2nd time I've done this and it works a treat. So easy to do and the muck that comes out is just great. No problem with hot water once this is done. Thanks again.
Amazing, did the job for me too! My hot water was cutting out after a minute or two after I had drained and refilled the system. Cleaning it out has got it back to running perfectly. Thanks.
I had a Worcester overheating on the hot water just like this. Flow from the Hex was rising to 103 degrees after one minute every time the hot tap was run. I removed the plate heat exchanger and cleaned with sulphuric acid whilst heating with a blow lamp. The customer rang a week later to say she still had the same problem. I tried the method in the video and the boiler is now fine, the flow pipe from the Hex at a constant 73 degrees whilst the hot tap is run!! Top video thanks
Fantastic video done this yesterday only flushed for ten minutes and It worked a treat the black gunk that cam out, now the water is very hot, I will do this every year to keep the system clean, thanks for the video would have cost a fortune to get a engineer out. 👍
Second time I’ve done this - works great - but 2nd time a few things to note. I ran hot water for 20mins as video no problems - but continued demand of hot water to shower - which started to make boiler flutter like usual. I think over 25mins the heat cell may get too hot with the flush inside. The boiler struggled to ignite (I knew burner/electrodes / fan fine) I removed cleaner by opening the valve near to the pump (as per the video but flow valve still closed) the water was thickish black water/ sludge that had loosened. I kept the flow valve closed but repeated pressurising the system & discharging via valve next to pump - probably 6 times until the water was clear. The boiler was then firing / working great. I’m tempted to repeat the flushing method again but will see how system performs over the next few days as I’ll be flushing central heating system / radiators. Prior to flushing it’s worth checking & pressurising the expansion vessel - I hadn’t checked for about 2 years and the pressures varied daily depending on selection of floor zones or radiators chosen (they’re all controlled on a manifold) Thx to Geoffrey for uploading this vid. Boiler 15yrs old & still great on 30yr old radiators for a flat comprising 5 radiators & underfloor heating to 4 rooms. All pipework in plastic / system generally drained & flushed through with mains water annually - inhibitor not usually used & no magnatec installed.
Thanks for the video. I have same issue and getting code U9 on worcester Greensted boiler. There is also an aerosol version of this cleaner. Can that be used instead on syphon method? That way I could just spray that in into the top pipe. I'm not a plumber btw.
1:15 - is it ok to give the heat exchanger air vent a firm turn to open? mine only turns past the locking nib and doesn't want push up without some force
Got one to do tomorrow morning.. Going to give this a try first.. Also got a cdi in the afternoon but I'll have to pump the cleaner back up the drain off for that..
Will1 Will1 Seemed to work fine. Boiler was shutting off after around 3 mins then blew off, Did this for 30mins then drained and filled etc was able to then run the hw with no issues. Warned the customer tho that the whole system probably would need flushing and a filter fitting to prevent it happening again. Boilers 9 years old .
@@mahvish102 Sorry no I've only ever done this on si or jnr's . Don't even know how we'd try this on a CDI thinking about it as there's no way of getting in . Sorry bud.
I tried this today but it didn't suck any fluid up at all. I wrongly concluded that the hex was blocked so I took it out and put a jet wash in it. Nothing came out but clear water. Then I filled it with scale breaker {very strong acid} a little dirt came out. Left me baffled. Plate was descaled previously but didn't cure the cutting in and out of th e burner on DHW
Brilliant video, I am going to try this soon but does anyone know what the temperature reading is coming from. Any help would be greatly appreciated, update sorry I just checked the comment and found where to check temp . silly me
I tried to do something similar recently - but without removing the cover. I closed all the rads except the one nearest to the boiler, which I drained enough to put in a litre of X400. Ran the heating for a while, then a bit of HW for a while. My thinking is that I was using the cleaner at something like ten times the usual strength.... The system had already been flushed and inhibited - but it seems there was still some blockage of the primary circuit of the plate to plate HEX. This visibly seemed to clear after about ten minutes, and the heat cell was running noticeably cooler. I previously had descaled the secondary of the plate hex, by connecting a little submersible pump underneath the boiler, and running vinegar around the secondary for about 4 hours. All seems to be back to 100% normal operation. If anyone wants to follow my method - please be aware that, until recently, I was a fully qualified and government licenced......... Driving Instructor! (not a plumber or heating tech!)
Firstly, thanks excellent videos 👍 Hi, I have a greenstar 30i Worcester boiler problem. I don’t what it is!! Every time I ran my hot water taps and then stop the hot water tap, The boiler make 4/5 nocking sound after the fan stops running ? Would you please tell me what possibly making this mocking noise?
yes but every time i opened the top valve water came out even when the drain was opened and after releasing pressure i even allowed it to drain through the vent till it stopped then tried again to no avail, its obviously operator error.
To save water and gas, you can power the pump using a mickey mouse laptop cable plugged into a socket instead of the system connection. Just run the hot tap for a minute to get the CH water to temperature, turn off the tap and let the pump run. Just make sure the diverter valve is circulating the water in the DHW demand position. Run the tap every so often to keep the system water hot.
Am i the only person can see this isn't gonna sort the problem of bad heat transfer to the DHW. this DOESNT clean the scaled plates in the Secondary HE. This will clear the sludge in the primary and the wrong side of the Secondary. Limescale in the Secondary is the cause of this problem, but this is in the cold water plates,. you may as well just put Sentinel X800 and run the system through one rad and turn the hot tap on a few times. maybe I've not understood the initial fault, but in a hard water area, like here in london, its the cold water depositing scale as it heats up, causes the fault
I live in a hard water area as well. I normally work on the basis that if the flow out of the taps has reduced, then it’s probably scale on the DHW side. Especially if the water temp increases when you slow the tap down. If it’s a blocked primary due to sludge then the flow out of the taps obviously isn’t reduced but the boiler overheats on DHW. I’ve had good success descaling the DHW side using the fernox crystal descaler you mix up from a tub. I see the power shot fix as a temporary thing as I’ve had plates reblock quickly after using one shot where the customer hasn’t taken the advice to have the system cleaned. Getting that water set out of an Si/Junior can be a pig so I guess this is a quicker short term fix.
@@Lutonman2010 i did one the other day after I wrote this first comment. not as easy as a Vaillant (nothing is on poxy Worcesters !) but only had to move the hot water pipe and drop the secondary out of the back. used one-shot to clean it. ONLY the DHW side was blocked, even though not getting regular servicing. the thing this lad is doing in this video would never sort that issue. you might as well just pour X800 in the towel rad and circulate it for a day, that would clean the primary and the system.
If it’s limescale in the plate then this won’t solve the issue, it will need a new plate. But if it’s blocked of sludge then this method will work & clean the plate to stop it overheating.
I hate to be that person but... I’ve tried this on 4 different boilers and it’s never been successful. On each one I’ve always had to change the plate heat exchanger in the end. I’d be curious to see videos of other engineers doing this successfully.
this video is nonsense, you need to take the secondary off, clean it with one shot. the scale DOES not come in contact with the cleaner, geoffry defo does need training
I've done this loads and I'd say it works about 80% of the times, when it works it's saving time and money, when it doesn't it's painful. Wondering if it makes any difference what position the DV is in when syphoning the chems 🤔
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2nd time I've done this and it works a treat. So easy to do and the muck that comes out is just great. No problem with hot water once this is done. Thanks again.
Brilliant video. Tried this today and it worked a treat. Thanks for uploading.
Amazing, did the job for me too! My hot water was cutting out after a minute or two after I had drained and refilled the system. Cleaning it out has got it back to running perfectly. Thanks.
UPDATE: I had to do this again one week later as the problem started again, it has however fixed it so fingers crossed it will stay fixed!
I had a Worcester overheating on the hot water just like this. Flow from the Hex was rising to 103 degrees after one minute every time the hot tap was run.
I removed the plate heat exchanger and cleaned with sulphuric acid whilst heating with a blow lamp. The customer rang a week later to say she still had the same problem.
I tried the method in the video and the boiler is now fine, the flow pipe from the Hex at a constant 73 degrees whilst the hot tap is run!!
Top video thanks
Sorry,where did you get that nanometer from?
Fantastic video done this yesterday only flushed for ten minutes and It worked a treat the black gunk that cam out, now the water is very hot, I will do this every year to keep the system clean, thanks for the video would have cost a fortune to get a engineer out. 👍
Clever man. I like this way. Keep the videos coming. Very helpful. Thankyou
Hot water tuning off after a few minutes, tried this! Sorted, thank you!!
Just used this method this morning on a breakdown. Up and running again a treat.
Really good video mate, keep them coming 10/10
Excellent Geoffrey your a legend
Cheers Geoffrey, great tutorial :-)
Worth a try -git to change em plate heat exchanger -good video👍
I did this the other night on a call out works a treat 👍
Top stuff, very very good videos
Top video mate!
Great stuff 👍 this worked for me today. Any chance of some multimeter fault finding videos 👍
Where are you taking the temperature reading from?
Second time I’ve done this - works great - but 2nd time a few things to note.
I ran hot water for 20mins as video no problems - but continued demand of hot water to shower - which started to make boiler flutter like usual. I think over 25mins the heat cell may get too hot with the flush inside. The boiler struggled to ignite (I knew burner/electrodes / fan fine) I removed cleaner by opening the valve near to the pump (as per the video but flow valve still closed) the water was thickish black water/ sludge that had loosened. I kept the flow valve closed but repeated pressurising the system & discharging via valve next to pump - probably 6 times until the water was clear. The boiler was then firing / working great.
I’m tempted to repeat the flushing method again but will see how system performs over the next few days as I’ll be flushing central heating system / radiators.
Prior to flushing it’s worth checking & pressurising the expansion vessel - I hadn’t checked for about 2 years and the pressures varied daily depending on selection of floor zones or radiators chosen (they’re all controlled on a manifold)
Thx to Geoffrey for uploading this vid.
Boiler 15yrs old & still great on 30yr old radiators for a flat comprising 5 radiators & underfloor heating to 4 rooms. All pipework in plastic / system generally drained & flushed through with mains water annually - inhibitor not usually used & no magnatec installed.
Thanks for the video. I have same issue and getting code U9 on worcester Greensted boiler. There is also an aerosol version of this cleaner. Can that be used instead on syphon method? That way I could just spray that in into the top pipe.
I'm not a plumber btw.
Keep videos coming please
Thanks for the great video. Just one question: what did you attach your temperature probe to?
Thanks have this problem thought I would have to chaige the heat exchainger this really helps thanks
where did you clamp to pls for the temp. using Kain clamps
At the bigging it said switch off water. Do you release this when firing boiler to clean or keep it closed with hot water running.
1:15 - is it ok to give the heat exchanger air vent a firm turn to open? mine only turns past the locking nib and doesn't want push up without some force
Done it before by completely draining pumping fluid though vent , works a treat
Does the white square cap top up heat exchanger, about 2mins in vid?
Got one to do tomorrow morning.. Going to give this a try first..
Also got a cdi in the afternoon but I'll have to pump the cleaner back up the drain off for that..
Bogeybean
How did you get on? Can't see it working on a badly blocked plate?
Will1 Will1
Seemed to work fine. Boiler was shutting off after around 3 mins then blew off, Did this for 30mins then drained and filled etc was able to then run the hw with no issues. Warned the customer tho that the whole system probably would need flushing and a filter fitting to prevent it happening again. Boilers 9 years old .
Bogeybean
Did you manage to do this technique on the CDI, how do you pump up the cleaner through the drain off?
@@mahvish102 Sorry no I've only ever done this on si or jnr's . Don't even know how we'd try this on a CDI thinking about it as there's no way of getting in .
Sorry bud.
Hi,
Can this be done on a greenstar 35CDI. I cant find the the silicone tube for the air vent on the heat exchanger
Wahoo weldone
I love you!
Very helpful video, BUT who is the excellent music by, Please.
Brilliant video. Got one overheating so will try this first.
One thing though, wouldn't X400 be a bit better?
You're thinking of x800. More Powerful for short duration than the x400.
I tried this today but it didn't suck any fluid up at all. I wrongly concluded that the hex was blocked so I took it out and put a jet wash in it. Nothing came out but clear water. Then I filled it with scale breaker {very strong acid} a little dirt came out. Left me baffled. Plate was descaled previously but didn't cure the cutting in and out of th e burner on DHW
Is it just flow you turn off??
Do you turn off the flow and return or just the flow? Thanks
Can you put cleaner in the auto air vent?
Brilliant video, I am going to try this soon but does anyone know what the temperature reading is coming from. Any help would be greatly appreciated, update sorry I just checked the comment and found where to check temp . silly me
Genius
Do you close flow and return to siphon f3 into..and do you open hot water to fire boiler
close flow and return when siphon cleaner and just open return when filling boiler level return open run hot water
Can you do something similar with the cdi?
temp is taken from were the overheat stat is on top of heat cell greenstat
Geoffrey Needs training .. Great video.. Do you shut off both flow and return boiler isolation valves?
What thermometer are you using?
Can this be done with a Main Eco H23 Combi boiler?
I tried to do something similar recently - but without removing the cover. I closed all the rads except the one nearest to the boiler, which I drained enough to put in a litre of X400. Ran the heating for a while, then a bit of HW for a while. My thinking is that I was using the cleaner at something like ten times the usual strength.... The system had already been flushed and inhibited - but it seems there was still some blockage of the primary circuit of the plate to plate HEX. This visibly seemed to clear after about ten minutes, and the heat cell was running noticeably cooler. I previously had descaled the secondary of the plate hex, by connecting a little submersible pump underneath the boiler, and running vinegar around the secondary for about 4 hours. All seems to be back to 100% normal operation. If anyone wants to follow my method - please be aware that, until recently, I was a fully qualified and government licenced......... Driving Instructor! (not a plumber or heating tech!)
Where did u put the testing equipment onto to check the temperature rise?
By the overheat stat on the top of the cell.
Why do you not shut the return valve?
This is good, saves you pulling that plate2plate out. 👍
Do you have the boiler on when runnin tap as im finding just overheating
yes you will need to run tap
What if you du it on a system boiler?
When would I need to do this? Cheers
You cant re press without opening the flow again.
Is it ok for a novice to do ? Being a gas boiler ? Or techs only ??
Definitely only if you're gas safe registered, it's illegal otherwise and you'll probably fuck it up
Firstly, thanks excellent videos 👍
Hi, I have a greenstar 30i Worcester boiler problem. I don’t what it is!! Every time I ran my hot water taps and then stop the hot water tap,
The boiler make 4/5 nocking sound after the fan stops running ? Would you please tell me what possibly making this mocking noise?
Open flow pipe where is the flow pipe? Or is the same as draining pipe
You can’t repressurise the boiler with out opening a central heating valve.
Didn't work for me released the pressure but rather than pull the fluid in it pushed water out
Did you isolate the flow pipe first?
yes but every time i opened the top valve water came out even when the drain was opened and after releasing pressure i even allowed it to drain through the vent till it stopped then tried again to no avail, its obviously operator error.
that heat cell has is ribbed quite bad. they've been running it on dry fire
because worcesters are shit and have no pressure sensor to tell boiler not to fire when theres not enough water in it...
To save water and gas, you can power the pump using a mickey mouse laptop cable plugged into a socket instead of the system connection. Just run the hot tap for a minute to get the CH water to temperature, turn off the tap and let the pump run. Just make sure the diverter valve is circulating the water in the DHW demand position. Run the tap every so often to keep the system water hot.
Do you need to be qualified to carry this out?
Jolly Good yes as you're disturbing the combustion seal, you'll need to do the checks as per gas safe regs once work is complete.
The "Take pressure off" bit. How is that done so easily. Does it just turn? Can't get it ti budge.
Ignore that I've managed to turn it. Just needed man size arms. But, a little water trickled out that's all. Even when full open?
If you have pressure in the boiler the water should be coming out with some force.
Am i the only person can see this isn't gonna sort the problem of bad heat transfer to the DHW. this DOESNT clean the scaled plates in the Secondary HE. This will clear the sludge in the primary and the wrong side of the Secondary. Limescale in the Secondary is the cause of this problem, but this is in the cold water plates,. you may as well just put Sentinel X800 and run the system through one rad and turn the hot tap on a few times.
maybe I've not understood the initial fault, but in a hard water area, like here in london, its the cold water depositing scale as it heats up, causes the fault
I live in a hard water area as well. I normally work on the basis that if the flow out of the taps has reduced, then it’s probably scale on the DHW side. Especially if the water temp increases when you slow the tap down. If it’s a blocked primary due to sludge then the flow out of the taps obviously isn’t reduced but the boiler overheats on DHW. I’ve had good success descaling the DHW side using the fernox crystal descaler you mix up from a tub. I see the power shot fix as a temporary thing as I’ve had plates reblock quickly after using one shot where the customer hasn’t taken the advice to have the system cleaned. Getting that water set out of an Si/Junior can be a pig so I guess this is a quicker short term fix.
@@Lutonman2010 i did one the other day after I wrote this first comment. not as easy as a Vaillant (nothing is on poxy Worcesters !) but only had to move the hot water pipe and drop the secondary out of the back. used one-shot to clean it. ONLY the DHW side was blocked, even though not getting regular servicing. the thing this lad is doing in this video would never sort that issue. you might as well just pour X800 in the towel rad and circulate it for a day, that would clean the primary and the system.
If it’s limescale in the plate then this won’t solve the issue, it will need a new plate. But if it’s blocked of sludge then this method will work & clean the plate to stop it overheating.
I hate to be that person but...
I’ve tried this on 4 different boilers and it’s never been successful. On each one I’ve always had to change the plate heat exchanger in the end.
I’d be curious to see videos of other engineers doing this successfully.
this video is nonsense, you need to take the secondary off, clean it with one shot. the scale DOES not come in contact with the cleaner, geoffry defo does need training
I've done this loads and I'd say it works about 80% of the times, when it works it's saving time and money, when it doesn't it's painful. Wondering if it makes any difference what position the DV is in when syphoning the chems 🤔
My boiler became worse after doing this