Good morning, how do I know if I should change the temperature sensor? What I see is that when I start my vehicle in the morning the needle goes up somewhat quickly to the middle but it never goes beyond that no matter if I drive a lot or leave the car running for several hours on a hot day... or that could be a symptom of the Thermostat that is failing?
Quick question, I have a 2014 Ford Focus SE , I was able to replace the sensor and everything but when I turned it on there was a small leakage on the sensor ? Any suggestions. I also struggled putting it back in the hole as if it’s not fitting but I got the part from autozone. Let me know if there’s any way you can help me ! Thanks man
It’s highly possible you got the incorrect part, I should have mentioned the part number I used, sorry. If you still have the old part, I would highly suggest removing the new sensor and comparing the two to make sure they’re the same. If they are, then check to make sure the rubber O ring is not damaged.
Hi from Greece! I have a Ford Focus mk3 2012 diesel. When I start the car and it slowly starts to warm up the needle moves up and down, once it warms up it sits firmly in the middle.. I have changed 3 thermostats, i have no leaks anywhere.. Any chance it could be the sensor or something else? Thanks!
I have a 2015 ford focus, 48k miles. Bought it and AC blows hot. I replaced both fuses as they were shot (glove box & engine bay. I swapped the horn Relay with AC relay and horn works so relay is good). I have code P1116 and was wondering if this COULD be the reason why my compressor won’t turn on (engage) when I hit the “AC BUTTON” on the dash… any help is much appreciated!
@@JohnnyBlaze6954 I wouldn’t think it would be related but I’m not positive, I just work on cars as a hobby so I can’t say with any certainty. If I were you id start with this, if it doesn’t fix it, I’m guessing you have a leak in your AC system. Harbor freight carries cheap AC gauges you can use to see if your AC holds a vacuum (after you discharge any remaining refrigerant)
what symptoms did you have in order to replace your coolant sensor? did you have temp arrow moving? did your ac fan kicked in only if yo turned a/c on? mine does this normally but engine won't turn the fan on by itself ( i have to turn a/c on in order to cool the engine)...thanks
My car was off and it was about 40 degrees outside (rather cold) it had not been started all day....I got this message and the car refused to even start..(I could hear the starter crank over and the fuel lines pressurize) I have not noticed any coolant leaking and my reservoir tank is full..I think my issue maybe a faulty temperature sensor...I will be changing it out to see if this resolved my issues. 2015 Ford Focus 2.0L I will reply back if this was the problem; sensor maybe stuck open...but what is strange is the engine had not even turned over so it never had a chance to even get hot.....that's why I believe it to be a sensor and not an actual leak... "“High engine temperature. Stop safely.” "Warning" The engine would not turn over. Thanks for the post! I will reply back if this was the cause.
@@nikkobejarano It didn't solve the issue for me at least. My ECU was apparently bad and it also caused my fuel pump to go out. I am still working on getting it repaired. The Temp. sensor was fairly cheap so It maybe worth a try if its not something like the ECU. Good luck on your repair/diagnosis Nicolas!
Update: The temp sensor was tried but it didn't fix the issue my car has. I also replaced ECU and fuel pump did not solve the problem.($650 wasted due to poor mechanic diagnosis) I will be testing the coolant overflow reservoir to see if its leaking apparently some people have determined a small (pin sized) hole develops near the bottom of the upper lip of the overflow res. that can cause this code. My engine temp. gauge now jumps all over the place so it would appear its gotten worse than it was before. Again this happens the very second I start the car at any ambient temp. outside...cold (-5) or warm day (60) so it definitely is not the car actually overheating just a sensor or part of the cooling system loop.
Hey Matt, sorry i just noticed i had not replied to this. Is the car still giving you a problem? Can you tell me what codes are present? Display the codes, but without definitions, without a scan tool. Start by pressing the "SELECT-RESET" button, and while holding it in, turn on the ignition. After the button is held for about five seconds, the word "test" will be displayed in the odometer. Release the button (within three seconds) to enter the test mode. Step through the display by pressing and releasing the "SELECT-RESET" button until the codes are displayed.
@@G_Rapids Thanks for the reply, I ended up just selling the car after my mechanic replaced the ECU and fuel pump, he was clueless and nothing he did solved the issue. New car made all the problems go away :) This was my first Ford and most likely my last. For a 5-6 year old car I have never had so many issues/problems; but I never had a problem with my 20 year old Toyota's with 200K miles so I went back to what works. Thanks for the help though.
Will a bad temp sensor cause fans not to come on? Changed radiator module fans still not coming on. So maybe relay? Or this temp sensor or fan itself...?
1. Is this the only coolant sensor on this engine? Because the auto store sells two different sensors, the other is about $75 and has a 90 degree bend for the connector to attach. 2. Is this the sensor that tells the PVM to call on the fan to cool the radiator? Thanks. Having trouble figuring out why my fan won’t come on after replacing Fan control module, and the fan. My relay and fuse are good. Just doesn’t seem to be receiving any voltage on the signal wire to the FCM. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.
Hi! I just replaced this sensor, checked the relay and the fuse, i hooked the fan up to the battery and it worked, and I changed the fan control module, and my fan still will not kick on, did you ever figure this out?
@@vanmh0036 , @mflettre6711, Did you finally figure out how to start the fan? I'm in the same situation. Changed the fan sensor and control unit. A mechanic advised me to change the fan, but I'm not sure I should do it because measuring with the tester from the control unit there's no voltage reaching the fan when the engine heats up too much!
Hey quick question. I have a 2015 Ford Focus Diesel and i have a problem with the coolant. The coolant appears to be leaking internally. Sometimes when the tank is empty i open it slowly and as i open it some of the coolant fluid comes back through the pipes and the tank fills itself up again! Sometimes i open it and as pressure releases, it stays dry... i am spending so much money on coolant now. Also sometimes i turn either the heater fan or air con and the engine temp goes up and for example if i want hot air, it blows super cold air... so the aircon messes up....whilst the engine temperature is high (over half way mark) then all of a suddeen the engine temp gauge drops back down and then the air comes back and works as per the setting (i.e: if i have heaters on... blows cold air... once temperature gauge drops, it blows hot air).... i have had the head gasket checked as well as EGR cooler valve and was told this is ok. I also replaced the coolant tank and cap... problem persists .... please plesse please help...
When you say your coolant is leaking internally, my first thought is a head gasket, but that can usually be easily confirmed by checking your oil or watching your exhaust. If your oil is a light brown milky color, then coolant is mixing, or if you see white exhaust, that is a sign of burning coolant. Check those two things first. If neither of those symptoms are present, you can usually rent a coolant pressure tester from an auto parts store, that way you can pressurize the system with the car off and check for leaks. Heater fan and AC should both help cool the engine rather than heat it up (generally speaking), when turning on the AC, your radiator fan should kick on automatically, no matter what the coolant temp is, and the heater fan should help bleed off the heat from the heater core. However, i have seen temps rise when using the AC when at idle, the compressor takes quite a bit of force to spin, and creates a heavier load at idle. As the engine temp comes up, you can expect the thermostat to open, which you can usually see around 180* (or similar if it has been replaced), when the thermostat opens, coolant temp should lower a little. I do not have experience with ford's diesel engines, but the ideas are generally the same, it may be a good investment to buy a cheap OBD2 scanner that reads things like coolant temp to make sure what the computer sees is similar to what the instrument cluster sees. The reason i replaced this coolant temp sensor is because the car thought it was always cold, and then it would start to overheat because it was not kicking on the fans.
@@hopedenise448 unfortunately, you likely need a new trans. The DPS6 (auto trans) is known for a lot of clutch/fork issues, even some catastrophic drum issues. Your overheating messages are likely true because the clutch slipping is causing the trans to get hot. If you're local to MI, i may be interested in buying it as is.
Dont by aftermarket coolant temperature sensors for this vehicle. The o ring on the aftermarket ones are too small, whoch will cause them to leak. Make sure the o ring is a big green o ring. I bought a cheap aftermarket one with a tiny back o ring on it that didnt seal the sensor. Obviously coolant leaked out of it. Had to put the old sensor back in.
That's unusual, if it came out fine, it should go in fine. I would make sure there isn't a wire or something else blocking the sensor from fully seating. Verify this by using your hand to feel around where the sensor gets installed. Secondly, compare the old sensor to the new sensor in your hands, make sure all the grooves, o ring, and everything else match up exactly, you could have been given the wrong part
@@kly007 We used a scan tool to clear the code, you can try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes but i can't remember if that will clear codes or not for these new cars, otherwise you can ask a local auto parts store to clear the code, though sometimes they will be fussy about that.
I am not sure, but google shows it’s on the firewall side of the cylinder head. You can usually find it by following the path that the coolant hoses take
My wife put coolant in and forgot to put coolant tank cap back on we drove like that for a day no problems next day left the house made it a mile and got a engine coolant is overtemp warning i pulled over popped hood coolant was low and bubbling no lid on so let it cool and filled it up put cap back on then tried to start it and it wont even crank or anything electronics in car come on like normal but even now 24hrs later still wont turn over or start and still says engine coolant over temp and shows temp gauge maxed out. Anyone have any ideas what it could be? I do hear a click or two under the fuse box thats under the hood when attempting to turn over. Please help I know nothing about cars and its broke down on side of highway right now its a 2014 ford fusion 1.5L Ecoboost
I replaced the my sensor but my radiator fun still doesn’t come on when the engine is heated. The fun only comes on when the ac is on. When the ac is off, my car overheats. How do I solve the problem ?
I would bring it to a mechanic. Sometimes the gauge itself is faulty, it can read overheating when it actually isn’t. A mechanic will be able to see what temperature the computer is actually reading.
I'm in the same situation. i plugged the scanner and it shows the temperature increasing as the temp arrow on the screen/display goes up. Any suggestions?
I believe it’s the same location as the 2.3, which on this model is not on the head itself, but there’s a plastic block on the driver side of the head, it’s on the rear of that block.
@@G_Rapids thanks man, will check that out. Ford shut down their dealership here n Focus is a rare car, even the dealership dunno the parts number 🤯. Thanks for the help though
Good video lol. I FINALLY found a video of my EXACT car. Same color too! Yay haha. My car is overheating and idk why....is it this part? Is it the fan control module? Is it the fan resistor thingy? Who knows! Process of elimination i suppose! At least all three things added up are less than 150 bucks total lol. Wish me luck!
@@BroadcastsFromPoorFarm neither. I have NO CLUE lol. But, it's winter so I said fuck it till warm weather comes 🤷♂️ can't overheat if it isn't warm enough to need radiator fans. In the next couple weeks I'm taking it to the Ford dealer though......I spent WAY more money than needed replacing literally everything I can think of. Sorry I can't be more help. But, coolant temp sensor didn't fix it, oil temp (in valve cover) didn't fix it, model didn't fix it nor did relays. I'm at a loss.
Thank you so much. I had no idea where this dang sensor was.
Good morning, how do I know if I should change the temperature sensor? What I see is that when I start my vehicle in the morning the needle goes up somewhat quickly to the middle but it never goes beyond that no matter if I drive a lot or leave the car running for several hours on a hot day... or that could be a symptom of the Thermostat that is failing?
Did you figure it out?
Quick question, I have a 2014 Ford Focus SE , I was able to replace the sensor and everything but when I turned it on there was a small leakage on the sensor ? Any suggestions. I also struggled putting it back in the hole as if it’s not fitting but I got the part from autozone. Let me know if there’s any way you can help me ! Thanks man
It’s highly possible you got the incorrect part, I should have mentioned the part number I used, sorry. If you still have the old part, I would highly suggest removing the new sensor and comparing the two to make sure they’re the same. If they are, then check to make sure the rubber O ring is not damaged.
Thanks… Your video really helped. I have A 2015 FORD Fusion Hybrid (Titanium). It went bad while traveling on New Years 2022 😏 ~V. 🇺🇸
Hi from Greece!
I have a Ford Focus mk3 2012 diesel. When I start the car and it slowly starts to warm up the needle moves up and down, once it warms up it sits firmly in the middle.. I have changed 3 thermostats, i have no leaks anywhere.. Any chance it could be the sensor or something else? Thanks!
I have a 2015 ford focus, 48k miles. Bought it and AC blows hot. I replaced both fuses as they were shot (glove box & engine bay. I swapped the horn Relay with AC relay and horn works so relay is good).
I have code P1116 and was wondering if this COULD be the reason why my compressor won’t turn on (engage) when I hit the “AC BUTTON” on the dash… any help is much appreciated!
@@JohnnyBlaze6954 I wouldn’t think it would be related but I’m not positive, I just work on cars as a hobby so I can’t say with any certainty. If I were you id start with this, if it doesn’t fix it, I’m guessing you have a leak in your AC system. Harbor freight carries cheap AC gauges you can use to see if your AC holds a vacuum (after you discharge any remaining refrigerant)
@@G_Rapidsafter I swap out this sensor, that’s the next plan!
Thanks for the video! It helps me a lot!
what symptoms did you have in order to replace your coolant sensor?
did you have temp arrow moving?
did your ac fan kicked in only if yo turned a/c on?
mine does this normally but engine won't turn the fan on by itself ( i have to turn a/c on in order to cool the engine)...thanks
There was an error code saying the engine took too long to heat up, other times it would move the coolant temp sensor all the way to HOT
My car was off and it was about 40 degrees outside (rather cold) it had not been started all day....I got this message and the car refused to even start..(I could hear the starter crank over and the fuel lines pressurize) I have not noticed any coolant leaking and my reservoir tank is full..I think my issue maybe a faulty temperature sensor...I will be changing it out to see if this resolved my issues.
2015 Ford Focus 2.0L I will reply back if this was the problem; sensor maybe stuck open...but what is strange is the engine had not even turned over so it never had a chance to even get hot.....that's why I believe it to be a sensor and not an actual leak... "“High engine temperature. Stop safely.” "Warning" The engine would not turn over.
Thanks for the post! I will reply back if this was the cause.
@Matthew Chandler I got excactly the same problem. Could you solved the problem by changing the sensonr?
@@nikkobejarano It didn't solve the issue for me at least. My ECU was apparently bad and it also caused my fuel pump to go out. I am still working on getting it repaired. The Temp. sensor was fairly cheap so It maybe worth a try if its not something like the ECU. Good luck on your repair/diagnosis Nicolas!
Update: The temp sensor was tried but it didn't fix the issue my car has. I also replaced ECU and fuel pump did not solve the problem.($650 wasted due to poor mechanic diagnosis) I will be testing the coolant overflow reservoir to see if its leaking apparently some people have determined a small (pin sized) hole develops near the bottom of the upper lip of the overflow res. that can cause this code. My engine temp. gauge now jumps all over the place so it would appear its gotten worse than it was before. Again this happens the very second I start the car at any ambient temp. outside...cold (-5) or warm day (60) so it definitely is not the car actually overheating just a sensor or part of the cooling system loop.
Hey Matt, sorry i just noticed i had not replied to this. Is the car still giving you a problem? Can you tell me what codes are present?
Display the codes, but without definitions, without a scan tool. Start by pressing the "SELECT-RESET" button, and while holding it in, turn on the ignition. After the button is held for about five seconds, the word "test" will be displayed in the odometer. Release the button (within three seconds) to enter the test mode. Step through the display by pressing and releasing the "SELECT-RESET" button until the codes are displayed.
@@G_Rapids Thanks for the reply, I ended up just selling the car after my mechanic replaced the ECU and fuel pump, he was clueless and nothing he did solved the issue. New car made all the problems go away :)
This was my first Ford and most likely my last. For a 5-6 year old car I have never had so many issues/problems; but I never had a problem with my 20 year old Toyota's with 200K miles so I went back to what works. Thanks for the help though.
Will a bad temp sensor cause fans not to come on? Changed radiator module fans still not coming on. So maybe relay? Or this temp sensor or fan itself...?
I got the same question. Did it work for you when changing this sensor?
I believe it’s the mega fuse that you are gunna have to replace on the battery compartment front cover
@@Cali_moonshine909 It was mega fuse 50 Amp
@jakecantu8083 did you fan go out randomly? Or did you replace it, therefore it didn’t cut on?
Yes @@redhatch9862
1. Is this the only coolant sensor on this engine? Because the auto store sells two different sensors, the other is about $75 and has a 90 degree bend for the connector to attach.
2. Is this the sensor that tells the PVM to call on the fan to cool the radiator? Thanks. Having trouble figuring out why my fan won’t come on after replacing Fan control module, and the fan. My relay and fuse are good. Just doesn’t seem to be receiving any voltage on the signal wire to the FCM. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.
Hi! I just replaced this sensor, checked the relay and the fuse, i hooked the fan up to the battery and it worked, and I changed the fan control module, and my fan still will not kick on, did you ever figure this out?
@@vanmh0036 , @mflettre6711, Did you finally figure out how to start the fan? I'm in the same situation. Changed the fan sensor and control unit. A mechanic advised me to change the fan, but I'm not sure I should do it because measuring with the tester from the control unit there's no voltage reaching the fan when the engine heats up too much!
@@trullox hi, having the same issue here did you figure it out?
Great video, but I have a silly question did you get to it under the car or from the top?
Everything was done from the top of the engine
@@G_Rapids Thank you, I have to do mine this weekend.
Hey quick question. I have a 2015 Ford Focus Diesel and i have a problem with the coolant. The coolant appears to be leaking internally. Sometimes when the tank is empty i open it slowly and as i open it some of the coolant fluid comes back through the pipes and the tank fills itself up again! Sometimes i open it and as pressure releases, it stays dry... i am spending so much money on coolant now. Also sometimes i turn either the heater fan or air con and the engine temp goes up and for example if i want hot air, it blows super cold air... so the aircon messes up....whilst the engine temperature is high (over half way mark) then all of a suddeen the engine temp gauge drops back down and then the air comes back and works as per the setting (i.e: if i have heaters on... blows cold air... once temperature gauge drops, it blows hot air).... i have had the head gasket checked as well as EGR cooler valve and was told this is ok. I also replaced the coolant tank and cap... problem persists .... please plesse please help...
When you say your coolant is leaking internally, my first thought is a head gasket, but that can usually be easily confirmed by checking your oil or watching your exhaust. If your oil is a light brown milky color, then coolant is mixing, or if you see white exhaust, that is a sign of burning coolant. Check those two things first. If neither of those symptoms are present, you can usually rent a coolant pressure tester from an auto parts store, that way you can pressurize the system with the car off and check for leaks.
Heater fan and AC should both help cool the engine rather than heat it up (generally speaking), when turning on the AC, your radiator fan should kick on automatically, no matter what the coolant temp is, and the heater fan should help bleed off the heat from the heater core. However, i have seen temps rise when using the AC when at idle, the compressor takes quite a bit of force to spin, and creates a heavier load at idle.
As the engine temp comes up, you can expect the thermostat to open, which you can usually see around 180* (or similar if it has been replaced), when the thermostat opens, coolant temp should lower a little.
I do not have experience with ford's diesel engines, but the ideas are generally the same, it may be a good investment to buy a cheap OBD2 scanner that reads things like coolant temp to make sure what the computer sees is similar to what the instrument cluster sees.
The reason i replaced this coolant temp sensor is because the car thought it was always cold, and then it would start to overheat because it was not kicking on the fans.
Did you ever find the issue with your diesel as I'm having the exact same problem with mine just replaced egr cooler and still the same
If my transmission temp sensor is bad can I unplug it and leave it unplugged or disconnect old sensor and leave it in just not plugged up
Sorry I have a 2016 Ford focus
Having major slippage and it's over heating
@@hopedenise448 unfortunately, you likely need a new trans. The DPS6 (auto trans) is known for a lot of clutch/fork issues, even some catastrophic drum issues. Your overheating messages are likely true because the clutch slipping is causing the trans to get hot. If you're local to MI, i may be interested in buying it as is.
i appreciate your help, thanks for making the video
Dont by aftermarket coolant temperature sensors for this vehicle.
The o ring on the aftermarket ones are too small, whoch will cause them to leak. Make sure the o ring is a big green o ring. I bought a cheap aftermarket one with a tiny back o ring on it that didnt seal the sensor. Obviously coolant leaked out of it. Had to put the old sensor back in.
That is good info to have. I try to buy all my parts from a Ford dealer like this one. 3 years since making this video and the issue has not returned.
My sensor won't go in all the way to where I can attach the clip..any suggestions would help..if you even see this.
That's unusual, if it came out fine, it should go in fine. I would make sure there isn't a wire or something else blocking the sensor from fully seating. Verify this by using your hand to feel around where the sensor gets installed. Secondly, compare the old sensor to the new sensor in your hands, make sure all the grooves, o ring, and everything else match up exactly, you could have been given the wrong part
I have an ST and the temp gauge on the dash isn't working. Is that a symptom of this sensor not working or?
i have a 2012 ford focus i need to find a second l shaped temp sensor i dont know where it is. for the other I put it. Someone help me please
Can you send me a link of what the sensor looks like?
images.app.goo.gl/hhmQ5oXJeVFfazi7A
Do you think sensor is the reason that my coolant liquid leaks or disappear?? This car is a shitty car and giving me so much stress.
It is unlikely, do you see spots in the driveway like the coolant is leaking out?
Is this video real time? How long did it take you to do the job? The dealership said its gonna take about an hour to do
Probably only took about 20 mins total, editing took some time off, really quite an easy job
@@G_Rapids Thanks. Did your check engine light turn off by itself after replacing the sensor?
@@kly007 We used a scan tool to clear the code, you can try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes but i can't remember if that will clear codes or not for these new cars, otherwise you can ask a local auto parts store to clear the code, though sometimes they will be fussy about that.
Is this the same sensor that's in a 2.5 L 2015 Fuision?
I am not sure, but google shows it’s on the firewall side of the cylinder head. You can usually find it by following the path that the coolant hoses take
@@G_Rapids ok thank you so much
@@rsmithjrrr hey I have the same question for a 1.5 L 2015 ford fusion did you end up finding out if it was the same or not
I have a 2014 Ford Fusion 2.0 eco is this the same spot as mine ?
Ben Svendsen I am not sure, but it’s likely yes. Ford likes to reuse designs
My wife put coolant in and forgot to put coolant tank cap back on we drove like that for a day no problems next day left the house made it a mile and got a engine coolant is overtemp warning i pulled over popped hood coolant was low and bubbling no lid on so let it cool and filled it up put cap back on then tried to start it and it wont even crank or anything electronics in car come on like normal but even now 24hrs later still wont turn over or start and still says engine coolant over temp and shows temp gauge maxed out. Anyone have any ideas what it could be? I do hear a click or two under the fuse box thats under the hood when attempting to turn over. Please help I know nothing about cars and its broke down on side of highway right now its a 2014 ford fusion 1.5L Ecoboost
I would disconnect the battery for 10 mins, then reconnect it and try to crank.
@@G_Rapids I did that it didn't work. I had to hook a code reader up and delete the code and then it started right up
My sensor plug refuses to go in far enough for the clamp to hit the grooves..help me please
I replaced the my sensor but my radiator fun still doesn’t come on when the engine is heated.
The fun only comes on when the ac is on. When the ac is off, my car overheats. How do I solve the problem ?
I would bring it to a mechanic. Sometimes the gauge itself is faulty, it can read overheating when it actually isn’t. A mechanic will be able to see what temperature the computer is actually reading.
I'm in the same situation. i plugged the scanner and it shows the temperature increasing as the temp arrow on the screen/display goes up. Any suggestions?
On the 2.0l is it in the head?
I believe it’s the same location as the 2.3, which on this model is not on the head itself, but there’s a plastic block on the driver side of the head, it’s on the rear of that block.
Thank you man!!
Hi man, i had the same issues like yours. Mind to share the part number ? It really helps. Thanks man.
Autozone shows a part number of SU2301, i got mine from a ford dealership though.
@@G_Rapids thanks man, will check that out. Ford shut down their dealership here n Focus is a rare car, even the dealership dunno the parts number 🤯. Thanks for the help though
@@julianoputraperdana1295 May be able to order it online from ford, not sure where you're at but i use fordparts.com
Thanks
Great video!
Dude great video
Good video lol. I FINALLY found a video of my EXACT car. Same color too! Yay haha. My car is overheating and idk why....is it this part? Is it the fan control module? Is it the fan resistor thingy? Who knows! Process of elimination i suppose! At least all three things added up are less than 150 bucks total lol. Wish me luck!
Kyle Brey a bad temp sensor could for sure be your issue then, if it’s reading incorrectly, it’ll never tell the computer to turn on your fans
Did it end up being the temp sensor, the fan control module, or a bad fan motor? Trying to diagnose same issue on my 2014 right now.
@@BroadcastsFromPoorFarm neither. I have NO CLUE lol. But, it's winter so I said fuck it till warm weather comes 🤷♂️ can't overheat if it isn't warm enough to need radiator fans. In the next couple weeks I'm taking it to the Ford dealer though......I spent WAY more money than needed replacing literally everything I can think of.
Sorry I can't be more help. But, coolant temp sensor didn't fix it, oil temp (in valve cover) didn't fix it, model didn't fix it nor did relays. I'm at a loss.
@@Lord_Pistachio_Nut did you fix it eventually?
Great intro!
I wish when peeps try yo help out at least please could they the write in title of video focus...CC...PETROL OR DIESEL... VARIANT AND YEAR
Check the description of the video
Why do you have to work in the dark wouldn't be being better in the daytime
I have since added new lighting, i did not want to work outside
You just drove into a garage I'm sure it has his own lights gone work in some dark places
Part number