Awesome video's. I am about to rebuild my Ford spec Holley 4180C and this helps tremendously. Question, the gaskets for the secondary metering plate in the rebuild kit are lacking holes in two places compared to the originals. Do you know if this is something that was changed for drivability or other reason? or should I punch holes in them to match up with the originals? My kit contained only one type of gasket. All the others are correct.
Subbed, thanks for the videos! Looking forward to when you get a chance to do the tune up part 3. If you can't find an engine to put this carb on, maybe you could just find a car with a similar carb on and go over the steps? But all good! Thanks again :)
I have a Chevy 454 BBC on an old ski boat. Will a Holley 4160 be suitable for a boat. I note that you were setting the carb in part 3 with 900-1000 idle. These boats normally idle 650-750. Is there anything else I need to consider? Brett from South Africa 🇿🇦
When you rebuilt this carb, did you keep the original power valve or did you replace it with the power valve that came with the rebuild kit? I'm asking because when I went to rebuild my carb, the power valve that came with the kit looked a lot different from the original and so I'm hesitant to use it. However, the original power valve is corroded so I'm not sure what to do. Thanks!
I always replace the power valve when rebuilding the carb. There are different designs out there. Some designs were about helping prevent the power valve from blowing out during a back fire.
My kit from holley only had 2 round cork gaskets for idle screws. Couple square ones for I don't know what, but had o rings that look like they would fit for the vac secondary and electric choke. Is that something they do now? Also can I reuse the vac diagram? Mine had no check ball for some reason but kit has one. Thanks
Look closely at the square cork gaskets. They are usually precut into a donut with a decal sticky backing. It's for the air passage from main body to the vacuum diaphram housing. If your vacuum diaphram is soft and pliable, and not torn, reuse it. Your carb must be new enough to where the check ball is not needed. The kits will have to cover the really old carbs as well.
@@RebeldryversGarage Yep your right I didn't see that cut in that cork. Thank you so much. My carbs soaking in pine sol some vinegar and some water. Cleaning up well. My carb was rebuilt 30 years ago by a guy who worked for holley. It's older cause it has the flat head screw bowl bolts. I was wondering if he deleted the vac sec check ball for some reason. Thanks for the videos, they're great.
OK, so when you disassembled you didn't show the metal part on the rear bowl coming off. On this you don't show the re assembly??? My kit came with 2 of these gaskets so do I use 1 on each side or what???? you should not make a video if ya don't show details. So I'm off to another posting.
The metal plate is between the big gasket that also acts as the rear bowl gasket. The black gasket that is the same shape as the metal plate and the jet plate goes between those two pieces.
Excellent videos, I’ve followed right along with my own rebuild. Looking forward to part 3.
Thanks for watching. Glad it helped.
Awesome video's. I am about to rebuild my Ford spec Holley 4180C and this helps tremendously. Question, the gaskets for the secondary metering plate in the rebuild kit are lacking holes in two places compared to the originals. Do you know if this is something that was changed for drivability or other reason? or should I punch holes in them to match up with the originals? My kit contained only one type of gasket. All the others are correct.
Thanks, Great video. Looking forward to part three.
What a lifesaver this video is
Thanks for watching!
The best how to video Ive seen. When is part 3 coming?
Thanks for watching. I am trying to find something to put it on. I may set it up on my 428 ford while it is on the run stand.
the clutch screws are designed so you don't overtighten, works great with the tool
Great Job man...fantastic video.
Thanks for watching. Hope it was helpful.
Great involved video! Pulling my carb ASAP. Wondering if it has those valve finder studs! Can't remember.
Subbed, thanks for the videos! Looking forward to when you get a chance to do the tune up part 3. If you can't find an engine to put this carb on, maybe you could just find a car with a similar carb on and go over the steps? But all good! Thanks again :)
Thanks for the sub! I may just put it on my 64 Galaxie.
Nice! This is just the video I needed.
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
I needed to see you put the coil on the choke
I have a Chevy 454 BBC on an old ski boat. Will a Holley 4160 be suitable for a boat. I note that you were setting the carb in part 3 with 900-1000 idle. These boats normally idle 650-750. Is there anything else I need to consider? Brett from South Africa 🇿🇦
Set the carb up for your application.
This was greatly helpful, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
When you rebuilt this carb, did you keep the original power valve or did you replace it with the power valve that came with the rebuild kit?
I'm asking because when I went to rebuild my carb, the power valve that came with the kit looked a lot different from the original and so I'm hesitant to use it. However, the original power valve is corroded so I'm not sure what to do.
Thanks!
I always replace the power valve when rebuilding the carb. There are different designs out there. Some designs were about helping prevent the power valve from blowing out during a back fire.
Just wondering if you posted a video of how to tune? A couple young guys here in western Ky waiting on it.
Not yet. I am hoping to have an engine on the run stand next week and can do it then.
I enjoyed the drama, great video, did you have to solder on the electric choke ground wire?
Not yet.
If i wanted to add zinc plating to the carb to dress it up, when would i do that? What product do you use or recommend? Thanks! Great video!
Sorry I missed your question. Add the zinc plating before assembly. I have never bothered to do that.
My kit from holley only had 2 round cork gaskets for idle screws. Couple square ones for I don't know what, but had o rings that look like they would fit for the vac secondary and electric choke. Is that something they do now? Also can I reuse the vac diagram? Mine had no check ball for some reason but kit has one. Thanks
Look closely at the square cork gaskets. They are usually precut into a donut with a decal sticky backing. It's for the air passage from main body to the vacuum diaphram housing. If your vacuum diaphram is soft and pliable, and not torn, reuse it. Your carb must be new enough to where the check ball is not needed. The kits will have to cover the really old carbs as well.
@@RebeldryversGarage Yep your right I didn't see that cut in that cork. Thank you so much. My carbs soaking in pine sol some vinegar and some water. Cleaning up well. My carb was rebuilt 30 years ago by a guy who worked for holley. It's older cause it has the flat head screw bowl bolts. I was wondering if he deleted the vac sec check ball for some reason. Thanks for the videos, they're great.
OK, so when you disassembled you didn't show the metal part on the rear bowl coming off. On this you don't show the re assembly??? My kit came with 2 of these gaskets so do I use 1 on each side or what???? you should not make a video if ya don't show details. So I'm off to another posting.
The metal plate is between the big gasket that also acts as the rear bowl gasket. The black gasket that is the same shape as the metal plate and the jet plate goes between those two pieces.