Just changed mine out, successfully. Thank you for the video. It was very helpful. If anyone cares, the torque value for the #1 timing cover bolts is 80 inch lbs. And I was able to do it without removing the lower left bolt on the timing cover. It's the hardest one to get out and back on. But if you are careful, it doesn't need to be removed. Thanks again, great video!
Thank you for this bit of info I love technology and the world of sharing good information. Always Gatta read the comments. Great video. I'm about to do this one for a friend. 💪🏽
Thank you, 4DIYers! This was exactly what I needed. A real public service you are doing! ...Funny, I copied down the instructions as your video went along, and then I saw that you had written it out. Well, now I know the procedure real well before I get started!
Thank God! Perfect video, nice and concise. I need to do this for my 1996 Tacoma. She keeps stalling after start up and we haven’t found the culprit yet.
@@4DIYers Cold starts stall out a few seconds after. Once idling it normally stalls after shifting in gear. Our next bet is the torque converter…. Problem is the scanners can’t pick up any codes so hard to narrow it down.
This is excellent!! My one simple issue - removing that electrical connector on the lowered timing belt cover. It’s usually the simple things like this that get me. I end up breaking or snapping some other part while getting to the part I’m repairing.
I am never ever going to do this but never the less, I find these videos quite interesting I like how you keep them very straight forward and to the point.
Thank you so much for this video. The instructions are spot on; and only for me to find the wiring had been split. So using your instructions, I removed the plug, soldered the wiring, & all is well!
Couldn't get new washers in my small town. The mechanic at the auto parts store said look at the washers closely, if they are just slightly scarred sand them gently with high grit paper, no less than 400. He almost always reuses them. He said they usually fail to seal because someone fails to clean the grit from all the surfaces. Also, be careful taking off the plastic top it's dark down there and with poor eyesight it's difficult to see that a narrow screwdriver will release the plastic prong that fits down into the sensor. You don't want to break that plastic apart.
@@4DIYers hey also you can check the sensor by grounding it shove a nail in the clip and touch it to the frame if the gauge doesnt go up you have a bad gauge if it does its the sensor
Not understanding the fuel rail crush washer spiel. If you are loosening both sides of the fuel rail and both banjo bolts, then would you not need to remove and replace the washers for each bolt? Can someone please reply? Thanks And are those washers 14mm?
Very awesome video. I have a 99 and it's idling high with code po505. I cleaned the IAC but only helped a little. Think new coolant temp sensor will fix?
Hey, it's been about a year, but did you ever try this out? I'm getting high idle and the occasional code, and have tried several other things, but not this coolant temp sensor.
@@seshrecords8861 Yes, it did. I ended up having to pay like $575 for one from my local dealer after the one I ordered never shipped (I got a refund). Once I had it bolted up, it started up and has been running great ever since.
I just have a kit of aluminum crush washers with various sizes. The dealer may tell you the size, if you know the size of the banjo bolt you can go off that, or if you have access to another vehicle, just take the washer into an auto parts or hydraulic supplier store.
@@justmakeit8688 Is that the same size for the sensor? I can't seem to find a straight answer. I bought the OEM sensor and it didn't come with a crush washer.
I’m having a hard time loosing the right banjo bolt on the fuel rail. The left loosened with major problems. Tried soaking the right bolt with some WD40, but I’m stripping the head and it feels like I’m going to snap my wrench. Any advice?
@@4DIYers i fix it. it was bad coolent tempreture sensor made in china . since i replace it with oem my rpm 700 now insted of 1100 which was always like that even when the car hot
My temperature gauge reads a little high on a cold start but then drops to about center after warming up a bit. Could doing this fix my problem? I recently purchased a Tacoma and just discovered that there is only water in my cooling system. I'm planning on doing a flush as well as changing the coolant temp sensor and the thermostat.
A shot at your question, there's a sensor on the back top driver side of the engine kind of at the very back corner behind the driver valve cover and intake area. It's a straight up small circular single wire sensor. This is the actual sensor that relates to the dash board gauge, the etc in this video is not in control of the same function but rather the running condition and computer communication. Hope this helps.
I just bought a 96 s10 with a 2.2 liter v4. My temperature gauge didn't work at all so I replaced the engine coolant sensor. Now with the new sensor after the engine runs for about a minute and a half the gauge goes past redline even though the engine itself is cold. What else should I do? Did I purchase a faulty engine coolant sensor?
My check engine light just came on and this is the code showing up.. It took a few tries to get my truck started first thing in the morning once it started the check engine light came on.
You sure you changed the right sensor? The sensor shown in the video is for communication with the ECU/ECM. The sensor that controls the temp gauge in the dash is a single wire sensor located toward the firewall in a similar location.
I just changed the Coolant Temperature Sensor, but now my 2001 4Runner won't start. I unplugged the EFI fuse for 30 minutes to reset the fuel delivery and still nothing. Any help is appreciated.
There's most likely still air in the fuel system, so you'll have to turn over the engine a little longer than normal to bleed that air. Just be careful, not to overheat the starter motor.
89422-35010 the OEM part was not expensive on Ebay ($10) and comes with a new washer. The reviews for aftermarket showed failure sometimes occurs after a few months.
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This is the only clear and concise video I could find for the coolant sensor on a 3.4. Thank you. Torquing it down now.
Thank you! I just released the sensor replacement for the temp gauge on Friday if you're in need of that repair too :)
Just changed mine out, successfully. Thank you for the video. It was very helpful. If anyone cares, the torque value for the #1 timing cover bolts is 80 inch lbs. And I was able to do it without removing the lower left bolt on the timing cover. It's the hardest one to get out and back on. But if you are careful, it doesn't need to be removed. Thanks again, great video!
Awesome to hear and thank you for the tips too!
Thank you for this bit of info I love technology and the world of sharing good information. Always Gatta read the comments. Great video. I'm about to do this one for a friend. 💪🏽
Thank you, 4DIYers! This was exactly what I needed. A real public service you are doing! ...Funny, I copied down the instructions as your video went along, and then I saw that you had written it out. Well, now I know the procedure real well before I get started!
Thank you so much for the kind words and feedback. Yep, all my videos have the process written out as a quick guide too.
😂
@@4DIYersthis is so rad. Thank you 👍
Thank God! Perfect video, nice and concise. I need to do this for my 1996 Tacoma. She keeps stalling after start up and we haven’t found the culprit yet.
Happy to help! Make sure to test the components first before replacing so you’re not wasting money. How long does it stay running for?
@@4DIYers Cold starts stall out a few seconds after. Once idling it normally stalls after shifting in gear. Our next bet is the torque converter…. Problem is the scanners can’t pick up any codes so hard to narrow it down.
This is excellent!! My one simple issue - removing that electrical connector on the lowered timing belt cover. It’s usually the simple things like this that get me. I end up breaking or snapping some other part while getting to the part I’m repairing.
You have my greatest respect I’ve been doing mechanic for 47 years you explain it well thank you keep up the good work 💪
Awesome! Thank you so much!
I am never ever going to do this but never the less, I find these videos quite interesting
I like how you keep them very straight forward and to the point.
Thank you, I really appreciate the feedback and support :)
Just what I needed to know. Thank you for your time and excellent presentation.
Very helpfull tutorial.Brief,detailed and to the point.Much appreciated!
Thank you so much for the feedback!
Thank you so much for this video. The instructions are spot on; and only for me to find the wiring had been split. So using your instructions, I removed the plug, soldered the wiring, & all is well!
Because if the clean and straight to the point videos you make I am new subscriber
Thank you so much, I appreciate the feedback and support!
Couldn't get new washers in my small town. The mechanic at the auto parts store said look at the washers closely, if they are just slightly scarred sand them gently with high grit paper, no less than 400. He almost always reuses them. He said they usually fail to seal because someone fails to clean the grit from all the surfaces. Also, be careful taking off the plastic top it's dark down there and with poor eyesight it's difficult to see that a narrow screwdriver will release the plastic prong that fits down into the sensor. You don't want to break that plastic apart.
Great tips, thank you for sharing!
Idk why youtube didnt recomend both the heat gauge sensor and this but what ever thanks for the help
You’re welcome! Yeah it’s weird, their new system makes it so hard to search for videos.
@@4DIYers hey also you can check the sensor by grounding it shove a nail in the clip and touch it to the frame if the gauge doesnt go up you have a bad gauge if it does its the sensor
Not understanding the fuel rail crush washer spiel. If you are loosening both sides of the fuel rail and both banjo bolts, then would you not need to remove and replace the washers for each bolt? Can someone please reply? Thanks And are those washers 14mm?
Sir is it possible you cat tell me the size of said crush washers? Love this channel! Thank you in advance.
Hello, great video. Thank you so much for posting this. Did you have to drain some of the coolant to replace the sensor?
Thank you so much! No coolant was required to be drained.
Where did you buy the coolant temperature sensor from and what brand +/ part number is it?
Très bon vidéo et bien expliqué. Merci beaucoup. 👍
Good stuff 👏🏾
Thank you!
What size are those crush washers?
Great video. Looks like i only need to replace the wire on mine as its frayed so much so there is bare wire and throwing a code.
Thank you!
Great Video Thank You , Please Keep Made More Video
Thank you and I will be!
Very awesome video. I have a 99 and it's idling high with code po505. I cleaned the IAC but only helped a little. Think new coolant temp sensor will fix?
Hey, it's been about a year, but did you ever try this out? I'm getting high idle and the occasional code, and have tried several other things, but not this coolant temp sensor.
@@toastrecon hey! No I tried a bunch of different things and no luck. Eventually I had to sell it and get rid of the stress haha
@@Gitrdone97 dang. Lol. I just ordered an entire throttle body assembly from Toyota. Almost $400. Fingers crossed that it cures the high idle!
@@toastrecon did it cure the problem?
@@seshrecords8861 Yes, it did. I ended up having to pay like $575 for one from my local dealer after the one I ordered never shipped (I got a refund). Once I had it bolted up, it started up and has been running great ever since.
What size or part number for the crush washers in the fuel hardline so I can buy from oreilys
Did you happen to find them? Getting ready to change me temp sensor soon.
@@billyhickson1632 no just used a superfine sandpaper sponge with water lightly sanded and used the same ones worked perfectly
thanks
this was really helpfull
You're very welcome!
Very helpful! Thanks!!!
You're welcome!
What size are the crush washers for the fuel rail banjo bolt?
Austin Gorton yeah, I need to know the size of the crush washers as well
I just have a kit of aluminum crush washers with various sizes. The dealer may tell you the size, if you know the size of the banjo bolt you can go off that, or if you have access to another vehicle, just take the washer into an auto parts or hydraulic supplier store.
We need someone to post the size. That would be a huge help. This has been a GREAT video.... except that we need to know the size of the washers.
Inside Dia 12mm outside 16mm-Toyota OEM Fuel Rail Crush Washer Part #90430-12005
@@justmakeit8688 Is that the same size for the sensor? I can't seem to find a straight answer. I bought the OEM sensor and it didn't come with a crush washer.
Easy to follow
Thank you!
Can you use a swivel wrench to remove the sensor instead of removing the fuel line
Thanks for the video
I’m having a hard time loosing the right banjo bolt on the fuel rail. The left loosened with major problems.
Tried soaking the right bolt with some WD40, but I’m stripping the head and it feels like I’m going to snap my wrench. Any advice?
Try a penetrating oil like Kroil instead. WD40 isn't a good quality penetrating oil.
@@4DIYers Thanks for the tip
No problem, happy to help!
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I can’t seem to able to remove the bolts on bank of the fuel rail!? I’ve use lubricant…is there any other tricks
Thanks man
You're welcome!
Good job brother thanks you very much
Thank you so much!
after i followed ur guide my rpm became higher than usuall . is that ok?
What is your idle rpm sitting at now? Is there potentially a broken vacuum line?
@@4DIYers i fix it. it was bad coolent tempreture sensor made in china . since i replace it with oem my rpm 700 now insted of 1100 which was always like that even when the car hot
My temperature gauge reads a little high on a cold start but then drops to about center after warming up a bit. Could doing this fix my problem? I recently purchased a Tacoma and just discovered that there is only water in my cooling system. I'm planning on doing a flush as well as changing the coolant temp sensor and the thermostat.
A shot at your question, there's a sensor on the back top driver side of the engine kind of at the very back corner behind the driver valve cover and intake area. It's a straight up small circular single wire sensor. This is the actual sensor that relates to the dash board gauge, the etc in this video is not in control of the same function but rather the running condition and computer communication. Hope this helps.
Can I splice into these wires to run an aftermarket temperature gauge?
I just bought a 96 s10 with a 2.2 liter v4. My temperature gauge didn't work at all so I replaced the engine coolant sensor. Now with the new sensor after the engine runs for about a minute and a half the gauge goes past redline even though the engine itself is cold. What else should I do? Did I purchase a faulty engine coolant sensor?
Did you find a fix? I have the same problem
My check engine light just came on and this is the code showing up.. It took a few tries to get my truck started first thing in the morning once it started the check engine light came on.
Hello,
What material are crush washers? Copper or aluminum? mm? Thank.
Aluminum
My gauge goes to red after changing sensor but the engine is not over heating. Any advice please
You sure you changed the right sensor? The sensor shown in the video is for communication with the ECU/ECM. The sensor that controls the temp gauge in the dash is a single wire sensor located toward the firewall in a similar location.
I just changed the Coolant Temperature Sensor, but now my 2001 4Runner won't start. I unplugged the EFI fuse for 30 minutes to reset the fuel delivery and still nothing. Any help is appreciated.
There's most likely still air in the fuel system, so you'll have to turn over the engine a little longer than normal to bleed that air. Just be careful, not to overheat the starter motor.
I can't even find a video on how to replace on in a 2.7L Tacoma, mine needs replacing and I want to make sure before I go and replace it.
I have 2.4 L Tacoma. Hard to find the mechanic who is willing to replace this tiny thing. Why Toyota put this behind the engine block?
What is the temperature supposed to be on these engines?
My sensor dont have any white stuff on threads.. what do i use? Or install like it is
It's just teflon tape, a plumbing supplier will have it.
Would this give off a P0115 code?
Thumbs up
Thank you, appreciate the support!
Trabajaste facil sin tener que sacar ka manga de agua
Part number for the sensor?
89422-35010 the OEM part was not expensive on Ebay ($10) and comes with a new washer. The reviews for aftermarket showed failure sometimes occurs after a few months.
I did it with a 19mm