Found this video and very informative, I found the exact same part in Amazon and there is a tab for CR-10 Smart. Looking forward to upgrading my hotend. Very informative and straight forward!
@@EmbraceMaking The stock hotend was constantly getting blocked and heat bed adhesion was bad. I followed your video and upgraded the Bowden tube as well problem solved.
Thank you. Your video answered a question I just discovered I had. My heater block threads stripped on my CR-10smart. So I wondered how to get the thermistor out. It was stuck. Now I do.
Haha thanks 🙏 I found your video because I did the same. Dissembled while running to heat the hotend clog and touched the running fan with imbus :) so the fan blades were broken. Saw your video and thought ok then change everything :)
Bonjour et merci pour cette vidéo qui va m'aider à me décider à me lancer dans l'aventure du changement de HOTEND car le mien commence à faire des blagues (au bout d'un an ! çà va !) J'ai acheté un PRIMA CREATOR pour CR6-SE c'est l'équivalent du microswiss. Cela ne devrait pas poser plus de problèmes.
You mentioned you broke the fan blade which prompted the replacement. How did you swap the fan as it looks to be hardwired all the way through the cable management. I didn't see you perform that step.
Hi Great video,just ordered the Micro Swiss all metal hot end to do this conversion. Where do i find the stl file to print your fan shroud? with many thanks.
@@EmbraceMaking Tks ever so much i am planning on using the kit from micro swiss p/n m2601. Your previos video tells me should not be a problem. i am not sure why micro says it will not fit a cr-10smart ( a side from the the fan bracket you designed) i am going to install saturday am wish me luck again tks brian
Thank you for the superb video. I am wondering if I can ask for your advice? I’m a desperate secondary teacher in the middle of trying to print tonnes of coursework products for students. I’m the middle of this my hot end has been flooded by PETG, which I started cleaning off, but now my hot end is no longer heating up. It shows an error message of insufficient temperature. I ordered a generic replacement hotend kit, however I’m not sure if that’s going to be my full solution. Did I damage something else in the process of cleaning the nozzle/ hotend? Sorry if I sound amateur, it’s because I am. Would you be able to help me, please? Will be sending a couple of cups of coffees. Thank you, Gyorgyi
Sounds like you might want to check your thermistor and heater cartridge wires... the thermistor wires are quite small and delicate and you may have broken them so the board is not detecting a signal that represents the temperature... you may have to partially disassemble your hot end - remove the plastic cover so you can see if you ripped the wires.
My plan is to mount the Raspberry Pi in the in the enclosure and mount a BTT PITFT50 to the front panel in place of the original display. I like the way the BTT Relay V1.2 interfaces and works with the SKR Mini E3 V3.0 board. Slightly different that the original Creality implementation. I rotated the SKR mainboard for better access to the USB and SD card. I have one item to address, design and print a cable mount on the gantry. This would mount where the old daughter board was located and secure the umbilical form the gantry to the base. Re I think I am having heat creep issues with the Micro Swiss hot end. I had difficulty pulling out the filament when the hot end was at temperature. I think there is one additional item to address the stock part cooling in anemic and should be upgraded.
Great videos, thanks. I have completely overhauled my CR-10 smart printer removing all of the Creality boards. I added BTT SKR Mini E3 V3.0 mainboard, BTT Relay V1.2, BL Touch (Eliminating the Strain gauge), Micro Swiss hot end and the Bondtech LGX Lite to my CR-10 Smart. Also, moved to Klipper. Did you experience any flow difference between the stock Creality hot end and the Micro Swiss? My extruder calibration varied only slightly from the factory 5.7 and don't appear to be missing steps. However i am seeing some under extrusion in one of the flow tests. Any thoughts? Thanks
Thanks Larry, this is actually a road I am considering going down. I have recently had issues with my strain gauge and I have no interest in re-using it. I have already designed a new mount for BL / CR touch along with fan shroud etc. Just need to find some time to swap main boards or hack the original to eliminate the strain gauge. Did you make your own config files for this printer, or did you download them somewhere? Also, do you have the pinout for the harness cable? As for the extruder, honestly I don't recall any under extrusion with the new hotend and extruder, although I believe at first I had to spend a little extra time dealing with stringing. Once I got that sorted it was pretty smooth sailing... I assume you already did the PID tune for the new hot end? If I can recall I had to adjust my printing temperatures with the new hotend a bit. Maybe you need to run it a little hotter?
Hi, maybe we can work together on this. I designed mounts for the new boards, made my own configuration files and have complete schematics. I can share all. Can I email them to you?
Replaced the CR10 Smart hot end 4 months ago with the Microswiss all metal hot end - have not had a single clog issue since. Fantastic! The only issue I have occasionally is getting heat error messages when I'm printing ABS at 250. Any recomendations?
Hi Bernie, I haven't tried printing at those temperatures with my CR10 smart yet.... but perhaps its a firmware issue... not sure what Creality has set the machine limit to. What error message do you get specifically?
Hi Bought the all metal hotend, I did the installation but now I could use some more of those "compression sleeves" as you call them. (minute 7:12) Where can I find those in Europe? PLEASE HELP
You can give these guys a try... looks like Europe and UK is an option: www.reprapwarehouse.com/products/spare-4mm-brass-compression-sleeves-pack-of-5-pre-order-lead-time-may-apply
I have a quick question for ya'. We got it all installed, but we're experiencing some heat creeping up the throat of the heat break and into the nut that holds down the compression sleeve, leading the printer to clog up almost instantly and keeping us from using the printer. I saw that someone recommended a larger fan, but is there another solution for this issue? We didn't add thermal paste (despite my recommendation that we do, they want another opinion on whether or not that's the route we go).
I have only one other person email me about heat creep on this setup. What material and what print temps are you trying to achieve? Anything unusual about your process? You really shouldn't need a larger fan...
@@EmbraceMaking We're using PLA/PLA+, temperature set at 200°-215°. We've had to replace the hotend before with a regular CR-10 Smart hotend, and it worked for about a month before clogging again, cleaned it up, got it working for two-ish weeks, then it clogged up again. We've been having this issue with the CR-10 Smart exclusively. We've got multiple Ender's that've been running for months on end with little to no problems. Only with the CR-10 Smart do we have this issue. So a larger fan wouldn't do us any good then? What other suggestions would you have?
Great video! I did the Micro Swiss all metal hot end and added the larger Bondtech LGX extruder on my CR10 smart a couple of months ago, as well as a Raspberry Pi4 inside the CR10 smart, I also had to design my own parts, all part of the fun. Printing nylon at 260c I did experience heat creep so installed a larger fan, 40mm x 20mm all works great now but I have the 260c limit on the Marlin firmware. Any workaround on that? Thanks.
Friend very good video, I have a question to this printer can you install a direct extruder, there is the update of the extruder for the cr10 smart Greetings Amigo muy buen video, tengo una pregunta a esta impresora se puede instalar un extrusor dierecto , existe la actualizacion del extrusor para la cr10 smart Saludos
What’s changes did you have to make for your MS hotend, mine hasn’t seems to put out the waking prints that it used to with the original hotend. I have in 3 of my machines and I feel like they’re great at beginning but then cause issues
Cool, I’m very intrigued by the vgroove universal mount that’s on Amazon. Seems as though there are two top tapped holes that would allow for a v6 style hotend to attach to the sensor. Have you ran into any other problems with your cr10 smart? I was frustrated at first. Replaces my machine 2 due to problems out of box. But I will say, now I’m extremely happy with the machine. The abl leveling has been working wonders. And have had zero adhesion problems. Especially after microswiss hotend upgrade. Next is an in line omg all metal extruder install in stock location.
I'm facing headache on my cr10 smart.. Necer complete 1 print.. Always clogged and i clean cleaan over and over again so tired. Do u think the microswiss will solve the issue?😢
i upgraded the hot end and extruder. now my printer doesnt boot up. I tried finding a replacement tempistor sensor but didnt find the exact one. i had to go with a E3D PT100 for the probe. is that my issue?
Did you use this same hot end? And what do you mean by doesn't boot up? Like it doesn't start at all, or you get an error when you try and increase the hot end temperature?
Yes it does! PLA is pretty easy to work with in general anyways, but I find that all metal hot ends provide more consistency over time and less chance of future clogs since there is no PTFE tube in the hotend.
Hey, Im printing the adapter in PETG carbon fiber filament in my ender 3. I have a ABS temp issue on my CR10 smart, I cant get over 230 Celsius. Any Idea how I can fix this?
@@EmbraceMaking when i set to 240, the hotend wil get in the 230 range and an error will appear on the display, ab temp error. This basically stops the printer. I have tried new firmware but it did not help
I have not yet connected my CR-10 Smart to OctoPrint. Just wondering if you could share the PID autotune results so I can set the values manually. Thank you.
I have CR-10 smart and My fan is always on causing me a lot headache while printing like ABS any part with some height get warped leading to failure, any solution to that ?
@@EmbraceMaking I’m using Cura, but I’m insuring that fan is disabled, also during a print, I turn off the fan but no response. Since you mentioned the slicer, could it be something with the Gcode that overrides the fan control?
@@EmbraceMaking seems like the cooling is better and I keep having fan problems where my fan sucks I'm all the stringy filament so right now it makes a god awful sound unless I tap it a couple times
PLA at first then Nylon, and just printed it in CarbonX Nylon G3+CF. I found a workaround to the 260c temperature limit, though it would be nice to do so thru the firmware. I looked up the NTC thermistor and its good to 300c, then looked at the temperature vs resistance table and calculated that an 89 ohm resistor in series with the thermistor would do the trick. I added a switch that shorts out the 89 ohm resistor so I can choose a +40 deg. c increase or regular settings and it works great. With the switch on it shorts out the resistor and the temperature settings work as normal, with the switch open the resistor is in series with the thermocouple and gives me +40c at 260c setting so I get 300c at the hot end. If I'm printing bellow or at 260 then I use the regular settings with the switch turned on, I only use the resistor above 260c. So If I want, 260c and bellow at the hot end, turn switch on and use regular settings. 265c at the hot end I set the temperature to 241c, switch off 270c at the hot end I set the temperature to 244c, switch off 275c at the hot end I set the temperature to 247c, switch off 280c at the hot end I set the temperature to 250c, switch off 285c at the hot end I set the temperature to 233c, switch off 290c at the hot end I set the temperature to 255c, switch off 295c at the hot end I set the temperature to 257c, switch off 300c at the hot end I set the temperature to 260c, switch off I had to use two resistor values to get the 89 ohm (cheap Amazon resistors) to test it, at these temperatures its critical, I used an Agilent 34401A with 4 wire resistance mode to get it as close as possible. If you go to Digikey, Mouser or Newark electronics it's best to find a 89 ohm, 0.1% resistor for this, one is about $7, so all you need to do this is a resistor and a SPST switch or a DPDT and an LED with a current limiting resistor if you want to jazz it up a bit. Also, toggle the switch to the desired setting before turning the hot end on so the software doesn't detect a fault condition.
So i did this install finally yesterday and all seemed to be working fine but the compression sleeve seemed to crimp the bowden tube when fully tightened so much that it caused a lot of resistance when feeding the filament through. Has anyone experienced this before? Are there other connectors that can connect to the hotend fitting that doesn't use a compression sleeve?
Try using some heat... sometimes I turn the heater on and grab the block with pliers (don't burn your hands) and then use a screw driver to push the thermistor and heater element from the open end of the block. It should loosen them up but don't push them completely out with the printer on. Your printer might throw a thermal runaway error but it's not a big deal. Just shut it down and let it cool down but at least you will have loosened the parts up.
You are a life saver, saved me a ton of headache. Please keep making videos for the CR10 Smart!
You are welcome. Don't worry, more to come!
Found this video and very informative, I found the exact same part in Amazon and there is a tab for CR-10 Smart. Looking forward to upgrading my hotend. Very informative and straight forward!
Great video. Straight to the point. Thermal paste is the neat part when putting everythig together. Thank you for the tips. 😊
Glad you found it useful!
Excellent walkthrough video, solved all my printing problems. Thank you.
You're welcome! What problems were you previously having?
@@EmbraceMaking The stock hotend was constantly getting blocked and heat bed adhesion was bad. I followed your video and upgraded the Bowden tube as well problem solved.
Thank you. Your video answered a question I just discovered I had. My heater block threads stripped on my CR-10smart. So I wondered how to get the thermistor out. It was stuck. Now I do.
Haha thanks 🙏 I found your video because I did the same. Dissembled while running to heat the hotend clog and touched the running fan with imbus :) so the fan blades were broken. Saw your video and thought ok then change everything :)
Awesome, did you get it all working?
Bonjour et merci pour cette vidéo qui va m'aider à me décider à me lancer dans l'aventure du changement de HOTEND car le mien commence à faire des blagues (au bout d'un an ! çà va !)
J'ai acheté un PRIMA CREATOR pour CR6-SE c'est l'équivalent du microswiss. Cela ne devrait pas poser plus de problèmes.
You're welcome, enjoy!
Awesome Videos, I wish the CR Touch could be adapted as I feel the strain gauge leaves a lot to be desired.
That is in an upcoming video... ;)
Great video! I might change mine out but I goofed up while cleaning and broke the small black cord so Im confused on what to do.
hmm small black cord? Like one of the wires going to the hot end?
@EmbraceMaking yea the one behind the bigger red wire. Pretty sure I'll have to twist and solder it back together
Subscribed. Thanks for the content!
Thanks for the sub and glad to have you on board!
thanks for the great content. after upgrading with micro swiss, how do we get up to 300 degrees nozzle temp?
Going to have to get into firmware changes to unlock higher temps
@@EmbraceMaking any plans to make a video on how to do it soon?
You mentioned you broke the fan blade which prompted the replacement. How did you swap the fan as it looks to be hardwired all the way through the cable management. I didn't see you perform that step.
Off the top of my head I believe I had to fish the new wire and connector through the wire sheath to the daughterboard.
Hi Great video,just ordered the Micro Swiss all metal hot end to do this conversion. Where do i find the stl file to print your fan shroud? with many thanks.
Dont worry I found it. Thanks
Thanks for checking out the links :)
Great video any idea when you will put next video out on hotend and extruder together for a cr-10smart? That is my next project again tks
Already got you covered! see here: th-cam.com/video/LJT7qkvbolY/w-d-xo.html
@@EmbraceMaking Tks ever so much i am planning on using the kit from micro swiss p/n m2601. Your previos video tells me should not be a problem. i am not sure why micro says it will not fit a cr-10smart ( a side from the the fan bracket you designed) i am going to install saturday am wish me luck again tks brian
Thanks Brian, good luck!
Thank you for the superb video.
I am wondering if I can ask for your advice? I’m a desperate secondary teacher in the middle of trying to print tonnes of coursework products for students. I’m the middle of this my hot end has been flooded by PETG, which I started cleaning off, but now my hot end is no longer heating up. It shows an error message of insufficient temperature.
I ordered a generic replacement hotend kit, however I’m not sure if that’s going to be my full solution. Did I damage something else in the process of cleaning the nozzle/ hotend? Sorry if I sound amateur, it’s because I am.
Would you be able to help me, please? Will be sending a couple of cups of coffees.
Thank you, Gyorgyi
Sounds like you might want to check your thermistor and heater cartridge wires... the thermistor wires are quite small and delicate and you may have broken them so the board is not detecting a signal that represents the temperature... you may have to partially disassemble your hot end - remove the plastic cover so you can see if you ripped the wires.
My plan is to mount the Raspberry Pi in the in the enclosure and mount a BTT PITFT50 to the front panel in place of the original display. I like the way the BTT Relay V1.2 interfaces and works with the SKR Mini E3 V3.0 board. Slightly different that the original Creality implementation. I rotated the SKR mainboard for better access to the USB and SD card. I have one item to address, design and print a cable mount on the gantry. This would mount where the old daughter board was located and secure the umbilical form the gantry to the base.
Re I think I am having heat creep issues with the Micro Swiss hot end. I had difficulty pulling out the filament when the hot end was at temperature.
I think there is one additional item to address the stock part cooling in anemic and should be upgraded.
Great videos, thanks. I have completely overhauled my CR-10 smart printer removing all of the Creality boards. I added BTT SKR Mini E3 V3.0 mainboard, BTT Relay V1.2, BL Touch (Eliminating the Strain gauge), Micro Swiss hot end and the Bondtech LGX Lite to my CR-10 Smart. Also, moved to Klipper. Did you experience any flow difference between the stock Creality hot end and the Micro Swiss? My extruder calibration varied only slightly from the factory 5.7 and don't appear to be missing steps. However i am seeing some under extrusion in one of the flow tests. Any thoughts? Thanks
Thanks Larry, this is actually a road I am considering going down. I have recently had issues with my strain gauge and I have no interest in re-using it. I have already designed a new mount for BL / CR touch along with fan shroud etc. Just need to find some time to swap main boards or hack the original to eliminate the strain gauge. Did you make your own config files for this printer, or did you download them somewhere? Also, do you have the pinout for the harness cable? As for the extruder, honestly I don't recall any under extrusion with the new hotend and extruder, although I believe at first I had to spend a little extra time dealing with stringing. Once I got that sorted it was pretty smooth sailing... I assume you already did the PID tune for the new hot end? If I can recall I had to adjust my printing temperatures with the new hotend a bit. Maybe you need to run it a little hotter?
Hi, maybe we can work together on this. I designed mounts for the new boards, made my own configuration files and have complete schematics. I can share all. Can I email them to you?
Replaced the CR10 Smart hot end 4 months ago with the Microswiss all metal hot end - have not had a single clog issue since. Fantastic! The only issue I have occasionally is getting heat error messages when I'm printing ABS at 250. Any recomendations?
Hi Bernie, I haven't tried printing at those temperatures with my CR10 smart yet.... but perhaps its a firmware issue... not sure what Creality has set the machine limit to. What error message do you get specifically?
Check.the heater and the thermosta
Maybe it has been small cut
I had same error before it was a bit cut
Hi
Bought the all metal hotend, I did the installation but now I could use some more of those "compression sleeves" as you call them. (minute 7:12) Where can I find those in Europe? PLEASE HELP
You can give these guys a try... looks like Europe and UK is an option: www.reprapwarehouse.com/products/spare-4mm-brass-compression-sleeves-pack-of-5-pre-order-lead-time-may-apply
@@EmbraceMaking Thx, but sadly they advertise there prices in all currencies but do not ship to Europe. Only Canada and the US.
@@EmbraceMaking Found it on amazon.de with your info , big THX, Dirk
fan adapter if it is printed with PLA will it have a problem?
THANKS
Might be okay because the fan is constantly blowing on it... but PETG would be better ...
I have a quick question for ya'.
We got it all installed, but we're experiencing some heat creeping up the throat of the heat break and into the nut that holds down the compression sleeve, leading the printer to clog up almost instantly and keeping us from using the printer. I saw that someone recommended a larger fan, but is there another solution for this issue? We didn't add thermal paste (despite my recommendation that we do, they want another opinion on whether or not that's the route we go).
I have only one other person email me about heat creep on this setup. What material and what print temps are you trying to achieve? Anything unusual about your process? You really shouldn't need a larger fan...
@@EmbraceMaking We're using PLA/PLA+, temperature set at 200°-215°. We've had to replace the hotend before with a regular CR-10 Smart hotend, and it worked for about a month before clogging again, cleaned it up, got it working for two-ish weeks, then it clogged up again.
We've been having this issue with the CR-10 Smart exclusively. We've got multiple Ender's that've been running for months on end with little to no problems. Only with the CR-10 Smart do we have this issue.
So a larger fan wouldn't do us any good then? What other suggestions would you have?
Great video! I did the Micro Swiss all metal hot end and added the larger Bondtech LGX extruder on my CR10 smart a couple of months ago, as well as a Raspberry Pi4 inside the CR10 smart, I also had to design my own parts, all part of the fun. Printing nylon at 260c I did experience heat creep so installed a larger fan, 40mm x 20mm all works great now but I have the 260c limit on the Marlin firmware. Any workaround on that? Thanks.
Just saw your other post about your workaround, that was very creative!
Friend very good video, I have a question to this printer can you install a direct extruder, there is the update of the extruder for the cr10 smart
Greetings
Amigo muy buen video, tengo una pregunta a esta impresora se puede instalar un extrusor dierecto , existe la actualizacion del extrusor para la cr10 smart
Saludos
Already did it! See here: th-cam.com/video/LJT7qkvbolY/w-d-xo.html
What’s changes did you have to make for your MS hotend, mine hasn’t seems to put out the waking prints that it used to with the original hotend. I have in 3 of my machines and I feel like they’re great at beginning but then cause issues
Are you asking about slicer setting changes, or?
@@EmbraceMaking yup slicer settings, anything you found you had to change or fiddle around with for a bit to fine tune in?
Can the strain sensor be adapted to other hotends? Like mosquito or a groove mount hotend?
I don't see why not, you would just have to mount the new one to the strain gauge mount... should be very doable.
Cool, I’m very intrigued by the vgroove universal mount that’s on Amazon. Seems as though there are two top tapped holes that would allow for a v6 style hotend to attach to the sensor. Have you ran into any other problems with your cr10 smart? I was frustrated at first. Replaces my machine 2 due to problems out of box. But I will say, now I’m extremely happy with the machine. The abl leveling has been working wonders. And have had zero adhesion problems. Especially after microswiss hotend upgrade. Next is an in line omg all metal extruder install in stock location.
Can you make the fan adapter to fit 2 m3 nuts? so it doesnt need to make the thread?
Which thermal paste did you use for this? Great video! About to do this myself.
I have a really old jar of high temp copper based stuff from permabond ... not sure if they still sell it but it works great.
I'm facing headache on my cr10 smart..
Necer complete 1 print..
Always clogged and i clean cleaan over and over again so tired.
Do u think the microswiss will solve the issue?😢
What kind of filament are you printing with, what temperatures and speeds are you attempting? How far along in the print before it clogs?
@@EmbraceMaking i found the solution.
Tnx
i upgraded the hot end and extruder. now my printer doesnt boot up. I tried finding a replacement tempistor sensor but didnt find the exact one. i had to go with a E3D PT100 for the probe. is that my issue?
Did you use this same hot end? And what do you mean by doesn't boot up? Like it doesn't start at all, or you get an error when you try and increase the hot end temperature?
@@EmbraceMaking i bought a micro swiss full metal hot end. the screen will start but nothing happens with the creality logo.
Excellent video, congratulations, this hotend works well with PLA?
Yes it does! PLA is pretty easy to work with in general anyways, but I find that all metal hot ends provide more consistency over time and less chance of future clogs since there is no PTFE tube in the hotend.
Hey, Im printing the adapter in PETG carbon fiber filament in my ender 3. I have a ABS temp issue on my CR10 smart, I cant get over 230 Celsius. Any Idea how I can fix this?
What do you mean by you can't get over 230? You are able to set the temp to lets say, 240 on the screen but the temp just never reaches it?
@@EmbraceMaking when i set to 240, the hotend wil get in the 230 range and an error will appear on the display, ab temp error. This basically stops the printer. I have tried new firmware but it did not help
I have not yet connected my CR-10 Smart to OctoPrint. Just wondering if you could share the PID autotune results so I can set the values manually. Thank you.
I have CR-10 smart and My fan is always on causing me a lot headache while printing like ABS any part with some height get warped leading to failure, any solution to that ?
Your part cooling fan is always on? If that's the case it will be driven by your slicer settings. What slicer are you using?
@@EmbraceMaking I’m using Cura, but I’m insuring that fan is disabled, also during a print, I turn off the fan but no response.
Since you mentioned the slicer, could it be something with the Gcode that overrides the fan control?
Hi, Can this go up to 300 degrees once installed?
I wonder Strain touch is posible cahnge pursa bl touch cr 10 smart :D ?
Hi Mustafa, are you asking if it is possible to change from the strain gauge sensor to bl touch?
@@EmbraceMaking yeap Maybe posible :) Bl pursa touch
Hi mate, have you uploaded the latest firmware yet? Des the autotune work on it? Good vid thanks
Not yet! Still keeping an eye on the discussion on Discord to see what people's experiences have been before messing with something I have working!
@@EmbraceMaking haha can't blame you !
is it possible to use the sprite direct drive in this cr10 printer?
Perhaps! I haven't looked too closely at it though... does the sprite have the strain gauge sensor built in?
How can I use the CR10 Smart to print the carbon fiber filament (High temperature) ?
I need a replacement fan where I get it
Part cooling fan or extruder heat sink fan?
Could I use the smart hot end full kit on a cr-10s?
Might be able to if you can swap over the entire metal carriage... why do you want to do that?
@@EmbraceMaking seems like the cooling is better and I keep having fan problems where my fan sucks I'm all the stringy filament so right now it makes a god awful sound unless I tap it a couple times
What material did you print the fan shroud from? Thank you.
PLA at first then Nylon, and just printed it in CarbonX Nylon G3+CF.
I found a workaround to the 260c temperature limit, though it would be nice to do so thru the firmware. I looked up the NTC thermistor and its good to 300c, then looked at the temperature vs resistance table and calculated that an 89 ohm resistor in series with the thermistor would do the trick. I added a switch that shorts out the 89 ohm resistor so I can choose a +40 deg. c increase or regular settings and it works great. With the switch on it shorts out the resistor and the temperature settings work as normal, with the switch open the resistor is in series with the thermocouple and gives me +40c at 260c setting so I get 300c at the hot end. If I'm printing bellow or at 260 then I use the regular settings with the switch turned on, I only use the resistor above 260c.
So If I want,
260c and bellow at the hot end, turn switch on and use regular settings.
265c at the hot end I set the temperature to 241c, switch off
270c at the hot end I set the temperature to 244c, switch off
275c at the hot end I set the temperature to 247c, switch off
280c at the hot end I set the temperature to 250c, switch off
285c at the hot end I set the temperature to 233c, switch off
290c at the hot end I set the temperature to 255c, switch off
295c at the hot end I set the temperature to 257c, switch off
300c at the hot end I set the temperature to 260c, switch off
I had to use two resistor values to get the 89 ohm (cheap Amazon resistors) to test it, at these temperatures its critical, I used an Agilent 34401A with 4 wire resistance mode to get it as close as possible. If you go to Digikey, Mouser or Newark electronics it's best to find a 89 ohm, 0.1% resistor for this, one is about $7, so all you need to do this is a resistor and a SPST switch or a DPDT and an LED with a current limiting resistor if you want to jazz it up a bit. Also, toggle the switch to the desired setting before turning the hot end on so the software doesn't detect a fault condition.
Filaments.ca carbon fiber PETG , prints really nice and smooth!
That's a very creative hack to beat the temp limit without access to firmware, very nice!
thank you
You're welcome!
@@EmbraceMaking You saved me a lot of time! Tell me if you want one of my water revitalisation invention
cheers
So i did this install finally yesterday and all seemed to be working fine but the compression sleeve seemed to crimp the bowden tube when fully tightened so much that it caused a lot of resistance when feeding the filament through. Has anyone experienced this before? Are there other connectors that can connect to the hotend fitting that doesn't use a compression sleeve?
Still clogged probably
My Z is too high now after adding Micro Swiss hot end. I've auto leveled and still no change.
How much higher? Is it just printing slightly off the print bed, or ?
My thermistor is stuck. I can't push it like you did :-(
Try using some heat... sometimes I turn the heater on and grab the block with pliers (don't burn your hands) and then use a screw driver to push the thermistor and heater element from the open end of the block. It should loosen them up but don't push them completely out with the printer on. Your printer might throw a thermal runaway error but it's not a big deal. Just shut it down and let it cool down but at least you will have loosened the parts up.
@@EmbraceMaking I tried heating but it's probably melted there. Ordered a replacement. Wil be delaying miscroswiss conversion :D
I dont have these screws in the middle of the heatblok euhm what i do then like 0 clue
had the same thing happen. I was like What?!?!? Turs out it was just installed backwards. I undid the 2 screws at the top, flipped it, good to go.