Muchas gracias por el vídeo me parece muy útil. Te propongo que pongas subtítulos en español para los españoles y los hermanos que hablan nuestro idioma un saludo desde 🇪🇦
Taking a risk not replacing the washer on the condensate trap, they always leak. You need to highlight better in the video that this service is only done in fan pressure reading is wrong
HI Geoffrey excellent video. I do not fix boilers but your workmanship is a A+. I was going to ask one question my 28i is showing a blue light flashing. The pressure and condense pipe is ok. A plumber said replace it by only looking at what's app. What would you do? I am not going to do work the myself but maybe getting someone else another heat engineer
I will call Worcester Bosch for a fixed fee repair then you can be guaranteed the job is going to be done to a high standard and that job will be done on the day
great video! quick question, if you had a low negative fan pressure could that indicate a weak fan rather then the heat exchanger needing cleaning. If so how could you determine which one it is. thanks
In the manufacturers instructions there is a minus fan pressure table that measurement the resistance inside the heat exchanger so firstly I would clean the heat exchanger and then check the negative and pressure there was a problem with the greenstar Junior si in about 2014 where are the fan would not go to high-speed it wasn’t the fan it was the PCB that needed to be reset or up graded there is a technique where you can just test the fan i’ll put it in the notes to make a video
Hi, thank you for the video. I have comfort condense version. My degree light keepsflashing all the time. (It display the degree, it displays nothing). Is there something wrong?
Is it true running hot tap whilst service mode on allows excess heat to escape to prevent overheat during tests? Only worcester i think though,may be wrong
I know this is a rather stupid point of clarity but when draining down the boiler I assume that you isolated the flow & return - just want to be sure - thanks great video
When my boiler was service the engineer basically took off the cover , without removing ANYTHING inside pulled and moved some wires and pipes to vacuum inside, did a co ratio test, did a let by at the meter, looked at the terminal and put the cover back on and was done in about 10 minutes !! Now I know ....
@@fastlane2914 yes that’s right. I’ve got a 28i junior and the guy who services mine used to work for Worcester Bosch you only need to clean the heat exchanger if the fan pressure is below a certain level. Says it in the service/installation manual also. Mines 13 years old and only had problems with the expansion vessel needing replacing
Yes I've never had all this I'm sure. They in and out in no time. Boiler either works or doesn't . at the moment it's more doesn't but it's 23 yrs old.
You forgot to pour the heatexchanger with water after brushing it to get the dirt out and also forgot to re-charge the expansion vessel to .75 bar… those you forgot were very important bits as well… goodluck…
Operating with this brush is awkward, and therefore nobody on TH-cam is willing to show properly the process of cleaning a really dirty heat exchanger of that type, and not an almost new one as here. Instead it is always as sketchy and superficial as in this video.
Gas valves can drift off spec. Some manufacturers now install non adjustable gas valves and give wider tolerance figures instead. Worcester Bosch have adjustable gas valves but have increased the +/- tolerances considerably over the years.
I was trained too take a flue reading with case on even on theses new boilers? As this would give slightly wrong reading? I'm going to do it your way from now on,cheers
A college of mine got caught out with taking readings with the case off. The readings were fine, but with the case on the air intake was mixing with flue gasses as a seal had gone. The readings were shocking so just a heads up :)
analyser probe above heat exchanger to test that red burner is not perished with casing off. with case off High and low reading and adjust to MIs if required. 9.8% High and 9.2% low. refer to data badge as these figure differ from boiler to boiler. With case on test flue integrity. CO2 should be Zero or what MIs state and 02 at least 20.60. check fan pressure.
The flue integrity test should have been done before combustion tests as adjustments to the gas valve if a flue seal is leaking means you have wasted your time and not worked to the standard required. Your flue integrity test would then mean you would have to remove the flue and probably replace the seal/s, then carry out high and low combustion testing all over again, I am amazed you do this incorrectly but more to the point, the reading shows 3ppm CO, so it did fail the test and yet you carried on when the boiler was classed as 'at risk' . Unacceptable practice, at least make it clear that you would be notifying the customer its at risk and needs further work although that will not get you around adjustment of the gas valve when you should not be adjusting it at all until the CO fault is rectified and that's why you do flue integrity before removing the boiler case.
Its probably residual CO, in the sensor, so he should have flushed the FGA for longer in fresh air and come back to it when the FGA had settled and recalibrated. Mine is fresh back from annual calibration and a new CO sensor, but it had a hard time the other day on CO and it took quite some time to recover. If in doubt use the dedicated CO detector (if applicable) on your FGA as a cross check, then re-do the whole test. Yes, the flue might indeed be faulty after all that....I know, but at least you have been thorough.
How to service a Worcester boiler. 1: Do a fan pressure test.
2: Pray it’s ok
hahahahahaha 100%
@@FLYNN.. 😂😂
Perfect !!!! Thank you very much for your videos, they are so good and helps a lot especially for new qualified gas engineers like me.
Great Video, thanks for sharing. Keep them coming fella, cheers👍
Super very helpful video keep it up👍
Would love to see more videos like this for other boiler brands like ideal, Vaillant, Baxi, viessmann, glow worm ???
Very useful video thanks. Don’t think I’ll be cleaning inside combustion chamber....
Great vid. Needed this in my 1st service. Thank you 😊
Turn the power back stand back and watch the fan blow
this happen to me when replacing prv and expansion vessel this week
@@Suman777 I never turn the power off ever ever ever ,I learnt the the hard way 👍
😂😂😂
I don’t know why people love Worcester shit boilers to work on. That fan blows all the time
Top quality as always
Excellent video.
Excellent 👏👏👏👏
👍👌
Good job great vid 👍🏽
Have you serviced one with flue side on. Nearly covering the hatch
Great vids Geoffrey sir...
Any chance of uploading a Worcester Compact model service???
Thanks again for sharing.
Ace service Geoffrey!
Muchas gracias por el vídeo me parece muy útil. Te propongo que pongas subtítulos en español para los españoles y los hermanos que hablan nuestro idioma un saludo desde 🇪🇦
I'll do a cpa first on combustion and air intake first before doing anything from now on.
Excellent video very informative great for newbies like me who com into the industry recently ,plz upload more videos👍
there is a video for that
Taking a risk not replacing the washer on the condensate trap, they always leak. You need to highlight better in the video that this service is only done in fan pressure reading is wrong
Bring back floorstanding Potterton Kingfishers!! Happy days!
HI Geoffrey excellent video. I do not fix boilers but your workmanship is a A+. I was going to ask one question my 28i is showing a blue light flashing. The pressure and condense pipe is ok. A plumber said replace it by only looking at what's app. What would you do? I am not going to do work the myself but maybe getting someone else another heat engineer
I will call Worcester Bosch for a fixed fee repair then you can be guaranteed the job is going to be done to a high standard and that job will be done on the day
great video! quick question, if you had a low negative fan pressure could that indicate a weak fan rather then the heat exchanger needing cleaning. If so how could you determine which one it is. thanks
In the manufacturers instructions there is a minus fan pressure table that measurement the resistance inside the heat exchanger so firstly I would clean the heat exchanger and then check the negative and pressure there was a problem with the greenstar Junior si in about 2014 where are the fan would not go to high-speed it wasn’t the fan it was the PCB that needed to be reset or up graded there is a technique where you can just test the fan i’ll put it in the notes to make a video
@@geoffreyneedstraining5856 great! look forward to that
@@geoffreyneedstraining5856 have you managed to comprise a video of adjusting the set parameters on the PCB yet Geoffrey? 🤞. Great stuff pal 👍🏻
Most times you wont get the baffels out when it fails the fan test so its a new heat cell
If only the fan went back in as easy as that every time 😂
Worchester Bosch best days are behind flinging out crap now
didn't check the fan bearing seal. Rule no. 1 don't turn off the boiler the fan will never run again.
Hi
I seem to always struggle to remove the electrodes on greenstar i .
Any tips for this ?
you got a slight mix going on there in that air section 3ppm & 20.7%. Should it not be 20.9% and 0ppm on air section??? 9:01
Are you giving training? I mean on site or training centre
not yet
Hi, thank you for the video. I have comfort condense version. My degree light keepsflashing all the time. (It display the degree, it displays nothing). Is there something wrong?
Is it true running hot tap whilst service mode on allows excess heat to escape to prevent overheat during tests? Only worcester i think though,may be wrong
Yes it is the best is to remove the Diverter valve completely
I know this is a rather stupid point of clarity but when draining down the boiler I assume that you isolated the flow & return - just want to be sure - thanks great video
Don't you risk creating leaks disturbing more valves doing that? Just drain it without isolating anything, you'll only get half a bucket come out
When my boiler was service the engineer basically took off the cover , without removing ANYTHING inside pulled and moved some wires and pipes to vacuum inside, did a co ratio test, did a let by at the meter, looked at the terminal and put the cover back on and was done in about 10 minutes !! Now I know ....
It doesn't always need a strip down service, its only if it fails the fan pressure test. What your engineer done was probably fine
@@cp-cz6ol thanks good to know
@@fastlane2914 yes that’s right. I’ve got a 28i junior and the guy who services mine used to work for Worcester Bosch you only need to clean the heat exchanger if the fan pressure is below a certain level. Says it in the service/installation manual also. Mines 13 years old and only had problems with the expansion vessel needing replacing
@@danielross7221 thanks mate I understand it a lot more since my original comment, but always welcome informative replies and feedback
@@fastlane2914 haha. Didn’t Even notice your original comment was 2 years old 🤦♂️😂
Cleaning the electrodes is fatal....
I doubt my Worcester boiler would be serviced to these high standards.
Yes I've never had all this I'm sure. They in and out in no time. Boiler either works or doesn't . at the moment it's more doesn't but it's 23 yrs old.
That could be because you only had what’s called an annual check and not a service.. unless you specifically asked for a service..
questo è lo standard che avviene durante la manutenzione, altrimenti non è una manutenzione ma un semplice controllo, sono due operazioni diverse
You forgot to pour the heatexchanger with water after brushing it to get the dirt out and also forgot to re-charge the expansion vessel to .75 bar… those you forgot were very important bits as well… goodluck…
Operating with this brush is awkward, and therefore nobody on TH-cam is willing to show properly the process of cleaning a really dirty heat exchanger of that type, and not an almost new one as here. Instead it is always as sketchy and superficial as in this video.
I don't understand when you touch the gas valve, that valve is set up when it leaves factory.
Gas valves can drift off spec. Some manufacturers now install non adjustable gas valves and give wider tolerance figures instead. Worcester Bosch have adjustable gas valves but have increased the +/- tolerances considerably over the years.
Thanks
I was trained too take a flue reading with case on even on theses new boilers? As this would give slightly wrong reading? I'm going to do it your way from now on,cheers
You need to do both, obviously you can't adjust the high and low with the case on.
He should of done one at the end with case on to confirm all combustion seals inside boiler are not leaking
A college of mine got caught out with taking readings with the case off. The readings were fine, but with the case on the air intake was mixing with flue gasses as a seal had gone. The readings were shocking so just a heads up :)
your not confirming any of the seals are adequette by doing it with case off . As just sucking in clean air from the room .
analyser probe above heat exchanger to test that red burner is not perished with casing off.
with case off High and low reading and adjust to MIs if required. 9.8% High and 9.2% low. refer to data badge as these figure differ from boiler to boiler.
With case on test flue integrity. CO2 should be Zero or what MIs state and 02 at least 20.60.
check fan pressure.
The flue integrity test should have been done before combustion tests as adjustments to the gas valve if a flue seal is leaking means you have wasted your time and not worked to the standard required. Your flue integrity test would then mean you would have to remove the flue and probably replace the seal/s, then carry out high and low combustion testing all over again, I am amazed you do this incorrectly but more to the point, the reading shows 3ppm CO, so it did fail the test and yet you carried on when the boiler was classed as 'at risk' . Unacceptable practice, at least make it clear that you would be notifying the customer its at risk and needs further work although that will not get you around adjustment of the gas valve when you should not be adjusting it at all until the CO fault is rectified and that's why you do flue integrity before removing the boiler case.
You had 3ppm at the air intake dude. Must be 0. Flue needs to be checked/replaced.
Its probably residual CO, in the sensor, so he should have flushed the FGA for longer in fresh air and come back to it when the FGA had settled and recalibrated. Mine is fresh back from annual calibration and a new CO sensor, but it had a hard time the other day on CO and it took quite some time to recover. If in doubt use the dedicated CO detector (if applicable) on your FGA as a cross check, then re-do the whole test. Yes, the flue might indeed be faulty after all that....I know, but at least you have been thorough.
0 - 10 ppm actually.
Shit and over complicated, and flashing light counting?? Pure monopolists..never recommend it