Gday Patrick, I learnt this from Nigel at GO Create Hobby Machineshop, Nigel explains how to do this much better then I did and it works well, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Gday Peter, id say there was a few bits that come on the same order and all got the same freight charge, first bitten twice shy here, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
pro tip for fitting the bearings Matty. Prestart the bearings with hammer and m/s drift. going 100% with the press risks ruining the bore if the bearing starts cock eyed. Another trick is to make a short counterbore of bearing size+.05mm. Depth = radius of bearing shoulder. This will help getting the bearing square with the bore. Regarding the touch DRO on the lathe be sure to look for 0.005mm or better resolution on the cross slide scale. Remember the counter doubles the tool movement to read diameter! As far as I know the mag scales are only good for 0.01 resolution
Gday, I'm really happy with how the taper is locking together, I've made a few MT3 arbors before but this would be the best so far, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Still watching the video but I had to jump down and comment on the Touch DRO System. I purchased one and set it up on my old Milrite knee mill and I absolutely love it, money well spent. And not a lot $ compared to other systems.
Gday, the TouchDRO is a brilliant setup, very easy to use and full of features, I kinda wish I put a TouchDRO on the lathe now, thanks for watching, cheers
Hello Matty, Nice work, I must admit if I ever need to know something my first ports of call are Nigel and Max... their knowledge is so vast and normally the answer I am looking for is there... See you on the next one. Take care. Paul,,
Gday Paul, both these guys are a wealth of knowledge and there's a lot to be learnt in everyone of there videos, we are lucky to have them both in the TH-cam community, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
Good work Matty. Keep the videos coming. In regards to setting the compound slide for the morse taper, I remember (having retired from machining many years ago) that what we did was to find an arbor, sleeve or any other tooling which had a morse taper on it, chuck it, then use this to set your angle. No calculations, no guesswork and it worked every time. Cheers buddy.
Gday, I have in the past set the compound using another morse taper and indicator, it worked really well, I like the challenge of using indicators and seeing how close I can get things, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Gday Matt, Great to hear your enjoying the series, Its been a big learning curve with the setups to get everything true and concentric, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Gday, Everything is coming together nicely so far, i'm just taking my time and trying to hit all the numbers spot on, so far so good, Thanks for watching and commenting mate,. Cheers
Gday Jon, so far everything is working out great, I'm really happy with the morse taper, that turned out better then I thought it was going to, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Thanks so much! This build is beautiful. It was so satisfying to see those 4 bolts drop in and find the threads immediately like that. That DRO interface is amazing. I wish they would have been around when I was active.
Gday Bruce, the bolt pattern turned out spot on, the touchDRO really is a great unit, simple to learn the basics, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
Nice job on the taper Matty. They're never easy to get right. There's a new version of TouchDRO in the pipeline too. It has some interesting new features.
Gday Preso, I better hold off on getting the dro and see what the new version is like, I can’t fault the unit I have in the Cincinnati, thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Hi Matty, it did show in my feed, but as 6 days ago ( repeating an earlier subscriber), I left a comment, but it said there were 4 others, but couldn't see them?. Any way, great job as per usual, and really good photography, appreciate the work involved 👍. That "Touch DRO" looks a great tool. Instead of using the "Hi-Spot or Micrometer Blue" to check the taper, just use the Sharpie marker on the male part, a few longitudinal lines is all you need to check fit, lot less messy than the Hi-Spot blue. We used to used to use layout ink on press form tools. Thanks for sharing and best regards from the UK 🇬🇧 John.
Gday, the TouchDRO is very easy to use, its got a simple interface and compared to the conventional DRO, I'm definitely going to put the same DRO on the lathe, Using a sharpie is a good idea and a lot less messy, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
I thought I was the only one that used a sharpie to check the bolt circle on the DRO. I starting doing it after I fat fingered a wrong digit during setup and ruined the part I was working on. The backing plate looks like a store bought piece, really nice work Matty. looking forward to part 4.
Gday, The TouchDRO is a brilliant unit but I still do a dummy run with the sharpie just to make sure I didn't screw up, Im really happy with how the backplate turned out, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Gday Kev, This would be the most precise build i've done, The TouchDRO is a brilliant setup, I'll be putting the same setup on the lathe one day, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
G'Day Matty, lovely work on the Taper. Not many could have done better. I noticed in your previous video machining the weldment, when ever you do a weldment and don't stress relieve the part it will move as you machine and will continue to move weeks after machining. This can be minute, but as you saw when re-clocking a face to machine and then clock the rear face after a previsions machining operation you do see ever so slightly some movement on the dial. This can be put down to the part relaxing after that first machining operation. As your part is very stout its not a problem and the movement would never be noticeable for the job it needs to do. Stress relieving can be done a number of ways - Heat, soak the part to 650 Degrees C for one hour per 25mm of section then allow to cool down in the furnace. High frequency Unltra sonic vibration. Good for very large components where transport to a large oven is impracticable as it can be done at the fabrication site. Age relieving. Rolls Royce do this with their engine blocks. Cast them and then leave them in a paddock for 5 - 10 years. Cam
Gday Cam, I didn't give stress relief a thought, Thanks for explain this and something I need too remember for future projects, The morse taper turned out good in the end, thankfully, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Gday, this is what I did hear, I have screwed up before and left the material to short and had to start again, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
Since the taper ended up slightly wrong at first, it may be an idea to check that the side of the compound is dead parallel to the motion of the compound. Also, if the compound indicator is not exactly horizontal then the plunger movement is exaggerated (cosine error) resulting in a taper that is too shallow. But after the tweak, you nailed it. Nice finish, too.
Gday Chris, I didn't realise the indicator was straight until I seen the footage, I dare say this would have been the problem, in the end it turned out good, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Lol, I totally did the marker thing too my first time around 🤣. The interface on your dro is quite impressive 😊. Tuning in that morse taper angle can be maddening at times. Looking good, Matty! Think you nailed it! 😁 Cheers!
Gday Chris, The TouchDRO is brilliant, really easy to use and the functions are self explanatory really, cutting the taper takes a bit to setup but its good when it works out, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
I have Touch DRO on my mill also and I love it. I am still trying to teach myself the different functions but as we know experience is always the best teacher. The more I use it the more I understand it and trust it. Dave M did a written instruction manual on PDF downloadable. But I have seen no one make a complete tutorial on all the functions on You Tube. I think it would be a good project for someone but it would take some time to do it so it is user friendly. Thanks for the video. Wishing you Good Health.
Gday Terry, I have found the DRO to be very easy to use, I've tested it many times with a dial indicator and its been spot on every time, even to a half thou indicator, from what ive seen on YT, the TouchDRO is much easier to set the bolt circle pattern compared to the conventional DRO units, I'll be putting a TouchDRO on the lathe as soon as I have some spare coin, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Concerning your tool holder nicking the live center, I have on some of my holders and taken them to the surface grinder with a multi angle vice and relieved that portion of the holder as to not interfere. No judgement on you mind you. I see and think that most of these holders like the one you used are too thick. Cheers mate. Keep them coming.
That's what I need to do on a couple of my holders on my smaller centers anything around 5/8 to 1/2 and under and the corner of my holder will hit the center so I can't start at the end of the stock
Hi Maty, I feel your frustrations over shipping costs. When I buy something in and it says free shipping and I want two all of a sudden there's $$ shipping added. I just order one. Wait an hour and order the second one. Very often they arrive in the same package but I've not paid shipping. The machining you're about to do on the "nose" of the arbour I'd be wary of using the sleeve unless you're very sure of its concentricity. Any dings in either surface will upset your, so far, concentric mandrel could be affected. I'd almost be tempted to lightly skim bore the sleeve to make sure. If you have the appropriate reamer that would at least get rid of any burrs. Alternatively turn it between centres on a trued up dead centre. Looking forward to part four. Regards from Canada's banana belt. 👍🍌🇨🇦🕊️🇺🇦🤞
Gday Ron, its hard to believe the freight was that price considering the size of the items being shipped, i've had an indicator on the MT5-MT3 adaptor and its spot on, I did run over the surfaces with a precision flat stone to make sure there was no bumps or dings, Thanks for watching and commenting , Cheers
Hi Matty, just a tip I saw elsewhere on a machinists YT channel. It's actually easier to set holes in your DRO by adding an extra hole and starting and ending at the same position. To explain that, say we have 4 holes like you had, set it for 5 holes and start and end at 0, it'll plot the first and last holes in the same place ... not a big deal in this case, but let's say we had seven holes to drill and the first was at 37 degrees, calculating the end hole might be a bit of a problem y'know, 360/7 = and then make sure the last hole is at 37 - whatever the answer was, where you could say 8 holes, starting and ending at 37 degrees .... just a thought.
Gday Graedon, it's looking good so far mate, the touchDRO is bloody awesome, definitely be putting one on the lathe, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
It did upload and I commented. What was confusing was it said 6 days old. That threw me as I hadn't seen it sooner. Then after a commented, if said 6 hours old. So I've watched it twice now. Just as entertaining 😊😊
Gday Neil, I screwed up a week ago and released part 3 before part 2, I made the video private again about 1/2 after it went up and put up part 2, everything was good, then I released part 3 a week later but something went wrong and it wasn't showing up in notifications, it got 7 views in 8 hrs, I deleted the video and re-uploaded it and its working fine now, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
Gday, I did make a mistake last week and released part 3 instead of part 2 but then made it private, Last night I made part 3 public but something went wrong and had to delete the video and re-upload it again, seems to be working ok now, Thanks for watching, Cheers
I imagine if the part supplier were to find out you are a TH-cam content creator with over 9500 subscribers & you were to out him on the cost of shipping, he might want to take another look at that transaction.
Gday, the manager at the shop knows i'm a TH-cam creator but doesn't seem to make any difference, I'll have to plan ahead and buy elsewhere from now on, Thanks for watching and commenting mate Cheers
Gday John, I'm slowly getting there, great to hear your enjoying the series, There's one more video to come mate, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
Cool trick for setting the lathe up for MT. Thanks for sharing there Matty.
Gday Patrick, I learnt this from Nigel at GO Create Hobby Machineshop, Nigel explains how to do this much better then I did and it works well, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
G'day Matty. Looking good mate. "Plus freight" it does make you think was I the only order that day. Keep up the good work, cheers. Peter
Gday Peter, id say there was a few bits that come on the same order and all got the same freight charge, first bitten twice shy here, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Good work with the Morse taper Mattie - project is coming together nicely..
Cheers, Alan.
Thanks Alan, this project has been a big learning curve in accuracy which is what I needed, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
Great work Matty enjoyed watching the machining. Tony
Gday Tony, Im glad your enjoying the videos, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
pro tip for fitting the bearings Matty. Prestart the bearings with hammer and m/s drift. going 100% with the press risks ruining the bore if the bearing starts cock eyed. Another trick is to make a short counterbore of bearing size+.05mm. Depth = radius of bearing shoulder. This will help getting the bearing square with the bore. Regarding the touch DRO on the lathe be sure to look for 0.005mm or better resolution on the cross slide scale. Remember the counter doubles the tool movement to read diameter! As far as I know the mag scales are only good for 0.01 resolution
Nice job 👍👍👍 it's a pain going back and forth for a taper setup but so satisfying when it locks in with light pressure 👍👍👍
Gday, I'm really happy with how the taper is locking together, I've made a few MT3 arbors before but this would be the best so far, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Still watching the video but I had to jump down and comment on the Touch DRO System. I purchased one and set it up on my old Milrite knee mill and I absolutely love it, money well spent. And not a lot $ compared to other systems.
Gday, the TouchDRO is a brilliant setup, very easy to use and full of features, I kinda wish I put a TouchDRO on the lathe now, thanks for watching, cheers
👍 Coming along quite nicely, Matty.
Thanks mate, appreciate you watching and commenting, Cheers
Hello Matty,
Nice work, I must admit if I ever need to know something my first ports of call are Nigel and Max... their knowledge is so vast and normally the answer I am looking for is there... See you on the next one.
Take care.
Paul,,
Gday Paul, both these guys are a wealth of knowledge and there's a lot to be learnt in everyone of there videos, we are lucky to have them both in the TH-cam community, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
That’s coming along Great Matty, Looking forward to part 4. Gary
Gday Gary, So far so good mate, Really appreciate you watch and commenting, Cheers
Good work Matty. Keep the videos coming.
In regards to setting the compound slide for the morse taper, I remember (having retired from machining many years ago) that what we did was to find an arbor, sleeve or any other tooling which had a morse taper on it, chuck it, then use this to set your angle. No calculations, no guesswork and it worked every time.
Cheers buddy.
Gday, I have in the past set the compound using another morse taper and indicator, it worked really well, I like the challenge of using indicators and seeing how close I can get things, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Back plate and MT3 looking good there.
Thanks Tom, Im really happy with how things are turning out is far, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
really enjoying this series matty, thanks for sharing.
Gday Matt, Great to hear your enjoying the series, Its been a big learning curve with the setups to get everything true and concentric, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks Craig, appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Great work Matty, nice taper method, got to love it when a plan comes together, cheers mate!
Gday, Everything is coming together nicely so far, i'm just taking my time and trying to hit all the numbers spot on, so far so good, Thanks for watching and commenting mate,. Cheers
Nice job Matty, chuck looks great on the back plate mate and MT 3 turned out very nice. Cheers, Jon
Gday Jon, so far everything is working out great, I'm really happy with the morse taper, that turned out better then I thought it was going to, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Beautiful work!
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Thanks very much Paul, apperciate you watching mate, Cheers
Thanks so much! This build is beautiful. It was so satisfying to see those 4 bolts drop in and find the threads immediately like that. That DRO interface is amazing. I wish they would have been around when I was active.
Gday Bruce, the bolt pattern turned out spot on, the touchDRO really is a great unit, simple to learn the basics, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
I really like the set up idea for the taper.
Gday Terry, it does work well, Cheers
love watching you Channel....best wishes , Paul from the Other Sunshine State, Florida
Gday Paul, great to here you enjoy the channel mate, appreciate you watching and commenting, cheers
Taper bearings ... proper job.
Gday Paul, trying to do it right mate, thanks for watching and commenting mate, cheers
Nice job on the taper Matty. They're never easy to get right. There's a new version of TouchDRO in the pipeline too. It has some interesting new features.
Gday Preso, I better hold off on getting the dro and see what the new version is like, I can’t fault the unit I have in the Cincinnati, thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Hi Matty, it did show in my feed, but as 6 days ago ( repeating an earlier subscriber), I left a comment, but it said there were 4 others, but couldn't see them?.
Any way, great job as per usual, and really good photography, appreciate the work involved 👍.
That "Touch DRO" looks a great tool.
Instead of using the "Hi-Spot or Micrometer Blue" to check the taper, just use the Sharpie marker on the male part, a few longitudinal lines is all you need to check fit, lot less messy than the Hi-Spot blue. We used to used to use layout ink on press form tools.
Thanks for sharing and best regards from the UK 🇬🇧 John.
Gday, the TouchDRO is very easy to use, its got a simple interface and compared to the conventional DRO, I'm definitely going to put the same DRO on the lathe, Using a sharpie is a good idea and a lot less messy, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
I thought I was the only one that used a sharpie to check the bolt circle on the DRO. I starting doing it after I fat fingered a wrong digit during setup and ruined the part I was working on. The backing plate looks like a store bought piece, really nice work Matty. looking forward to part 4.
Gday, The TouchDRO is a brilliant unit but I still do a dummy run with the sharpie just to make sure I didn't screw up, Im really happy with how the backplate turned out, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Great job Matty
Very precise work and i really like the DRO
take Care
Kev
Gday Kev, This would be the most precise build i've done, The TouchDRO is a brilliant setup, I'll be putting the same setup on the lathe one day, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
Coming along great, Matty. Interesting way to set the taper angle. I don't think I had seen that before.
Gday, I learnt this from Nigel at Go Create Hobby Machine Shop when I made the floating reamer holder, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
G'Day Matty, lovely work on the Taper. Not many could have done better. I noticed in your previous video machining the weldment, when ever you do a weldment and don't stress relieve the part it will move as you machine and will continue to move weeks after machining. This can be minute, but as you saw when re-clocking a face to machine and then clock the rear face after a previsions machining operation you do see ever so slightly some movement on the dial. This can be put down to the part relaxing after that first machining operation. As your part is very stout its not a problem and the movement would never be noticeable for the job it needs to do. Stress relieving can be done a number of ways -
Heat, soak the part to 650 Degrees C for one hour per 25mm of section then allow to cool down in the furnace.
High frequency Unltra sonic vibration. Good for very large components where transport to a large oven is impracticable as it can be done at the fabrication site.
Age relieving. Rolls Royce do this with their engine blocks. Cast them and then leave them in a paddock for 5 - 10 years.
Cam
Gday Cam, I didn't give stress relief a thought, Thanks for explain this and something I need too remember for future projects, The morse taper turned out good in the end, thankfully, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Matty….
Very noice mate 👌
Regards
Robert
Gday Robert, So far so good mate, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
To make tapers it's always a good idea to leave extra material left and right (if possible) to play with.
Gday, this is what I did hear, I have screwed up before and left the material to short and had to start again, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
Since the taper ended up slightly wrong at first, it may be an idea to check that the side of the compound is dead parallel to the motion of the compound. Also, if the compound indicator is not exactly horizontal then the plunger movement is exaggerated (cosine error) resulting in a taper that is too shallow. But after the tweak, you nailed it. Nice finish, too.
Gday Chris, I didn't realise the indicator was straight until I seen the footage, I dare say this would have been the problem, in the end it turned out good, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Lol, I totally did the marker thing too my first time around 🤣. The interface on your dro is quite impressive 😊.
Tuning in that morse taper angle can be maddening at times. Looking good, Matty! Think you nailed it! 😁
Cheers!
Gday Chris, The TouchDRO is brilliant, really easy to use and the functions are self explanatory really, cutting the taper takes a bit to setup but its good when it works out, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Excellent job matty, really nice build, great video, keep'um coming..
Thanks very much mate, Appreciate you watching and commenting, Cheers
I have Touch DRO on my mill also and I love it. I am still trying to teach myself the different functions but as we know experience is always the best teacher. The more I use it the more I understand it and trust it. Dave M did a written instruction manual on PDF downloadable. But I have seen no one make a complete tutorial on all the functions on You Tube. I think it would be a good project for someone but it would take some time to do it so it is user friendly. Thanks for the video. Wishing you Good Health.
Gday Terry, I have found the DRO to be very easy to use, I've tested it many times with a dial indicator and its been spot on every time, even to a half thou indicator, from what ive seen on YT, the TouchDRO is much easier to set the bolt circle pattern compared to the conventional DRO units, I'll be putting a TouchDRO on the lathe as soon as I have some spare coin, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Thanks for the video mate. 👍🇦🇺
No worries, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
Great job Matt.
Thanks very much mate, Cheers
looking good Sir.
Thank mate, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Concerning your tool holder nicking the live center, I have on some of my holders and taken them to the surface grinder with a multi angle vice and relieved that portion of the holder as to not interfere. No judgement on you mind you. I see and think that most of these holders like the one you used are too thick. Cheers mate. Keep them coming.
That's what I need to do on a couple of my holders on my smaller centers anything around 5/8 to 1/2 and under and the corner of my holder will hit the center so I can't start at the end of the stock
Gday, I should modify the tooling or get a different live centre that will have more clearance, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Hi Maty, I feel your frustrations over shipping costs. When I buy something in and it says free shipping and I want two all of a sudden there's $$ shipping added. I just order one. Wait an hour and order the second one. Very often they arrive in the same package but I've not paid shipping.
The machining you're about to do on the "nose" of the arbour I'd be wary of using the sleeve unless you're very sure of its concentricity. Any dings in either surface will upset your, so far, concentric mandrel could be affected. I'd almost be tempted to lightly skim bore the sleeve to make sure. If you have the appropriate reamer that would at least get rid of any burrs.
Alternatively turn it between centres on a trued up dead centre.
Looking forward to part four.
Regards from Canada's banana belt. 👍🍌🇨🇦🕊️🇺🇦🤞
Gday Ron, its hard to believe the freight was that price considering the size of the items being shipped, i've had an indicator on the MT5-MT3 adaptor and its spot on, I did run over the surfaces with a precision flat stone to make sure there was no bumps or dings, Thanks for watching and commenting , Cheers
This upload got a lot more views than the first try. This series definitely is underrated. Cheers Mate 👍👍😊👍👍
Gday Joel, not sure what happened the first time round, Thanks for watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Another one well done Matty!
All the best
Dan
Gday Dan, So far so good mate, Really appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Bloody ripper Matty, I'm seriously looking for the material to make a bugger now lol
Gday Ralfy, I really hope you build one of these, its a good build mate, you'll enjoy it mate, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Hi Matty, just a tip I saw elsewhere on a machinists YT channel. It's actually easier to set holes in your DRO by adding an extra hole and starting and ending at the same position.
To explain that, say we have 4 holes like you had, set it for 5 holes and start and end at 0, it'll plot the first and last holes in the same place ... not a big deal in this case, but let's say we had seven holes to drill and the first was at 37 degrees, calculating the end hole might be a bit of a problem y'know, 360/7 = and then make sure the last hole is at 37 - whatever the answer was, where you could say 8 holes, starting and ending at 37 degrees .... just a thought.
Gday Richard, thats a brillant idea, ill try this out, Thanks for the tip mate, Cheers
@@MattysWorkshop Hi Matty - it wasn't my idea - I saw it in the comments on one of Quinn's videos - use with care ... 😉
Good one . Did you zig when you should have zagged with the compound ! 👍👍👍
Gday Max, I think I did, i'm a slow learner you no, Thanks for watching, Cheers
might need to make a drill chuck adaptor for the compound now :D
might have to mate, Cheers
Sweet made part Matty 💯👍🏻🇬🇧👈🏻awesome
Gday Mark, so far so good mate, Thanks for watching, Cheers
this is really good! like that DRO mate.
Gday Graedon, it's looking good so far mate, the touchDRO is bloody awesome, definitely be putting one on the lathe, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
It did upload and I commented.
What was confusing was it said 6 days old. That threw me as I hadn't seen it sooner. Then after a commented, if said 6 hours old. So I've watched it twice now. Just as entertaining 😊😊
Gday Neil, I screwed up a week ago and released part 3 before part 2, I made the video private again about 1/2 after it went up and put up part 2, everything was good, then I released part 3 a week later but something went wrong and it wasn't showing up in notifications, it got 7 views in 8 hrs, I deleted the video and re-uploaded it and its working fine now, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
good vid fella cheers mate
Thanks very much Paul, Appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Actually, the original did appear in my feed, just with a date 6 days ago. No idea why, I don't know how youtube works either.
Gday, I did make a mistake last week and released part 3 instead of part 2 but then made it private, Last night I made part 3 public but something went wrong and had to delete the video and re-upload it again, seems to be working ok now, Thanks for watching, Cheers
I imagine if the part supplier were to find out you are a TH-cam content creator with over 9500 subscribers & you were to out him on the cost of shipping, he might want to take another look at that transaction.
Gday, the manager at the shop knows i'm a TH-cam creator but doesn't seem to make any difference, I'll have to plan ahead and buy elsewhere from now on, Thanks for watching and commenting mate Cheers
Your blue only showed on one side of the part Matty
Great progression on this project. Really enjoying this series. Thanks!
Gday John, I'm slowly getting there, great to hear your enjoying the series, There's one more video to come mate, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers