Thanks for the video! I found it very informative; it's nice to hear an expert opinion on this tool. You clearly sought some expert qualities from it that are purposefully omitted from it :) I'm not an expert myself, but I'm trying to understand as much about knife sharpening as I can, since I've done it wrong for decades. This Worksharp device is very good for a guy like me. Most of my knives (Finnish Puukko style) have a 20° to 25° factory angle, usually 22°. I'm happy to convert them to the Worksharp 20/25° angle with Worksharp, since most of my work is woodwork, firewood and such. The Guided Field Sharpener is actually quite good for these kind of knives. You get the general (microbevel) angle 20° with the diamond plates, and with the ceramic and the strop you form a little convex with the 25° guides. It gives a very good and consistent field experience to an outdoors guy like myself. I can also use this same device for more delicate or finer edges in just the manner you did in this video. Either by feel, like you, or by using marker angle guides that I drew on the backside of the coarse plate 😄 So, if this device is used exactly like the manual says, you'll get an easy and constant 20/25° edge with a slight convex. It's a perfect "standard" for out-in-the-wild average tools like a Puukko. The "coarse" side of the ceramic is designed to form a little bit of micro serration into the edge, which will ease using the blade for heavier cutting tasks, like ropes and stuff. I think it's well thought out in the wilderness of Oregon, and it works for me, too, with the heavier firewood knives. I asked Worksharp about the grits; the diamond plates are indeed 320 and 600, the ceramic is ≈3000 and the strop compund is 0.5 microns. But the best part of the Guided Field Sharpener is the fact that its parts are by themselves quite useful and versatile. Like you, I often use the diamond plates separately for various tasks. The only major downside of the device is the contamination of the strop; it seems to easily catch residue from the diamond plates, and that will lead to scratches forming in the strop phase. Other than that, I'm quite satisfied. I'm currently thinking of cleaning the strop thoroughly and applying your diamond spray into it in place of the original compound ;)
Yeah the Field sharpener is an awesome tool! thanks for your comment it's great to hear how everyone uses their tools, it helps me come up with products and videos etc. Glad to see you've got some of my compound to put on it :)
Wait you said course side leather is terrible. I’ve been using your 1 micron liquid on the course suede side is that not good. Should I switch to the smoother side?
Smooth side is better for diamond compounds 👍. Lighter draw (low friction when stropping). Also less chance of a leather fiber touching the apex and dulling it. But both will work, use whichever you prefer
A guy at work has one of those worksharp things. I didn't see a strop on it, maybe I missed it or it was removed or a different model... But I just debur on the ceramic. Ive used it a handful of times. Mostly with my box cutter for cutting foam. But also a pocket knife once or twice. Don't recall the model. Its okay. Again I'd rather just bring some 6x1 stones with me.
Hi, this seems to have a lot of redundant parts to it for me, I'm still looking for a cheap upgrade to my DC4 's,.. For a similar cost to this kit, would I be better with carrying on with the worn DC4, buying a DMT xxf pocket stone, and then using my usual 2 micron basswood strop, ?, Or, , again, in this scenario, would the DMT xxf, be an unnecessary addition, ?? and maybe just stick with the worn DC4, and the strop,, (this is mainly all for S110v,, ).. Cheers,, John..
The kit has a lot of redundant parts but is super versatile. Two different diamond plates which are actually very good quality and ceramic rod which is great deburring or micro bevels. If you've already got a DC-4 which isn't worn out then I wouldn't bother buying this. The little 4x1 DMT plates are pretty good, so if you're finding that you want a fine plate and one of those would be a good option. In that situation I'd probably just carry a little DMT plate and stick some basswood on the back of it. Having said that, the DMT plates are £20 each, 2/3 the price of this entire kit, which is why I think this is the best value kit around.
Water can help extend the life of the plates in some circumstances, they can also help clear the stones of swarf so they don't get clogged. It's not mandatory to use water and I don't really have a good reason for not using it other than I didn't want to get my desk wet 😂
Im commenting on a year old video so you probably know this already. But i think the angle guides come off? I don't actually own one of these i was just looking onto getting one. Can you confirn?
I've been sharpening like this for a decade but 2 months ago I finally got myself good. I almost removed my whole finger print on my middle finger . Luckily I was able to push the flap of skin "meat" back down and wrap it tight enough to heal. The bleeding was nuts cause all your pores are totally exposed . I'm going to make something to hold my sharpeners . For me its really important to feel the edge responding to the stone...BUT I like my fingers more. 😂
Most people will be watching this video in order to see how the sharpener works. Since you're doing things your own way you're not really using the product. You're using parts of the product to sharpen.
Thanks for the feedback 👍. I'm doing things my preferred way, this is primarily a sharpening channel where I share my views, this is the way I think we should use the tool. Plenty of other people will demonstrate how to use the angle guides if that's what you want to do. I think a 20 degree and on a knife is not worth doing, too much cutting performance is absorbed by obtuse angles.
Would any wood work? Assuming its a hardwood. Rock maple, Walnut, hickory? When i worked in HVAC construction i carried a junk Uncle Henry fixed blade in my tool belt for cutting insulation wrap, flex duct, etc... the more coarse the edge the better, serated steak knives worked the best. But i would often drag it on concrete, then on (2x4-pine rafters,) and cardboard boxes, surprisingly it was effective to a point. in my experimental days, Iv rubbed polishing compounds on cardboard, styrofoam, wood, leather, blue jeans, & stropped with that. ANY material that would dull a knife and was straight and flat iv attemted to use as a "strop". That was 15-20 years ago when i was broke and looking for interesting things to deburr & strop w/ besides my baseball glove. Fun times, enlightening.
Sorry for the late reply. Yes pretty much anything will work, let alone any wood. Having said that basswood is particularly nice to use the fibers and density of the wood is just right to hold the abrasives nicely. Sounds like you've had loads of experience with stropping substrates, I like to experiment with lots too, this far wood is my favourite.
@@stroppystuff641 very cool, my old man is a woodworker, plenty of hardwoods laying around the shop at home. I will have to try one out. Interesting topic, thx replying 🤙
Im sorry to point this out on your channel....but you are seriously incompetent with that sharpening tool or you just have no idea what you are doin, pick one. you are complaining about the ceramic stone, I just now finished up on a hatchet and it is now so sharp, Im cutting pages out of a catalog like it was a sharp knife....but it is a hatchet blade. Dont try to tell me you cant sharpen a knife blade on the same tool. Hundreds of people on this site with videos of them sharpening knives, machetes, axes, etc. and YOU cant get a edge on a knife? It isnt the tool thats a fail, its the tool using the tool that is fail.
I think you must be commenting on the wrong video mate 🤣 I said it's the best portable system for the money. I then also proceeded to split a hair on video with the knife I sharpened... Try watching and listening rather than imagining. We're also talking about vastly different levels of sharp. Cutting paper isn't in the same league as free hanging hair
Definitely gonna buy one of these at one point. Seems like a great package!
Hope you enjoy it!
You can pull out ceramic stone. Easily. Just push out metal pin near the red turning knob, turn on the FINE and pull out ceramic stone.
Oh great! I didn't know that. Thanks for the tip man. I'm gonna try it.
Thanks for the video! I found it very informative; it's nice to hear an expert opinion on this tool. You clearly sought some expert qualities from it that are purposefully omitted from it :) I'm not an expert myself, but I'm trying to understand as much about knife sharpening as I can, since I've done it wrong for decades. This Worksharp device is very good for a guy like me. Most of my knives (Finnish Puukko style) have a 20° to 25° factory angle, usually 22°. I'm happy to convert them to the Worksharp 20/25° angle with Worksharp, since most of my work is woodwork, firewood and such.
The Guided Field Sharpener is actually quite good for these kind of knives. You get the general (microbevel) angle 20° with the diamond plates, and with the ceramic and the strop you form a little convex with the 25° guides. It gives a very good and consistent field experience to an outdoors guy like myself. I can also use this same device for more delicate or finer edges in just the manner you did in this video. Either by feel, like you, or by using marker angle guides that I drew on the backside of the coarse plate 😄
So, if this device is used exactly like the manual says, you'll get an easy and constant 20/25° edge with a slight convex. It's a perfect "standard" for out-in-the-wild average tools like a Puukko.
The "coarse" side of the ceramic is designed to form a little bit of micro serration into the edge, which will ease using the blade for heavier cutting tasks, like ropes and stuff. I think it's well thought out in the wilderness of Oregon, and it works for me, too, with the heavier firewood knives.
I asked Worksharp about the grits; the diamond plates are indeed 320 and 600, the ceramic is ≈3000 and the strop compund is 0.5 microns.
But the best part of the Guided Field Sharpener is the fact that its parts are by themselves quite useful and versatile. Like you, I often use the diamond plates separately for various tasks. The only major downside of the device is the contamination of the strop; it seems to easily catch residue from the diamond plates, and that will lead to scratches forming in the strop phase. Other than that, I'm quite satisfied. I'm currently thinking of cleaning the strop thoroughly and applying your diamond spray into it in place of the original compound ;)
چطورمیشه خریداین مدل سنک؟
Yeah the Field sharpener is an awesome tool! thanks for your comment it's great to hear how everyone uses their tools, it helps me come up with products and videos etc. Glad to see you've got some of my compound to put on it :)
I just got my stripy stuff 1 micron spray and it’s awesome stuff man. All my knives have a super nice mirror polish edge. Super sharp
Great work man; glad you like the spray 👍
When it comes to knives and sharpeners I never think economics. And I want to declare this sharpener very best no matter what your budget is.
Wait you said course side leather is terrible. I’ve been using your 1 micron liquid on the course suede side is that not good. Should I switch to the smoother side?
Smooth side is better for diamond compounds 👍. Lighter draw (low friction when stropping). Also less chance of a leather fiber touching the apex and dulling it. But both will work, use whichever you prefer
@@stroppystuff641 thanks for the advice
A guy at work has one of those worksharp things. I didn't see a strop on it, maybe I missed it or it was removed or a different model... But I just debur on the ceramic. Ive used it a handful of times. Mostly with my box cutter for cutting foam. But also a pocket knife once or twice. Don't recall the model.
Its okay. Again I'd rather just bring some 6x1 stones with me.
I think they have a version with just diamond and ceramic
Does this sharpener work for magnacut blades?
Yeah
Thanks for a fast reply. I’ll definitely get one
@@johanpersson361 no problem, good luck!
great video as always mate, when you getting some more pocket strops in stock?
I'll probably make some next week ready for the weekend 👍
Hi, this seems to have a lot of redundant parts to it for me, I'm still looking for a cheap upgrade to my DC4 's,..
For a similar cost to this kit, would I be better with carrying on with the worn DC4, buying a DMT xxf pocket stone, and then using my usual 2 micron basswood strop, ?,
Or, , again, in this scenario, would the DMT xxf, be an unnecessary addition, ?? and maybe just stick with the worn DC4, and the strop,,
(this is mainly all for S110v,, )..
Cheers,, John..
The kit has a lot of redundant parts but is super versatile. Two different diamond plates which are actually very good quality and ceramic rod which is great deburring or micro bevels. If you've already got a DC-4 which isn't worn out then I wouldn't bother buying this. The little 4x1 DMT plates are pretty good, so if you're finding that you want a fine plate and one of those would be a good option. In that situation I'd probably just carry a little DMT plate and stick some basswood on the back of it. Having said that, the DMT plates are £20 each, 2/3 the price of this entire kit, which is why I think this is the best value kit around.
@@stroppystuff641
Thanks for the heads up,, all the best, John
Thanks again Stroppy. Why no lube on the diamond when sharpening?
Water can help extend the life of the plates in some circumstances, they can also help clear the stones of swarf so they don't get clogged. It's not mandatory to use water and I don't really have a good reason for not using it other than I didn't want to get my desk wet 😂
@@stroppystuff641 Thanks for reply.
Im commenting on a year old video so you probably know this already. But i think the angle guides come off? I don't actually own one of these i was just looking onto getting one. Can you confirn?
@@rays5163 the angle guide doesn't come off on this version, maybe they come off on new versions?
@@stroppystuff641 i might be confusing it with their bench stone that looks real similar but is on a rotating stand
Nice👍. I use two DMT Diafold in the field. And I don't like leather strops.
If you remove the pin, you can remove the ceramic rod.
Yeah I figured that out after this video :) thanks for the help though, someone best you to it 😁
I've been sharpening like this for a decade but 2 months ago I finally got myself good. I almost removed my whole finger print on my middle finger . Luckily I was able to push the flap of skin "meat" back down and wrap it tight enough to heal. The bleeding was nuts cause all your pores are totally exposed .
I'm going to make something to hold my sharpeners . For me its really important to feel the edge responding to the stone...BUT I like my fingers more. 😂
Most people will be watching this video in order to see how the sharpener works. Since you're doing things your own way you're not really using the product. You're using parts of the product to sharpen.
Thanks for the feedback 👍. I'm doing things my preferred way, this is primarily a sharpening channel where I share my views, this is the way I think we should use the tool. Plenty of other people will demonstrate how to use the angle guides if that's what you want to do. I think a 20 degree and on a knife is not worth doing, too much cutting performance is absorbed by obtuse angles.
Would any wood work? Assuming its a hardwood. Rock maple, Walnut, hickory?
When i worked in HVAC construction i carried a junk Uncle Henry fixed blade in my tool belt for cutting insulation wrap, flex duct, etc... the more coarse the edge the better, serated steak knives worked the best. But i would often drag it on concrete, then on (2x4-pine rafters,) and cardboard boxes, surprisingly it was effective to a point.
in my experimental days, Iv rubbed polishing compounds on cardboard, styrofoam, wood, leather, blue jeans, & stropped with that. ANY material that would dull a knife and was straight and flat iv attemted to use as a "strop". That was 15-20 years ago when i was broke and looking for interesting things to deburr & strop w/ besides my baseball glove. Fun times, enlightening.
Sorry for the late reply. Yes pretty much anything will work, let alone any wood. Having said that basswood is particularly nice to use the fibers and density of the wood is just right to hold the abrasives nicely. Sounds like you've had loads of experience with stropping substrates, I like to experiment with lots too, this far wood is my favourite.
@@stroppystuff641 very cool, my old man is a woodworker, plenty of hardwoods laying around the shop at home. I will have to try one out. Interesting topic, thx replying 🤙
I use mine for almost all my sharpening.
Just got one, cannot fault it for the money!
By removing the "stone" from the housing you're not getting any steeper angles because your fingertips are still determining your angle.
The finger tips can go much lower than the angle guides
Im sorry to point this out on your channel....but you are seriously incompetent with that sharpening tool or you just have no idea what you are doin, pick one.
you are complaining about the ceramic stone, I just now finished up on a hatchet and it is now so sharp, Im cutting pages out of a catalog like it was a sharp knife....but it is a hatchet blade. Dont try to tell me you cant sharpen a knife blade on the same tool.
Hundreds of people on this site with videos of them sharpening knives, machetes, axes, etc. and YOU cant get a edge on a knife?
It isnt the tool thats a fail, its the tool using the tool that is fail.
I think you must be commenting on the wrong video mate 🤣 I said it's the best portable system for the money. I then also proceeded to split a hair on video with the knife I sharpened... Try watching and listening rather than imagining. We're also talking about vastly different levels of sharp. Cutting paper isn't in the same league as free hanging hair