How To Install Butcher Block Countertops || I Screwed Up a Little
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 เม.ย. 2024
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Most of us are shedding tears😭 when we see the price of 3/4 plywood. Jason uses it for one time use template😜 The tube life is GOOD🤣
Birch ply as well
The cheap Chinese poplar I could understand but BIRCH??
after giving us all the options for buying a butcher block what does he do he goes and has his custom-made. Obviously the easy option for all of us. The youtube millionaire gets us again.
Where are you buying your plywood 🪵?
What are you currently paying for a sheet of 3/4 birch sanded ?
I just bought some on Thursday
3/4 butcher uv1 side $$42.50
3/4 sanded 7 ply (lighter) $37.50
The heavier 13 ply I believe was $34
1/6 poplar s4s 1.75 LF
Total $97 add $7.76 taxes
$101.75 total
This is from the local lumber yard . Quite a few around here .
His family prolly owns 100,000 acres of forest land with an awful lot of white oak trees on it.
Protip, get an XL bearing for your router and route the top right to the sink. This will let the wood over lap the sink perfectly. You really want the wood to hang over an undermount. So there is no area for water to pool. This also gives to a place to hide a bead of silicone. You need a bearing that's like 3/8 to 1/2 inch bigger than the flush cutter.
Great idea!!! Thanks!
You should have gotten your shop supervisor to tighten up the miter bolts. He could have stood up doing it. 😊
When we are installing butcher blocks we always collect all the cut outs from hobs and sinks and turn them into cutting blocks and give them back to the customer.
Another great video. My son and I start our Saturday morning watching each week. Great way to learn a lot and get some inspiration to get something done this weekend. Sound effects are awesome too! Thanks for all the great content.
I love the irony of using festool where you're paying extra for excellent dust collection that is very easy and convenient, and then not using it. And the dust collection helps keep your bits and blades cooler with the constant airflow, so you really should be using it, if only for that, and not to save your lungs.
Haha, glad to see others don't always have perfect builds! Hiding mistakes is the real test. 😆
I would have gone with assembly in two parts... using a long 1/4 to 3/8" hardwood spline joint, but leaving about an inch at the face so the edge does not get messed up. It would allow you to slip it into place in the room and adjust, unlike the issue with the dominos. A few strategic pocket holes on the underside to pull it into place and permit the glue to dry.
Jason, the Domino XL Quick Connectors are absolutely brilliant for connecting large-scale miters like that.
I use them all the time on butcher block miters and they pull the joint together like King Kong. Would love to see you use and review them in a future video to expose more makers to this amazing connector system.
BTW: I use the same system (much smaller, of course) with my Domino 500, and it is a toy by comparison.
Love the humor with the kitchen blocks 😂😂😂
The section of butcher block countertop is the only thing we kept when we renovated our kitchen. Thanks for the tips here!
Only 4 minutes in and already loving it. A few years ago I made a 66" X 40" hard maple butcher block top for our dining room table. It is gorgeous. But, I vowed - never again. Recently, I replaced my main assembly bench and topped it with an "island sized" Birch butcher block from Wayfair (on sale). It is flat, smooth, heavy and looks great. I sealed it with several coats of 100% tung oil - nothing sticks to it. Thx.
the sound effects really help with the immersion
Totally been there! So glad you were down to showcase your mistakes. Makes growing into this hobby more inviting!
Thanks for the great video. I plan on putting butcher block counters in our beach condo this year and wondered how the 45 degree attachment worked. Thanks for educating me on that. All the best.
Jason, you did an amazing job on your "Butcherblock Countertops" for your laundry room and they look exceptionally awesome!
Your superior level of Craftsmanship shines through on all of your projects with the occasional error which shows that we are all human!
Well done, Jason!
Discovered the IKEA butcher block counter tops years ago. A good choice. I built my SawStop job site stand (their gravity feed stand is way too large for my small shop) using a Menards pre-made hardwood composite/butcher block board for the stand top. Easy.
they used to be full butcher block though, now just veneer.
What I learned in this video: make shallower flush trim template cuts, with the miter joints first. If you screw up the miter joint, you still have enough material left to make it again.
The struggle with building an enclosure around and over your washer and dryer is that the size of the machines is not consistent between brands over time. When I replaced the units in our home, the new ones were 3/4" taller and would not fit under the counter any longer. Another thing to consider is you are now locked into picking front loading machines.
Just installed IKEA’s butcher block. Works well but the surface does have small knots. I fixed them myself but I called IKEA and they would have sent a replacement to my home. They were also dry and easily dented. Fixed easily and applied Tung oil. Seems fine now. Can’t beat the price.
DO NOT give IKEA business,they are founding fathers off 15min cities 😡
I didn’t know IKEA sells butcher block countertops until this video. Are any of them true solid wood butcher block or just particle board with a butcher block veneer?
They sell both
@@beerdedwanderer Nice. I assumed they only sold the veneer version. Now I just need to see where they’re sourced, since IKEA is effectively decimating old-growth forests in Romania.
@@RyanWattersRyanWatters IKEA, Home Depot etc all have solid wood butcher block tops for very reasonable prices. Just look for it to say its solid wood vs veneered...they'll cost a little more but honestly I've found its only like 10-15% more expensive
Love the video! I use the “shop vac trick” a lot when gluing up cracks or missed seams… One idea to try before you switch to paper flossing is to add tape to the crack on the end grain as well as some on the bottom side where you’re using the vacuum. I move the tape on the bottom around as I move the vacuum . That way air can’t come in through any part of the crack except where you applied the glue. Hope this saves you(or anyone for that matter) more time in the future than it took to read this comment!
Looking great can’t wait to see it finished
Jason, I noticed the well worn shop hammer you used to put the dominoes in. There must be a story! I still use my dad's hammer, an old blonde wood handle claw, almost every day. It still works great. Love your work and videos.
Thanks! I've got a butcher block install in a tiny kitchen coming up. I learned a bit more than I thought I knew. ;)
i like the free mind finding the way out awkward situation, great tips ! really enjoying the work and the finishing, cheers
Using a whole sheet of 3/4 birch ply as a template……mad lad.
Floor & Decor has a great selection of butcher block for very reasonable prices.
Those turned out really nice looking.
18:00 perfect case for the lamello zeta p2 and some clamex connectors.
Assemble, then lock the connectors from underneath once you’ve laid down your butcher blocks.
Great looking project.
Nice job! I would not have glued the butcher block mitre joint but rather only used the clamps which could be adjusted(tightned) as needed and allow for unlikely removal in future. This is one of the best practicle laundry room ever. Ray
We call them plumbing fixtures XD
Love the butcher block
I'm excited to see the Benchmade knife, an Oregon star!
Hey Jason. For the miter, I'd recommend doing a spline. All in all it looks great.
This was a great video, but I must confess, when you started talking about building a butcher block, I ALmost fast forwarded the video. I should have known better, I don’t know why I didn’t see it coming, but I learned my lesson. 😅 I am contemplating changing my island to butcher block and you definitely gave me some confidence since I have to cut an opening for my stove. Mine is a little more complex because I have a small section for eating, and a complex cut at the junction where stove meets counter, not going to bore you any ,more. But, thanks! 😅
The last time I spread my crack apart and put some glue in it the ER doctor was very disappointed.
😂😂
😂😂😂
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣tmi🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Why do I always feel like a second grader in Mr Jason’s shop class….? Oh well, it brings back some cherished memories. Nice job!
Looks awesome. I love the color you used on the butcher block.
Your Foley artist is amazing!
Use French cleats on the bottom of the counter over the washer and dryer. One across the back and a little one on the wall side to keep it tight. Easy to quickly remove and access the dryer and water hoses to clean up the mess when the wife decides she can clean the water filter on that front load washer. Ask me how I know 😂
Yeah I've had too much trouble with my washers and dryers over the years to lock them in like all that. Of course, with the way he blows through money, Jason is a lot more well off than me but it's still gonna be a PITA when something goes wrong.
Yep, removing those is gonna be a pain one day.
gran trabajo!!! me encanta
Another great tutorial. Thanks.
I used Boos finished maple countertops worked out beautifully
Looking good.
Awesome vid
You legitimately seem cool at parties.
I do the laundry in my family. I can’t imagine what I would do with all that beautiful space!
Rubio is an amazing product. It's very expensive, but man... it worked amazingly on my butcherblock as well. I also coated it with a ceramic coating. Which is also REALLY expensive.
He deserves it. Love the entertainment
Hindsight is 20/10 - better than perfect vision.
Watch out for the box store acacia countertops. They're mostly sapwood that can be dented with your thumbnail. Mine was also full of sanding swirls and low spots that you can't see through the plastic film until you unwrap it at home. I ended up sanding and leveling mine because I'm an idiot who does things the hard way. Plus, the price was decent and I wasn't confident I'd get a better one if I exchanged it. Mine is for a bar table that won't see much hard use. I'd never want it for a kitchen counter though because of how soft the sapwood is.
I've never tried it myself, however you could try the Invis Mx system that allows for invisible joinery. It uses a magnetic drill driver and captured screw to pull the joint togetger.
Not sure if it is beefy enough to pull together the butcher block, but it is a really cool tool.
I loved the buy your own skit :D Its hilariously true
use 4" strips of 1/4 or 1/2 ply as template material. Scribe in the back, the the sides. THEN use clamps to set the front reveal. CA glue it all together with some cross bracing.
I have 11 walnut counters in my home. All with no trim or splash. all scribed in this way.
Thinking that miter would have been a good use-case for a Lamello Zeta P2 + Clamex connectors. Join the miter in place with less trouble and can tighten the joint with the same system. It's projects like this that help me justify tool purchases 😁
I've had great luck with butcher block from Lowes, etc. Island size (3'x6') cut to 30" deep + standing desk frame = easy peasy lemon squeezy
I bought an 8 ft piece years ago from Lowe’s. After finishing a couple of ways I landed on real tung oil combined with a citrus product that carries the oil down into the pores. Works great. I no longer have to refinish as often as I did previously
Nice work
I love the smell of sawdust in the morning. It smells woody.
😂😂😂 glad you showed the bering coming off I've made the same mistake more then once. It's called being born hard headed 😅
I made a butcher block for my washer dryer. And yeah it took me about a month 😅😅 It came out pretty nice tho
To solve the connection problem at the miter joint I think you could have used Festool Domino Connector system FV 32. I've used it with great success on many projects.
Have you thought about the access to the washer and dryer when there is a problem with them? They are HHEAVY and lifting them out of the cabinet will not come without much difficulty. Also the access to the shutoff valves for the washer seems to be a bit tight to operate them after and to access the flex hoses from the valves to the washer. Also how do you install the plumbing for the sink? I seem to remember that you did not have access to the bottom of the butcher block from under the sink? Just want to know what your thoughts are.
Nice Job
If you have access in the corner underneath, use some clamps and blocks and use them to use pocket screws
Great video and terrific looking end result! When does the team get to work on improvements at Craig's place?
Dust collection is like no other
Based on the comments I'm glad I'm not the only one scratching my head over a 3/4 ply template. 1/4" mdf would be splurging, cardboard and sanding to the line more like it for me.
17:14 spiders gonna love living back there 🕷️
😳 whut?
Use Zip Bolts.. much easier using a drill with a bit , rather then a small wrench to tighten the joint. Good job, looks great,
your intro music riff is just way too fine !!!!!
I was curious how you vented the dryer and hooked it up. Also I have notice that most farm sink installs have now added a catch ledge at the bottom of the sink out of quartz or marble to grab the water if it runs /drips down the sink face not destroying the wood below
Hahahah, loved the saw sounds
when sizing enclosures for appliances, realize that (yes, some years in future) replacing the washer/dryer might require a wider cabinet. Replacing the cabinet frame is one thing, but ending up with a butcher block 1/2" short would be annoying, so I'd make the appliance cover block 1/2~1" longer than currently needed. [Appliances are usually made with compatibility of dimension--particularly width and height--at an industry standard, BUT there can be small variances that will drive the future you nuts.]
I kind of feel like a 45° interlaced pattern would probably be a better looking, if not more complex, way to do the corner joint.
Nice❤
if you ever do a mitre that size again in a tight fitting space,try the dominoes at 45 deg to the edge..that way the two faces go together as a straight push,works a treat. :)
It's funny because you literally have a podcast with the guy who sells the answer for your miter joint, the Lamello. 😉 You can even hear Keith Johnson saying it. 🤣
I love the fact that he pointed out the chewed up part of the joint and then the camera is conveniently placed so that we aren't all staring at it in the next shot....let's face it everyone would have completely ignored Jason and been lost in the gap
Nice.
Looking at the Canadian IKEA, they only sell veneered particle board butcher block countertops here.
Jason your plywood template is way nicer than my countertop. Let me know if/when youre going to pitch it. Im digging in your garbage! Signed, victim of so and sos economics.
The counter over the washer is cool. Just wondering how it will hold up with a big unbalanced load like a blanket.
About the corner. Couldn't you do like bow tie inlays on the bottom of the butcher block pieces? That way you can put the larger one in first and then slot in the other one with the bowtl ties as registration marks? Idk 🤷♂️ ❤
Trend ZIPBOLT, that’s what you needed.
19:57 amazing sound effects ❤
I have actually used dental floss to pull glue into cracks. Many long years ago!
Ok ok I clicked on CA glue on your list lolol I got the router lol
You use a StrekkFisk to tie the two parts together.
Jason must have better super glue than anyone else in the world. Mine pops off every time.
I use biscuit joints for worktops, much more forgiving.
Great video! Just wondering about your thoughts on bamboo for butcher block?
Hi Jason I loved the counter top but if you got a butchers block of total length of both pieces and then put one at right angles to the other would they both line up better.????
I plan to use butcher block for my U shaped bar work counter. I have a live edge piece for the bar top itself. What finish is the most waterproof, stain proof, and cleanable? The middle of the U will have a sink.
My son was a cabinetmaker and had a saying you might be able to use. It goes like this, “ Never show children or fools unfinished work “ !
Great build as always, but are the outlets going to be inside the cabinets that are sitting on top of the butcher block?🤔
Haven't caught a video in a while. You been hitting the gym? Looking jacked.
Nice jigsaw sound effects 😄
If you were going to make a mistake that was the spot. Lucky. Looks great 👍.
Keith wants you to use the Lamello Clamex on that miter.
I made the mistake when making our U shaped kitchen butcher block countertops. I was under a pressure to make all interior remodeling before labour day. And I butt-joined them and the other way around, so now a have the cross cut section exposed from the breakfast bar side. I was to worried to cut 45 with a circular saw, I tried my best to have 90 edge as is. Every time I look at it, it bugs me.
No NO No to Ikea butcherblock!!! Lowe's has some beautiful butcherblock countertops. I love using Odie's oil to finish mine.
the guy who owns odie's is a real piece of work, there was a big dustup because he apparently hates garage woodworkers, especially those who use Rubio and wear flat brim hats 🤣🤣🤣