I have become a TH-cam mechanic and videos like yours make my life a hell of a lot easier, very informative and in layman's terms, along with your hands-on experience and showing dummies like me the way I have become more confident with working on anything myself instead of taking it to the shop that cost more than my paycheck can handle..🍻
Man you get yer fingers into everything mate. This brings back memories hangin out in my garage building motors with friends back in the day. My first Carb rebuild was a Rochester Quadrajet. The most complicated one to build. After that I went Holley and never looked back. I even had a 1200 CFM off a fire truck motor I was contemplating putting on a build.
Ah yes, the good old Quadrajet. This brought back many of the same memories for me. I really do enjoy this type of work. I just don't get to do much these days.
To make the wood/bolt base plate holder ahead of time the dimensions are 5.16" x 5.625". It's a great idea and in my case I wanted to build that before the carb arrived. Of course you could get the gasket kit and use the gasket to mark your dimensions. Thanks for the video. I've got a 390 coming off a jeep cj.
Any issues with warn throttle shafts/base plates affecting how it runs and idles? I have a set of matched identical carbs to what you just went through. 450cfm from a 1958 Ford car. The set I have has been redone but when installed it ran terrible. Each was redone identical to the other using the same blue gaskets and Holley kits. The base to bowl is true. The base to manifold is also true. The floats are set correctly. Took em off and installed a set of Holley 600's I had that worked perfectly. This eliminated the possibility of any other issues causing it to run bad. Given the 450 carbs were both redone with nothing remarkable popping out to indicate there were pre-existing issues it has to be the baseplates causing vacuum leaks. The throttle shafts on the linkage side have a lot of free travel. Have you had experience with rebushing these base plates? The base plates have become very expensive to replace. Enjoyed your easy to follow video. Thanks.
I haven't ever needed to replace those bushings but I'm sure it can be done. You can use a can of starting fluid or carb cleaner sprayed around the baseplate. If you notice a change in RPM when spraying in certain places, that can help identify vacuum leaks. Then you'd know for sure where it leaking. I've done this a bunch of times. Sometimes its just a gasket not sealing correctly.
@@homebuiltshop The 450 carbs were on the 6.71 blower in my rat rod. Had trouble controlling the idle. With blowers a vacuum leak will do like an injected engine with a leak. The idle goes up. I ended up using two 600 holley's I had. Worked perfectly and still is. I did some research since writing to you. A place called Carb junky's sells a reverse ream and brass inserts in order to install a bushing for the throttle shaft. There is a video showing it being done. Given the base plates even aftermarket one's are $125 each I will spend the $40 and get the kit from Carb Junky's. Thanks.
Those carburetors are supposed to have an 8.5 hg power valve... someone has plugged the power valve or switched metering blocks... eliminating the power valve will cause a lean condition at WOT hence the reason for the larger jets size... keep an eye on those plugs for a lean condition or get an air/fuel meter and check the condition at top end ..😉
I was pretty sure there should have been a power valve in there. All the specs called for one. Its crazy to see some of the mods people do for different reasons.
Either lean at WOT, or rich at part throttle, all depending on jet size. Those carburetors with the blocked power valve circuits and 10 jet sizes over would have run very rich at part throttle but would have been in the ballpark for Wide Open Throttle. If you put the original size jets in with a blocked power valve circuit it will be far too lean at WOT. Can't have both correct with no functioning power valve circuit.
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I have become a TH-cam mechanic and videos like yours make my life a hell of a lot easier, very informative and in layman's terms, along with your hands-on experience and showing dummies like me the way I have become more confident with working on anything myself instead of taking it to the shop that cost more than my paycheck can handle..🍻
Thanks, I'm happy it helped you save some money. You can do it.
One of the best videos going over these carbs. Thank you!
Thanks you!. I like working on Holleys.
Man you get yer fingers into everything mate. This brings back memories hangin out in my garage building motors with friends back in the day. My first Carb rebuild was a Rochester Quadrajet. The most complicated one to build. After that I went Holley and never looked back. I even had a 1200 CFM off a fire truck motor I was contemplating putting on a build.
Ah yes, the good old Quadrajet. This brought back many of the same memories for me. I really do enjoy this type of work. I just don't get to do much these days.
Enjoyed watching this. The video brought me back to Auto Shop in High School and working on cars back in the sixties. Thanks for sharing this memory.
Yep, I miss auto shop. Well, I miss all the shop classes these days.
I’m rebuilding a holly 4160 for my 57 Thunderbird. Watched the video to pre-run the rebuild. Thanks for the information and happy Hotrodding!
Jeff, you and I definitely had a lot of time on Holley carbs back in the day.
We sure did. It all came back pretty fast.
Nice job Jeff. A true jack of all trades.
Thanks. There's always something to tackle. I love doing different things.
I enjoy all your videos, but this video is right up my alley.
Awesome! This was a fun one for me.
Very informative! Glad you made this video, helped me rebuild my 4160. Thank you
Awesome video Jeff. Sounds like it has a gear driven timing. Love that sound. Would like to see the whole rat rod.
I'm pretty sure it's gear driven. That whine gives it away. I'll post some pics of the whole thing for you.
Buddy, I posted a couple on IG for you.
I’m restoring a 70 chevelle with 383 stroker gear drive cam. Same weiand tunnel ram and same dual 9776 carbs. Thanks for the tips!
To make the wood/bolt base plate holder ahead of time the dimensions are 5.16" x 5.625". It's a great idea and in my case I wanted to build that before the carb arrived. Of course you could get the gasket kit and use the gasket to mark your dimensions. Thanks for the video. I've got a 390 coming off a jeep cj.
Nice demo
Thanks!
cool car bro!
Very good..and informative video
Thank you for great video helpful
Any issues with warn throttle shafts/base plates affecting how it runs and idles? I have a set of matched identical carbs to what you just went through. 450cfm from a 1958 Ford car. The set I have has been redone but when installed it ran terrible. Each was redone identical to the other using the same blue gaskets and Holley kits. The base to bowl is true. The base to manifold is also true. The floats are set correctly. Took em off and installed a set of Holley 600's I had that worked perfectly. This eliminated the possibility of any other issues causing it to run bad. Given the 450 carbs were both redone with nothing remarkable popping out to indicate there were pre-existing issues it has to be the baseplates causing vacuum leaks. The throttle shafts on the linkage side have a lot of free travel. Have you had experience with rebushing these base plates? The base plates have become very expensive to replace. Enjoyed your easy to follow video. Thanks.
I haven't ever needed to replace those bushings but I'm sure it can be done. You can use a can of starting fluid or carb cleaner sprayed around the baseplate. If you notice a change in RPM when spraying in certain places, that can help identify vacuum leaks. Then you'd know for sure where it leaking. I've done this a bunch of times. Sometimes its just a gasket not sealing correctly.
@@homebuiltshop The 450 carbs were on the 6.71 blower in my rat rod. Had trouble controlling the idle. With blowers a vacuum leak will do like an injected engine with a leak. The idle goes up. I ended up using two 600 holley's I had. Worked perfectly and still is. I did some research since writing to you. A place called Carb junky's sells a reverse ream and brass inserts in order to install a bushing for the throttle shaft. There is a video showing it being done. Given the base plates even aftermarket one's are $125 each I will spend the $40 and get the kit from Carb Junky's. Thanks.
@@boblamb8421 that's good to know. I will keep them in mind in case I need to do those bushings.
Those carburetors are supposed to have an 8.5 hg power valve... someone has plugged the power valve or switched metering blocks... eliminating the power valve will cause a lean condition at WOT hence the reason for the larger jets size... keep an eye on those plugs for a lean condition or get an air/fuel meter and check the condition at top end ..😉
I was pretty sure there should have been a power valve in there. All the specs called for one. Its crazy to see some of the mods people do for different reasons.
Either lean at WOT, or rich at part throttle, all depending on jet size. Those carburetors with the blocked power valve circuits and 10 jet sizes over would have run very rich at part throttle but would have been in the ballpark for Wide Open Throttle. If you put the original size jets in with a blocked power valve circuit it will be far too lean at WOT. Can't have both correct with no functioning power valve circuit.
In the first three minutes I realized we might be the same person.
Are you my Doppelganger? Lol.
@@homebuiltshopWell we definitely don’t look alike but I work on amps and guitars for a living but I’m a long time wrencher too.
@@ryanintopeka that's awesome. I enjoy working on pretty much everything. Keep it up.
I could sher use some of those extra parts
I AM REBUILDING MY WARP DRIVE ON MY THIME MACHINE...WISH ME LUCK