i'm a mechanic (a car mechanic but there are no differences when it comes to oil change) and i would say you did a pretty good job in showing how to properly do an oil change. i would just like to specify some things: 1- when installing a new filter, it is good practice to use some oil to lube the O-ring (in this case, it was pre-lubed), to do so just tip your finger in oil and wet the rubber seal (better with gloves) 2- do not ever use power tools when tightening either the oil filter, the drain plug or the fill plug, as you correctly shown, you should alway tighten by hand and stop turning as soon as you feel a bit of resistance 3- one good thing to do is to check the oil filter and the air box, i often find bits of leaves and other dirt in air boxes (behind the air filter), i'm still puzzled as to why that happens even on relatively new air filters (i suspect poor installation is the cause) if you find such debris, use a hoover to suck all the debris out, pay attention also to the mainifold leading to the engine and hoover it as far as you can, DO NOT, under any circumstance use pressurized air to try to remove this debris, it could seriously damage your engine as you are pushing the debris INTO the engine. other than that, just give your engine a bit of time before you start hammering it (it doesn't really take much time on modern engines, you mainly just wanna reach oil pressure before starting to move, 10 seconds is a safe esitmate) and do not rev the engine much before it heats up a bit (doesn't take long, 1/2 minutes of decent speed driving). if you follow these instructions, and you do proper maintenance, your engine will be decently bulletproof (design defects not withstanding).
A good video. I use a torque wrench on sump plug and filter. I also cut the old filter open and inspect the paper and keep it in a library with kms and date.
In your opinion, what is your recommendation on the oil and filter change for the bike at the same time... Specs do not call for the same change out... Cheers mate
@@frankguernier2280 inspecting the filter is a good idea, but one shouldn't be shocked if he finds a little amount of metal dust, just be careful of chunks, the torque wrench is also a good thing, not vital, but good.
As an ex mechanic with ocd this makes me happy to see somebody teach the TH-cam world with actual experience and knowledge. All of my moto mates turn up at the track dirty bikes dirty filters dropping cold oil drives me crazy and they wonder why their bikes don't last 🤷🏼♂️
@@crad5476...& very important, so why trust anyone else to do it? Nobody cares for a bike like the one depending on it, apprentice at a shop, doubt it, he's learning with your bike!
Don’t be afraid to allow the bike to cool a little bit after riding the hell out of it. I’ve had bad experiences with hot engines, aluminum threads, and steel bolts. Things don’t always come properly torqued from the factory, or your dealership, or you’re friends garage, and if it’s over torqued and good and hot, you’re chances of destroying threads goes up pretty quickly. Especially on smaller bolts like the ones you’d find on KTM’s LC8c oil filter cover.
Totally I would let my 701 cool down a bit, the threads are made of swiss cheese, i got 4 bolts for the 2 oil filters torqued at 8Nm and they scare the shit out of me even with a pro torque wrench every time lol
I over tightened the drain plug on my cbr600 while it was hot once. I'm super paranoid about doing it again. I usually change it cold but I think i will warm it up this time and see how it goes. Will wait for it to be cold before tourqing the drain plug.
Being as I change mine at home, I can drain the oil hot and allow a decent cooldown time before torquing the drain bolt into the heated case. Never had issue yet... but now you got me worried. Is it mainly an issue when tightening into the warm aluminum? Or even when cracking the drain bolt loose? Thx.
And if you're worried about sediment.. flush a whole entire quart of new oil through the fill hole, and let it drain out until empty or even clear.! Flush the engine with new, to get out all the old. Then fill completely up with new, good to go!
Some years ago, the younger me was in the learning stage of motorcycle maintenance. And a lesson was coming. The theory of hot oil was solid, I heated the motor and proceeded to remove the oil plug. Not long into the process, my wrench slipped a little and the palm of my hand hit the exhaust pipe. Just a small touch, for less than a second. The glove and some of my hand melted, like wax, it could be worse, but the small bone stopped the scorching metal. A couple of months of healing, and now I have a visual reminder to not overdo it. Yes, I won't change the oil on a cold engine, but not on a smoldering hot one either. Heat it up, let it cool to safe temperature, save yourself the horrible pain and the possible damage to the oil pan/drain plug threads. Also, never tighten the new oil filter with anything but your hand, it even says so on the filter. A man using the wrench to tighten the oil filter should not give advice, this is mechanical illiteracy. So, consider what matters more, some imaginary health benefit to your motor or the serious burns, terrible pain and long healing time.
Agree with everyt single word you said on this video, as always. And don´t forget 🙂 Never turn the engine off when the fan kicks on to cool the engine down, let it turn off first.
@@Gwiedert If you turn the engine in this very hot condition off, the heat will stay for very long time in the engine and because the water is not circulating at this moment it may start to boil and damage the coolant or even the head gasket and other parts will also sufer from this. This is the reason why modern cars have an electrical water pump that continues to circulate the water even if you turn the engine off. Sorry for my bad english, its not my native language.
I watch quite a lot of moto related channels and yet you're the only one that have really orignal content and touch on some really important topics (ok FortNine is golden too). Good on you mate and keep up!
@@methanial73 You are obviously referring to a drain bolt copper washer ,as motorcycle sump drain plugs are not manufactured from copper . You can reheat a used copper washer & reform it by heating it up with a blow torch if you haven’t got a replacement washer.
It doesn’t matter if there is a new washer or not ,an accurate torque wrench set to the correct value ,will not over tighten. The washer made of alloy or copper is there to prevent oil seepage ,as the tightened bolt crushes it down to make up for slight irregularities in the sealing area between bolt head & sump drain hole area . Often you can get away with re using a previously used washer ,but if possible it’s always better to use a new washer of the same type ,to prevent less chance of oil seepage at running temp . Often the owners handbook won’t mention renewing the sump washer ,or only mention replacing it if damaged. Any torque value mentioned is only to prevent damage to the sump bolt & sump drain hole threads by over- tightening . The force exacted on the sump threads is the same where a new crush washer is used or not ,as long as the correct torque value is used .
We are so blessed in the USA to have the other countries making motorcycle videos. The American motorcycle channels on TH-cam don't know how anything actually works, they just bring their engine to a specialty shop in Southern California, and they have the engine built for $39,000 with a secret cash deal behind the camera. Then they install the new shiny engine, and have a $100,000 project bike, and make it seem like it's just a normal thing that people can afford. Nobody ever explains oil. Americans don't know how oil even works. So thank you so much for educating us.
2 things I also do is prefill the oil filter up to the threads once, It'll absorb into the filter media. Once the engine has drained I take .5qt of fresh oil and pour it in the fill port with the drain plug still off, you'd be surprised that it still comes out dirty for a few sec and then clean. I always buy extra oil, to me it's cheap compared to an engine.
As someone who hasn't even touched handbars before, I look at you as a bigger brother that's teaching me stuff. I'm looking to get my license these days and grab an old bike to learn both to ride and the mechanical stuff on it and I'm really pumped. Love the content, I came across your channel when you got that old Africa Twin in Norway and it's just amazing. Keep it up!
Be careful, not all advice is equally helpful. Get another opinion, several if possible, then make your decision and regret it, learn by experience. Some sources are more reliable than others, shop manuals are better than TH-cam experts.
spot on, oil in its pure form is black, also good point, on the filter, always oem for the bikes, , cars ok with ryco etc because they live or die on quality, mass production,not bikes
I too am with you. The same "sediments" are going to settle again on those same "surfaces" regardless to tempreature. It happened previously after it was ran hot, will likely happen again while it is hot..
Mate, absolutely fantastic video! As an engineer sometimes is hard to explain to people, you have done it beautifully! Also worth to mention, for people living in cold area it is good practice to change oil before winter, as old oil with all these particles has also water particles in it and when sits over winter which tends to crystalize, once this happens there could be small microscopic reacting creating pitting or crevice corrosion. If you change your oil as you have shown before winter, you are ready to go in summer!
I would like to add something I like to do (and it's only a personal preference) when changing oil filters: I always pre-fill the oil filter with oil, letting the internals in the filter absorb all the oil it can before mounting it on the engine. Doing this will allow the oil pump to fill up the filter casing a lot faster as it is already saturated, and the new oil will reach the engine faster. This is by the way one of the best videos I've ever seen on how to do a proper oil change! You're being informative and educational and at the same time making the topic interesting, watching you hammer that bike on the track also helps keeping our attention 😉
It's interesting, but there isn't any proof that filling with oil helps, and on modern ZX-6R's the pump loses it's prime and the only way to prime the pump again is to actually loosen the oil filter to allow air to bleed out. It might actually help the pump to have less resistance on it, by having an empty filter, so it's able to actually get oil into the oil pump and begin pumping before it encounters resistance in the oil filter. Even when I fill an oil filter totally full, the engine still never has oil pressure, so I've had to crank my engine with the throttle all the way open (flood clear mode). Hold your throttle completely full throttle, then crank, and it won't start, because it shuts off all the fuel to the injectors. After the oil light goes out, then start it. You won't damage your engine this way. Dry starts cause years of damage in a few seconds.
@@suprlite Not really, the filter absorbes the oil and holds it, I'm not talking about filling the filter to the brim _after_ the filter is in fact saturated. I've done this for years with no problem at all - If you're spilling oil you're doing it wrong 😂
@@Ritalie I see this is a comment I've not noticed, but yeah you're absolutely correct, no proof for this being the best way of changing the filter, its my preference - and some engine/vehicle manufacturers actually instruct you to do so in the manual. You do what you think is best, and if your bike needs the air to bleed in order to get the filter filled and oil flowing I guess "bleeding" is the way to change filter in your case.
I feel like the majority of people hardly ride their motorcycles and usually sell them after a year or two, but this is all solid advice and guidance. Thanks
@@MrRadialdrift well I say it based mostly on observation. Observation of the mileage on secondhand bikes and the experiences buying second hand bikes. In total that's experiences with 15 motorcycles (owned by myself or family over years), only one had more than 25k miles on it, and it was a 1971.
Did a cold oil change about 3 weeks ago, watched you vid, took it for a blast around the farm with the kids, then dropped the hot oil out, my clean oil that had just gone in was black, thanks heaps.
I noticed that Adam was not mentioning this in the video. I have magnets in gear sump, oil sump and even for transaxle. Gear oil plug looked like a little hedgehog made of steel, when I changed the oil at 10000km. Suggested interval is 30000km. I seriously think that gearbox have died before that, the amount of metal flakes was insane.
Another approach with the engine is to put a couple of strong magnets on the side of the filter can. This will help collect steel particles onto the side of the can instead of in the filter element. Good economical approach. Main drawback is that unless you cut it open with a filter can opener, you can’t see how much material is collecting.
My new favourite channel…simple and practical advice from an experienced rider looking to help everyone out. Absolutely superb. The passion for biking makes the content infectious. 👏👏👏
Hi Adam. I work in the oil sector, mainly in imports and distribution and what you said about the xW-xx oil being the visco at low and high temps is correct. However, some manufacturers have specific specifications for the same viscosity grades. For example, it’s possible to have 2 “10w-40s” which conform to different specifications. This is to do with the materials inside the engine such as the specific material the rings are made out of, if the block is forged or cast etc. Therefore, it is always advisable that if you are using higher or lower viscosity grades, to match the specifications. For example the JASO MA2 spec can be found on multiple different grades and is for a certain type of piston ring material to prevent burn. Great video as always!
Thanks mate, I had to read a couple of Castrol spec articles to qualify the ratings etc, despite having gone by feel for the last 30-years of racing bikes. I've always tested various oils and ratings and for me it comes down to what the engine likes... you can feel it. If I've had to put cheap oil in for whatever reason, I purposely go a little easier on the engine and then drain it early like a flush. When I've got a quality oil in and the engine loves to rev with it, I'll push it as hard as I can in race conditions or whatever. Never had a motor fail me because of the oils I've used and the maintenance method I've outlined in this video. Motul is one the top-shelf few.
@@MotologyFilms The way I see, if the companies like Motul, Mobil1, Castrol, Eurol etc are using the Dakar to test their fluids, it’s fine for 99% of riders! Have a T7 myself and always use a high grade 10w-40 like yourself. So important and so easy to neglect and go for the bottle that’s $5 cheaper!
Hey Killian, im working at a multibrand motorcycle shop - and while i'm still a salesman im very into details. And as far as all the information goes that's in my reach the JASO MA2 is primarily about the amount of inner friction of the mentioned oil and is a crucial specification for wet clutch systems. Is that aspect of piston ring friction a side aspect or is it outlined wrong in german literature and the focus is on the piston rings? It's the first time i hear about that - as far as i learned it was almost completely about the wet clutch slipping. Would be interesting. But i'll also have a chat about that with the man of motul germany, who's responsible for our area. Best regards!
@@euermerkwurdenscherbenwahn242 You are completely correct. The main purpose of JASO MA2 is to do with clutch bite and grip like you mentioned. All specs have functions which are primary, secondary and so on. Piston rings are an easy example of different materials inside and engine as sometimes people who arent so in to the technical side will just assume all the internals are metal cause the engine is metal, which as we know is not correct.
This is the reason I service my own cars and bikes - got burned too many times by workshops that just didn’t have the care and respect for my stuff. A word of warning for hot engines and alloy threads - take care and go easy as it is VERY easy to strip.
Greetings from Iceland, thank you for a great video. To remove nuts or bolts.....Lefty loosely....righty tightly...that's how I learnt it 40 some years ago when I got my Aeronautical Engineers degree.
One of the best videos out there on oil change. I would add run the motor for a few secs then turn off and check level again after a minute or so to finally dial in your level. I tip my bike over each way when draining the oil to get as much as possible down to the sump. Maybe over kill. Thanks for a great video mate. Regards from the UK.
The body movement at 0:58! 😮 though as I look at it more and more, you don’t really move at all. Your head is almost perfectly still staring strait ahead. The body and bike are so fluid. It’s fun to watch you ride.
It still surprises me that people pay a shop to do their oil changes. That tool that you used on the filter is the same as fits all three of my bikes as well as my Landcruiser, so cost effective. I consider doing my own oil changes on a par with changing nappies on your new born... it's a time of personal contact that will improve your relationship, in this case with your bike, and help you know it more parsonally !! Never a bad thing. Thanks for the so concise video.
Here in Brazil the price of the oil on the internet it's pretty much tha same to the shop, and In the shops they only charge the oil. For convinienc I change oil in a shop
I watched this video with satisfaction and joy for being vindicated in my way of changing oil. I got my brand new 1978 Chevy Big Block V8 C30 Silverado which died. The first oil change i had done at 1000 miles and I had every subsequent oil change done at 3000 miles at a drive-thru business place called PennZoil Quick Lube. I thought that changing oil at that interval I'd have a pristine engine inside. At 15,436 miles, 5 "professional oil changes" later and just before the 6th one, my engine just started going slower on the toll road and literally ground to a stop. It was out of warranty!!! Towed back to the dealer I bought it from, they took it in and called me 2 days later asking me to come in. They showed me the motor with the upper valves exposed and a thick black residue, the consistency of a cold stick of butter had encased the entire upper part of the engine and valves , they told me it was a buildup from the waxy Pennsylvania oil used in my higher heat big block V8. PennZoil's "Lifetime Engine Guaranty" was non existent when I tried to get their help. Since then I have changed my own oil. I noticed that the stuff in the engine when I had it towed home was actually like a parrafin wax, cold it was almost solid but I took a hair dryer to it and it became like black grease, so in my mind I reasoned that if I changed my oil when it was hot anything like that would come out softened by the heat. I still change my oil and check it after 1000 miles and its a light brown color similar to a can of coke, not black, when I change it, the oil comes out dark, hot and drains quickly. I got back into riding bikes 40 years after I was married and got a used Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic with 14,096 miles, the first thing I done was drive it for 40 miles, change the oil with it hot and to my horror the oil came dribbling out like black molasses. I rode it for another 200 miles and changed it hot again and this time it poured out thin and black. I checked it 500 miles later, on the dipstick the oil was brown and at 1000 miles the oil was a dark brown but not black! That Dec. I changed the oil at just over 1400 miles to store it for the winter and it came out the same dark brown color. I plan on doing my 600 mile service on my new '23 KLR 650 and the chain tensioner adjustment (doo-hickey in red-neck speak) myself and change the oil every 1800-2000 miles myself as its cheaper to keep her lubed! IMO, always change your oil HOT! I get a lot of shit about it but it works for me.
People, if you cannot do an oil change this is the time to learn! If your bike is out of warranty you don't want to go do a stealership JUST for a simple task like that. If you ride on track YOU MUST be able to do this and some other basics. This is a great video that goes over the "tricks" and the practical approach to this task.
i always changed my oil when my bike was very cool...or i gave it rest say al the night and then the next morning i changed the oil...and it was my practice for the last 20+ years or more...now after watching this i will never let the bike cool down..such a clever tip..
Thank ya good sir! As a new adventure bike owner I have needed every single one of these videos you’ve recently released. Also changing oil on my 450RL after work tonight. Thanks Adam! 🏍️💨
I love riding motorcycles but i was never taught about how to take care of them. Thank you for this. Im watching all of your videos. One day i wanna have my own bike that i take good care of and hopefully have so much fun as you did. I really appreciate you.
Brilliant video. Here, in India, they always insist on changing the oil when cold!! This is such an eye opener! Couldn't have come at a better time as planning for a 1000 kms ride with considerable off-road conditions 🙏
Some great tips Adam thanks. I think regular oil changes are one of the simplest and most important things we can do for our bikes. Learn how to do it yourself, save time and money and become familiar with your own machine👍
Good Stuff ! Straight to-it with no BS ! I was lucky that 3 of my Dads mates were A-Grade-Mechanics who built some amazing race-engines etc . They taught-me what you just showed and at 14 , I soon become the 'Free' mechanic for all my mates ! Any problems and I had 3 experts I could give a call , we did everything to our bikes and (later) cars , including engine-rebuilds . There seemed to be a lot more commonsense back in those days (I'm just cracking 70 and still ride, TR1 xv is my favorite, my Old-Man-bike is a W650) Dave NZ
Adam, my 890 had Putoline at the dealer for first service warranty validation, I switched to motorex next service but didn't like how the clutch was grabby when cold, so I went back to Motul which I used in my Gsxr stunt bike and YZ400. I'm on the 7100 10/50 - bike revs cleaner, shifts slicker, is generally noisier but hell KTM's sound like a bag of spanners anyway. I also use the 890 for short commutes, the worst type of running for an engine. So it gets oil changes every 600 miles regardless, warm it up to boil off the condensate then thrash the arse off it. A Filter is critical at every change if doing short journeys due to the heavier content of moisture, acids and fuel dilution that occurs in short duration running (warm up enrichment) Same if you do lots of river/creek crossing, water ingested will generally be burnt off by combustion and heat in the crankcase, but any making its way into the oil can block the filter. People seeing blackened oil with recommended grades should check how hot their oil temp is. We found our race cars 10/50 was blackening quicker than expected and after placing temp strips on several locations we found the temps on a gallery exceeded the 50 rating, switched to 10/60 and the oil lasted between scheduled changes with no blackening. Motul is quality gear, when I revalved my forks and shock I discovered that motul was one of the few manufacturers whose grades actually met the correct cSt viscosity values required by WP.
Adam, Thank you for the brilliant videos, I've learned so many valuable tips over the past year. It's s great having people like you taking time from their lives and providing good solid information. It's truly appreciated. Here's a tiny tip that was provided to me by a WW2 vet to who I always listened very attentively when I was a mechanics apprentice for a small family garage. He always prefilled the oil filters. He explained when you removed the filter it had oil in it so it's best to install the filter with oil in it so it's ready to lubricate the engine once it's started. ( Grant F also stated in the comments ) Just my 2 cents. Keep up the great work.
@Terry Willefert When i replaced the turbo on my Saab i unplugged the ignition cassette so that i could crank over the engine without it starting until i built up sufficient oil pressure, could probably do the same with oil changes if you want to be extra safe with dry filters.
You have so much good tips! I've been riding for +15years and I never knew those little tricks Thanks for also explaining WHY you should have warm oil and so fort :) Keep it going man. I love your channel
Also clean the threads of the oilfilter with a cloth. there often are metal flakes on it from factory threating. you do not want that in your fresh maintained engine! Thanks for the List!!! Very good Info, every Biker should know (or any driver in that case)
Wonderful vid! I take exception with a couple of minor things though. First off I always would advise using the factory recommended oil type and viscosity. There are tolerances inside engines that absolutely depend on it. So no, I would not use a higher viscosity unless i had an old or failing engine. And as far as filter bypasses go. You don't quite hit the fine point. Though you are close. It's rare and unusual for an oil filter to completely stop filtering as you seemed to state. There may be a time when someone goes too long an interval and gets a partial restriction. That is rare, and when it happens the bypass system allow enough oil by the filter to allow the engine to lubricate itself and survive. but there will still be some filtering going on and some of the wear particles will be collected during bypass. Butr your main point is true and well said. Hot oil carries away the most contamination. So true.
That's what I thought also, if a oil filter routinely quits filtering in not much time engines would never last. Something has to be going on to plug an oil filter. Shouldnt be that much debris coming off inside a good engine. If you slip the clutch hard and regular then yeah, clutch parts try to go throughout the engine. I will never do that to my 890. Only on 2 strokes do I use a clutch like that, but at low revs.
Same here. I don’t even keep them long enough to need a valve adjustment. There’s a lot of life left in the engine when I swap them for something new. As far as oil changes I simply follow the manual, never had an issue.
Your description of the[ Gruel left in the motor]is without Parallel. clutch plate particules ,followed up with gear box steel shavings grinding their way thru the motor, not to mention the oil filter false sense of defence against such an attack. LOVED it Adam. I learn something new every time. your fan PARC ADV
I read many of the comments, but what I didn't see mentioned is this: Loosen, or remove the oil fill cap when draining the old oil. This allows air to enter the crankcase and the old oil to drain smoother, without the "chugging" action at the end. Helps to splash less this way, when it's nearly all drained. Like trying to pour milk out of a bottle without letting air in, it will glug-glug-glug rather than pour. As others have mentioned, DO add oil to the new oil filter, too. Give your motor a head start in being lubricated. Lastly, I've never felt the need to use a wrench to install a new oil filter. Drives me crazy trying to muscle off a used oil filter, or drive a screwdriver through it to lever it off due to it being overtightened. Hand tight then snug with 2 hands; the entire thread will hold it on fine because heat expands it all. None of my oil filters have ever leaked, just because I didn't tighten it down with a wrench.
AWESOME! Very important information, I learned something new! 1.) Paper oil filters are the only good ones. Don't use fiberglass or synthetics. Paper filters filter the most fine particles and are nearly impossible to put into bypass, because there are so many folds and spaces for particulates, compared to other newer synthetic elements. (see actual tests). 2.) Motul 7100 and 300V oil only in streetbikes. Only Motul oil. 300V oil does show literally half as much wear in a straight friction test hot and cold, that I observed, using the standard "wear scar" test. The wear scar was less than half as deep for both the hot and cold tests on 300V oil compared to 7100. Both are good oils. 7100 is slightly thicker and may be quieter. 300V is a thinner oil, for maximum horsepower. 3.) OEM oil filters are all plain paper. Because paper is the best. 4.) HiFlo brand oil filters are paper, and are similar, but even stronger constructed to OEM's.
When you change oil at that temp you are at higher risk of damaging the threads, steel vs aluminium. A long drain time is also effective, I also rotate the engine using the engine where you set valve timing. Always gets a good trickle
Great info! I have always gone for a good ride before changing the oil and filter mostly just to make sure it good and hot so i can get all of the old oil out. One more thing i do it sit on the bike while its draining and tip it from side to side. You would be suprised how much more trapped oil comes out.
Loving your technical insights and maintenance videos. They are pure value because they help me 'understand' why I should do something in a particular way. Cheers from Holland.
I suppose i should use this rare opportunity when im early to tell you that as a newbie rider i found your video,s enjoyable and to a certain degree useful (i have yet to really learn or try most stuff from all the guides you made,let alone have a suitable vehicle for some of the things) Ill comeback to it when need be.
For me, changing the oil is a pain the backside (literally), but your knowledge and methodical approach shows how simple and important it is ... and so it becomes fun.
In 30 years of wreching there is just ONE engine that I changed cold without running it. New to me diesel lawnmower that I know had been poorly maintained. Fresh oil and did not change filter. Ran it with with that combo for an hour and got crude out of crankcase. Changed oil and filter and oil is still a nice amber color 100+ hours later.
Good advice to do it hot after a harder ride. I bought the 5-25Nm torque wrench for like 20$ and i am sure i don't overtighten both the drain and filter cover screws, that are 25Nm for drain and 5Nm for cover screws. I tend to overtighten everything because i had 250 Jawa that shaken everything off unless it was super tight.
When i was young i used to watch my Father change the oil in FJ,EJ & HD, he would always take the car for a drive to get the engine warm & then drain the oil, i always do this on my car, van & dirtbikes :) My HX 1 Tonner was still going @ 937,000 klms, i always let my cars & dirtbikes drain over night, i even put a bit of air through the dirtbikes to get some more oil out :) I have heard that new cars can only go a couple of hours while draining the oil, or you will have problems because of the oil filter/electronics set up ?
Touratech bash plate is what I have, so worth it. Very good knowledge you have, I change the oil after a hot steady day in the UK and even if the manual says 6k miles to change,I still change mine at 1k miles 👍. Sump plug bolt, I drilled small hole and lockwired it, Not Rm80 experience but yz125.
Great video, and absolutely wicked bike! The only thing I do extra… is fill the new filter with new oil before I put it on. Even my horizontal mount ones like yours. You can fill it to the top, and it will soak it up enough to not spill when spinning it on. Avoid those crucial few seconds of it running not getting oil right away due to the element in the filter soaking it up first. I also soak my canister type ones on my BMW as well. But that’s just me. 🤷♂️ Cheers 🍻
I always replace a filter every oil change but i never thought about how quick it might get blocked. I always change oil long before the book says SO I dont think a filter blocks that quickly. But i don't ride anywhere near as hard as you. Great video and im glad it confirms my oil change habits. Motul: Never liked it. Always seemed thin and engine was nosier. My xr400m clutch would slip on it (Had a built Motor), My ktm 690, husky te510 engine was very loud, Even on the 10w - 60. Went to penrite and it has been fantastic and a little cheaper.
Yeah mate, the accumulation of debris is exponential - the more cold oil changes are done, the more particles stay in your motor and basically block your filter quicker each time they're replaced.
I've been riding for only lil about 3 years or so and I was always told to change oil on cold without giving any sort of explanation lol. I guess is never too late to learn, thanks for the free lessons man! Love your vids keep 'm comin!
Good tips, I like watching your vids. Some day I need to come to Australia too. Additionally, I always fill up the bone dry filter three times till is soaked up and oil level doesnt drop anymore in the upright filter, no matter if its mounted vertically or horizontally. Turn it fast and it wont spill out while mounting :) Everyone and his mother starts his engine cold, AFTER he puts on all the gear, helmet gloves etc.. Start it before you put your gear on, at least gloves and helmet, except you are on the run. Oil needs a while to reach what is far away, like camshaft journals. And, don´t start any engine with extra throttle. If you need extra throttle to make it look cooler for some pedestrians, or dudes who don´t care anyway, do it. But an engine that needs extra throttle to start, isnt tuned properly, and shows the owner has no clue what he is doing, period. When starting it, there is metal in contact with metal, extra load makes it worse. Regarding the oil, that is black again after the first ride. When coolant temperature is high enough in any fancy display, oil temp by far isnt, it takes way longer. Well, in an engine with about 3,5 litres of oil capacity for a change with filter, about 3,3l for change without filter, (who ever does that?) and about 4,2 liter for a dry engine, you can imagine what color your 3,5 litres of fresh, clear, red or whatever oil, will look after you put 0,7litres of black oil into it... guess what? Its almost as black again in the small level window. Im a professional bike mechanic, having my own workshop, not self tought like most dudes around the world, normally working on cars, fork lifts or lawn mowers. But... what do I know, compared to some real office dude pros reading reddit ;)
Ive been doing this 55 years, ride the bike warm it up, drain the oil remove the filter add oil to the filter if vertical almost fill it horizontal 1/2 cup, hand tighten filter new crush washer tighten with torque wrench if you don't have the feel. You could change filter every other change and still not have an over used filter. Coat the filter seal with a slight coat check base plate wipe off make sure seal from old filter didn't stick to the metal when it was removed.
Absolutely gold stuff. Thank you, Sir! As a happy owner of a 2 years old motorcycle, I'm gonna do my own maintenance, starting with oil change,thanks to your valuable insides.
life circumstances have forced me to sell my T7. Love your videos! So good explanations, simple but good edition! Good job! Looking forward for the next one.
Every so often you come across a channel with brilliant info where you learn a load no matter how much youve learnt in the past :) thanks for taking the time to share gradually working my way through the videos superb work an info. I got my 300 rally back from a dealer the other week after its first service usually do all my own work an noticed how filthy the oil was after its first service in the window, my dads bro who raced Nortons always hammered it into my mind to change them hot, ill try the fan trick on the rally this week.
Good tutorial... just one not insignificant thing. When you drain the oil on side stand, there will be some leftover in the engine pan. Put it on centerstand or hold it vertical for a moment to drain it all.
I've always changed my oil after 20+ minutes commutes, with one exception where the bike was sitting cold, started the engine and let it run for 5-10 minutes, then started to change the oil and filter afterwards, I was surprised that the oil got immedietly black, now this explains everything.
Great presentation, well done. If i could add a littlte tip it would be to put some fresh oil into your filter before you install it. That way the engine oil will circulate easier through it when you fire up.
Very interesting. About to change the oil/filter on my Buell XB12X after a long storage. I'll follow your advice to the letter. First off-roader I've seen wearing pyjamas.
Great tips. I think the crush washer I'm using is original. Also getting a magnetic drain bolt is a handy way to collect the heavier dirt. Changing oil in all my vehicles basically like this. Shit is too expensive to just trade it in every couple years. What's everyone's mileages on their one lungers? 2011 KLR with 106000km. Had it's first two oil changes with Kawasaki synthetic and paper filters. Then switched to Amsoil and stainless filter. Roughly around 20k I switched to Rotella T4 as Amsoil or other synthetics are too much money and unrealistic for regular use and travel. However I aquired an older GasGas and will run Amsoil in it because 1. It's a Europrincess 2. It's a weekend bike 3. The cost per mile will be significantly lower
That's pretty good, my R1 has 166,000 k's on it and I only ever change the oil when cold, halve the suggested oil change intervals and use Motul synthetic. Runs as good as the day I bought it.
110 % all true ..... i change oil by my self all life... i have never isues.. my 690 have 145.000km ..... and runs like a new bike.. I change oil every cca 2000km.... This is recept for a long life..and never forget.. no cold to maximum... first 10minuts easy...then- BRAAAAAAAAP ! 😅
I both enjoyed your video and learned a lot from it. I respect what you said most of the time, because I see a lot of sense in all of your advise, but what I was taught and I have witnessed in my life (sorry car guy here, but the oil filters seem quite the same), you should never, NEVER use any tool , that you've used untightening the oil filter, or you are going to use it for, you never use a tool to tighten the oil filter. Just tighten it by hand. Use however much force you can put to it, but just with your bare hands. Because when you tighten a fresh new filter, the O-ring if soft and the lube it has on it, or the oil that has leaked over the surface it pushes towards to, makes it slide easily. This oil or lube is trapped there and after a year or 5000 kilometres it is going to be baked and stuck. The rubber O-ring is now going to be plastic-hard. Now is when you need that tool. But out of that, thanks for the great tips.
Yep. I did that. Spent lots of $ on racing oil and noticed it was dark after my 1st ride. I just blamed it on the oil and said nope not gonna buy that brand again. Thanks for this top tip! Now I gotta go change my oil again.
I wish I could ride half that well - full send, all the time! Great tips on engine maintenance, much appreciated. I use a telescoping magnetic "pickup" tool for the last few threads when removing the oil plug If anyone can recommend an excellent ADV training course within 100 kms of Vancouver (Canada), I would appreciate it!
Learned more about oil changes in 18 minutes watching your video than I have in 40 years of riding :) Thanks!
You had never learned to get the bike warm? Read the manual much?
Me too feel stupid now
💯 True 👍👍
Ditto, Martin.
Commen sense ..hot oil changes are the only way
i'm a mechanic (a car mechanic but there are no differences when it comes to oil change) and i would say you did a pretty good job in showing how to properly do an oil change.
i would just like to specify some things:
1- when installing a new filter, it is good practice to use some oil to lube the O-ring (in this case, it was pre-lubed), to do so just tip your finger in oil and wet the rubber seal (better with gloves)
2- do not ever use power tools when tightening either the oil filter, the drain plug or the fill plug, as you correctly shown, you should alway tighten by hand and stop turning as soon as you feel a bit of resistance
3- one good thing to do is to check the oil filter and the air box, i often find bits of leaves and other dirt in air boxes (behind the air filter), i'm still puzzled as to why that happens even on relatively new air filters (i suspect poor installation is the cause) if you find such debris, use a hoover to suck all the debris out, pay attention also to the mainifold leading to the engine and hoover it as far as you can, DO NOT, under any circumstance use pressurized air to try to remove this debris, it could seriously damage your engine as you are pushing the debris INTO the engine.
other than that, just give your engine a bit of time before you start hammering it (it doesn't really take much time on modern engines, you mainly just wanna reach oil pressure before starting to move, 10 seconds is a safe esitmate) and do not rev the engine much before it heats up a bit (doesn't take long, 1/2 minutes of decent speed driving). if you follow these instructions, and you do proper maintenance, your engine will be decently bulletproof (design defects not withstanding).
A good video. I use a torque wrench on sump plug and filter.
I also cut the old filter open and inspect the paper and keep it in a library with kms and date.
In your opinion, what is your recommendation on the oil and filter change for the bike at the same time... Specs do not call for the same change out... Cheers mate
@@RobertSantos-rw8dy I go 5k or 12 months. The start if the
Start of the ride season. Plus fresh brake fluid.
@@frankguernier2280 inspecting the filter is a good idea, but one shouldn't be shocked if he finds a little amount of metal dust, just be careful of chunks, the torque wrench is also a good thing, not vital, but good.
As an ex mechanic with ocd this makes me happy to see somebody teach the TH-cam world with actual experience and knowledge. All of my moto mates turn up at the track dirty bikes dirty filters dropping cold oil drives me crazy and they wonder why their bikes don't last 🤷🏼♂️
Nobody changes my oil but me, for 45yrs, but i I ALWAYS learn things from you! Thanks, good stuff 🤙
Its very easy to do and it saves you a lot of money.
@@crad5476...& very important, so why trust anyone else to do it? Nobody cares for a bike like the one depending on it, apprentice at a shop, doubt it, he's learning with your bike!
Don’t be afraid to allow the bike to cool a little bit after riding the hell out of it. I’ve had bad experiences with hot engines, aluminum threads, and steel bolts. Things don’t always come properly torqued from the factory, or your dealership, or you’re friends garage, and if it’s over torqued and good and hot, you’re chances of destroying threads goes up pretty quickly. Especially on smaller bolts like the ones you’d find on KTM’s LC8c oil filter cover.
Totally I would let my 701 cool down a bit, the threads are made of swiss cheese, i got 4 bolts for the 2 oil filters torqued at 8Nm and they scare the shit out of me even with a pro torque wrench every time lol
I over tightened the drain plug on my cbr600 while it was hot once. I'm super paranoid about doing it again. I usually change it cold but I think i will warm it up this time and see how it goes. Will wait for it to be cold before tourqing the drain plug.
Being as I change mine at home, I can drain the oil hot and allow a decent cooldown time before torquing the drain bolt into the heated case. Never had issue yet... but now you got me worried. Is it mainly an issue when tightening into the warm aluminum? Or even when cracking the drain bolt loose? Thx.
@@CRGmotors not cracking the drain bolt loose when it's warm for me, but tightening when engine is warm could stretch the threads
And if you're worried about sediment.. flush a whole entire quart of new oil through the fill hole, and let it drain out until empty or even clear.! Flush the engine with new, to get out all the old. Then fill completely up with new, good to go!
Would love to see how you change and measure fork oil. It's perhaps one of the most ignored maintenance tasks and yet a crucial one! Cheers
What a great subject for a video! Hopefully we will see it.
@@SLP-eb1wp Because it's generally better to measure by air gap, not fluid volume.
If it were crucial everyone's forks would be destroyed and leaking.
People ignore because they're a pain in the ass to do, some bikes you have to disassembly the whole front just to yank the forks out
@@krb1230 then get the spec and a stick to measure the air gap.
Some years ago, the younger me was in the learning stage of motorcycle maintenance. And a lesson was coming. The theory of hot oil was solid, I heated the motor and proceeded to remove the oil plug. Not long into the process, my wrench slipped a little and the palm of my hand hit the exhaust pipe. Just a small touch, for less than a second. The glove and some of my hand melted, like wax, it could be worse, but the small bone stopped the scorching metal. A couple of months of healing, and now I have a visual reminder to not overdo it. Yes, I won't change the oil on a cold engine, but not on a smoldering hot one either. Heat it up, let it cool to safe temperature, save yourself the horrible pain and the possible damage to the oil pan/drain plug threads.
Also, never tighten the new oil filter with anything but your hand, it even says so on the filter. A man using the wrench to tighten the oil filter should not give advice, this is mechanical illiteracy.
So, consider what matters more, some imaginary health benefit to your motor or the serious burns, terrible pain and long healing time.
Agree with everyt single word you said on this video, as always.
And don´t forget 🙂
Never turn the engine off when the fan kicks on to cool the engine down, let it turn off first.
Why is that?
@@Gwiedert If you turn the engine in this very hot condition off, the heat will stay for very long time in the engine and because the water is not circulating at this moment it may start to boil and damage the coolant or even the head gasket and other parts will also sufer from this.
This is the reason why modern cars have an electrical water pump that continues to circulate the water even if you turn the engine off.
Sorry for my bad english, its not my native language.
@@iliasminas7711 garbage German cars have those electric that don’t last
@@Smoshylife True
Σωστός
That rear wheel hopping at around 1:00 had my heart pumping!
Gotta get that oil in every crevice!
Never stop listening & learning. And never stop riding a motorbike ☺ Thanks and big regards from Germany to you
I watch quite a lot of moto related channels and yet you're the only one that have really orignal content and touch on some really important topics (ok FortNine is golden too). Good on you mate and keep up!
Torque wrench with a new crush washer, that will guarantee you'll never strip a drain plug. And the torque spec assumes a new crush washer.
The smart answer is a fumoto valve 👍
@allanthomas7345 I've old and I never crashed a car but I'm not stupid enough to ignore seat belts, abs or car insurance...
A copper drain plug can be reused many times with no leaks. Assuming it's not over torqued.
@@methanial73 You are obviously referring to a drain bolt copper washer ,as motorcycle sump drain plugs are not manufactured from copper . You can reheat a used copper washer & reform it by heating it up with a blow torch if you haven’t got a replacement washer.
It doesn’t matter if there is a new washer or not ,an accurate torque wrench set to the correct value ,will not over tighten. The washer made of alloy or copper is there to prevent oil seepage ,as the tightened bolt crushes it down to make up for slight irregularities in the sealing area between bolt head & sump drain hole area . Often you can get away with re using a previously used washer ,but if possible it’s always better to use a new washer of the same type ,to prevent less chance of oil seepage at running temp . Often the owners handbook won’t mention renewing the sump washer ,or only mention replacing it if damaged. Any torque value mentioned is only to prevent damage to the sump bolt & sump drain hole threads by over- tightening . The force exacted on the sump threads is the same where a new crush washer is used or not ,as long as the correct torque value is used .
We are so blessed in the USA to have the other countries making motorcycle videos. The American motorcycle channels on TH-cam don't know how anything actually works, they just bring their engine to a specialty shop in Southern California, and they have the engine built for $39,000 with a secret cash deal behind the camera. Then they install the new shiny engine, and have a $100,000 project bike, and make it seem like it's just a normal thing that people can afford. Nobody ever explains oil. Americans don't know how oil even works. So thank you so much for educating us.
2 things I also do is prefill the oil filter up to the threads once, It'll absorb into the filter media. Once the engine has drained I take .5qt of fresh oil and pour it in the fill port with the drain plug still off, you'd be surprised that it still comes out dirty for a few sec and then clean. I always buy extra oil, to me it's cheap compared to an engine.
ARiemann1's videos are the real deal ... no reading from a script, just a straight shooter.
As someone who hasn't even touched handbars before, I look at you as a bigger brother that's teaching me stuff. I'm looking to get my license these days and grab an old bike to learn both to ride and the mechanical stuff on it and I'm really pumped.
Love the content, I came across your channel when you got that old Africa Twin in Norway and it's just amazing. Keep it up!
Welcome to motorcycling!
I'd say you're getting into it the right way, enjoy & good luck! ..careful who you take advice from, but think you found a good place for it 🤙
Be careful, not all advice is equally helpful. Get another opinion, several if possible, then make your decision and regret it, learn by experience. Some sources are more reliable than others, shop manuals are better than TH-cam experts.
i learned something new today ✌️ Thank You!
The heat cycles will also darken your oil. I don’t disagree about the sediment but it’s not the only factor. Great vid!
spot on, oil in its pure form is black, also good point, on the filter, always oem for the bikes, , cars ok with ryco etc because they live or die on quality, mass production,not bikes
I too am with you. The same "sediments" are going to settle again on those same "surfaces" regardless to tempreature. It happened previously after it was ran hot, will likely happen again while it is hot..
@@SgtPepperDayZ yeah the info in the video is wrong. The color has most to with crankcase blow by, fuel dilution and excessive heat intervals.
And condensation or any additives a person may have used making the oil "burn" at lower tempatures.
Also: a tiny bit of exhaust makes it past the piston rings.
Loving these maintenance vids. You’ve got so much knowledge but your expertise is in how you explain it. Thank you
Mate, absolutely fantastic video! As an engineer sometimes is hard to explain to people, you have done it beautifully! Also worth to mention, for people living in cold area it is good practice to change oil before winter, as old oil with all these particles has also water particles in it and when sits over winter which tends to crystalize, once this happens there could be small microscopic reacting creating pitting or crevice corrosion. If you change your oil as you have shown before winter, you are ready to go in summer!
I would like to add something I like to do (and it's only a personal preference) when changing oil filters: I always pre-fill the oil filter with oil, letting the internals in the filter absorb all the oil it can before mounting it on the engine. Doing this will allow the oil pump to fill up the filter casing a lot faster as it is already saturated, and the new oil will reach the engine faster.
This is by the way one of the best videos I've ever seen on how to do a proper oil change! You're being informative and educational and at the same time making the topic interesting, watching you hammer that bike on the track also helps keeping our attention 😉
It's interesting, but there isn't any proof that filling with oil helps, and on modern ZX-6R's the pump loses it's prime and the only way to prime the pump again is to actually loosen the oil filter to allow air to bleed out. It might actually help the pump to have less resistance on it, by having an empty filter, so it's able to actually get oil into the oil pump and begin pumping before it encounters resistance in the oil filter. Even when I fill an oil filter totally full, the engine still never has oil pressure, so I've had to crank my engine with the throttle all the way open (flood clear mode). Hold your throttle completely full throttle, then crank, and it won't start, because it shuts off all the fuel to the injectors. After the oil light goes out, then start it. You won't damage your engine this way. Dry starts cause years of damage in a few seconds.
Alot of tractor and truck engine manufacturers specify the fill new filter with oil method also.
When the oil filter sits sideways or upside down it just leads to spilling oil all over.
@@suprlite Not really, the filter absorbes the oil and holds it, I'm not talking about filling the filter to the brim _after_ the filter is in fact saturated. I've done this for years with no problem at all - If you're spilling oil you're doing it wrong 😂
@@Ritalie I see this is a comment I've not noticed, but yeah you're absolutely correct, no proof for this being the best way of changing the filter, its my preference - and some engine/vehicle manufacturers actually instruct you to do so in the manual. You do what you think is best, and if your bike needs the air to bleed in order to get the filter filled and oil flowing I guess "bleeding" is the way to change filter in your case.
I feel like the majority of people hardly ride their motorcycles and usually sell them after a year or two, but this is all solid advice and guidance. Thanks
Interesting assumption.
Go take a look at the mileage of second hand T7's. A lot of them are well under 5k miles. People must have money to burn
@@MrRadialdrift well I say it based mostly on observation. Observation of the mileage on secondhand bikes and the experiences buying second hand bikes. In total that's experiences with 15 motorcycles (owned by myself or family over years), only one had more than 25k miles on it, and it was a 1971.
I've had my plated '05 WR450F for 6 years now
@@seatime674how many kilometres are on it?
I just like the way that he runs his videos and narrates them, I can listen to this guy talk motorcycles all day long.
Did a cold oil change about 3 weeks ago, watched you vid, took it for a blast around the farm with the kids, then dropped the hot oil out, my clean oil that had just gone in was black, thanks heaps.
11:38 good idea to pre fill the filter with oil to soak into the filter media so oil pressure rises quicker.
I use a magnetic sump plug which collects a lot of the gunk between oil changes. At each change I wipe off the gunk and appreciate magnetism.
I noticed that Adam was not mentioning this in the video. I have magnets in gear sump, oil sump and even for transaxle. Gear oil plug looked like a little hedgehog made of steel, when I changed the oil at 10000km. Suggested interval is 30000km. I seriously think that gearbox have died before that, the amount of metal flakes was insane.
Another approach with the engine is to put a couple of strong magnets on the side of the filter can. This will help collect steel particles onto the side of the can instead of in the filter element. Good economical approach. Main drawback is that unless you cut it open with a filter can opener, you can’t see how much material is collecting.
My new favourite channel…simple and practical advice from an experienced rider looking to help everyone out.
Absolutely superb. The passion for biking makes the content infectious. 👏👏👏
Genuinely the best video I've seen on the subject. Everything is explained and has a reason behind it, not just "do this because we said so".
Hi Adam. I work in the oil sector, mainly in imports and distribution and what you said about the xW-xx oil being the visco at low and high temps is correct. However, some manufacturers have specific specifications for the same viscosity grades. For example, it’s possible to have 2 “10w-40s” which conform to different specifications. This is to do with the materials inside the engine such as the specific material the rings are made out of, if the block is forged or cast etc.
Therefore, it is always advisable that if you are using higher or lower viscosity grades, to match the specifications. For example the JASO MA2 spec can be found on multiple different grades and is for a certain type of piston ring material to prevent burn.
Great video as always!
Thanks mate, I had to read a couple of Castrol spec articles to qualify the ratings etc, despite having gone by feel for the last 30-years of racing bikes.
I've always tested various oils and ratings and for me it comes down to what the engine likes... you can feel it. If I've had to put cheap oil in for whatever reason, I purposely go a little easier on the engine and then drain it early like a flush.
When I've got a quality oil in and the engine loves to rev with it, I'll push it as hard as I can in race conditions or whatever. Never had a motor fail me because of the oils I've used and the maintenance method I've outlined in this video. Motul is one the top-shelf few.
@@MotologyFilms The way I see, if the companies like Motul, Mobil1, Castrol, Eurol etc are using the Dakar to test their fluids, it’s fine for 99% of riders!
Have a T7 myself and always use a high grade 10w-40 like yourself. So important and so easy to neglect and go for the bottle that’s $5 cheaper!
@@MotologyFilms Racing aint same as mechanical engineering or knowledge in oil and viscosity in different scenarios
Hey Killian,
im working at a multibrand motorcycle shop - and while i'm still a salesman im very into details. And as far as all the information goes that's in my reach the JASO MA2 is primarily about the amount of inner friction of the mentioned oil and is a crucial specification for wet clutch systems. Is that aspect of piston ring friction a side aspect or is it outlined wrong in german literature and the focus is on the piston rings? It's the first time i hear about that - as far as i learned it was almost completely about the wet clutch slipping.
Would be interesting. But i'll also have a chat about that with the man of motul germany, who's responsible for our area.
Best regards!
@@euermerkwurdenscherbenwahn242 You are completely correct. The main purpose of JASO MA2 is to do with clutch bite and grip like you mentioned. All specs have functions which are primary, secondary and so on. Piston rings are an easy example of different materials inside and engine as sometimes people who arent so in to the technical side will just assume all the internals are metal cause the engine is metal, which as we know is not correct.
This is the reason I service my own cars and bikes - got burned too many times by workshops that just didn’t have the care and respect for my stuff. A word of warning for hot engines and alloy threads - take care and go easy as it is VERY easy to strip.
Greetings from Iceland, thank you for a great video. To remove nuts or bolts.....Lefty loosely....righty tightly...that's how I learnt it 40 some years ago when I got my Aeronautical Engineers degree.
One of the best videos out there on oil change. I would add run the motor for a few secs then turn off and check level again after a minute or so to finally dial in your level. I tip my bike over each way when draining the oil to get as much as possible down to the sump. Maybe over kill. Thanks for a great video mate. Regards from the UK.
The body movement at 0:58! 😮 though as I look at it more and more, you don’t really move at all. Your head is almost perfectly still staring strait ahead. The body and bike are so fluid. It’s fun to watch you ride.
It still surprises me that people pay a shop to do their oil changes. That tool that you used on the filter is the same as fits all three of my bikes as well as my Landcruiser, so cost effective. I consider doing my own oil changes on a par with changing nappies on your new born... it's a time of personal contact that will improve your relationship, in this case with your bike, and help you know it more parsonally !! Never a bad thing. Thanks for the so concise video.
Here in Brazil the price of the oil on the internet it's pretty much tha same to the shop, and In the shops they only charge the oil. For convinienc I change oil in a shop
Having a hard time finding that oil filter removal tool, do you have a source? Thank you
Funny you mention it. Use the filter I bought for my Tundra on the T7 as well.
I like how you explain why, without knowing why, steps will eventually be skipped.
I watched this video with satisfaction and joy for being vindicated in my way of changing oil. I got my brand new 1978 Chevy Big Block V8 C30 Silverado which died. The first oil change i had done at 1000 miles and I had every subsequent oil change done at 3000 miles at a drive-thru business place called PennZoil Quick Lube. I thought that changing oil at that interval I'd have a pristine engine inside. At 15,436 miles, 5 "professional oil changes" later and just before the 6th one, my engine just started going slower on the toll road and literally ground to a stop. It was out of warranty!!! Towed back to the dealer I bought it from, they took it in and called me 2 days later asking me to come in. They showed me the motor with the upper valves exposed and a thick black residue, the consistency of a cold stick of butter had encased the entire upper part of the engine and valves , they told me it was a buildup from the waxy Pennsylvania oil used in my higher heat big block V8. PennZoil's "Lifetime Engine Guaranty" was non existent when I tried to get their help. Since then I have changed my own oil. I noticed that the stuff in the engine when I had it towed home was actually like a parrafin wax, cold it was almost solid but I took a hair dryer to it and it became like black grease, so in my mind I reasoned that if I changed my oil when it was hot anything like that would come out softened by the heat. I still change my oil and check it after 1000 miles and its a light brown color similar to a can of coke, not black, when I change it, the oil comes out dark, hot and drains quickly. I got back into riding bikes 40 years after I was married and got a used Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic with 14,096 miles, the first thing I done was drive it for 40 miles, change the oil with it hot and to my horror the oil came dribbling out like black molasses. I rode it for another 200 miles and changed it hot again and this time it poured out thin and black. I checked it 500 miles later, on the dipstick the oil was brown and at 1000 miles the oil was a dark brown but not black! That Dec. I changed the oil at just over 1400 miles to store it for the winter and it came out the same dark brown color. I plan on doing my 600 mile service on my new '23 KLR 650 and the chain tensioner adjustment (doo-hickey in red-neck speak) myself and change the oil every 1800-2000 miles myself as its cheaper to keep her lubed! IMO, always change your oil HOT! I get a lot of shit about it but it works for me.
People, if you cannot do an oil change this is the time to learn! If your bike is out of warranty you don't want to go do a stealership JUST for a simple task like that. If you ride on track YOU MUST be able to do this and some other basics. This is a great video that goes over the "tricks" and the practical approach to this task.
Great advice, I always go for a good blast before an oil and filter change. Also change oil at half the specified interval, it's cheap insurance.
i always changed my oil when my bike was very cool...or i gave it rest say al the night and then the next morning i changed the oil...and it was my practice for the last 20+ years or more...now after watching this i will never let the bike cool down..such a clever tip..
Thank ya good sir!
As a new adventure bike owner I have needed every single one of these videos you’ve recently released.
Also changing oil on my 450RL after work tonight.
Thanks Adam!
🏍️💨
I love riding motorcycles but i was never taught about how to take care of them. Thank you for this. Im watching all of your videos. One day i wanna have my own bike that i take good care of and hopefully have so much fun as you did. I really appreciate you.
Found this gem of a channel. I don't know much so I'm sure grateful i found this.
Brilliant video. Here, in India, they always insist on changing the oil when cold!! This is such an eye opener! Couldn't have come at a better time as planning for a 1000 kms ride with considerable off-road conditions 🙏
Does no one in India bother to read service manuals?
The suggestion to only change when cold must be a safety issue for mechanics, surely. No advantage there for the customer.
Did cold change and my oil turned black in the window immediately. No wonder
No wasted words here. Every minute was informative. Much appreciated!
Some great tips Adam thanks. I think regular oil changes are one of the simplest and most important things we can do for our bikes. Learn how to do it yourself, save time and money and become familiar with your own machine👍
Good Stuff ! Straight to-it with no BS ! I was lucky that 3 of my Dads mates were A-Grade-Mechanics who built some amazing race-engines etc . They taught-me what you just showed and at 14 , I soon become the 'Free' mechanic for all my mates ! Any problems and I had 3 experts I could give a call , we did everything to our bikes and (later) cars , including engine-rebuilds . There seemed to be a lot more commonsense back in those days (I'm just cracking 70 and still ride, TR1 xv is my favorite, my Old-Man-bike is a W650) Dave NZ
Adam, my 890 had Putoline at the dealer for first service warranty validation, I switched to motorex next service but didn't like how the clutch was grabby when cold, so I went back to Motul which I used in my Gsxr stunt bike and YZ400. I'm on the 7100 10/50 - bike revs cleaner, shifts slicker, is generally noisier but hell KTM's sound like a bag of spanners anyway.
I also use the 890 for short commutes, the worst type of running for an engine. So it gets oil changes every 600 miles regardless, warm it up to boil off the condensate then thrash the arse off it. A Filter is critical at every change if doing short journeys due to the heavier content of moisture, acids and fuel dilution that occurs in short duration running (warm up enrichment)
Same if you do lots of river/creek crossing, water ingested will generally be burnt off by combustion and heat in the crankcase, but any making its way into the oil can block the filter.
People seeing blackened oil with recommended grades should check how hot their oil temp is. We found our race cars 10/50 was blackening quicker than expected and after placing temp strips on several locations we found the temps on a gallery exceeded the 50 rating, switched to 10/60 and the oil lasted between scheduled changes with no blackening.
Motul is quality gear, when I revalved my forks and shock I discovered that motul was one of the few manufacturers whose grades actually met the correct cSt viscosity values required by WP.
Adam, Thank you for the brilliant videos, I've learned so many valuable tips over the past year. It's s great having people like you taking time from their lives and providing good solid information. It's truly appreciated. Here's a tiny tip that was provided to me by a WW2 vet to who I always listened very attentively when I was a mechanics apprentice for a small family garage. He always prefilled the oil filters. He explained when you removed the filter it had oil in it so it's best to install the filter with oil in it so it's ready to lubricate the engine once it's started. ( Grant F also stated in the comments ) Just my 2 cents. Keep up the great work.
@Terry Willefert When i replaced the turbo on my Saab i unplugged the ignition cassette so that i could crank over the engine without it starting until i built up sufficient oil pressure, could probably do the same with oil changes if you want to be extra safe with dry filters.
I'd probably do that if it wasn't for the fact that most of the stuff i own has either sideways or upside down filters
I love you mate....always clear, concise information with an Ozzie twist! 👍👍
You have so much good tips!
I've been riding for +15years and I never knew those little tricks
Thanks for also explaining WHY you should have warm oil and so fort :)
Keep it going man. I love your channel
Your explanation makes perfect sense to anyone but how many people actually do it the right way? Thanks for the video.
Also clean the threads of the oilfilter with a cloth. there often are metal flakes on it from factory threating. you do not want that in your fresh maintained engine!
Thanks for the List!!! Very good Info, every Biker should know (or any driver in that case)
Wonderful vid! I take exception with a couple of minor things though.
First off I always would advise using the factory recommended oil type and viscosity. There are tolerances inside engines that absolutely depend on it. So no, I would not use a higher viscosity unless i had an old or failing engine.
And as far as filter bypasses go. You don't quite hit the fine point. Though you are close. It's rare and unusual for an oil filter to completely stop filtering as you seemed to state. There may be a time when someone goes too long an interval and gets a partial restriction. That is rare, and when it happens the bypass system allow enough oil by the filter to allow the engine to lubricate itself and survive. but there will still be some filtering going on and some of the wear particles will be collected during bypass.
Butr your main point is true and well said. Hot oil carries away the most contamination. So true.
That's what I thought also, if a oil filter routinely quits filtering in not much time engines would never last.
Something has to be going on to plug an oil filter. Shouldnt be that much debris coming off inside a good engine.
If you slip the clutch hard and regular then yeah, clutch parts try to go throughout the engine.
I will never do that to my 890. Only on 2 strokes do I use a clutch like that, but at low revs.
I generally sell my bikes before worrying about engine lifespan but educational vid none the less. Another great watch . 👌
Same here. I don’t even keep them long enough to need a valve adjustment. There’s a lot of life left in the engine when I swap them for something new. As far as oil changes I simply follow the manual, never had an issue.
Your description of the[ Gruel left in the motor]is without Parallel. clutch plate particules ,followed up with gear box steel shavings grinding their way thru the motor, not to mention the oil filter false sense of defence against such an attack. LOVED it Adam. I learn something new every time. your fan PARC ADV
I read many of the comments, but what I didn't see mentioned is this:
Loosen, or remove the oil fill cap when draining the old oil. This allows air to enter the crankcase and the old oil to drain smoother, without the "chugging" action at the end.
Helps to splash less this way, when it's nearly all drained.
Like trying to pour milk out of a bottle without letting air in, it will glug-glug-glug rather than pour.
As others have mentioned, DO add oil to the new oil filter, too. Give your motor a head start in being lubricated.
Lastly, I've never felt the need to use a wrench to install a new oil filter. Drives me crazy trying to muscle off a used oil filter, or drive a screwdriver through it to lever it off due to it being overtightened. Hand tight then snug with 2 hands; the entire thread will hold it on fine because heat expands it all.
None of my oil filters have ever leaked, just because I didn't tighten it down with a wrench.
AWESOME! Very important information, I learned something new!
1.) Paper oil filters are the only good ones. Don't use fiberglass or synthetics. Paper filters filter the most fine particles and are nearly impossible to put into bypass, because there are so many folds and spaces for particulates, compared to other newer synthetic elements. (see actual tests).
2.) Motul 7100 and 300V oil only in streetbikes. Only Motul oil. 300V oil does show literally half as much wear in a straight friction test hot and cold, that I observed, using the standard "wear scar" test. The wear scar was less than half as deep for both the hot and cold tests on 300V oil compared to 7100. Both are good oils. 7100 is slightly thicker and may be quieter. 300V is a thinner oil, for maximum horsepower.
3.) OEM oil filters are all plain paper. Because paper is the best.
4.) HiFlo brand oil filters are paper, and are similar, but even stronger constructed to OEM's.
When you change oil at that temp you are at higher risk of damaging the threads, steel vs aluminium. A long drain time is also effective, I also rotate the engine using the engine where you set valve timing. Always gets a good trickle
Great info! I have always gone for a good ride before changing the oil and filter mostly just to make sure it good and hot so i can get all of the old oil out. One more thing i do it sit on the bike while its draining and tip it from side to side. You would be suprised how much more trapped oil comes out.
Great video. I guess people need reminding of the basics sometimes, so that is timely and logical.
Loving your technical insights and maintenance videos. They are pure value because they help me 'understand' why I should do something in a particular way. Cheers from Holland.
one of my fav channels on youtube! never miss a fortnine or ariemann1 video
I suppose i should use this rare opportunity when im early to tell you that as a newbie rider i found your video,s enjoyable and to a certain degree useful (i have yet to really learn or try most stuff from all the guides you made,let alone have a suitable vehicle for some of the things)
Ill comeback to it when need be.
most educational bike related videos on internet . had been following you for long always happy to see your contents
Thankyou
For me, changing the oil is a pain the backside (literally), but your knowledge and methodical approach shows how simple and important it is ... and so it becomes fun.
In 30 years of wreching there is just ONE engine that I changed cold without running it. New to me diesel lawnmower that I know had been poorly maintained. Fresh oil and did not change filter. Ran it with with that combo for an hour and got crude out of crankcase. Changed oil and filter and oil is still a nice amber color 100+ hours later.
Good advice to do it hot after a harder ride. I bought the 5-25Nm torque wrench for like 20$ and i am sure i don't overtighten both the drain and filter cover screws, that are 25Nm for drain and 5Nm for cover screws. I tend to overtighten everything because i had 250 Jawa that shaken everything off unless it was super tight.
When i was young i used to watch my Father change the oil in FJ,EJ & HD, he would always take the car for a drive to get the engine warm & then drain the oil, i always do this on my car, van & dirtbikes :)
My HX 1 Tonner was still going @ 937,000 klms, i always let my cars & dirtbikes drain over night, i even put a bit of air through the dirtbikes to get some more oil out :)
I have heard that new cars can only go a couple of hours while draining the oil, or you will have problems because of the oil filter/electronics set up ?
Touratech bash plate is what I have, so worth it.
Very good knowledge you have, I change the oil after a hot steady day in the UK and even if the manual says 6k miles to change,I still change mine at 1k miles 👍.
Sump plug bolt, I drilled small hole and lockwired it, Not Rm80 experience but yz125.
I just learnt a very critical thing about changing engine oil hot and not cold!! Awesome!
Good explanation of why the oil should be hot. You convinced me.
THANKS !
Greetings from France
Great video, and absolutely wicked bike!
The only thing I do extra… is fill the new filter with new oil before I put it on. Even my horizontal mount ones like yours. You can fill it to the top, and it will soak it up enough to not spill when spinning it on. Avoid those crucial few seconds of it running not getting oil right away due to the element in the filter soaking it up first. I also soak my canister type ones on my BMW as well. But that’s just me. 🤷♂️
Cheers 🍻
Looks like the oil level is directly in line with the middle of the filter on your bike. I guess in this case it would prime itself.
Great vid brother. I also have a T7. I put some oil in the filter before installation.
Not necessary
@@Africatwinrider1 To each their own. We all have rituals. This is mine. You do you.
It's easier to top up after the engine runs for a bit and the oil filter has been filled up by the pump
I pour oil into the filter as well. Is it necessary? I don' t know, but it certainly can't hurt.
I enjoyed from Kenya the article especially having to bring the engine to operating temperatures.
I always replace a filter every oil change but i never thought about how quick it might get blocked. I always change oil long before the book says SO I dont think a filter blocks that quickly. But i don't ride anywhere near as hard as you.
Great video and im glad it confirms my oil change habits.
Motul: Never liked it. Always seemed thin and engine was nosier. My xr400m clutch would slip on it (Had a built Motor), My ktm 690, husky te510 engine was very loud, Even on the 10w - 60. Went to penrite and it has been fantastic and a little cheaper.
Yeah mate, the accumulation of debris is exponential - the more cold oil changes are done, the more particles stay in your motor and basically block your filter quicker each time they're replaced.
I've been riding for only lil about 3 years or so and I was always told to change oil on cold without giving any sort of explanation lol. I guess is never too late to learn, thanks for the free lessons man! Love your vids keep 'm comin!
Does your owners manual say to change oil cold or is that something you heard somewhere?
@@bradboustead1682 heard. The "owners manual" I got when I got the bike was super basic sadly.
Good tips, I like watching your vids. Some day I need to come to Australia too.
Additionally, I always fill up the bone dry filter three times till is soaked up and oil level doesnt drop anymore in the upright filter, no matter if its mounted vertically or horizontally. Turn it fast and it wont spill out while mounting :)
Everyone and his mother starts his engine cold, AFTER he puts on all the gear, helmet gloves etc.. Start it before you put your gear on, at least gloves and helmet, except you are on the run. Oil needs a while to reach what is far away, like camshaft journals.
And, don´t start any engine with extra throttle. If you need extra throttle to make it look cooler for some pedestrians, or dudes who don´t care anyway, do it. But an engine that needs extra throttle to start, isnt tuned properly, and shows the owner has no clue what he is doing, period. When starting it, there is metal in contact with metal, extra load makes it worse.
Regarding the oil, that is black again after the first ride. When coolant temperature is high enough in any fancy display, oil temp by far isnt, it takes way longer. Well, in an engine with about 3,5 litres of oil capacity for a change with filter, about 3,3l for change without filter, (who ever does that?) and about 4,2 liter for a dry engine, you can imagine what color your 3,5 litres of fresh, clear, red or whatever oil, will look after you put 0,7litres of black oil into it... guess what? Its almost as black again in the small level window. Im a professional bike mechanic, having my own workshop, not self tought like most dudes around the world, normally working on cars, fork lifts or lawn mowers. But... what do I know, compared to some real office dude pros reading reddit ;)
Ive been doing this 55 years, ride the bike warm it up, drain the oil remove the filter add oil to the filter if vertical almost fill it horizontal 1/2 cup, hand tighten filter new crush washer tighten with torque wrench if you don't have the feel. You could change filter every other change and still not have an over used filter. Coat the filter seal with a slight coat check base plate wipe off make sure seal from old filter didn't stick to the metal when it was removed.
Absolutely gold stuff. Thank you, Sir! As a happy owner of a 2 years old motorcycle, I'm gonna do my own maintenance, starting with oil change,thanks to your valuable insides.
life circumstances have forced me to sell my T7. Love your videos! So good explanations, simple but good edition! Good job! Looking forward for the next one.
I am taking the dipstick off as well while the oil plug and filter are out. Great video, thank you!
Thank you Adam for your shorter super helpful videos as of late. For someone without an engine-guru around growing up this are so valuable!
That was preaching a life lesson to anyone! Its the blood of an engine next is air! Well said Sir
Every so often you come across a channel with brilliant info where you learn a load no matter how much youve learnt in the past :) thanks for taking the time to share gradually working my way through the videos superb work an info. I got my 300 rally back from a dealer the other week after its first service usually do all my own work an noticed how filthy the oil was after its first service in the window, my dads bro who raced Nortons always hammered it into my mind to change them hot, ill try the fan trick on the rally this week.
Good tutorial... just one not insignificant thing. When you drain the oil on side stand, there will be some leftover in the engine pan. Put it on centerstand or hold it vertical for a moment to drain it all.
I've always changed my oil after 20+ minutes commutes, with one exception where the bike was sitting cold, started the engine and let it run for 5-10 minutes, then started to change the oil and filter afterwards, I was surprised that the oil got immedietly black, now this explains everything.
👍🏼✌🏻
Oil filters should come off by hand, and therefore on by hand 😊
Great presentation, well done. If i could add a littlte tip it would be to put some fresh oil into your filter before you install it. That way the engine oil will circulate easier through it when you fire up.
KTM has some crazy custom filters that look like nothing else. I'm sure the same principle applies. Thanks for the tip!
Filter and oil drain plug both have torque specs, and really should be followed.
Very interesting. About to change the oil/filter on my Buell XB12X after a long storage. I'll follow your advice to the letter.
First off-roader I've seen wearing pyjamas.
Such a gem of a video. Thank you sir, salute.
Great tips. I think the crush washer I'm using is original. Also getting a magnetic drain bolt is a handy way to collect the heavier dirt. Changing oil in all my vehicles basically like this. Shit is too expensive to just trade it in every couple years.
What's everyone's mileages on their one lungers?
2011 KLR with 106000km. Had it's first two oil changes with Kawasaki synthetic and paper filters. Then switched to Amsoil and stainless filter. Roughly around 20k I switched to Rotella T4 as Amsoil or other synthetics are too much money and unrealistic for regular use and travel. However I aquired an older GasGas and will run Amsoil in it because 1. It's a Europrincess
2. It's a weekend bike
3. The cost per mile will be significantly lower
That's pretty good, my R1 has 166,000 k's on it and I only ever change the oil when cold, halve the suggested oil change intervals and use Motul synthetic. Runs as good as the day I bought it.
An ARiemann1 video a day keeps the ticking motors away :)
Great video and awesome explanation, thanks for sharing the knowledge. Subscribed! 👍👍
110 % all true ..... i change oil by my self all life... i have never isues.. my 690 have 145.000km ..... and runs like a new bike..
I change oil every cca 2000km....
This is recept for a long life..and never forget.. no cold to maximum... first 10minuts easy...then- BRAAAAAAAAP ! 😅
I both enjoyed your video and learned a lot from it. I respect what you said most of the time, because I see a lot of sense in all of your advise, but what I was taught and I have witnessed in my life (sorry car guy here, but the oil filters seem quite the same), you should never, NEVER use any tool , that you've used untightening the oil filter, or you are going to use it for, you never use a tool to tighten the oil filter. Just tighten it by hand. Use however much force you can put to it, but just with your bare hands. Because when you tighten a fresh new filter, the O-ring if soft and the lube it has on it, or the oil that has leaked over the surface it pushes towards to, makes it slide easily. This oil or lube is trapped there and after a year or 5000 kilometres it is going to be baked and stuck. The rubber O-ring is now going to be plastic-hard. Now is when you need that tool.
But out of that, thanks for the great tips.
Yep. I did that. Spent lots of $ on racing oil and noticed it was dark after my 1st ride. I just blamed it on the oil and said nope not gonna buy that brand again. Thanks for this top tip! Now I gotta go change my oil again.
I wish I could ride half that well - full send, all the time! Great tips on engine maintenance, much appreciated. I use a telescoping magnetic "pickup" tool for the last few threads when removing the oil plug
If anyone can recommend an excellent ADV training course within 100 kms of Vancouver (Canada), I would appreciate it!
I think Brett Tacs the utuber on the older GS lives around Seattle. I could be wrong but an excellent teacher and rider.
Great episode. Lots of knowledge put in a short period of time, and entertaining. Thanks, Günter, Nürnberg/Germany