You might want to check out this video " How to Perform wheel alignment by yourself". I try something similar. It got my alignment real close and stop me from burning up tires.
The rear wheels need to run parallel with the frame. They don't really need to be exactly one behind the other. In other words, if both rear wheels on the same side are parallel with the frame, but one runs say 1/4" further out from the frame, they are still running straight ahead. I use a lazer level with two C clamps fitted so the screw portion of the C clamp fits against the rim and holds the level an equal distance front and back of the rim (this allows me to clear the hubs and I have aluminum wheels). Then I have 2 measurement sticks on magnets I stick to the frame. I put one under the door and one near the front frame slot. When the lazer shows the same distance from the frame on both sticks, then I know the wheel is parallel with the frame. Do the same for each rear wheel and you will know each wheel is running straight ahead. You can do the same thing with the front wheels for toe and then you will have zero toe. JWID
Hey you also have to make sure you are still align with the front wheels. Did you make sure you don't any bushing or bearing that are going bad? If no please stop.
Great points. I've only found 2 shops that will consider doing a 4-way alignment on this for me, one is 100 mile drive and the other is 400 miles. Also, they will only shim the rear so I wanted to at least get the rear wheels aligned with each other. I don't have any play in the bogie arm at the pin so that seems to be fine but maybe that will be a future video.
Please upload more videos, thank you.
Thanks for the feedback! I'll add new videos as I take on new projects.
You might want to check out this video " How to Perform wheel alignment by yourself". I try something similar. It got my alignment real close and stop me from burning up tires.
Do not attempt to change ANYTHING until you install new pins and bushings in the boggie arms!
The rear wheels need to run parallel with the frame. They don't really need to be exactly one behind the other. In other words, if both rear wheels on the same side are parallel with the frame, but one runs say 1/4" further out from the frame, they are still running straight ahead. I use a lazer level with two C clamps fitted so the screw portion of the C clamp fits against the rim and holds the level an equal distance front and back of the rim (this allows me to clear the hubs and I have aluminum wheels). Then I have 2 measurement sticks on magnets I stick to the frame. I put one under the door and one near the front frame slot. When the lazer shows the same distance from the frame on both sticks, then I know the wheel is parallel with the frame. Do the same for each rear wheel and you will know each wheel is running straight ahead. You can do the same thing with the front wheels for toe and then you will have zero toe. JWID
Great recommendation and the laser level is a simple, low cost way to make sure each wheel is aligned to the frame. Thanks!
Hey you also have to make sure you are still align with the front wheels. Did you make sure you don't any bushing or bearing that are going bad? If no please stop.
Great points. I've only found 2 shops that will consider doing a 4-way alignment on this for me, one is 100 mile drive and the other is 400 miles. Also, they will only shim the rear so I wanted to at least get the rear wheels aligned with each other. I don't have any play in the bogie arm at the pin so that seems to be fine but maybe that will be a future video.