Installing the Creality CR-10 All Metal Hot End Upgrade by Micro-Swiss

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ม.ค. 2025

ความคิดเห็น • 354

  • @3DPrintingNerd
    @3DPrintingNerd  7 ปีที่แล้ว +10

    Sorry about the earlier audio glitch. This is more betterer. Stay awesome. #highfive

    • @zerbert107dailyvlogs6
      @zerbert107dailyvlogs6 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      3D Printing Nerd can I use the Olson ruby nozzle on this product

    • @fa2ality
      @fa2ality 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      is it worth the upgrade?

    • @Pew_Pew_Pizza
      @Pew_Pew_Pizza 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Would this work on the Tronxy X3?

    • @tiberiocellini3641
      @tiberiocellini3641 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      3D Printing Nerd What is better: this or the e3d v6?

  • @CorvetteFan86
    @CorvetteFan86 5 ปีที่แล้ว +29

    Anyone else see the irony in the host cutting open the microswiss box with a swiss army knife?

    • @HitchSteam
      @HitchSteam 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Well I noticed that he didn't mention the swiss army knife as tools needed for installation - you need to open the box.......

  • @SamChaneyProductions
    @SamChaneyProductions 5 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    6:00 As an engineer it's very odd to me that you removed the heater block screws. They add a lot of rigidity and strength to the assembly and without them, the only thing holding the heater block on is that tiny grub screw. Did the micro-swiss instructions specify to do this? Steel doesn't actually transfer heat very well so they shouldn't affect the heat transfer very much.

    • @patracy
      @patracy 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I'm wondering the same thing.

    • @superkarrtoon
      @superkarrtoon ปีที่แล้ว +1

      they dont help hold the heater block on, but they do help keep the heater cylinder tight against the heater block for better transfer of heat, he shouldnt have done that, its really strange and bad advice now the heating cylinder is loose

  • @PowerUpGamingCanada
    @PowerUpGamingCanada 5 ปีที่แล้ว +50

    Anyone else having an OCD moment about the bowden tube being inserted when it wasn't cut straight?

    • @beauvella32
      @beauvella32 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yes

    • @theothertroll
      @theothertroll 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      just butt-heads that don't realize on the all metal hot end it doesn't matter ~

    • @beauvella32
      @beauvella32 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@theothertroll the only downside to all metal hot ends u can get some bad heat creap with pla if u don't print fast or colder like 185 is fine but it's better for abs

    • @spongebob358
      @spongebob358 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@beauvella32 Nice tip.

    • @NeoandGeo
      @NeoandGeo 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Heat Creep is only an issue with all metal hotends if you try and use silent fan options for the hotend. The default fans are noisy, but they have significantly higher Static pressure and CFM more suited for cooling the cold end.
      If using Noctua make sure to use the 4020 variant, but even with that you risk heat creep, it's been shown to be near useless with the Hemera unless you are running low amperage in combination with low PLA temps.

  • @MyBelfry
    @MyBelfry 7 ปีที่แล้ว +14

    Can you give a break down on what types of situations I would need the "All Metal Hotend" vs the "Flexible Friendly Hotend" you have both linked below I intend to use both flexible and wood/metal filaments in the future.

  • @bobbyfischer7609
    @bobbyfischer7609 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I just bought this all metal hot end for my CR10s. I started printing PETG on the stock hot end and now it won’t extrude at all. I read PETG needs an all metal. So I am hopeful this is the key. Thanks Joel. High five.

  • @nickanderson8305
    @nickanderson8305 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    I just picked up my micro Swiss today from the mail. Super stoked to set it up after this print is done

  • @Hanoveur
    @Hanoveur 7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I didn't have the two screws holding on the heater block, also the sock does NOT fit over the stock heater block. After you've tightened the nozzle, you might have to cool down and remove the cover to get the sock on correctly.

  • @Cyberdactyl
    @Cyberdactyl 4 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    What is up with removing the heat clamp screws?

  • @mikeewer7240
    @mikeewer7240 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Incredible timing on this video. I Just got the same CR 10 and the same nozzle upgrade from tiny machines. it was delivered last weekend. I’ve had it set up and done a few prints but was unsure how and when to install the upgraded hotend. Well, problem solved. Thanks a million!

  • @iamweapon
    @iamweapon 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Why does he remove the two screws on the hotend at the end before installing the sock? I don't understand...

  • @Deneteus
    @Deneteus 7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Awesome video.
    Why did you leave the stock block there rather than use the one that came in the box?
    Why didn't you push the PTFE into the clip before pulling it out?
    The ring on the inside will sometimes have frayed the PTFE making it hard to pull out. Also the plastic ring has to be pushed down uniformly.
    There are a couple things important to point out for people upgrading.
    1. Firmware should be upgraded if you plan to go past 270C.
    You don't have to upgrade the firmware but you are missing out on Marlin features that did not exist in the stock Creality Firmware that will improve your prints (Linear Advance & Unified Bed Leveling) and reduce the chance of a fire if you leave your printer unattended.
    2. The stock thermistor is rated to 270C.
    Better thermistors can be had from Amazon and Ebay. I use the M3 HEX Screw-In M3 EPCOS Thermistor because nobody has time for trying to insert a glass bead thermistor into a hot end.
    3. The retraction settings will need to be changed for better performance. (2mm or less. Retraction of 1 to .5mm is common)
    Misconfigured retraction settings cause clogs. Even the E3D documentation says this.
    e3d-online.dozuki.com/Wiki/V6_Troubleshooting
    4. The PTFE Tube doesn't have to go as far down into the Microswiss block.
    5. This is the best time to upgrade to Capricorn TL to reduce friction to help with retraction.
    6. The temperatures needed to print the same material may need to be raised 5 to 10C per the manual. Not paying attention to this can cause clogs because of the cooling that can happen when printing faster.
    7. Make sure to learn about PIDAutotuning so that you can set the temp that you want to print at in the firmware. The hot end will heat faster once it is tuned.
    I own the Wanhao i3 All Metal, Wanhao D6 All Metal, and Creality CR10 All Metal Micro-Swiss upgrades. Allot of people don't read the instructions or do their research before upgrading. Don't listen to anyone that hasn't physically put their hands on it or used the hot end for longer than a few days.
    There are people getting some awesome prints out of them and there are some that are struggling because they upgraded before they even knew how to get great prints out of the Stock CR10 Hot End. Ignorant users love to 'Upgrade Bandwagon'.
    I only recommend this upgrade for people that are going to take the time to learn their printer and Slicer. I would also recommend this hot end as a replacement for anyone that destroyed their stock hot end trying to take it apart.
    I would definitely recommend this upgrade to anyone before going the E3D V6 route because you can keep the stock fan assembly/look.

  • @doctorzoidberg1715
    @doctorzoidberg1715 4 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Wait so you just put the screws in and then ultimately leave them out at the end?

  • @RyunForsman
    @RyunForsman 7 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    I love the use of a Swiss army knife to open the micro switch box!

  • @JoelMcLaughlin
    @JoelMcLaughlin 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I'd leave those screws on the bottommof the heat block because that grub screw just isn't enough to hold it and every CR-10 comes with them in and I think Sexy Cyborg said to leave them in.

  • @freddyt55555
    @freddyt55555 5 วันที่ผ่านมา

    6:01 - Why do you remove those screws?

  • @GordonGEICO
    @GordonGEICO 6 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    I'm not going to lie, I wish E3D had a design similar to this hotend, at least in terms of mounting. I'm not a fan of groovemount, and I also like how this has a secured heater block that can't twist around on you like E3D can.

  • @brandengooch4101
    @brandengooch4101 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    What would be the point in removing the two screws on the heat block? Would it be harmful to the device to leave them screwed in?

    •  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      .

  • @thewrightstuff6174
    @thewrightstuff6174 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Why remove the screws. Don’t they provide added stability ??

  • @Makenitso
    @Makenitso 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    I went all metal with my E3d about a year back and i couldn't be happier with it. Over temp'ing the PTFE lined hot ends causes so many issues and they seem to destroy themselves anyway after a fair amount of use. At least with the all metal hot ends you don't need to tweak your settings over time as the PTFE liner degrades :)

  • @SplicesAndCelluloid
    @SplicesAndCelluloid 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great video Joel, but I have one concern. At 4:50, it appears the thermistor has PTFE sleeving, which should not be pushed past ~245° C, because it starts to release neurotoxins, such why you would get this upgrade. Can you confirm it is PTFE, or is it something else? You could always swap it out with the glass fiber sleeving you see on e3d hotends if it is though.
    #HighFive

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Ooh, I'll check it out!

    • @Deneteus
      @Deneteus 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      The PTFE fails at 250C the thermistor is actually rated at 270C. The sleeving is silicone, just like the sleeving on the heater cartridge.

  • @rw3930
    @rw3930 6 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Another heater block came in the kit. Why did you use the stock one?

    • @ooliver
      @ooliver 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      dav lov I mean, the thermistor is a tiny glass bead not a cartridge

  • @brig8683
    @brig8683 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Are the colored bits on the cr-10 factory? I have an Ender 3 and I would love to know if I could print those out and jazz up my printer

  • @mikeneron
    @mikeneron 7 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Curious why you cut the Bowden tube near the heat block. You can use one of the wrenches that came with the CR-10 to remove that whole piece and then the tube would pull right out.

    • @markburton5292
      @markburton5292 7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      you are correct but i think it was because this was faster/simpler however I did notice that he didn't square off the cut ptfe tube and he used flush cuts. This could cause problems later first with it not being square you do run the possibility of getting some back flow and a blockage. second using flush cuts you can crush the ptfe inner diameter and that can cause additional resistance and possibly blockage.

    • @anthonyrich1592
      @anthonyrich1592 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      The tube can only be pulled one way (further into the fitting) unless you can push the ring down to release the grips.

  • @imothy
    @imothy 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Why do you remove the 2 heater block screws at 6:01 wouldn't this cause problems later?

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      I don’t think so? It is what their instructions said to do.

  • @blakepie3
    @blakepie3 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi gang. Once this hot end is installed, are there any settings that need to be changed in the firmware to allow the hot end to actually reach the 300C? Every vid I've seen only shows the physical installation, but I'm pretty sure the CR-10s is capped at about 260C. Any help appreciated!!!

  • @spongebob358
    @spongebob358 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Anybody know why the heater block shipped with the Micro-Swiss was not used. ??
    and instead Joel used the ender3 original. Would the other not have advantages. ??

  • @FunKing3d
    @FunKing3d 7 ปีที่แล้ว +39

    Hey Joel, what is the reason for taking the 2 screws out from the heater block to cooling block before putting the sock on? I was thinking it was very cool (no pun intended) to have those to hold the heater block for nozzle removal. Just curious.

    • @johnkad272
      @johnkad272 7 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      It probably keeps heat from the heater block from going up the screws and into the the cooling block.

    • @FunKing3d
      @FunKing3d 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I was kind of thinking that same thing (hence the no pun intended line LOL) But the factory one had those screws. Maybe Microswiss figured out they got better heat retention with out them, but I just thought it was a decent design to not have to hold the heater block to remove the nozzle during changes. It intrigues me. Thanks for replying to me!

    • @WhereNerdyisCool
      @WhereNerdyisCool 7 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      I wondered the same, thanks for asking this...I would think those screws would make a quick nozzle change easier (so hang on to them?)

    • @scythe3000
      @scythe3000 7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Removing them will definitely aid with heat separation. All metal hot ends can suffer quite significantly from the smallest amount of heat creep so removing the presumably aluminium or steal screws will limit heat transfer to just the titanium heat break (which doesn’t conduct heat all that well)
      It’s presumably less of an issue with the Teflon lined hotend so the screws stayed in place?

    • @FunKing3d
      @FunKing3d 7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I can see the science in that. If the screws were to stay, the heat would creep through them to the cooling block. But by removing them, the heat break is the only path and being titanium will slow the heat creep. So, I have titanium screws in one of my RC cars, titanium screws to the cooling block? LOL! I guess it would be easy enough to run those screws in when changing the nozzle.

  • @grahamm2281
    @grahamm2281 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for reading my mind! I bought the Micro Swiss upgrade for the CR-10 yesterday!

  • @Brandon_Makes_Stuff
    @Brandon_Makes_Stuff 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Sweet Upgrade! Seems like a nice mod to make CR-10's unstoppable!

  • @horrorskop
    @horrorskop 7 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    I absolutely love the way you did this.
    Great work

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Thank you very much! Big props to my editor, Sean, as well! He makes magic from whatever I'm able to get to him :)

    • @JamesKruseArtist
      @JamesKruseArtist 7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      So why remove the two screws at the end of the install before adding the insulation?

  • @MedallionDave
    @MedallionDave 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey Joel et al.. I've a Microswiss All metal hotend on my old CTC flashforge clone, i did the upgrade last year, and I'm not joking but one of the best upgrades I added :)

  • @araiza444
    @araiza444 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Joel, I am trying to find information on how to upgrade my CR10s with micro-swiss to reach 310C. I cannot find any information on upgrading with original equipment, do you have any suggestions or recommended sources that I can use? Do I need a K-Type thermocouple, and if so, I am not sure if interface board is required or pinout instructions for integration into original CR10 control board... BTW, have been a big fan for a very long time. Thanks!

  • @RAIDONGAMING
    @RAIDONGAMING 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Why did you remove the screws at the end to install the insulation piece ?

  • @jeremiaszbojanowski8595
    @jeremiaszbojanowski8595 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I could listen to Joel Telling about everything :) (not only about printers) The Vibe of the name is not given without the reason :) Lova ya 👍👍

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      +Jeremiasz Bojanowski aww thank you!

    • @jeremiaszbojanowski8595
      @jeremiaszbojanowski8595 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      No, seriously :D You have the voice. Is there any chance that you will stream something else? I like Punished Props. Is there anything you love beside 3D printing (and family)? :)

  • @xnukutuc
    @xnukutuc 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    why does he remove the screws that connect the hotend to the radiator?

  • @brianpercival1829
    @brianpercival1829 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Bought an A10S for $200, not yet received and already looking for upgrades. This looks like a great upgrade. Why remove the 2 bottom screws? To me it would be better to leave them in place?

  • @KoalatyGamer
    @KoalatyGamer 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    why didnt you use the new heater block and just reuse the old one?

  • @lipservicecrew
    @lipservicecrew 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    what about the fan blowing on the hot end ?

  • @ethansdad3d
    @ethansdad3d 7 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    I prefer to use a sharp blade to cut PTFE tubing because it doesn't deform it like side cutters.

  • @kvnR
    @kvnR 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    What if I don't want to reuse the current heater block? I might get one of these but I'm not sure how to install the cables into the new heater block

    • @ericvauwee4923
      @ericvauwee4923 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      just install them the same way they are installed in the original one, you basically cant screw this up.

  • @davidbutcher6637
    @davidbutcher6637 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi i have a CR10-max have upgraded to a micro-swiss direct drive all metal hot end and was wondering is there a better hot end for this mounting as it clogs then cant get the screws un done have had the tip unwind its self even though it was up to 235c when i tightened it now has a blockage in the heat break and cant get it out of the heated finned block. I'm thinking there must be a more robust type of direct drive system that is extremley reliable ???

  • @pape21
    @pape21 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    installed this yesterday, but i keep getting blockages between the titantum heat break and the cooling block which fails my print. the heat break is in correct and the grub screw is tight and retraction is set low as reccomended.

  • @jonhuss6783
    @jonhuss6783 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hello, I have a Creality CR-10S Printer that I can't get to print. The z Axis goes up and down when homing but won't When Printing. It just stays on the first layer. Is this a printer problem or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?

  • @theodorehoyer5950
    @theodorehoyer5950 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have a CR10S Pro V2 I see this is shorter that the standard hot end plus now with the BL touch it is way off. do you have any good idea's on making this all balance correctly ?

  • @seanpuffer8436
    @seanpuffer8436 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Could you do a similar video for the prusa MK2? But could you should how to remove the wiring with the thermistor and everything, then reinstall all the new wiring

  • @idig3d
    @idig3d 7 ปีที่แล้ว +13

    Great video production (and entertainment) as usual, but there are few discrepancies. You used CR-10S--the video title says CR-10. The heater block on the S is different than the original CR-10 I have--no two screws on the bottom.
    The original CR-10 has a firmware set temperature limit to 260C. To reach higher temps, you have to flash the firmware. To flash the firmware you have to install a bootloader on the original CR-10--seek other videos.
    One filament manufacturer (name escapes me) I ran across does not recommend an all metal for their PLA filament--so you may add some difficulty if you need to print PLA again--possibly an oiler might help but need to be tested.
    Some higher temp filaments need a hotter bed. With added insulation, my stock CR-10 bed can reach over 100C (with enough time). I think the CR-10S bed may not go over 85C without added difficulties.
    With higher temps, you may have to reset the PID. May need an enclosure.
    This could be a great upgrade if you have multiple machines and and dial it in for one type fo filament, but if you need to go back to PLA, you might have to work to get it dialed back in.
    Please test the upgrade with actual prints. But love your damn positivity. From a fellow giant (2 meters)--an extra-high five!

    • @ledfed1912
      @ledfed1912 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      The cr10 s4 stock wont go much above 65 degrees stock after a while, near impossible to print abs well unless you have a good enclosure have insulated it well and wait ages before you print to heat up.

    • @moptop85
      @moptop85 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks for the info, I'm looking at getting cr10. What all did you do to insulate bed? What temps are you able to get?

    • @ledfed1912
      @ledfed1912 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      I don't have the s4 i read on forums what others did and how well bed insulation works. I have the CR10S and it came with the bed already insulated it will go up to around 110 degrees c after some time without enclosure. I have read after someone insulated their s4 it would reach something like 96 degrees c without enclosure, enough to print abs i think. So if you were to add bed insulation (i'm not sure what to get though i think those high temp insulation pads for cars work) you can print abs well with the s4 i think.

  • @TheAthziry
    @TheAthziry 6 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    what about to update firmware..to rich 300°C

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      300c and above are for more engineering grade filaments such as PEEK and Ultem

    • @beauvella32
      @beauvella32 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      285 is safe for all metal hotend with a Capricorn tube, anyone know how to change the settings from 260

    • @beauvella32
      @beauvella32 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@3DPrintingNerd how would I change the maximum temp in printer firmware for PC

    • @johnbasterson7938
      @johnbasterson7938 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @Colin Davis with a capricorn tube you can print nylon on the stock cr10. Straight nylon no additives that push the temp required past 260 of course. You just need to go get some metal insulation tape and use that to insulate your hotbed. Also a makeshift enclosure will help but not required. I have mine in a small bedroom I can keep at 80-100 degrees F easily with a huge cardboard box I set over the printer. No idea how hit it gets under the box but it works and I get excellent durable nylon prints I use on RC crawlers.

  • @elrondmcbong467
    @elrondmcbong467 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    IDK if this is standart but my CR10 even came with a 2nd sparw bowden-tube.

  • @adamsagar8705
    @adamsagar8705 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    a bit late to the party but why does he undo the screws on the bottom of the heat block to put the silicone cover on?

  • @lipservicecrew
    @lipservicecrew 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    what about the max temp set in the firmware ?

  • @TacBlades
    @TacBlades 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I have a capricon tube and hardened nozzle on my stock hot end so I can do hot temps, but this is nice option for sure. I am surprised that creality havnt developed their own all metal hot end as an option.

  • @rothery2
    @rothery2 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    How come you didn't install the new heater block that it came with?

  • @Taematoe
    @Taematoe 7 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Why remove the 2 screws at the end? Are they in the way of the silicon sock?

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      +M Beck nope, just part of the instructions I was given.

  • @moonrunner3050
    @moonrunner3050 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Can you please do a video on how to use the "Motion" settings on the CR10. Tks

  • @romeo032982
    @romeo032982 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Why dose that cr-10 look way bigger than mine ??

  • @martureomartus
    @martureomartus 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    hi, in order to print higher temps, how do we add a pt100 to a cr10s?

  • @stevei7221
    @stevei7221 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great video...But what holds the heater block in if you've taken the screws out?

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Prayer.
      Heh. No, it’s the threads on the throat.

    • @stevei7221
      @stevei7221 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@3DPrintingNerd Thanks for the reply...But....why are the screws on there in the first place then?

  • @livingplasma
    @livingplasma 7 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    When you were showing the kit, there was a new heater block included. Why did you reuse the stock one?

    • @WhereNerdyisCool
      @WhereNerdyisCool 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I thought that too, perhaps to not have the hassle of trying to remove/replace the heater and sensor in the new one?

    • @Deneteus
      @Deneteus 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      He probably didn't want to have to remove the thermistor. I left my stock heatsink alone just in case I needed to switch back to stock.

    • @heeder777
      @heeder777 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Glad I’m not the only curious person. I wondered the same thing.

  • @WardenTauros
    @WardenTauros 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    I saw this the other week, been waiting for it to be available locally.
    Figured i'd upgrade after the disaster that happened to the original hot end.

  • @jevansturner
    @jevansturner 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    I might need someone to explain to me: How is this any more or less "metal" than the standard hot end? This seems to replace some parts that are already metal.

  • @stevedutton1967
    @stevedutton1967 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi do they make a version of this that does not have the 2 bottom holes in heater block ? as i have the hictop cr-10 and that does not have those 2 holes :(
    or would i need to buy a original crealty heater block

  • @jujucattys156
    @jujucattys156 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    will any mk10 fit any printer uses mk10 as in can i use mk10 for say a Creality on a tronxy xy2 pro

  • @avi8trgal17
    @avi8trgal17 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    I am screwing the new micro swiss into a Tevo Tornado...The mricro swiss is smaller than my old heat sink...so it is a bit loose... Do they these types of screws at like Home Depot...? I am a newbie...Sorry..

  • @CraigMetzer-nh5rs
    @CraigMetzer-nh5rs 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Hi, I have done a hotend upgrade on my cr10. I now have a error coming up as termal run away. How do I fix this problem

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Check to make sure your thermistor is properly attached. Thermal runaway can occur when the thermistor isn’t reading what it thinks is the correct temp.

  • @ZebraandDonkey
    @ZebraandDonkey 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    how did you get the piece of PTFE tube from your other hotend? I have the same problem and have not been able to figure out how to get it out.

    • @iceCOLDkillaxDLoL
      @iceCOLDkillaxDLoL 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Try pressing the PTFE inside to relieve some pressure from the claws which grab on the tube and simutaneously push the release mechanism.

  • @AlexanderGee
    @AlexanderGee 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey guys, I did this upgrade a while back I'm getting constant jamming on Polycarbonate and PLA when the ambient air temperature is over 30C. Is anyone else had to deal with this?

  • @Magic3DPrinting
    @Magic3DPrinting 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Joel... Actually thats what I’ve already done but the CR-10 hot end parts are a bit non-standard so I thought I would upgrade. Perhaps an E3D V6 would allow me to use the Capricorn tubing? Never done one although I’ve been printing for about a year.

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hmm... reach out to E3D on twitter, they are usually very responsive! Good luck, and let me know what you find out!

    • @MattWeber
      @MattWeber 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      no need to change hot end to use capricorn. The cr10 doesnt have a seperate ptfe liner, and instead uses the bowden tube itself and the heatbreak line. So upgrading to capricorn gives you high heat tolerance without any hardware like an all metal hot end. Firmware high temp limit and heater cartridge are then your only limits of reaching up to 300C

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      +Matt Weber BAM.

  • @live2ride883
    @live2ride883 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have a Tevo Tornado, with the stock hot end. The setup is very similar to the CR-10. I currently print in PLA, PETG. However I would like to also print with wood, and TPU.
    Do I need to change the hot end in order to print in TPU, and do I need to change it back to use PLA, PETG again?
    Sorry for the "basic" questions, but I tend to over think things.

  • @lecter1531
    @lecter1531 7 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Why do you need to remove the 2 screws holding the heaterblock at the end?

    • @blepblep8267
      @blepblep8267 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      i was wondering about that to O.o i put the sock on with the screws in and it worked fine.

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I don't think you HAVE to, but, it's part of the Micro Swiss instructions, and those were what I wanted to follow.

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  7 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      However, leaving those two screws in means that there are two more pathways for heat to travel to the cooling block from the heater block. I'm not sure how much that impacts performance, but, it might.

    • @0calvin
      @0calvin 7 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      I think the screws are there to help prevent breaking the heat break when tightening the nozzle, but should be removed during use to prevent heat from traveling through them from the hot side to he cold side.

  • @muskateer10
    @muskateer10 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Do you have to do anything to the firmware after changing to the Mcro Swiss hotend? Or is that only when you change to a different thermistor setup?

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      You don’t. You CAN change it to allow for higher temps as it’ll take 300c.

  • @johnbasterson7938
    @johnbasterson7938 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    High temp boden tube is a cheaper and more reliable upgrade that will allow your stock cr10 to print up to nylon temps. With no problems.

  • @cmcgeejr
    @cmcgeejr 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Joel. Do you know if they all include the blue silicone sock? From the links you provided to their product, the sock is not listed in either option, nor is it in the pictures or their installation video. I would like the sock and was wondering.

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      +Chuck McGee that's a good question. I would reach out to them and send them an email to confirm.

    • @cmcgeejr
      @cmcgeejr 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks. I emailed them and they replied..."Yes silicone sock will be included with all CR-10 kits.
      We will update the listing and pictures soon."

  • @shoomaklovesemmy
    @shoomaklovesemmy 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    what will be the max temperature that I can set in cr-10s after upgrading it to an all metal hotend?

    • @ooliver
      @ooliver 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      shoomaklovesemmy all metal can go 285 but it depends

  • @mmckeown503
    @mmckeown503 7 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Ok will try asking the question again. What exactly will this help with as far as hotter temp filaments and abrasives filaments? My son and I have been printing with PLA for our first couple of rolls of our first 3D Printer. When we moved to PETG we have had no luck getting good infill and supports to print. Would this upgrade help with that? What settings do you suggest for petg with a cr10s and what advantages are there to this upgrade not mentioned in the video.
    Btw the previous version of the video was great, just had the music missing on your intro?
    Thank you
    Matt

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Hello, Matt! Last video DID have some audio glitches, and a re-render was what was needed. As for this, it helps for hotter filaments and for abrasive filaments because it is all metal from the top of the cooling block to the end of the nozzle. This means the heater block can get much hotter without risking damage to a PTFE lined cooler block (like what the CR-10 comes with). Also, the nozzle is nickel plated, which makes it resistant to abrasive materials, like carbon fiber PLA, and the metal infused filaments. A standard brass nozzle orifice gets widened over a short amount of time when printing with abrasive materials. However, with this plated nozzle, it's wear resistant and will last much longer. I hope that helps!

    • @mmckeown503
      @mmckeown503 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      3D Printing Nerd thank you for your reply. Makes sense now.

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      wooo!

    • @0calvin
      @0calvin 7 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      This won't change anything as far as printing with petg. Assuming you are at the right temperature for petg, try printing slower.

    • @Mr3DPrintWizard
      @Mr3DPrintWizard 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      3D Printing Nerd the all metal hot end nozzle is only so good with abrasive filaments. It wears quickly still even with most glow filaments.
      It's still a soft brass nozzle. I really wouldn't recommend it for much beyond woodfill and never ever use it for metal fill.

  • @shadowfan8296
    @shadowfan8296 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    😕yeah I have a question why do they go by millimeters and not inches is so confusing for me I can't figure out what 300 by 300 by 400 mm that actually means😕

    • @laurierim
      @laurierim 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Because the majority of the world uses the metric system which is more accurate.

    • @heeder777
      @heeder777 6 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I was like you about 5 years ago. Once I started using the metric system it became clear why it’s really easier. Once you “get” that it’s all based on ten then the magic starts. You can use a conversion calculator found all over the web. Use it to get familiar with inches to mm, CM? Drop a zero. The biggest plus is when you have the need to find a Centerpoint. I also have some CNC machines so I use measurements in the thousandths. Metric also makes it easier especially if you understand both. Now when it comes to my favorite adult beverage, I still call a fifth a fifth, a quart a quart and a half gallon, well you get it. You young guys may not have ever heard of a fifth!😉🥃 Don’t worry, if you use it enough, one day it will “Click” and you’ll say HEY! Now it makes sense.

  • @krolgeorge78
    @krolgeorge78 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    I think there is a design flaw with the one I got. There is a chamfer on the aluminum heat sink bottom face and on the titanium round connection and the filament is jamming during retraction. Not so good! I using carbon fiber filament. Let me see how it works with PLA.

  • @misadventuresin3dprinting.545
    @misadventuresin3dprinting.545 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Nice job. I installed an E3D hot end to my CR-10 and my A8.

  • @seandevine9846
    @seandevine9846 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Joel can the ruby nozzle be used with the all metal hot end. im thinking long term ware on a plated nozzle vs a ruby nozzle for use with abrasive filaments.

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      I believe so. A ruby and an all metal hot end can be friends.

  • @DCDLaserCNC
    @DCDLaserCNC 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great video! Can this print carbon fiber filament without tearing up the nozzle?

    • @PowerUpGamingCanada
      @PowerUpGamingCanada 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      That depends on the nozzle, not the hot end. An all metal hot end is always recommended with things like carbon fiber that require a higher heat setting though. The nozzle that comes with this hot end is better for abrasives though.

  • @AJB2K3
    @AJB2K3 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Wow, that old hotend is well made.

  • @jflugum
    @jflugum 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Does anyone think this could work as a replacement for the Anet E10 hot end?

  • @Famousbird54
    @Famousbird54 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey 3D Printing Nerd I really need help. I have a cr-10 and it hasn't worked in 6 months. All my prints are coming out really fussy and hairy and i have tried just about everything. I have changed belts and tightened everything down. I have tried different filaments and different files sliced by different slicers. I have slowed down the printer and have changed heat setting along with countless other settings and it all seems to make no difference. I'm thinking maybe if i change my hot end it will help because mine is a little ruff but I honestly don't know and I don't want to put money into a printer that's not worth putting it into. I loved 3d printing but I'm honestly about to quit because this problem has been unsolved for so long and I have tried so many things its ruining it for me.

  • @ronaldacosta313
    @ronaldacosta313 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    i already ordered the hot end , but now i'm afraid to install it and run into problems, would you recommend it? i was reading we need to also upgrade the fans... and wrap the block...

  • @lorgematt
    @lorgematt 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    I was just wondering if you have ever printed wax filament

  • @estevanvaldez437
    @estevanvaldez437 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I just ordered my first printer super excited I got ender3 I wanna print that NylonX stuff looks awesome ...

    • @SuperDavidiam
      @SuperDavidiam 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Me too, NylonX is my next filament, apparently a pain to get it to stick to the bed though.

  • @irblinx
    @irblinx 7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Great video as usual Joel, I have heard a lot of people having issues dialling in their slicer once swapping to a Micro Swiss hot end on the CR-10, do you have any general guidelines on what settings would need to be changed?

  • @0calvin
    @0calvin 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Wouldn't you also have to upgrade the firmware to allow you to set higher temperatures?

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      It's depends on if they've set the temp limit in the firmware or not. I didn't check my CR-10, but I know you can flash new firmware to these machines

    • @markburton5292
      @markburton5292 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      the cr-10 have the temp cut off at 270. so if you want to go higher then that you do need to update the firmware.

    • @davey3765
      @davey3765 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      The CR-10S tempt limit is 260c (I just checked mine and its limited to 260) I dont know how mark is able to hit 270, if you set it higher in any way it drops you immediately to 260.

  • @akkifun
    @akkifun 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Does this micro swiss hot end also attach on tevo tornado as well?

  • @banekoala8719
    @banekoala8719 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Why would someone not want the 300 degree flexible hotend? What advantage would the all metal have over it? Obviously except theoretically Temps over 300.

    • @xandersnyder7214
      @xandersnyder7214 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      BaneKoala The all metal hot end allows you to print things like nylon, metal infused pla, carbon fiber infused filament, and print flexible filaments better.
      Also, the reason this is better for abrasive filaments because of the nickle hardened nozzle. Abrasive filaments will bore out a standard brass nozzle in short order. The nickel plated nozzles last much longer under the higher heat and abrasiveness of carbon fiber, nylon, etc.
      Hope that helps!

  • @VirtuousRob
    @VirtuousRob 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    I don't know if you can help me with this, but I'm looking to buy a 3d printer for the first time and it's a lot to take in. I (think) I've settled on a CR-10 (wish I could get the S4 variant but will probably go with just the CR-10). Anyways do you know if Lightinthebox.com would be an ok site to purchase it from? Currently the Creality CR-10 is listed there for $300.

  • @Outdtdmdl
    @Outdtdmdl 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    how is that hot end working for you? have you tried any others?

  • @Zeldur
    @Zeldur 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    I upgraded my Wanhao Duplicator i3 with an all metal hot-end and it's a very worthwhile upgrade. I assume that's the same for the CR 10.

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      +Zelda's Fox exact same

    • @Deneteus
      @Deneteus 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      The i3 Upgrade doesn't have a titanium tube connecting the hot end to the heatsink. Everything else is design related.

  • @slowmoejazz
    @slowmoejazz 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey man ! Is This a good product? What material will this upgrade allow me to print with? or What kind of improvements can I get from this upgrade? and what else would I need to do for this upgrade? Thank you!

  • @android4cg
    @android4cg 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great, like to see upgrades for the famous CR-10. Would like to see MULTI-MATERIAL UPGRADE for the CR-10. .... High five!

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I believe that's coming, they are testing it!

    • @android4cg
      @android4cg 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Wow ... that's pretty cool news. Feels like pre-christmas.

  • @richardwesterfield7537
    @richardwesterfield7537 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    will the CR-10 print cabin fiber ?. i am new to 3d printing

  • @davidswe98
    @davidswe98 7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    is it easy to get metric tools and hardware in the US ?

    • @ApolloMcrib
      @ApolloMcrib 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Lerbyn yes pretty much any hardware store or automotive parts store will carry those.

    • @hed420
      @hed420 7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      The USA is made up of people from all over the world so basically you can get anything you want from a store or online unless it's illegal or a rare item . For those items you'll just have to look harder but you'll be able to get it for sure . I've seen questions like this before . For some reason people think you can only get American cheese in the US. There's more varieties of cheese there than there is anywhere in the world .
      I now live in South America and sometimes I wish I was back in the US simply because I could get things I can't get here , and if I do find it here it's usually double the price . I was looking for an Acer 34" Ultrawide computer monitor and found it here for $2.3k meanwhile in the US it only costs $1.1k. What I really wanted was an Asus 34" monitor but couldn't find it at all . I needed a new pen for my Waccom drawing tablet and oil made specifically for turbine motors and I had to wait a whole year for my brother to fly over to the US and bring it back to me . He got them off Amazon in just two days . Btw , I miss Muenster cheese and cheese made from buffalos milk. Those were my favorite .. :(

  • @leor1c513
    @leor1c513 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey Joel, don't you need to run PID on it after installing as the cool down rate is now going to be different?. And #highfive by the way

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      It's probably best practice, but, if you run it and everything looks okay, you really shouldn't need to. It's running a multi day print right now, and it's looking good :)

  • @Johkarphotos
    @Johkarphotos 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    G'day Joel.
    The kit is a nice option but I would add that you can just replace the heat break (from microswiss) for quarter of the price or a heat break/nozzle kit for a little less than half the price.
    I know, I am a cheap ass - you can just replace the PTFE in the stock break about 2000 times lol.
    Nice vid. though - microswiss make some great stuff.

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Oh, yes, plenty of more inexpensive ways to go about this, but, they asked if I could show the kit install, so I went that route.

    • @cummings66
      @cummings66 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      That's true, but what if the tubing were to melt in the middle of a big print. Now you're going to be out filiment and more importantly, time.

  • @yateslau
    @yateslau 7 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    Tutorial summary:
    1.Screw this 2.Screw that 3.Repeat 1&2 4.Done.