Find a way please for us benchmade guys that use 17 degree angles, and take a 25 degree field sharpener more applicable. Make the angles able to be switched out like the Work Sharp Benchstone and it can be used more universally. Magnets would be a great thing to have to snap the angle guides off and on and bam! 17 degree in the field slappin away on the benchmade.
Agree 100% and I am Spyderco guy but I do sharpen at 15 and 17 Dps. I think Worksharp should make at least the MKC angles a standard in their portfolio. Modern steels and modern heat treat is way ahead of 20/25 Dps protocols.
We hear you loud and clear. I also know that most knives that claim to be 15-17 are actually closer to 20-22 DPS. And if you want to sharpen to 15 or 17, we won't stop you, and we hear your feedback.
What degree do you recommend to sharpen your hunting knife. On the chart with the MK2 it states 25. And during your videos you say 20. What’s the best and why? Thanks
First off, I love the worksharp systems and the quality performance they Im really loving the idea of the folding field sharpener. I think it is an amazing step forward for basic edge maintenance and touch-up work. But, like others have said, I do wish there was a way to not have the fixed 25 degree on the ceramic for micro beveling. I understand the theory and practice behind it, and I agree with it in a fashion of sorts. But I like keeping the established angles and maintaining them that way. That's where the old 50030 maintenance tool comes in. And I loved that product so much! Was so sad to see the discontinuation of it. I was hoping for the folding field sharpener to also be offered in a similar configuration more in the direction of maintenance rather than quick and fast metal removal. More of an everyday use maintaining type case, rather than an urgent edge care and repair where you need an edge as fast as possible.
Bought a pull through sharpener for $5. (new to sharpening btw) well, it says it works on serrated edges too but it seems to have dulled the hell out of my blade. just bought one of the worksharp field sharpeners because it seems to be a fool proof system that delivers great results compared to a pull through system.
I use the guided field sharpener the most. However I was with Dexter Ewing today and got to see his FFS and that’s pretty cool. Idk if I’m the only one but I prefer the flat ceramic. I would love a guided field sharpener platform with a flat ceramic! I’ve been contemplating modifying a GFS to make this happen.
You can sharpen a knife with almost anything, if you can sharpen a knife... particularly for butchering, meat responds well to the sort of micro-serrations you get from a carborundum stone. An ultra fine mirror smooth edge doesn't do well when you come to tendon or silverskin.
@@CrimeVid I prefer a toothy edge on about everything. The polished edge looks nice but when you down to what works best. A lower grit edge with more bite is what I like.
Exactly, that first "sharpener" id say is similar use to a kitchen steel, just roll an edge back up to keep the knife workable while dressing an animal, but to actually sharpen a knife yoy need stones or belts from rough to fine and then hone the edge to get it sharp
Guys, I have the New Worksharp with the new Grinding attachment my only complaint is the spring is very hard to use and the belts constantly get caught up on the black Chasity very upsetting
the pull through knife sharpeners are good at getting a basic edge to start with if it is really dull before you use a sharpening stone but not much else
opposite; shape and sharpen the dull blade with the stone, then finish with light pull thru strokes, now for a very long time all that will be needed to resharpen is a few pull thru strokes, some pull thru sharpeners are so small they fit in a pocket so it's always handy
What's the theory behind putting a more obtuse angle on a thicker knife? I'm almost of the opposite opinion: if it has more material to support the edge, the edge can be finer.
I have that cheap Buck knife; it's not 440c, that's incorrect. It's 420HC Bos heat treated, it will hold an edge longer than other 400 steels. They have a cheap 420J series, but this isn't part of it.
Oh man, can't believe we messed that up 🤦♂️ It is 420HC with BOS, and it is the best bang for your buck (pun intended) you can get in a hunting knife in my opinion.
@@WorkSharpOutdoor Lol no worries! I would agree it's one of the best for such a cheap price with that great heat treat. I appreciate the honest video about these sharpeners. It actually makes me trust WorkSharp a bit more even if I don't own one of your stones or grinders (yet?).
In the field while gutting the animal who is going to take the time to sharpen with a stone? I have a field sharpener and like it but it's more of a back at camp sharpener. I also have the Ken onion sharpener and blade grinder but that's a back at home sharpener. In the moment, I use a pull through to get the job done and then use the better sharpener at camp or at home.
The motorized units are not needed it you know how to sharpen. They waste a lot of material. I like all the field sharpeners displayed there. Wicked edge is a great system for exacting edge refurb while minimizing steel loss
I love worksharp and own most every product actually but even selling those pull through systems, it makes you look bad. It’s money sure, but at the cost of principles and appearance… stop selling that shit and you guys are even more rock solid. I know for a fact none of you guys would let those touch your own knives. lol. Good work overall though. Just got another set in the other day from WS. :)
It's actually not even about the sales. Believe it or not many of the retailers we work with have required a pull through sharpener to be included as a part of what Work Sharp sells to the stores. And our carbide sharpeners are better than the others because of the convex carbide shape.
The funny thing is those super hard expensive knive are always blunt when confronted with a big animal ho dress in the field. The cheapest butcher knife is usually the best with a steel or carbide sharpener on the spot. Because my experience is half way through the dressing the knife feels dull and needs a little saw tooth edge
@@WorkSharpOutdoor I honestly think Buck's heat treat is under appreciated. The heat treatment on a blade is very important, not to mention the hand finished sharpening!
If you don’t believe in a product, don’t sell it. Pull through V sharpeners are garbage! I really like the new sharpener with the pocket clip. I think the preset angle guides should be ditched so you can take the stone to the tool, like sharpening an axe or broadhead in the field.
Here we go again LoL. At some point I'm going to pick up your bigger field sharpener, it'll be good for HOME use and I'm finally getting decent on a stone or small diamond sharpener As all the ones you have on the table are too big for the pocket in my line of work, I lay flooring for a living, bending at the hips and knees all day. I have many different pull throughs, now and then a new one will come out and I'll buy it, but to no avail,,,they All FAIL except one, the LANSKY BLADE MEDIC. I don't know what it is about it but it's the best there is, I guess it's the angle. You see, I'm the pull through guy everyone hates because I swear by it. Yeah I've seen MANY professional knife sharpeners on TH-cam absolutely trashing them and demonstrating them,,,THE WRONG WAY !!! It gives me that gut wrenching feeling everytime I watch someone talking trash and purposefully missusing it putting a ton of pressure on the carbide side taking about ten years of life from the knife, the carbide is ONLY for reshaping the edge if you get a nick in the blade, some steels will take a very keen edge with it but you have to be careful. ONLY the lightest strokes needed. Like I've told the others, I get it about the scratches on the edge, I do, but you can't tell me a pull through is trash and ruins my blade, when I can use mine and easily shave the hair off my arms and try this with a SOMEWHAT sharp knife, go get you a Styrofoam cup and fillet the side so thin it almost fillets any logo and just nearly still leaves ink on the cup or Styrofoam that has the bigger loosely packed together like what they use to box up furniture with that when you rub your fingers across it the beads go flying everywhere. When your blade sinks into that with no resistance and doesn't cause the beads to go flying,,, well that's a pretty sharp blade. Will it get it hair whittleing, no. And yes the ceramic sharpens the steel, not just flipping the edge over. Would it sharpen rex 121, no, but it does sharpen 20cv as I have a ZT 0642, yeah it take a little time. Do I work for LANSKY, NO,,, it just works. Went hog hunting with my boys once, my sons hunting knife wouldn't do the trick so I reluctantly took out my BENCHMADE BEDLAM, sharpened it up with the blade medic and it skinned and cleaned three big hogs with ZERO problems on just the one edge. Afterwards just poured some rubbing alcohol on it to clean it, sprayed just a dab of CLP in the pivot and good as new. If that's not good enough for you I don't know what else to say. YES,,, there's a technique to using one, get the edge where it's starting to grab your finger tips then start pulling through very lightly, at this point I'm not dragging the knife through it I'm pointing the tip upwards with the edge away from me and barely touching the edge dragging the sharpener up the blade then doing it on one side of the edge then the other but you have to keep checking the edge, too much and you'll actually take the edge off and its back to square one as I've done this many times. Sometimes I'll alternate with the pull through ceramic then to the little ceramic rod that it has also and the work together really well. Yes of course the honing is done on the ceramic portion if the sharpener. Like with a stone freehanding it it's very important to keep the same angle, in a pull through it's straight up and down or your done. I bought a Spyderco Yojumbo at this years Blade Show Texas, yeah, it was pretty sharp then I took and pulled it through on one side of the blade then the other twice on each side of the blade ever so slightly and it was knight and day difference sharper,,, I'm just saying. Spydercos S30V use to be my arch nemesis with the blade medic, just couldn't get it sharp until I figured out using on one side of the edge then the other not letting the blade bottom out in the V of the ceramic so to speak, Don know why but it was a game changer for their S30V, Benchmades, no problem but Spydercos is an different story. 20cv , S35VN,154cm, 14c28n, AUS8, CTS-XHP, 440C and the likes of those gets crazy sharp. I've responded and explained to three or four guys trashing them how they were using them they were doing it wrong and you know what, I've had absolutely ZERO responses, NOT ONE. Is it the absolute best way to sharpen a knife, probably not BUT IT WORKS is all I'm saying, I've been using them for over a decade and have been through MANY BLADE MEDICS and as many times that I've sharpened some of my knives if you used a stone of any kind there would be nothing left of the blade,with the LANSKY they just nearly look like you just pulled it out of the box. In the field I need something small, quick and easy and the one I use fits the bill and you barely know it's in your pocket. I have a MANIX XL, that I accidentally got a good little nick in it and I had to use the carbide to get it out and it took quite a while then another long while to get the edge smooth again,yeah, if I knew how to use a diamond stone then it'd been fast but I couldn't use one effectively to save my life and if you watched me use one you would have cringed I'm sure. Any ways you guys have great products, my friend has your Ken Onion edition and says it takes the fun out of sharpening as it's so fast and he can use a stone or rod by hand and get an edge hair whittling sharp after stropping, I did however enjoy your video and will watch more, thank you, stay safe and God bless.
I sharpen my Fallkniven knives to 25 degrees and this works well. The Worksharp belt grinder does a good job of maintaining the convex edge.
Find a way please for us benchmade guys that use 17 degree angles, and take a 25 degree field sharpener more applicable. Make the angles able to be switched out like the Work Sharp Benchstone and it can be used more universally. Magnets would be a great thing to have to snap the angle guides off and on and bam! 17 degree in the field slappin away on the benchmade.
@PittsburghDisneyFans If you have room in your kit, the big guided sharpening kit has all of your wants sorted.
I agree 100 percent
Agree 100% and I am Spyderco guy but I do sharpen at 15 and 17 Dps. I think Worksharp should make at least the MKC angles a standard in their portfolio. Modern steels and modern heat treat is way ahead of 20/25 Dps protocols.
We hear you loud and clear. I also know that most knives that claim to be 15-17 are actually closer to 20-22 DPS. And if you want to sharpen to 15 or 17, we won't stop you, and we hear your feedback.
@WorkSharpOutdoor thanks for chiming in and getting back. As always, you guys are first class customer service.
What degree do you recommend to sharpen your hunting knife. On the chart with the MK2 it states 25. And during your videos you say 20. What’s the best and why?
Thanks
First off, I love the worksharp systems and the quality performance they Im really loving the idea of the folding field sharpener. I think it is an amazing step forward for basic edge maintenance and touch-up work. But, like others have said, I do wish there was a way to not have the fixed 25 degree on the ceramic for micro beveling. I understand the theory and practice behind it, and I agree with it in a fashion of sorts. But I like keeping the established angles and maintaining them that way. That's where the old 50030 maintenance tool comes in. And I loved that product so much! Was so sad to see the discontinuation of it. I was hoping for the folding field sharpener to also be offered in a similar configuration more in the direction of maintenance rather than quick and fast metal removal. More of an everyday use maintaining type case, rather than an urgent edge care and repair where you need an edge as fast as possible.
Bought a pull through sharpener for $5. (new to sharpening btw) well, it says it works on serrated edges too but it seems to have dulled the hell out of my blade. just bought one of the worksharp field sharpeners because it seems to be a fool proof system that delivers great results compared to a pull through system.
I use the guided field sharpener the most. However I was with Dexter Ewing today and got to see his FFS and that’s pretty cool. Idk if I’m the only one but I prefer the flat ceramic. I would love a guided field sharpener platform with a flat ceramic! I’ve been contemplating modifying a GFS to make this happen.
You can sharpen a knife with almost anything, if you can sharpen a knife... particularly for butchering, meat responds well to the sort of micro-serrations you get from a carborundum stone. An ultra fine mirror smooth edge doesn't do well when you come to tendon or silverskin.
@@CrimeVid I prefer a toothy edge on about everything. The polished edge looks nice but when you down to what works best. A lower grit edge with more bite is what I like.
Great video and explanation
Glad yall are showing the steep country
Exactly, that first "sharpener" id say is similar use to a kitchen steel, just roll an edge back up to keep the knife workable while dressing an animal, but to actually sharpen a knife yoy need stones or belts from rough to fine and then hone the edge to get it sharp
Guys, I have the New Worksharp with the new Grinding attachment my only complaint is the spring is very hard to use and the belts constantly get caught up on the black Chasity very upsetting
the pull through knife sharpeners are good at getting a basic edge to start with if it is really dull before you use a sharpening stone but not much else
opposite; shape and sharpen the dull blade with the stone, then finish with light pull thru strokes, now for a very long time all that will be needed to resharpen is a few pull thru strokes, some pull thru sharpeners are so small they fit in a pocket so it's always handy
What's the theory behind putting a more obtuse angle on a thicker knife? I'm almost of the opposite opinion: if it has more material to support the edge, the edge can be finer.
I agree 100%. Well said
Does the angle at which you hold the knife change based off the width blade to get to a certain degree angle?
I believe so
I love your products. 👍
Will you start offering non loaded strops for precision pro?
We have something in the works!
I have that cheap Buck knife; it's not 440c, that's incorrect. It's 420HC Bos heat treated, it will hold an edge longer than other 400 steels. They have a cheap 420J series, but this isn't part of it.
Oh man, can't believe we messed that up 🤦♂️
It is 420HC with BOS, and it is the best bang for your buck (pun intended) you can get in a hunting knife in my opinion.
@@WorkSharpOutdoor Lol no worries! I would agree it's one of the best for such a cheap price with that great heat treat.
I appreciate the honest video about these sharpeners. It actually makes me trust WorkSharp a bit more even if I don't own one of your stones or grinders (yet?).
Great information! 🤘🤠
Good, Thx
In the field while gutting the animal who is going to take the time to sharpen with a stone? I have a field sharpener and like it but it's more of a back at camp sharpener. I also have the Ken onion sharpener and blade grinder but that's a back at home sharpener. In the moment, I use a pull through to get the job done and then use the better sharpener at camp or at home.
Replace the carbide rods with diamond on the pull through sharpener
The motorized units are not needed it you know how to sharpen. They waste a lot of material.
I like all the field sharpeners displayed there.
Wicked edge is a great system for exacting edge refurb while minimizing steel loss
I love worksharp and own most every product actually but even selling those pull through systems, it makes you look bad. It’s money sure, but at the cost of principles and appearance… stop selling that shit and you guys are even more rock solid. I know for a fact none of you guys would let those touch your own knives. lol. Good work overall though. Just got another set in the other day from WS. :)
It's actually not even about the sales. Believe it or not many of the retailers we work with have required a pull through sharpener to be included as a part of what Work Sharp sells to the stores. And our carbide sharpeners are better than the others because of the convex carbide shape.
Love it
The funny thing is those super hard expensive knive are always blunt when confronted with a big animal ho dress in the field.
The cheapest butcher knife is usually the best with a steel or carbide sharpener on the spot.
Because my experience is half way through the dressing the knife feels dull and needs a little saw tooth edge
They Bucklite is 440 steel?? 🤔🤔
No lol It's 420HC Bos heat treated. I don't know how they got that so confidently wrong as most Buck knives are 420HC.
It's 420HC... Oops. Thanks for paying attention.
@@WorkSharpOutdoor I honestly think Buck's heat treat is under appreciated. The heat treatment on a blade is very important, not to mention the hand finished sharpening!
When does KO2 comes to Europe? Do you know guys?
January! Maybe available in December. Keep your eye out. Biker, or Knives and tools, and a few others have orders shipping to them soon.
@@WorkSharpOutdoor Thanks!
If you don’t believe in a product, don’t sell it. Pull through V sharpeners are garbage!
I really like the new sharpener with the pocket clip. I think the preset angle guides should be ditched so you can take the stone to the tool, like sharpening an axe or broadhead in the field.
v sharpeners are a wonderful thing, it's silly to dismiss them
Here we go again LoL. At some point I'm going to pick up your bigger field sharpener, it'll be good for HOME use and I'm finally getting decent on a stone or small diamond sharpener As all the ones you have on the table are too big for the pocket in my line of work, I lay flooring for a living, bending at the hips and knees all day. I have many different pull throughs, now and then a new one will come out and I'll buy it, but to no avail,,,they All FAIL except one, the LANSKY BLADE MEDIC. I don't know what it is about it but it's the best there is, I guess it's the angle. You see, I'm the pull through guy everyone hates because I swear by it. Yeah I've seen MANY professional knife sharpeners on TH-cam absolutely trashing them and demonstrating them,,,THE WRONG WAY !!! It gives me that gut wrenching feeling everytime I watch someone talking trash and purposefully missusing it putting a ton of pressure on the carbide side taking about ten years of life from the knife, the carbide is ONLY for reshaping the edge if you get a nick in the blade, some steels will take a very keen edge with it but you have to be careful. ONLY the lightest strokes needed. Like I've told the others, I get it about the scratches on the edge, I do, but you can't tell me a pull through is trash and ruins my blade, when I can use mine and easily shave the hair off my arms and try this with a SOMEWHAT sharp knife, go get you a Styrofoam cup and fillet the side so thin it almost fillets any logo and just nearly still leaves ink on the cup or Styrofoam that has the bigger loosely packed together like what they use to box up furniture with that when you rub your fingers across it the beads go flying everywhere. When your blade sinks into that with no resistance and doesn't cause the beads to go flying,,, well that's a pretty sharp blade. Will it get it hair whittleing, no. And yes the ceramic sharpens the steel, not just flipping the edge over. Would it sharpen rex 121, no, but it does sharpen 20cv as I have a ZT 0642, yeah it take a little time. Do I work for LANSKY, NO,,, it just works. Went hog hunting with my boys once, my sons hunting knife wouldn't do the trick so I reluctantly took out my BENCHMADE BEDLAM, sharpened it up with the blade medic and it skinned and cleaned three big hogs with ZERO problems on just the one edge. Afterwards just poured some rubbing alcohol on it to clean it, sprayed just a dab of CLP in the pivot and good as new. If that's not good enough for you I don't know what else to say. YES,,, there's a technique to using one, get the edge where it's starting to grab your finger tips then start pulling through very lightly, at this point I'm not dragging the knife through it I'm pointing the tip upwards with the edge away from me and barely touching the edge dragging the sharpener up the blade then doing it on one side of the edge then the other but you have to keep checking the edge, too much and you'll actually take the edge off and its back to square one as I've done this many times. Sometimes I'll alternate with the pull through ceramic then to the little ceramic rod that it has also and the work together really well. Yes of course the honing is done on the ceramic portion if the sharpener. Like with a stone freehanding it it's very important to keep the same angle, in a pull through it's straight up and down or your done. I bought a Spyderco Yojumbo at this years Blade Show Texas, yeah, it was pretty sharp then I took and pulled it through on one side of the blade then the other twice on each side of the blade ever so slightly and it was knight and day difference sharper,,, I'm just saying. Spydercos S30V use to be my arch nemesis with the blade medic, just couldn't get it sharp until I figured out using on one side of the edge then the other not letting the blade bottom out in the V of the ceramic so to speak, Don know why but it was a game changer for their S30V, Benchmades, no problem but Spydercos is an different story. 20cv , S35VN,154cm, 14c28n, AUS8, CTS-XHP, 440C and the likes of those gets crazy sharp. I've responded and explained to three or four guys trashing them how they were using them they were doing it wrong and you know what, I've had absolutely ZERO responses, NOT ONE. Is it the absolute best way to sharpen a knife, probably not BUT IT WORKS is all I'm saying, I've been using them for over a decade and have been through MANY BLADE MEDICS and as many times that I've sharpened some of my knives if you used a stone of any kind there would be nothing left of the blade,with the LANSKY they just nearly look like you just pulled it out of the box. In the field I need something small, quick and easy and the one I use fits the bill and you barely know it's in your pocket. I have a MANIX XL, that I accidentally got a good little nick in it and I had to use the carbide to get it out and it took quite a while then another long while to get the edge smooth again,yeah, if I knew how to use a diamond stone then it'd been fast but I couldn't use one effectively to save my life and if you watched me use one you would have cringed I'm sure. Any ways you guys have great products, my friend has your Ken Onion edition and says it takes the fun out of sharpening as it's so fast and he can use a stone or rod by hand and get an edge hair whittling sharp after stropping, I did however enjoy your video and will watch more, thank you, stay safe and God bless.
Falkivin knives are weak..first to go in destruction test. No disrespect.
Folks just need to get back to simpler times.