What are your best suggestions for the materials we should try next? Any tips on how we could make the glass blades less explodey?? Also, here's a link to the wood saw blade video in case you missed it: bit.ly/446R546
I think the two best solutions to get glass to not shatter would be 1. Smaller diameter blade (much less inertia and therefor stress on the blade) and 2. A method to actually control the rpm and spin it slower (just like what the foot pedal was supposed to do).
You don't need to have the blade be the fully 12" or whatever. The centrifugal forces are way higher. Instead, you should have made the blade just big enough to cut through the 1x1 (or whatever it was). This would dramatically reduce the forces on the blade.
@@cohcam2113 There are thee main lines of force. There is the main torque of the shaft attempting to rotate the blade around the axis of the shaft. There is also a centripetal /centrifugal force of the atoms of the blade wanting to continue their linear motion away from the axis while being pulled back into a rotational motion by rest of the atoms of the blade. Finally, there are rotation forces perpendicular to the shaft bending the glass in towards the shaft as a result of gyroscopic precession if blade isn't perfectly aligned with the axis of rotation (e.g. it's not flat or it's not perfectly perpendicular). At low speeds, the rotational force is the primary force as it tries to overcome to rotational inertia of the blade. As the blade speeds up, the centripetal/centrifugal forces and gyroscopic forces increase. Decreasing the rate of acceleration of the rotation of the axle reduces its torque. The other two forces are perpendicular to this and depend only on the overall rate of rotation and the geometry. The only way to avoid the disc pulling itself apart at high speeds is to reduce the final speed. This is why small grinding discs and even large metal saw blades specify a maximum RPM. More than that and the blade will both wobble violently and try to pull itself apart radially.
@@cohcam2113 Maybe if it was sharply snapping on and cracking at the start, or if it helped dampen vibrations. I think you're going to have the most trouble when the glass hits the wood, though.
In the future if you test more fragile materials, I think you should add a flare to the bottom of your handle. As it is right now there is a gap in the safety box where the handle is and if you're holding the handle while a blade shatters (although unlikely) a small piece could potentially fly out and hit your hand causes a pretty nasty wound. Judging from this and past videos I know it wouldn't be too much trouble for you guys as you could use pretty much any material from rubber to Poly carb glass and it would work to shield that gap
I think the shaft of the motor was slamming into the glass from start up, and the weight of the glass was resisting the motion. So that was like an immense amount of pressure on a tiny area, you could make this work with a plastic bushing
A big reason your first blades might have additional stress is because the hole you cut in the middle of the blade is round while the fit for the blade has some edges on it - its not a cirlce. This would have caused a worse fit and additional vibrations as the fit was not tight
There were two obvious cracks starting from the hole with the first glass blade. It was obvious those cracks would propagate at the merest hint to centripetal force. edit: the second blade was cracked from get-go too! You cannot have any weak points in the glass or it will crack further! Glass isn't really strong in stretching or bending, only compression like concrete.
this was driving me crazy (on a side note it is are to pierce glass without having a crack form i have always used hollow diamond style hole saw with water flowing through it to flush out the glass as i go still a pain but i think the waterjet is just to violent)
One thing to consider when making a sawblade is the kerf (the actual gap you're taking out of the material). Saw blades, be they circular or hand, tend to have flared out (or 'set') teeth, which cut a wider kerf than the width of the blade body. This is to reduce the friction (and heat) the blade experiences when it passes through the material, as only the teeth (ideally) are in contact, as opposed to the body of the blade and the teeth. If you can figure out a way to either make the teeth thicker, or reduce the thickness of the rest of the blade after cutting it out, you might have some more success with materials that expand when they heat up.
Cut the blade and then take a rotary sander to it to bring the thickness down on both sides. Combined with making the blade smaller to reduce the centripetal force and reinforcing the mounting point before the cut with the super tape to hopefully prevent any small fractures at the beginning, you could quite possibly end up with a blade that doesn’t instantly explode fragments of death.
I love nothing more than coming home from work settling in for the night with a smoke and your videos, im slowly working my way through your older content now. Keep up the good work!
Make the center of the blade out of metal, like the washer. Maybe with the jet make the outline of this center piece some kind of pattern that will fit with the outer piece of the blade made out of glass or whatever. Or just glue both parts together, I think it would be a good idea to prevent the pressure of the tightening bolt from damaging the material being tested. Great video.
@@drantigon Definitely ceramic, but granite is not uniform and has grain boundaries which might be weaker than some of the grains, leading to crack propagation
GUYS BUY A VARIAC FOR THIS YOULL SAVE THE GLASS , you can get a cheap one for $50. it lets you control how much mains voltage you send to the saw. This way you can turn the knob up slowly to reach mains voltage of 110volts. that way it doesnt start at max speed, cracking the glass. start at like 30 volts, then slowly turn up the speed so it doesnt shock the glass so hard at max speed
@@GRosa250 Possible, but can a dimmer drive an 10 amp inductive load? I dont think most dimmers are designed to offer that amps. and a saw is an inductive load because of the coil in it, and that can trip certain protection circuit a variac, even a cheap one can push 20 amps.
you could have tried putting a variac on the saw. i'd think maybe a variac would bring the speed up slowly enough. perhaps its something to think about with future experiments. loving these vids!
You need to use stronger glass, like crystal or polarized glass (different layers with opposite polarization). Also make the blade thicker at the center/middle, so that it can withstand the centrifugal forces. Also you should try a different saw, this one's geometry seems to be causing problems. Don't give up on your dream man.
Small Tip for next time, if you use brittle materials. Maybe use an electric soft starter to slowly spin the blade to speed, it seems that the inertia cracked it right from the beginning. You could use a potentiometer as a soft starter, if its big enough to handel the wattage or go the expensive route and get a controller from SEW or other companies.
I like the idea I saw of the fiber washer adhered to the glass blade, I feel you should also insert a rubber or silicone grommet in the center hole of the blade to account for micro vibrations against the center shaft. Those vibration I feel are the likely culprit to every glass blade failing since all of the fractures radiated from center instead of from the area that the screw was scratching. more evidence it seems towards the center of the blade being the issue is in the final slow motion shot, you can see the blade isn't spinning in a perfect circle, likely from glass chipping away from the center.
It would be tough to have a grommet at the center and still center the blade so it doesn't wobble. At those speeds, you need a balanced and centered blade.
Use a variac to spin the motor up slowly and to a lower rpm. As for the self-tightening nut, jet the center hole for your blade oversized and fit it over a solid bushing which is slightly wider than your blade. The nut will tighten to a stop against the bushing and your rubber washers will be doing all the work transferring the torque into the blade. Definitely do something about that protruding screw nonsense lol. And also you might try hand drilling the starting hole for the center of the blade if it was the piercing operation that caused the cracks right out of the jet.
Variac : you need a variac to try and start the saw more slowly. Although there is still a chance that your particular saw may only operate at full power though (a.k.a. full chooch)
lol, i love how me and you both said variacs. I managed to be like comment 10. But what I love about it, is we are both named Joshua, telling him to get variacs.
A variac will sort of work, but once you get to sufficient voltage it will still accerlate quickly. The speed of an AC motor varies with frequency not voltage, so a VFD (Variable Frequency Drive) would be ideal.
If you make resin stabilized wood you should not only be able to make a much harder blade, but you can actually sharpen it. Alternatively, glue a bunch of paper together. Something like 30 layers of 110lb card stock. Also, a note, super glue bonds too hard, it has no give, and so in any application that needs even the tiniest amount of flex, it just breaks. That's why poly acrylic glues are so good at their job, they are ever so slightly flexible when bonded. I have used a simple acrylic gorilla glue to bond glass to metal in applications where heat expansion exists, and it holds amazingly.
Glass is really bad with these kinds of stresses. Maybe tempered glass? Like you'd find as very thin screen protectors for example. They're so flexible, they feel more like plastic.
I thought tempered glass is harder, but more brittle. So the way is to use, on the country, a more flexible, less brittle material like translucent plastic.
Tempered glass would explode into a million pieces as soon they try to cut a blade out of it on the pressure washer. Having said that, I would totally suggest them trying it. Would make a for a fun video haha.
Guys, You need to choose a machine equipped with a soft start feature so that you don't shock the glass blade and shatter it when the motor starts up !
your point of failure is also the most important aspect of making a saw blade of any material, accuracy of motor shaft hole size, location and how clean cut the hole is. It needs to be perfect!!!
Try making a blade purely out of packing tape. Y'all remember making sculptures in art class that were just packing tape? Those things were surprisingly strong. Bonus points if you use exclusively that tape with the fibers in it that you used for the lexan box. Make sure you make it with the fibers going in all sorts of different directions if you do.
I think you may have been able to get more results if you found a way to add glass teeth to a metal blade so that the centrifugal force doesn't obliterate the support? I don't have experience with these materials, just throwing out some suggestions i thought might be interesting for another video like this. Maybe even a housing for the glass blade that places the stress on the sides of the blade instead of the center?
Ceramic tile next please, if possible try to get a Zirconium tile. I work at Leitz Tooling, we make diamond tipped saw blades, the 'diamond' material is a Zirconium based ceramic. So I'd be highly interested to see what a full blade made of the stuff would be like. 2 suggestions I have are. Change the geometry of the blade to give a negative 5° hook angle to the teeth. It will put the blade through less stress when cutting, it is commonly done on metal cutting blades for that reason. Cut a 30mm bore hole in the glass, then epoxy in an aluminium bushing, that will probably help with the vibration.
As other commenters said, you need a way to transfer the force from the hub into the glass without creating any point forces. Spinning up slowly would probably help, but I would also consider an insert of some different material, fitted or glued in, perhaps even with a similar kind of wavy pattern as the last blade had on the outside. This will also make sure the blade is properly centered, because in the slowmotion footage, it doesn't look like it is (or perhaps it's not balanced), which causes a lot of vibration.
Working in a Glass plant i can tell you why your first one failed. The Blade had a vent (crack) at the hole where you mounted the blade. Glass is extremely fragile when its vented. Sometimes it explodes when not moving. Cant have any or it will blow up. You can cut alot of things with glass and your first design was probably your best option. Just need to get the blade in 1 peice.
I’d liked to see carbon fiber hardened with epoxy. Idk which weave would be best or the hardness of carbon fiber, but I know it has good impact strength.
You should do a collaborative video with Dan and Mitchell from “The WaterJet Channel” I feel like those guys know more about how to use a waterjet to not crack glass
I noticed the arbor hole of the glass blades was seemingly drilled rather than cut also with the water jet. it clearly had cracks around it which likely were the beginnings of the explosive failure before you even started.
If you guys try out concrete consider using some of that wire mesh for window screens as reinforcement. Just a fyi but the portland cement on its own is stronger than with substrate in it. Probably don't even need teeth on it just a straight wheel and it already has all the abrasive you could want.
"I thought for sure that tape was going to hold it, especially with the super glue". That explains a lot. Stress concentrations in the teeth are not the problem. It's the stress concentrations caused by the cracks in the arbor hole. All it takes is a little vibration for them to propagate through the whole blade. Eliminate those when cutting that hole and you might have a fighting chance of getting the blade to survive long enough to at least make contact with the wood before exploding.
many uggestions. 1: Watch everything in your process more carefully (that cover a lot ...like the screw that you should have caught at the beginning) 2: Come up with a cutter design that's more aggressive. There should not be a need to use silicon carbide . Maybe something closer to your first iteration but closer to the look of gear teeth. maybe a right angle at the front of the cutter and a slope in the back for strength. 3: Get a torque wrench & start paying attention to your torque wrench settings. go ahead & break a test blade so you know about where the glass will crack when tightening. 4: Get control over the speed of the saw. If you can't find something. it's cheep enough to make a little outlet box with a dimmer switch. I have one I made using a two-outlet box to put two outlets on one side & the dimmer switch on the other. This comes in handy for lamps & many other things you wish you had adjust ability on. 5: Try Pyrex. That's about all I got. I know I probably sounded snotty or even condescending but I don't care. ...much I'm approaching 50 so I'm starting to feel entitled to it. If you don't like it... GFY! lol
One thing I might suggest is you use High Speed Steel for most of your blade, make the teeth of the blade out of tungsten carbide and induction braze the teeth onto the disc. Nice video though.
My humble opinion is that the glass blade not only will require the rubber washers, but also a rubber shield for the center spindle, steel as it is, to buffer in identical fashion as the rubber washers facilitate. Protect the glass blade from the center, as much as the sides, and show us what, if any, difference it makes.
I would recommend to use water when you start the glass, this way it will remove the vibrations caused by the different weights of the different places on the glass disc further i would use some kind of soft gap filler for the gap between the disc and the middle of the spinning disc - mitigating vibrations
Glass is great depending on how you use it. Grinding glass with wet diamond weeks is dine at around 900 rpm where steel bench grinder runs at 3609 rpm.
think i saw cracks in the hole to begin with, might be a good idea to buy some diamond coated hole drills for glass, drill them halfway then turn the piece so you dont rip chunks off the surface to keep it as intact as possible. also grind the sharp edges away from the hole to make it more durable. make the hole bigger than the shaft, then epoxy some metal bushings to both sides of the glass. i mean if you have access to waterjet, you should be able to make replacement metal bushings too. also for the metal bushings, make the hole in em with the flats so the motor is turning the bushings and the larger diameter glue is turning the glass. that way the shaft isnt grinding against the glass and the forces are not as concentrated. also if possible balance the blade to reduce high speed vibrations. lastly, compression does crack glass so if you screw it on too tight, it will shatter. the metal bushings should alleviate that as they turn with the shaft so the screw doesnt get tighter as it turns. but that also means you might risk it coming loose so take care.
Even if conditions were perfect, glass is weak enough that you might also be brushing up against the point where it's literally spinning itself apart. Assuming I found the right numbers, standard glass will fail when spinning at ~53m/s, which can be reached quite easily on the edge of a saw blade.
Try using a titanium alloy with a thin layer of carbon fiber and make sure it gets a flow of water to keep it cool. Oh, but the tips of the blade are sapphire
Instead of sinusidial shape just go for straight round shape, covering the blade in sharp stuff with two component glue. For the first two attempts you might cut the teeth at an angle alternately, probably just using triangles than the saw teeth... so each triangle tooth just alternates between left and right cutting with a sharper angle than just 90 degrees, say 80 or even 70 degrees. Problem with glass is that ANY little tiny fraction WILL expand under force - and rotational force you apply more than enough. Lastly the reason why the electronic speed regulator did not work as intended. My guess would be that it was built for a smaller power tool, making it just to an effective switch when you used it with this big saw. You might need an electronic that either supports more wattage, or you should look for a soft starter which at least would lengthen the start time. This might help with this task. Oh, and a lot of applied pressure is also bad with brittle material.
Not sure if your waterjet has the ultra pierce option, but that would help prevent the glass from cracking when starting a cut in the middle. We recently got a Mach 100 where I work and all we cut on it is glass.
Normal saw blades have teeth made of pieces of metal attached to the rest of the blade. If you did this with the glass blade, it would help reduce concentrated pressure on the cutting edge to reduce cracks
Vibrations are the problem, you need cuts in your sawblade so it can reduce vibrations, glass would be hard enough to cut wood. But it cant withstand tension and vibration. Eventough you have strong thermic production
Gentlemen. Love your tenacity and innovation. However, one thing you've not observed is that metal blades, - even hand saw blades - have their teeth bent in small increments to either side, and are not completely vertical. This is called the "set". IOW, one tooth leans slightly to port, the next leans slightly starboard, ad finitum, until you get all the way around. This allows the blade to 'shed' the cuttings and continue smoothly without bogging down on the detritus caused by the cutting process (sawdust). Just a heads up from an old woodworking fart. Keep up the good work ! - Rev MFn Brown.
You might try an alternating chisle edge on the the glass, each probably at least an inch or two long, and taper the leading edges at least 50 degrees so that the blade slices in to the wood rather than rips or grinds, and between each cutting face put a little center cut ridge perhaps 1/4 inch long that is shorter than your edge blades. Spin your blade up slowly as to reduce shock, and once at speed let the weight of the machine do the cutting. As the blade spins each side will slice a bit and the center ridge will help eject the cut material. Might also try a triple lamination of glass with slightly thinner pieces, preferably of Pyrex or corning ware, which would allow for more flexablity and variation on the center cut to more effective remove waste. Alternately you might use a wandering knife edge so the sharp edge goes from a chisle point on one side of the glass to the other a couple of times. I would also recommend a metal spacer to go around the shaft of the bolt holding the blade to give it a smooth surface to seat on and to prevent over tightening cracking the core of the blade, just the thickness of the glass and half the rubber washers. You guys are doing great work.
For the grass blade try blown glass I'm sure you'd get pretty good results as for the wood blade try coating the tips of each tooth with some type of metal Another thought try heat treating the blade you made
Why is he editing every single sawblade instead of creating one blade and then rotating that feature around a center? Amazed you guys get any work done at all!
The whole blade doesn't need to be made of glass to show that glass teeth will cut wood. Use a steel blade trimmed down around the perimeter, and replace the perimeter with glass. Epoxy the two bits together. Also, solve the soft start issue cause that was not the glasses fault at all for the failure to cut.
Your initial toothed design would work a lot better if you were cutting along the grain. Might wanna check out the differences between a crosscut and a rip saw. You're putting this in a miter saw, which is primarily for cross cutting, that is cutting across the grain. Combination saw blades, that is blades meant for both cutting with or across the grain, often have have alternating angles on the cutting edge of the teeth.
If my understanding of glass matrix is correct you would need some kind of uniform heating after this to allow the new shape's stresses to be evenly distributed again. Doing this puts the glass into a kind of tension making it much more fragile.
What are your best suggestions for the materials we should try next? Any tips on how we could make the glass blades less explodey?? Also, here's a link to the wood saw blade video in case you missed it: bit.ly/446R546
Obsidian or sapphire
Next a paper saw blade
I think the two best solutions to get glass to not shatter would be 1. Smaller diameter blade (much less inertia and therefor stress on the blade) and 2. A method to actually control the rpm and spin it slower (just like what the foot pedal was supposed to do).
What "ramen + resin" mixture does one at least need to cut wood?
Cut Balsa wood instead
I have an silly idea.
Make a saw blade out of lexan. I’ve heard from a bedio it’s 250x Stronger than glass!
That is genious
That was my thought to
heres an idea: education
you'll need to put it on a cold saw.
But then what's he going to use as a shield?
You don't need to have the blade be the fully 12" or whatever. The centrifugal forces are way higher. Instead, you should have made the blade just big enough to cut through the 1x1 (or whatever it was). This would dramatically reduce the forces on the blade.
Do you think slowly bringing the blade up to speed would have helped? I was thinking it would. 🤔
@@cohcam2113 There are thee main lines of force. There is the main torque of the shaft attempting to rotate the blade around the axis of the shaft. There is also a centripetal /centrifugal force of the atoms of the blade wanting to continue their linear motion away from the axis while being pulled back into a rotational motion by rest of the atoms of the blade. Finally, there are rotation forces perpendicular to the shaft bending the glass in towards the shaft as a result of gyroscopic precession if blade isn't perfectly aligned with the axis of rotation (e.g. it's not flat or it's not perfectly perpendicular).
At low speeds, the rotational force is the primary force as it tries to overcome to rotational inertia of the blade.
As the blade speeds up, the centripetal/centrifugal forces and gyroscopic forces increase.
Decreasing the rate of acceleration of the rotation of the axle reduces its torque. The other two forces are perpendicular to this and depend only on the overall rate of rotation and the geometry. The only way to avoid the disc pulling itself apart at high speeds is to reduce the final speed. This is why small grinding discs and even large metal saw blades specify a maximum RPM. More than that and the blade will both wobble violently and try to pull itself apart radially.
@@cohcam2113 Maybe if it was sharply snapping on and cracking at the start, or if it helped dampen vibrations. I think you're going to have the most trouble when the glass hits the wood, though.
then to make the optimal object you just get a drill XD @fgbhrl4907
Alternative title: How to harness the explosive energy of breaking glass to split wood in half
Which is impressive
Also add "(gone sexual)" at the end
Too funny 😂
Alternative alternative title: p h y s I c s
@@nikorek1470what why
In the future if you test more fragile materials, I think you should add a flare to the bottom of your handle. As it is right now there is a gap in the safety box where the handle is and if you're holding the handle while a blade shatters (although unlikely) a small piece could potentially fly out and hit your hand causes a pretty nasty wound. Judging from this and past videos I know it wouldn't be too much trouble for you guys as you could use pretty much any material from rubber to Poly carb glass and it would work to shield that gap
There would be a certain amount of irony if they use a real saw blade as the handle flare
There would be a certain amount of irony if they use a real saw blade as the handle flare
Or they could just put a separate shield slide where the handle slides, making it so the gap is always closed..
Add an adittional guard that mounts to the handle so it travels with the handle. Also gloves
I think the shaft of the motor was slamming into the glass from start up, and the weight of the glass was resisting the motion. So that was like an immense amount of pressure on a tiny area, you could make this work with a plastic bushing
There's a screw that was rubbing against the blades, can see a good closeup at the end
Yeah. It totally wasn’t the cracks in literally the center of the blade lol
i was going to say something about this! kinda frustrating that he never did anything about that in this video.
Me and my dad make fishing lures out of balsa
@@CarXman1432 that's really cool!
A big reason your first blades might have additional stress is because the hole you cut in the middle of the blade is round while the fit for the blade has some edges on it - its not a cirlce. This would have caused a worse fit and additional vibrations as the fit was not tight
There were two obvious cracks starting from the hole with the first glass blade. It was obvious those cracks would propagate at the merest hint to centripetal force. edit: the second blade was cracked from get-go too! You cannot have any weak points in the glass or it will crack further! Glass isn't really strong in stretching or bending, only compression like concrete.
this was driving me crazy (on a side note it is are to pierce glass without having a crack form i have always used hollow diamond style hole saw with water flowing through it to flush out the glass as i go still a pain but i think the waterjet is just to violent)
@@wmose3694 yeah. I think you need to saw the center hole gently like you said.
333 👍
you would think something so obvious would be... well.. OBVIOUS
concrete sawblade
One thing to consider when making a sawblade is the kerf (the actual gap you're taking out of the material). Saw blades, be they circular or hand, tend to have flared out (or 'set') teeth, which cut a wider kerf than the width of the blade body. This is to reduce the friction (and heat) the blade experiences when it passes through the material, as only the teeth (ideally) are in contact, as opposed to the body of the blade and the teeth.
If you can figure out a way to either make the teeth thicker, or reduce the thickness of the rest of the blade after cutting it out, you might have some more success with materials that expand when they heat up.
Cut the blade and then take a rotary sander to it to bring the thickness down on both sides. Combined with making the blade smaller to reduce the centripetal force and reinforcing the mounting point before the cut with the super tape to hopefully prevent any small fractures at the beginning, you could quite possibly end up with a blade that doesn’t instantly explode fragments of death.
As a shower door installer/fabricator, this is the most fun thing I've seen someone do with some glass and a power saw.
Me to haha
I love nothing more than coming home from work settling in for the night with a smoke and your videos, im slowly working my way through your older content now. Keep up the good work!
As soon as I saw the Lexan my brain started screaming "Make the blade out of Lexan!". A virtually indestructible saw blade sounds lovely.
"Don't try this at home kids, try it at somebody else's house" - A responsible man
😂😂😂😂😂 most hilarious comment
Make the center of the blade out of metal, like the washer. Maybe with the jet make the outline of this center piece some kind of pattern that will fit with the outer piece of the blade made out of glass or whatever. Or just glue both parts together, I think it would be a good idea to prevent the pressure of the tightening bolt from damaging the material being tested. Great video.
A abrasive saw blade out of granite would be interesting
That made me think, ceramic could also be an option. Ceramic knives are also a thing, and they are more brittle, but pretty tough.
@@drantigon Definitely ceramic, but granite is not uniform and has grain boundaries which might be weaker than some of the grains, leading to crack propagation
Correction: use a prince Rupert's drop
Centrifugal forces will tear it open unfortunately. Maybe a different type of rock/mineral that's more uniform.
5:57 UHHH WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY THAT?
I can think of two possible meanings. But I don't know which was intended.
GUYS BUY A VARIAC FOR THIS YOULL SAVE THE GLASS , you can get a cheap one for $50. it lets you control how much mains voltage you send to the saw. This way you can turn the knob up slowly to reach mains voltage of 110volts. that way it doesnt start at max speed, cracking the glass. start at like 30 volts, then slowly turn up the speed so it doesnt shock the glass so hard at max speed
I was thinking a regular dimmer switch for lights would probably work and they’re a lot cheaper
@@GRosa250 Possible, but can a dimmer drive an 10 amp inductive load? I dont think most dimmers are designed to offer that amps. and a saw is an inductive load because of the coil in it, and that can trip certain protection circuit
a variac, even a cheap one can push 20 amps.
Don't they also go past mains voltage too like its a q variable transformer
The tape you used was meant to go the other direction (perpendicular to the joint instead of parallel). Has a much higher strength that way.
“Just over 14”
“Just like my girlfriend”
Caught me off guard lmao 💀
Mine too
you could have tried putting a variac on the saw. i'd think maybe a variac would bring the speed up slowly enough. perhaps its something to think about with future experiments. loving these vids!
You need to use stronger glass, like crystal or polarized glass (different layers with opposite polarization). Also make the blade thicker at the center/middle, so that it can withstand the centrifugal forces. Also you should try a different saw, this one's geometry seems to be causing problems.
Don't give up on your dream man.
Thicker in the center... I'm not sure how they would make that. Would be very difficult to cut properly.
why would the polarization of the glass matter?
@@CzarYe It makes it stronger in one direction.
@@drantigon Would have to do some glass work
Small Tip for next time, if you use brittle materials. Maybe use an electric soft starter to slowly spin the blade to speed, it seems that the inertia cracked it right from the beginning. You could use a potentiometer as a soft starter, if its big enough to handel the wattage or go the expensive route and get a controller from SEW or other companies.
This is comedy gold 😂 the delivery of everything you say is great
Really loving the method of storytelling you have put together!
I like the idea I saw of the fiber washer adhered to the glass blade, I feel you should also insert a rubber or silicone grommet in the center hole of the blade to account for micro vibrations against the center shaft. Those vibration I feel are the likely culprit to every glass blade failing since all of the fractures radiated from center instead of from the area that the screw was scratching. more evidence it seems towards the center of the blade being the issue is in the final slow motion shot, you can see the blade isn't spinning in a perfect circle, likely from glass chipping away from the center.
It would be tough to have a grommet at the center and still center the blade so it doesn't wobble. At those speeds, you need a balanced and centered blade.
@@surferdudemi True but better then the bare glass on metal contact, may increase the longevity of the blade by a few times.
Use a variac to spin the motor up slowly and to a lower rpm.
As for the self-tightening nut, jet the center hole for your blade oversized and fit it over a solid bushing which is slightly wider than your blade. The nut will tighten to a stop against the bushing and your rubber washers will be doing all the work transferring the torque into the blade. Definitely do something about that protruding screw nonsense lol.
And also you might try hand drilling the starting hole for the center of the blade if it was the piercing operation that caused the cracks right out of the jet.
Variac : you need a variac to try and start the saw more slowly. Although there is still a chance that your particular saw may only operate at full power though (a.k.a. full chooch)
lol, i love how me and you both said variacs. I managed to be like comment 10. But what I love about it, is we are both named Joshua, telling him to get variacs.
Saw has a brushed universal motor, a variac would definitely work for that.
Chooch is gonna chooch the pooch!
A variac will sort of work, but once you get to sufficient voltage it will still accerlate quickly. The speed of an AC motor varies with frequency not voltage, so a VFD (Variable Frequency Drive) would be ideal.
@TheMookie1590 great minds think alike. Josh's usually have great minds. Usually. I do dumb things sometimes.
If you make resin stabilized wood you should not only be able to make a much harder blade, but you can actually sharpen it.
Alternatively, glue a bunch of paper together. Something like 30 layers of 110lb card stock.
Also, a note, super glue bonds too hard, it has no give, and so in any application that needs even the tiniest amount of flex, it just breaks. That's why poly acrylic glues are so good at their job, they are ever so slightly flexible when bonded. I have used a simple acrylic gorilla glue to bond glass to metal in applications where heat expansion exists, and it holds amazingly.
Glass is really bad with these kinds of stresses.
Maybe tempered glass? Like you'd find as very thin screen protectors for example. They're so flexible, they feel more like plastic.
I thought tempered glass is harder, but more brittle.
So the way is to use, on the country, a more flexible, less brittle material like translucent plastic.
@@tatianaes3354 then there is laminated tempered glass. best of both.
You ain't gonna make a hole in a tempered glass.
Tempered glass would explode into a million pieces as soon they try to cut a blade out of it on the pressure washer. Having said that, I would totally suggest them trying it. Would make a for a fun video haha.
5:57 lady and gentleman we got em
Acrylic saw? Resin saw? Bone saw? Loved the series!
Bone saw? But can it cut through a femur in 28 seconds?
Guys, You need to choose a machine equipped with a soft start feature so that you don't shock the glass blade and shatter it when the motor starts up !
You could use a diamond coated hole saw, for tile and glass, to drill the hole and prevent cracking.
your point of failure is also the most important aspect of making a saw blade of any material, accuracy of motor shaft hole size, location and how clean cut the hole is. It needs to be perfect!!!
Try making a blade purely out of packing tape. Y'all remember making sculptures in art class that were just packing tape? Those things were surprisingly strong.
Bonus points if you use exclusively that tape with the fibers in it that you used for the lexan box. Make sure you make it with the fibers going in all sorts of different directions if you do.
Kudos to the jokes you be cracking. Absolutely straight comedy lol
I think you may have been able to get more results if you found a way to add glass teeth to a metal blade so that the centrifugal force doesn't obliterate the support? I don't have experience with these materials, just throwing out some suggestions i thought might be interesting for another video like this. Maybe even a housing for the glass blade that places the stress on the sides of the blade instead of the center?
Ceramic tile next please, if possible try to get a Zirconium tile.
I work at Leitz Tooling, we make diamond tipped saw blades, the 'diamond' material is a Zirconium based ceramic.
So I'd be highly interested to see what a full blade made of the stuff would be like.
2 suggestions I have are.
Change the geometry of the blade to give a negative 5° hook angle to the teeth.
It will put the blade through less stress when cutting, it is commonly done on metal cutting blades for that reason.
Cut a 30mm bore hole in the glass, then epoxy in an aluminium bushing, that will probably help with the vibration.
As other commenters said, you need a way to transfer the force from the hub into the glass without creating any point forces. Spinning up slowly would probably help, but I would also consider an insert of some different material, fitted or glued in, perhaps even with a similar kind of wavy pattern as the last blade had on the outside.
This will also make sure the blade is properly centered, because in the slowmotion footage, it doesn't look like it is (or perhaps it's not balanced), which causes a lot of vibration.
I think these experiments are good. You should continue until someone looses a eye.
13:41 bro turned into a minecraft villager
Man, the humor in this had me cackling. Great job.
New question; Can Can Cut Wood?
This
Happy to be part of the first million sub gang
I am a lady, not mostly gentleman. I found this to be thoroughly entertaining and laughed more than the average bear.
I saw this and just screamed NO at the top of my lungs
...in public
Fiberglass reinforced tape should be the universal duct-tape, not duct-tape, the world got it wrong.
I think duct tape should be duct tape. Everything else needs a new name
Working in a Glass plant i can tell you why your first one failed. The Blade had a vent (crack) at the hole where you mounted the blade. Glass is extremely fragile when its vented. Sometimes it explodes when not moving. Cant have any or it will blow up. You can cut alot of things with glass and your first design was probably your best option. Just need to get the blade in 1 peice.
any nonsense to kill time in order to make a 15min vid
I really appreciated the humor in this video, made me chuckle quite a few times
That 'saw blade' was cracked before you put it on. You mentioned you went to medical school?
I’d liked to see carbon fiber hardened with epoxy. Idk which weave would be best or the hardness of carbon fiber, but I know it has good impact strength.
I liked my own comment
Nice “rookie of the year” impression and clip… so quick but it brought back a ton of memories. Thanks!
You should do a collaborative video with Dan and Mitchell from “The WaterJet Channel” I feel like those guys know more about how to use a waterjet to not crack glass
I noticed the arbor hole of the glass blades was seemingly drilled rather than cut also with the water jet. it clearly had cracks around it which likely were the beginnings of the explosive failure before you even started.
There are so many ways you can define stupidity. This video is one of them.
Another option to try would be to make the inner part of the sawblade from a different material and only the outermost area (teeth) from glass
If you guys try out concrete consider using some of that wire mesh for window screens as reinforcement. Just a fyi but the portland cement on its own is stronger than with substrate in it. Probably don't even need teeth on it just a straight wheel and it already has all the abrasive you could want.
4:02 half expected steve austin to walk out
7:39 “can glass cut wood?” Whelp apparently yes..
"I thought for sure that tape was going to hold it, especially with the super glue". That explains a lot.
Stress concentrations in the teeth are not the problem. It's the stress concentrations caused by the cracks in the arbor hole. All it takes is a little vibration for them to propagate through the whole blade. Eliminate those when cutting that hole and you might have a fighting chance of getting the blade to survive long enough to at least make contact with the wood before exploding.
many uggestions.
1: Watch everything in your process more carefully (that cover a lot ...like the screw that you should have caught at the beginning)
2: Come up with a cutter design that's more aggressive. There should not be a need to use silicon carbide . Maybe something closer to your first iteration but closer to the look of gear teeth. maybe a right angle at the front of the cutter and a slope in the back for strength.
3: Get a torque wrench & start paying attention to your torque wrench settings. go ahead & break a test blade so you know about where the glass will crack when tightening.
4: Get control over the speed of the saw. If you can't find something. it's cheep enough to make a little outlet box with a dimmer switch. I have one I made using a two-outlet box to put two outlets on one side & the dimmer switch on the other. This comes in handy for lamps & many other things you wish you had adjust ability on.
5: Try Pyrex.
That's about all I got.
I know I probably sounded snotty or even condescending but I don't care. ...much
I'm approaching 50 so I'm starting to feel entitled to it.
If you don't like it... GFY!
lol
Hahaha. Thanks for the good advice.
You should try a composite blade next, either fibreglass or carbon fibre would be interesting!
4:01 if you grind it under water, it will less likely to break. you can even cut pieces with regular scissors and not shatter it.
This is the content I’ve been lookin for from this channel I love it!!!!!
Making a saw blade out of metal would be an interesting concept . LoL 😂
I recommend using a saw blade for cutting a standard 2x4.
5:56 LOOOOL 'measuring just over 14' 'so is my girlfriend'
One thing I might suggest is you use High Speed Steel for most of your blade, make the teeth of the blade out of tungsten carbide and induction braze the teeth onto the disc.
Nice video though.
My humble opinion is that the glass blade not only will require the rubber washers, but also a rubber shield for the center spindle, steel as it is, to buffer in identical fashion as the rubber washers facilitate.
Protect the glass blade from the center, as much as the sides, and show us what, if any, difference it makes.
Best laugh I've had in a while.. I'm like where's the Don't try this at home disclaimer as he says it
I would recommend to use water when you start the glass, this way it will remove the vibrations caused by the different weights of the different places on the glass disc further i would use some kind of soft gap filler for the gap between the disc and the middle of the spinning disc - mitigating vibrations
Glass is great depending on how you use it. Grinding glass with wet diamond weeks is dine at around 900 rpm where steel bench grinder runs at 3609 rpm.
I saw the title and thumbnail and be like, are you stupid ? 😂 And he said yes.. Thank you !!
The editing was top notch today
Wow that glass blade exploding and cutting the wood, you just created the most dangerous saw blade I’ve ever seen
Out of Ideas?: Frozen Jizz Blade, Frozen Feces Blade, 5 4k Blu-Rays Of Frozen stacken on top each other
Safety squints saved my eyes numerous times. Best purchase ever.
Also a quick congrats on 1MILLION SUBSCRUBSIORS. My first time seeing your channel, still very impressive none the less! Cheers!🎉
this saw is pure "Safety is a suggestion" energy.
This is what I love about experiments. Its not always the end result, but sometimes the journey is vastly more exciting.
think i saw cracks in the hole to begin with, might be a good idea to buy some diamond coated hole drills for glass, drill them halfway then turn the piece so you dont rip chunks off the surface to keep it as intact as possible.
also grind the sharp edges away from the hole to make it more durable.
make the hole bigger than the shaft, then epoxy some metal bushings to both sides of the glass. i mean if you have access to waterjet, you should be able to make replacement metal bushings too. also for the metal bushings, make the hole in em with the flats so the motor is turning the bushings and the larger diameter glue is turning the glass.
that way the shaft isnt grinding against the glass and the forces are not as concentrated.
also if possible balance the blade to reduce high speed vibrations.
lastly, compression does crack glass so if you screw it on too tight, it will shatter. the metal bushings should alleviate that as they turn with the shaft so the screw doesnt get tighter as it turns.
but that also means you might risk it coming loose so take care.
It was funny to see the guy at 1:00 manually editing points one by on. On an object that has rotational symmetry.
Even if conditions were perfect, glass is weak enough that you might also be brushing up against the point where it's literally spinning itself apart. Assuming I found the right numbers, standard glass will fail when spinning at ~53m/s, which can be reached quite easily on the edge of a saw blade.
Try using a titanium alloy with a thin layer of carbon fiber and make sure it gets a flow of water to keep it cool.
Oh, but the tips of the blade are sapphire
Instead of sinusidial shape just go for straight round shape, covering the blade in sharp stuff with two component glue.
For the first two attempts you might cut the teeth at an angle alternately, probably just using triangles than the saw teeth... so each triangle tooth just alternates between left and right cutting with a sharper angle than just 90 degrees, say 80 or even 70 degrees.
Problem with glass is that ANY little tiny fraction WILL expand under force - and rotational force you apply more than enough.
Lastly the reason why the electronic speed regulator did not work as intended. My guess would be that it was built for a smaller power tool, making it just to an effective switch when you used it with this big saw. You might need an electronic that either supports more wattage, or you should look for a soft starter which at least would lengthen the start time. This might help with this task.
Oh, and a lot of applied pressure is also bad with brittle material.
If nothing else, this video goes to show how much energy is put into a sawblade when you use a saw
Not sure if your waterjet has the ultra pierce option, but that would help prevent the glass from cracking when starting a cut in the middle. We recently got a Mach 100 where I work and all we cut on it is glass.
Normal saw blades have teeth made of pieces of metal attached to the rest of the blade. If you did this with the glass blade, it would help reduce concentrated pressure on the cutting edge to reduce cracks
You should of used laminated plexiglass for the saw blade it would of worked with that
Vibrations are the problem, you need cuts in your sawblade so it can reduce vibrations, glass would be hard enough to cut wood. But it cant withstand tension and vibration. Eventough you have strong thermic production
Gentlemen. Love your tenacity and innovation. However, one thing you've not observed is that metal blades, - even hand saw blades - have their teeth bent in small increments to either side, and are not completely vertical. This is called the "set". IOW, one tooth leans slightly to port, the next leans slightly starboard, ad finitum, until you get all the way around. This allows the blade to 'shed' the cuttings and continue smoothly without bogging down on the detritus caused by the cutting process (sawdust). Just a heads up from an old woodworking fart. Keep up the good work ! - Rev MFn Brown.
You might try an alternating chisle edge on the the glass, each probably at least an inch or two long, and taper the leading edges at least 50 degrees so that the blade slices in to the wood rather than rips or grinds, and between each cutting face put a little center cut ridge perhaps 1/4 inch long that is shorter than your edge blades. Spin your blade up slowly as to reduce shock, and once at speed let the weight of the machine do the cutting. As the blade spins each side will slice a bit and the center ridge will help eject the cut material. Might also try a triple lamination of glass with slightly thinner pieces, preferably of Pyrex or corning ware, which would allow for more flexablity and variation on the center cut to more effective remove waste. Alternately you might use a wandering knife edge so the sharp edge goes from a chisle point on one side of the glass to the other a couple of times. I would also recommend a metal spacer to go around the shaft of the bolt holding the blade to give it a smooth surface to seat on and to prevent over tightening cracking the core of the blade, just the thickness of the glass and half the rubber washers. You guys are doing great work.
Oh,and water cool the blade if you can. ;)
god damn
i’m not reading all of that
For the grass blade try blown glass I'm sure you'd get pretty good results as for the wood blade try coating the tips of each tooth with some type of metal
Another thought try heat treating the blade you made
That mud in the water table. Have you guys ever dipped a brush into it, painted on some ceramics and then fired it in a kiln to see what you get?
Why is he editing every single sawblade instead of creating one blade and then rotating that feature around a center? Amazed you guys get any work done at all!
The whole blade doesn't need to be made of glass to show that glass teeth will cut wood. Use a steel blade trimmed down around the perimeter, and replace the perimeter with glass. Epoxy the two bits together. Also, solve the soft start issue cause that was not the glasses fault at all for the failure to cut.
Your initial toothed design would work a lot better if you were cutting along the grain. Might wanna check out the differences between a crosscut and a rip saw. You're putting this in a miter saw, which is primarily for cross cutting, that is cutting across the grain. Combination saw blades, that is blades meant for both cutting with or across the grain, often have have alternating angles on the cutting edge of the teeth.
If my understanding of glass matrix is correct you would need some kind of uniform heating after this to allow the new shape's stresses to be evenly distributed again. Doing this puts the glass into a kind of tension making it much more fragile.