Sorry for commenting on every single video but man this is helpfull. I have a 1936 banjo that has alot more play than it should and now I'm confident enough to take it apart. Thanks Zack!! //Martin
Zac, I want to thank you for this video! It was very educational, very well-done, and very much needed...as witnessed by some of the comments! Enjoy your weekend! Be safe!
Thank you Zak, I am getting ready to rebuild the rear end in my 40 Coupe. I have more confidence that I can do the job in my garage now. I am sure I will be watching this a few more times. Burneall
i just bought a 1948 monarch coupe. Its supposed to be super rare. The car has zero rust. It has a merc flathead with lots of speed equipment on it. stock 3 speed and brakes. Its 90 percent done with 90 percent to go. I am excited to work on it and love your videos. Keep up the good work.
"John's Projects" mentioned your channel during his Bellytank car build. Had to stop by and say Hi :) Your lacing technique seems pretty solid. In the USAF, we called it "safety wiring", but its the same thing. I got flashbacks of counting twists per inch and checking for the correct routing LOL!
Hey Zac, that preload on that pinion bearing is "15 INCH pounds" NOT 15 pounds. I set mine between 13 and 15 inch pounds. You need a inch pounds torque wrench for that operation. And when heating that banjo housing it should be hot enough so the double bearing will FALL in and bottom out in the housing. Be careful when you tighten that second jam nut, it will change the setting on the first nut. After setting the second nut and before bending the "flats" on the lock washer check your pinion preload again with the INCH pounds torque wrench. Always install a new pilot bearing too. No need to short cut anything when it's down this far.
@@muphfab Not 180ft/lbs. the bearing would lock up. 15 inch pounds equal 1and1/4 ft/lbs. There are 12 inch lbs to one ft/lbs. Best to use a inch lbs torque wrench, more accurate
Thank Chris! If you have a close to original drivetrain then there is no need for a vent, it’s when gear ratios change drastically or if you have a modem transmission is when you need a vent
Hi, great video! Great to learn from. Do you have any interest in showing the similar but for a 1950’s ford truck rear ended that only splits on one side? I have a 1953 f350 with a 5:16 dual lay rearend.
Thank You so much! I’ve been searching info on working on these. My ‘46 has been sitting since mid July due to a strange noise in the rear. My flashlight through the check plug hole shows a very ugly ring gear and a magnet found a bearing roller.
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Had a setback. I work for a school bus shop, a lot of people quit. I’ve been practically living at the shop. No time for a hobby for a long time. Good news is that the light at the end of the tunnel is not a train. With the OT I bought a bulletproofed Columbia to put on this axle and I should be able to start on it soon. I’ll most likely be rewatching this video a lot and talking to John at Columbia 2 speed!
Nice ride !!! I have an N.O.S Ansen pedal assembly that at one time was going to get installed in my 41 Ford, but I went with a different setup . If ur interested in it just reply back an we’ll set something up . I also have some other stock 41 ford items .
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Hey Zak, I just pulled my Banjo from my '35 3W. The Banjo however, is a '37. I've done this to replace the springs and upgrade to Juice brakes which I'm now in the process of. After I removed the backing plates from both sides I grabbed the axel and gave it a 'giggle' side to side. Now this being my first Banjo gig, I was surprised by the 'play' on both axels, is this normal or should the axel at the backing plate be more tight? Thanks.
@@WaxMeister what keeps it from moving in and out is the inner bearings and shims, if it moves in and out then it need to be rebuild, but if the axle moves up/down side to side it’s completely normal because the wheel bearing and hub keeps it in place
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Thanks, I was hoping that was the case - phew, I didn't want to get further into the rear end at this point. But, I'll check the lash once I get the diff off the floor and on my bench.
Thank you Thomas, you can put the vent almost anywhere on the axle tube itself, drill and tap a brass fitting with a bung for a rubber hose facing upwards
Spot on video...my banjo is very noisy, whine I suspect the ring and pinion is worn out..should these axles be quiet or any noise at all..any tips will be welcome thanks
Hard to say without hearing it myself, compared to a newer axle I would consider them noisy but the transmission is pretty noisy too, you could be hearing that
Hi Zac Awesome video. Very helpful I have a stock 29 Ford Model A pickup. I just pulled the rear end because I lost all forward and reverse gears. I thought one of the axles shafts may be broken. When i lifted the rear of the pickup the passenger side kind of spins but not much. The drivers side axle doesn't do anything. When you take the fill plug out of the banjo you can see the spider gears moving when you spin the passenger side wheel by hand. But the drivers side still does nothing. Do you think its the rear axle or maybe the clutch? (If I don't have to split the rear axle open I'd prefer not to.) The transmission seems to go into gear but doesn't make the pickup move. I've put the rear on jack stand and hand spun the engine and the drive shaft spins and spins the spider gears and the passenger axle. Still nothing from the drivers side. When I put a screw driver into the drain hole in the banjo to hold the driveshaft from spinning from the front it won't hand crank. So I believed everything from the front to the spider gears is ok. Thats why I pulled the rear end. I live in a remote area in the middle of the ocean. Not to many Model A's and no shop will touch it. So I decided to try myself. Any wisdom would be appreciated. Thank you Russ
hello Zac, in the differential of my Ford 47, I did the cardan reform) like the one in your video) with the difference that I had to do it myself, since in Argentina the change does not favor me and it is very expensive to import it from the US , it fits me well although for my taste not so neat, since I had to make it longer and place the seal holder with bearings (if it is difficult to understand I invite you to see my Facebook Leo flathead) thank you very much for sharing your videos they are fantastic, best regards from Argentina
Great video that is much needed. Would have loved to have seen the lost part. My recently purchased 1945 half ton has been sitting because there is almost no info and not sure if anyone is trustworthy who won't charge a king's ransom. FIRST time I took it across town it lost drive. The driveshaft spins but no drive. Is there a second shear pin that could cause this in addition to the input pin? If it's not a shear pin, this video gives me the confidence to do it myself! Also Zack, don't you have to use machinists blue to make sure the ring and pinion gears are meshing correctly or is lash the only adjustment? Thanks.
Thanks for watching Steve! There is no second shear pin, and on these early rear axles they are a different animal, only lash adjustment is needed and no dies needed to check mesh
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Thank you. You are providing a very valuable service. I have Vern Tardel's book on the banjo, but your video I find far more useful.
@@steves8014 thanks Steve, I have the same book, a lot of good information, it’s still nice to see it done in a video, to a lot of people it makes more since
Mate I just found you , I like your Channel I all so have a banjo diff and I would like to loos the Torque tube so Would you have the part No of the bearing housing for the Yoke and the Yoke , please that would be a grate help O and the Pinion shaft , thank you Mate , you may not notice , I'm Australia Mate
friend congratulations very explanatory video, i would like to ask you about the color of this car behind you, very beautiful, i will paint a Ford of mine, and i would like to know this car pattern hugs,
Arent you adding torque by using the wrench extension on your torque wrench? Aiming for 15, setting at 20, you probably ended up with 25. I am really enjoying your videos, recently entered the early Ford arena. Do you still have rear hub pullers for sale?
So Zac, I never had time the other day to finish my comment on rebuilding a banjo rear end, so here goes. With all due respect what you did on that rebuild as far as preload, tells you nothing about how much that bearing was preloaded. If you put 15ft. lbs. of torque on that first nut that double pinion bearing might last five minutes. What you need is a 1/4'' drive inch pound torque wrench. A 1/4'' drive socket and a six spline coupler. Take and weld the1/4'' drive socket to the six spline coupler. Slide the six spline coupler onto the splined pinion shaft and attached the inch pound torque wrench to the welded on socket. Mount the banjo in a vice with the pinion shaft looking up Now slowly turn the torque wrench as you slowly tighten the first nut and read the torque wrench dial. You're looking for 13 to 15 INCH pounds on the dial. Then install the locking "Flats" washer and the second nut. Hold the first nut with a "thin" wrench and torque down the second nut with a second "thin" wrench. Recheck your preload after torqueing the second nut. Your preload will sometimes change after torqueing the second nut. Make the necessary adjustments. Now as far as setting the preload on the Differential Carrier I shoot for eight (8 lbs ) preload on it. I start with two .009 thousands gaskets from that gasket kit you have. Place one on each axle housing/ banjo and bolt up. Now turn the pinion shaft with the same torque wrench and read the dial. You're looking for 22 to 23 inch lbs. on the dial. Depends on where you set the pinion preload. If you set the pinion at 15 inch pounds and you add 8 inch pounds on the diff. carrier than you're looking for 23inch pounds on the dial. Now, if the diff carrier is too tight you need to add gaskets/shims to the passenger side axle housing side only. You adjust Diff. Carrier preload with passenger axle housing not the drivers side axle housing Adjust with gaskets until you reach 23 inch lbs on the dial. Now the drivers side axle housing is used to set back lash. The limits are .003 to.008 thousands on a stub mount pinion and .006 to .010 thousands on a straddle mount pinion. All 1933 to 1948 Ford Banjos are straddle mount type banjos. Adjust back lash at the splined end of the pinion shaft with a dial indicator. Now here comes the trick! If you have to add gaskets/ shims the the drivers side to adjust the back lash you have to take away the same amount from the passenger side. If you don't you change the Diff. carrier preload. Also, remember this, if the back lash is too tight meaning the pinion gear is too far into the ring gear the rear end will hum and make noise. If the pinion gear is not deep enough into the ring gear you could chip a ring gear tooth. So back lash is important. Try this set up, it works for me every time If I missed something let me know
@@johngrepo9976 John, If the Banjo rearend is built right and run with a Flathead or even a Hot Flathead and driven correctly, it is a reliable and durable rearend. Now you can upgrade it by installing 28 spline slide-in axles. That will make it bullet proof for the Flathead. Checkout Hot Rod Works for the upgrade. And no, they are not posi.
I beleive red grease is for rubber applications,,I don't think it's suitable for extream high pressure or temp,,A good molly grease is ok for bearings ..
“Don’t be afraid to be extra with it.” My favorite new quote!
Haha thank you!
Great! Let me know how it goes, feel free to send me questions on Instagram
Sorry for commenting on every single video but man this is helpfull. I have a 1936 banjo that has alot more play than it should and now I'm confident enough to take it apart. Thanks Zack!! //Martin
I’ve heard that subscribing, bell clicking,
thumbing, and commenting helps the channels get moved up in YT’s algorithms and get more views.
Zac, I want to thank you for this video! It was very educational, very well-done, and very much needed...as witnessed by some of the comments! Enjoy your weekend! Be safe!
Thanks Harry I appreciate it! Have a good one!
Thank you for taking time to make the videos. It help others to understand and or fix our older model classic's.
No problem at all! Thank you for watching!
Thank you Zak,
I am getting ready to rebuild the rear end in my 40 Coupe. I have more confidence that I can do the job in my garage now. I am sure I will be watching this a few more times.
Burneall
I am glad I could help! Also buy the rebuild book from Vern Tardell “Ford 1932-48 Banjo Differential Service and Rebuild Guide”
I ordered it yesterday, thanks!
i just bought a 1948 monarch coupe. Its supposed to be super rare. The car has zero rust. It has a merc flathead with lots of speed equipment on it. stock 3 speed and brakes. Its 90 percent done with 90 percent to go. I am excited to work on it and love your videos. Keep up the good work.
Thanks! Trying to figure out how side bearing preload and backlash works on a 1940s English Ford e93a axle. This helped a lot!
"John's Projects" mentioned your channel during his Bellytank car build. Had to stop by and say Hi :) Your lacing technique seems pretty solid. In the USAF, we called it "safety wiring", but its the same thing. I got flashbacks of counting twists per inch and checking for the correct routing LOL!
Hey Zac, that preload on that pinion bearing is "15 INCH pounds" NOT 15 pounds. I set mine between 13 and 15 inch pounds. You need a inch pounds torque wrench for that operation. And when heating that banjo housing it should be hot enough so the double bearing will FALL in and bottom out in the housing. Be careful when you tighten that second jam nut, it will change the setting on the first nut. After setting the second nut and before bending the "flats" on the lock washer check your pinion preload again with the INCH pounds torque wrench. Always install a new pilot bearing too. No need to short cut anything when it's down this far.
Thanks for all the information Bill, my entire procedure came from Chilton Handbook 1947 Edition, all bearings and races were replaced on this axle,
Can you not just multiply the 15 inch pounds by 12 and use a foot pounds wrench?
So 180 ft/lbs?
@@muphfab divide by 12 converts inch pounds to foot pounds.
@@muphfab Not 180ft/lbs. the bearing would lock up. 15 inch pounds equal 1and1/4 ft/lbs. There are 12 inch lbs to one ft/lbs. Best to use a inch lbs torque wrench, more accurate
Thank God you only need to set these up every 75 years! LOL!! Great video.
Haha thanks John! Once they are set up right, they sure are reliable
really a work, from those who know, very good work Master.👏👏👏
Thank you! I appreciate it
Great video, thanks for sharing!
Thank you Mark I appreciate it!
One more thing Zac, Pinion and ring gear contact patch should be checked using the yellow contact paste. You can get that from Amazon on line.
Awesome informative video as always! Would you recommend putting a vent on all early v8 ford banjos even staying closed drive?
Thank Chris! If you have a close to original drivetrain then there is no need for a vent, it’s when gear ratios change drastically or if you have a modem transmission is when you need a vent
Hi, great video! Great to learn from. Do you have any interest in showing the similar but for a 1950’s ford truck rear ended that only splits on one side? I have a 1953 f350 with a 5:16 dual lay rearend.
Thank You so much!
I’ve been searching info on working on these.
My ‘46 has been sitting since mid July due to a strange noise in the rear.
My flashlight through the check plug hole shows a very ugly ring gear and a magnet found a bearing roller.
Ouch! Sounds like it’s time to take it apart!
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop👍🤞!
@@bodarville2510 hope it’s going well!
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop
Had a setback. I work for a school bus shop, a lot of people quit. I’ve been practically living at the shop. No time for a hobby for a long time. Good news is that the light at the end of the tunnel is not a train. With the OT I bought a bulletproofed Columbia to put on this axle and I should be able to start on it soon.
I’ll most likely be rewatching this video a lot and talking to John at Columbia 2 speed!
Nice ride !!! I have an N.O.S Ansen pedal assembly that at one time was going to get installed in my 41 Ford, but I went with a different setup . If ur interested in it just reply back an we’ll set something up . I also have some other stock 41 ford items .
Thanks for what you do. 👍😎
No problem! Thanks for watching
Great presentation
Thank you!
Nice clean work!
The only way to work! Thank you 👍🏼
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Hey Zak, I just pulled my Banjo from my '35 3W. The Banjo however, is a '37. I've done this to replace the springs and upgrade to Juice brakes which I'm now in the process of. After I removed the backing plates from both sides I grabbed the axel and gave it a 'giggle' side to side. Now this being my first Banjo gig, I was surprised by the 'play' on both axels, is this normal or should the axel at the backing plate be more tight? Thanks.
@@WaxMeister what keeps it from moving in and out is the inner bearings and shims, if it moves in and out then it need to be rebuild, but if the axle moves up/down side to side it’s completely normal because the wheel bearing and hub keeps it in place
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Thanks, I was hoping that was the case - phew, I didn't want to get further into the rear end at this point. But, I'll check the lash once I get the diff off the floor and on my bench.
@@WaxMeister No problem!
What oil should be use ? Thank s
Great video 🇺🇸💪
600 weight is what the Ford manual recommends
Great info thanks for sharing!
Not a problem thank you for watching!
Very helpful, Could you show how and where the vent is installed?
Thank you Thomas, you can put the vent almost anywhere on the axle tube itself, drill and tap a brass fitting with a bung for a rubber hose facing upwards
Great instructioal video.
Thank you!
Spot on video...my banjo is very noisy, whine I suspect the ring and pinion is worn out..should these axles be quiet or any noise at all..any tips will be welcome thanks
Hard to say without hearing it myself, compared to a newer axle I would consider them noisy but the transmission is pretty noisy too, you could be hearing that
Hi Zac
Awesome video. Very helpful
I have a stock 29 Ford Model A pickup. I just pulled the rear end because I lost all forward and reverse gears. I thought one of the axles shafts may be broken. When i lifted the rear of the pickup the passenger side kind of spins but not much. The drivers side axle doesn't do anything. When you take the fill plug out of the banjo you can see the spider gears moving when you spin the passenger side wheel by hand. But the drivers side still does nothing.
Do you think its the rear axle or maybe the clutch? (If I don't have to split the rear axle open I'd prefer not to.) The transmission seems to go into gear but doesn't make the pickup move. I've put the rear on jack stand and hand spun the engine and the drive shaft spins and spins the spider gears and the passenger axle. Still nothing from the drivers side. When I put a screw driver into the drain hole in the banjo to hold the driveshaft from spinning from the front it won't hand crank. So I believed everything from the front to the spider gears is ok. Thats why I pulled the rear end.
I live in a remote area in the middle of the ocean. Not to many Model A's and no shop will touch it. So I decided to try myself.
Any wisdom would be appreciated.
Thank you
Russ
Nice job and thank you for the video!
hello Zac, in the differential of my Ford 47, I did the cardan reform) like the one in your video) with the difference that I had to do it myself, since in Argentina the change does not favor me and it is very expensive to import it from the US , it fits me well although for my taste not so neat, since I had to make it longer and place the seal holder with bearings (if it is difficult to understand I invite you to see my Facebook Leo flathead) thank you very much for sharing your videos they are fantastic, best regards from Argentina
Nice video
My f3 truck has this rear ,thanks
No problem! Thank you for watching
0754. What size bung are you using to vent the housing? Great video.
I bought oil seals for the rear end, Part # B-4245 - it looks like a 3 foot reach to drive them in, but best way to get the old ones out?
Very nice video thank’s for sharing your tips. I want to know where do you put the vent you’ve showed at the end?
Thanks for the great video! Quick change next time?
Another great video !
Thank you!
Great video that is much needed. Would have loved to have seen the lost part. My recently purchased 1945 half ton has been sitting because there is almost no info and not sure if anyone is trustworthy who won't charge a king's ransom. FIRST time I took it across town it lost drive. The driveshaft spins but no drive. Is there a second shear pin that could cause this in addition to the input pin? If it's not a shear pin, this video gives me the confidence to do it myself! Also Zack, don't you have to use machinists blue to make sure the ring and pinion gears are meshing correctly or is lash the only adjustment? Thanks.
Thanks for watching Steve! There is no second shear pin, and on these early rear axles they are a different animal, only lash adjustment is needed and no dies needed to check mesh
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Thank you. You are providing a very valuable service. I have Vern Tardel's book on the banjo, but your video I find far more useful.
@@steves8014 thanks Steve, I have the same book, a lot of good information, it’s still nice to see it done in a video, to a lot of people it makes more since
Mate I just found you , I like your Channel I all so have a banjo diff and I would like to loos the Torque tube so Would you have the part No of the bearing housing for the Yoke and the Yoke , please that would be a grate help O and the Pinion shaft , thank you Mate , you may not notice , I'm Australia Mate
Does the diff rebuild kit from the early Ford Store include the large double race sleeve? OEM Part # 48-4616
Zac, are the rear ends in the 48 to 50 F-1s about the same?
is there a torque value for bolting the two halves together?
good job brother
Cool vid man
Can you show a Columbia 2 speed video???
friend congratulations very explanatory video, i would like to ask you about the color of this car behind you, very beautiful, i will paint a Ford of mine, and i would like to know this car pattern hugs,
its an original ford maroon, thanks for watching!
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop tks friend
@@joaoromaoquerido3709 no problem!
Arent you adding torque by using the wrench extension on your torque wrench? Aiming for 15, setting at 20, you probably ended up with 25. I am really enjoying your videos, recently entered the early Ford arena. Do you still have rear hub pullers for sale?
YEs he is
where did you buy the wrench you used to on the nut when you set the preload?
Snyder's, same as a model a.
Is that a 32 banjo with model A axle tubes?
Also please show the vent you installed.
Good instructional video. Love it!
I’ll post some more pictures of it online Roger 👍🏼 thank you! It’s a 1947 Truck rear end
Can you show part number for pressure release and we’re to purchase
What fluid would you recommend for 38 ford coupe original banjo rear end. Thanks Jonathan
600w 👍🏼
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Thank you brother.
Like ur middle finger grease technique !!! Lol
What gear oil do you recommend?
I doubt the extension induces a 60% error. You count it as not there.
So Zac, I never had time the other day to finish my comment on rebuilding a banjo rear end, so here goes. With all due respect what you did on that rebuild as far as preload, tells you nothing about how much that bearing was preloaded. If you put 15ft. lbs. of torque on that first nut that double pinion bearing might last five minutes. What you need is a 1/4'' drive inch pound torque wrench. A 1/4'' drive socket and a six spline coupler. Take and weld the1/4'' drive socket to the six spline coupler. Slide the six spline coupler onto the splined pinion shaft and attached the inch pound torque wrench to the welded on socket. Mount the banjo in a vice with the pinion shaft looking up Now slowly turn the torque wrench as you slowly tighten the first nut and read the torque wrench dial. You're looking for 13 to 15 INCH pounds on the dial. Then install the locking "Flats" washer and the second nut. Hold the first nut with a "thin" wrench and torque down the second nut with a second "thin" wrench. Recheck your preload after torqueing the second nut. Your preload will sometimes change after torqueing the second nut. Make the necessary adjustments.
Now as far as setting the preload on the Differential Carrier I shoot for eight (8 lbs ) preload on it. I start with two .009 thousands gaskets from that gasket kit you have. Place one on each axle housing/ banjo and bolt up. Now turn the pinion shaft with the same torque wrench and read the dial. You're looking for 22 to 23 inch lbs. on the dial. Depends on where you set the pinion preload. If you set the pinion at 15 inch pounds and you add 8 inch pounds on the diff. carrier than you're looking for 23inch pounds on the dial. Now, if the diff carrier is too tight you need to add gaskets/shims to the passenger side axle housing side only. You adjust Diff. Carrier preload with passenger axle housing not the drivers side axle housing Adjust with gaskets until you reach 23 inch lbs on the dial.
Now the drivers side axle housing is used to set back lash. The limits are .003 to.008 thousands on a stub mount pinion and .006 to .010 thousands on a straddle mount pinion. All 1933 to 1948 Ford Banjos are straddle mount type banjos. Adjust back lash at the splined end of the pinion shaft with a dial indicator. Now here comes the trick! If you have to add gaskets/ shims the the drivers side to adjust the back lash you have to take away the same amount from the passenger side. If you don't you change the Diff. carrier preload. Also, remember this, if the back lash is too tight meaning the pinion gear is too far into the ring gear the rear end will hum and make noise. If the pinion gear is not deep enough into the ring gear you could chip a ring gear tooth. So back lash is important. Try this set up, it works for me every time If I missed something let me know
Bill,
Does this also work with the truck banjo open drive?
@@shawnsaunders9730 If it's the 1/2 ton pickup, yes, it's the same rearend only open drive. All the specks are the same.
When I said 1/2 ton pickup I'm talking pickups with Banjo rearends .
How durable are these rearend? These aren't posi are they?
@@johngrepo9976 John, If the Banjo rearend is built right and run with a Flathead or even a Hot Flathead and driven correctly, it is a reliable and durable rearend. Now you can upgrade it by installing 28 spline slide-in axles. That will make it bullet proof for the Flathead. Checkout Hot Rod Works for the upgrade. And no, they are not posi.
Timely video. We’re about to do a quick change.
How to remove a torque tube from a banjo where in
Thanks for watching! Removing the torque tube is as easy as removing a couple bolts and a pin 👍🏼
How to remove a talk to for banjo way around
No problem 👍🏼
I thought your presentation was excellent Zac
Thanks Mark!
I beleive red grease is for rubber applications,,I don't think it's suitable for extream high pressure or temp,,A good molly grease is ok for bearings ..
That pinion torque setup will not give the correct torque.
Verbatim right out of the original Ford manual from 1948
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop the torque wrench should be 90 degrees to the tool when using a crows foot or wrench. Thanks for the video I learned a lot.
toooo much grease...................
can you fit a bung if the axle is already installed in a car?