (like the cable). To eliminate the cable, I would disconnect it from the clutch arm down at the case cover, you can then cycle the cable and feel if there is any unusual resistance or friction. If the cable seems to move freely then I would suspect the clutch pack is assembled incorrectly. I did this in my video on changing the DR clutch, when I re assembled the clutch the first time I did not seat the basket correctly and ended up with one or two of the friction dicks being "pinned" between the two halves of the basket. This meant that the clutch could not fully compress and there were gaps between the plates. I noticed this before I reinstalled the pack so I do not know how it would impact clutch pull, but I do believe that if the clutch worked correctly before you took it apart then most likely something is not assembled correctly.
I hope this helps, if you still need more help, I suggest posting the question on DRriders, this forum is full of smarter folk than me and they love to help out with issues like this.
Eather way, please let me know how you make out.
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShedThank you for sharing. A wrongly installed pack seems highly likely.
*cries*
Plus point is that I can check if the #2 steel is inserted correctly. Bummer because The Netherlands has a big problem getting a proper gasket for a '92 since Europe hasn't sold a DR since +/- 2008. I'm not against liquid sealant, but they require a long dry periode, especially now in the winter.
I agree with the sealant, I prefer to use it only as a bonding agent for the gasket but if needed I will use it alone if I have no other choice. Good luck, please let me know how you make out.
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed Hey Dino,
Well the DR is back from the shop... and boy did I mess it up good. While trying to fix the sticking and heavy clutch, I probably moved the timing chain and possibly the gears as well. My whole timing was 90° off and the bike would have never started. I thought it might be the carburator, so I send it in for a tune-up and tire change while it was already there, as I was at my end guessing what was wrong.
Oh boy, the cost of repair was almost what I bought the bike for but I choose to let them fix it. Otherwise I'd be throwing away too much money anyway. I'm now officially married for live to the DR. I damaged the starter clutch with the timing being off. Apparently it was already worn, but I gave it it's final push. A lot of expensive gears grinded and they eventually tore open the entire bike fixing and cleaning it, properly aligning the timing and valves, changing gears and what not.
The liquid seal didn't hold as the damaged edges I caused (I overlooked a bolt and started hammering and prying the lid off) were too deep and they caused a hundred meter long oil spill after they serviced the bike and used some liquid seal together with the gasket while riding the bike. They used liquid metal to fill up the gaps. Luckily I was spared the cleaning costs. Carburateur was fine though! Yesterday I took it out for a spin. Slapped MotOZ RallZ tires on and did some stretched of sand. All good now!
WOW, that is terrible, I am glad your DR is repaired but that is not fun at all. I hope this does not turn you away from home repairs. I have retimed my DR before when I had my head off to re-ring it at around 40k, just curious, did you have the lower cam chain gear off?
Dino
You do this with tue bars straight right?
Correct, I should have mentioned that, thank you for catching that.
Dino
This is not what a clutch adjustment is about and it's not the correct way of doing it. Clutch adjustment should be done what's the bike off the ground and the motor running while in gear. When the clutch lever is pulled in the rear wheel should come to a complete stop. This is how you know the clutch is not slipping. You make clutch adjustments until this is achieved that means the rear wheel does not move. That's how you know the clutch is not slipping
So somehow I snapped the clutch cable on my DR at the break lever. (I suspect sabotage but thats probly a conspiracy) I replaced the clutch cable but now the clutch never engages when I pull lever. I was stupid and didn't mark the little arm before I took it off. How do get enough travel to fully engage the clutch when I pull lever" It is possible I just get a shit cable.