Mazda2 | Bleed/Flush your brakes the right way!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- Older, conventional methods don’t apply when it comes to bleeding or flushing the modern braking system of a Mazda2. Here’s how to do it correctly and not even need a friend to help! Enjoy!
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Wow, I was just about to replace my pads, rotors, and brake fluid. I didn't know it was a dual line system. Thank you so much! You made me love my 2 again!
There was a time when you didn’t love it? For shame! Haha
Glad to help!
@@HiroshimaSpirit Well I bought a truck and soon realized how easy the 2 was to maintain. Parts are cheap and the process is simple. You can't beat it. I discovered your channel when you posted that back seat removal tutorial and it saved me so much money on my road trip to Yellowstone. Again, thank you very much for your time and effort!
Greetings from Ireland. Many thanks for sharing your knowledge, I watched a few of the mazda 2 vids and was able to sort my wife's car troubles right out, earning some brownie points to boot. I wish you all the best for the future. Thanks again Paddy... 👍👍👍👍
Talk about timely. I was planning to do this this weekend on my Mazda2. Thanks for the info
No worries! Glad to help. ✌🏻
Maybe throw in a cabin/ air / fuel filter swap! Because you explain it very well and there are not many explanation on the net for the mazda 2 version we got on an easy and understanding manner. Thank you for your effort!
I’ve done those already, except the fuel filter, because I haven’t needed to change it. It’s in the tank, and unless the car is running poorly, most just leave it be. Every video I’ve made about the 2 is compiled in a playlist. 👍🏻
HiroshimaSpirit sorry i didn't look very well, 1 question i have a hard time to find led headlights for this car, because i can't really the answer about if you need an projector for led bulbs or not, maybe you now about it?
If you can find a quality LED headlight set that’s bright enough to light the road, I would definitely recommend them only in a projector housing. Much like HIDs, you stand a good chance of blinding other drivers with super bright bulbs in a reflector housing.
I recomend you Philips Ultinon leds. They're a bit expensive, but quality is great, and they light the road better than halogen Philips Xtreme Racing Vision. About regulations, I can't say anything for USA, but in Europe, I had no problems even with the restrictive laws in Spain. About the bulbs itself, they don't blind any other driver, even in our reflection headlights. They direct the light almost perfectly. I let you the link where I bought them.
www.ebay.es/itm/Genuine-PHILIPS-H4-Ultinon-Essential-LED-HL-6000K-Hi-Lo-Beam-Light-Bulb-x2-Agtc/263731176589?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
And some pics from my own 2 in a spanish forum.
www.forocoches.com/foro/showthread.php?p=304709044&highlight=#post304709044
Another great video! Thanks!
Thanks for watching! ✌🏻
Great Video
Got one question is the order of sides is the same in UK version?
Great video. You make it sound so simple. How about for right hand drive vehicles? Like in Australia? It is the opposite?
Same deal but opposite, yes.
could u do a video on a headlight bulb replacement???
I have already. 👍🏻
Hello, very useful information in this video! Thank you for that. I have a Mazda 2 2020 and will be doing this brake flushing very soon. I had a question tho. Your Mazda is a manual, right? Doesn't the clutch pedal fuel use the same reservoir as the brake fluid reservoir? Aren't you supposed to also flush the clutch then somehow? Cheers!
Yes, they share the same reservoir. You can do both at the same time, but you don’t have to.
@@HiroshimaSpirit Damn you're fast, thank you for your reply! The valve to bleed the clutch, is it located somewhere close to the engine oil drain plug? For this I would have to jack it up, right?
It’s on the front side of the gearbox, should be an orange cap. Clutch slave cylinder.
Wat brake pads do u recommend for the front ,I've been having a hard time with it .the rims get all nasty from brake dust .I questing that's wat it is
The rear brake bleed screws are 8mm. 8mm~0.3150". 5/16"=0.3125". A 5/16" will be a tight fit on an 8mm hex screw. Or it won't go on it. 8mm wrench will be loose on a 5/16" hex and is more likely to round the corners off.
@hiroshimaspirit nice vid. I need new struts for my Mazda 2, what do you recommend?
For OEM replacement, you can’t go wrong with KYB. For performance? Koni or just upgrade to coilovers.
Slightly off topic, but is that one bottle of Motul RBF600 enough assuming you're gonna fully drain the system? I can't seem to find the fluid capacity in my owner's manual :(
Good question! I’m not too sure. If you’re planning on a full flush, it’s always good to have plenty of fluid. I ended up with about half of that 500ml bottle after making this video.
@@HiroshimaSpirit thanks! Every bit of info helps. This is going to be my first time draining my brake fluid since it was newly replaced during the time I got my 2. I got 2 bottles of Motul Dot4 atm which should be sufficient.
Hi, thanks for your video.
Today I've tried to bleed my 2010 mazda 2, because the pedal feels spongy. I already told to do that at two mechanics but that was always the same, so I decided to do that by myself to be sure that it's done.
The problem is that if the engine is off, after some pumping on the pedal it becomes stiff, and no oil comes out of the valve.
I don't understand how to do that with the car turned off.
The pedal becomes stiff because there’s no vacuum powering the booster. Imagine NOT having power brakes, and there you go. If the bleeder is open, fluid will come out.
@@HiroshimaSpirit But I can't depress the pedal, even with the bleeder opened. Do I need to bleed the brakes with engine on ?
You should be able to. I don’t do it with the engine running.
May be the valve gets clogged with rust. In an old car this may happen if fluid have not changed for long time.
Hi met nice video! Just a quick one. My Mazda 2 2010 is right hand drive. So what order would I need to bleed them in? Thanks
Opposite. It’s just a mirror of LHD.
@@HiroshimaSpirit could you just detail me which one I should do 1st 2nd 3rd 4th please, just to make sure I do it properly
Do you know the capacity of the brake fluid in that Mazda 2? I want to clear all the old dark fluid till I see clean oil coming out of the bleeding nut and I wanna know if I should buy 2 bottles of 16oz or 1 is enough. Thanks.
A 500ml will do it.
@@HiroshimaSpirit That was quick! Thanks!!
How difficult is it to adjust the handbrake cable and tighten it up?
Shouldn’t be too difficult. I’ve done it on other cars I’ve owned in the past, but not to either of the 2s.
Is it done from inside the car, or underneath?
Inside the car. There should be an adjustment nut at the handbrake handle. I’ve had a couple of people ask about this recently and the green car needs adjustment, so that might just be my next video.
At least the front of the center console will have to be removed to access the nut, if not all.
Thanks for the info. That's one of the things I'm going to look at doing. Might look at changing transmission fluid as well.
Hello, i like you videos very! But i have some questions about the mazda 2. I hope you can/help me! Does the abs systeem of the mazda 2 don't have a specially way too bleed? I saw a lot on the internet of bleeding with abs with a pc? I have also a big problem with my clutch pedal. Ever time when i bleed the brake/ clutch systeem. The first couple of 200km is the car Just driving very fine but after that the clutchpedal will become harder to push. It's very frustrated because i have already changes the hole clutch system twice and changes the clutch slave and master cilinder. I changes the rear brake cilinders and i put a revision kit for my front brake calipers but nothing helps! I'm realy thinking to say goodbye to the mazda 2. I hope so hard that you can help me! Greetings from Holland
This video covers the correct way to bleed the brakes on the 2. 👍🏻 These cars are very reliable and easy to repair, so maybe take it to a mechanic if you can’t get it to work yourself. I don’t know what your problem could be.
I will try tomorrow to bleed the system including the clutch in this way you show me on the video. If this not helps i will brim him to a mazda dealer.
Did you sort your clutch problem? I have the same thing, I’ve not done any repairs to it yet so trying to scope out what it could be.
is the order same with right hand drive vehicle? thanks
RHD would be mirrored to this, but yes, same general process.
thank you so much!
... never use any bottles from drinks - there is a risk anybody could drink from it ... believe me!
Be safe without any risk ...
Just a quick one!
I've had my mazda 2 now since November last year, I keep getting vibrations through my steering wheel, I've changed the suspension ball joints, brake discs and pads, tracking wheel alignment the whole shibang and it still vibrates when I accelerate past 40mph and when I brake it's even worst? any advice I've tried everything possible even had new tyres all around.
Are the wheels/tires properly balanced and have you checked the wheels for any bends?
I can’t imagine what would be vibrating above 40mph that’s also worse when braking, especially with all of those things being replaced. I’m not a trained mechanic and I’m not there to see the car, so I can only guess. Sorry!
@@HiroshimaSpirit I think the next possibility might be to have the front tyres swapped with the back tyres I had budget landsail tyres on the front and still have old Bridgestone on the back? I've had them balanced very strange though to be honest, it cant be the alloys as I had them refurbed last month who knows! Thanks though!
@@dully7583 do you get a shake like left and right motion, or just vibration? Because for me it was like a vibration or someone "tapping" on the steering wheel vertically, i solved by replacing the passenger side mount with the OEM one from mazda, others don't work. And also stuffing with more rubber between the tank and the chassis. Mazda already knows it vibrates there because they put three pieces of rubber, but as the car ages seems not to work anymore.
@@Starfank that is a good point, mine vibrates evenly like absolutely evenly left to right and high speeds then as I slow down, it goes, I can also hear a slight friction noise now that from the right side that goes round in circles like almost like the pads are sticking slightly to the discs, I had my calibres painted orange to go with the car and I've had my alloys returned black, so there's no bend in the alloys and I've changed the disc and pads and decided to go with brembo, could it be an issue with the drums on the back?
I just try and guess I'm sick of tired of going to garages and they just turn round and not bothered by it, there's isn't many trusted garages around here and I'm not paying Halfords £500 for a job no chance.
@@dully7583 tie rod ends worn
What’s the diameter of the hose you used?
No idea. I just eyeballed it. It’s typical fish tank hose or something.
should I do this with the engine on or off?
Off
@@HiroshimaSpirit thankyou so much
Bro, what do you think about ECU tunning? and exhaut?
I think I can’t afford ECU tuning! Haha
It’s definitely worth the money if you can swing it, though. And exhausts? A must! Are you looking for recommendations?
OMG, thanks for the good response, yes
I'm looking for recommendations, i want to make it a little bit faster, the car is perfect as is, but i want a litle bit more punch, maybe put it up to 130hp area, with the low weight is enough for me for now... just a fun car for twistes
i was searching for a procharger like stuff, a belt driven turbo could be easy and fast to do...
Forced induction isn’t as cut and dry for the 2 as it might seem. For pretty much any kind of supercharger you have to give up air conditioning to make room for the pulley and a turbo kit will be a bunch of custom work as well.
An intake, exhaust, and tune will wake the car up a bit but to get into the 130whp range you’d have to also be looking at cams and stuff which is all expensive as well. Unless you’re willing to spend a ton of money, a 2 isn’t going to be a “fast” car, but with the basics it’s still going to be quick and fun.
There aren’t many choices out there for exhausts, so you can do some research here on YT for sound clips and choose which one you like, or just have a custom one made. It’s all up to you.
i will put my car up today to see some things on the suspension, and will try to draw a kinda of turbo downpipe desing, i dont want to put the turbo up, it could be hiden behind the block and using the maximun space from the cat for the desing of the downpipe, very small or just small turbo for 160hp max... in the interior i'm going for recaro o sparco reclinable leather sport seats, yes they are expensive but i really love the 2, i think is a lot more cute and fun than a civic or other small cars out there...
That rear drum brake bleeder valve being imperial is such a nuisance. The clutch, front disk, and rear drum all have different valves on a JDM Axela... so stupid.
100% agree!
It's because Ford Motor Company is responsible for the back of that car. Pretty much everything on the axle back is FoMoCo. And they do the monumentally ridiculous thing of using soft-metal Phillips screws to hold on the rear drum. I had to cut both of mine off with a friggen angle grinder, because I was unable to get off those stupid screws with impact driver, or even with an extractor. The screws self-welded to the bearing!
Its a 8mm m8
Hi how much fluid to change all the brake fluid system, and does the clutch slave cylinder use the same reservoir as the brakes?
The clutch slave does use the same reservoir. Any 500ml bottle is more than enough.
hi man anyway a i dm you about this i’m quite worried
I’m not sure what you’re asking with that comment, sorry.
sorry i was wondering if i could Direct message you and have a chat about this video ?
Ah, I see. What’s your question? We might not have to talk at length about it.
it’s not really a question i am a apprentice for mazda in the uk and have never bled or seen brake bled like that we all do it the “old fashioned way”
2 you would probably be better off using new brake fluid to put in your cup rather than taking our brake fluid out of the master cylinder and to look up to at least one third of the cup so if you accidentally move the pipe around there is no chance air getting in to it .that’s all
sorry for my really bad english
I learned this method from a fellow 2 owner who is a master mechanic and recommended it. A factory service manual diagram of the braking system even shows two separate lines as I described them in the video.
As far as the bleed bottle, yes, there probably could have been more, possibly fresh, fluid. The hose was also tightly sealed to the bleed bottle, so there is no chance of it moving around if the one-person bleeder is made properly. I had no issues in either of those regards.