I've never gotten around to cleaning and lubing my cables, but you make it seem like a pretty straight forward job. Maybe I'll have to get off my ass and knock that out. As always, appreciate the videos, Mark!
Thanks Mark. I see chain lube works for you, that's what I was wondering as in whether it would be too tacky and gum up. I bought some "Honda" chain lube with white graphite which the shop said doesn't go tacky so here goes nothing! Cheers Glenn.
I like it . Seen some of those guy's crossing the continent and such (professionals ?) , run an extra cable along side for the inevitable breakage . A tie rap here and there along with a spare leaver in the kit . Seams like a good idea done before the big ride , or something to think about on the long ride when you could be enjoying the trip ; - ) Thanks
shannon james .. extra cable and lever.. a must.. replace before bad and use as back ups.... Great message, thank you Robert Jr NJ here Asbury Park and the pine barrens, United States and XR 650 owner.
Mark great video. Make sure you lock the cable adjuster with the 10 mm nut that is on the other end of the spline. I saw it there but you didn't show you locking it down in the video. Also that oiler needs to be used on your throttle cables.
Hello my dear friend. I would like to ask a great favor. I live in Patagonia. Chile. I have a DR 650 SE motorbike and I have to change the starting heating pad for the motorbike. Do you have any video of what you could tell me about? I am infinitely grateful.
Hi Mark, i looked into the Dr650 clutch pull and guys are using drz400 clutch actuators down on the motor the drz400 ones are a bit longer to improve the leverage ratio which would make it a bit lighter. Cheers Glen,
Haven't tried one myself but there is a product called a clutch easy puller that attaches to your cable then to the handle. Supposed to make it easier to use the clutch?
I went through all the steps but when it came to tightening the cable again it is not working. I turn and turn but it does not get tighter? PLEASE HELP!!
Veteran HUBBer Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Wirral, England. Posts: 5,422 All new cables on motorcycles from 90s onwards (maybe earlier as suggested) are indeed teflon lined and factory greased. If yours are sticking, they are WORN and can not be revived. You can oil them but this will be a temporary fix as in time, the oil will glog and gunk up and just make things worse. All you can do is replace them
that cable luber worked well. great video
Thanks for the video. I'm going to do this on my DR.
Thank you for all your videos, makes daunting tasks like the bearing replacement, fork maintenance and much else less scary.
My pleasure mate! :-)
Great vid mark keep them coming
+Albert heaton Thanks Albert :-)
Great demo, Mark 👍
I've always wondered how those bloody things worked! Cheers!.
+billy4rocks My pleasure mate! :-)
I've never gotten around to cleaning and lubing my cables, but you make it seem like a pretty straight forward job. Maybe I'll have to get off my ass and knock that out. As always, appreciate the videos, Mark!
+dustysquito Thanks mate and good Onya! :-)
Nice, I'm going to have to get an oiler like that. Pretty cool, never seen one before. Thanks for the vid!
Thanks Mark. I see chain lube works for you, that's what I was wondering as in whether it would be too tacky and gum up. I bought some "Honda" chain lube with white graphite which the shop said doesn't go tacky so here goes nothing! Cheers Glenn.
+DR HYME TREBLOC Cool... that Honda lube sounds good! :-)
I like it . Seen some of those guy's crossing the continent and such (professionals ?) , run an extra cable along side for the inevitable breakage . A tie rap here and there along with a spare leaver in the kit . Seams like a good idea done before the big ride , or something to think about on the long ride when you could be enjoying the trip ; - ) Thanks
+shannon james Cool Bananas! :-)
shannon james .. extra cable and lever.. a must.. replace before bad and use as back ups.... Great message, thank you Robert Jr NJ here Asbury Park and the pine barrens, United States and XR 650 owner.
Sweet that mate.
Mark great video. Make sure you lock the cable adjuster with the 10 mm nut that is on the other end of the spline. I saw it there but you didn't show you locking it down in the video. Also that oiler needs to be used on your throttle cables.
+Luzianna Long Thanks heaps mate... nice pickup :-)
Good job, we have one from motion pro and it works really good! *T4S*
graphite in cables .
Hello my dear friend. I would like to ask a great favor. I live in Patagonia. Chile. I have a DR 650 SE motorbike and I have to change the starting heating pad for the motorbike. Do you have any video of what you could tell me about? I am infinitely grateful.
Sorry I don't!
Hi Mark, i looked into the Dr650 clutch pull and guys are using drz400 clutch actuators down on the motor the drz400 ones are a bit longer to improve the leverage ratio which would make it a bit lighter. Cheers Glen,
Those are neat little spotlights, what brand are they?
+FiftyRacer No Brand... off EBay :-)
Haven't tried one myself but there is a product called a clutch easy puller that attaches to your cable then to the handle. Supposed to make it easier to use the clutch?
+Chris Z Cool Bananas... thanks :-)
Good show!
Maybe one day you may like to try a set of the adjustable levers with the different pull length settings.
Be safe!
I went through all the steps but when it came to tightening the cable again it is not working. I turn and turn but it does not get tighter? PLEASE HELP!!
I use inox
+advrider777 Cool Bananas! :-)
Veteran HUBBer
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Wirral, England.
Posts: 5,422
All new cables on motorcycles from 90s onwards (maybe earlier as suggested) are indeed teflon lined and factory greased.
If yours are sticking, they are WORN and can not be revived. You can oil them but this will be a temporary fix as in time, the oil will glog and gunk up and just make things worse.
All you can do is replace them
and you didnt swear once😂🤣
You supposed to lub the leaver as well as the nut.
right o first again
:-)