The accentuated look of the grain from the Gel stain, is EXACTLY what I am looking for in my countertop I am working on. I know you don't like it, but I like the tone difference in the wood. It makes it more "lively" than a solid finish IMO. Thank you so much for this video!!!
That's what I was thinking too. I really like the dramatic shade drop from the rings and think it makes it more of a show off piece than just another wood project I kicked out to end the nagging.
@@timmajorsdj I dont like this guy or video. He doesnt mention you can use tea or coffee as a prestain, since the answer with guys like this is always buy and consoom product . He has no tips or tricks because hes an imposter and an affiliate. Once you recognize their style you can pick them out easy. Furthermore, what are you doing with a stain? A stain is a paint. it prevents UV light from destroying woods lignin, corrupting its structure and making it grey. A stain prevents UV penetration and hides lignin corruption. So a very light stain coating may look attractive, but may not be the way to go, depending on where your locating your project.. Because its initially, and you have no experience or even know what youre doing to see what it would look like 10 or 15 years down the road. There's a reason for going with a dark stain and heavy application, in certain instances. Just food for thought.
Yes, I would have ranked them in reverse order too. The one on the left looks the best by far. It's all subjective, but why use natural wood if you want the result to look unnatural?.
I strongly prefer the accented grain. To me, that's half the point of staining, to make it "pop" and highlight the fact that I've gone to the expense and effort of using real wood, not OSB with a plastic veneer over it. The last thing in the world I would want, is to make the wood look less like wood.
You can't use all accent wood everywhere in your house though. You need to have your accent peices have a subtle background or they look busy and not special.
The one you think is so ugly, I actually love. It's far more interesting IMHO. Though it clearly depends on what you are working on and what you hope to achieve.
Appearance is subjective. I like to see the wood grain, and the splotchy areas. I think it makes the wood more interesting to view. Your work is excellent, it looks factory made.
Very good video! My husband and I are full time carpenters and I absolutely loved this. I like to play with stains and finishes to get the results the customer wants. This is very informative and helpful! Keep up the good work. Thank you!!!
I have stained a ton of clear pine from home stores with gel stains and it works extremely well as you demonstrated to avoid blotching. If you run into areas where you do not wipe off the stain fast enough, sometimes you can reapply the stain, which tends to reactivate the dried area and wipe it back off. This doesn't always work but it is a lot faster than sanding back to bare wood when it does. I have also had great luck spraying water based top coats (sanding between coats) to get a quick build up finish. This helps avoid the overlapping challenges you mentioned.
It's just not a good look if used too much, google "Victorian home interior" and look at how they used the wood back in the day, in stairs and panels and furniture, the grain is very subtle and looks really beautiful and deep as a result.
'Gel based accentuated the growth rings in a pretty darn ugly way' That was EXACTLY the look I want for my retro 70's look recording studio thanks for the tip haha!
I liked the second one most of all. The final version just looked very Ikea to me. Really cool seeing how different techniques end in different results!
Thanks! Your video literally saved my brain. I've just spent a year stripping a piece of furniture I never should have started, then I tested some finishes and have the cathedrals showing up... I figured it was hopeless, but I feel like your dedication to finishes and techniques and this video may have saved the day.
I am going to finish my new natural wood door frames. Your taste isn’t my taste and vice versa. Lots of very worthwhile tips. Thank you so much for showing us all those techniques. I actually like all of the tree rings showing.
For a newbie like me, this is a great video! And I think I will master ONE type of stain/finish way before jumping to another, many details in each. Great job and keep your supporting actress in front of the camera! Great duo!
This might sound silly, but I have had good luck with some of my wife's acrylic paints watered down as a stain. Of course the wood gets prepped and finished in the other ways mentioned, but for my little projects I just can't be bothered to deal with picking out stains at the store. I have no idea what the cost comparison would be if we didn't already have the paints.
I kind of like the accentuated grain look, though! The water than oil combo does look nice. I finally graduated from 2X & plywood building to hardwood. And boy does sanding make a *HUGE* difference. Thanks for another excellent video. That slap of the hand in the beginning was hilarious!
Great overview! Well presented, it's always good to see the direct side-by-side comparisons on test boards. One thing I think _everyone_ should explore though is wipe-on poly. Wipe-on has _so_ many advantages over straight oil-based poly, chief among them being that the method is so almost impossible to screw up that even first-timers can get a great result with almost no effort. The application method inherently gives one or another very nice surface finish - the "hand-rubbed look" is sort of the default - without any significant extra sanding. Not that I'm suggesting people go out and buy wipe-on, because then you pay them (too much) for giving you less actual finish haha. Diluting your own is generally way cheaper, plus it gives the user control over the dilution level which may be best tweaked during the process (1st coat thinner, coats 2-4 less thin, last coat thinner again) and definitely should be tweaked season to season (more dilute for cold weather in an unheated workspace), and what solvent to use (OMS v regular mineral spirits v naptha or xylene) to make a faster- or slower-drying finish as suits the user (and their tolerance for solvent odour!) along with the drying conditions.
It's remarkable how much the video and this comment echo my own experience and recommendations. However, while I also like rub-on poly, I'd advise caution with the rub-on over stain and especially gel stain. Even after a long stain cure (i.e. a couple days) the solvents like to lift the stain and leave it pale, thin, and blotchy or smeared - especially if the target shade was very dark. To avoid this, I thinly apply the first coat with the lightest method practical (such as a foam brush if small scale), let dry without "rubbing," and sand with straight paper only (like printer paper). After that there's enough protection layer to handle firmer application and more aggressive denibbing. But if going from very light wood to very dark stain, and lighter duty protection is sufficient, that milky-when-wet water-based Varathane finish is still more reliable and foolproof. I also personally prefer that finely textured satin sheen over all but the very best oil-based results in any sheen.
Scott's production, performance and scripting are excellent. I wish he would have slowed down on his best and final so it'd be easier to track the steps. He definitely has strong feelings about imperfect coloring and pine grain patterns, but in the right setting and project, imperfect can be the better balance. I love modern design and perfect finishes, but in my house I prefer a more casual, light-rustic feel.
Whenever a video is a bit too fast paced, I like to click the gear icon in the corner, and set the playback speed to 0.75x. Easier than rewinding over & over. Cheers
Same, I love the colors and contrasts. When I look back at color corrected photos from the 60's to 90's, it makes me wonder, where has all the color gone? Why is everything dull and monotone now? Anyways, for me, seeing the grain pattern in wood is extremely soothing and enjoyable.
I use varathane oil base on oak cabinets, use a foam roller high quality, leave alone less than 10 minutes , then wipe off lighty , 2 coats thats it, then choice color oil paint 2 coats thats ut . That is finished . Can see though oak on cabinets. No black line , .... i work for many years. Save $$ better.
The far left labeled “awful” absolutely looks the best. You just need to seal it correctly to keep that stain color. The natural layers of the wood pop, high spots stay lighter and low spots get darker which brings an awesome look to any project.
I actually vastly prefer the "ugly" accentuated construction wood stain, the others just look like a bad paint job to me. The whole point of staining is to have contrast, it's like with pattern welded metal.
The pillows and feet in the air were a hilarious bonus. I thought she was just gonna fall but then her feet fly up and surprised me. I also laugh at the conversation that goes on when you tell her what you are asking her to do for the video.
My favorite finish to use on soft woods is Shellac. You can buy it as clear, amber, or smoke color... or you can dye clear shellac with alcohol based stains. Shellac is easy to apply, easy to repair, & easy to smoooooooooth.
Shellac is nice but can be difficult to apply evenly on large flat surfaces. Plus its horrible for tabletops due to it being soft. I only use Arm-R-Seal by General Finishes for table tops.
@@LBCAndrew If you apply thin coats & sand between coats... shellac is very easy to aplly evenly on large surfaces. Shellac being soft is only a problem if you build a thick finish. In that case, if you desire a glass like coating over a table top... then a self leveling epoxy is better.
@@LBCAndrew I don't have a problem with shellac because I am not looking for a final finish with the first coat. I use cut shellac as a sealer on the first coat and it mostly gets sanded off. For me if I'm looking for a fine finish on wood it typically takes me at least 3 coats. I expect the first two coats to come out like trash. If I'm lucky whatever I do the third time around works. But I don't always get lucky. I keep finishing until I get the results I desire. I will apply poly over shellac for a more durable finish too.
One trick I see a lot for getting a really good sanded finish is that you spray the boards down between each grit with water so that the fibers expand naturally like they would once you start staining, and the sanding takes that off, not just the dry fibers.
If you want to avoid oil-based products, I've had a lot of success with dewaxed shellac (like Seal Coat) bringing out figure in wood before whatever topcoat you want to use (I've used water-based poly and other products, but the dewaxed shellac can be a barrier coat between any two types of finishes). Bonus: the same Seal Coat product will work as your sanding sealer before staining. It also smells really nice. I generally avoid pine (I just don't like how it looks), but other woods, like Cherry, can easily blotch up as well.
Wow that last one looks fantastic for construction lumber. I’m trying to add some 2x10 treads on my basement steps since I’m finishing the area. I just test stained a piece with true black which may be a bit too dark. If I could get the result you had with the Jacobean I would be thrilled.
Very informative video. It answered many questions I’ve had for years. The step by step was great especially when you showed the variations and the different outcomes. The last method gave a very classy finish and look. Good job on the actual video. You talked quickly and clearly with each sentence having a purpose. Some TH-camrs talk to much with to much babbling. Some talk to little and don’t give the viewers a clue what you are trying to show. Thanks again.
Serious question, do people really dislike sanding? That's my favorite part of a project. It's really when you start to feel the texture and see the work that you put into a project. It's so satisfying!
I'm not a fan of sanding. I find the work pretty tedious to do. But at the same time I realize it is part of the job. Still, if I had a magic wand that could do it I'd use it. Sanding is what makes or breaks a finish, that's for sure. If the surface isn't smooth your finish isn't going to be smooth either.
Method three wins but I just can't! I need the shortest and least time consuming method to stay sane. And for that reason, I'm going with the first method. Looks great and thanks for the help!!
I loooove the growth rings and imperfections! As long as the imperfections won't affect the longevity of the item? I think the imperfections are pretty.
For top coats, I've gotten really good results with several thin layers of wiping poly (like 4 ish?), and a thin rattle can coat on top. After it's set up I buff it out with a paper bag aggressively. Ends up looking real nice :) I started with wiping stuff because wow do I hate cleaning brushes.
Progressive thinning coats is how I achieve a fine finish. I want the final finish to be chemical sheen. So I want it to just level off. One secret is after you've built up a finish you need to realize you're not longer finishing wood then. You're finishing finish. So that means you can wet sand. You should wet sand too. I have brush cleaner so I don't mind cleaning brushes. After I brush clean brushes I wash them out with soap and water. I am not a fan of wipe on finishes unless they're just an oil.
The first one is exactly what I’m looking for. It’s going to be in a closet so it’s not something you see all the time but gives you something interesting to look at when you do see it
What a well thought-out and presented video. I came with a question about wood conditioner, and left feeling entertained and maybe even a bit smarter. Thanks.
The method I was taught by my father and have used for about 50 years is the 2 rag method with oil stains, wipe and rub until you achieve the colour you want then wipe off immediately with the second rag then a final wipe. For a finish my favorite compromise is an oil based wipe on poly, lay out all of the rags to completely dry.
I just redid speaker cabinets. oil based stain, 3 coats of satin polyurethane. knocked off nibs with 320 sandpaper on coats one and two . coat 3 ( final) was pretty good. a few specks. used 1000 grit wet sandpaper, wiped it across finish and it took off nibs. didnt dull the finish. im happy with the result .
Take a tip from furniture manufacturers: avoid stain, use alcohol-soluable dyes instead. Add the dye to the topcoat and spray it on. One and done. Obviously, this isn’t for everyone. But dyes (available in both water and alcohol-soluable formulas) are *much* less prone to splotchiness than stains. A stain is a mixture of colored solids ground up and suspended in either water or alkyd. The solids collect in the small troughs between the growth rings present in any wood, making them stand out. Dyes have no solids, so they provide more even color. A bunch of years back I used a bright green stain (Solar-Lux) on BCX plywood (after sanding to 180), covered by acrylic poly. It looked great with nice even color.
I'm a big fan of alcohol-based aniline dyes for non-brown pieces. I used a bright red and bright blue dye on some simple boxes about 20 years ago, and the colors still pop. You have to exercise some care when using them, but because they're alcohol based, there's no heavy oil stink afterwards, and they dry darn near instantly.
Great video, Scott. I'm gonna have to try some of this. Usually the projects made of construction lumber aren't really the ones I'd put much time in finishing them. But with this guide these projects may end up looking a whole lot better. Thanks!
Sir thank you, I have a 1950 home in NY near the Hudson River my bedroom was waxed in 1999 by hand wax from a can. I never used anything else since then and 75 percent of the wax has worn away surrounding the bed. Under the bed I would say wax still there. What my plan I believe will be to remove all from bedroom and seed if I can screen the floor with 120,150, grit sandpaper on large buffer, then clean it all up and apply Pre stain Minwax and then apply Minwax Golden Oak Stain. Then wait 24 full hours and apply Water Base Procoat Polycarbonate 2 component urethane. How does that sound?
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Scott doesn't like the organic/contrasty look of the first result. I disagree with him, but that's my personal preference. Overall, an informative vid to show how to get the result YOU are looking for.
I like the one in the far left of the thumbnail, it’s gorgeous, really shows off the beauty of the wood grain. Maybe the contrast is a bit high on that piece, but that’s not a deal breaker for me
2 coats Danish oil + 3 coats water-based polyurethane is my go-to finish. Sand with 180 grit between coats on the urethane. Watco's been super backed up on their manufacturing side though so you might have to haunt a bunch of different stores to get the hookup.
Great video. I will take your tip on vacuuming between sanding passes to fix some issues I had on a recent project (couple of swirles made it through). As for my favourite method...Optionally wipe wood with water to open pours if I want to get darker stain (with a quick final sand after it dries). Next apply oil stain with an old sock (no lint due to years of washing, holes optional) but only wipe on what the wood can immediately absorb for an even coat (re coat if needed later). Apply thinned out layer of oil based poly for first coat. Apply second coat. Sand second coat with either 600 grit paper or fine steel wool. Apply final coat with foam applicator but super thin, like squeegee/push it on not brush (adds final gloss without any brush marks).
Traditionally you're supposed to use a tack cloth to remove dust between coats. But if a vacuum does it then more power to ya. The problem with running a vacuum is it may put dust in the air. Dust that may then settle on the work you're doing. We don't all have HEPA vacuum cleaners.
As a wood worker that sells products I can say there's a huge market that will buy stuff BECAUSE it has stained knots showing. Don't put your personal preference into the mix. Do one with, do one without. Watch them both sell. Repeat process.
It is a good video, and your method is solid. If you want depth to your water base clear finishes, after staining, put a coat or two of shellac on first; it is very easy to apply and will give you a nice finish. You can use clear or amber, depending on the hue you want. you can then apply the water-based poly over the shellac and have the same look as the oil poly without the smell or difficulty in applying it. It's just a thought; as I said, your method is solid.
I have given up on trying to stain pine, construction grade or otherwise. Pine=paint for me. If you use milk paint or chalk paint, you can still be left with a look of pleasing grain texture, depending on your technique.
Personally I like cathedral grain and choose/cut my lumber to get more of it. This dose bring its own problems with cupping. As long as you are aware of this and work with it it can make for some dramatic finishes.
Cathedral grain is the least desirable cut of wood. It is indicative of flat sawn wood. But that's what low end wood is. Better wood is rift or quarter sawn.
I get surprisingly good results by 'sanding' with a brown paper bag (if you can find one...). I read somewhere it is the equivalent of 4000 grit. Wrap it around a sanding block to get a nice flat surface. Try it. You will be amazed at how smooth it can get.
So many different types of finishes you can make look awesome. Each one can make a piece of furniture look very cool. Sometimes even sanding is not desirable depending on the project. Sounds crazy , but its not. I use spray paint on wood all the time before i ever sand. Add stain that has been deluted with thinner so it goes deeper into the wood, gives a good color without saturation of that color. Then after sanding adding colored wax instead of sealers. Just one way, but it goes to show that theres a thousand ways to get great colors and depth with and amazing soft to the touch feel. If a piece is suppose to look old then process changes compared to just a new stained product. So many fun ways. Get creative in your project by exploring different ideas. Youll be amazed. Great channel and great information.
Sometimes the old way isn't so bad: I'm a fan of shellac. 1:6 with alcohol as a pre-conditioner (spitcoat), then an oil or water based stain, then more shellac. You could also go all out for full French Polishing, if you really want to go nuts with it. That gets gorgeous results. If I'm feeling lazy, Tung oil, Danish oil, or linseed oil make a perfectly good stain and finish all in one. They aren't the most robust, but they look good.
Man I saw the thumbnail for this and had to come see why someone would like all their wood to look like 80's wall paneling. Apparently there is a market for that still, he is right here with a youtube show.
Another trouble spot for staining blotchiness is glue. If you glue up boards before staining, don't use so much glue that it runs all over. Use just enough to get a small bead of squeeze out and do not wipe it off. Wait until the bead is dry then scrape it off. This will save you a lot of sanding to get through the glue that soaked into the wood. Stain won't stain glue.
Oh my word - that tip just might save our marriage. lol My husband is a skilled woodworker, but this glue issue has been the bane of his existence - such a simple solution - don't smear and you have to sand anyway, so chipping it off once it's dried makes perfect sense.
@@dianapuppy4141 There are a bunch of ways of avoiding issues with glue squeeze-out. I presume your hubby might have seen a number of these before, or by now, but I'll list a few tips in case they're useful. First, wiping off wet IS a legit method (and many pros do this). But it's rarely shown or explained how thoroughly you need to do it to avoid problems. First thing is to use plenty of clean water, second is to wipe more than once. Almost nobody wipes more than once _with clean water and/or a fresh rag_ and that alone makes a huuuge difference. I think three times is the minimum for guaranteed effectiveness and I wipe dry as the last pass. Not always doable, but applying sanding dust to the area and then brushing off with a firm bristle brush (toothbrushes, medium or firm, work great for this) This tip has been around for ages: tape along the joint edges. This can be 100% effective, but it uses a lot of tape in the long run (potentially an issue if you're using the expensive blue or green stuff). Anyway, the glue goes onto the tape, and can be wiped off, wet or dry. Provide space inside the joint for glue to go, so that none or almost none is available to squeeze out onto the surface. This is best covered in detail in an article, and I think Fine Woodworking had one last year or the year before that explains this well, with detailed photos. Last one is to pre-finish before final assembly. This isn't always possible depending on the project type, but where you can do it the dried finish acts as a barrier to glue penetration, and makes wiping off spills or squeeze-out super effective and easy. Hope it helps!
I love the detail you go into in this video. I'm assuming most of those tips would transfer to other woods too. I dont use stain much at all. I tend to find the wood that looks like what I want it to look like. I understand thats not always cost effective though.
Loved the video, but one contention - don't skip the conditioner if your wood is dry. I have used gel stain directly on freshly purchased wood with no issue, but wood that has been dried out *will* splotch. I agree that you don't need it all the time, but I definitely think it depends on the project.
I usually use 3-0 steel wool on each coat of poly to get the smoothness and lustre of the finish in your final piece. Keep a strong magnet nearby and shop vac running to clear the air of steel wool bits, in addition to a good mask.
I’m really trying to get better at hand planing most of my final surfaces to reduce sanding time, sand paper expense over time, and reduce dust. There’s a learning curve for technique, and a huge learning curve for how to tune up the cheap home store versions of the tools. I’ve had mostly good luck starting out with that thanks to TH-camrs focusing on the diy/new woodworker hobbyists. Thanks for the great video.
Hand planing can burnish wood surfaces. The grain gets closed up. Then finishes may not apply well. So before I finish a piece I've planed I rough it up some with sandpaper. Very fine sandpaper. 220 grit works for me. I am just looking to knock off the case hardened layer. That light sand evens everything up.
I understand why you'd say the first one is awful. The wood conditioner helps. However, when using wood conditioner the gel finish turns out lighter. It could have used another coat or two. I think that would have helped tremendously- completely changed the entire look. I'm not crazy with the color you chose either. Some of us are working with this type of pine with the frustrating inconsistencies in grain and density. My next step is to get away from it and move on to better cuts. For the "awful" pieces, I use two coats of pre-stain conditioner, making sure to combat blotchiness. Then as many coats as it takes of gel stain for them not to look awful. :) Then top coat several coats. It's a pain in the ass. After I'm done with the next few projects, I'm moving on to higher quality wood. Looking forward to being able to try oil/wax matte products like Rubio Monocoat, etc.
I just came here to say the one you called awful is Actually the best looking one and looks nice and rustic and like natural wood! I’m looking to achieve that look exactly.
Nobody uses liquid wax applied with wet sandpaper anymore. That's what I used on my 3-piece project in HS wood shop in 1973 and the finish is still deep and smooth today. Yes, I still have my little book rack... somewhere.
For stain, my favorite way to do it is add stain to the polyurethane and apply as a single finish. Comes out a lot more evenly. I usually apply it with a foam brush.
@@MegaShitfactory yup. Generally, I add just a little then mix it and use a test piece. If I need to go darker, I add a little more. It usually doesn't take much and one coat generally does it. If I need a bit more durability, I'll go over it with clear polly.
I like to go for method 3 but, swap the polyurethane for a tung oil finish and make it super glossy with a variable speed orbital polisher and wood wax
I feel like you used different species of wood to accentuate the difference. Different techniques in different species of wood are a must to achieve good results.
The best and easiest method for me is using water base product with synthetic brush for clear coat after using stain applied with cloth. This is the one method I have had the least correction work to do when I am finished for me that is what it’s all about. I find most people do not see the difference and if finish is real smooth to the touch they are happy.
Thank you for this video. I learned a lot. Unfortunately, I made a mistake. I applied a water-based stain and added an oil stain after, Not knowing it was bad to mix the two products together. Surprisingly, my wood looks good. However, it’s drying slowly. What should I do now? Thank you for your help.
Hi Anna, it's fine to apply an oil stain over top of a water stain. If it's still feeling tacky after 48 hrs, you may have some excess stain that needs to be wiped off with a clean, dry rag. Also, make sure you're letting the stain dry in a room temperature environment.
I think the ugly pine looked great, but I am in the minority on this. I do appreciate the ability to stain and conceal or de-louden the knotty look with cheep lumber, make decent casework for resale real estate and look like im Ethan Allen, however. I appreciate this. I was of the mindset that the only option was to paint, which can be cool in the short run but often what is cool now is an ugly meme when it comes time to sell a house.
When I sand, I use a tack cloth with paint thinner as I find this opens the grain better and can get more dust out than vacuuming. I also use this method between coats of urethane and sand with steel wool. Need to Make sure the paint thinner dries between coats but it does so quickly.
I just started working on a dining table project and I'm thinking about maple plywood as the top. I'm testing out various stains to see what I like best. I have collected lots of stains on markdown over the last two years. I can confidently say this, HomeDepots products are terrible Behr paint doesn't hold up, Varethane stains are very weak, and Varathane finishes don't protect very well at all.
You know what help really drive your point - taking pieces of wood with completely different grain and quality. If you take a look before any stain is applied, you can already see the result. While some of the things said are true, the results illustrated are manipulated and would not pass any review from my perspective. You can also polish construction lumber with 2000 grit, still wouldn't change the quality of the wood itself or stop it from bowing months later.
Some nice tips, but you really need to start your finish choices with how and where your project will be used. If your project is going to be used outdoors, in wet areas like kitchens or bathrooms, or be exposed to harsher cleaning chemicals then water based is out. They are made to be easier to apply and clean up, and with lower VOC's, but they don't offer the surface protection that oil base and solvent based polyurethane finishes do. Newer water based finishes are slowly being created for the industrial market that have better protection characteristics, but they are very pricey and it will be years before a similar product makes it's way into box and hardware stores. Also to get a smoother finish I typically use a sanding sealer. It's applied on top of stained wood at about 3 mils thick and then sands easily with 220-320 grit sanding sponges to create a much smoother and level base for your top coat.
If you use a foam brush to apply Minwax PreStain conditioner, make sure to pour the PreStain Conditioner in a separate container. Something in the foam brush will contaminate the product causing it to gel up. I use Minwax PreStain conditioner a lot and discovered this by accident. At first I didn’t realize what happened to it and even spoke to the tech guys at Minwax who couldn’t figure it out. Finally, by process of elimination and experimention, I discovered it was the foam brush that causing the product to turn into a waxy gel.
I like the one you called "awful". I think it looks pretty cool
It may look fine on a single board, but on a larger scale it tends to look busy.
I agree with you, Karen. The one that was termed awful looked very good to me.
I completely agree. The beauty of wood is the grain contrasts, design and flow.
Otherwise, you may as well use mdf 🙄
Imo it's not that it looks bad, it's that it looks dated. Reminds me of something I would see in my grandma's house
@@Hyperlooper good point.
The accentuated look of the grain from the Gel stain, is EXACTLY what I am looking for in my countertop I am working on. I know you don't like it, but I like the tone difference in the wood. It makes it more "lively" than a solid finish IMO. Thank you so much for this video!!!
That's what I was thinking too. I really like the dramatic shade drop from the rings and think it makes it more of a show off piece than just another wood project I kicked out to end the nagging.
@@timmajorsdj I dont like this guy or video. He doesnt mention you can use tea or coffee as a prestain, since the answer with guys like this is always buy and consoom product . He has no tips or tricks because hes an imposter and an affiliate. Once you recognize their style you can pick them out easy. Furthermore, what are you doing with a stain? A stain is a paint. it prevents UV light from destroying woods lignin, corrupting its structure and making it grey. A stain prevents UV penetration and hides lignin corruption. So a very light stain coating may look attractive, but may not be the way to go, depending on where your locating your project.. Because its initially, and you have no experience or even know what youre doing to see what it would look like 10 or 15 years down the road. There's a reason for going with a dark stain and heavy application, in certain instances. Just food for thought.
I completely agree. I think the first one looks much better. If I wanted the natural beauty of the wood to disappear, I would just paint it.
Yes, I would have ranked them in reverse order too. The one on the left looks the best by far. It's all subjective, but why use natural wood if you want the result to look unnatural?.
@@gantz4u nobody uses tea or coffee as a prestain
It's remarkable how good youve made this construction lumber look. I sincerely didn't think it could turn out like this.
I strongly prefer the accented grain. To me, that's half the point of staining, to make it "pop" and highlight the fact that I've gone to the expense and effort of using real wood, not OSB with a plastic veneer over it. The last thing in the world I would want, is to make the wood look less like wood.
it looks like a cheap stain and not an expensive wood.
Depends on what the customer wants! If he wants the highlighted wood so be it, it has its own charm
You can't use all accent wood everywhere in your house though. You need to have your accent peices have a subtle background or they look busy and not special.
But wood doesnt ever look like that naturally.. so you end up making it looking less like real wood.
That's exactly the issue "look at me, I'm using real wood" it's tacky.
The one you think is so ugly, I actually love. It's far more interesting IMHO. Though it clearly depends on what you are working on and what you hope to achieve.
Appearance is subjective. I like to see the wood grain, and the splotchy areas. I think it makes the wood more interesting to view. Your work is excellent, it looks factory made.
Very good video! My husband and I are full time carpenters and I absolutely loved this. I like to play with stains and finishes to get the results the customer wants. This is very informative and helpful! Keep up the good work. Thank you!!!
I have stained a ton of clear pine from home stores with gel stains and it works extremely well as you demonstrated to avoid blotching. If you run into areas where you do not wipe off the stain fast enough, sometimes you can reapply the stain, which tends to reactivate the dried area and wipe it back off. This doesn't always work but it is a lot faster than sanding back to bare wood when it does. I have also had great luck spraying water based top coats (sanding between coats) to get a quick build up finish. This helps avoid the overlapping challenges you mentioned.
I actually prefer the accentuated grain finish. It’s adds some depth and detail that I think can be a really neat feature.
see that's your opinion
I thought most of us did😂
I think most people probably would too.
It's just not a good look if used too much, google "Victorian home interior" and look at how they used the wood back in the day, in stairs and panels and furniture, the grain is very subtle and looks really beautiful and deep as a result.
I use gel stain specifically because it accentuates the growth rings, and I love that look.
Exactly ! I want to stain b/c I want the beauty of the natural wood to show....otherwise I'd just paint the darn thing.
'Gel based accentuated the growth rings in a pretty darn ugly way' That was EXACTLY the look I want for my retro 70's look recording studio thanks for the tip haha!
Living in a house with random-width stained pine on the basement room walls, I can't see why *anyone* would want to do this to themselves :)
@@Psychlist1972 I've since finished my build and I think it looks awesome!
@@Viriditas Nice
I really like 70s wood styles. It’s interesting to how the rings look with all their curvy lines.
@@Viriditas With the right lighting, the wood rings can accentuate a lava lamp.
The water + oil finish is soooo good! It makes the cheap lumber looks so nice.
I think that was more the 1000 grit finish. IMHO
I liked the second one most of all. The final version just looked very Ikea to me. Really cool seeing how different techniques end in different results!
Thanks! Your video literally saved my brain. I've just spent a year stripping a piece of furniture I never should have started, then I tested some finishes and have the cathedrals showing up... I figured it was hopeless, but I feel like your dedication to finishes and techniques and this video may have saved the day.
Thank you so much! Cheers!
I am going to finish my new natural wood door frames. Your taste isn’t my taste and vice versa. Lots of very worthwhile tips. Thank you so much for showing us all those techniques. I actually like all of the tree rings showing.
so do I.
and I HATE the plastic look of the poly
Love the humor. You're crushing it with these videos!!!
Sanding is our true hobby, everything else is a by product of that hobby.
I love the interaction with your wife in your videos. Fantastic VoiceOver ;)
For a newbie like me, this is a great video! And I think I will master ONE type of stain/finish way before jumping to another, many details in each. Great job and keep your supporting actress in front of the camera! Great duo!
This might sound silly, but I have had good luck with some of my wife's acrylic paints watered down as a stain. Of course the wood gets prepped and finished in the other ways mentioned, but for my little projects I just can't be bothered to deal with picking out stains at the store. I have no idea what the cost comparison would be if we didn't already have the paints.
Regular old latex paint works as well. There's a couple videos here on TH-cam about it.
I’ve used burnt umber with great success.
Paint washing is awesome!
It’s not silly at all. Acrylic paint is veritable and I may try too, too. Thank you.
3:25 embracing the growth rings looks the best to me. If I wanted uniform texture, I'd buy plastic...
I kind of like the accentuated grain look, though! The water than oil combo does look nice. I finally graduated from 2X & plywood building to hardwood. And boy does sanding make a *HUGE* difference. Thanks for another excellent video. That slap of the hand in the beginning was hilarious!
Me too
The way you present all this info...so nice. Other videos have you watch them stain the entire process and you just skip right to it.
Your videos are just great. Love the personality you bring along with really trying to be entertaining and informative. Keep up the great work!
Great overview! Well presented, it's always good to see the direct side-by-side comparisons on test boards. One thing I think _everyone_ should explore though is wipe-on poly. Wipe-on has _so_ many advantages over straight oil-based poly, chief among them being that the method is so almost impossible to screw up that even first-timers can get a great result with almost no effort. The application method inherently gives one or another very nice surface finish - the "hand-rubbed look" is sort of the default - without any significant extra sanding.
Not that I'm suggesting people go out and buy wipe-on, because then you pay them (too much) for giving you less actual finish haha. Diluting your own is generally way cheaper, plus it gives the user control over the dilution level which may be best tweaked during the process (1st coat thinner, coats 2-4 less thin, last coat thinner again) and definitely should be tweaked season to season (more dilute for cold weather in an unheated workspace), and what solvent to use (OMS v regular mineral spirits v naptha or xylene) to make a faster- or slower-drying finish as suits the user (and their tolerance for solvent odour!) along with the drying conditions.
It's remarkable how much the video and this comment echo my own experience and recommendations.
However, while I also like rub-on poly, I'd advise caution with the rub-on over stain and especially gel stain. Even after a long stain cure (i.e. a couple days) the solvents like to lift the stain and leave it pale, thin, and blotchy or smeared - especially if the target shade was very dark. To avoid this, I thinly apply the first coat with the lightest method practical (such as a foam brush if small scale), let dry without "rubbing," and sand with straight paper only (like printer paper). After that there's enough protection layer to handle firmer application and more aggressive denibbing.
But if going from very light wood to very dark stain, and lighter duty protection is sufficient, that milky-when-wet water-based Varathane finish is still more reliable and foolproof. I also personally prefer that finely textured satin sheen over all but the very best oil-based results in any sheen.
Scott's production, performance and scripting are excellent. I wish he would have slowed down on his best and final so it'd be easier to track the steps. He definitely has strong feelings about imperfect coloring and pine grain patterns, but in the right setting and project, imperfect can be the better balance. I love modern design and perfect finishes, but in my house I prefer a more casual, light-rustic feel.
This mans advice right here
Whenever a video is a bit too fast paced, I like to click the gear icon in the corner, and set the playback speed to 0.75x. Easier than rewinding over & over.
Cheers
@@mikegammo9002 Great tip, thx
Same, I love the colors and contrasts.
When I look back at color corrected photos from the 60's to 90's, it makes me wonder, where has all the color gone? Why is everything dull and monotone now?
Anyways, for me, seeing the grain pattern in wood is extremely soothing and enjoyable.
I use varathane oil base on oak cabinets, use a foam roller high quality, leave alone less than 10 minutes , then wipe off lighty , 2 coats thats it, then choice color oil paint 2 coats thats ut . That is finished . Can see though oak on cabinets. No black line , .... i work for many years. Save $$ better.
The far left labeled “awful” absolutely looks the best. You just need to seal it correctly to keep that stain color. The natural layers of the wood pop, high spots stay lighter and low spots get darker which brings an awesome look to any project.
I totally agree. I love that look. the rest of them look dull and not interesting.
Another great video Scott. It's interesting to see some fine furniture level work being done on construction lumber. Keep up the good work.
I actually vastly prefer the "ugly" accentuated construction wood stain, the others just look like a bad paint job to me.
The whole point of staining is to have contrast, it's like with pattern welded metal.
i agree you want the contrast otherwise its well boring, nothing to see here
the whole point of staining is to change it to your preference
I rarely use stain because getting the right technique can be a challenge. I like method 2 though. Very well presented. Thanks!
The pillows and feet in the air were a hilarious bonus. I thought she was just gonna fall but then her feet fly up and surprised me. I also laugh at the conversation that goes on when you tell her what you are asking her to do for the video.
My favorite finish to use on soft woods is Shellac.
You can buy it as clear, amber, or smoke color... or you can dye clear shellac with alcohol based stains.
Shellac is easy to apply, easy to repair, & easy to smoooooooooth.
Shellac is nice but can be difficult to apply evenly on large flat surfaces. Plus its horrible for tabletops due to it being soft. I only use Arm-R-Seal by General Finishes for table tops.
@@LBCAndrew
If you apply thin coats & sand between coats... shellac is very easy to aplly evenly on large surfaces.
Shellac being soft is only a problem if you build a thick finish. In that case, if you desire a glass like coating over a table top... then a self leveling epoxy is better.
@@LBCAndrew I don't have a problem with shellac because I am not looking for a final finish with the first coat. I use cut shellac as a sealer on the first coat and it mostly gets sanded off. For me if I'm looking for a fine finish on wood it typically takes me at least 3 coats. I expect the first two coats to come out like trash. If I'm lucky whatever I do the third time around works. But I don't always get lucky. I keep finishing until I get the results I desire. I will apply poly over shellac for a more durable finish too.
One trick I see a lot for getting a really good sanded finish is that you spray the boards down between each grit with water so that the fibers expand naturally like they would once you start staining, and the sanding takes that off, not just the dry fibers.
Sanding wet wood is annoying :c
@@chang.stanley You don't soak it, you just get the fibers on the surface to pop a bit.
@@chang.stanley you let the wood dry before sanding it. Still makes the grain pop and you get a better result
@@sarahjoyce5041 Oh, cool :O
This is called water popping. Wood floor installers/finishers use this too.
If you want to avoid oil-based products, I've had a lot of success with dewaxed shellac (like Seal Coat) bringing out figure in wood before whatever topcoat you want to use (I've used water-based poly and other products, but the dewaxed shellac can be a barrier coat between any two types of finishes). Bonus: the same Seal Coat product will work as your sanding sealer before staining. It also smells really nice.
I generally avoid pine (I just don't like how it looks), but other woods, like Cherry, can easily blotch up as well.
Wow that last one looks fantastic for construction lumber. I’m trying to add some 2x10 treads on my basement steps since I’m finishing the area. I just test stained a piece with true black which may be a bit too dark. If I could get the result you had with the Jacobean I would be thrilled.
Very informative video. It answered many questions I’ve had for years. The step by step was great especially when you showed the variations and the different outcomes. The last method gave a very classy finish and look. Good job on the actual video. You talked quickly and clearly with each sentence having a purpose. Some TH-camrs talk to much with to much babbling. Some talk to little and don’t give the viewers a clue what you are trying to show. Thanks again.
Lots of great information in this video. I need to watch it again and take notes. Great job Scott
The one you think is awful is actually the nicest looking one.
I love how Scott displays his Japanese Ryoba Saw as if it were a Samarai sword!
Serious question, do people really dislike sanding? That's my favorite part of a project. It's really when you start to feel the texture and see the work that you put into a project. It's so satisfying!
@B.L.A. That sounds Like a good thing to me.....
I'm not a fan of sanding. I find the work pretty tedious to do. But at the same time I realize it is part of the job. Still, if I had a magic wand that could do it I'd use it. Sanding is what makes or breaks a finish, that's for sure. If the surface isn't smooth your finish isn't going to be smooth either.
Method three wins but I just can't! I need the shortest and least time consuming method to stay sane. And for that reason, I'm going with the first method. Looks great and thanks for the help!!
I loooove the growth rings and imperfections! As long as the imperfections won't affect the longevity of the item? I think the imperfections are pretty.
Great video! I would've loved to have seen a final labeled comparison at the end.
Regardless of one's preference, is nice to see these options and how they vary the results. Thanks for sharing!
For top coats, I've gotten really good results with several thin layers of wiping poly (like 4 ish?), and a thin rattle can coat on top. After it's set up I buff it out with a paper bag aggressively. Ends up looking real nice :) I started with wiping stuff because wow do I hate cleaning brushes.
Progressive thinning coats is how I achieve a fine finish. I want the final finish to be chemical sheen. So I want it to just level off. One secret is after you've built up a finish you need to realize you're not longer finishing wood then. You're finishing finish. So that means you can wet sand. You should wet sand too. I have brush cleaner so I don't mind cleaning brushes. After I brush clean brushes I wash them out with soap and water. I am not a fan of wipe on finishes unless they're just an oil.
The first one is exactly what I’m looking for. It’s going to be in a closet so it’s not something you see all the time but gives you something interesting to look at when you do see it
This is the video I wished was around when I first started working with stains and finishes. Great job Scott!
Thanks AJ!
The Bob Ross clip was hilarious!
What a well thought-out and presented video. I came with a question about wood conditioner, and left feeling entertained and maybe even a bit smarter. Thanks.
The method I was taught by my father and have used for about 50 years is the 2 rag method with oil stains, wipe and rub until you achieve the colour you want then wipe off immediately with the second rag then a final wipe. For a finish my favorite compromise is an oil based wipe on poly, lay out all of the rags to completely dry.
I just redid speaker cabinets. oil based stain, 3 coats of satin polyurethane. knocked off nibs with 320 sandpaper on coats one and two . coat 3 ( final) was pretty good. a few specks. used 1000 grit wet sandpaper, wiped it across finish and it took off nibs. didnt dull the finish. im happy with the result .
Take a tip from furniture manufacturers: avoid stain, use alcohol-soluable dyes instead. Add the dye to the topcoat and spray it on. One and done. Obviously, this isn’t for everyone. But dyes (available in both water and alcohol-soluable formulas) are *much* less prone to splotchiness than stains. A stain is a mixture of colored solids ground up and suspended in either water or alkyd. The solids collect in the small troughs between the growth rings present in any wood, making them stand out. Dyes have no solids, so they provide more even color. A bunch of years back I used a bright green stain (Solar-Lux) on BCX plywood (after sanding to 180), covered by acrylic poly. It looked great with nice even color.
I'm a big fan of alcohol-based aniline dyes for non-brown pieces. I used a bright red and bright blue dye on some simple boxes about 20 years ago, and the colors still pop.
You have to exercise some care when using them, but because they're alcohol based, there's no heavy oil stink afterwards, and they dry darn near instantly.
Another advantage to alcohol dyes is that they're very easy to mix and customize once you learn how.
I would never add the dye to the topcoat since it makes it look muddy. I put my dye in the wood, and the finish ON the wood.
Great video, Scott. I'm gonna have to try some of this. Usually the projects made of construction lumber aren't really the ones I'd put much time in finishing them. But with this guide these projects may end up looking a whole lot better. Thanks!
Sir thank you, I have a 1950 home in NY near the Hudson River my bedroom was waxed in 1999 by hand wax from a can. I never used anything else since then and 75 percent of the wax has worn away surrounding the bed. Under the bed I would say wax still there.
What my plan I believe will be to remove all from bedroom and seed if I can screen the floor with 120,150, grit sandpaper on large buffer, then clean it all up and apply Pre stain Minwax and then apply Minwax Golden Oak Stain. Then wait 24 full hours and apply Water Base Procoat Polycarbonate 2 component urethane.
How does that sound?
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Scott doesn't like the organic/contrasty look of the first result. I disagree with him, but that's my personal preference. Overall, an informative vid to show how to get the result YOU are looking for.
I like the one in the far left of the thumbnail, it’s gorgeous, really shows off the beauty of the wood grain. Maybe the contrast is a bit high on that piece, but that’s not a deal breaker for me
I love the look of the gel-based stain, but you can't deny how clean that final one was.
2 coats Danish oil + 3 coats water-based polyurethane is my go-to finish. Sand with 180 grit between coats on the urethane. Watco's been super backed up on their manufacturing side though so you might have to haunt a bunch of different stores to get the hookup.
Great video. I will take your tip on vacuuming between sanding passes to fix some issues I had on a recent project (couple of swirles made it through). As for my favourite method...Optionally wipe wood with water to open pours if I want to get darker stain (with a quick final sand after it dries). Next apply oil stain with an old sock (no lint due to years of washing, holes optional) but only wipe on what the wood can immediately absorb for an even coat (re coat if needed later). Apply thinned out layer of oil based poly for first coat. Apply second coat. Sand second coat with either 600 grit paper or fine steel wool. Apply final coat with foam applicator but super thin, like squeegee/push it on not brush (adds final gloss without any brush marks).
Traditionally you're supposed to use a tack cloth to remove dust between coats. But if a vacuum does it then more power to ya. The problem with running a vacuum is it may put dust in the air. Dust that may then settle on the work you're doing. We don't all have HEPA vacuum cleaners.
I appreciate the info as well as the humor. I was cracking up at a few parts.
As a wood worker that sells products I can say there's a huge market that will buy stuff BECAUSE it has stained knots showing. Don't put your personal preference into the mix. Do one with, do one without. Watch them both sell. Repeat process.
It is a good video, and your method is solid. If you want depth to your water base clear finishes, after staining, put a coat or two of shellac on first; it is very easy to apply and will give you a nice finish. You can use clear or amber, depending on the hue you want. you can then apply the water-based poly over the shellac and have the same look as the oil poly without the smell or difficulty in applying it. It's just a thought; as I said, your method is solid.
I have given up on trying to stain pine, construction grade or otherwise. Pine=paint for me. If you use milk paint or chalk paint, you can still be left with a look of pleasing grain texture, depending on your technique.
Personally I like cathedral grain and choose/cut my lumber to get more of it. This dose bring its own problems with cupping. As long as you are aware of this and work with it it can make for some dramatic finishes.
Cathedral grain is the least desirable cut of wood. It is indicative of flat sawn wood. But that's what low end wood is. Better wood is rift or quarter sawn.
Funny, informative, and with everyone's favourite guest star! What more could anyone ask for! :)
I get surprisingly good results by 'sanding' with a brown paper bag (if you can find one...). I read somewhere it is the equivalent of 4000 grit. Wrap it around a sanding block to get a nice flat surface. Try it. You will be amazed at how smooth it can get.
So many different types of finishes you can make look awesome. Each one can make a piece of furniture look very cool. Sometimes even sanding is not desirable depending on the project. Sounds crazy , but its not. I use spray paint on wood all the time before i ever sand. Add stain that has been deluted with thinner so it goes deeper into the wood, gives a good color without saturation of that color. Then after sanding adding colored wax instead of sealers. Just one way, but it goes to show that theres a thousand ways to get great colors and depth with and amazing soft to the touch feel. If a piece is suppose to look old then process changes compared to just a new stained product. So many fun ways. Get creative in your project by exploring different ideas. Youll be amazed. Great channel and great information.
Willing to bet the accentuated growth rings is desirable to most people watching this video
Wonderful video! Thank you for all the great tips and advise... can't wait to get started on some kitchen cabinets!
Sometimes the old way isn't so bad: I'm a fan of shellac. 1:6 with alcohol as a pre-conditioner (spitcoat), then an oil or water based stain, then more shellac. You could also go all out for full French Polishing, if you really want to go nuts with it. That gets gorgeous results.
If I'm feeling lazy, Tung oil, Danish oil, or linseed oil make a perfectly good stain and finish all in one. They aren't the most robust, but they look good.
Man I saw the thumbnail for this and had to come see why someone would like all their wood to look like 80's wall paneling. Apparently there is a market for that still, he is right here with a youtube show.
Another trouble spot for staining blotchiness is glue. If you glue up boards before staining, don't use so much glue that it runs all over. Use just enough to get a small bead of squeeze out and do not wipe it off. Wait until the bead is dry then scrape it off. This will save you a lot of sanding to get through the glue that soaked into the wood. Stain won't stain glue.
Oh my word - that tip just might save our marriage. lol My husband is a skilled woodworker, but this glue issue has been the bane of his existence - such a simple solution - don't smear and you have to sand anyway, so chipping it off once it's dried makes perfect sense.
@@dianapuppy4141 There are a bunch of ways of avoiding issues with glue squeeze-out. I presume your hubby might have seen a number of these before, or by now, but I'll list a few tips in case they're useful.
First, wiping off wet IS a legit method (and many pros do this). But it's rarely shown or explained how thoroughly you need to do it to avoid problems. First thing is to use plenty of clean water, second is to wipe more than once. Almost nobody wipes more than once _with clean water and/or a fresh rag_ and that alone makes a huuuge difference. I think three times is the minimum for guaranteed effectiveness and I wipe dry as the last pass.
Not always doable, but applying sanding dust to the area and then brushing off with a firm bristle brush (toothbrushes, medium or firm, work great for this)
This tip has been around for ages: tape along the joint edges. This can be 100% effective, but it uses a lot of tape in the long run (potentially an issue if you're using the expensive blue or green stuff). Anyway, the glue goes onto the tape, and can be wiped off, wet or dry.
Provide space inside the joint for glue to go, so that none or almost none is available to squeeze out onto the surface. This is best covered in detail in an article, and I think Fine Woodworking had one last year or the year before that explains this well, with detailed photos.
Last one is to pre-finish before final assembly. This isn't always possible depending on the project type, but where you can do it the dried finish acts as a barrier to glue penetration, and makes wiping off spills or squeeze-out super effective and easy.
Hope it helps!
I love the detail you go into in this video. I'm assuming most of those tips would transfer to other woods too.
I dont use stain much at all. I tend to find the wood that looks like what I want it to look like. I understand thats not always cost effective though.
Loved the video, but one contention - don't skip the conditioner if your wood is dry. I have used gel stain directly on freshly purchased wood with no issue, but wood that has been dried out *will* splotch. I agree that you don't need it all the time, but I definitely think it depends on the project.
I usually use 3-0 steel wool on each coat of poly to get the smoothness and lustre of the finish in your final piece. Keep a strong magnet nearby and shop vac running to clear the air of steel wool bits, in addition to a good mask.
I’m really trying to get better at hand planing most of my final surfaces to reduce sanding time, sand paper expense over time, and reduce dust. There’s a learning curve for technique, and a huge learning curve for how to tune up the cheap home store versions of the tools. I’ve had mostly good luck starting out with that thanks to TH-camrs focusing on the diy/new woodworker hobbyists. Thanks for the great video.
Hand planing can burnish wood surfaces. The grain gets closed up. Then finishes may not apply well. So before I finish a piece I've planed I rough it up some with sandpaper. Very fine sandpaper. 220 grit works for me. I am just looking to knock off the case hardened layer. That light sand evens everything up.
@@1pcfred thanks for the tip
I understand why you'd say the first one is awful. The wood conditioner helps. However, when using wood conditioner the gel finish turns out lighter. It could have used another coat or two. I think that would have helped tremendously- completely changed the entire look. I'm not crazy with the color you chose either.
Some of us are working with this type of pine with the frustrating inconsistencies in grain and density. My next step is to get away from it and move on to better cuts.
For the "awful" pieces, I use two coats of pre-stain conditioner, making sure to combat blotchiness. Then as many coats as it takes of gel stain for them not to look awful. :) Then top coat several coats. It's a pain in the ass.
After I'm done with the next few projects, I'm moving on to higher quality wood. Looking forward to being able to try oil/wax matte products like Rubio Monocoat, etc.
I just came here to say the one you called awful is Actually the best looking one and looks nice and rustic and like natural wood! I’m looking to achieve that look exactly.
Nobody uses liquid wax applied with wet sandpaper anymore. That's what I used on my 3-piece project in HS wood shop in 1973 and the finish is still deep and smooth today. Yes, I still have my little book rack... somewhere.
For stain, my favorite way to do it is add stain to the polyurethane and apply as a single finish. Comes out a lot more evenly. I usually apply it with a foam brush.
You mix your stain and poly together? What percentage mix and do you do multiple layers?
@@MegaShitfactory yup. Generally, I add just a little then mix it and use a test piece. If I need to go darker, I add a little more. It usually doesn't take much and one coat generally does it. If I need a bit more durability, I'll go over it with clear polly.
That’s exactly what minwax polyshades does with that product.
You really kept your video moving. Well done. Thanks!
Ooh I love those 3M sanding disks they're so nice 🤩
I like to go for method 3 but, swap the polyurethane for a tung oil finish and make it super glossy with a variable speed orbital polisher and wood wax
Well explained and demonstrated. thank you. Appreciate the tips and tricks. God bless!
Very nice finish with the third one
Thanks for the video. I like the look of the water based stain. The last method looked plain.
I feel like you used different species of wood to accentuate the difference. Different techniques in different species of wood are a must to achieve good results.
The best and easiest method for me is using water base product with synthetic brush for clear coat after using stain applied with cloth. This is the one method I have had the least correction work to do when I am finished for me that is what it’s all about. I find most people do not see the difference and if finish is real smooth to the touch they are happy.
I used Behr stain and poly in one on a recent office unit. 2 coats and your done. Looks and feels great
Thank you for this video. I learned a lot. Unfortunately, I made a mistake. I applied a water-based stain and added an oil stain after, Not knowing it was bad to mix the two products together. Surprisingly, my wood looks good. However, it’s drying slowly. What should I do now? Thank you for your help.
Hi Anna, it's fine to apply an oil stain over top of a water stain. If it's still feeling tacky after 48 hrs, you may have some excess stain that needs to be wiped off with a clean, dry rag. Also, make sure you're letting the stain dry in a room temperature environment.
I think the ugly pine looked great, but I am in the minority on this. I do appreciate the ability to stain and conceal or de-louden the knotty look with cheep lumber, make decent casework for resale real estate and look like im Ethan Allen, however. I appreciate this. I was of the mindset that the only option was to paint, which can be cool in the short run but often what is cool now is an ugly meme when it comes time to sell a house.
When I sand, I use a tack cloth with paint thinner as I find this opens the grain better and can get more dust out than vacuuming. I also use this method between coats of urethane and sand with steel wool. Need to Make sure the paint thinner dries between coats but it does so quickly.
I just started working on a dining table project and I'm thinking about maple plywood as the top. I'm testing out various stains to see what I like best. I have collected lots of stains on markdown over the last two years. I can confidently say this, HomeDepots products are terrible Behr paint doesn't hold up, Varethane stains are very weak, and Varathane finishes don't protect very well at all.
You know what help really drive your point - taking pieces of wood with completely different grain and quality. If you take a look before any stain is applied, you can already see the result. While some of the things said are true, the results illustrated are manipulated and would not pass any review from my perspective. You can also polish construction lumber with 2000 grit, still wouldn't change the quality of the wood itself or stop it from bowing months later.
I really liked the Gelstain look. Would love this effect on my board game table.
Some nice tips, but you really need to start your finish choices with how and where your project will be used. If your project is going to be used outdoors, in wet areas like kitchens or bathrooms, or be exposed to harsher cleaning chemicals then water based is out. They are made to be easier to apply and clean up, and with lower VOC's, but they don't offer the surface protection that oil base and solvent based polyurethane finishes do. Newer water based finishes are slowly being created for the industrial market that have better protection characteristics, but they are very pricey and it will be years before a similar product makes it's way into box and hardware stores. Also to get a smoother finish I typically use a sanding sealer. It's applied on top of stained wood at about 3 mils thick and then sands easily with 220-320 grit sanding sponges to create a much smoother and level base for your top coat.
Some people like the grainy look , I made a coffee table out of pine , I love the grain and few knots in the top .
I started using General Finishes Arm R Seal for my top coats and it is so easy to work with. Highly recommended
If you use a foam brush to apply Minwax PreStain conditioner, make sure to pour the PreStain Conditioner in a separate container. Something in the foam brush will contaminate the product causing it to gel up. I use Minwax PreStain conditioner a lot and discovered this by accident. At first I didn’t realize what happened to it and even spoke to the tech guys at Minwax who couldn’t figure it out. Finally, by process of elimination and experimention, I discovered it was the foam brush that causing the product to turn into a waxy gel.