I bought the same exact butcher block from Home Depot, and had no idea what the best products, finish, and process was. Not only did you show me all that, but it was also on a slab very similar to mine. Now I know the exact stain and finish I want on the table knowing yours turned out amazing! thank you for this video, it really saved me a ton of work and possible regret with my choice is stain.
As a wood worker, you’d did a pretty good job. Personally, I don’t like mixing oil and water based. Sometimes, depending on your temperature or humidity, the oil based products can take longer to fully dry. Just my preference though. Also, after the very last coat of finish I do on any project, I take a small piece of brown paper from a bag or whatever you have, and rub down the surface. It knocks off all the little tiny nibs and gives you a great feeling finish.
20+ year painter here...its best to apply a sanding sealer before the poly goes on. I would stain, sanding sealer, sand, wipe down then apply my poly coats. The finish on the poly will end up better and require less coating.
I think this is what I’m going through right now. My Havea is very porous in certain areas. After applying a couple coats of poly, it looks like it’s being soaked up by the pores and it’s coming out uneven when you look at it in the light. I’ll probably just keep applying layers on the B side until it comes out even, but Im definitely going to give sanding sealer a try when I do the A side.
phenomenal video. My suggestion, which is totally optional/personal preference, would be to use a router and round off the edges. More comfy for your forearms
This is perfect! Just bought a house with an unfinished butcher block island in the kitchen. This is perfect, with all the steps for staining and finishing. Thank you so much!
I’m glad my video helped you! I’d love to see how your project turned out. Would you be willing to share some pictures? You can email them to: ibjanky@yahoo.com Thank you and God bless! 🙏🏼
Ok I have never done anything like this at all. We are putting in kitchen cabinets and butcher block countertops. I have a couple questions. 1. Do I need to use like a food grade poly? 2. Is 3 coats enough for a kitchen counter? 3. How do I know which way the wood grain is? 4. How do I know what side should be the top or bottom?? 5. Will following these steps make it rather smooth?? I don’t want a bumpy counter. We are trying to save as much as possible and your video was awesome. I have three sections to do so fingers crossed I do a good job. lol. Thank you so much for showing this!
1. According to FDA regulations, the typical clear wood finishes that dry to a hard film, including polyurethane, are considered food safe. Wait to use the surface until the finish is completely dried, and clean it before allowing food contact. Polyurethane is a fine choice to use on a counter, as long as you don't use the counter as a cutting board. If you do cut directly on the polyurethane surface it will be damaged. Mineral oil would be a good finish for a wood counter that is to be used as a cutting board, but you have to renew the mineral oil fairly often. 2. Yes, 3 coats is enough for a kitchen counter. Just make sure the existing coat is dry before applying another coat. 3. You can use your fingernail against the wood to determine the direction of the grain, if your nail catches, you know that you are moving against the grain. 4. It doesn't matter which side you pick. Wood is wood on either side. You get to decide which side you would like to be the top or bottom. 5. The butcher blocks sold at Home Depot or Lowes are pretty smooth already, they aren't bumpy at all. A light sanding makes it even smoother. I hope that helps. Thank you for watching, and good luck with your project! 😎👍
Another great video. Props to you iBJanky I utilized this video in staining my butcher block with just a slightly different approach. I decided to go with a oil based stain and finish by Min-wax, the stain Provincial 211 and their Poly Warm Satin. There is a longer wait time when using the oil based product which is well worth the wait in my opinion. I did opt out of the pre-stain and used water instead which is a process called "grain raising or water popping". Since acacia wood is a hard wood this process works great and can save a couple dollars but its all about preference. Bjanky Im convinced the video does no justice on how the butcher block looks in person. Mine came out greeeeat thanks to you laying down a great foundation in this video.... THANKS BROHAM!
I gotta say…after the first stain coat I thought you ruined your butcher block. But the end result was absolutely beautiful! Very informative and detailed video. Thanks so much.
Great results. You Americans are way too lucky to have all these products available. In Europe we have nothing other than cheap non brand ''garbage''. Practicing wood work is so stressful for us
Awesome! Thank you for this. I’m doing the same exact thing, except I used Havea wood, I kind of wish I bought a hardwood like acacia or birch because mine does look a little blotchy, even with conditioner..but you live and learn. My company paid for the block and I paid for the legs so whatever🤷🏼♂️
@@noroomforgloom video went up on my channel yesterday. Not quite as detailed as this one but this video was extremely helpful in my process. I’m very happy with results. Thanks again!!
Just watched your video on setting up the desk and watched this one to learn how to stain it! I love your videos and REALLY appreciate the showing/listing of the materials needed! I love the idea of a butcher block/countertop versus the lower quality ikea desk tops for the standing desk. I think this is a great and informative video and will be doing this myself! You've earned my like and subscription!
@@iBJanky One question I have is when you were staining I saw that you had it raised on cardboard, would I need to wait for one side to dry prior to flipping the board over to stain the other side or did you do it all at once?
@@jdubbfps I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. You just repeat this process until you’ve applied however many coats of stain or poly you need. I hope that helps. Anything else, let me know 😎👍🏼
I can’t find any food safe polyurethane, but I want to make my butcher block counter tops shiny like that, do you know if it’s food safe once fully cured?
According to FDA regulations, the typical clear wood finishes that dry to a hard film, including polyurethane, are considered food safe. Wait to use the surface until the finish is completely dried, and clean it before allowing food contact. Polyurethane is a fine choice to use on a counter, as long as you don't use the counter as a cutting board. If you do cut directly on the polyurethane surface it will be damaged. Mineral oil would be a good finish for a wood counter that is to be used as a cutting board, but you have to renew the mineral oil fairly often. I hope that helps. Thank you for watching! 😎👍
That was a fantastic instructional video. I Reeeaallllyyy like the way you explained how to apply and when to apply all the items. It also helps a lot when you show what each item is. Your videos are very clear and well put together. This project is going to look great once completed. Btw I love those green teas from Costco. Your neighborhood looks so nice and clean. Great job and keep up the fantastic work. Looking forward to the next one.
Amazing video! Had the same idea with a butchers block standing desk and was going to leave the block unfinished until I came across your video. Hope you don’t mind, I copied the stain step by step😂 looks AMAZING!!
I used the exact same polyurethane for my 8ft office desk. I had to re sand it today. I had white spots everywhere from cup condensation. Use a coaster don’t make the same mistake I did.
Excellent instructional video. I'm not sure if you're still around on here but I had a question about mounting the top to a desk frame (ikea idasen) What type and size screws and washers do I need? A lot of people say pan head screws are ideal but I'm not sure on specific ones to buy
@@inspire1ove Pan head wood screws are fine. Just make sure they fit through the mounting holes on the frame, and they go deep enough into the wood. I personally did not have to use washers. The screws were more than enough. I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@s.miller8250 What kind of legs were you thinking of putting? I used this and they came with the necessary screws to mount it onto the butcher block: a.co/d/bL74KCu
Great video and your desk looks awesome, just an FYI but I think luck, brand, quality come into play regarding sanding/finishing of butcher block. I went over mine with 220 for a couple hours making it so smooth it would not catch the micro fiber cloth at all (like glass) but after staining I got odd swirls, dots, and stripes were the stain did not take. assuming its oil and/or adhesives from the manufacturing process. Will need to attack it with a belt sander hopefully getting that stuff off then sand perfectly smooth again and hope the oils/contaminates are not soaked in more than the sander can remove. The brand I bought is
@@iBJanky I just ordered mine today. I got the Acacia Ebony Stained 60-in x 30-in x 1.5-in. $159.00. It’s almost $200 cheaper than Home Depot. It’s already pre-stain but I need to seal it 🙏. Lowe’s should give you commission 😂
Great video. I purchased the espresso color butcher block from Lowes and I want to maintain the color. Should I skip the staining part and proceed with the process as it is shown on the video?
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
When you apply to stain, do you do both sides at the same time and then wait 2 hours for it to dry? Or do you do one side, wait two hours, then the other?
Yes, I stained both sides, but I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain… I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. You just repeat this process until you’ve applied however many coats of stain or poly you need. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Hey great video, was super helpful! Just got my piece finished to use for a desk following the same steps. Sorry if you've answered elsewhere but how long did you wait for the poly to cure before use? The can says 24 hours before heavy use but have heard others sugest a week or two depending on climate and ventilation. I have pretty good conditions for curing and only three coats, just dont want to place heavy desk items too early
@@SPOTUS_REAL I waited a day or two after I applied the final coat of poly before using the desk. It was already dry to the touch by that time. Some people will say it can take weeks for poly to fully cure, but in my opinion if you’ll just be using it as a desk, there’s no need to wait that long. As long as you’re not putting really heavy objects on the surface, you’ll be fine. I hope that helps, and good luck with your project. Thanks for watching! 😎
Awesome video! Gonna use a lot of what you did on my own butcher block. Question tho, how did you do the bottom side of the wood? Did you just flip the wood while it was still drying or do you go through the whole process on one side and then the next day do the other side?
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I hope that helps. Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
hi there! This is awesome - thank you so much for putting this together. Do you bother sealing / staining / treating the underside, or can you just leave it raw?
It’s personal preference, but I like to treat both sides. Some people choose to leave it raw/untreated since they figure they won’t be looking at the underside anyway. The choice is up to you. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Just bought the same exact butcher block. Thanks so much for the video. Do you also stain and seal both sides as well? Im using this as a counter top for my laundry room and nobody will see the botton
So sorry, I literally just hears you say that you do both sides after I clicked submit comment lol. I should probably watch the entire video before commenting next time
@@str8kronic It's a personal choice whether or not you want to stain and seal both sides. I personally did both sides, but for your particular situation, I don't think it's necessary. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project! 👍
I followed this video and the desk came out great! I had a question: if we seal this with the polyurethane finish, do we need to apply any oil/conditioner periodically to care for the desk? If so, how often? Otherwise, any needed care tips or just basic cleanliness? Thank you!
You can just use some basic furniture polish like Pledge to keep it looking good. You can use it as often as you’d like, it won’t really hurt the finish. That’s basically it, and it should last you for many, many years. I’d love to see you’re finished project. Would you be willing to send me some pictures? You can email them to: ibjanky@yahoo.com Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Great video! How long after finishing the butcher block did you attach the standing desk frame? I’m planning on doing this myself and am unsure how long I should let the block cure. Thank you!
@@SQKro Thanks for the kind words! I believe I waited at least 24-48 hours to allow the finally coat of poly dry before I mounted the desk frame. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain… I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed. I hope that helps. Anything else, let me know 😎👍🏼
Hi , it looks great and the details you put on was very useful . Thank you . I have a question - if I had to change the stain color in the middle of the process like after 2 coats of stain color. Can I change it with re-sanding and repeating the process . Will it work .
The color will not change very much unless you started out with a light colored stain and put a dark colored stain on top of it. You can go darker, but you can’t go lighter without starting over.
Very informative video. I just have a few questions, if you can help me: 1.) Can we substitute the conditioner for some other oil? Is so, what kind do you recommend? I'm wanting to use my countertop for a desk, not for the kitchen. 2.) The countertop instructions stated to seal within 48 hours, but the shrink-wrap was already open a bit prior to me purchasing it, and that was almost a month ago...Luckily it's not humid in my home (because it's winter), so can I still seal it to its full potential without worrying about warping, bowing etc.)? 3.) Can I do all this in my garage rather than outside? 4.) Do we have to do all of these steps in one go, or can we apply the oil on one day, and stain it a month later if I don't have the time? 5). What does it mean, "Don't go against the grain"? 6.) Do I need to use the Polyurethane frequently to keep the board maintained, or use the conditioner or oil for that?
1. Just use the same Varathane pre-stain wood conditioner I used. You can get it at Home Depot for cheap. I used my butcher block for a desk as well. 2. Yes, you can just seal it normally. It will be fine. 3. I did all the work in my garage as well. Just make sure to open a door or a window for ventilation. 4. You can do it at your own pace. You don't have to finish everything at once. 5. Find the grain direction simply by running your gloved hand or a shop rag along the board surface. If you feel snags and splinters, then you're moving against the grain. 6. Use a mild detergent and water: Just like with oil-based polyurethane, you’ll want to start by mixing a small amount of mild detergent with warm water in a bucket. Dip a soft cloth or sponge into the solution and gently scrub the surface. Be sure to wring out the cloth or sponge before wiping the surface to avoid excess water. Avoid abrasive cleaners: Abrasive cleaners can scratch the surface of the polyurethane and dull its shine. Instead, opt for a mild detergent or a specialized cleaner made specifically for water-based polyurethane. Wipe dry: Once you have finished scrubbing the surface, be sure to wipe it dry with a clean, dry cloth. This will help prevent water spots and streaks from forming. Use a furniture polish: To give your water-based polyurethane a nice shine, consider using a furniture polish. Simply apply a small amount of polish to a soft cloth and wipe it over the surface in a circular motion. This will help restore the shine and protect the surface from dirt and grime. Avoid using wax: While wax may be effective at protecting and shining other types of surfaces, it is not recommended for use on water-based polyurethane. The wax can create a barrier that prevents the polyurethane from adhering properly, causing it to peel or flake over time. I hope this helps!
@@iBJanky Copy that. Could I purchase 3 foaming brushes - one for applying the conditioner, one for the stain, and the other for the polyurethane in substitution for the foaming pad?
@@user-jt8qn6bn9i It’s better to use a staining pad for the conditioner and the stain. It will save you a lot of time. You will definitely need a brush for the poly, since a staining pad will not work (the surface will not be smooth).
Great video, I plan to follow exactly what you did. I saw from other comments that you flipped the block to do sides. Did you wait for one side to completely dry before flipping it? If not, wouldn't your hands mess up the stain you just applied when flipping the block over? I know you put the block on those little pyramids, but I'm thinking more of your hands smearing/smudging the stain that was just applied.
I don’t stain the edges until I’ve flipped over the block. That way I have something to grab onto as I flip it over. Once I flip it over, I stain the other side and the edges. I hope this helps! 😎👍🏼
when you applied the poly, did you do all the coats on the top and edges, then flip it and do the same amount of coats on the underside? or did you do a coat on the top and edges, wait for it to dry, then flip it and do a coat on the underside? if that makes any sense
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky i appreciate the detailed response. i ordered a block from lowe’s similar to yours, and if it’s not damaged like the last one i should be able to start working on it tonight. when you attached the legs into the top, did you drill pilot holes or did you just drill them directly in. thanks again!
@@sunfade It’s completely optional, but I drilled small pilot holes before installing the legs. I found that it made it easier screwing them in. Hope that helps, and good luck with your project! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky quick question, say for the first coating of stain, do you stain top and bot surface at the same time and let it dry? or you stain top first let it dry, then do the same for bottom? i saw you put something in between the block and the table.
@@patrickwang8867 I stain the bottom side first, then I flip it over and use these things called painter's pyramids which goes in between the block and the table. Those handy little things allow you to stain both sides without having to wait for one side to dry first. It will cut your waiting time in half. The reason I do the bottom side first is because the pyramids might cause little dimples on the surface, just because of the block's weight. But since they're on the bottom side, the dimples wont be visible.
Hey man, appreciate the video. I’m currently finishing up staining my butcher block. Will be doing the coats of poly in about 24 hours. Did you drill into the poly at all? Such as mounting monitors or any other equipment?
@@MikkahLive I had to drill on the underside of the butcher block in order to attach the table legs and other parts. You can check out my desk build in my other video: th-cam.com/video/HuPFpRzrP0Y/w-d-xo.htmlsi=h_0MYWc2dXeiNSoQ Hope that helps! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky sweet will check it out. Do you talk about drilling at all? I usually don’t have a problem drilling into studs for tv mounts, or drilling into my old desk but that was different from my understanding. I’ve seen online that drilling into poly can lead to warping or cracking of the poly?
Awesome video!! Love how you explained everything..going to follow it exactly how you did it. Actually starting it today...thank you very much ..happy new year sir!
Thanks for watching! I got the Sparrow Peak Acacia 72”x30” Here’s the link to the one I got: www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Acacia-6-ft-x-30-in/5001790771
The final product looks beautiful and the overall video was great. I think you made the right move to stain it 3 times but... Even though I love dark woods like walnut when I see the acacia butcher block with a dark stain I can't help but think that its lost some of its beauty. From my point of view it feels too rustic and old. The bright white blocks of wood found within the butcher block stain very weirdly. Having weird black striations. The table is incredibly pretty and it looks fantastic in that afternoon shot you show during the polyurethane step but when seen in natural sunlight and up close it makes me indecisive. You might be wonder why the fuck I'm commenting this randomly on an old video but I coincidentally bought the same butcher block from Lowes and was wondering if a dark finish would look pleasant
Everybody have their own tastes. I too couldn't decide light or dark stain and finally went with none. I bought a sapele wood from Hardware Reflections through HD and decided on a clear topcoat and the natural color of the wood.
It’s all personal preference at the end of the day. I’m sure your project will turn out nice whether or not you decide to stain it. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky I was overthinking and being anal about details. Your project and and sparrowpeak's website made me decide to use the same stain colour. I chose to get a water based stain instead though and even though I've only stained the bottom it came out great. I still have to stain the top and sides, and I have to apply a poly coat afterwards but so far it's looking dope
Amazing result and great tutorial, definitely deserves more views, easily the best video I've found on this. I may just try to copy your table exactly it turned out so nice looking. Main concerns for me are whether I can keep my apartment ventilated enough to be safe and prevent other tenants from smelling the oil-based stain, and how to stain both sides without marks. Painter's Pyramids are enough to not leave marks?
Thank you for the kind words! To answer some of your concerns, as long as you can keep the windows open, I don’t think you would have any ventilation issues. I didn’t particularly find the oil-based stain to have any strong odors. The painters pyramids might leave some tiny dot like marks on the surface, just because how heavy the butcher block is. I thought about that in advance though, and whenever I would start applying a coat of stain or poly, I would apply it to the underside of the butcher block first, with the topside laid flat on the work table without any pyramids. Then I would flip the butcher block, put the underside onto the pyramids, and finish applying the coat to the topside. Painters pyramids are completely optional. You can do this project without them, it would just take longer if you wanted both sides to be finished. Some people only stain and finish the topside and the side edges, since most people don’t really care what the underside of a desk looks like. If you only stain and finish the topside and the edges, then you won’t be needing to flip the butcher block at all.
@@iBJanky That's a good strategy, some tiny dots on the finished underside of the table are pretty acceptable. Might just get the pyramids since it'd be good to finish this in a weekend. And good to hear about the fumes, perhaps I'll give this a go this weekend or next!
This is an awesome tutorial, had a few questions as I just started applying poly to my butcher's block atm: 1. Was your tabletop entirely smooth to touch in the end? I can still feel the 'grains' on my surface - similar to what you see at 11:57 (the small black lines scattered throughout the table). This was even after sanding it with 220 grit + wood conditioner + staining 2. Did the wood stain smell linger even after you turned it into a desk? If so how did you end up addressing it?
1. My tabletop was pretty smooth, but of course I can still feel the small ridges and natural grains of the wood. I did not have to get the wood smooth as glass. 2. The wood stain lingered for a few days, then it fades away eventually. You don’t have to do anything, it will go away on its own after some time. Thanks for watching my video! 🙏🏼
Awesome video! Noob here I just bought a Espresso sparrow peak from lowes as well but it's says it's stained already from the description. Is it ok to just apply a finisher or should I sand it first?
No need to sand the final coat of poly. Once you’ve applied that, just wait 24 hours for it to dry, and you can start using it. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Looks awesome! I am getting ready to finish mine and install it. Can you let us know which species you went with? Looks like it might be the rubberwood one but I am not sure. Thanks!!
Great video! I am have had the same butcher block and standing legs that you got in my wish list, glad I found your video with the exact same material! Pulling the trigger soon, when you applied the coat to the bottom portion, how did you do so without damaging the coat you just applied on the top? What did you rest it on when you flipped it over? How long did you wait until you flipped over the butcher block?
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky So basically you flipped the block right away after finishing the bottom side? You flipped it while it was still wet. Wouldn't you leave some marks on the wet surface while flipping it?
@@artexpol No marks were left because I used these things called “painters pyramids”. They are fairly cheap and readily available at Home Depot or Amazon. They basically suspend the block in the air, so you don’t have to wait for it to dry before working on the other side. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I just did my floors in this exact process and looking to do my butcher block counters in my kitchen the same way. Do I need to worry about chemicals these products may give off??
I am actually ready to start my project and went looking for a video just like this; it's really well done! For each step shown, did you then flip it over and do the same process? I presume that you did, but am interested to know if you protected the finished surface while you were working on the other side. Also, how did you control excess stain or poly from pooling on the underside around the edges? sometimes you don't see that kind of problem until you flip it and its all dried.
Yes, I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I hope that helps 🙂
From what I’ve read online the poly should take about a full month before it’s fully cured. A lot of people say using it lightly before then is fine, but to not leave anything heavy on it for extended periods or else the finish might be damaged. Was this your experience? Did you wait a full month before using it as a desk?
I bought the same exact butcher block from Home Depot, and had no idea what the best products, finish, and process was. Not only did you show me all that, but it was also on a slab very similar to mine. Now I know the exact stain and finish I want on the table knowing yours turned out amazing! thank you for this video, it really saved me a ton of work and possible regret with my choice is stain.
I’m glad you found it useful! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
As a wood worker, you’d did a pretty good job. Personally, I don’t like mixing oil and water based. Sometimes, depending on your temperature or humidity, the oil based products can take longer to fully dry. Just my preference though. Also, after the very last coat of finish I do on any project, I take a small piece of brown paper from a bag or whatever you have, and rub down the surface. It knocks off all the little tiny nibs and gives you a great feeling finish.
@@asoggyburger479 Hey thanks man. I appreciate the tips and the kind words. God bless! 🙏🏼
20+ year painter here...its best to apply a sanding sealer before the poly goes on. I would stain, sanding sealer, sand, wipe down then apply my poly coats. The finish on the poly will end up better and require less coating.
Thanks for the suggestion! I’ll keep that in mind for next time 😎👍🏼
What do I sand with and which grit?
I think this is what I’m going through right now. My Havea is very porous in certain areas. After applying a couple coats of poly, it looks like it’s being soaked up by the pores and it’s coming out uneven when you look at it in the light. I’ll probably just keep applying layers on the B side until it comes out even, but Im definitely going to give sanding sealer a try when I do the A side.
Do you use wood conditioner before sanding sealer?
phenomenal video. My suggestion, which is totally optional/personal preference, would be to use a router and round off the edges. More comfy for your forearms
@@Jim-p3s That’s definitely a nice finishing touch! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
This is perfect! Just bought a house with an unfinished butcher block island in the kitchen. This is perfect, with all the steps for staining and finishing. Thank you so much!
You’re welcome! Good luck with your project. Just take your time and it’ll turn out great! Thanks for watching 😎👍🏼
at least you get to pick how you want it
Video is gold. Was like watching Bob Ross stain a piece of wood.
Haha, I’m glad you liked the video 😅
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I'm going to get 2 butchers block tops today for my new desk. This color is awesome. Thanks for this video!
Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
By far the best tutorial on TH-cam!
Thanks so much for the kind words! I really appreciate it! 😎👍🏼
I’m new to this and no one explains it better than this
I’m glad you found my video helpful. Thanks for watching! 🙏🏼
Great job being thorough in details. Most of the other videos skip on a lot of the details.
@@troyc333 I’m glad you found my video useful. Thanks for watching! 🙏🏼
Clear and complete video , I followed this to build my standing desk with Lowes counter top
I’m glad it helped you out. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I followed your instructions and products. Turned out perfect. Wow! Thanks so much.
I’m glad my video helped you!
I’d love to see how your project turned out. Would you be willing to share some pictures? You can email them to: ibjanky@yahoo.com
Thank you and God bless! 🙏🏼
Ok I have never done anything like this at all. We are putting in kitchen cabinets and butcher block countertops. I have a couple questions.
1. Do I need to use like a food grade poly?
2. Is 3 coats enough for a kitchen counter?
3. How do I know which way the wood grain is?
4. How do I know what side should be the top or bottom??
5. Will following these steps make it rather smooth?? I don’t want a bumpy counter.
We are trying to save as much as possible and your video was awesome. I have three sections to do so fingers crossed I do a good job. lol. Thank you so much for showing this!
1. According to FDA regulations, the typical clear wood finishes that dry to a hard film, including polyurethane, are considered food safe. Wait to use the surface until the finish is completely dried, and clean it before allowing food contact.
Polyurethane is a fine choice to use on a counter, as long as you don't use the counter as a cutting board. If you do cut directly on the polyurethane surface it will be damaged. Mineral oil would be a good finish for a wood counter that is to be used as a cutting board, but you have to renew the mineral oil fairly often.
2. Yes, 3 coats is enough for a kitchen counter. Just make sure the existing coat is dry before applying another coat.
3. You can use your fingernail against the wood to determine the direction of the grain, if your nail catches, you know that you are moving against the grain.
4. It doesn't matter which side you pick. Wood is wood on either side. You get to decide which side you would like to be the top or bottom.
5. The butcher blocks sold at Home Depot or Lowes are pretty smooth already, they aren't bumpy at all. A light sanding makes it even smoother.
I hope that helps. Thank you for watching, and good luck with your project! 😎👍
I followed this to the t and am incredibly impressed. Thank you!!!
I’m glad my video was able to help you out! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Another great video. Props to you iBJanky I utilized this video in staining my butcher block with just a slightly different approach. I decided to go with a oil based stain and finish by Min-wax, the stain Provincial 211 and their Poly Warm Satin. There is a longer wait time when using the oil based product which is well worth the wait in my opinion. I did opt out of the pre-stain and used water instead which is a process called "grain raising or water popping". Since acacia wood is a hard wood this process works great and can save a couple dollars but its all about preference. Bjanky Im convinced the video does no justice on how the butcher block looks in person. Mine came out greeeeat thanks to you laying down a great foundation in this video.... THANKS BROHAM!
That’s great to hear, man! I’m glad my video helped. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
ps.
Do you have any pictures of your finished project?
@@iBJanky I can def send some your way. where should I send them?
@@rudolphmpierre3071 You can send them to:
ibjanky@gmail.com
I gotta say…after the first stain coat I thought you ruined your butcher block. But the end result was absolutely beautiful! Very informative and detailed video. Thanks so much.
You’re welcome! I’m glad you liked my video. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Great results. You Americans are way too lucky to have all these products available. In Europe we have nothing other than cheap non brand ''garbage''. Practicing wood work is so stressful for us
I agree. I have been to many parts of the world, and things are much more accessible here in the USA. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Thank you kind sir.
Have this same top bought on clearance from my local Lowes.
Going to give her the old college try.
Good luck with your project! Let us know how it turns out.
Awesome! Thank you for this. I’m doing the same exact thing, except I used Havea wood, I kind of wish I bought a hardwood like acacia or birch because mine does look a little blotchy, even with conditioner..but you live and learn. My company paid for the block and I paid for the legs so whatever🤷🏼♂️
I hope you enjoy your new desk for many years to come! Thanks for watching! 🙌🏼
BEAUTIFUL....thank you for this informative, clear and concise tutorial.
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
This is great video with detailed instructions. I pretty much followed all steps and result is amazing.
That’s great! I’m glad my video was able to help you out with your project.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Thanks for the video! I feel confident in doing a similar project now!
Thanks for watching, and good luck on your future project! 😎👍🏼
Awesome video step by step, I’m about to tackle an 8 foot block. I appreciate this!
I appreciate the kind words. Good luck with your project, let us know how it turns out. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Me too.
Id like to see it.
Good luck
@@noroomforgloom video went up on my channel yesterday. Not quite as detailed as this one but this video was extremely helpful in my process. I’m very happy with results. Thanks again!!
@@GothamCenobites I just saw your video and your project turned out great! I'm glad you like the final results. Good job!
@@iBJanky thank you so much!
Very Thorough. Loved the finished product.
I’m glad you liked the video! Thanks for the continued support! 😎👍🏼
Brother this was such a useful video! Currently conditioned my block and waiting to stain. Thank you so much.
Awesome man! I hope it turns out great! 😎👍🏼
Did an 8ft counter today. Followed ur recipe to the T! Looks great! Thank u😂
That’s great to hear! Congrats on a job well done! 😎👍🏼
That looks sooo good! Thank you for the how-to!
I’m glad you liked my video. I hope it helps you one day. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Just watched your video on setting up the desk and watched this one to learn how to stain it! I love your videos and REALLY appreciate the showing/listing of the materials needed! I love the idea of a butcher block/countertop versus the lower quality ikea desk tops for the standing desk. I think this is a great and informative video and will be doing this myself! You've earned my like and subscription!
Thanks for subscribing! I really appreciate that. Let me know if you have any questions about the process, I’ll be glad to help. 😎
@@iBJanky One question I have is when you were staining I saw that you had it raised on cardboard, would I need to wait for one side to dry prior to flipping the board over to stain the other side or did you do it all at once?
@@jdubbfps I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
You just repeat this process until you’ve applied however many coats of stain or poly you need.
I hope that helps. Anything else, let me know 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky Amazing! That's helpful. Thank you!
@@jdubbfps You’re welcome buddy!
I can’t find any food safe polyurethane, but I want to make my butcher block counter tops shiny like that, do you know if it’s food safe once fully cured?
According to FDA regulations, the typical clear wood finishes that dry to a hard film, including polyurethane, are considered food safe. Wait to use the surface until the finish is completely dried, and clean it before allowing food contact.
Polyurethane is a fine choice to use on a counter, as long as you don't use the counter as a cutting board. If you do cut directly on the polyurethane surface it will be damaged. Mineral oil would be a good finish for a wood counter that is to be used as a cutting board, but you have to renew the mineral oil fairly often.
I hope that helps. Thank you for watching! 😎👍
Beautiful job on this. Thanks for sharing!
I really appreciate the kind words. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Very good instructional video really liked the entire process enjoy your new computer desk.
I’m glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Awesome video! I just ordered my materials and I can pick up my countertop this weekend!
I’m glad you found my video useful. Good luck with your project! Let us know how it comes out. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
That was a fantastic instructional video. I Reeeaallllyyy like the way you explained how to apply and when to apply all the items. It also helps a lot when you show what each
item is. Your videos are very clear and well put together. This project is going to look great once completed. Btw I love those green teas from Costco. Your neighborhood looks so nice and clean. Great job and keep up the fantastic work. Looking forward to the next one.
Thanks for being a supporter. I’m glad that you like my videos. Stay tuned for more! 👌🏽
Amazing video! Had the same idea with a butchers block standing desk and was going to leave the block unfinished until I came across your video. Hope you don’t mind, I copied the stain step by step😂 looks AMAZING!!
I’m glad you found my video useful! Do you mind sharing pictures of your finished project? I’d love to see your results.
I used the exact same polyurethane for my 8ft office desk. I had to re sand it today. I had white spots everywhere from cup condensation. Use a coaster don’t make the same mistake I did.
There’s actually a way to remove those white marks, using a warm iron and a damp rag. There should be some TH-cam videos on it.
I wonder how this would look with birch wood.
Yours turned out great!😊
I’m sure it would look great as well! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Excellent instructional video. I'm not sure if you're still around on here but I had a question about mounting the top to a desk frame (ikea idasen) What type and size screws and washers do I need? A lot of people say pan head screws are ideal but I'm not sure on specific ones to buy
@@inspire1ove Pan head wood screws are fine. Just make sure they fit through the mounting holes on the frame, and they go deep enough into the wood. I personally did not have to use washers. The screws were more than enough.
I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Super helpful, thanks for sharing!
I'm glad you found my video useful. Thanks for watching! 🙏
Awesome job ! You answered so many questions
I’m glad you found my video useful. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Great video! Nice easy, simple instructions!
I’m glad you found it useful! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
You HAVE to do all sides if you don’t the table will take moisture and warp. Very important to seal all sides.
Excellent instructional video! Great job!
I'm glad you found my video useful. Thanks for watching! 😎👍
@@iBJanky Is there a certain type of screw you would use to attach legs?
@@s.miller8250 What kind of legs were you thinking of putting? I used this and they came with the necessary screws to mount it onto the butcher block:
a.co/d/bL74KCu
Hey, do you know what type of wood this is? Was it the Sparrow Peak Hevea? Love how it turned out!
i used the Sparrow Peak acacia wood butcher block from Lowe's. Here's the link:
www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Acacia-6-ft-x-30-in/5001790771
@@iBJankythanks!
Awesome video. What did you use to prop the desk board up on your work table whilst you were prepping and staining?
I used these things called ‘painter’s pyramids’
They allowed me to work on both sides of the desk without waiting for one side to dry first.
Great video and your desk looks awesome, just an FYI but I think luck, brand, quality come into play regarding sanding/finishing of butcher block. I went over mine with 220 for a couple hours making it so smooth it would not catch the micro fiber cloth at all (like glass) but after staining I got odd swirls, dots, and stripes were the stain did not take. assuming its oil and/or adhesives from the manufacturing process. Will need to attack it with a belt sander hopefully getting that stuff off then sand perfectly smooth again and hope the oils/contaminates are not soaked in more than the sander can remove. The brand I bought is
Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Amazing results 🔥
I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Came out nicely
@@mr.nuna916 Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Great video, very helpful
@@RealJoshBinder I’m glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Just the video I was looking for 🙏.
Thanks for tuning in! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky I just ordered mine today. I got the Acacia Ebony Stained 60-in x 30-in x 1.5-in. $159.00. It’s almost $200 cheaper than Home Depot.
It’s already pre-stain but I need to seal it 🙏.
Lowe’s should give you commission 😂
@@IWario1 Haha, that’s awesome man! 😅
Let me know how your project turns out! 😎👍🏼
This is REALLY helpful. Thank you!
I’m glad you liked the video! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Lovely, I have a similar slab in order and this has helped me decide on a finish.
I’m glad my video helped! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
So for the third coat of Polly we don’t sand?
@@AngelGPlascencia Correct. Do not sand the final coat of poly. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
EXCELLENT video sir!!
I’m glad you liked it! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
very informative! thanks for sharing and keep on vlogging! new friend here
Thanks for watching! I’m glad you liked the video! 😎👍🏼
Looks good
I’m gonna do one this week same way as this!
Thank you! Good luck with your project. Let us know how it goes. 😎👍🏼
Great video. I purchased the espresso color butcher block from Lowes and I want to maintain the color. Should I skip the staining part and proceed with the process as it is shown on the video?
If you’re already happy with the color, then no need to stain it. You can just apply the poly for added protection.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
When do you turn over the butcher block do stain the other side? Do you flip after each coat? Or after you finish all 3 coats then flip?
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
When you apply to stain, do you do both sides at the same time and then wait 2 hours for it to dry? Or do you do one side, wait two hours, then the other?
Yes, I stained both sides, but I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain…
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Am I able to stain both sides in one coat or do I need to do one side then flip then stain
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
You just repeat this process until you’ve applied however many coats of stain or poly you need.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
What did you put in between the table and the butcher block during the drying phase
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
You are a very good teacher 🫡
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Awesome video.
I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙏
Hey great video, was super helpful! Just got my piece finished to use for a desk following the same steps. Sorry if you've answered elsewhere but how long did you wait for the poly to cure before use? The can says 24 hours before heavy use but have heard others sugest a week or two depending on climate and ventilation. I have pretty good conditions for curing and only three coats, just dont want to place heavy desk items too early
@@SPOTUS_REAL I waited a day or two after I applied the final coat of poly before using the desk. It was already dry to the touch by that time. Some people will say it can take weeks for poly to fully cure, but in my opinion if you’ll just be using it as a desk, there’s no need to wait that long. As long as you’re not putting really heavy objects on the surface, you’ll be fine.
I hope that helps, and good luck with your project. Thanks for watching! 😎
Great job!!! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Awesome video! Gonna use a lot of what you did on my own butcher block. Question tho, how did you do the bottom side of the wood? Did you just flip the wood while it was still drying or do you go through the whole process on one side and then the next day do the other side?
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I hope that helps. Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
So glad you asked this because I was wondering the same thing too!
@@jasonvictor1798 I hope I was able to help! 😇
This is very helpful! Thank you!
You’re welcome, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
It looks great Mike!
Thank you, brother! 😎👍🏼
Thanks for the help so far! One last question before I finish up my desk! Do you sand the final coat of poly?
No need to sand the final coat of poly. That’s going to be your finished surface. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
hi there! This is awesome - thank you so much for putting this together. Do you bother sealing / staining / treating the underside, or can you just leave it raw?
It’s personal preference, but I like to treat both sides. Some people choose to leave it raw/untreated since they figure they won’t be looking at the underside anyway. The choice is up to you.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Wow awesome job.
Thank you! 🙏🏼
looks killer. great job!
Thank you for the kind words and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Nice work!
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Beautiful. Thank you so much brother
You're welcome! I'm glad you liked my video. Thanks for watching! 😇
Awesome video! Huge help!
Glad you found my video useful! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Just bought the same exact butcher block. Thanks so much for the video. Do you also stain and seal both sides as well? Im using this as a counter top for my laundry room and nobody will see the botton
So sorry, I literally just hears you say that you do both sides after I clicked submit comment lol. I should probably watch the entire video before commenting next time
@@str8kronic It's a personal choice whether or not you want to stain and seal both sides. I personally did both sides, but for your particular situation, I don't think it's necessary. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project! 👍
@@iBJanky thanks for the reply
@@str8kronic You’re welcome! Let me know how it turns out 😎👍🏼
I followed this video and the desk came out great! I had a question: if we seal this with the polyurethane finish, do we need to apply any oil/conditioner periodically to care for the desk? If so, how often? Otherwise, any needed care tips or just basic cleanliness? Thank you!
You can just use some basic furniture polish like Pledge to keep it looking good. You can use it as often as you’d like, it won’t really hurt the finish. That’s basically it, and it should last you for many, many years.
I’d love to see you’re finished project. Would you be willing to send me some pictures? You can email them to: ibjanky@yahoo.com
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Hello, Congratulations. You did a Good Job. It is amazing.awesome. Excellent. 👍🙌
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Great video! How long after finishing the butcher block did you attach the standing desk frame? I’m planning on doing this myself and am unsure how long I should let the block cure. Thank you!
@@SQKro Thanks for the kind words! I believe I waited at least 24-48 hours to allow the finally coat of poly dry before I mounted the desk frame.
Hope that helps! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Love the video! Thank you!
Question: did you wait 2 hours and fillip and do the other side and wait another 2 hours? Thanks!
I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain…
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed.
I hope that helps. Anything else, let me know 😎👍🏼
Hi , it looks great and the details you put on was very useful . Thank you .
I have a question - if I had to change the stain color in the middle of the process like after 2 coats of stain color. Can I change it with re-sanding and repeating the process . Will it work .
The color will not change very much unless you started out with a light colored stain and put a dark colored stain on top of it. You can go darker, but you can’t go lighter without starting over.
GREAT video, thanks!
I hope that it proves useful to you! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Very informative video. I just have a few questions, if you can help me:
1.) Can we substitute the conditioner for some other oil? Is so, what kind do you recommend? I'm wanting to use my countertop for a desk, not for the kitchen.
2.) The countertop instructions stated to seal within 48 hours, but the shrink-wrap was already open a bit prior to me purchasing it, and that was almost a month ago...Luckily it's not humid in my home (because it's winter), so can I still seal it to its full potential without worrying about warping, bowing etc.)?
3.) Can I do all this in my garage rather than outside?
4.) Do we have to do all of these steps in one go, or can we apply the oil on one day, and stain it a month later if I don't have the time?
5). What does it mean, "Don't go against the grain"?
6.) Do I need to use the Polyurethane frequently to keep the board maintained, or use the conditioner or oil for that?
1. Just use the same Varathane pre-stain wood conditioner I used. You can get it at Home Depot for cheap. I used my butcher block for a desk as well.
2. Yes, you can just seal it normally. It will be fine.
3. I did all the work in my garage as well. Just make sure to open a door or a window for ventilation.
4. You can do it at your own pace. You don't have to finish everything at once.
5. Find the grain direction simply by running your gloved hand or a shop rag along the board surface. If you feel snags and splinters, then you're moving against the grain.
6. Use a mild detergent and water: Just like with oil-based polyurethane, you’ll want to start by mixing a small amount of mild detergent with warm water in a bucket. Dip a soft cloth or sponge into the solution and gently scrub the surface. Be sure to wring out the cloth or sponge before wiping the surface to avoid excess water.
Avoid abrasive cleaners: Abrasive cleaners can scratch the surface of the polyurethane and dull its shine. Instead, opt for a mild detergent or a specialized cleaner made specifically for water-based polyurethane.
Wipe dry: Once you have finished scrubbing the surface, be sure to wipe it dry with a clean, dry cloth. This will help prevent water spots and streaks from forming.
Use a furniture polish: To give your water-based polyurethane a nice shine, consider using a furniture polish. Simply apply a small amount of polish to a soft cloth and wipe it over the surface in a circular motion. This will help restore the shine and protect the surface from dirt and grime.
Avoid using wax: While wax may be effective at protecting and shining other types of surfaces, it is not recommended for use on water-based polyurethane. The wax can create a barrier that prevents the polyurethane from adhering properly, causing it to peel or flake over time.
I hope this helps!
@@iBJanky Copy that. Could I purchase 3 foaming brushes - one for applying the conditioner, one for the stain, and the other for the polyurethane in substitution for the foaming pad?
@@user-jt8qn6bn9i It’s better to use a staining pad for the conditioner and the stain. It will save you a lot of time.
You will definitely need a brush for the poly, since a staining pad will not work (the surface will not be smooth).
@@iBJanky Thanks for your response, I will message you if I have anymore questions. You've been very helpful :)
@@user-jt8qn6bn9i You’re welcome and good luck with your project! 😎👍🏼
Great video, I plan to follow exactly what you did. I saw from other comments that you flipped the block to do sides. Did you wait for one side to completely dry before flipping it? If not, wouldn't your hands mess up the stain you just applied when flipping the block over? I know you put the block on those little pyramids, but I'm thinking more of your hands smearing/smudging the stain that was just applied.
I don’t stain the edges until I’ve flipped over the block. That way I have something to grab onto as I flip it over. Once I flip it over, I stain the other side and the edges. I hope this helps! 😎👍🏼
when you applied the poly, did you do all the coats on the top and edges, then flip it and do the same amount of coats on the underside? or did you do a coat on the top and edges, wait for it to dry, then flip it and do a coat on the underside? if that makes any sense
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky i appreciate the detailed response. i ordered a block from lowe’s similar to yours, and if it’s not damaged like the last one i should be able to start working on it tonight. when you attached the legs into the top, did you drill pilot holes or did you just drill them directly in. thanks again!
@@sunfade It’s completely optional, but I drilled small pilot holes before installing the legs. I found that it made it easier screwing them in. Hope that helps, and good luck with your project! 😎👍🏼
very detailed and informative, thanks!
I hope it helps! Thank for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky quick question, say for the first coating of stain, do you stain top and bot surface at the same time and let it dry? or you stain top first let it dry, then do the same for bottom? i saw you put something in between the block and the table.
@@patrickwang8867 I stain the bottom side first, then I flip it over and use these things called painter's pyramids which goes in between the block and the table. Those handy little things allow you to stain both sides without having to wait for one side to dry first. It will cut your waiting time in half.
The reason I do the bottom side first is because the pyramids might cause little dimples on the surface, just because of the block's weight. But since they're on the bottom side, the dimples wont be visible.
@@iBJanky Thank you so much, I got them pyramids and made my desk :)
@@patrickwang8867 Great! I’m glad to hear it worked out! 😎👍🏼
Hey man, appreciate the video. I’m currently finishing up staining my butcher block. Will be doing the coats of poly in about 24 hours.
Did you drill into the poly at all? Such as mounting monitors or any other equipment?
@@MikkahLive I had to drill on the underside of the butcher block in order to attach the table legs and other parts. You can check out my desk build in my other video:
th-cam.com/video/HuPFpRzrP0Y/w-d-xo.htmlsi=h_0MYWc2dXeiNSoQ
Hope that helps! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky sweet will check it out. Do you talk about drilling at all? I usually don’t have a problem drilling into studs for tv mounts, or drilling into my old desk but that was different from my understanding.
I’ve seen online that drilling into poly can lead to warping or cracking of the poly?
@ I had no issues at all drilling into the poly. It’s been holding up great.
Awesome video!! Love how you explained everything..going to follow it exactly how you did it. Actually starting it today...thank you very much ..happy new year sir!
Enjoy the process and I’m sure it’ll turn out great! Thanks for watching and happy new year to you as well! 😎👍🏼
Very nice! What kind of butcher block did you use?
Thanks for watching! I got the Sparrow Peak Acacia 72”x30”
Here’s the link to the one I got:
www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Acacia-6-ft-x-30-in/5001790771
The final product looks beautiful and the overall video was great. I think you made the right move to stain it 3 times but...
Even though I love dark woods like walnut when I see the acacia butcher block with a dark stain I can't help but think that its lost some of its beauty. From my point of view it feels too rustic and old. The bright white blocks of wood found within the butcher block stain very weirdly. Having weird black striations. The table is incredibly pretty and it looks fantastic in that afternoon shot you show during the polyurethane step but when seen in natural sunlight and up close it makes me indecisive. You might be wonder why the fuck I'm commenting this randomly on an old video but I coincidentally bought the same butcher block from Lowes and was wondering if a dark finish would look pleasant
Everybody have their own tastes. I too couldn't decide light or dark stain and finally went with none. I bought a sapele wood from Hardware Reflections through HD and decided on a clear topcoat and the natural color of the wood.
It’s all personal preference at the end of the day. I’m sure your project will turn out nice whether or not you decide to stain it. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky I was overthinking and being anal about details. Your project and and sparrowpeak's website made me decide to use the same stain colour. I chose to get a water based stain instead though and even though I've only stained the bottom it came out great. I still have to stain the top and sides, and I have to apply a poly coat afterwards but so far it's looking dope
@@shinigamisecret That’s great to hear. Just take your time and I’m sure you’re going to love the results! 😎👍🏼
Amazing result and great tutorial, definitely deserves more views, easily the best video I've found on this. I may just try to copy your table exactly it turned out so nice looking. Main concerns for me are whether I can keep my apartment ventilated enough to be safe and prevent other tenants from smelling the oil-based stain, and how to stain both sides without marks. Painter's Pyramids are enough to not leave marks?
Thank you for the kind words!
To answer some of your concerns, as long as you can keep the windows open, I don’t think you would have any ventilation issues. I didn’t particularly find the oil-based stain to have any strong odors.
The painters pyramids might leave some tiny dot like marks on the surface, just because how heavy the butcher block is. I thought about that in advance though, and whenever I would start applying a coat of stain or poly, I would apply it to the underside of the butcher block first, with the topside laid flat on the work table without any pyramids. Then I would flip the butcher block, put the underside onto the pyramids, and finish applying the coat to the topside.
Painters pyramids are completely optional. You can do this project without them, it would just take longer if you wanted both sides to be finished. Some people only stain and finish the topside and the side edges, since most people don’t really care what the underside of a desk looks like. If you only stain and finish the topside and the edges, then you won’t be needing to flip the butcher block at all.
@@iBJanky That's a good strategy, some tiny dots on the finished underside of the table are pretty acceptable. Might just get the pyramids since it'd be good to finish this in a weekend. And good to hear about the fumes, perhaps I'll give this a go this weekend or next!
@@AlexOzer Good luck with your project! Let us know how it turns out 😎👍🏼
This is an awesome tutorial, had a few questions as I just started applying poly to my butcher's block atm:
1. Was your tabletop entirely smooth to touch in the end? I can still feel the 'grains' on my surface - similar to what you see at 11:57 (the small black lines scattered throughout the table). This was even after sanding it with 220 grit + wood conditioner + staining
2. Did the wood stain smell linger even after you turned it into a desk? If so how did you end up addressing it?
1. My tabletop was pretty smooth, but of course I can still feel the small ridges and natural grains of the wood. I did not have to get the wood smooth as glass.
2. The wood stain lingered for a few days, then it fades away eventually. You don’t have to do anything, it will go away on its own after some time.
Thanks for watching my video! 🙏🏼
@@iBJanky Good to know - Looking forward to your future videos!
@@jenova993 Thank you! 🙏🏼
Great video
I’m glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Awesome video! Noob here I just bought a Espresso sparrow peak from lowes as well but it's says it's stained already from the description. Is it ok to just apply a finisher or should I sand it first?
You can lightly sand it and apply some poly. Repeat two more times for best results. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky Appreciate it!
@@RamoXZaid You’re welcome!
Thank you so much. Great video. Do we need to sand after final coat of poly?
No need to sand the final coat of poly. Once you’ve applied that, just wait 24 hours for it to dry, and you can start using it.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Looks awesome! I am getting ready to finish mine and install it. Can you let us know which species you went with? Looks like it might be the rubberwood one but I am not sure. Thanks!!
I believe the butcher block was acacia wood. Hope this helps! 😎👍🏼
Great video! I am have had the same butcher block and standing legs that you got in my wish list, glad I found your video with the exact same material! Pulling the trigger soon, when you applied the coat to the bottom portion, how did you do so without damaging the coat you just applied on the top? What did you rest it on when you flipped it over? How long did you wait until you flipped over the butcher block?
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky thank you for the quick response! Yes this helped very much.
@@codywaits4012 You’re most welcome! Let me know how your project turns out 😇
@@iBJanky So basically you flipped the block right away after finishing the bottom side? You flipped it while it was still wet. Wouldn't you leave some marks on the wet surface while flipping it?
@@artexpol No marks were left because I used these things called “painters pyramids”. They are fairly cheap and readily available at Home Depot or Amazon.
They basically suspend the block in the air, so you don’t have to wait for it to dry before working on the other side.
Hope this helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I just did my floors in this exact process and looking to do my butcher block counters in my kitchen the same way. Do I need to worry about chemicals these products may give off??
Once the poly has completely cured, you’re all set. Nothing else to worry about.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I am actually ready to start my project and went looking for a video just like this; it's really well done! For each step shown, did you then flip it over and do the same process? I presume that you did, but am interested to know if you protected the finished surface while you were working on the other side. Also, how did you control excess stain or poly from pooling on the underside around the edges? sometimes you don't see that kind of problem until you flip it and its all dried.
Yes, I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I hope that helps 🙂
@@iBJanky That is very helpful, I never thought of painters pyramids. Thank you for the details!
@@kaseybballvideo You’re welcome! Good luck with your project and let us know how it goes. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Good job
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
From what I’ve read online the poly should take about a full month before it’s fully cured. A lot of people say using it lightly before then is fine, but to not leave anything heavy on it for extended periods or else the finish might be damaged.
Was this your experience? Did you wait a full month before using it as a desk?
I started using it lightly after 24-28 hours. Then it will be fully cured after another 2 or 3 weeks. I hope this helps! 🙂