Dude you’re the GOAT for this! I did a big turbo install late last night and that thing popped out... it was missing the clip and couldn’t figure out how to reinstall it. Coolant everywhere, car overheated. But it’s safe.
Thanks for this video. Really helped - replacing this sensor solved the false overheat issue. I would add one note. DO NOT get this part from Advanced auto/ Autozone - the sensor that they sell (as a third party replacement for the oem) DOES NOT fit. The ONLY part that works is the OEM from a dealership - which can be had for around $20.
I had the same issue with a non-oem. Turns out the online fitment guided me to an older sensor that is a little too big. The parts store replied that "The correct part for the year 2012 ford focus is Standard Motor Products TX104 " as an alternative to OEM, but I had already gotten the fomoco one at a local dealership. Might help someone else.
Thanks for the excellent information. I am leaving to get the new sensor now. I think I know why Ford does it that way. They want you to take the car to a dealer. I met a guy once whose son was an engineer for either Mercedes or BMW. He said they got bad feedback from dealers if small repairs were "too easy". They then would re-design it to make it harder. This included designing in company specific tools for say, brake pad changes.
I’m having the same issue! I replaces starter $230 I replaced the negative battery cable $75, replaced 3 relays one for ignition one for starter and another one for the ecm. That was about $60. Also lost time at work went to lunch wouldn’t start for well over an hr. Starts fine cold but when I drive it and turn off and go to start again nothing. Oh the battery is good and also would not start with jumpers on it. So WTF! I wonder if I got to change this? Would this cause the car not to stop starting when hot after running? I have no engine lights on or high temp lights on.
When the car gets to hot it won't start. It's protecting it from over heating. I can't say to you to replace it but I would. I already spent a lot of money. This part only caused a few dollars and it is easy to replace.
It’s the transmission control module TCM turned out that it was a known problem by Ford engineers and the CEO said sell em anyways. I went to junkyard got it put it in and drive it to dealership and traded it in
Having this same problem ... glad I found this video. Would be very helpful if we could have seen from the beginning what you did and how you uninstalled and installed the new one but still very helpful on what to do. Thanks for the video help.
Hello there. I have the same car but my problem it's the fan's don't get on at 205 temperature & the gauge still at half way .don't show it's overheating but my spansion tank it's overflow & liking!! What can be??
@@NoneMechanic101 21 miles? Does that work? Temp is still saying super hot, and being stuck in safe mode, it only goes 1 mph when driving. Having codes reset in a.m., do u think that will work?
My car is doing the exact opposite and showing the car is all the way on cold even though the engine isn't cold. I've checked all the other potential problems and everything seems good. Think it's the same issue as you?
How would I know if its the sensor messing up, or the control fan module? I've been having an issue with the temp rising if I'm sitting somewhere for about 30 minutes, but when I turn the car off and let it "cool" for about 10 minutes and turn it over, the temp gauge is back in the middle where it usually is. My radiator runs a good bit, someone at a dealership I took my car to for an inspection told me that they think it's probably the control fan module but they still aren't sure. Thanks for the video though, I will probably try this and see if it helps soon.
It can be a few things why a coolant temperature sensor can be bad. 1. Overheating 2. Poor idling 3. Poor fuel economy. Of course these are only a few things.
I was driving home, got about 10 min away from work and my cold A/C air and the temp gauge stopped working at the same time. Still blows air just not cold. My gauge is saying its cold like it wont go up at all. I went to O'rileys and ran the engine light that came on after turning the car off. It was P0118 High Voltage to the ECT. After leaving O'rileys, my car was fine for maybe a minute or 2 then kind of made a bog noise and A/C stopped blowing cold and my temp gauge fell back down. Ordered the part 33$ from O'Rileys it comes in the AM. Ill update what happens. I just got a Sub and Amp installed a week ago, could it be related? Why would A/C stop also? Is it cuz the car is freaking out and stopping it on purpose? Appreciate the video brother. 2012 F Focus SE Hatch
It sound like the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is bad. Do you have coolant in the Coolant jug? Did the car got over heated? I would check the belt. I would also check if the fan is working
@@NoneMechanic101 Coolant was in the jug, It was MAYBE a centimeter or 2 low, So I filled it just before max line. The fans are working and the car never overheated. I don't think it even overheats when the gauge stops working. I'm betting on changing that ECT will make the A/C stop getting mad. I drove to work this morning and car was normal but with engine light for about 15 minutes then gauge and cold air stopped at same time again. I finally located the ECT thanks to your video but now I have no idea how I will get a wrench in there to torque it in place.
ok guys, got it fixed. I didnt have to remove anything to reach it, i just had to come in from the back side and lean all the way over my hood. The little clip he shows is literally the only thing holding it in. I never saw the clip with my eyes but somehow felt it and it very easily pushed down towards the ground and off the ECT sensor. The stock ECT didnt have the little tiny pin push to disconnect the wire (Which is wrapped in silver tinfoil heat stuff that helped me see where it went) it was much larger and i could push the disconnect with my thumb. BUT I couldnt do it from the angle I was at so I just pulled the ECT out and let the fluid fall into a bucket. I pulled the wire up towards me to disconnect it from the ECT then connected the new one and felt for the hole leaking fluid and pushed it back in. (I messed up right here by putting that silver clip onto the wrong part instead of in the gap its intended to go into so I turned car on everything looked good, drove on HWY for 2 miles got to orileys to have them clear my engine light and noticed when i parked my car it was smoking A LOT, i figured it was excess fluid from leaking earlier but NOPE my entire sensor was just hanging there and my fluid was empty so it all pissed out of the hole but luckily the clip was still there so i waited until it cooled down, reinserted the ECTS then put the clip in correct spot, filled my fluid, and boom all fixed) Thanks for the amazing vid my man. If any one has Q lemme know ill help if I can
I had a problem today. I was driving and high temp warning stop safely message came on. Is this why you decided to change this part? What made you want to change it as well?
Rudy Espinoza Rudy, I have a 2013 SE and same thing. I have been watching these videos and some people say to change the fan resistor and some of them are advocating this sensor and even others say to replace the thermostat. Mine is warming up normally according to the gauge but the heat seems like it runs cold for a while. Once I'm driving around and the engine should be at normal temperature the heat still blows cold intermittently then it will blow hot. Every once in awhile the same message that you have comes up and it says the engine is overheating and when I look at the gauge it is pegged. If I keep driving for a while it goes back down. It will do this on and off while I'm driving. It just started happening couple of days ago, but from what I can tell it has not happened while I've been on the interstate doing high speed. I don't know if that's because the cold air is blowing in so fast and keeping it cool? Anyway I took it to the dealer reluctantly and they just told me I need to get my head gasket replaced for $2,200. I think I'm going to pick it up and try a couple of these things before I accept that. For that price I might as well buy a new engine. Can you get back to me and tell me what you ended up doing? I would appreciate it and you might be able to save me some time and money
Marco same exact thing happened but the coolant reservoir was empty. I refilled the coolant to Min level and was able to drive around but message popped up and coolant was very low. So, I probably have an actual loose connection or broken hose?
I bet you don’t have the focus anymore I’m having trouble taking off fuel pressure sensor b off the fuel line which is easy to locate I’m just afraid of the gas line warping but there are no videos on its replacement
NoneMechanic101 my 2016 Focus se is stalling out after I drive for 3 hours or more I’ve changed both of the fuel sensors, high pressure fuel pump all salvaged still will stall out mid drive which is extra scary since my girl drives it more than me I’m looking to change the fuel filter next but the code that pops up constantly is p0087 it drives fine after sitting for a bit then after a 3 or more hours it will just loose throttle control then the engine will die I’ve take it to an mechanic and they differed me to the dealer and both can’t fined the problem with my car
The same thing is happening to mine but I don't know if it's really actually running hot or not it has not overheated or started smoking but I didn't wait too long to try and find out. So how can I find out if it's truly running hot not just a faulty sensor
Hey I know you don't have the car anymore but how much coolant did you lose when you switched it out? I don't want to drain mine either as I just did when I changed the thermostat. I'll probably just put some plastic bags below the sensor to protect what's under it as best I can.
The part that all the hoses that the thermostat sensor connects to what is that called. It is mounted on the side of the engine and that's where I have a leak and don't know if it's a gasket or do I need to replace that part
My car shows the temperature hot, I ready change all the sensors and the thermostat. But it still showing the light. And it doesn't accelerate. I don't know what else to do. It's a 2013 Ford fusión se 1.6L. I hope that you can help me
My 2012 Ford Focus transmission is overheating shows on the screen 📺 ( stop Safely waiting 5 minute ) please how can I get rid of this is like a pain in the ass ??
Hi, thanks for the video. Why when I look for the part number to order the sensor it shows me also a sensor that goes in the radiator (2 types of sensors). Great video!
It started fine but then if you keep it you have to bring to ford to recalibrate the TCM. I spent almost $500 on new parts then realized it was the TCM. The TCM tells the car computer that the car is in park and safe to start. When it happens not to start look to see on the dash if the car is in D (drive) or P (park). Ford has a recall on the TCM if the car has under 150,000 miles. And when I had my issue they were on 30,000 back order. So I would have been without a car until then. So that’s why I went to junkyard and got one out of another car but it shifted weird. I also reset the transmission for the video on TH-cam but it didn’t help the shifting.
The car wasn't over heating. Just the cage was showing that the car was warmed after about 20 second. About the over heating in your car. Make sure you have 1.Make sure the car has coolant 2.See if the car is leaking coolant 3.Check the radiator holes. 4.Check the coolant jug. And of course use safety. Wait for the car to be cold. Let me know what happened. Good luck.
2013 ford focus.... And I have an issue were my coolant resivour... Bubbles and leaks really bad.. but doesn't over heat on the needle?? Just wondering why it bubbles and loses coolant ... Kinda think of a stick thermostat?? Can any one give me advice on why it bubbles and leaks ... Thanks
There was another video I saw wear a person change it the coolant sensor on top of the engine and he tried to replace the one you are changing without a screw he got that completely wrong what putting the wrong item without even looking at it I did explain to him where the other one went
It would be nice if I could just slid it in but not only me but a buddy of mine was pushing on it still can't get it in I even got all the fluid out still can't get it in so I'm at a lost cause
No the temp sensor I got that was from advance auto for my car the o ring was to big I shaved it do enough that it slid in but with little force hooked everything back up and cleared the code and it is fixed
You are absolutely correct! A code should have come on but in this situation it didn't. I changed the sensor and it corrected the problem. Also on a 2012 Ford Focus the codes are p0116, p0117, p0118, and p0119
My situation is the following: when temperature rises to 90 degrees, the instrumental panel shows malfunction, then the arrow falls back to zero degrees and fan (ventilator) starts working hard. When I connect computer, it gives error p0189 - coolant temperature sensor malfunction. The worst thing is I can't find the sensor to replace it - where can it be???
Hey man thanks, warning lightf went on once before 3-4 months ago then twice this morning. Been mechanical all my life, but this new fangled stuff with sealed cooling systems is baffling my already fried egg. It's my wife's car, and I was already thinking it was a sensor cuz that all vehicles are nowadays are computer and gadgets. Lemme ask maybe a stupid question: if you have to drain the coolant where do you drain it from and more importantly where do I refill It? Thank you brother. Be blessed!
Hey my friend. There's no such thing as a stupid question. First, you refill it on the cooling reservoir. You don't refill it on the radiator because it doesn't have a radiator cap. Second, to drain it. You have to removed the splash shield that's under the car. And look for a plastic drain under the radiator. I don't remember if is white or red. Use SAFETY. Make sure the car is COLD.I hope this helps.
NoneMechanic101 honestly bro. I don't remember seeing a cooling reservoir. Oh man do I feel stupid!! I searched that engine compartment for 15 minutes minimum. Goodness me, I may just have to apologize for this. I was probably staring at it for 14 minutes. LOL! That's why I was so dumbfounded! I couldn't imagine a automotive engine with a completely sealed cooling system where there is never a need to add coolant. Truthfully, I've had many arguments with my greatest debater (me), over this vary subject.
NoneMechanic101- brother, it was right where they left It! LOL. It's been a baaaaaad week! I took care of the Focus added some water checked everything else ran it on idle 10 min., 35-45 min. Full air on, followed her home on the bumper to bumper SoCal 25-35mph traffic 45min. Ran perfect. 75 yards from the driveway, my 97 Dodge Ram 1500 just dies. At least the truck is a little more basic. I believe it's the fuel system, and a dead battery. I think, and hope and pray! Man, I really appriciate you and your offering and sharing your knowledge with us/me. The TH-cam community is pretty right on! I've found very few egos, just a lot of folks only interested in sharing their experience and knowledge and paying it forward. You, my brother is at the top of the Totem Pole! Thank you, God Bless you and yours forever and ever, Amen
This Man Is Thee Best Mechanic And Helps Everyone.... Highly-qualified..
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Thank you! Big Bob
Dude you’re the GOAT for this! I did a big turbo install late last night and that thing popped out... it was missing the clip and couldn’t figure out how to reinstall it. Coolant everywhere, car overheated. But it’s safe.
I looked all over the engine an couldn't find it...Great video, Thanks man
Very welcome!
Thanks for this video. Really helped - replacing this sensor solved the false overheat issue. I would add one note. DO NOT get this part from Advanced auto/ Autozone - the sensor that they sell (as a third party replacement for the oem) DOES NOT fit. The ONLY part that works is the OEM from a dealership - which can be had for around $20.
Thank you for the information. Also thank you for watching.
Ed Doty did it come with the retaining clip?
I had the same issue with a non-oem. Turns out the online fitment guided me to an older sensor that is a little too big. The parts store replied that "The correct part for the year 2012 ford focus is Standard Motor Products TX104 " as an alternative to OEM, but I had already gotten the fomoco one at a local dealership. Might help someone else.
Hey bro I just bought the part from auto zone and like you said it doesn't fit how would I go about getting one that fits
Thanks for the excellent information. I am leaving to get the new sensor now.
I think I know why Ford does it that way. They want you to take the car to a dealer. I met a guy once whose son was an engineer for either Mercedes or BMW. He said they got bad feedback from dealers if small repairs were "too easy". They then would re-design it to make it harder. This included designing in company specific tools for say, brake pad changes.
In some car now you need a special tool to compress the pistons.
I’m having the same issue! I replaces starter $230 I replaced the negative battery cable $75, replaced 3 relays one for ignition one for starter and another one for the ecm. That was about $60. Also lost time at work went to lunch wouldn’t start for well over an hr. Starts fine cold but when I drive it and turn off and go to start again nothing. Oh the battery is good and also would not start with jumpers on it. So WTF!
I wonder if I got to change this? Would this cause the car not to stop starting when hot after running? I have no engine lights on or high temp lights on.
When the car gets to hot it won't start. It's protecting it from over heating. I can't say to you to replace it but I would. I already spent a lot of money. This part only caused a few dollars and it is easy to replace.
U ever find out the problem I’m having the same problem
It’s the transmission control module TCM turned out that it was a known problem by Ford engineers and the CEO said sell em anyways.
I went to junkyard got it put it in and drive it to dealership and traded it in
@@Buggen-Out-Yo did it start up fine after that?
Having this same problem ... glad I found this video. Would be very helpful if we could have seen from the beginning what you did and how you uninstalled and installed the new one but still very helpful on what to do. Thanks for the video help.
Im glad i was able to help.
Mine just started acting up.Thanks for this info.
You are welcome
Would it b same for 2011 ford fusion 3.0 ? nothing on utube, tryed seraching
I'm not sure but you can easily see if it is. Make sure the car is cold.
thank you
@@jaygar1299 👍
Hello there. I have the same car but my problem it's the fan's don't get on at 205 temperature & the gauge still at half way .don't show it's overheating but my spansion tank it's overflow & liking!! What can be??
I would check the spansion tank top. Many time the top is the problem
Did you fix??
How did you remove the sensor? Did you go under the car below the splash guard? I don't see where you'd get leverage on the clip to remove the sensor
I when from the top. I removed the clip and I pulled the sensor. I made sure the car was cold
Thanks for the vid. My 2012 se sensor just failed.
You are welcome.
Was the check engine light on or was there a code? 🤔
But how did you get the code to go away? Will it go away if I run it for a while. Mine is stuck in safe or limp mode
You can run the car for about 21 miles or go to AutoZone for they can erase the code.
@@NoneMechanic101 21 miles? Does that work? Temp is still saying super hot, and being stuck in safe mode, it only goes 1 mph when driving. Having codes reset in a.m., do u think that will work?
@@kathihahner5533 You may have another problem. I would Check the coolant jug cap, hoses, especially the hoses on the fire wall.
@@NoneMechanic101 they reset it this a.m., all is good. Thanks for the online video, and replies
@@kathihahner5533 I'm glad everything when well👊👊
My car is doing the exact opposite and showing the car is all the way on cold even though the engine isn't cold. I've checked all the other potential problems and everything seems good. Think it's the same issue as you?
I don't remember if this car has a coolant temperature SWITCH but if it does I would check that first.
My car is doing the same
Did you ever figure out how to fix it
Old video but could either be the sensor, thermostat stuck open
So i changed my coolant sensor but when i cut on the car it wouldn't crank did i mess up the procedure somehow?
This sounds like something else
How would I know if its the sensor messing up, or the control fan module? I've been having an issue with the temp rising if I'm sitting somewhere for about 30 minutes, but when I turn the car off and let it "cool" for about 10 minutes and turn it over, the temp gauge is back in the middle where it usually is. My radiator runs a good bit, someone at a dealership I took my car to for an inspection told me that they think it's probably the control fan module but they still aren't sure. Thanks for the video though, I will probably try this and see if it helps soon.
It can be a few things why a coolant temperature sensor can be bad. 1. Overheating 2. Poor idling 3. Poor fuel economy. Of course these are only a few things.
NAh it's the sensor the sensor controls how and when the fan needs to run..
Would it be the same ford a 2011 ford fusion 2.5L
Not sure but when the car is cold you can take a look.
I was driving home, got about 10 min away from work and my cold A/C air and the temp gauge stopped working at the same time. Still blows air just not cold. My gauge is saying its cold like it wont go up at all. I went to O'rileys and ran the engine light that came on after turning the car off. It was P0118 High Voltage to the ECT. After leaving O'rileys, my car was fine for maybe a minute or 2 then kind of made a bog noise and A/C stopped blowing cold and my temp gauge fell back down. Ordered the part 33$ from O'Rileys it comes in the AM. Ill update what happens.
I just got a Sub and Amp installed a week ago, could it be related?
Why would A/C stop also? Is it cuz the car is freaking out and stopping it on purpose?
Appreciate the video brother.
2012 F Focus SE Hatch
It sound like the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is bad. Do you have coolant in the Coolant jug? Did the car got over heated? I would check the belt. I would also check if the fan is working
@@NoneMechanic101 Coolant was in the jug, It was MAYBE a centimeter or 2 low, So I filled it just before max line. The fans are working and the car never overheated. I don't think it even overheats when the gauge stops working. I'm betting on changing that ECT will make the A/C stop getting mad. I drove to work this morning and car was normal but with engine light for about 15 minutes then gauge and cold air stopped at same time again. I finally located the ECT thanks to your video but now I have no idea how I will get a wrench in there to torque it in place.
ok guys, got it fixed.
I didnt have to remove anything to reach it, i just had to come in from the back side and lean all the way over my hood.
The little clip he shows is literally the only thing holding it in. I never saw the clip with my eyes but somehow felt it and it very easily pushed down towards the ground and off the ECT sensor. The stock ECT didnt have the little tiny pin push to disconnect the wire (Which is wrapped in silver tinfoil heat stuff that helped me see where it went) it was much larger and i could push the disconnect with my thumb. BUT I couldnt do it from the angle I was at so I just pulled the ECT out and let the fluid fall into a bucket. I pulled the wire up towards me to disconnect it from the ECT then connected the new one and felt for the hole leaking fluid and pushed it back in. (I messed up right here by putting that silver clip onto the wrong part instead of in the gap its intended to go into so I turned car on everything looked good, drove on HWY for 2 miles got to orileys to have them clear my engine light and noticed when i parked my car it was smoking A LOT, i figured it was excess fluid from leaking earlier but NOPE my entire sensor was just hanging there and my fluid was empty so it all pissed out of the hole but luckily the clip was still there so i waited until it cooled down, reinserted the ECTS then put the clip in correct spot, filled my fluid, and boom all fixed)
Thanks for the amazing vid my man.
If any one has Q lemme know ill help if I can
@@kmeyer5458 I'm glad it worked out. Thank you very much for watching
K Meyer where did you get the part? I see some saying to only get from the dealer? Thanks
I had a problem today. I was driving and high temp warning stop safely message came on. Is this why you decided to change this part? What made you want to change it as well?
Rudy Espinoza Rudy, I have a 2013 SE and same thing. I have been watching these videos and some people say to change the fan resistor and some of them are advocating this sensor and even others say to replace the thermostat. Mine is warming up normally according to the gauge but the heat seems like it runs cold for a while. Once I'm driving around and the engine should be at normal temperature the heat still blows cold intermittently then it will blow hot. Every once in awhile the same message that you have comes up and it says the engine is overheating and when I look at the gauge it is pegged. If I keep driving for a while it goes back down. It will do this on and off while I'm driving. It just started happening couple of days ago, but from what I can tell it has not happened while I've been on the interstate doing high speed. I don't know if that's because the cold air is blowing in so fast and keeping it cool? Anyway I took it to the dealer reluctantly and they just told me I need to get my head gasket replaced for $2,200. I think I'm going to pick it up and try a couple of these things before I accept that. For that price I might as well buy a new engine. Can you get back to me and tell me what you ended up doing? I would appreciate it and you might be able to save me some time and money
Marco same exact thing happened but the coolant reservoir was empty. I refilled the coolant to Min level and was able to drive around but message popped up and coolant was very low. So, I probably have an actual loose connection or broken hose?
ExoticCarsGalore that’s what is happening to my 2014 Ford Focus titanium.. did you get the problem solved???
I bet you don’t have the focus anymore I’m having trouble taking off fuel pressure sensor b off the fuel line which is easy to locate I’m just afraid of the gas line warping but there are no videos on its replacement
I don't have the Ford Focus but I have the repair manual to it. How can I be of help?
NoneMechanic101 my 2016 Focus se is stalling out after I drive for 3 hours or more I’ve changed both of the fuel sensors, high pressure fuel pump all salvaged still will stall out mid drive which is extra scary since my girl drives it more than me I’m looking to change the fuel filter next but the code that pops up constantly is p0087 it drives fine after sitting for a bit then after a 3 or more hours it will just loose throttle control then the engine will die I’ve take it to an mechanic and they differed me to the dealer and both can’t fined the problem with my car
The same thing is happening to mine but I don't know if it's really actually running hot or not it has not overheated or started smoking but I didn't wait too long to try and find out. So how can I find out if it's truly running hot not just a faulty sensor
If your car is over heating is one. Also if you have the engine code on.
Hey man i have a ford focus mk1 2004 1.6 16v. Do you know where i can find the coolant sensor?
I'm not sure but I'm going to see if I can find out for you. Check in the engine. Make sure the car is cold
Under Rocker cover
Hey I know you don't have the car anymore but how much coolant did you lose when you switched it out? I don't want to drain mine either as I just did when I changed the thermostat. I'll probably just put some plastic bags below the sensor to protect what's under it as best I can.
Only about an half of spoon. You have to be quick. Make sure the car is colld. Also what I would do it ,when I haven't driving the car for a few hours
very little amount gets lost as long you don't take too long to do the swap
hey dudes someone know how many ohms has a newbrand temperature sensor for focus 2012?
@@miguelsarmiento534 sorry not sure
@@NoneMechanic101 thank you
The part that all the hoses that the thermostat sensor connects to what is that called. It is mounted on the side of the engine and that's where I have a leak and don't know if it's a gasket or do I need to replace that part
I can't you send me a picture of the part you are describing. Email Nonemechanic101@yahoo.com
I know this is really late but if anyone reads this comment in the future, the part you are asking about is the water outlet.
My car shows the temperature hot, I ready change all the sensors and the thermostat. But it still showing the light. And it doesn't accelerate. I don't know what else to do. It's a 2013 Ford fusión se 1.6L. I hope that you can help me
Did you check the fuses?
I got to the sensor after having to fight with the cable for 2 hours but now I can't get the coolant sensor off
The sensor has a clip that it most be taken off, Once you take it off. The sensor just push in and push out.
My 2012 Ford Focus transmission is overheating shows on the screen 📺 ( stop Safely waiting 5 minute ) please how can I get rid of this is like a pain in the ass ??
Do you have any codes?
works very good same sensor CTS push and clip, ford mondeo 2004 v6! CHEERS BRO
Glad it helped
Hi, thanks for the video. Why when I look for the part number to order the sensor it shows me also a sensor that goes in the radiator (2 types of sensors). Great video!
Sorry, I forgot to mention I have a 2013 Ford Focus.
The best place to get the part is at the dealer
hello my fiesta 2012 have a code 0164...this is my problem???
It started fine but then if you keep it you have to bring to ford to recalibrate the TCM. I spent almost $500 on new parts then realized it was the TCM. The TCM tells the car computer that the car is in park and safe to start. When it happens not to start look to see on the dash if the car is in D (drive) or P (park). Ford has a recall on the TCM if the car has under 150,000 miles. And when I had my issue they were on 30,000 back order. So I would have been without a car until then. So that’s why I went to junkyard and got one out of another car but it shifted weird. I also reset the transmission for the video on TH-cam but it didn’t help the shifting.
Thank you
The car wasn't over heating. Just the cage was showing that the car was warmed after about 20 second. About the over heating in your car. Make sure you have 1.Make sure the car has coolant 2.See if the car is leaking coolant 3.Check the radiator holes. 4.Check the coolant jug. And of course use safety. Wait for the car to be cold. Let me know what happened. Good luck.
2013 ford focus.... And I have an issue were my coolant resivour... Bubbles and leaks really bad.. but doesn't over heat on the needle?? Just wondering why it bubbles and loses coolant ... Kinda think of a stick thermostat?? Can any one give me advice on why it bubbles and leaks ... Thanks
My car is leaking all the water from that same area under the covered part to the left at 4:00
Make sure the car isn't hot while working on it
@@NoneMechanic101 this is the part tho right? Thanks fir the fast reply
@@rickyxavier4068 This is the part for my 2012 Ford Focus
There was another video I saw wear a person change it the coolant sensor on top of the engine and he tried to replace the one you are changing without a screw he got that completely wrong what putting the wrong item without even looking at it I did explain to him where the other one went
How did it go?
So when it says it was overheating would your car still start up? Like we’re you able to drive it or did it shut down?
It depends. In some cars it would start but in other ones when it's hot it won't start
my car overheats when I turn on the heater.i changed the radiator and coolant is full
I have a 2012 Ford focus please help
It may have air in the system
It would be nice if I could just slid it in but not only me but a buddy of mine was pushing on it still can't get it in I even got all the fluid out still can't get it in so I'm at a lost cause
Make sure the engine is cold. You should be able to push it in.
No the temp sensor I got that was from advance auto for my car the o ring was to big I shaved it do enough that it slid in but with little force hooked everything back up and cleared the code and it is fixed
Good job. Thank you for watching!
How many miles were on the car when this happened?
About 150,000 miles. Thank you for watching!
If that sensor is bad should there be a code or check engine light on? 🤔
Yes
I have a Ford focus SE 2010 2.0 petrol but I can't find the sensor . Who knows where he might be?
I'm not really sure but the first thing I would do is check around the engine block
what could be wrong with him ? it gives an error Р0189 sensor malfunction coolant...
You are absolutely correct! A code should have come on but in this situation it didn't. I changed the sensor and it corrected the problem. Also on a 2012 Ford Focus the codes are p0116, p0117, p0118, and p0119
My situation is the following: when temperature rises to 90 degrees, the instrumental panel shows malfunction, then the arrow falls back to zero degrees and fan (ventilator) starts working hard. When I connect computer, it gives error p0189 - coolant temperature sensor malfunction. The worst thing is I can't find the sensor to replace it - where can it be???
Thanks for this! My only problem is I can’t find any cooling sensor that looks like that for some reason 😞
The Auto store should be able to help you out. You don't have to purchase the part from them.
But the TCM ISSUE I think was for 2013-2015 ford focus and fiesta’s.
Thank you
Why is it saying my transmission overheating
Do you have a engine code?
Hey man thanks, warning lightf went on once before 3-4 months ago then twice this morning. Been mechanical all my life, but this new fangled stuff with sealed cooling systems is baffling my already fried egg. It's my wife's car, and I was already thinking it was a sensor cuz that all vehicles are nowadays are computer and gadgets. Lemme ask maybe a stupid question: if you have to drain the coolant where do you drain it from and more importantly where do I refill It?
Thank you brother.
Be blessed!
Hey my friend. There's no such thing as a stupid question. First, you refill it on the cooling reservoir. You don't refill it on the radiator because it doesn't have a radiator cap. Second, to drain it. You have to removed the splash shield that's under the car. And look for a plastic drain under the radiator. I don't remember if is white or red. Use SAFETY. Make sure the car is COLD.I hope this helps.
NoneMechanic101 honestly bro. I don't remember seeing a cooling reservoir. Oh man do I feel stupid!! I searched that engine compartment for 15 minutes minimum. Goodness me, I may just have to apologize for this. I was probably staring at it for 14 minutes. LOL! That's why I was so dumbfounded! I couldn't imagine a automotive engine with a completely sealed cooling system where there is never a need to add coolant. Truthfully, I've had many arguments with my greatest debater (me), over this vary subject.
Do you know where is at ? If not i will try to do a video for you.
NoneMechanic101- brother, it was right where they left It! LOL. It's been a baaaaaad week! I took care of the Focus added some water checked everything else ran it on idle 10 min., 35-45 min. Full air on, followed her home on the bumper to bumper SoCal 25-35mph traffic 45min. Ran perfect. 75 yards from the driveway, my 97 Dodge Ram 1500 just dies. At least the truck is a little more basic. I believe it's the fuel system, and a dead battery. I think, and hope and pray!
Man, I really appriciate you and your offering and sharing your knowledge with us/me.
The TH-cam community is pretty right on! I've found very few egos, just a lot of folks only interested in sharing their experience and knowledge and paying it forward. You, my brother is at the top of the Totem Pole!
Thank you, God Bless you and yours forever and ever,
Amen
Amen
Leave it to Ford to make little stuff super difficult. I'll stick to Honda.
I got me my first Honda. It has a lot of miles on it but it's still running🔧
Thanks for the video really helps
You are welcome. Thank you for watching. I appreciate it.
You’re the man. Thank you
Thank you
i have a 2013 engine and the sensor is on top of the engine between the spark plugs much easier
Thank you for the information. Now I know if I ever work on a 2013 where to look for it. Thank you for watching.
tincanboat please show me were the sensor iis please... I have a 2013 gauge is showing max temp
Thanks a lot bro👍👍
You're so very welcome👍🔧
NOT bad would of been better if you would of showed actual replacement
Sorry about that
Thanyou my friend good video
Thank You👍🔧
It would have been nice if you showed me on your dashboard when you're running your car to see what's the difference
You are right. I should have shown the difference. I forgot.
Preciate it
You're welcome🔧
Youre the man
Thank You👍🔧
He sounds like 6ix9ine lol
🤷♂️
I appreciate u
Thank you.🔧
push in push out🤭
🤦
chingón!!!!!
Gracias