I bought the same exact butcher block from Home Depot, and had no idea what the best products, finish, and process was. Not only did you show me all that, but it was also on a slab very similar to mine. Now I know the exact stain and finish I want on the table knowing yours turned out amazing! thank you for this video, it really saved me a ton of work and possible regret with my choice is stain.
As a wood worker, you’d did a pretty good job. Personally, I don’t like mixing oil and water based. Sometimes, depending on your temperature or humidity, the oil based products can take longer to fully dry. Just my preference though. Also, after the very last coat of finish I do on any project, I take a small piece of brown paper from a bag or whatever you have, and rub down the surface. It knocks off all the little tiny nibs and gives you a great feeling finish.
Sir, I'm working on my butcher block and imagine my surprise when your face popped up with this video. Greetings from the PNW from your former 6'9" coworker who left ten years ago and has embraced the DIY lifestyle living on some acres up here. For what it's worth, your voice comes across very nicely on my speakers and you have really nice tone and tempo. Hope all is well with you and those down south. -NM
@@coffeeNbacon Hey brother, it’s so nice to hear from you! I’m glad to hear you’re doing well. Things are a little crazy down here in L.A. because of the wildfires, so we’re busy dealing with that. Stay safe and God bless! 🙏🏼
Found your video over a year ago and decided to save it for when I upgraded my desk. Bought the butcher block this week so it’s time! Only difference is I unfortunately couldn’t find espresso stain so I decided on Jacobean. Thanks for your video man, it’s a big help!
@@thomaskeene5183 Great to hear that! Just take your time and have fun with it. Let me know if you have any questions, I’m glad to help. Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJankythanks Man! I’m getting started on it today for the holiday. What was your method for staining and sealing the top and bottom without ruining it while flipping it?
I’m glad my video helped you! I’d love to see how your project turned out. Would you be willing to share some pictures? You can email them to: ibjanky@yahoo.com Thank you and God bless! 🙏🏼
20+ year painter here...its best to apply a sanding sealer before the poly goes on. I would stain, sanding sealer, sand, wipe down then apply my poly coats. The finish on the poly will end up better and require less coating.
I think this is what I’m going through right now. My Havea is very porous in certain areas. After applying a couple coats of poly, it looks like it’s being soaked up by the pores and it’s coming out uneven when you look at it in the light. I’ll probably just keep applying layers on the B side until it comes out even, but Im definitely going to give sanding sealer a try when I do the A side.
This is perfect! Just bought a house with an unfinished butcher block island in the kitchen. This is perfect, with all the steps for staining and finishing. Thank you so much!
Very good video. I have a hevea bb from Lowes. I would like to give it an oil finish, but will probably do the same poly final coat as you, for a couple reasons. 1) It's a lot fast than the oil finishes, some of which can take a month to cure, 2) I'm working in a community shop and don't want my project to be in the way for a long time, and 3) It's for a countertop in my van, which I may rent out in the future. Oil finishes show stains much more easily than a poly finish. I might go with a matte finish. The satin is OK, but still a bit glossy. Good for your intended use as a desk though.
@@DavesGuitarPlanet Good luck with your project! Let me know how it turns out, and don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any questions. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Another great video. Props to you iBJanky I utilized this video in staining my butcher block with just a slightly different approach. I decided to go with a oil based stain and finish by Min-wax, the stain Provincial 211 and their Poly Warm Satin. There is a longer wait time when using the oil based product which is well worth the wait in my opinion. I did opt out of the pre-stain and used water instead which is a process called "grain raising or water popping". Since acacia wood is a hard wood this process works great and can save a couple dollars but its all about preference. Bjanky Im convinced the video does no justice on how the butcher block looks in person. Mine came out greeeeat thanks to you laying down a great foundation in this video.... THANKS BROHAM!
@@noroomforgloom video went up on my channel yesterday. Not quite as detailed as this one but this video was extremely helpful in my process. I’m very happy with results. Thanks again!!
Just watched your video on setting up the desk and watched this one to learn how to stain it! I love your videos and REALLY appreciate the showing/listing of the materials needed! I love the idea of a butcher block/countertop versus the lower quality ikea desk tops for the standing desk. I think this is a great and informative video and will be doing this myself! You've earned my like and subscription!
@@iBJanky One question I have is when you were staining I saw that you had it raised on cardboard, would I need to wait for one side to dry prior to flipping the board over to stain the other side or did you do it all at once?
@@jdubbfps I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. You just repeat this process until you’ve applied however many coats of stain or poly you need. I hope that helps. Anything else, let me know 😎👍🏼
Ok I have never done anything like this at all. We are putting in kitchen cabinets and butcher block countertops. I have a couple questions. 1. Do I need to use like a food grade poly? 2. Is 3 coats enough for a kitchen counter? 3. How do I know which way the wood grain is? 4. How do I know what side should be the top or bottom?? 5. Will following these steps make it rather smooth?? I don’t want a bumpy counter. We are trying to save as much as possible and your video was awesome. I have three sections to do so fingers crossed I do a good job. lol. Thank you so much for showing this!
1. According to FDA regulations, the typical clear wood finishes that dry to a hard film, including polyurethane, are considered food safe. Wait to use the surface until the finish is completely dried, and clean it before allowing food contact. Polyurethane is a fine choice to use on a counter, as long as you don't use the counter as a cutting board. If you do cut directly on the polyurethane surface it will be damaged. Mineral oil would be a good finish for a wood counter that is to be used as a cutting board, but you have to renew the mineral oil fairly often. 2. Yes, 3 coats is enough for a kitchen counter. Just make sure the existing coat is dry before applying another coat. 3. You can use your fingernail against the wood to determine the direction of the grain, if your nail catches, you know that you are moving against the grain. 4. It doesn't matter which side you pick. Wood is wood on either side. You get to decide which side you would like to be the top or bottom. 5. The butcher blocks sold at Home Depot or Lowes are pretty smooth already, they aren't bumpy at all. A light sanding makes it even smoother. I hope that helps. Thank you for watching, and good luck with your project! 😎👍
Great results. You Americans are way too lucky to have all these products available. In Europe we have nothing other than cheap non brand ''garbage''. Practicing wood work is so stressful for us
@@s.miller8250 What kind of legs were you thinking of putting? I used this and they came with the necessary screws to mount it onto the butcher block: a.co/d/bL74KCu
phenomenal video. My suggestion, which is totally optional/personal preference, would be to use a router and round off the edges. More comfy for your forearms
I gotta say…after the first stain coat I thought you ruined your butcher block. But the end result was absolutely beautiful! Very informative and detailed video. Thanks so much.
Awesome! Thank you for this. I’m doing the same exact thing, except I used Havea wood, I kind of wish I bought a hardwood like acacia or birch because mine does look a little blotchy, even with conditioner..but you live and learn. My company paid for the block and I paid for the legs so whatever🤷🏼♂️
I can’t find any food safe polyurethane, but I want to make my butcher block counter tops shiny like that, do you know if it’s food safe once fully cured?
According to FDA regulations, the typical clear wood finishes that dry to a hard film, including polyurethane, are considered food safe. Wait to use the surface until the finish is completely dried, and clean it before allowing food contact. Polyurethane is a fine choice to use on a counter, as long as you don't use the counter as a cutting board. If you do cut directly on the polyurethane surface it will be damaged. Mineral oil would be a good finish for a wood counter that is to be used as a cutting board, but you have to renew the mineral oil fairly often. I hope that helps. Thank you for watching! 😎👍
@@iBJanky I just ordered mine today. I got the Acacia Ebony Stained 60-in x 30-in x 1.5-in. $159.00. It’s almost $200 cheaper than Home Depot. It’s already pre-stain but I need to seal it 🙏. Lowe’s should give you commission 😂
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
That was a fantastic instructional video. I Reeeaallllyyy like the way you explained how to apply and when to apply all the items. It also helps a lot when you show what each item is. Your videos are very clear and well put together. This project is going to look great once completed. Btw I love those green teas from Costco. Your neighborhood looks so nice and clean. Great job and keep up the fantastic work. Looking forward to the next one.
Amazing video! Had the same idea with a butchers block standing desk and was going to leave the block unfinished until I came across your video. Hope you don’t mind, I copied the stain step by step😂 looks AMAZING!!
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. You just repeat this process until you’ve applied however many coats of stain or poly you need. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky quick question, say for the first coating of stain, do you stain top and bot surface at the same time and let it dry? or you stain top first let it dry, then do the same for bottom? i saw you put something in between the block and the table.
@@patrickwang8867 I stain the bottom side first, then I flip it over and use these things called painter's pyramids which goes in between the block and the table. Those handy little things allow you to stain both sides without having to wait for one side to dry first. It will cut your waiting time in half. The reason I do the bottom side first is because the pyramids might cause little dimples on the surface, just because of the block's weight. But since they're on the bottom side, the dimples wont be visible.
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Excellent instructional video. I'm not sure if you're still around on here but I had a question about mounting the top to a desk frame (ikea idasen) What type and size screws and washers do I need? A lot of people say pan head screws are ideal but I'm not sure on specific ones to buy
@@inspire1ove Pan head wood screws are fine. Just make sure they fit through the mounting holes on the frame, and they go deep enough into the wood. I personally did not have to use washers. The screws were more than enough. I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
when you applied the poly, did you do all the coats on the top and edges, then flip it and do the same amount of coats on the underside? or did you do a coat on the top and edges, wait for it to dry, then flip it and do a coat on the underside? if that makes any sense
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky i appreciate the detailed response. i ordered a block from lowe’s similar to yours, and if it’s not damaged like the last one i should be able to start working on it tonight. when you attached the legs into the top, did you drill pilot holes or did you just drill them directly in. thanks again!
@@sunfade It’s completely optional, but I drilled small pilot holes before installing the legs. I found that it made it easier screwing them in. Hope that helps, and good luck with your project! 😎👍🏼
Great video. I purchased the espresso color butcher block from Lowes and I want to maintain the color. Should I skip the staining part and proceed with the process as it is shown on the video?
Amazing, I’m in the process of following this video tutorial. you mention the painters pyramid in another comment. Unfortunately I’m already 24 hours in and can’t find a near buy store that carries it and I don’t have enough time to get order one online. So all the time you have I’d just have to double it since it one side at a time? So, does one side with conditioners, let sit for 5 minutes, wipe excess away then let dry for 20 minutes then repeat? A total of 50 minutes? Thanks!
@@djeisoncanuto8453 Yes, that’s pretty much it. The painters pyramids cut your waiting time in half since you can immediately start working on the other wide without having to wait for the side you just worked on to dry. I’m glad you found my video helpful. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Just bought the same exact butcher block. Thanks so much for the video. Do you also stain and seal both sides as well? Im using this as a counter top for my laundry room and nobody will see the botton
So sorry, I literally just hears you say that you do both sides after I clicked submit comment lol. I should probably watch the entire video before commenting next time
@@str8kronic It's a personal choice whether or not you want to stain and seal both sides. I personally did both sides, but for your particular situation, I don't think it's necessary. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project! 👍
Thank you so much for this video. Very well explained. The same acacia wood table top arrived for me, so I am going to attempt the same process! I am thinking to skip the staining as I don't want as dark wood. As I will be shooting videos on top, I am trying to minimize any gloss or sheen. Any recommendations?
You can certainly skip the staining part, and just do the coats of poly. Just make sure to lightly sand the surfaces before applying the poly. They make poly in a matte finish, and it isn’t glossy or shiny at all. That’s probably what you’ll need. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your project! 😎👍🏼
When you apply to stain, do you do both sides at the same time and then wait 2 hours for it to dry? Or do you do one side, wait two hours, then the other?
Yes, I stained both sides, but I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain… I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Thanks for watching! I got the Sparrow Peak Acacia 72”x30” Here’s the link to the one I got: www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Acacia-6-ft-x-30-in/5001790771
Awesome video!! Love how you explained everything..going to follow it exactly how you did it. Actually starting it today...thank you very much ..happy new year sir!
Awesome video! Gonna use a lot of what you did on my own butcher block. Question tho, how did you do the bottom side of the wood? Did you just flip the wood while it was still drying or do you go through the whole process on one side and then the next day do the other side?
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I hope that helps. Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
This is an awesome tutorial, had a few questions as I just started applying poly to my butcher's block atm: 1. Was your tabletop entirely smooth to touch in the end? I can still feel the 'grains' on my surface - similar to what you see at 11:57 (the small black lines scattered throughout the table). This was even after sanding it with 220 grit + wood conditioner + staining 2. Did the wood stain smell linger even after you turned it into a desk? If so how did you end up addressing it?
1. My tabletop was pretty smooth, but of course I can still feel the small ridges and natural grains of the wood. I did not have to get the wood smooth as glass. 2. The wood stain lingered for a few days, then it fades away eventually. You don’t have to do anything, it will go away on its own after some time. Thanks for watching my video! 🙏🏼
That’s completely up to you. Some people don’t care that the underside is unfinished since they won’t be seeing it anyway. For me personally, I prefer to have all sides finished. I hope that helps, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Yes, I stained both sides, but I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain… I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed. I hope that helps. Anything else, let me know 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky awesome thanks! It all makes sense. Just one question, so you applied one coat to the bottom, waited 2 hrs applied 2 coat and then did the flip to apply 2 coats on the top? Or... you applied one coat on bottom, filled immediately, applied one coat on top, flipped again, applied 2nd coat on bottom, flipped again, applied 2nd coat on top?
@@m.p._YT I applied one coat to the bottom, flipped it immediately, then applied one coat to the top. I then waited for about two hours to allow both sides to dry simultaneously. After both sides had dried, I took the pyramids out and repeated the process again, starting with the bottom side first.
It’s personal preference, but I like to treat both sides. Some people choose to leave the bottom part raw/untreated since they figure they won’t be looking at the underside anyway. The choice is up to you. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Yes, I stained both sides, but I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain… I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky Helps a lot.. thank you so much. I just ordered my butcher block from Lowe's, hopefully it comes in 1 piece and not damaged. planning to stain and poly next weekend. Getting Flex spot E7 plus as a stand. Your video gave me confidence proceed with the project.
I just did my floors in this exact process and looking to do my butcher block counters in my kitchen the same way. Do I need to worry about chemicals these products may give off??
It’s personal preference, but I like to treat both sides. Some people choose to leave the bottom part raw/untreated since they figure they won’t be looking at the underside anyway. The choice is up to you. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Very informative video. I just have a few questions, if you can help me: 1.) Can we substitute the conditioner for some other oil? Is so, what kind do you recommend? I'm wanting to use my countertop for a desk, not for the kitchen. 2.) The countertop instructions stated to seal within 48 hours, but the shrink-wrap was already open a bit prior to me purchasing it, and that was almost a month ago...Luckily it's not humid in my home (because it's winter), so can I still seal it to its full potential without worrying about warping, bowing etc.)? 3.) Can I do all this in my garage rather than outside? 4.) Do we have to do all of these steps in one go, or can we apply the oil on one day, and stain it a month later if I don't have the time? 5). What does it mean, "Don't go against the grain"? 6.) Do I need to use the Polyurethane frequently to keep the board maintained, or use the conditioner or oil for that?
1. Just use the same Varathane pre-stain wood conditioner I used. You can get it at Home Depot for cheap. I used my butcher block for a desk as well. 2. Yes, you can just seal it normally. It will be fine. 3. I did all the work in my garage as well. Just make sure to open a door or a window for ventilation. 4. You can do it at your own pace. You don't have to finish everything at once. 5. Find the grain direction simply by running your gloved hand or a shop rag along the board surface. If you feel snags and splinters, then you're moving against the grain. 6. Use a mild detergent and water: Just like with oil-based polyurethane, you’ll want to start by mixing a small amount of mild detergent with warm water in a bucket. Dip a soft cloth or sponge into the solution and gently scrub the surface. Be sure to wring out the cloth or sponge before wiping the surface to avoid excess water. Avoid abrasive cleaners: Abrasive cleaners can scratch the surface of the polyurethane and dull its shine. Instead, opt for a mild detergent or a specialized cleaner made specifically for water-based polyurethane. Wipe dry: Once you have finished scrubbing the surface, be sure to wipe it dry with a clean, dry cloth. This will help prevent water spots and streaks from forming. Use a furniture polish: To give your water-based polyurethane a nice shine, consider using a furniture polish. Simply apply a small amount of polish to a soft cloth and wipe it over the surface in a circular motion. This will help restore the shine and protect the surface from dirt and grime. Avoid using wax: While wax may be effective at protecting and shining other types of surfaces, it is not recommended for use on water-based polyurethane. The wax can create a barrier that prevents the polyurethane from adhering properly, causing it to peel or flake over time. I hope this helps!
@@iBJanky Copy that. Could I purchase 3 foaming brushes - one for applying the conditioner, one for the stain, and the other for the polyurethane in substitution for the foaming pad?
@@user-jt8qn6bn9i It’s better to use a staining pad for the conditioner and the stain. It will save you a lot of time. You will definitely need a brush for the poly, since a staining pad will not work (the surface will not be smooth).
I bought the same exact butcher block from Home Depot, and had no idea what the best products, finish, and process was. Not only did you show me all that, but it was also on a slab very similar to mine. Now I know the exact stain and finish I want on the table knowing yours turned out amazing! thank you for this video, it really saved me a ton of work and possible regret with my choice is stain.
I’m glad you found it useful! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
As a wood worker, you’d did a pretty good job. Personally, I don’t like mixing oil and water based. Sometimes, depending on your temperature or humidity, the oil based products can take longer to fully dry. Just my preference though. Also, after the very last coat of finish I do on any project, I take a small piece of brown paper from a bag or whatever you have, and rub down the surface. It knocks off all the little tiny nibs and gives you a great feeling finish.
@@asoggyburger479 Hey thanks man. I appreciate the tips and the kind words. God bless! 🙏🏼
Sir, I'm working on my butcher block and imagine my surprise when your face popped up with this video. Greetings from the PNW from your former 6'9" coworker who left ten years ago and has embraced the DIY lifestyle living on some acres up here. For what it's worth, your voice comes across very nicely on my speakers and you have really nice tone and tempo. Hope all is well with you and those down south. -NM
@@coffeeNbacon Hey brother, it’s so nice to hear from you! I’m glad to hear you’re doing well. Things are a little crazy down here in L.A. because of the wildfires, so we’re busy dealing with that. Stay safe and God bless! 🙏🏼
Found your video over a year ago and decided to save it for when I upgraded my desk. Bought the butcher block this week so it’s time! Only difference is I unfortunately couldn’t find espresso stain so I decided on Jacobean. Thanks for your video man, it’s a big help!
@@thomaskeene5183 Great to hear that! Just take your time and have fun with it. Let me know if you have any questions, I’m glad to help.
Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJankythanks Man! I’m getting started on it today for the holiday. What was your method for staining and sealing the top and bottom without ruining it while flipping it?
@ Check out these things called ‘painters pyramids’
They’ll cut down your waiting time in half too!
@@thomaskeene5183 can I see your finished jacobean?
Turned out really nice my husband has 2 of these butcher blocks in his office. I'm gonna show him the stained looked tyfs 😊
@@marisollopez-caldwell8137 Sounds good! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Video is gold. Was like watching Bob Ross stain a piece of wood.
Haha, I’m glad you liked the video 😅
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I followed your instructions and products. Turned out perfect. Wow! Thanks so much.
I’m glad my video helped you!
I’d love to see how your project turned out. Would you be willing to share some pictures? You can email them to: ibjanky@yahoo.com
Thank you and God bless! 🙏🏼
20+ year painter here...its best to apply a sanding sealer before the poly goes on. I would stain, sanding sealer, sand, wipe down then apply my poly coats. The finish on the poly will end up better and require less coating.
Thanks for the suggestion! I’ll keep that in mind for next time 😎👍🏼
What do I sand with and which grit?
I think this is what I’m going through right now. My Havea is very porous in certain areas. After applying a couple coats of poly, it looks like it’s being soaked up by the pores and it’s coming out uneven when you look at it in the light. I’ll probably just keep applying layers on the B side until it comes out even, but Im definitely going to give sanding sealer a try when I do the A side.
Do you use wood conditioner before sanding sealer?
This is perfect! Just bought a house with an unfinished butcher block island in the kitchen. This is perfect, with all the steps for staining and finishing. Thank you so much!
You’re welcome! Good luck with your project. Just take your time and it’ll turn out great! Thanks for watching 😎👍🏼
at least you get to pick how you want it
I’m new to this and no one explains it better than this
I’m glad you found my video helpful. Thanks for watching! 🙏🏼
By far the best tutorial on TH-cam!
Thanks so much for the kind words! I really appreciate it! 😎👍🏼
I'm going to get 2 butchers block tops today for my new desk. This color is awesome. Thanks for this video!
Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I followed this to the t and am incredibly impressed. Thank you!!!
I’m glad my video was able to help you out! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Clear and complete video , I followed this to build my standing desk with Lowes counter top
I’m glad it helped you out. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
This is great video with detailed instructions. I pretty much followed all steps and result is amazing.
That’s great! I’m glad my video was able to help you out with your project.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Thank you kind sir.
Have this same top bought on clearance from my local Lowes.
Going to give her the old college try.
Good luck with your project! Let us know how it turns out.
Great job being thorough in details. Most of the other videos skip on a lot of the details.
@@troyc333 I’m glad you found my video useful. Thanks for watching! 🙏🏼
That looks sooo good! Thank you for the how-to!
I’m glad you liked my video. I hope it helps you one day. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Very good video. I have a hevea bb from Lowes. I would like to give it an oil finish, but will probably do the same poly final coat as you, for a couple reasons. 1) It's a lot fast than the oil finishes, some of which can take a month to cure, 2) I'm working in a community shop and don't want my project to be in the way for a long time, and 3) It's for a countertop in my van, which I may rent out in the future. Oil finishes show stains much more easily than a poly finish. I might go with a matte finish. The satin is OK, but still a bit glossy. Good for your intended use as a desk though.
@@DavesGuitarPlanet Good luck with your project! Let me know how it turns out, and don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any questions. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
BEAUTIFUL....thank you for this informative, clear and concise tutorial.
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Very Thorough. Loved the finished product.
I’m glad you liked the video! Thanks for the continued support! 😎👍🏼
Another great video. Props to you iBJanky I utilized this video in staining my butcher block with just a slightly different approach. I decided to go with a oil based stain and finish by Min-wax, the stain Provincial 211 and their Poly Warm Satin. There is a longer wait time when using the oil based product which is well worth the wait in my opinion. I did opt out of the pre-stain and used water instead which is a process called "grain raising or water popping". Since acacia wood is a hard wood this process works great and can save a couple dollars but its all about preference. Bjanky Im convinced the video does no justice on how the butcher block looks in person. Mine came out greeeeat thanks to you laying down a great foundation in this video.... THANKS BROHAM!
That’s great to hear, man! I’m glad my video helped. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
ps.
Do you have any pictures of your finished project?
@@iBJanky I can def send some your way. where should I send them?
@@rudolphmpierre3071 You can send them to:
ibjanky@gmail.com
Awesome video step by step, I’m about to tackle an 8 foot block. I appreciate this!
I appreciate the kind words. Good luck with your project, let us know how it turns out. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Me too.
Id like to see it.
Good luck
@@noroomforgloom video went up on my channel yesterday. Not quite as detailed as this one but this video was extremely helpful in my process. I’m very happy with results. Thanks again!!
@@GothamCenobites I just saw your video and your project turned out great! I'm glad you like the final results. Good job!
@@iBJanky thank you so much!
Just watched your video on setting up the desk and watched this one to learn how to stain it! I love your videos and REALLY appreciate the showing/listing of the materials needed! I love the idea of a butcher block/countertop versus the lower quality ikea desk tops for the standing desk. I think this is a great and informative video and will be doing this myself! You've earned my like and subscription!
Thanks for subscribing! I really appreciate that. Let me know if you have any questions about the process, I’ll be glad to help. 😎
@@iBJanky One question I have is when you were staining I saw that you had it raised on cardboard, would I need to wait for one side to dry prior to flipping the board over to stain the other side or did you do it all at once?
@@jdubbfps I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
You just repeat this process until you’ve applied however many coats of stain or poly you need.
I hope that helps. Anything else, let me know 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky Amazing! That's helpful. Thank you!
@@jdubbfps You’re welcome buddy!
Thanks for the video! I feel confident in doing a similar project now!
Thanks for watching, and good luck on your future project! 😎👍🏼
Did an 8ft counter today. Followed ur recipe to the T! Looks great! Thank u😂
That’s great to hear! Congrats on a job well done! 😎👍🏼
Beautiful job on this. Thanks for sharing!
I really appreciate the kind words. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Ok I have never done anything like this at all. We are putting in kitchen cabinets and butcher block countertops. I have a couple questions.
1. Do I need to use like a food grade poly?
2. Is 3 coats enough for a kitchen counter?
3. How do I know which way the wood grain is?
4. How do I know what side should be the top or bottom??
5. Will following these steps make it rather smooth?? I don’t want a bumpy counter.
We are trying to save as much as possible and your video was awesome. I have three sections to do so fingers crossed I do a good job. lol. Thank you so much for showing this!
1. According to FDA regulations, the typical clear wood finishes that dry to a hard film, including polyurethane, are considered food safe. Wait to use the surface until the finish is completely dried, and clean it before allowing food contact.
Polyurethane is a fine choice to use on a counter, as long as you don't use the counter as a cutting board. If you do cut directly on the polyurethane surface it will be damaged. Mineral oil would be a good finish for a wood counter that is to be used as a cutting board, but you have to renew the mineral oil fairly often.
2. Yes, 3 coats is enough for a kitchen counter. Just make sure the existing coat is dry before applying another coat.
3. You can use your fingernail against the wood to determine the direction of the grain, if your nail catches, you know that you are moving against the grain.
4. It doesn't matter which side you pick. Wood is wood on either side. You get to decide which side you would like to be the top or bottom.
5. The butcher blocks sold at Home Depot or Lowes are pretty smooth already, they aren't bumpy at all. A light sanding makes it even smoother.
I hope that helps. Thank you for watching, and good luck with your project! 😎👍
Super helpful, thanks for sharing!
I'm glad you found my video useful. Thanks for watching! 🙏
Very good instructional video really liked the entire process enjoy your new computer desk.
I’m glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Great video! Nice easy, simple instructions!
I’m glad you found it useful! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Brother this was such a useful video! Currently conditioned my block and waiting to stain. Thank you so much.
Awesome man! I hope it turns out great! 😎👍🏼
Awesome video! I just ordered my materials and I can pick up my countertop this weekend!
I’m glad you found my video useful. Good luck with your project! Let us know how it comes out. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Great video, very helpful
@@RealJoshBinder I’m glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Great results. You Americans are way too lucky to have all these products available. In Europe we have nothing other than cheap non brand ''garbage''. Practicing wood work is so stressful for us
I agree. I have been to many parts of the world, and things are much more accessible here in the USA. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Excellent instructional video! Great job!
I'm glad you found my video useful. Thanks for watching! 😎👍
@@iBJanky Is there a certain type of screw you would use to attach legs?
@@s.miller8250 What kind of legs were you thinking of putting? I used this and they came with the necessary screws to mount it onto the butcher block:
a.co/d/bL74KCu
phenomenal video. My suggestion, which is totally optional/personal preference, would be to use a router and round off the edges. More comfy for your forearms
@@Jim-p3s That’s definitely a nice finishing touch! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Awesome job ! You answered so many questions
I’m glad you found my video useful. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I gotta say…after the first stain coat I thought you ruined your butcher block. But the end result was absolutely beautiful! Very informative and detailed video. Thanks so much.
You’re welcome! I’m glad you liked my video. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Came out nicely
@@mr.nuna916 Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
EXCELLENT video sir!!
I’m glad you liked it! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Nice job😊
@@nicolerenee1144 Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
This is REALLY helpful. Thank you!
I’m glad you liked the video! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
You are a very good teacher 🫡
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Awesome! Thank you for this. I’m doing the same exact thing, except I used Havea wood, I kind of wish I bought a hardwood like acacia or birch because mine does look a little blotchy, even with conditioner..but you live and learn. My company paid for the block and I paid for the legs so whatever🤷🏼♂️
I hope you enjoy your new desk for many years to come! Thanks for watching! 🙌🏼
Lovely, I have a similar slab in order and this has helped me decide on a finish.
I’m glad my video helped! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Great job!!! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Hey, do you know what type of wood this is? Was it the Sparrow Peak Hevea? Love how it turned out!
i used the Sparrow Peak acacia wood butcher block from Lowe's. Here's the link:
www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Acacia-6-ft-x-30-in/5001790771
@@iBJankythanks!
Looks good
I’m gonna do one this week same way as this!
Thank you! Good luck with your project. Let us know how it goes. 😎👍🏼
I can’t find any food safe polyurethane, but I want to make my butcher block counter tops shiny like that, do you know if it’s food safe once fully cured?
According to FDA regulations, the typical clear wood finishes that dry to a hard film, including polyurethane, are considered food safe. Wait to use the surface until the finish is completely dried, and clean it before allowing food contact.
Polyurethane is a fine choice to use on a counter, as long as you don't use the counter as a cutting board. If you do cut directly on the polyurethane surface it will be damaged. Mineral oil would be a good finish for a wood counter that is to be used as a cutting board, but you have to renew the mineral oil fairly often.
I hope that helps. Thank you for watching! 😎👍
Just the video I was looking for 🙏.
Thanks for tuning in! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky I just ordered mine today. I got the Acacia Ebony Stained 60-in x 30-in x 1.5-in. $159.00. It’s almost $200 cheaper than Home Depot.
It’s already pre-stain but I need to seal it 🙏.
Lowe’s should give you commission 😂
@@IWario1 Haha, that’s awesome man! 😅
Let me know how your project turns out! 😎👍🏼
What did you put in between the table and the butcher block during the drying phase
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
That was a fantastic instructional video. I Reeeaallllyyy like the way you explained how to apply and when to apply all the items. It also helps a lot when you show what each
item is. Your videos are very clear and well put together. This project is going to look great once completed. Btw I love those green teas from Costco. Your neighborhood looks so nice and clean. Great job and keep up the fantastic work. Looking forward to the next one.
Thanks for being a supporter. I’m glad that you like my videos. Stay tuned for more! 👌🏽
Awesome video.
I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙏
Amazing results 🔥
I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Amazing video! Had the same idea with a butchers block standing desk and was going to leave the block unfinished until I came across your video. Hope you don’t mind, I copied the stain step by step😂 looks AMAZING!!
I’m glad you found my video useful! Do you mind sharing pictures of your finished project? I’d love to see your results.
thanks for sharing it
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
very informative! thanks for sharing and keep on vlogging! new friend here
Thanks for watching! I’m glad you liked the video! 😎👍🏼
This is very helpful! Thank you!
You’re welcome, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I wonder how this would look with birch wood.
Yours turned out great!😊
I’m sure it would look great as well! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
It looks great Mike!
Thank you, brother! 😎👍🏼
Am I able to stain both sides in one coat or do I need to do one side then flip then stain
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
You just repeat this process until you’ve applied however many coats of stain or poly you need.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
When do you turn over the butcher block do stain the other side? Do you flip after each coat? Or after you finish all 3 coats then flip?
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
very detailed and informative, thanks!
I hope it helps! Thank for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky quick question, say for the first coating of stain, do you stain top and bot surface at the same time and let it dry? or you stain top first let it dry, then do the same for bottom? i saw you put something in between the block and the table.
@@patrickwang8867 I stain the bottom side first, then I flip it over and use these things called painter's pyramids which goes in between the block and the table. Those handy little things allow you to stain both sides without having to wait for one side to dry first. It will cut your waiting time in half.
The reason I do the bottom side first is because the pyramids might cause little dimples on the surface, just because of the block's weight. But since they're on the bottom side, the dimples wont be visible.
@@iBJanky Thank you so much, I got them pyramids and made my desk :)
@@patrickwang8867 Great! I’m glad to hear it worked out! 😎👍🏼
When do you flip it to do the other side?
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky This helps so much! Thank you.
Butcher block arrived this morning. Can’t wait to start the process.
@@cathyfaulk8365 I’m glad to help. Good luck, and have fun with your project! Let us know how it turns out 😇
Excellent instructional video. I'm not sure if you're still around on here but I had a question about mounting the top to a desk frame (ikea idasen) What type and size screws and washers do I need? A lot of people say pan head screws are ideal but I'm not sure on specific ones to buy
@@inspire1ove Pan head wood screws are fine. Just make sure they fit through the mounting holes on the frame, and they go deep enough into the wood. I personally did not have to use washers. The screws were more than enough.
I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Beautiful. Thank you so much brother
You're welcome! I'm glad you liked my video. Thanks for watching! 😇
Nice work!
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Janky, how's the desk holding up today?
It’s been absolutely great! I use it daily. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Wow awesome job.
Thank you! 🙏🏼
when you applied the poly, did you do all the coats on the top and edges, then flip it and do the same amount of coats on the underside? or did you do a coat on the top and edges, wait for it to dry, then flip it and do a coat on the underside? if that makes any sense
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky i appreciate the detailed response. i ordered a block from lowe’s similar to yours, and if it’s not damaged like the last one i should be able to start working on it tonight. when you attached the legs into the top, did you drill pilot holes or did you just drill them directly in. thanks again!
@@sunfade It’s completely optional, but I drilled small pilot holes before installing the legs. I found that it made it easier screwing them in. Hope that helps, and good luck with your project! 😎👍🏼
Great video. I purchased the espresso color butcher block from Lowes and I want to maintain the color. Should I skip the staining part and proceed with the process as it is shown on the video?
If you’re already happy with the color, then no need to stain it. You can just apply the poly for added protection.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Amazing, I’m in the process of following this video tutorial. you mention the painters pyramid in another comment. Unfortunately I’m already 24 hours in and can’t find a near buy store that carries it and I don’t have enough time to get order one online. So all the time you have I’d just have to double it since it one side at a time? So, does one side with conditioners, let sit for 5 minutes, wipe excess away then let dry for 20 minutes then repeat? A total of 50 minutes? Thanks!
@@djeisoncanuto8453 Yes, that’s pretty much it. The painters pyramids cut your waiting time in half since you can immediately start working on the other wide without having to wait for the side you just worked on to dry.
I’m glad you found my video helpful. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky welp, here goes fingers crossed! Thank you for the quick response!
Hello, Congratulations. You did a Good Job. It is amazing.awesome. Excellent. 👍🙌
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
looks killer. great job!
Thank you for the kind words and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Awesome video! Huge help!
Glad you found my video useful! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
So for the third coat of Polly we don’t sand?
@@AngelGPlascencia Correct. Do not sand the final coat of poly. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Good job
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Just bought the same exact butcher block. Thanks so much for the video. Do you also stain and seal both sides as well? Im using this as a counter top for my laundry room and nobody will see the botton
So sorry, I literally just hears you say that you do both sides after I clicked submit comment lol. I should probably watch the entire video before commenting next time
@@str8kronic It's a personal choice whether or not you want to stain and seal both sides. I personally did both sides, but for your particular situation, I don't think it's necessary. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project! 👍
@@iBJanky thanks for the reply
@@str8kronic You’re welcome! Let me know how it turns out 😎👍🏼
Great video
I’m glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
GREAT video, thanks!
I hope that it proves useful to you! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
You HAVE to do all sides if you don’t the table will take moisture and warp. Very important to seal all sides.
Thank you so much for this video. Very well explained. The same acacia wood table top arrived for me, so I am going to attempt the same process! I am thinking to skip the staining as I don't want as dark wood. As I will be shooting videos on top, I am trying to minimize any gloss or sheen. Any recommendations?
You can certainly skip the staining part, and just do the coats of poly. Just make sure to lightly sand the surfaces before applying the poly.
They make poly in a matte finish, and it isn’t glossy or shiny at all. That’s probably what you’ll need.
Thanks for watching, and good luck with your project! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky thank you! Just got the ultra flat water based poly. Sanded down with 220 grits and applied first coat!
@@JosephKim Great! Let us know how it turns out 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky it turned out great! What would be the best way to share some photos?
@@JosephKim You can just post a link to a photo album of your finished project.
Thank you, greate.
You’re welcome! 😎👍🏼
When you apply to stain, do you do both sides at the same time and then wait 2 hours for it to dry? Or do you do one side, wait two hours, then the other?
Yes, I stained both sides, but I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain…
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
What color stain did you use. Looks great
The color I used was Espresso. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Very nice! What kind of butcher block did you use?
Thanks for watching! I got the Sparrow Peak Acacia 72”x30”
Here’s the link to the one I got:
www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Acacia-6-ft-x-30-in/5001790771
Awesome video!! Love how you explained everything..going to follow it exactly how you did it. Actually starting it today...thank you very much ..happy new year sir!
Enjoy the process and I’m sure it’ll turn out great! Thanks for watching and happy new year to you as well! 😎👍🏼
Awesome video! Gonna use a lot of what you did on my own butcher block. Question tho, how did you do the bottom side of the wood? Did you just flip the wood while it was still drying or do you go through the whole process on one side and then the next day do the other side?
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I hope that helps. Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
So glad you asked this because I was wondering the same thing too!
@@jasonvictor1798 I hope I was able to help! 😇
This is an awesome tutorial, had a few questions as I just started applying poly to my butcher's block atm:
1. Was your tabletop entirely smooth to touch in the end? I can still feel the 'grains' on my surface - similar to what you see at 11:57 (the small black lines scattered throughout the table). This was even after sanding it with 220 grit + wood conditioner + staining
2. Did the wood stain smell linger even after you turned it into a desk? If so how did you end up addressing it?
1. My tabletop was pretty smooth, but of course I can still feel the small ridges and natural grains of the wood. I did not have to get the wood smooth as glass.
2. The wood stain lingered for a few days, then it fades away eventually. You don’t have to do anything, it will go away on its own after some time.
Thanks for watching my video! 🙏🏼
@@iBJanky Good to know - Looking forward to your future videos!
@@jenova993 Thank you! 🙏🏼
If I'm making a table out of one of these should the underside be treated as well like the top side?
That’s completely up to you. Some people don’t care that the underside is unfinished since they won’t be seeing it anyway. For me personally, I prefer to have all sides finished. I hope that helps, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky ok my concern for this is I've heard it can start to crack on the untreated parts of butcher blocks. I'm not sure if that's true or false
@@finding_souvenirs Butcher block countertops are treated and sealed anyway.
Looks great.
Thanks! I’m very happy with the results too! 😎👍🏼
Do you stain both sides? If so, how long did you wait before flipping it over to do the other side?
Yes, I stained both sides, but I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain…
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed.
I hope that helps. Anything else, let me know 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky awesome thanks! It all makes sense. Just one question, so you applied one coat to the bottom, waited 2 hrs applied 2 coat and then did the flip to apply 2 coats on the top?
Or... you applied one coat on bottom, filled immediately, applied one coat on top, flipped again, applied 2nd coat on bottom, flipped again, applied 2nd coat on top?
@@m.p._YT I applied one coat to the bottom, flipped it immediately, then applied one coat to the top.
I then waited for about two hours to allow both sides to dry simultaneously.
After both sides had dried, I took the pyramids out and repeated the process again, starting with the bottom side first.
@@iBJanky thanks!
@@m.p._YT You’re welcome, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Awesome video. What did you use to prop the desk board up on your work table whilst you were prepping and staining?
I used these things called ‘painter’s pyramids’
They allowed me to work on both sides of the desk without waiting for one side to dry first.
Did you stain both sides or just the one side?
It’s personal preference, but I like to treat both sides. Some people choose to leave the bottom part raw/untreated since they figure they won’t be looking at the underside anyway. The choice is up to you.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Is the wood conditioner before the stain optional?
@@Holden-uf7 Yes, it’s completely optional. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
How did you paint other side of the butcher block? How long did you wait in between?
Yes, I stained both sides, but I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain…
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky Helps a lot.. thank you so much. I just ordered my butcher block from Lowe's, hopefully it comes in 1 piece and not damaged. planning to stain and poly next weekend. Getting Flex spot E7 plus as a stand. Your video gave me confidence proceed with the project.
@@naitikgandhi6029 Just take your time, and have fun with it. Let me know how it turns out! 😎👍🏼
I just did my floors in this exact process and looking to do my butcher block counters in my kitchen the same way. Do I need to worry about chemicals these products may give off??
Once the poly has completely cured, you’re all set. Nothing else to worry about.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
did you do both sides of the butcher block or just the top?
It’s personal preference, but I like to treat both sides. Some people choose to leave the bottom part raw/untreated since they figure they won’t be looking at the underside anyway. The choice is up to you.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Very informative video. I just have a few questions, if you can help me:
1.) Can we substitute the conditioner for some other oil? Is so, what kind do you recommend? I'm wanting to use my countertop for a desk, not for the kitchen.
2.) The countertop instructions stated to seal within 48 hours, but the shrink-wrap was already open a bit prior to me purchasing it, and that was almost a month ago...Luckily it's not humid in my home (because it's winter), so can I still seal it to its full potential without worrying about warping, bowing etc.)?
3.) Can I do all this in my garage rather than outside?
4.) Do we have to do all of these steps in one go, or can we apply the oil on one day, and stain it a month later if I don't have the time?
5). What does it mean, "Don't go against the grain"?
6.) Do I need to use the Polyurethane frequently to keep the board maintained, or use the conditioner or oil for that?
1. Just use the same Varathane pre-stain wood conditioner I used. You can get it at Home Depot for cheap. I used my butcher block for a desk as well.
2. Yes, you can just seal it normally. It will be fine.
3. I did all the work in my garage as well. Just make sure to open a door or a window for ventilation.
4. You can do it at your own pace. You don't have to finish everything at once.
5. Find the grain direction simply by running your gloved hand or a shop rag along the board surface. If you feel snags and splinters, then you're moving against the grain.
6. Use a mild detergent and water: Just like with oil-based polyurethane, you’ll want to start by mixing a small amount of mild detergent with warm water in a bucket. Dip a soft cloth or sponge into the solution and gently scrub the surface. Be sure to wring out the cloth or sponge before wiping the surface to avoid excess water.
Avoid abrasive cleaners: Abrasive cleaners can scratch the surface of the polyurethane and dull its shine. Instead, opt for a mild detergent or a specialized cleaner made specifically for water-based polyurethane.
Wipe dry: Once you have finished scrubbing the surface, be sure to wipe it dry with a clean, dry cloth. This will help prevent water spots and streaks from forming.
Use a furniture polish: To give your water-based polyurethane a nice shine, consider using a furniture polish. Simply apply a small amount of polish to a soft cloth and wipe it over the surface in a circular motion. This will help restore the shine and protect the surface from dirt and grime.
Avoid using wax: While wax may be effective at protecting and shining other types of surfaces, it is not recommended for use on water-based polyurethane. The wax can create a barrier that prevents the polyurethane from adhering properly, causing it to peel or flake over time.
I hope this helps!
@@iBJanky Copy that. Could I purchase 3 foaming brushes - one for applying the conditioner, one for the stain, and the other for the polyurethane in substitution for the foaming pad?
@@user-jt8qn6bn9i It’s better to use a staining pad for the conditioner and the stain. It will save you a lot of time.
You will definitely need a brush for the poly, since a staining pad will not work (the surface will not be smooth).
@@iBJanky Thanks for your response, I will message you if I have anymore questions. You've been very helpful :)
@@user-jt8qn6bn9i You’re welcome and good luck with your project! 😎👍🏼