Very well explained thank you, I will be dealing with my first 4 brl install soon. Holley 4165 on a Edlebrock 3CB intake, SBC 5.7 350, 2 speed powerglide, 1965 Impala SS
Thanks, great video. I put a new 750 on my Cleveland, ran good before new carb. Couldn't get it to start back up then realized I didn't have a few of the plugs snapped back in the distributor cap. After that, I think it was flooded. It would start, run for 10 seconds, then die. Let it sit a day to try again. Came back the next day, didn't stay running. Then I adjusted the choke per your recommendation, just a blade thick. Fired right up. Running good now! Thanks for the tip!
Wow. Getting set to do a rebuild on my '85 Mustang (factory Holley). Stumbled on your tear-down video (great) and jumped to the install video. Looks like you JUST posted it. Talk about timing. Very informative. My carb is a bit different (emissions) in that it has the idle mixture screws in the baseplate and they're sealed in with plugs (tamper proof). Should be interesting. She's nasty. Your videos are excellent.
Awesome video's. I am about to rebuild my Ford spec Holley 4180C and this helps tremendously. Question, the gaskets for the secondary metering plate in the rebuild kit are lacking holes in two places compared to the originals. Do you know if this is something that was changed for drivability or other reason? or should I punch holes in them to match up with the originals? My kit contained only one type of gasket. All the others are correct.
Спасибо! Перебрал свой карбюратор с помощью вашего видео:) Осталось правильно это все настроить и отрегулировать, что бы заставить работать на своем 302..) Не могу понять какие форсунки и силовой клапан лучше поставить, у 302 небольшой объем, и заливает свечи
I run all my cars on 10% ethanol with no problems with any of my carbs. The new kits have different rubber parts that handle the ethanol better. They just don't recommend letting the gas sit unmoved by running the engine for months at a time.
Great Videos. I watched all three. So I have a 1987 Ford RV E350 with a Holley partnered 4bbl. I don't have any room in there to do all these adjustments. I have to build it, slap it, and go. I was thinking the screws on both side, just turn out 1.5 times. Hopefully the floats will be correct, and go. I may be able to adjust the floats. I'm nervous, never rebuilt a carb, but it's leaving from the accelerator pump center, onto the manifold. Will just doing the basic idle screws be enough? I'm not looking for extreme snappy performance, just go, secondary works, and it doesn't leak. Also...can you assist me with what kit to get? Holley built it for Ford, but the list number doesn't have an 'R' at front, so that Holley chart doesn't seem to work. The List number on the carb is 50260-3 Manufacture date is 2616, so it was manufactured June time frame 2016, but it's an RV, and she has sat a lot. I just got her from the Lady who owned her before. Carb is a mess. It's electric choke, and I'm guess vacuum secondaries. Interesting thing, is when I first got it running, the down kick didn't seem to work, but I've driven her a few times, up until accelerator pump started leaking, and the kickdown did work one time, otherwise it was just dumping gas until it went faster. I'm so nervous about rebuilding her. I'll be using the carb cleaner in a can, and compressed air in a can...I don't have a big shop or garage. Your videos have calmed me, but a couple things, my fuel inline is different than yours, but the core carb, I presume is just like yours. Could I use that same Edelbrock kit? Internet isn't helping with that 50260-3 number. Thanks for the videos and your time.
Thanks for watching. The carb list number says it is for a 1985-1987 Ford truck. I have nearly the same carb that came on my boat. Someone obviously changed it years ago. You can use your truck's application at most parts stores to find a kit for it. I did for mine. www.carburetion.com/CarbNumber.asp?Number=R50260-3
You have a 4180C, Motorcraft by Holley, built in 1986. Holley will not even acknowledge that those exist, they have no information on them and can offer no valid help either. Make sure you put a power valve saver kit in it. The odd thing that you state is that you have the idle screws on the side, which the motorcraft carbs didn't have. The motorcraft carbs had the idle screws at the base and covered by plugs, this was to meet Ford's emissions requirements. Sounds like maybe someone swapped out your metering block for a stock one.
Make sure the needle and seat doesn't have something stuck in it holding it open. If you're using an aftermarket fuel pump, be sure it isn't rated more than 7 psi fuel pressure. If so, you will need a pressure regulator.
is that the 390 engine? if so i have the same engine and Carb, i have to spray gas directly into the carb for my car to start, i've taken it down and cleaned every part of the carb but no change, any suggestions please? it's a brand new carb but i had it sitting up unused for years, it's a restoration project
there really isn't a specific turn number, it's more about finding preference of high idle speed for your particular set up. I like my cars about 300 rpm above normal operating rpm. It's enough to keep the engine running when cold, but isn't hard on drive line when trying to drive the car.
Friend, I have a 4160 carburetor, I put it in a '75 302, washed it and rebuilt it with new gaskets. The engine does not start until you accelerate but it does not idle, I release the accelerator and it turns offIn the same way, when it is kept accelerated, it expels explosions. What would be the problem? Is there any hole covered?
This is the best Holley how to video I've seen
Glad it was helpful.
Very well explained thank you, I will be dealing with my first 4 brl install soon. Holley 4165 on a Edlebrock 3CB intake, SBC 5.7 350, 2 speed powerglide, 1965 Impala SS
1965 Impala SS FTW. Check out mine on the channel.
Thank you. Your series on rebuilding and setting the carburetor have been invaluable to me. Thanks to your videos I was able to fix my carb!
Great to hear!
Thanks, great video. I put a new 750 on my Cleveland, ran good before new carb. Couldn't get it to start back up then realized I didn't have a few of the plugs snapped back in the distributor cap. After that, I think it was flooded. It would start, run for 10 seconds, then die. Let it sit a day to try again. Came back the next day, didn't stay running. Then I adjusted the choke per your recommendation, just a blade thick. Fired right up. Running good now! Thanks for the tip!
Glad it was helpful.
Great video, now I'm confidant about rebuilding my carb. Thank you!!!!
Thanks for watching. Glad it was helpful.
Your videos are very informative and the step by step instructions would definitely make anyone’s first Holley rebuild a breeze , keep ‘em coming !
The whole series is super helpful and very well explained. Thank you for taking the time to do that.
Glad it was helpful!
Wow. Getting set to do a rebuild on my '85 Mustang (factory Holley). Stumbled on your tear-down video (great) and jumped to the install video. Looks like you JUST posted it. Talk about timing. Very informative. My carb is a bit different (emissions) in that it has the idle mixture screws in the baseplate and they're sealed in with plugs (tamper proof). Should be interesting. She's nasty. Your videos are excellent.
Thanks for watching.
Awesome video's. I am about to rebuild my Ford spec Holley 4180C and this helps tremendously. Question, the gaskets for the secondary metering plate in the rebuild kit are lacking holes in two places compared to the originals. Do you know if this is something that was changed for drivability or other reason? or should I punch holes in them to match up with the originals? My kit contained only one type of gasket. All the others are correct.
Спасибо! Перебрал свой карбюратор с помощью вашего видео:) Осталось правильно это все настроить и отрегулировать, что бы заставить работать на своем 302..) Не могу понять какие форсунки и силовой клапан лучше поставить, у 302 небольшой объем, и заливает свечи
I rebuild my holly but its running way to rich the idle mix screws doesnt do nothing even if its all the way in still 2 rich
Check float levels, and if you're not using a stock fuel pump, check fuel pressure.
Do they make a rebuild kit for ethanol gas . I'm having trouble with my gaskets leaking. Thank you. Good information in your videos.
I run all my cars on 10% ethanol with no problems with any of my carbs. The new kits have different rubber parts that handle the ethanol better. They just don't recommend letting the gas sit unmoved by running the engine for months at a time.
Great Videos. I watched all three. So I have a 1987 Ford RV E350 with a Holley partnered 4bbl. I don't have any room in there to do all these adjustments. I have to build it, slap it, and go. I was thinking the screws on both side, just turn out 1.5 times. Hopefully the floats will be correct, and go. I may be able to adjust the floats. I'm nervous, never rebuilt a carb, but it's leaving from the accelerator pump center, onto the manifold. Will just doing the basic idle screws be enough? I'm not looking for extreme snappy performance, just go, secondary works, and it doesn't leak.
Also...can you assist me with what kit to get? Holley built it for Ford, but the list number doesn't have an 'R' at front, so that Holley chart doesn't seem to work. The List number on the carb is 50260-3 Manufacture date is 2616, so it was manufactured June time frame 2016, but it's an RV, and she has sat a lot. I just got her from the Lady who owned her before. Carb is a mess. It's electric choke, and I'm guess vacuum secondaries. Interesting thing, is when I first got it running, the down kick didn't seem to work, but I've driven her a few times, up until accelerator pump started leaking, and the kickdown did work one time, otherwise it was just dumping gas until it went faster.
I'm so nervous about rebuilding her. I'll be using the carb cleaner in a can, and compressed air in a can...I don't have a big shop or garage. Your videos have calmed me, but a couple things, my fuel inline is different than yours, but the core carb, I presume is just like yours. Could I use that same Edelbrock kit? Internet isn't helping with that 50260-3 number.
Thanks for the videos and your time.
Thanks for watching. The carb list number says it is for a 1985-1987 Ford truck. I have nearly the same carb that came on my boat. Someone obviously changed it years ago. You can use your truck's application at most parts stores to find a kit for it. I did for mine.
www.carburetion.com/CarbNumber.asp?Number=R50260-3
You have a 4180C, Motorcraft by Holley, built in 1986. Holley will not even acknowledge that those exist, they have no information on them and can offer no valid help either. Make sure you put a power valve saver kit in it. The odd thing that you state is that you have the idle screws on the side, which the motorcraft carbs didn't have. The motorcraft carbs had the idle screws at the base and covered by plugs, this was to meet Ford's emissions requirements. Sounds like maybe someone swapped out your metering block for a stock one.
Great videos. I have the exact same carburetor. however it spits gas out of the forward vent tube like a geyser. Any ideas as to why?
Make sure the needle and seat doesn't have something stuck in it holding it open. If you're using an aftermarket fuel pump, be sure it isn't rated more than 7 psi fuel pressure. If so, you will need a pressure regulator.
is that the 390 engine? if so i have the same engine and Carb, i have to spray gas directly into the carb for my car to start, i've taken it down and cleaned every part of the carb but no change, any suggestions please? it's a brand new carb but i had it sitting up unused for years, it's a restoration project
428. Is this at every start up? Or, just after it sits a few days, weeks?
I can't get my choke coil on my holley 600 9834-3
How many turns are on the secondary stop screw at initial setup?
The stop screw is missing from. Carb I neet to rebuild.
there really isn't a specific turn number, it's more about finding preference of high idle speed for your particular set up. I like my cars about 300 rpm above normal operating rpm. It's enough to keep the engine running when cold, but isn't hard on drive line when trying to drive the car.
just wondered you say you are not vacuum advanced how is that i see a distributor with vacuum
I was not using the distributor's vacuum advance at this time, so I didn't hook it up.
Friend, I have a 4160 carburetor, I put it in a '75 302, washed it and rebuilt it with new gaskets. The engine does not start until you accelerate but it does not idle, I release the accelerator and it turns offIn the same way, when it is kept accelerated, it expels explosions. What would be the problem? Is there any hole covered?
it does sound like a vacuum leak.
I think the same but I can't find where
What causes a4160 to stumble on a 302
There is an old saying "80% of carb stumbles are lack of ignition timing."
Are u just running a 3/8 line to carb?
yes. This car came with that stock. The hard from fuel pump to carb is original.