Perfect example of why the vast majority of people shouldn’t be buying delicate, full flat Spydercos in super steels. And why we shouldn’t be telling them “Spyderco is an excellent choice,” without know what they are doing with the knife. Could have easily bought ten Ganzos in D2 and used them until they wore out. This was a “user” who got sold a “knife geek” knife.
@@JohnSmith-gs4lw anybody can buy whatever the hell they want. Why are you upset that this guy screwed up his Spyderco? It is his money and if he he/she wants to ruin a 100$ plus knife then oh well, you didn’t buy it for him/her.
I've actually used this field sharpener to fully sharpen and repair tons of supersteel edges but where I might lend a slight suggestion is for you to get a nice stiffer bristled toothbrush or the like and continuously clean the loose steel particles off of the stones otherwise you're doing more gliding across the top of the diamond abrasive more than cutting into and removing the steel! Now this goes for all sharpening stones or systems, you need to frequently clean the stones off to allow the abrasives to be fully exposed and work as they should... I know this is an old video but maybe this can help someone who reads the comment or you Pete with your other sharpening systems... This is quite the handy little sharpener amd works very well if used properly with a bit of stone maintenance....
Tips: Turn it 180°. That side is easier to hold. Also, keep the ceramic rod facing your sharpening hand and just switch the plates out. There’s more room on that side to get that last 2-3mm of blade sharpened.
The eraser works great but is a little bit time consuming for using it while working on one edge (in my opinion the eraser works best between 80 to 200 strokes, it depends on stone type, grit and steel that needs to be sharpened) Using a piece of lightly damp kitchen paper every 50 strokes works better for cleaning the stone when sharpening just one edge
A case for the special victims unit. That ceramic rod will take a paper slicing edge to hair shaving in 2 light strokes per side if you do a micro bevel of 30 degrees per side. although s110 may behave differently.
You are a gentleman and a scholar. For whatever the heck your friend is doing with his knives, he should get an inexpensive workhorse fixed blade and given that Spyderco some well earned R&R.
I’m learning how to sharpen with the Work Sharp. I’m getting to the point where I can make a knife not as dull as when I started. Thanks for the vids, they are very helpful
Use a bright lamp or light source. Get the knife flat against the diamons stone. Slowly raise the knife until you dont see the shadow. Practice keeping the same angle. Consistency is key! You got this dude, anything worthwhile in life takes practice
Like Vanguard said! Its irellevant what angle you have, just that you hold the same one! Thats the most difficult part! After that make sure you get a nice "Burr" all along the edge! After that ligthen your pressure and try to get this burr off on the coarsest stone! once you can do that, you have learned how to sharpen and your life is never dull again!
I’ve learned that tip or tip down is a preference we just shouldn’t talk about. It’s like politics some ppl just have their preference and won’t even listen to the other side.
Agreed. Around a 3.5" blade is where I start carrying tip down. It's really more about the handle length though. Pm2/endura or bigger = tip down. Anything smaller is tip up given the option.
I've pretty much never used the diamond plates on mine. The ceramic rod and the leather strop have been more than enough to keep my blades touched up, and if I need something more aggressive I usually use a different sharpener. That said, since this is also the only sharpener I carry in the field, it's good to see that it can be done if necessary.
For having one in a car or something this thing is a killer deal! Small, contains all you need to get the job done and doesn't break the bank. I mean, what more could one ask for?
I would use 60 grit sandpaper first and just do straight -up vertical passes till you get the chips out ,then do the regrind with some 150 grit,then do the finish work with the diamonds-i've done this and it works -love your channel and all the super informative info,diamond stones are too valuable to wear down with just a few knives
A little late but thanks for the valuable money -saving tip! I completely wore out the 320-grit diamond on my precision adjust while repairing and reprofiling my damaged knives. Now this isn't going to happen with my guided field sharpener. Many thanks again! Cheers...
@@normanyacob4235How much time have you put into the 320 grit stone? I was wondering if mine was starting to dull, but I’m told Diamond plates should last years. 🤔
On to the belt grinder...240 belt...400 belt...paper wheel.... leather strop..done! I know you were showing what that tool could do and I salute you for it!
Be really really careful with belt grinders and paper wheels! New "actual" research done over @ Knifesteelnerds.com suggests that even aggressively using a diamond stone can screw with the temper of the steel at the very cutting apex! Essentially you are micro tempering your knife and softening the very edge of your Knife that you worked so hard for! I make sure to always wet my blade down after each pass and use the slowest speed my belt grinder allows when working with Hardened steel that i want to keep Hard!
I've been having trouble with this sharpener. I wonder if maybe I'm being too gentle with it? This video makes it look like you're really getting into it and the results are there to see
I hope your friend appreciates you rebuilding his knife. I have work knives that I've retired or taken a carbide to that had better edges than what was done to that blade. Good on you
I don't know how long this will last but right now (August 22, 2020) this sharpener is on sale for $19 on Amazon (at least in the US). I have one that I just ordered YESTERDAY, so it's really weird to see a video show up in my notifications about it the next day.
Man, I can sharpen with a kme but I am always amazed at blokes like you who can free hand it. I always mess up free hand sharpening, so I used a guided system
dont flick the knife tip of the edge of the diamond plate. it will over time chew your tip away. and dont push so hard on the leather. it will round your edge over. so you think you have a sharp knife that will glide though paper. but i would be way sharper if you didnt have a rolled edge. iv been sharpening knives professionaly for 12 years now. just some tips for you. great video bro. love your content.
Yeah.. I have friends like that. I recommend 8Cr13Mov (or equivalent) knives and 20-22 knife angle. They are happy with it and a 3 minute resharpen once in a while will make them go "Whoa! Thanks mate. What a great knife"
Ur method is really exhausting. Theres another one. Hard for me to explain in english since it isnt my motger tongue. Here is how u also could do it: Put ur knifes edge on a 90 degree angle on the diamant plate. Grind until the chip and the edge is literally gone. Then u have to fully restore the edge with the right angle. I would go with roughly 15-20 degree per side. Thats how u can concentrate more on the chip towards the tip instead of going all the way so slowly and removing so much material. Also u should get rid of all the removed material in the process. Ur diamond plate wont hold up if u use it to roughly with to much pressure in my experience. Keep up the good work. Much respect!!
Agreed. I've used this method also. That said, I believe the method the videos author used is more work, but would keep the knifes blade closer to its original sweep... but way more work.
Um, yeah. I'm sold. Buying one of these Guided Field Sharpeners immediately. Btw, Give your friend a freaking CRJB or Civivi. He's not allowed to own S110V.
I carry this same sharpener everywhere I go (in my backpack) and the guys I work with know it! I'm known as the guy that'll sharpen your knife. I've seen quite a few edges that looked quite similar to the knife in this video and that little sharpener handles it like a pro! I don't go anywhere without it!
I chipped my 3v in the field with this sharpener on me. Held off the side of a stump and used it kinda like u do the KME until I removed enough material...then I got the edge right works pretty quick.Just little tip if someone does basically have to reprofile while out....excellent video as always ......
I know this is ilder but does the ceramic rods add to sharpness.. i get a knife pretty sharp with just a whetstone.. sharp enough to slice through newspaper.. so I'm ok but razor sharp could be neat too..thanks
I think for any blade s35vn and under this is a pretty solid choice. Mine stays in my pack and goes most places with me. Sharpens fishing hooks rather well too I might add.
First off, FF7 music brought back fond memories. Secondly, what knifenut doesn't know such ppl? Some 8Cr13MoV beater would be more appropriate for most of them - and easier to re-sharpen, too. XD
Pete, something I did with my WSGFS to make a more complete on the go sharpening system was to remove the diamond plate and the ceramic rod. Buy a Spyderco doublestuff ceramic, and shove the diamond plates as well as the ceramic rod inside the leather slip with the double stuff. Now you have coarse diamond, fine diamond, brown ceramic, white ceramic, and a rod for recurves or whatnot. Also a leather slip for stripping
Sounds like you paid quite a bit for a hunk of useless plastic, then. You could have just bought much higher quality (coarse and fine) plain diamond plates for the same price as this sharpener. Doublestuff is awesome though. One of the best(and overlooked) tools on the market.
Nice work with the guided field sharpener. Goes to show that much time and patience has to be spent getting chips sharpened out as you did. Great work on a basic field sharpener to achieve the results that you did.👍
I hope this isn’t too dumb of a question. I’m fairly new to sharpening. But if someone gave me that knife in that shape and I had to sharpen it in the most efficient way, with my limited knowledge, I think I’d grind the edge off on a very coarse stone with just cutting strokes. Like how you blunted your American Lawman in your Lansky video. Just grind off all the damage and reprofile a new edge. I’m sure this is a bad idea or you’d have done it. But why would this be bad? Would you remove too much steel? It seems like it’d remove the same since essentially you’ve had to put a brand new edge on anyway but you’ve done it maintaining the edge angle all the way rather than flattening the old edge including the chips then starting fresh. I hope this makes sense and thanks for your great videos.
I have one of these. The hardest steel I've used on it is spyderco's M4 and it did well enough for what i needed it for. I wish it had different angles to switch to but for knives you'd use in the "field" 20 degrees is fine. The only issue i have is that on larger blades you run out of stone pretty quick and have to almost do it in two passes for one edge. Knives under 5 inches aren't too bad but i would mainly just strop anything larger than that. Idk that's just my opinion though. Thanks for sharing.
A perfectly engineered knife like the PM 2 doesn’t chip. In reality, the „chips“ were customizable sharpening choils which help you keep every sub-section of the blade sharpened exactly to your liking. Aaaaand....it has just been patented.
I had to do a similar job with my sons Benchmade and I started with about a 30° per side edge and when I was just about to the good steel I layed it back to about 20° and it seemed to go by in no time whole job took about 15 minutes. The chips were similar but not as good steel, but I think with starting a steep angle would have made your job easier. Just my opinion take care and stay safe buddy.
Hi! Can someone help me?: I have a spyderco dragonfly salt 2 and the edge is slightly chipped in a small part, I have no much experience in sharpening and I don't know which grit would be suitable for the repair. Because I fear that too coarse stone maybe spoil the soft h1 edge. Thanks the answers!
Used mine for a couple of years as my primary sharpener so good to know it’s up to the task if I had to press it into that role. I still have it and use it as a field sharpener except I will break it out to strop a recurve. The narrow strop on this work much better at this task than the one on WorkSharps tilting block bench system that’s now my primary sharpener. Thanks for the review.
It is really the best field sharpener on the market. For that kind of damage I would go with a reprofiling and new bevel on the belt sander though simply because I value my time. You got some decent results though. Just goes to show exactly why I love this product though. Always in my pocket.
Excellent review. I'd love to see you do a review on the cheap & cheerful Lansky 4 Rod Turn Box system. I use mine more than my Sharpmaker because I find it easier (as long as the rods are frequently cleaned).
I'd say the S110V steel was probably the worst choice, as compared to the 17 degree angle, for a person that "cuts rocks". LOL. Enjoyed the video! You're a good friend.
In some cases you can switch the plates to the opposite sides, if you want to use the handle end. Otherwise come at the choil area from the ceramic side and sometimes get at the heel a little more especially at that little notch area that goes right to the plate instead of fighting the strop side.
I use my Worksharp Field Sharpener more than all my Japanese whetstones. My kitchen knives, I’ll whetstone them because I like having a really fine edge. But for my pocket knives, fishing, and camping knives, I use the Field Sharpener regularly to touch them up.
Personally, I think this was a test of friendship more than the sharpener.
That knife was straight-up turned into a saw.
@safe space you mean 'hear hear!'
Perfect example of why the vast majority of people shouldn’t be buying delicate, full flat Spydercos in super steels. And why we shouldn’t be telling them “Spyderco is an excellent choice,” without know what they are doing with the knife. Could have easily bought ten Ganzos in D2 and used them until they wore out. This was a “user” who got sold a “knife geek” knife.
@@JohnSmith-gs4lw you guys are you you ou
@@JohnSmith-gs4lw anybody can buy whatever the hell they want. Why are you upset that this guy screwed up his Spyderco? It is his money and if he he/she wants to ruin a 100$ plus knife then oh well, you didn’t buy it for him/her.
I've actually used this field sharpener to fully sharpen and repair tons of supersteel edges but where I might lend a slight suggestion is for you to get a nice stiffer bristled toothbrush or the like and continuously clean the loose steel particles off of the stones otherwise you're doing more gliding across the top of the diamond abrasive more than cutting into and removing the steel! Now this goes for all sharpening stones or systems, you need to frequently clean the stones off to allow the abrasives to be fully exposed and work as they should... I know this is an old video but maybe this can help someone who reads the comment or you Pete with your other sharpening systems... This is quite the handy little sharpener amd works very well if used properly with a bit of stone maintenance....
"but where I might lend a slight suggestion" is the language the internet needs! Hits so much more polite than "well actually" or "you should do this"
This comment helped me ty
Great comment.💯🫡
Right off the bat I thought this guy needs 25 degrees
The official worksharp video also says to do this.
"A reasonably large job, for such a small tool" is, from the anecdotal evidence I have been able to compile, precisely what she said.
😂 stupid 😂
Damn, I always just got, "Wow, you're so good with your hands."
More chips than a fish stand in Liverpool.
👍🏼 level 10 dad joke achieved
Well said😂😂😂
I can hear that knife begging not to be given back to the man who did that to it.
Tips:
Turn it 180°. That side is easier to hold.
Also, keep the ceramic rod facing your sharpening hand and just switch the plates out. There’s more room on that side to get that last 2-3mm of blade sharpened.
Ik right wtff
My thought exactly. Just flip the whole system around so the strop doesn't get in the way, preventing you from sharpening the butt end of the blade.
"Oh, he's carrying it tip down too, what a freak" xD
This is the most impressively damaged PM I’ve seen. Great job bringing her back.
That Final Fantasy music, love it.
I was wondering if anyone else noticed that lol
The field sharpener has been my primary sharpener for 2 years. Functionally sharp and portable for everything from pocket knives to axe heads👍
Pete, get a Lansky Eraser Block or similar to get the powdered steel out of the grit. Aloha!
Can confirm, this works!
But also warm water, scouring milk and a scouring pad work too!
The eraser works great but is a little bit time consuming for using it while working on one edge (in my opinion the eraser works best between 80 to 200 strokes, it depends on stone type, grit and steel that needs to be sharpened)
Using a piece of lightly damp kitchen paper every 50 strokes works better for cleaning the stone when sharpening just one edge
Comet or another scrubbing cleanser works well also
A case for the special victims unit.
That ceramic rod will take a paper slicing edge to hair shaving in 2 light strokes per side if you do a micro bevel of 30 degrees per side.
although s110 may behave differently.
I agree.
You are a gentleman and a scholar. For whatever the heck your friend is doing with his knives, he should get an inexpensive workhorse fixed blade and given that Spyderco some well earned R&R.
I’m tired, boss
I’m learning how to sharpen with the Work Sharp. I’m getting to the point where I can make a knife not as dull as when I started. Thanks for the vids, they are very helpful
Use a bright lamp or light source. Get the knife flat against the diamons stone. Slowly raise the knife until you dont see the shadow. Practice keeping the same angle. Consistency is key!
You got this dude, anything worthwhile in life takes practice
Like Vanguard said! Its irellevant what angle you have, just that you hold the same one! Thats the most difficult part!
After that make sure you get a nice "Burr" all along the edge! After that ligthen your pressure and try to get this burr off on the coarsest stone! once you can do that, you have learned how to sharpen and your life is never dull again!
Watching the stone load up over the time lapse footage, was its own reward. You sir, are a champ!
The real question of the video should be “who carries their PM2 tip down?”
It makes absolut sense with a folder that length. Even more when u look at the Military. It also fits better in the hand ergonomically.
I’ve learned that tip or tip down is a preference we just shouldn’t talk about. It’s like politics some ppl just have their preference and won’t even listen to the other side.
Did i miss it. Or did you say how long you worked on this ??
Agreed. Around a 3.5" blade is where I start carrying tip down. It's really more about the handle length though.
Pm2/endura or bigger = tip down. Anything smaller is tip up given the option.
Sal Glesser.
You gave an S110V PM2 with a custom mirrored 17 degree edge to a non knife person? You're a lunatic lol.
I think his friend was breaking rocks at the quarry with that knife. 🤦♂️
I've pretty much never used the diamond plates on mine. The ceramic rod and the leather strop have been more than enough to keep my blades touched up, and if I need something more aggressive I usually use a different sharpener.
That said, since this is also the only sharpener I carry in the field, it's good to see that it can be done if necessary.
For having one in a car or something this thing is a killer deal!
Small, contains all you need to get the job done and doesn't break the bank.
I mean, what more could one ask for?
He killed bricky with that thing
That explains the music
Good riddance
Bricccckkkyyyyyyyyyy no lol
Next episode we find out that bricky now identifies as rubble.
If you don’t mind me asking why do you grab the small end of the work sharp instead of the end your supposed to grab. I’m just asking Pete...lol.
I would use 60 grit sandpaper first and just do straight -up vertical passes till you get the chips out ,then do the regrind with some 150 grit,then do the finish work with the diamonds-i've done this and it works -love your channel and all the super informative info,diamond stones are too valuable to wear down with just a few knives
Amen!
Yes. Vertical passes for those deep chips. 👍
Thats the correct way.
I have a wicked edge ultra coarse and a DMT extra extra coarse for this exact process.
A little late but thanks for the valuable money -saving tip! I completely wore out the 320-grit diamond on my precision adjust while repairing and reprofiling my damaged knives. Now this isn't going to happen with my guided field sharpener. Many thanks again! Cheers...
@@normanyacob4235How much time have you put into the 320 grit stone? I was wondering if mine was starting to dull, but I’m told Diamond plates should last years. 🤔
On to the belt grinder...240 belt...400 belt...paper wheel.... leather strop..done! I know you were showing what that tool could do and I salute you for it!
Be really really careful with belt grinders and paper wheels! New "actual" research done over @ Knifesteelnerds.com suggests that even aggressively using a diamond stone can screw with the temper of the steel at the very cutting apex!
Essentially you are micro tempering your knife and softening the very edge of your Knife that you worked so hard for! I make sure to always wet my blade down after each pass and use the slowest speed my belt grinder allows when working with Hardened steel that i want to keep Hard!
I've been having trouble with this sharpener. I wonder if maybe I'm being too gentle with it? This video makes it look like you're really getting into it and the results are there to see
i felt that ffvii bgm in my soul when the video started playing
That edge . Your mate needs a nice, tough 1095 blade. More expensive doesn't always mean better - especially if you're trying to cut rocks.
considering hes allready using s110v. lets bump that 1095 to something like 3V or M4! Benchmade Superfreek is in this price range!
I hope your friend appreciates you rebuilding his knife.
I have work knives that I've retired or taken a carbide to that had better edges than what was done to that blade.
Good on you
Great video and thanks for the FF9 songs
Thank god you did this so we don’t have to. Also - excellent music choice for the intro! One of my favorites from 7
This was the most whimsical sharpening vid I’ve ever seen
Thanks for this, I'm absolutely shit with mine so hopefully this will help do more good than bad with my work sharp
Thanks, I bought one based on your recommendation and this was a great guide
That dog with its stare would be the only dog in the world I kiss back with affection.
I don't know how long this will last but right now (August 22, 2020) this sharpener is on sale for $19 on Amazon (at least in the US). I have one that I just ordered YESTERDAY, so it's really weird to see a video show up in my notifications about it the next day.
I love the dog hair on the jacket, it makes me feel like you are actually in my living room with me lol
Man, I can sharpen with a kme but I am always amazed at blokes like you who can free hand it. I always mess up free hand sharpening, so I used a guided system
Looked like a lot of downward pressure while stropping?
I think I may have to pick up one after seeing your results. I'm very impressed.
Your buddy needs to sell you his knife and buy a utility blade and lots of extra blades.
When people say “s110v doesn’t chip out”
Depending on geometry, heat treatment and intended use.
That did extremely well. Nothing catastrophic
That blade is in such bad shape maxamet probably would’ve chipped too
@@itsaknifestyle8482 Gotta agree with you on this Brother.
When people say "s110v is chippy"
Then you find out they use their knife as a masonry saw
Love the videos and the Final Fantasy music is a beautiful touch. Cheers bro
dont flick the knife tip of the edge of the diamond plate. it will over time chew your tip away. and dont push so hard on the leather. it will round your edge over. so you think you have a sharp knife that will glide though paper. but i would be way sharper if you didnt have a rolled edge. iv been sharpening knives professionaly for 12 years now. just some tips for you. great video bro. love your content.
He was pushing way to hard in the latter steps... he could have had a much better edge with a little more finesse
I think it's called frustration !
Yeah.. I have friends like that. I recommend 8Cr13Mov (or equivalent) knives and 20-22 knife angle. They are happy with it and a 3 minute resharpen once in a while will make them go "Whoa! Thanks mate. What a great knife"
Nice to see it can handle that if needed, I just ordered one the other day.👍
Ur method is really exhausting. Theres another one. Hard for me to explain in english since it isnt my motger tongue. Here is how u also could do it:
Put ur knifes edge on a 90 degree angle on the diamant plate. Grind until the chip and the edge is literally gone. Then u have to fully restore the edge with the right angle. I would go with roughly 15-20 degree per side. Thats how u can concentrate more on the chip towards the tip instead of going all the way so slowly and removing so much material. Also u should get rid of all the removed material in the process.
Ur diamond plate wont hold up if u use it to roughly with to much pressure in my experience.
Keep up the good work. Much respect!!
Nice idea!
In straight razor honeing this is called breadknifing the edge and is used when the edge is basically beyond hope and you need to completely restart.
I never would have thought of that! I'll try it next time I've got a horrible edge to fix
Cool. Maybe just use a rock for the 90 degree step to spare the diamond board?
Agreed. I've used this method also. That said, I believe the method the videos author used is more work, but would keep the knifes blade closer to its original sweep... but way more work.
Great vid bro...love the original final fantasy 7 background music!!
Um, yeah. I'm sold. Buying one of these Guided Field Sharpeners immediately. Btw, Give your friend a freaking CRJB or Civivi. He's not allowed to own S110V.
You get a thumbs up for the interaction with Ada. I miss having a dog!
I’d like to thumbs it up again for the rest of the content, but I sadly cannot.
I carry this same sharpener everywhere I go (in my backpack) and the guys I work with know it! I'm known as the guy that'll sharpen your knife. I've seen quite a few edges that looked quite similar to the knife in this video and that little sharpener handles it like a pro! I don't go anywhere without it!
I chipped my 3v in the field with this sharpener on me. Held off the side of a stump and used it kinda like u do the KME until I removed enough material...then I got the edge right works pretty quick.Just little tip if someone does basically have to reprofile while out....excellent video as always ......
great vid man really appreciate these types of vids showing the actual capabilities of items in this hobby of ours
I know this is ilder but does the ceramic rods add to sharpness.. i get a knife pretty sharp with just a whetstone.. sharp enough to slice through newspaper.. so I'm ok but razor sharp could be neat too..thanks
I think for any blade s35vn and under this is a pretty solid choice. Mine stays in my pack and goes most places with me. Sharpens fishing hooks rather well too I might add.
Just received my worksharp, love it and it works great.
The first 13 seconds are like a horror film.
You had me with the FF7 music. Ill drop a sub just for that.
I have the same Work Sharp and I love it.
Hello Nice video, what do you think is better Work Sharp Wks03875 or the Dc4 and Cc4 stones
I’ve been wanting a WFS for ages. I’m biting the bullet tomorrow and buying one. It’ll be bigger than my 10cm diamond stone, which is good.
Nice article in Knives Illustrated! What are the smaller fixed blades that you are holding on the second page?
That's a cool little portable unit I can see that being taken with on camping trips and what not
Just bought one of these worksharp field sharpeners.
Perfect for hunting.
First off, FF7 music brought back fond memories.
Secondly, what knifenut doesn't know such ppl? Some 8Cr13MoV beater would be more appropriate for most of them - and easier to re-sharpen, too. XD
That was an endeavor! Well done Pete.
Pete, something I did with my WSGFS to make a more complete on the go sharpening system was to remove the diamond plate and the ceramic rod. Buy a Spyderco doublestuff ceramic, and shove the diamond plates as well as the ceramic rod inside the leather slip with the double stuff. Now you have coarse diamond, fine diamond, brown ceramic, white ceramic, and a rod for recurves or whatnot. Also a leather slip for stripping
Stropping
Sounds like you paid quite a bit for a hunk of useless plastic, then.
You could have just bought much higher quality (coarse and fine) plain diamond plates for the same price as this sharpener.
Doublestuff is awesome though. One of the best(and overlooked) tools on the market.
Nice work with the guided field sharpener. Goes to show that much time and patience has to be spent getting chips sharpened out as you did. Great work on a basic field sharpener to achieve the results that you did.👍
Hey pete...how was the tip afterwards?
I would have given up when I saw s110v on the blade.
Think it would have been faster or slower with the KME?
How long did that take in real time?
bout 1 hour if i didn’t stop for video stuff
@@CedricAda Dont think it was his fault, S110V is super chippy and zero tough in real world use.
Great job & a quite impressive tool, gotta love the FF VII music, 😎👍👍
How do you not have repetitive strain injury?
didn't he though?
How did the diamonds hold up after that?
Just bought a Benchmade Griptilian it had a few chips after using the diamond course plate it’s like new
I hope this isn’t too dumb of a question. I’m fairly new to sharpening. But if someone gave me that knife in that shape and I had to sharpen it in the most efficient way, with my limited knowledge, I think I’d grind the edge off on a very coarse stone with just cutting strokes. Like how you blunted your American Lawman in your Lansky video. Just grind off all the damage and reprofile a new edge. I’m sure this is a bad idea or you’d have done it. But why would this be bad? Would you remove too much steel? It seems like it’d remove the same since essentially you’ve had to put a brand new edge on anyway but you’ve done it maintaining the edge angle all the way rather than flattening the old edge including the chips then starting fresh. I hope this makes sense and thanks for your great videos.
Really enjoyed this video. S110v that is really saying something about that sharpener.
Nice job! I have found that it helps a lot if you wash off from time to time the residues from the diamond plates.
Was that more work than cut testing a Sandrin Knife?
I have one of these. The hardest steel I've used on it is spyderco's M4 and it did well enough for what i needed it for. I wish it had different angles to switch to but for knives you'd use in the "field" 20 degrees is fine. The only issue i have is that on larger blades you run out of stone pretty quick and have to almost do it in two passes for one edge. Knives under 5 inches aren't too bad but i would mainly just strop anything larger than that. Idk that's just my opinion though. Thanks for sharing.
This vs lansky turnbox?
👏 WOW! l love the work sharp field sharpener But l can almost guarantee your the only one that's sharpened 110v that badly damaged MAD PROPS 💪👊
At times I could faintly hear from your knife lab, Bricky’s cousin stone on the Tormak say.... “I could have fixed it in a tenth of the time”.
Love the FF music used 👍
Also is that the S110V burple PM2?! Cuts rocks eh? Haha
A perfectly engineered knife like the PM 2 doesn’t chip. In reality, the „chips“ were customizable sharpening choils which help you keep every sub-section of the blade sharpened exactly to your liking.
Aaaaand....it has just been patented.
I had to do a similar job with my sons Benchmade and I started with about a 30° per side edge and when I was just about to the good steel I layed it back to about 20° and it seemed to go by in no time whole job took about 15 minutes. The chips were similar but not as good steel, but I think with starting a steep angle would have made your job easier. Just my opinion take care and stay safe buddy.
Can't do with the lansky system. I tried. But the upgraded lansky diamond "stones" should work.
Hi!
Can someone help me?:
I have a spyderco dragonfly salt 2 and the edge is slightly chipped in a small part, I have no much experience in sharpening and I don't know which grit would be suitable for the repair.
Because I fear that too coarse stone maybe spoil the soft h1 edge.
Thanks the answers!
Synchronistic that the video yhat finally helps me use this thing and actually get an edge, and your love of nobuo uematsu matches my own.
Ada is such a sweetheart.
Used mine for a couple of years as my primary sharpener so good to know it’s up to the task if I had to press it into that role. I still have it and use it as a field sharpener except I will break it out to strop a recurve. The narrow strop on this work much better at this task than the one on WorkSharps tilting block bench system that’s now my primary sharpener. Thanks for the review.
Can I sharpen my d2 knives on this?
Are you using a compound?
It is really the best field sharpener on the market. For that kind of damage I would go with a reprofiling and new bevel on the belt sander though simply because I value my time. You got some decent results though. Just goes to show exactly why I love this product though. Always in my pocket.
Why do you have the handle facing away from you, dont you have enough problems?
Excellent review. I'd love to see you do a review on the cheap & cheerful Lansky 4 Rod Turn Box system. I use mine more than my Sharpmaker because I find it easier (as long as the rods are frequently cleaned).
I'd say the S110V steel was probably the worst choice, as compared to the 17 degree angle, for a person that "cuts rocks". LOL. Enjoyed the video! You're a good friend.
*No Bricky was harmed in the making of this video.
In some cases you can switch the plates to the opposite sides, if you want to use the handle end. Otherwise come at the choil area from the ceramic side and sometimes get at the heel a little more especially at that little notch area that goes right to the plate instead of fighting the strop side.
I use my Worksharp Field Sharpener more than all my Japanese whetstones. My kitchen knives, I’ll whetstone them because I like having a really fine edge. But for my pocket knives, fishing, and camping knives, I use the Field Sharpener regularly to touch them up.
what paste is used on the strop?
I don't know who your friend is....but...he's a monster!