Thanks for video. Retired contractor here. I can tell this is your first time doing this. No problem welcome to youtube DIY. Enjoyed the background music. Here is my main unsolicited advice to other DIY. Be careful when doing sides. The foam tipping brushes, (loaded up) as well as quality brushes will seep onto the underside if you don't wipe them clean. This will darken the stain on the side you want to keep. It sort of leaves a darker ring around the edge if you are not careful. This happens with paint, whatever. Butcher block comes in many types of hardwood. The concept of stain is to make different types of wood appear similar with the same tone or hue. For example you might have island countertop and and base countertops of diff hardwoods and you want them to match. Good luck. Not as easy as it looks!
Yep I encountered the stain dripping onto the other side when I was staining the sides of the board. You can't see it that much but I know it's there. The desk actually turned out pretty well. One thing that I noticed is a slight grayish dust on certain areas (that won't wipe away easily) that I believe are the poly that I may have sanded a little too much. Any idea what that may be? You can't really see the graysih dust or streaks until the light hits it at an angle. Thanks for the info and watching the video!
You seem like this is your first project, so I have a suggestion to give you a much better result. As you’re brushing on the stain-or whatever, do what’s called back brushing. You’re laying down the brush and going forward and working your way across with each set down of the brush, you’re leaving the “tap” behind. Lay down the brush and work backwards, in that way each stroke will cover the previous lay down and prevent that tap from absorbing and leaving behind more stain.
It's gorgeous! I have a modern home and we put in a birch island top and countertops at the last minutes to save money on our redo, and I've been itching to darken it since we put it in. Mine will be very dark. This may be my project this weekend!
Well done man. Couple things I've learned that helped final finish and less streaks/drips: 1.) Unless you are using truly softer woods, like pine, don't use wood prep treatment on hard wood or anything in it's vicinity. It gains you nothing with these and causes nothing but problems in woods like Maple, it closes up the grain so your strain will not penetrate as well. Basically working against yourself. 2.) You don't need B side for practice at the risk of ruining your A side. Muster courage! Do the A side first. Complete with edging. This is the side you be looking at forever so you want to know it's good, watch it dry. Dive in like a boss! Then it's ok to to stain several inches back on the underside while in A up position if you want or it actually matters, drips will fall to floor rather than your A side. Ultimately, if you must stain the whole B side. Save that for last, light stain cover coat to hide the white underbelly is all that is. If any drips from your A side start, they'll live under there forever out of view. 3.) This is subject to opinion as much as experience with what wood/stain type you are using, but I would not be so focused on wiping off stain with the grain, that's often generating streaks and you are not removing the stain uniformly. In fact, better to think of this phase as "polishing and finishing a coat." It's your opportunity to get the stain to truly soak up evenly. This is where the finish it crafted, by polishing it clean. Smooth circles can be ok, blend it in as you remove the excess towards drying it. If you end up needing a second coat, so be it, now you are set to get the darkness and depth of stain just right. Finally poly satin and sand, that's my favorite, because it allows you to craft the perfect lustrous sheen. Thanks for doing this video and good luck!
Very good job! Another tip for the viewers is to poor the products, like the stain or pre-stain, into a small cup or other container so you don't contaminate the original can by dipping the brush into it. Probably not REALLY necessary but it did happen to me once.
Nice job, good video.... one suggestion... always work the stain and finish furthest away from you first... that way you are not leaning over the work already done... also maybe use foam blocks if possible to lift your material off saw horses/ Not trying to do you, your work looks great!
Would involve adding a 2nd product but you can use that thick stuff on the back side first and let it cure up decent. Then flip over and use traditional poly for the front and sides. That way the underside is done in one go and there's no flipping back and forth. Speeds things up and less chance of damage to the front. Using the triple coat stuff like you did is even quicker obviously. I'm sure it worked out well but if anyone is nervous they can try the thick on back and traditional on front.
List of products: -Varathane pre-stain wood conditioner (8oz per 55sq feet. or 1qt per 220sq feet) -Varathane classic wood stain in Early American color(1 qt per 150sq feet) -Varathane triplethick water-based polyurethane, clear satin (1 qt per 50sq feet) -Foam brushes, gloves, wiping cloths, tack cloths, 220 grit sandpaper/sanding block, mask. Made this list because I needed the same products from the hardware store. Good luck!
Great video! Good information. Literally bought the same butcher block from Home Depot and bought the same stains. I have a couple questions. I am concerned. I will have to stain inside my room. Unfortunately, due to cold weather here. I read drying is affected by the temperature. I have one window. How strong are the fumes and during the curing process? Does the smell linger on the countertop during the process? Thanks in advance!
@@Sarah_Kinz yeah do it outside because fumes are super strong. i wish i had did it in the summer time vs the winter time because the curing process would have been easier and the warm weather would make the polyurethane set better. other than that my butcherblock came out good nonetheless for my first DIY.
Yes I love pre stain and original stain. Don’t get the stain with top coat. That stuff is nasty sticky unforgivable. Regular poly applied with a stain sponge leaves a great finish. Stand between and do 3 coats. Thanks for sharing your journey
The color came out great. Very nice work! I'm preparing to stain a butcher block countertop as well, which will be used as a desk. Hopefully it comes out looking as good as this.
Alright, I have watched this video like 3 times now, I think I got it down lol. I will be staining/sealing my 10ft butcher block countertop I will be using as my new gaming/DJ setup desk, let's hope it goes well. Haven't decided if I want to do both sides just yet. Thanks for one of the best tutorials on this!
Nice! I'm sure it will turn out fine. I haven't done any woodworking projects like this in almost 20 years. It can seem a little daunting at first but it's actually not bad. I would def recommend doing both sides ... at least sealing both of them. Thanks for watching!
How's have the counter top been holding out so far? We are in the process of putting in butcher block countertops in our kitchen. I'll have to look into the sealing process you did. Thanks for sharing
The desk is holding up very well actually! Maybe I should do a follow up video for the desk at some point. How's your kitchen countertops looking? I'm not a professional wood worker but if it were me and I were sealing something in the kitchen I would probably use the regular poly so I could be a little more precise with the application. Of course, the triple poly will work but you have to be a little more careful because it is really thick but it doesn't take long at all to finish the sealing process.
I was wondering do you absolutely have to use a stain, or can you just use a conditioner and then the sealant? I wanna keep the original color of a board I’m thinking of
I’m in the process of getting everything setup with the desk. I ended up going with a set of standing desk legs from a company called “fully”. Stay tuned for updates on the desk! Thanks for watching! 👍🏽
@@DancyTV thanks for the quick reply! Yeah, when I added the poly I noticed it was rough to the touch. After you sanded it did you just clean up the dust and called it done? Thanks for your bid by the way, it’s very informative!
Instructions on can say apply stain cross grain and wipe off with the grain. Not sure why they say that. I figure just wipe the stain on however and wipe excess off.
I’m looking to do the very same project, but the triple thick poly is not food grade so might not be the correct sealer for a kitchen project. I’m not certain though-any chance you can confirm whether it is good safe or not?
I did a his/her battle station with beech from Floor and Decor. I went up to 400 grit. I used the orbital with 220 and hand sanded up to 400. Those rough parts you’re talking about comes out when you sand with that higher grit. Even with the 320 I still had some rough patches. Good vid.
Hi, I'm thinking of building a dining table using acacia live edge wood kitchen island and steel leg. I'm wonder how is your countertop holding up? Do you need any support in the middle?Thanks！
Hello. Your block looks great. Ive been following your vid as a guide to stain mine. How long did you wait before flipping the board to stain the A side? Also same for the poly?
So do you suggest using a bristle brush instead of a sponge brush for the poly application? Also how long did you let the desk top cure before putting your stuff on it, have you encountered any stickiness with your computer equipment or was it a completely hard surface ready to go?
I used a standing desk frame from a company called fully. I really like it and I've been thinking about doing a video of the desk... maybe I should. Thanks for watching!
Really should just be your preference for the aesthetic of the piece. Do you prefer a glossy look or a flat look? For example i'm doing kitchen countertops and would prefer a flat look so i'm using satin. I've seen others do computer desks and the high gloss finish looks good. But it's personal preference at the end.
So, it looks like you are using an N95 dust mask. That will help from the wood particles from entering your body up to (.3 microns?) into your lungs, but NOT vapors. I would suggest dilution of the air through use of a mechanical fan. consult with your doctor and get a spirometry or pulmonary function test before switching to an organic vapor 1/2 mask. See SDS for the varithane products used.
ok sorry to call ya ouot but when did you flip the board to do the "bottom" but yet when you were applying the varnish the side you were doing was the "top" im confused wich side am i adding varnish too first?
You can start with either side you’d like. I started with the bottom side of the board and then went with the top side. The camera just stopped recording when I was applying the stain to the top.
I would just be careful and try not to put so much stain on the brush. Also I would wipe the bottom side of the board immediately. It actually turned out ok because you can’t even really see it once you’ve applied the rest of the stain.
how long did you leave the butcher block opened before you applied the first coat? i wanna get the same block and the company says you need to seal it within 24-48 hours or itll warp so if i wait for the poly to cure on one side will it warp?
I've worked with both types of polys and I'd say the normal one is better for first timers. There are a couple of things you can do to prevent streaking. Go off both edges. In this video he started left then went off the right edge. Reverse that motion and go off the left edge as well. That way will ensure that you get enough product on the edges. For streaking, be generous with your application. Lather it on then user your brush to flatten and even out your product. It will ensure that you keep a wet wedge. If you try to apply just enough and run out half way down the length of the board like he did, you run the risk creating a break in the eveness once your finish dries. Lastly, with triple thick, you must get it perfect. If you miss a spot and have to do a second coat, that shit will be too thick and take forever to cure. It will dent from anything you rest on it until it cures. For normal poly, you will cover all missed spots by the third coat and because the coats are thinner, cure time is faster.
😂Bruh who after you?! You looked out that garage door every 6 seconds!😂
😂😂😂 maaann neighbors walking and cars going by. Always keep my head on swivel 😂
@@DancyTV😂 you can take Rob out the hood but you can't take the hood out of Rob!
😂😂😂😂😂 staying ready = never getting ready
He had me spooked! But good job Homie✌🏾
Man I was thinking the samething he was making me nervous
Thanks for video. Retired contractor here. I can tell this is your first time doing this. No problem welcome to youtube DIY. Enjoyed the background music.
Here is my main unsolicited advice to other DIY.
Be careful when doing sides. The foam tipping brushes, (loaded up) as well as quality brushes will seep onto the underside if you don't wipe them clean. This will darken the stain on the side you want to keep. It sort of leaves a darker ring around the edge if you are not careful. This happens with paint, whatever.
Butcher block comes in many types of hardwood. The concept of stain is to make different types of wood appear similar with the same tone or hue. For example you might have island countertop and and base countertops of diff hardwoods and you want them to match.
Good luck. Not as easy as it looks!
Yep I encountered the stain dripping onto the other side when I was staining the sides of the board. You can't see it that much but I know it's there. The desk actually turned out pretty well. One thing that I noticed is a slight grayish dust on certain areas (that won't wipe away easily) that I believe are the poly that I may have sanded a little too much. Any idea what that may be? You can't really see the graysih dust or streaks until the light hits it at an angle. Thanks for the info and watching the video!
You seem like this is your first project, so I have a suggestion to give you a much better result. As you’re brushing on the stain-or whatever, do what’s called back brushing. You’re laying down the brush and going forward and working your way across with each set down of the brush, you’re leaving the “tap” behind. Lay down the brush and work backwards, in that way each stroke will cover the previous lay down and prevent that tap from absorbing and leaving behind more stain.
It's gorgeous! I have a modern home and we put in a birch island top and countertops at the last minutes to save money on our redo, and I've been itching to darken it since we put it in. Mine will be very dark. This may be my project this weekend!
Well done man. Couple things I've learned that helped final finish and less streaks/drips:
1.) Unless you are using truly softer woods, like pine, don't use wood prep treatment on hard wood or anything in it's vicinity. It gains you nothing with these and causes nothing but problems in woods like Maple, it closes up the grain so your strain will not penetrate as well. Basically working against yourself.
2.) You don't need B side for practice at the risk of ruining your A side. Muster courage! Do the A side first. Complete with edging. This is the side you be looking at forever so you want to know it's good, watch it dry. Dive in like a boss! Then it's ok to to stain several inches back on the underside while in A up position if you want or it actually matters, drips will fall to floor rather than your A side. Ultimately, if you must stain the whole B side. Save that for last, light stain cover coat to hide the white underbelly is all that is. If any drips from your A side start, they'll live under there forever out of view.
3.) This is subject to opinion as much as experience with what wood/stain type you are using, but I would not be so focused on wiping off stain with the grain, that's often generating streaks and you are not removing the stain uniformly. In fact, better to think of this phase as "polishing and finishing a coat." It's your opportunity to get the stain to truly soak up evenly. This is where the finish it crafted, by polishing it clean. Smooth circles can be ok, blend it in as you remove the excess towards drying it. If you end up needing a second coat, so be it, now you are set to get the darkness and depth of stain just right. Finally poly satin and sand, that's my favorite, because it allows you to craft the perfect lustrous sheen.
Thanks for doing this video and good luck!
Very good job!
Another tip for the viewers is to poor the products, like the stain or pre-stain, into a small cup or other container so you don't contaminate the original can by dipping the brush into it. Probably not REALLY necessary but it did happen to me once.
Thanks for watching and for the info! I had fun doing this project!
Nice job, good video.... one suggestion... always work the stain and finish furthest away from you first... that way you are not leaning over the work already done... also maybe use foam blocks if possible to lift your material off saw horses/ Not trying to do you, your work looks great!
Followed your steps & recommended products & my countertop came out gorgeous! The stain color is absolute perfection!! Thank you!
Nice! I’m glad it worked out for you!
Do you legit sand the poly after it dries?
Would involve adding a 2nd product but you can use that thick stuff on the back side first and let it cure up decent. Then flip over and use traditional poly for the front and sides. That way the underside is done in one go and there's no flipping back and forth. Speeds things up and less chance of damage to the front. Using the triple coat stuff like you did is even quicker obviously. I'm sure it worked out well but if anyone is nervous they can try the thick on back and traditional on front.
Good tutorial video. Very informative. Keep it coming! Definitely going to use this video when I make my own.
What you keep looking at 👀
List of products:
-Varathane pre-stain wood conditioner (8oz per 55sq feet. or 1qt per 220sq feet)
-Varathane classic wood stain in Early American color(1 qt per 150sq feet)
-Varathane triplethick water-based polyurethane, clear satin (1 qt per 50sq feet)
-Foam brushes, gloves, wiping cloths, tack cloths, 220 grit sandpaper/sanding block, mask.
Made this list because I needed the same products from the hardware store. Good luck!
Fugg, this comment has me laughing every time he turns his head 😂
Are the Varathane products food safe? You did a great job! You are very pleasant to listen to.
Thanks man! This video has been helpful. I'm in the middle of the same project myself. This video helped a lot.
Thanks… I’m glad I could help out. This was a lot easier than I anticipated. Good luck with your project!
Great video! Good information.
Literally bought the same butcher block from Home Depot and bought the same stains. I have a couple questions. I am concerned.
I will have to stain inside my room. Unfortunately, due to cold weather here. I read drying is affected by the temperature. I have one window.
How strong are the fumes and during the curing process?
Does the smell linger on the countertop during the process?
Thanks in advance!
Did you ever figure it out?
@@Sarah_Kinz yeah do it outside because fumes are super strong. i wish i had did it in the summer time vs the winter time because the curing process would have been easier and the warm weather would make the polyurethane set better. other than that my butcherblock came out good nonetheless for my first DIY.
I have a couple of spots that’s cloudy white..😢 what do I do for that?? Help
Love it!
Thanks!! Planning on doing a similar protect?
Hello, Congratulations Cool 👍👏👏 Beautiful.👍
Yes I love pre stain and original stain. Don’t get the stain with top coat. That stuff is nasty sticky unforgivable. Regular poly applied with a stain sponge leaves a great finish. Stand between and do 3 coats. Thanks for sharing your journey
The color came out great. Very nice work! I'm preparing to stain a butcher block countertop as well, which will be used as a desk. Hopefully it comes out looking as good as this.
Alright, I have watched this video like 3 times now, I think I got it down lol. I will be staining/sealing my 10ft butcher block countertop I will be using as my new gaming/DJ setup desk, let's hope it goes well. Haven't decided if I want to do both sides just yet. Thanks for one of the best tutorials on this!
Nice! I'm sure it will turn out fine. I haven't done any woodworking projects like this in almost 20 years. It can seem a little daunting at first but it's actually not bad. I would def recommend doing both sides ... at least sealing both of them. Thanks for watching!
How's have the counter top been holding out so far?
We are in the process of putting in butcher block countertops in our kitchen. I'll have to look into the sealing process you did. Thanks for sharing
The desk is holding up very well actually! Maybe I should do a follow up video for the desk at some point. How's your kitchen countertops looking? I'm not a professional wood worker but if it were me and I were sealing something in the kitchen I would probably use the regular poly so I could be a little more precise with the application. Of course, the triple poly will work but you have to be a little more careful because it is really thick but it doesn't take long at all to finish the sealing process.
I’ve always loved how wood smells! Takes me back to wood shop in HS.
mr_handyman 💯💯💯
Same here man … I hadn’t done anything like this since my HS days!
I was wondering do you absolutely have to use a stain, or can you just use a conditioner and then the sealant? I wanna keep the original color of a board I’m thinking of
You don’t have to use a stain. If I ever do this again I might just use a conditioner and seal it. Thanks for watching!
You didn't raise the grain and re-sand?
That top looks nice! Where is the rest of the standing desk? what do the legs look like? Any standing desk recommendations?
I’m in the process of getting everything setup with the desk. I ended up going with a set of standing desk legs from a company called “fully”. Stay tuned for updates on the desk! Thanks for watching! 👍🏽
Bro! What do you use to wipe down stain… and do I poly one side and wait 2-3 hours and then flip to do other side and wait the 24 hours
About to do a Clubs CounterTop
How do you stain butcher block……
You don’t. You oil it. Don’t care what the use is. Tung oil, miracle oil….. just oil!
So if I understood correctly, you sanded the polyurethane coat?
Yes I lightly sanded after the poly application. It’s necessary because it’s a little rough after drying. Thanks for watching!
@@DancyTV thanks for the quick reply! Yeah, when I added the poly I noticed it was rough to the touch. After you sanded it did you just clean up the dust and called it done? Thanks for your bid by the way, it’s very informative!
@@nestorrobles5059 yeah I cleaned up the dust with a tack cloth and my shop vac. It’s not perfect but definitely a lot smoother than it was.
@@DancyTV Awesome! Thanks again man!
It came out great! I’m thinking about doing this project next week and you made it look nice and simple
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Instructions on can say apply stain cross grain and wipe off with the grain. Not sure why they say that. I figure just wipe the stain on however and wipe excess off.
Lol just by random chance I had bought the same products. This was the exact video I needed
It was meant to be! Have you started the project yet? Thanks for watching!
I think you may have applied an oil based stain and a water based polyurethane. Not sure if those are compatible.
Thank you, I found this very informative & feel super confident now about tackling my own DIY standing desk.
what are you using to keep the wood propped up? great video!
It’s an adjustable sawhorse from a brand called “Stanley”. Thanks for watching!
Nicely Done!
QQ - Do you have to do the Poly after stainining? this is my 1st time doing this project. also doing my butcher block standing desk.
I’m looking to do the very same project, but the triple thick poly is not food grade so might not be the correct sealer for a kitchen project. I’m not certain though-any chance you can confirm whether it is good safe or not?
I did a his/her battle station with beech from Floor and Decor. I went up to 400 grit. I used the orbital with 220 and hand sanded up to 400.
Those rough parts you’re talking about comes out when you sand with that higher grit. Even with the 320 I still had some rough patches.
Good vid.
Hi, I'm thinking of building a dining table using acacia live edge wood kitchen island and steel leg. I'm wonder how is your countertop holding up? Do you need any support in the middle?Thanks！
Hello. Your block looks great. Ive been following your vid as a guide to stain mine. How long did you wait before flipping the board to stain the A side? Also same for the poly?
We need more maps like this with broad landscapes! Something like Supernatural!
So do you suggest using a bristle brush instead of a sponge brush for the poly application? Also how long did you let the desk top cure before putting your stuff on it, have you encountered any stickiness with your computer equipment or was it a completely hard surface ready to go?
Bruh lookin out the garage like someone after you?
Good video. If I only want to apply clear topcoat, no staining, do I need pre-stain conditioner?
good job boss! Look into wipe on poly for your next project, way easier!
The new room is gonna come out dope bro!
Thanks bruh!
What are the dimensions of the countertop?
I appreciate this video, thanks man
Thank you for sharing. What frame did you end up using for the standing desk? It would be nice to see a video of that too.
I used a standing desk frame from a company called fully. I really like it and I've been thinking about doing a video of the desk... maybe I should. Thanks for watching!
wonderful
Thanks!
bro keeps looking at the road, he got ops
What is he looking at?
dont all product need to be either water based or oil based? mixing a oil based stain with a water based poly could cause issues?
To be safe they should be but, I just waited longer to apply the poly and it worked out just fine.
Fuck bro, thank you for making this video!!! I'm gonna try this!!!
No prob. Good luck with the project. It’s actually a lot easier than I thought. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video - why did you choose satin for the poly?
Really should just be your preference for the aesthetic of the piece. Do you prefer a glossy look or a flat look? For example i'm doing kitchen countertops and would prefer a flat look so i'm using satin. I've seen others do computer desks and the high gloss finish looks good. But it's personal preference at the end.
Hey man, thanks. Very informative.
What do you do after you sand after you put the polyurethane
I wiped it with a tack cloth to remove the dust. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project!
So, it looks like you are using an N95 dust mask. That will help from the wood particles from entering your body up to (.3 microns?) into your lungs, but NOT vapors.
I would suggest dilution of the air through use of a mechanical fan.
consult with your doctor and get a spirometry or pulmonary function test before switching to an organic vapor 1/2 mask. See SDS for the varithane products used.
Good looking color sir
ok sorry to call ya ouot but when did you flip the board to do the "bottom" but yet when you were applying the varnish the side you were doing was the "top" im confused wich side am i adding varnish too first?
You can start with either side you’d like. I started with the bottom side of the board and then went with the top side. The camera just stopped recording when I was applying the stain to the top.
Alright I ended up going with a 1 step I guess it is a stain and polyurathane in one. Thanks for the vid was really helpfull.
@@dillonmckenzie5526 ohhhh ok … yeah I used a separate poly and stain.
What happens if you dont go with the grain when staining?
You’ll get those brush streaks in the stain and it’ll be really easy to see.
good info. Im about to stain me something
Thanks for watching! What ya working on?
What size butcher block did you get?
Who cares. How did the stain work?
did u hand sand it or electric sander?
I hand sanded it and used a tack cloth and shop vac after to remove the dust.
Nice bro, any tips after finishing the project in order to avoid the drips you got from when you stained the sides?
I would just be careful and try not to put so much stain on the brush. Also I would wipe the bottom side of the board immediately. It actually turned out ok because you can’t even really see it once you’ve applied the rest of the stain.
@@DancyTV 🔥🔥🔥
Thanks,enjoyed the video
Thanks for watching! Planning on trying this project yourself?
Great video.
Thanks!
how long did you leave the butcher block opened before you applied the first coat? i wanna get the same block and the company says you need to seal it within 24-48 hours or itll warp so if i wait for the poly to cure on one side will it warp?
So I would follow those guidelines. I waited for a day where the weather was ok and completed the entire project within 48 hrs.
I've worked with both types of polys and I'd say the normal one is better for first timers. There are a couple of things you can do to prevent streaking. Go off both edges. In this video he started left then went off the right edge. Reverse that motion and go off the left edge as well. That way will ensure that you get enough product on the edges. For streaking, be generous with your application. Lather it on then user your brush to flatten and even out your product. It will ensure that you keep a wet wedge. If you try to apply just enough and run out half way down the length of the board like he did, you run the risk creating a break in the eveness once your finish dries. Lastly, with triple thick, you must get it perfect. If you miss a spot and have to do a second coat, that shit will be too thick and take forever to cure. It will dent from anything you rest on it until it cures. For normal poly, you will cover all missed spots by the third coat and because the coats are thinner, cure time is faster.