99% of Beginners Don't Know These 5 Wood Finishing Secrets!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 มิ.ย. 2024
- Wood finishing is easy if you avoid these 5 mistakes. I'll show you how to properly sand, stain, and clear coat your woodworking projects.
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0:00 How to Stain and Finish Wood
0:54 Removing Wood Glue
1:58 How to Fill Knot Holes in Wood
3:46 How to Sand Wood
5:25 Prepare Wood for Stain
6:20 The Secret to flawless wood finish on pine
7:08 How to Apply Stain to Wood
9:35 Circle Marks in Wood Finish
10:02 Light Spots after Staining Wood
10:53 Wood Staining Mistakes
12:17 How to Apply Laquer to Wood
12:54 Polyurethane vs Laquer
18:18 Applying Laquer Tips and Tricks - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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hey, whats a good blade for a 12" miter saw (not sliding).
@@terrystucker6433 I like to use 80 tooth blades on my miter saw. CMT Chrome blades are my favorites.
Hi Matt. Thank you for the helpful tips! Any suggestions if you don't want to stain the wood but just want to enhance/bring out the natural markings of the wood?
Matt, this has nothing to do with woodworking but I am asking for you to lift me and my family up in prayer. I’ve been under a unmeasurable amount of stress from work, and I feel the Holy Ghost stirring in my spirit. I know I have backslidden and under conviction. We just now got back in church and the moment I walked in I felt an unexplainable load lifted off me! Just asking for prayers because I need all the help I can get to keep me dug in and stay planted in the Lords path!!! Thank you for all you do brother!!!!
Matt, this has nothing to do with woodworking but I am asking for you to lift me and my family up in prayer. I’ve been under a unmeasurable amount of stress from work, and I feel the Holy Ghost stirring in my spirit. I know I have backslidden and under conviction. We just now got back in church and the moment I walked in I felt an unexplainable load lifted off me! Just asking for prayers because I need all the help I can get to keep me dug in and stay planted in the Lords path!!! Thank you for all you do brother!!!!
A trick I learned from my dad was using good old-fashioned brown grocery bags as sandpaper. It's my good to for a final sanding. Sounds crazy, but I dare anyone to try it. And they're free with a purchase of goods 😉
Hi Instead of using prestain which by the way is hard to find in the uk we tend to use teabags for pine and high tannin soft woods just get 2 teabags and put in a cup of warm water and leave till cool then paint on your pine and let dry this does 2 things it brings out the tannin in the wood and stops blotching especially on soft woods it also raise's the grain which you can sand down. Great videos by the way
I use my sanding dust with wood glue to fill my knots or repairs.
Let dry over night saves tons of money
I can vouch for this statement. I do the same thing,and it works great.
Exelente comentario 😂
Here is a tip from a former aircraft painter. When ever you sand anything before you apply a coating, rub the item with tack cloth. It will remove all dust and leave a little residue to help apply your coating.
Before a tack cloth I take one of those blue paper towels you get at homedepot etc, wet it, strain as much water out as possible, and get most of the dust off that way. If it's something relatively small maybe just a tack cloth would do though
Yup , I used to paint custom hot rods and tack rags are a must. Any time you sand, even between coats.
@@LucyKaboomreusing same tack between grits?
@@subphonic8585maybe with bikes but with wood working there's no need to tack cloth between sanding grits, just blow it off with an air compressor it's good enough. Also Tack cloth really isn't that important if your just gonna use stain, you won't tell the difference if you use it or not as long as it's clean to start with, air compressor saves me a lot of money
Duhh
Actually you don't have to sand that spot back out. I was recently shown a tip in which we tore a piece of 120 grit sandpaper off of a used disc. We then dipped it in the stain and lightly sanded the spot with the stain on the paper, then wipe off the excess. Repeat until you get the desired color. It cleaned up my rookie mistakes pretty quickly, and there were several. Mistake 1 is real...avoid at all costs if possible! Titebond is water soluble when still wet, so as Matt shows, wiping squeeze out off with a damp paper towel or wet cloth fixes a lot of problems before they get going.
When I worked in the mill room of a big door shop, we were constantly steaming out dings and divots, especially on the six panel pine doors. We used good ol’ brown paper towels, damp but not soaking wet and a hobby heating iron with a head about 1 1/2” by 3 inches. A household clothes iron with the steam turned off will do the same thing. Light sanding afterwards to knock down the raised grain is
usually needed.
We used to toss our stain rags in a five gallon bucket half filled with water.
We had a door shop and ran into the same problems. Rather than steam we'd use a wet sponge and squeeze water drops on the imperfections. After the grain raised and dried we'd sand it smooth. Amazing the size of imperfections that can be fixed by doing this.
I definitely love that Deft Satin Lacquer, probably my favorite, and definitely one of the easiest and most forgiving finishes. Great video!
Thank you!
Learned all of these issues the hard way on my early wood projects. Sanding the stain off and correcting the surface then re staining solved it. Lesson learned.
Great video, as usual.
One tip that I've learned.
If you want a matte or flat "clear" finish, use the gloss formulation for all but the final coat. This especially important if you're going for the "deep" look on the piece. (I mostly have done lathe turned projects where that's more common.)
The matte and flat finish effect is accomplished by adding solids to the mix. Using that for all of the coats can make the final finish look a bit "muddy", or "cloudy", because of the extra solids in the undercoats.
Hello Matt thanks for the time you take showing and teaching about woodworking etc you make it simple to understand and very informative sincerely wishing you n family the best God Blessings to you folks
Thank you! That answers many questions of flaws I've found on my projects. 👊
finally a good video other than product videos
Great video. I feel like I made each of these mistakes when I started woodworking. Sometimes we learn our best lessons from our mistakes.
The key is to avoid the extra sanding. Clamp marks can be avoided by simply making little squares with cork to protect the wood, especially soft woods. The tool marks on the legs should have been sanded before the assembly, it's a lot easier. A little more care up front means a lot less sanding.
Matt, New to woodworking. I really enjoy your videos. Very informative and easy to understand and apply. Keep up the good work. Frank in Missouri
So glad I checked out your video, it is EXCELLENT! Learned a couple of tricks particularly the contoured pad. I’m a pre-pre novice attempting to sand and finish my basement stairs so learning as much as possible before embarking. God bless.
Great video. I learned so much from this single video. I've watched about 5 videos prior to this one. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Your real good at what you do. I just got a 45’x24’ workshop and I’ll put you on my flat screen while I’m working!
I consider myself a better finisher than builder, but I’m always learning, thank you very much. Years ago I turned a small store bought “pond” into one big enough for me to float around in and I was clueless. After watching video after video I found videos of what not to do. They helped tremendously, I rarely pass on videos like this.
Thanks for the tips brother. Love your shirt.
Very informative. Thanks Matt.
Very well explained and very professional, thanks a lot!
Thank you so much
Beautiful! very informative.
I think this is the most helpful video I've seen of yours...and I've watched many of them! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the info - always learning ! Be safe 😎
For the clamp marks, I'm a fan of putting a wet rag over the mark and ironing it. The wood swells up and light sanding usually blends it right back to normal.
That would be my suggestion also, because the wood is compressed in that area. Sanding isn't really a good way to get rid of those marks.
you are spot on with your wood glue/stain outcome
, Excellent video. I wish I had seen this when I first started. I've made all of these mistakes but I still learned some tips from this video. Thanks!
Good vid! I have been staining things for years. Good to know i have been doing (most!) things right! I really appreciate your deliberate mistakes. As a visual person, actually seeing the mistake is more concrete.
Thanks for sharing! Great advice...
Thank you, Matt.
Very informative once again, Cheers
Awesome tips. Much appreciated. 👍
Nice vid. Thank you.
Put your stain rags in a bucket of water when done. I've seen rags spontaneously combust in a matter of minutes if the sun is beaming on them. You can also spread them out to prevent combustion. Waded rags combust a lot easier.
I love the stains at Home Depot that state prestaining not required. They give a consistent stain on pine. I never use pre stain conditioner now.
great educational video. thank you keep up the good work
😊Great tips, 👍🏼I use to get those wood glue spots all the time. Never even new until the stain was complete.
Also I use a scrap piece between the project and the clamp. That way the clamp marks don’t show up
1st time viewer and 1st time commenting on anything. I enjoyed how you talked things though and your explanations. I will actually subscribe, maybe.
Love your channel and thanks for sharing all your info. Plus, I see your shirts. God bless brother!
You just gave me some information on Lacquer that I need to know.
Thank you very much :)
EXCELLENT!! thank you!!
For the clamp pressure marks, use a dampened rag and a hot iron to run over each depression. The steam will swell the wood fibers back to surface. Then do the sanding phase as typical. This trick also works on dents especially in softwoods.
This is a very helpful video! Thanks! And, thanks for explaining all the reasons why you should fill in a knot hole with wood glue! :)
your tee-shirts mean a lot to me by directing me to read something new or over again. I thank you.
Great tips and Thank You!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you I will definitely try the lacquer looks great. Polyurethane has been my go to. I used to think lacquer left a yellow haze. I will try the spray. Thanks again.
those colors look good together
Excellent!!! Thnx.!
Hey Matt, that's a GREAT video. If we start with proper techniques when learning a trade, it will carry through as we grow. A simple stool it the perfect project to "test" your skills. Cheap-er to build, you end up with a usable project. Thanks again! !! !!!
Caribbean viewer locked on....luv the tea...
Thanks!!!
Lacquer is the choice of furniture makers. Dry time and Durability are the some of the reasons. I have used Deft Lacquer for years and have had great results spraying and brushing. Love the content, God Bless 731woodworks!
Very nice 🎉
Thank you so much!
This is so great! Thanks a million! 😀
Man, I just love your informational videos!!!
God Bless Friend!!! 🙃
I appreciate that!
let me point out one thing. Early in the video you show 2cans of stain. Varathane and Minwax. These are 2 completely different things. Minwax is a penetrating oil stain. You apply it it soaks in and that is it. That color is the color you will end up with. even mineral spirits won't effect it. Varathane, however is a pigmented oil stain. you put it on and wait then wipe off the excess. If it is too dark take some mineral spirits and you tone down the color. It won't all come off, but it is adjustable.
Putting on more will give you a much darker version, not so with Minwax. Also, a dark color of the Varathane can be used to completely change the color of a stained piece. Also, a rag with mineral spirits can be used to blend the color with Varathane.
Awesome Tips!!!! Thank You!!!!!! Much Appreciated!!!!👍😎🤯
Great technical vid
The scenario of the used rags spontaneously combusting actually happened to me albeit involving an autobody shop. My car was in the shop for a bumper repair and the owner of the shop, who lived nearby, was varnishing his stairs after work. For whatever reason he decided to dispose of the rags in the garbage in the shop that other rags with oils and other car related chemicals were thrown in. That night, the rags combusted and burned down the whole shop with my car inside. My car was in the paint part of the shop with its own fire suppression so it didn't completely go up in flames but the white car came out looking like a roasted marshmellow. A nice golden brown color. I actually walked away from the whole ordeal with a new and nicer car for less than the car that was in the shop. Other people's cars outside of the shop were completely burned to a crisp unfortunately.
I really needed this video.
Very complete and well presented
Glad you liked it!
I've used newspaper as a fine sandpaper to brush off fine particles after finishing with laquer. Works great.
Watch out that the inks don't stain the wood. I buy rolls of brown paper from the orange store to use as a final denibber
Excellent!!!
Glad you like it!
New sub from uk, great vlog thanks for the advice on staining, as they say we learn every day, the stain on the rags im sure when rolled up and bin tossed can act as a catalyst, heating up on curing, ive seen this happen before with contact adhesive, catches folk out. Stay safe & blessed
thanks for not being annoying like most youtube videos these days. what kind of wood screws do you use? thanks for helping us new to woodworking.
I just bought these plans and this is a project me and my two boys are building now. Thank you for the very informative videos.
Regarding dry glue under stain, I use hide glue around finish surfaces whenever possible, even when dry it will clean up with water and doesn't show through stain. Also when staining I keep 220 sand paper handy and often you can wet sand the stain to make the glue spot disappear. It doesn't always work but its worth a shot to save a lot of work.
Thanks for some great videos
Very helpful video!
Glad you think so!
I like to use the Starbond pump activator instead of the aerosol version. It is much more economical.
Really enjoyed the 2 instructional videos on this table.I learned a lot.And some things that made me think"that's why that happened." Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
P-gun with a little bit thanks for hitting on the lacquer. I'm looking to make some corner shelving for some pots and pans instead of keeping them in my cabinets and I was worried about marring up the finish with the you know abrasiveness of the bottom of the pan. I was going to use polyurethane to seal it and to get some protection but I'm definitely going to use lacquer now. Appreciate it.
Newbie here...spray on laquer! Mind=blown!
Deft lacquer is excellent. Have used it a lot on furniture repurposing.
I used to use only the spray cans. Now I buy it by the gallon and use a Critter sprayer. So much faster and cheaper.
Great video. One thing I suggest when spraying lacquer. Start spraying close to you, know continue your pattern across the table. When you do this, any overspray will melt back when you continue on spraying as you move forward.
Thanks Matt I have always done polyurethane and have never been satisfied with the finish going to try laquar
Great video, thank you. The colored superglue is something I have to try. Clear glue is visible even dabbing stain under it first.
Man! I wish I had watched this. You said you will have hurt feelings... I started crying! Lol! Everything that I shouldn't have done... I did. I tried to sand it out. It was nearly impossible. I learned something the hard way. Great video.
Good call on mentioning the rags catching on fire. I'm a professional painter and I've seen it happen to a few guys in the trades. I like to sumerge mine in a bucket of water
I know it was just for demonstration purposes, but I did giggle when he placed them on a bunch of dried leaves and pine needles.
Wadding up oily rags then dropping them in a pile on top of dead leaves and dry pine needles seems like a recipe for starting a fire. I was always taught to lay rags flat until they're dry THEN dispose of them. My finishing projects tend to be small, so I can usually get away with draping rags around the top of a metal trash can (making sure there's no overlap) while they dry. I know some people who soak their rags in water, then wring them out, before lying them flat to dry. If I were using tons of rags during finishing, I'd probably buy one of those all-steel Justrite oily waste disposal cans.
Oily rags dumped into a trash can could result in a fire because there may not be enough air movement in the can to properly dissipate the fumes from the rags, causing them to self combust. Putting them outside in open air will solve this problem. Unless of course you make a huge pile of rags.
@@gardening-in-the-woods the problem isn't fumes, it's the heat generated by the oils curing. Too many rags with too much oil in close proximity can generate enough heat to ignite the cloth. The resulting fire could ignite the other contents of your trash can (ex: wood scraps) or potentially even the can itself (if it's a flammable plastic or another flammable material). Purpose-built metal oily waste disposal cans, like the ones made by Justrite, limit the availability of oxygen (which is required for a fire to start) and contain that fire should the worst happen. Laying rags flat outdoors ON A NON-FLAMMABLE surface (like concrete or brick) is also an acceptable solution. Piling rags on top of dry leaves and dead pine needles, like Matt did, is the wrong way to go; that's the kindling I use when I'm TRYING to start a fire!
@@ScottS360 Perhaps I am a little off on the science, but my point is that if you have the rags outside where the air can cool any of the potential heat from oils curing etc. you have solved the problem. Confining the rags in an areas where they cannot vent is the problem. I always place my oily rags outside, usually hang them on something so they can air out, that way there is no possible way they can burn down my shop. Besides, why would you want to smell the stinky rags in your shop as they are drying.
@@gardening-in-the-woods inside versus outside doesn't matter. A big pile of oily rags outside is just as likely to self-combust as a big pile of oily rags inside: chemical reactions don't stop just because you change their location. If you spread the rags out, either inside or outside, so the heat isn't allowed to build up you won't have any problems. If you put them in a sealed metal container which is designed to prevent fires, like the ones favored by larger and commercial shops, you're not going to smell anything until you open the lid on the container.
@@ScottS360 Sorry, I did not see a big pile of oily rags in the video. Just one rag and a pair of gloves. I appreciate your concern with regards to fire hazards,but investing in a commercial firesafe box for a couple oily rags a week doesn't make sense to me. Outside air is more than sufficient to mitigate any potential fire in this video.
good collection of tips esp since it's project focused rather than just finishing or just sanding. For northeast and colder climates though lacquer has some downsides. Lacquer develops blushing more in the cold which really caused problems for my large cherry top table which I did in near zero degree temperatures in my garage. Also water rings showed up really easy on the lacquer surface. as you said the fumes lacquer causes are really bad esp in a garage workshop. I ended up sanding off the lacquer finish in spring and used wipe on poly which is much more forgiving than poly spray cans. I could never spray evenly with a spray can.
If you have a hvlp or lvlp sprayer you should try using precat lacquer. It is not only more durable but does not fog up like the wiping or spray can lacquer he uses here. I also thin my lacquer down with acetone not lacquer thinner it speeds the drying process up dramatically.
0000 steel wool pad and paste wax also help get an amazing smooth final finish 👍
Thank you Matt, great video as always. I made every one of those mistakes on my first build but I guess that's how we learn isn't it, that feeling of seeing glue show up after staining is just the worst isn't it but it sure makes you more careful on the next build! Applying masking tape around joints before applying glue can certainly help prevent nasty surprises! For those like me in the UK Rustins make a pre stain conditioner available from Amazon 👍 And as per another comment I also use teabag water which adds tannins to pine for a nice natural colour change. I leave two bags in a jar of water (doesn't have to be hot water cold works just as well) for several hours at least and just paint it on with a foam brush.
Pine is so difficult to stain it should be considered advanced. But pine is so fun because it's so soft
I have had good success steaming out clamp marks with a wet cloth and a clothing iron or heat gun.
Finally a TH-cam woodworker used lacquer! FYI if you want better lacquer find yourself a Sherwin-Williams and get pre-catalyzed lacquer, you'll thank me later.
Another Tip... Always, and I mean always add Lacquer Sanding Sealer to your finishing steps.
Can you explain the difference between pre-cat and "regular" lacquer like Deft? I always hear that term but never what it means. And are they applied the same way?
@@JasonPeltier sure! Pre-cat (Catalyzed) lacquer is formulated with a substance that increases the rate of chemical reaction. This substance being the catalyst. Simply put, Pre-cat lacquer dries rediculously quickly and very hard in my experience. I find it extremely durable and moisture resistent compared to any other finish I have used on kitchen cabinets. This HAS to be specifically applied with a spray gun. It simply cures to quickly to brush. Most lacquers I would not recommend using a brush unless specifically specified as "brushing". Hope this answers your question!
That's a nice pair of boot there Matt.
To really get a smooth finish with lacquer, give the final coat a couple of hours to cure and then crumple up some craft paper or a brown paper sack and buff it lightly. That will smooth out any tiny nibs that might have popped up from dust (or pollen if you are spraying outside) and make the satin finish even more satin-y.
I picked up a tip to use white 3M scrubbing pads. I use one to hand buff between each coat, and also on the final coat, and the difference in smoothness is very noticeable. I'd only use sand paper if I had to fix a run or remove something stuck in the finish.
I’m going to stick to 731’s tips 😂.
If you guys make a video of your tips to show us let us know! I’d love learning but I’m a more of a prove it to me kinda guy than a type it in and I don’t know what’s gonna happen! Hehe.
I’d agree. Matt confirms it.
@@DayTrader__ Test it. Why not. There are going to be lots of things you will want to do, and should test it first.
This does work
Thank you for sharing information and especially the safety part. Us garage expeers sometimes forget about that info.
I use an old 1 gallon metal paint can to seal up rags in with some water. I let it sit for a couple days.
Loved it! ❤ I struggle with over sanding and using too low a grit. Do you have videos to help with that?
For the CA, I use starbond as well. If you are doing knotholes, I suggest if it's big enough to do a seal coat, do it. Use cheap thin foam brush, seal coat and spray (very thin). What happens is it will bubble on you underneath if you just pour without seal (typically, not always!). Starbond will say one drop per square inch at most. This means it's not deep pour, so on a 1/2" knothole, if you pour it in there then hit it with the spray to set it you will get bubbles UNDERNEATH. What I suggest is you wait about 5-10 minutes and if a bubble appears hit it with a heatgun or a quick pass with a torch. Rinse and repeat for about 20 minutes or so, then set it and that normally is good.
Save or buy a metal paint can for your combustible rags. I seal them inside to contain flames if it happens and also limit oxygen. Then, take them out and throw them away on trash day.
There we go, I should wait for the whole video 🤓
I'm a Body Repair Man by trade. I live to sand.😎
I tell you from experience, even if you blow that sanding dust will be in them corners and crevices if you don't use a rag/towel along with the compressed air, then go back and double check for lint, and try not drip any sweat on it while you're at it.
Could you re do another project pricing video. I can't remember your last one but with 2023 rolling in and pockets are tighter than ever what do you suggest for pricing. Also, yes lacquer I use the cans but was wondering if I could do bigger projects with it I do have a Fuji paint sprayer for it.
I feel like you’re on the right track about lacquer but if you’re going to use a hvlp or a lvlp spray gun to spray go ahead and get precat lacquer from Sherwin Williams. It is much more durable and does not fog up on you like brushing lacquer. I started off spraying mixed down brushing lacquer and it’s not even close as to using precat lacquer. Also when thinning down lacquer consider using Acetone it will speed up the drying process. Hope this helps