3D Printing In Wood Filament
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 มิ.ย. 2024
- Have you heard? I've been nominated for "Community Advocate" at this year's 3D Printing Industry Awards: geni.us/3DPIAwards
Printers Used:
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Alfawise U30: geni.us/AlfawiseU30GB
Artillery Sidewinder X1: geni.us/ArtilleryBG
Filament Oiler: www.thingiverse.com/thing:169...
3DMN Mini Model: www.myminifactory.com/object/...
Filaments Used:
Use code 3DMAKERNOOB at Filamentive for 15% OFF
Filamentive Light Wood: www.filamentive.com/product/l...
Fillamentum Timberfill Rosewood: fillamentum.com/collections/t...
Fillamentum Timberfill Champagne: fillamentum.com/collections/t...
Colorfabb Woodfill: colorfabb.com/woodfill
Colorfabb Corkfill: colorfabb.com/corkfill
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Your intros are getting very professional. I liked the format of this one especially. Extremely educational.
Loving the camera angle and opening sequence!
Thanks for this! I had so much stringing till I dried it out! I'll give the oiler a try as well, maybe go up my retraction from 5 to 7.
I've ran excelvan wood fill with great success on the stock 0.4mm nozzle on my ft-5. Only clog I got was when I was messing with the nozzle temp to see if I could darken it up with higher temp. I wound up turning it up too high and charing the wood fibers in the nozzle. Other than that if I left the temp settings around pla settings it printed well and layers were almost not visible printing at 0.2 layer height. I have noticed that printing hotter gave it a shiny plastic look, while printing on the lower side would give a nice matte wood like finish.
Superb content, Joseph! Big... actually, a tremendous thank you!
Hi Joseph! Great video. I have had some very good results with Hatchbox wood fill PLA as well using stock Prusa Mk3 0.4mm nozzle. Like you, I recommend drying the filament thoroughly for best results. It looks great with sanding through different grits to get a nice polished surface.
some great advices I will try out👍. thanks for the helpful vid!
Great timing Joe, I will get my first roll of wood filament tomorrow :-)
you are the only one who talks about getting wood filament to stick. I am testing 3d art's wood filament. and if there is any heat applied to the bed, the filament will NOT stick..... my first test I got to complete is a moai model on an ANET A8 with minor upgrades. at 195 on the end and 0 on the bed it sticks very well. But, at even 45 on the bed the filament would just look as if it is bubbling and even using a brim and taping it down on the brim to stay in place, the model separated from the brim and fail. but 0 degrees on the bed seems to stick well and I am 3x farther now and all looks to still be adhering to the glass and the quality is very good so far. as a newbie with my first 3d printer, I am surprised at how well this is coming out. but thank you for all of your information you put out. you are one of the most helpful people who review and share information and much appreciated.
Excellent Joe! Thanks!
Guilty of not watching as much of your work as I'd like for a while. WOW production standards have skyrocketed. Editing was good before but now even better. I am really pleased for you considering the humble beginnings you have come from. I do have one point on the subject of wood filament to make. You are in a fortunate position to have access to many types of filaments whether by affiliations,sponsorships or donations which is great. Sadly a lot of us do not so when we buy filament it is for use on a specific project. In my case I wanted wood pla from an artists perspective. I do not have the finances to try this one then that one. So when every setting from bed adhesion to nozzle size fails I have the choice of giving up or find the extra cash to buy another brand of filament and try again. I don't give in easily so from your experience is there an average profile for printing with average wood pla on an ender 3. (cura or simplify3d) If you have already made such a video please excuse me for not seeing it. I have been rather busy pulling my hair out trying to print wood:) Even if you don't I thank you for all your hard work.
Prusa mk2.5. So far using hatchbox wood pla no jams on 0.4 nozzle. I also use that same filament filter. Great little addition.
thanks for all the info
Amazing prints! Can you please also mention the temperature and flow rate etc settings you used for these!?
A good video. Would have liked to hear your brand recommendations.
Love your videos.
I've never had issues with azurefilm wood pla with Pla settings on bowden printer, 0.4 nozzle, hotend 195°C and bed 60°C, 4mm at 50mm/s retractions, 0.4-0.8 wipe.
Good video. I've been printing with wood filament for years, .4mm nozzle and the only real issues I have had were when I left the filament loaded and got a clog that was so bad I had to replace the hot end...lol it was not pretty.
What retraction speed/distance would you recommend using for wood filament? Higher than usual (=non-wood PLA) or lower than usual?
@ 2:05 me 2 hours after a meal at Taco Bell
@ 3:14 me 2 hours after a meal at Taco Bueno
What retraction speed/distance would you recommend using for wood filament (without oiling)? Higher than usual (=non-wood PLA) or lower than usual?
I've never really had problems with wood filament and a .4mm nozzle, a year or two ago I had one succesful print with a .2mm nozzle but after that I was never able to do it again. recently I've been printing a lot with brass, copper and bronze fill on a .4mm nozzle and no issues at all
Great video! The quality is surely going up!!!
trying :)
@@3DMakerNoob Compare it to your videos from 2 years ago!
funny thing is, only since the last video i found a way of how to structure a recording :)
Duuude! Those new lenses are MUCH WOW! Congratulations! Wood filament is on my "to try" list for sure; well, now more than ever! Thanks Joe!
First time running prima select natural light wood filament on my cr-10s without Oiler and 0.4mm nozzle at 50mm/s 3mm retraction 1mm coast. Fan: 60% 1st layer h/w 120% spd. 70% using S3D as slicer.
Only tried some flat parts so will try bigger parts now.
This raises an interesting question - Are filaments that present layer-adhesion difficulties bad candidates for time-lapse videos? It seems that the most technically impressive 3D printing time-lapse videos make unusual demands on a print's structural integrity. The parking of the hot end and gantry for the frame capture would appear to allow the filament to cool more than usual between layers. Is this a concern?
This particular video is a world-class presentation. Clear and detailed.
Very nice Video! Thumbs up!
You couldn't of timed out better Joe. I've got a full roll of wood pla I've yet to try out. Been to scared too lol. I've also got a bunch of larger nozzles to try out
Larger nozzles will make it easier for sure, but don’t be scared to try and fail and retry ;)
Your editing is becoming more and more professional. My girlfriend and I love your videos. Thanks for the good content.
😊wishing 6:09
also how did you manage printing perfect vertical holes?
WOOHOO, I dry mine at 60c for 6h too now the really exotic filaments, like Nylon, take longer and some of them hotter but I never use those.
I read everywhere the 0.5 nozzle is the absolute minimum, you mention it later on but pretty nice results with filament at 0.4. congrats
I'm printing a 6cm tall model that also has small text with a .25 nozzle. The filament is Esun's wood pla. There is some stringing, but it cleaned off fairly easily. I have to figure that out.
Did you notice if the extruder does make any difference?
I would expect direct extruders to have more headroom for retracts and a little more push power, interesting to be compared to geared bowden and geard direct extruders
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing👍😀
got mine printing esun wood pla got speed 60 hot end 240 bed 98 fans 153 with 4mm nozzle and not had any issues tho im fairly new to 3d prints so not sure if doing it wrong but so far no issues
Never had a problem with wood on Prusa MK3.
Formfutura states on their site that after using woodfill you should run some regular PLA through your nozzle to clean it from any leftovers. The problem is that if you leave the filament in there without moving it, the particles can bake into the nozzle. Had that happen for me, the nozzle was a gonner....
i tend to use cleaning filament between materials. trick is to overheat the nozzle, around 250 and run a couple of cm of cleaning filament. will be good as new
Nice intro and great video
Thanks buddy :)
My setup for Printing wood filament:
Anet A8
.4 Nozzle
MG Chemicals Wood filament (Fragile but amazing texture).
6.0 mm retract
3200 mm/Min retract speed
3300 mm/Min Printing speed.
Temp 191 C
My first layer comes out almost transparent to ensure adhesion.
harry potter wands are flawless with this setup.
I haven't had a issue with clogging with wood filament but I have been having issues with it lifting off the bed in the corners. Do you have any suggestions for this? I have tried on my ender 3 and flsun qq-s. it seems to always lift a corner. it does stay on the bed but a corner will come up.
which filament did you use for the filament filter/oiler at 4:32 ?
okay why do I laugh at 1:55 so hard when I saw that? LOL
Hi can you share the settings for low wood planfillament. That will be great I have a big project of 40 hrs printing what you recommend. And what oil did u recommend?
lol I went to a .06.. Thanks for this video.
Great video Joe , based on this experience, what brands of wood filament do you recommend ( with a good price ;) )
Filamentive are definitely one of my top choice, Azurefil also have some decent filament at a very good price
I didn't know you were supposed to use .5mm nozzles, I've never had an issue with .4mm with my PLA slicer settings.
Have you had any luck dynamically changing the temperature to darken/lighten the colour and look like a grain? I saw a photo where someone had done this years ago but never found out how to achieve it.
There's a chance if you're experienced with G-Code you may be able to do this, though I don't know for sure.
Hello everyone ,i was wondering whats the best way to get into the 3D printing field ,are online courses a good option to learn everything about it?
I just tried woord for the first time and got a 0.5 nozzle for it as well and ist failed hard. Sometimes underextruding, sometimes just fine. very frustrating!
been printing wood for 3 years
What about a blooper compilation with a mix of bleeped swearing :-) Wood makes me swear alooooottttt
that would take about 3 episodes lol
@3dmn thats enough material for a red carpet Premier hahhaaaa
Vary the temperatures of the print layers, and you can change the color of that layer, making it look more, "woodlike".
Please give us a temperature plan. Linearly, or? How often to change such temp's? every 1mm or 2, etc
Hows the mural coming?
👍
Varies though its the only issue I got the Hatchbox is more forgiving as always, it prints better with standard, but its also more smooth, looks a little cardboardish, till you stain it though...
What oils do you use for the oiler ?
Is there a specific type of lubricant oil that we should be using?
Dude is the oil really necessary?? I print with all kinds of wood filament and always comes out great. Print as normal pla just higher retract. Making this super complicated. Idk .....
I have a roll of 20% coconut filament. i think one time i successfully printed a bottle opener. You cant clean the nozzle when you used this Filament XD
I used to be intimidated by 3d printing, I thought it was so complex. Imagine my surprise when I bought my first 3d printer last year and was making things I thought were so complicated; People overcomplicate this so much it's insane. 3d printing is one of the most straightforward things in the world of technology and videos like this over-complicate it to people who are unfamiliar to it. The best way to get good at 3d printing wood filament is to buy wood filament and start 3d printing.
And then you get a clog and don't know how to fix it. Great tip! *thumbs up*
What program do you use?
Avoid many headaches and just use a 0.5mm nozzle. It'll just work without tinkering forever...
can you please put the camera onto the printer bed
As a carpenter it most certainly doesn't not smell like a shop
Even with a 0,6mm steel nozzle, my wood filament keeps getting the nozzle clogged... Just what am I doing wrong? 😩
How do you do your Timelapses?
Hello everyone. I have Anet A8 3D printer. I have a problem when printing items that require more time to create. After about an hour, the model literally turns out from the bottom and becomes slightly rounded at the ends. I use an ABS filament at 220°C ecruder and 100°C hotbed. When printing, the hotbed temperature drops to 88-92 ° C. Can someone help me? Does this happen because of the higher temperature hotbed?
I have a 0.6 nozzle and it don’t clocks when pushing filament but when I try to print It instantly clocks pls help
I never had problems with printing Wood Filament with my Micro Swiss all Metal 0.4 Nozzle
Hello, your video was very insightful.
I'm doing a market research on 3D Printing Filaments and would like to get in touch with you to improvise my research.
can we print a "esun" wood filament with a "0.3 mm" nozzle?
Yes, I am printing a 6cm tall model that has some small text with a .25 nozzle. I am getting some stringing, but it cleaned off fairly easily. I really like all of Esun's filaments.
Would you not recommend this for a big print. Several musicians on here have been 3d printing guitar bodies. I was looking at this as a possibility to use hoping it will produce a tone closer to a wood body guitar. Not exactly just closer than pure plastic which tends to be tinny and bright. I saw on another video the filament is brittle.
holy shit balls joe, what lens is that!
The one in the beginning? It’s a Canon 50mm f1.4
@@3DMakerNoob I neeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeed it, holy balls.
Haha, on a canon it actually looks much better. This is being used on a lumix with an adaptor
@@3DMakerNoob yeah on a G7 that thing is running as effective a 90-100mm lens, even so, stunning results, good job man
Can you 3d Print a wood block to carve an electric guitar out of?
Can we use this in 3 d printing
Thats what the whole video is about
@@brandielee7971 i mean in 3 d pen
Wood or any composite filament is inherently a sucky engineering material. I have pretty good luck making nice looking wood stuff with priline wood at about 210c normal pla settings.
I wouldn't want to get oil coating the inside of my expensive nozzles.
Why? I’m new to this
@@ty_tcm9509 oil can leave a film, and nozzles don't really need it. In fact quite a few nozzles already have a coating on the inside.
I mean, why not use a .5mm nozzle as the standard? .4 is just a stupid size, .5 allows better division of sizes (and .25)
I don't get why people don't want to change their crappy standards for something new and better, this is seen a lot in 3d printing
Dyed with a wood coloring? We call that paint in the US ;P
Sorry man couldn't resist...
I thought we called it "stain."
Stain works also of course, it’s just a synonym of dye :)
@@3DMakerNoob on a side note, I've only purchased one brand of wood filament, Hatchbox PLA. Once I got the temperature right (223 on my printer) it printed without an issue and that was the only thing that I adjusted in the slicer. It certainly seemed awful high but I went through 2 rolls of it without an oiler or anything special with 100% successful prints. Using the cheapest possible extruder.
Tomatoe Tamato - stain is nothing but light paint heh.
@@MissMerc That's what I said "light paint"
Maybe I got lucky with my filament, but I haven't changed any settings and I get perfect prints with very minimum stringing. Mine look a crap ton better than those shown in this video. I have MG Chemicals Wood 3D Printer Filament using standard PLA settings, no clogs, hardly any stringing, and perfect prints. Example imgur.com/TIyGQbZ
1:55 why just why
Why? Why just why?
(SMH on this one...) I have been using Wood Filament since the beginning of my 3D Printing Hobby.
Wood, like paper, will burn at 451F (232.7C) degrees. But up to this point, wood will char and turn into hard charcoal at anything close to that temp. The issue is how long you leave it sitting in a hot extruder. At 190C, it would take about 30 minutes for the wood to charcoal inside the hot extruder and jam up something fierce! Really jam - shoving a thin wire into the hole is not going to clear it - jammed! Pull the nozzle out and use a blow torch to melt the PLA-WOOD and let it pour out - JAMMED!
If caught early, you could ram up the nozzle heat to ABS Temps and shove by hand the wood PLA to clear out the jam. But no other time will this work. When it reaches ABS Temps, immediately tell the printer to cool down while you shove Wood PLA into the extruder by hand. Once it is flowing out the nozzle with that wooden color, then consider the jam cleared.
Wood is very tricky to deal with. It is great once one figures out who to deal with it but it is a very steep learning curve. Each Wood filament is different, that only adds to the problem of working with wood. And depending on the PLA Formulation, it can be very hard to work with.