I have a 2004, 2 door Echo hatchback in Canada. We got the 1.5 liter in all models. I just changed the clutch and Discovered the bushings are bad. Now I can change them without removing the sub frame again. Thanks mate!!
Thanks a lot man this worked well for my 02’ Echo had to do some bushings and links and wanted to see someone else’s method before I tried. Earns a like from me 🍻
Wonderful video! Concise, well explained. The car is so reliable that I just cant imagine getting rid of it, and yet, of course some things like these bushings do need fixing on an oldie like this one... Many thanks for posting the guide!
Thanks mate. It's worth saying that after a few miles and once the suspension had settled it felt a bit sloppy. I tightened the 13mm nuts on the drop link arms a bit more and that really helped. I think to be honest (and this is a good while after making this video) it needs new dampers too. Watch this space!
Greeting from Canada. I need to replace the sway bar bushings on my 2004 toyota echo. I just wonder if it is necessary to take out the sway bar link before removing the sway bar bushing. Also, can I just drive the car on a pair of ramps instead of jacking the car up? Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.
Great video bud,one question,where abouts did you place axle stands as doing the same job this weekend and want to know the spot you place axle stands.
I had a look at your video to see how hard this job would be as this is an advisory on a Yaris I'm thinking of buying. I haven't got your equipment so I'll give this Yaris a miss and get another. You've probably saved me a lot of time and money, thanks.
wittywilf the yaris is a really good car for the money, just on some parts, u shouldn't buy cheap, and replace with good factory parts.so far everything been easy to fix yourself.
These bushes should never be greased and when changing them to set the right tension the car should be lifted with wheels on the ramps and not in the air. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Un bonjour de France, je vais réaliser prochainement le changement des silent-blocs de la barre stabilisatrice, et le changement des biellettes. Je vais d' abord passer commande d' une clé dynamométrique adéquate. J' ai la revue technique de ma Toyota Yaris, ou Écho de l' autre côté de l' Atlantique. Merci pour cette vidéo, et vos précieux conseils. 👍
I changed both links today and the clicking sound over small bumps is still there... Can I change bar's bushings without touching links? (I spent far too much time today removing those old ones, it was a horror)
Hey ive been flustered with this car for a long time. I did the exact same thing you did. All the sounds went away, the thing is when im driving at higher speeds and let off the gas pedal the car swings to the right then back to the same place when i get back on the gas. I have no idea ive taken it apart like 6 times now. Any help is appreciated. The washer and rubber order on the sway bar links are in the correct order.
good video my cars due for mot in next 2 weeks if it fails on these i think i can now tackle it myself thanx for posting,the way i would try it myself if i have to replace the drop links is first try to undo the top nut first because its under tension and if that works would then try to undo the bottom nut next cos much easier to try to tackle that bottom nut afterwards and cut it off,for those that have not got a saw like that you can get a nut splitter of ebay ,excellent tutorial tho
Great tutorial. Did the worn bushings affect anything on the vehicle? I'm having a major problem with pulsing in my rotors, 3 sets in 50000km with new pads once, even wheel bearings to try to get rid of the issue. Even tried some better than garbage rotors...same issues. Mechanic insist that changing bushings will not affect it. Calipers are not seized and car tracks straight under hard breaking. I followed a proper break in procedure with the last set, issue has developed once more. Any advice would be great! Also, you should refer to which side of the car you're working on as left or right instead of drivers side, for us left hand drive folks! Thanks again from Canada.
Haha, it's difficult to remember not to say driver/passenger side or offside/nearside after 30 years of driving. I will make the effort though! Back to your brakes: I'm a bit stumped, I didn't drive this Yaris far before the suspension work, so I don't know how if felt. It sounds like warped or cracked discs (rotors), but you've changed them. I'd dismantle, clean, grease and rebuild the calipers next. Bit boring I know, unless anybody can suggest anything else?
I sure wish it was this easy on the 07 yaris instead it has the Corolla setup where sway bar link is attached to the side of the strut housing. So it does you no good to disconnect the sway bar link. I just can't find a tool that will fit in the sway bar bushing area no matter how hard I try!!! I've been driving the car with bad sway bar bushings for like 50,000 miles it's really annoying but every mechanic says drop the subframe which is 1,000 plus dollars ugh
hi bud,would this be the same set up on a toyota aygo,as my sons car needs new anti roll bar bushes,as it was an advisory on last years mot,so need to get it done,thanks for the video by the way...cheers.
+Alaxy Galaxy Yes, you could. Obviously you would need to have the front wheels off and the car lifted otherwise the ant-roll bar might be a bit tight against the mountings. Personally I would use Red Grease on rubber bushes and loosen, then re-tighten after a few miles on the road.
I would definitely change both sides, even if one side looks OK it will be worn and therefore move differently to the new part, potentially leading to uneven handling.
Great video many thanks for posting this. ive got a question about the drop link assembly kit... where did you get yours from and how much should they cost roughly? Toyota want about £150 for the drop link parts!! where the same (albeit non genuine) parts are available on ebay etc for a fraction. seems like the toyota ones are made of gold or something!
Rob 6rr Thanks mate. Off the top of my head I can't remember exactly, but I'm pretty sure they came from eBay. I seem to remember the whole lot including the bushes came to less than 30 quid.
excellent video but i would never use a rachet spanner to start to undo a nut,i would use a normal spanner to start to undo a nut then use a rachet spanner afterwards if the nut is not loose enough to turn by hand,cos if you use rachet spanner first you are gonna get thru a lot of rachet spanners
Helpful video. I just did these on my sister in-laws echo. A bit unclear on how tight or how much torque to use. Torqued under the weight of the vehicle is also recommended I’m pretty sure. I was lucky enough to not have to cut anything as well :)
Thanks. Yes I agree it's not clear, I took it for a bit of a drive then tigtened some more. At the MOT test a few weeks later I was advised to tighten further still, which I did.
@@ShedTV I like it when the different points of view come together to make things better overall. I liked this video in being able to see what is under the front of the yaris before tackling our own. It seems to be a bit knocking on the front end in / out of the drive way recently and I thought probably sway bar mount bushes.
French build must have a diff power steering pipe layout as on the wife's Japanese Built 2000 Yaris there is a pair of powersteering hardlines right above the rear bush bolt on the drivers side, only thing that I could see that *might* get access to that bolt would be a flare nut spanner but it might be too thick to get in...and I'm not disconnecting the entire powersteering pipework...passenger side replaced, drivers side looks to be in good shape and ARB no longer moves by hand. Not ideal, but a lot of work to get access
In all honesty I can't remember, it's a few years ago! It's clearly further forward and inboard of the jacking points I agree. Maybe it's on the subframe.
Can you help me that I have toyota vitz 2000 model Japanese model but it does not has roll bar , but I want to replace it with roll bars, so what i need to replace it with roll bars.
Sorry I don't think I can help much. It was five years ago and the Yaris is long gone. Must be an exploded diagram of the suspension on the internet though.
You could have mentioned turning the wheel to full lock, so the drive shaft is not in the way of accessing the drop link top nut. And that the droplink nuts are 14mm, but ARB bolts are 12mm. But otherwise, very useful vid.
I'm not sure that turning the wheel lock makes much difference to the top nut access; the drive shaft remains in the same place relative to the drop link, but as you you can see by my moving of the lock at various points in the video, it is possible to gain easier access in and around the hub. For clarification, as I explain at 2:50 the ARB bolts are 12mm, as are the drop link nuts (4:30) and the replacement drop link came with 13mm nuts (11:10). This was a French built car, maybe other models differ. Thanks for your comments.
That's what I was hoping. So, just remove the horseshoe brackets and push up the bar enough to remove/replace the bushes. My wife's 2000 Yaris had the bushes replaced in 2013 and the garage says they are already a warning on the MOT (past two years). Don't fancy paying them again for a job that only lasts 3 to 4 years.
Also at 3:13 you could of used a small pipe wrench to bite the bottom threaded part of the link, then a flare wrench or vice grips to twist the top nut off. Thats what i did here, of course cutting it off works too :D
I didn't bother including it in the film, but I tried all manner of grips on it and they all slipped off, it was really badly corroded and the nut wouldn't budge. The saw was a last resort; I had tried everything else!
You’ve made your video on the easy side….the passenger side is a nightmare for the ARB bushes due hydronic lines directly above the rear bolt…..hence the need to drop the subframe
They came assembled like that and I kept one in the packaging for reference while I fitted the other. Unless they were both assembled wrongly to begin with...
I bow to your better knowledge, I have no point of reference; I simply compared the new kit and the order of components to what was on the car before dismantling and it was exactly the same. Of course it's possible that the car had been fitted with an identical incorrect kit in the past. Thanks for your comment.
![How to change front anti roll bar link / front drop link on TOYOTA AYGO 1 (AB10) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/G_lADw6-6qw/mqdefault.jpg)
I have a 2004, 2 door Echo hatchback in Canada. We got the 1.5 liter in all models. I just changed the clutch and Discovered the bushings are bad. Now I can change them without removing the sub frame again.
Thanks mate!!
Happy days!
Thanks a lot man this worked well for my 02’ Echo had to do some bushings and links and wanted to see someone else’s method before I tried. Earns a like from me 🍻
Wonderful video! Concise, well explained. The car is so reliable that I just cant imagine getting rid of it, and yet, of course some things like these bushings do need fixing on an oldie like this one... Many thanks for posting the guide!
+borsch21 Thank you!
Thanks mate, feeling a boost to my morale after seeing your vid. Cheers from Sweden
I'm looking at buying a Yaris and read this is a common issue now I can buy one, thanks mate!
Thanks mate. It's worth saying that after a few miles and once the suspension had settled it felt a bit sloppy. I tightened the 13mm nuts on the drop link arms a bit more and that really helped. I think to be honest (and this is a good while after making this video) it needs new dampers too. Watch this space!
Greeting from Canada. I need to replace the sway bar bushings on my 2004 toyota echo. I just wonder if it is necessary to take out the sway bar link before removing the sway bar bushing. Also, can I just drive the car on a pair of ramps instead of jacking the car up? Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.
Great video bud,one question,where abouts did you place axle stands as doing the same job this weekend and want to know the spot you place axle stands.
Thanks for this, I have a '11 C1 but it's the same setup and was hoping I could do it without dropping it all. Looks like I can! Thanks!
I had a look at your video to see how hard this job would be as this is an advisory on a Yaris I'm thinking of buying. I haven't got your equipment so I'll give this Yaris a miss and get another. You've probably saved me a lot of time and money, thanks.
wittywilf the yaris is a really good car for the money, just on some parts, u shouldn't buy cheap, and replace with good factory parts.so far everything been easy to fix yourself.
Thanks a million, going to try this job on wifey's MKI Yaris tomorrow
These bushes should never be greased and when changing them to set the right tension the car should be lifted with wheels on the ramps and not in the air. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Un bonjour de France, je vais réaliser prochainement le changement des silent-blocs de la barre stabilisatrice, et le changement des biellettes.
Je vais d' abord passer commande d' une clé dynamométrique adéquate.
J' ai la revue technique de ma Toyota Yaris, ou Écho de l' autre côté de l' Atlantique.
Merci pour cette vidéo, et vos précieux conseils. 👍
Salut. Merci pour votre commentaire. Bonne chance avec ta voiture.
I changed both links today and the clicking sound over small bumps is still there... Can I change bar's bushings without touching links? (I spent far too much time today removing those old ones, it was a horror)
How do I know if links are tightened enough? Would I be able to hear anything if they lose or too tight while driving ?
Hey ive been flustered with this car for a long time. I did the exact same thing you did. All the sounds went away, the thing is when im driving at higher speeds and let off the gas pedal the car swings to the right then back to the same place when i get back on the gas. I have no idea ive taken it apart like 6 times now. Any help is appreciated. The washer and rubber order on the sway bar links are in the correct order.
I don't know I'm afraid, but it sounds scary.
good video my cars due for mot in next 2 weeks if it fails on these i think i can now tackle it myself thanx for posting,the way i would try it myself if i have to replace the drop links is first try to undo the top nut first because its under tension and if that works would then try to undo the bottom nut next cos much easier to try to tackle that bottom nut afterwards and cut it off,for those that have not got a saw like that you can get a nut splitter of ebay ,excellent tutorial tho
+Patrick Durees Thanks for your comments Patrick, good luck with the MOT.
Great tutorial. Did the worn bushings affect anything on the vehicle? I'm having a major problem with pulsing in my rotors, 3 sets in 50000km with new pads once, even wheel bearings to try to get rid of the issue. Even tried some better than garbage rotors...same issues. Mechanic insist that changing bushings will not affect it. Calipers are not seized and car tracks straight under hard breaking. I followed a proper break in procedure with the last set, issue has developed once more. Any advice would be great! Also, you should refer to which side of the car you're working on as left or right instead of drivers side, for us left hand drive folks! Thanks again from Canada.
Haha, it's difficult to remember not to say driver/passenger side or offside/nearside after 30 years of driving. I will make the effort though! Back to your brakes: I'm a bit stumped, I didn't drive this Yaris far before the suspension work, so I don't know how if felt. It sounds like warped or cracked discs (rotors), but you've changed them. I'd dismantle, clean, grease and rebuild the calipers next. Bit boring I know, unless anybody can suggest anything else?
I sure wish it was this easy on the 07 yaris instead it has the Corolla setup where sway bar link is attached to the side of the strut housing. So it does you no good to disconnect the sway bar link. I just can't find a tool that will fit in the sway bar bushing area no matter how hard I try!!! I've been driving the car with bad sway bar bushings for like 50,000 miles it's really annoying but every mechanic says drop the subframe which is 1,000 plus dollars ugh
hi bud,would this be the same set up on a toyota aygo,as my sons car needs new anti roll bar bushes,as it was an advisory on last years mot,so need to get it done,thanks for the video by the way...cheers.
Thanks. I don't know for certain, but I see from another comment says that the Citroen C1 is the same, so i'd guess that the Aygo is too.
@@ShedTV That's great,thanks for getting back to me bud,cheers.
In your opinion, could I change the centre bushes while leaving the end-link bushes tightened?
+Alaxy Galaxy Yes, you could. Obviously you would need to have the front wheels off and the car lifted otherwise the ant-roll bar might be a bit tight against the mountings. Personally I would use Red Grease on rubber bushes and loosen, then re-tighten after a few miles on the road.
+Shed Ramblings Thanks for the pro tips, I'll give that a go.
Excellent video, great to be able to refer to it to do this work
today i found the same problem but only the driver side is damaged, can i just change one or need to change all ? ty for your video m8
I would definitely change both sides, even if one side looks OK it will be worn and therefore move differently to the new part, potentially leading to uneven handling.
+Shed Ramblings done mine today both side ,i think i tight them too much tnx again m8
Great video many thanks for posting this.
ive got a question about the drop link assembly kit... where did you get yours from and
how much should they cost roughly? Toyota want about £150 for the drop link parts!!
where the same (albeit non genuine) parts are available on ebay etc for a fraction. seems like the toyota ones are made of gold or something!
Rob 6rr Thanks mate. Off the top of my head I can't remember exactly, but I'm pretty sure they came from eBay. I seem to remember the whole lot including the bushes came to less than 30 quid.
excellent video but i would never use a rachet spanner to start to undo a nut,i would use a normal spanner to start to undo a nut then use a rachet spanner afterwards if the nut is not loose enough to turn by hand,cos if you use rachet spanner first you are gonna get thru a lot of rachet spanners
great video, i will give it a go on my yaris. thanks
Amazing video, thank you!
Helpful video. I just did these on my sister in-laws echo. A bit unclear on how tight or how much torque to use. Torqued under the weight of the vehicle is also recommended I’m pretty sure. I was lucky enough to not have to cut anything as well :)
Thanks. Yes I agree it's not clear, I took it for a bit of a drive then tigtened some more. At the MOT test a few weeks later I was advised to tighten further still, which I did.
@@ShedTV Take some verniers and measure the amount of thread on each side of the nuts before taking the original end links off?
@@MV60 Yes, good point!
@@ShedTV I like it when the different points of view come together to make things better overall. I liked this video in being able to see what is under the front of the yaris before tackling our own. It seems to be a bit knocking on the front end in / out of the drive way recently and I thought probably sway bar mount bushes.
French build must have a diff power steering pipe layout as on the wife's Japanese Built 2000 Yaris there is a pair of powersteering hardlines right above the rear bush bolt on the drivers side, only thing that I could see that *might* get access to that bolt would be a flare nut spanner but it might be too thick to get in...and I'm not disconnecting the entire powersteering pipework...passenger side replaced, drivers side looks to be in good shape and ARB no longer moves by hand. Not ideal, but a lot of work to get access
Hi, where do you place your axle stands? I'm interested cos it doesn't look like it's the sill jacking points. Cheers.
In all honesty I can't remember, it's a few years ago! It's clearly further forward and inboard of the jacking points I agree. Maybe it's on the subframe.
@@ShedTV Thanks for the reply and the great video
Thanks for the video! Im gonna try this later this week.
Can you help me that I have toyota vitz 2000 model Japanese model but it does not has roll bar , but I want to replace it with roll bars, so what i need to replace it with roll bars.
Sorry I don't think I can help much. It was five years ago and the Yaris is long gone. Must be an exploded diagram of the suspension on the internet though.
@@ShedTV thanks brother for the reply , i have done it there were options to place these
Cheers for this! Just gotta get some weather to do the job now! :)
What about that same job for an American market 2007 Yaris?
Sorry I can't help you. All I know is what I learned about this model.
Thanks :) I did not know how to set it :D helped a lot ;)
You could have mentioned turning the wheel to full lock, so the drive shaft is not in the way of accessing the drop link top nut. And that the droplink nuts are 14mm, but ARB bolts are 12mm. But otherwise, very useful vid.
I'm not sure that turning the wheel lock makes much difference to the top nut access; the drive shaft remains in the same place relative to the drop link, but as you you can see by my moving of the lock at various points in the video, it is possible to gain easier access in and around the hub. For clarification, as I explain at 2:50 the ARB bolts are 12mm, as are the drop link nuts (4:30) and the replacement drop link came with 13mm nuts (11:10). This was a French built car, maybe other models differ. Thanks for your comments.
Done a few of these on a yaris and never had to remove the anti roll bar nuts on the subframe. Just lever the bar up. Simples
I can see that would be possible. My subframe bushes were knocking on the bar, so I had to undo those bolts to replace the bushes.
That's what I was hoping. So, just remove the horseshoe brackets and push up the bar enough to remove/replace the bushes. My wife's 2000 Yaris had the bushes replaced in 2013 and the garage says they are already a warning on the MOT (past two years). Don't fancy paying them again for a job that only lasts 3 to 4 years.
Can someone please let me know if this model and the vios uses the same suspension parts thank you 🙏
I do not think so.
Whats great is ...you don't need a fancy hydraulic platform. Thanks.
No, but you need a bit of time!
Also at 3:13 you could of used a small pipe wrench to bite the bottom threaded part of the link, then a flare wrench or vice grips to twist the top nut off. Thats what i did here, of course cutting it off works too :D
I didn't bother including it in the film, but I tried all manner of grips on it and they all slipped off, it was really badly corroded and the nut wouldn't budge. The saw was a last resort; I had tried everything else!
Double nut on the bottom, or just do what he did at the end with the middle grip section and put a spanner in.
You’ve made your video on the easy side….the passenger side is a nightmare for the ARB bushes due hydronic lines directly above the rear bolt…..hence the need to drop the subframe
I did both sides. It's not that difficult.
What model year of Yaris is this please?
+Mark Cresswell It's a 2002 French-built RHD model for UK market.
Cheers very informative.
Thanks mate.
In my opinion the top end is mounted wrong. There is a washer too much.
They came assembled like that and I kept one in the packaging for reference while I fitted the other. Unless they were both assembled wrongly to begin with...
What about an 08?
This was an old car I was given years ago when I made the video, I don't know about any other versions. Sorry I can't help.
Bloody good job, what?
701 like is me! Tee Hee!
Drop links I think
this is the job if u dont snapped any bolts...poor me loll
Youre using to many washers. The big washer is only needed in the wishbone.
I bow to your better knowledge, I have no point of reference; I simply compared the new kit and the order of components to what was on the car before dismantling and it was exactly the same. Of course it's possible that the car had been fitted with an identical incorrect kit in the past. Thanks for your comment.