after giving us all the options for buying a butcher block what does he do he goes and has his custom-made. Obviously the easy option for all of us. The youtube millionaire gets us again.
Where are you buying your plywood 🪵? What are you currently paying for a sheet of 3/4 birch sanded ? I just bought some on Thursday 3/4 butcher uv1 side $$42.50 3/4 sanded 7 ply (lighter) $37.50 The heavier 13 ply I believe was $34 1/6 poplar s4s 1.75 LF Total $97 add $7.76 taxes $101.75 total
Did a similar countertop in a high humidity bathroom. Large 5’ by 10’ L-shape with miter corner. I used 3 coats Bona HD satin, both top and bottom to seal. Worked out great, no wood movement, super durable finish.
Protip, get an XL bearing for your router and route the top right to the sink. This will let the wood over lap the sink perfectly. You really want the wood to hang over an undermount. So there is no area for water to pool. This also gives to a place to hide a bead of silicone. You need a bearing that's like 3/8 to 1/2 inch bigger than the flush cutter.
i just refinishing by walnut island . used waterlox tung oil the first time. it sucked . i used flat oil based poly this time it turned out so much better .
Watch out for the box store acacia countertops. They're mostly sapwood that can be dented with your thumbnail. Mine was also full of sanding swirls and low spots that you can't see through the plastic film until you unwrap it at home. I ended up sanding and leveling mine because I'm an idiot who does things the hard way. Plus, the price was decent and I wasn't confident I'd get a better one if I exchanged it. Mine is for a bar table that won't see much hard use. I'd never want it for a kitchen counter though because of how soft the sapwood is.
18:00 perfect case for the lamello zeta p2 and some clamex connectors. Assemble, then lock the connectors from underneath once you’ve laid down your butcher blocks.
Thanks for the great video. I plan on putting butcher block counters in our beach condo this year and wondered how the 45 degree attachment worked. Thanks for educating me on that. All the best.
Another great video. My son and I start our Saturday morning watching each week. Great way to learn a lot and get some inspiration to get something done this weekend. Sound effects are awesome too! Thanks for all the great content.
Love the video! I use the “shop vac trick” a lot when gluing up cracks or missed seams… One idea to try before you switch to paper flossing is to add tape to the crack on the end grain as well as some on the bottom side where you’re using the vacuum. I move the tape on the bottom around as I move the vacuum . That way air can’t come in through any part of the crack except where you applied the glue. Hope this saves you(or anyone for that matter) more time in the future than it took to read this comment!
Only 4 minutes in and already loving it. A few years ago I made a 66" X 40" hard maple butcher block top for our dining room table. It is gorgeous. But, I vowed - never again. Recently, I replaced my main assembly bench and topped it with an "island sized" Birch butcher block from Wayfair (on sale). It is flat, smooth, heavy and looks great. I sealed it with several coats of 100% tung oil - nothing sticks to it. Thx.
This was a great video, but I must confess, when you started talking about building a butcher block, I ALmost fast forwarded the video. I should have known better, I don’t know why I didn’t see it coming, but I learned my lesson. 😅 I am contemplating changing my island to butcher block and you definitely gave me some confidence since I have to cut an opening for my stove. Mine is a little more complex because I have a small section for eating, and a complex cut at the junction where stove meets counter, not going to bore you any ,more. But, thanks! 😅
Jason, you did an amazing job on your "Butcherblock Countertops" for your laundry room and they look exceptionally awesome! Your superior level of Craftsmanship shines through on all of your projects with the occasional error which shows that we are all human! Well done, Jason!
Haha, glad to see others don't always have perfect builds! Hiding mistakes is the real test. 😆 I would have gone with assembly in two parts... using a long 1/4 to 3/8" hardwood spline joint, but leaving about an inch at the face so the edge does not get messed up. It would allow you to slip it into place in the room and adjust, unlike the issue with the dominos. A few strategic pocket holes on the underside to pull it into place and permit the glue to dry.
When we are installing butcher blocks we always collect all the cut outs from hobs and sinks and turn them into cutting blocks and give them back to the customer.
I was curious how you vented the dryer and hooked it up. Also I have notice that most farm sink installs have now added a catch ledge at the bottom of the sink out of quartz or marble to grab the water if it runs /drips down the sink face not destroying the wood below
I've never tried it myself, however you could try the Invis Mx system that allows for invisible joinery. It uses a magnetic drill driver and captured screw to pull the joint togetger. Not sure if it is beefy enough to pull together the butcher block, but it is a really cool tool.
Jason, I noticed the well worn shop hammer you used to put the dominoes in. There must be a story! I still use my dad's hammer, an old blonde wood handle claw, almost every day. It still works great. Love your work and videos.
Discovered the IKEA butcher block counter tops years ago. A good choice. I built my SawStop job site stand (their gravity feed stand is way too large for my small shop) using a Menards pre-made hardwood composite/butcher block board for the stand top. Easy.
Just installed IKEA’s butcher block. Works well but the surface does have small knots. I fixed them myself but I called IKEA and they would have sent a replacement to my home. They were also dry and easily dented. Fixed easily and applied Tung oil. Seems fine now. Can’t beat the price.
I didn’t know IKEA sells butcher block countertops until this video. Are any of them true solid wood butcher block or just particle board with a butcher block veneer?
@@beerdedwanderer Nice. I assumed they only sold the veneer version. Now I just need to see where they’re sourced, since IKEA is effectively decimating old-growth forests in Romania.
@@RyanWattersRyanWatters IKEA, Home Depot etc all have solid wood butcher block tops for very reasonable prices. Just look for it to say its solid wood vs veneered...they'll cost a little more but honestly I've found its only like 10-15% more expensive
Nice job! I would not have glued the butcher block mitre joint but rather only used the clamps which could be adjusted(tightned) as needed and allow for unlikely removal in future. This is one of the best practicle laundry room ever. Ray
Jason, the Domino XL Quick Connectors are absolutely brilliant for connecting large-scale miters like that. I use them all the time on butcher block miters and they pull the joint together like King Kong. Would love to see you use and review them in a future video to expose more makers to this amazing connector system. BTW: I use the same system (much smaller, of course) with my Domino 500, and it is a toy by comparison.
I'm going through the same thing. do I secure the seem outside and carry it in as one piece or do it in place? That router bit was painful to watch. They do make a much better version of those corner clamps that tighten with a screw driver. you did a really nice job. Looks fantastic
The struggle with building an enclosure around and over your washer and dryer is that the size of the machines is not consistent between brands over time. When I replaced the units in our home, the new ones were 3/4" taller and would not fit under the counter any longer. Another thing to consider is you are now locked into picking front loading machines.
I don't know how laundry is done at your house but inevitably large amounts of counter space is necessary for the sorting and holding folded laundry. My wife frequently runs out of counter space to hold folded laundry as she folds it into piles. So in your example a lot of your deep butcher block is taken up by the cabinets. I would have started the cabinets about a foot higher to allow use of all that butcher block counter space. All that space would also make it easier to use for the ocsssional laundry pre-treating or even ocassional use as an ironing board.
Thank you I have been dreading making my own. Wish you lived close I have no help redoing a kitchen. I'm going to get it done, if it's the last thing I do ..😂
Have you thought about the access to the washer and dryer when there is a problem with them? They are HHEAVY and lifting them out of the cabinet will not come without much difficulty. Also the access to the shutoff valves for the washer seems to be a bit tight to operate them after and to access the flex hoses from the valves to the washer. Also how do you install the plumbing for the sink? I seem to remember that you did not have access to the bottom of the butcher block from under the sink? Just want to know what your thoughts are.
Great video. I'm currently having Acacia butcher block installed... well it would be done if the guy doing the work on my kitchen would show up, but I digress. He did a great job cutting the 45 degree angel. He attached them with the dumb bell things that I already had (not sure he had ever seen or used them before). Did the glue as well. Filled the seam with Miniwax bondo... probably should not have, but there were spots on the top he "had" to fill with it as well and of course they stick out like a sore thumb. My question is, the only other place the BB will actually be attached is the sink (that I'm hoping he cut out properly). Seems odd that he's not screwing it in anywhere else... each side is 8 feet long and the non sink side has no cut outs. It's so heavy, I can't imagine it moving, but do you think I should have him secure it better?
use 4" strips of 1/4 or 1/2 ply as template material. Scribe in the back, the the sides. THEN use clamps to set the front reveal. CA glue it all together with some cross bracing. I have 11 walnut counters in my home. All with no trim or splash. all scribed in this way.
Hi Will you ever have plans for a 48" bathroom vanity Shaker style with drawers on the left hand side? That would be so great cause I want to make one. You do great work I love watching you, you are so crazy but so fun and informative I've learned a lot from you and your show. ..... Are you in the good old USA or Canada??
Rubio is an amazing product. It's very expensive, but man... it worked amazingly on my butcherblock as well. I also coated it with a ceramic coating. Which is also REALLY expensive.
What I learned in this video: make shallower flush trim template cuts, with the miter joints first. If you screw up the miter joint, you still have enough material left to make it again.
I have been using a washing machine/dryer combo very much like yours for several years. I think that you might have a bit of a problem with the washing machine clearance tolerances because when it get to the spin cycles there can be quite a bit of vibration. It looks like you are giving 1/4-3/8” clearance. My machines are Mielle, so pretty smooth operating……until the spin cycle. Believe me that the machine needs room to shake, rattle and shake!!!!! Dental floss works really well for getting glue into those cracks.
Also he should used the valves to shut off water after each use of washer (that is why you add the valves for safety so you don't worry about swimming in your laundry room 😅)
Thinking that miter would have been a good use-case for a Lamello Zeta P2 + Clamex connectors. Join the miter in place with less trouble and can tighten the joint with the same system. It's projects like this that help me justify tool purchases 😁
Looking quite nice. Did code not allow for the hookup height to be fully in the uppers, as that would seem easier while moving the plumbing anyway? Or would that create a drainage issue for the washer?
Hi Jason I loved the counter top but if you got a butchers block of total length of both pieces and then put one at right angles to the other would they both line up better.????
I bought an 8 ft piece years ago from Lowe’s. After finishing a couple of ways I landed on real tung oil combined with a citrus product that carries the oil down into the pores. Works great. I no longer have to refinish as often as I did previously
Based on the comments I'm glad I'm not the only one scratching my head over a 3/4 ply template. 1/4" mdf would be splurging, cardboard and sanding to the line more like it for me.
I'm not sure if it would work, but in response to the alignment issue, would a half lap miter joint be a potential solution? It seems like you'd have the option to either set it down or slide it into place, rather than having to figure out the dominos. I'm basing that on assembling stretcher bars for canvases, so there may be other issues to consider in terms of countertops.
About the corner. Couldn't you do like bow tie inlays on the bottom of the butcher block pieces? That way you can put the larger one in first and then slot in the other one with the bowtl ties as registration marks? Idk 🤷♂️ ❤
To solve the connection problem at the miter joint I think you could have used Festool Domino Connector system FV 32. I've used it with great success on many projects.
So i do this for a living, and are wondering. What is the expansion rate on your butcher block? You have a solid top on your corner cabinet. No concern for unevenly dry out for the wood?
Kind of off topic, but what's the go to literature that any aspiring and overly motivated woodworker needs to read? Any must haves that need to be in any woodshop? Im trying to start growing my general knowledge about woodworking past what TH-cam can teach me. Thanks in advance
It's funny because you literally have a podcast with the guy who sells the answer for your miter joint, the Lamello. 😉 You can even hear Keith Johnson saying it. 🤣
On the 45 degree mitre, can you run your dominos parallel to the sink wall? So 45 degrees to the mitre rather than 90 degrees to the mitre? Then you can slide the sink piece along the wall.
if you ever do a mitre that size again in a tight fitting space,try the dominoes at 45 deg to the edge..that way the two faces go together as a straight push,works a treat. :)
as an appliance repair technician and you call for service on your washing machine I would walk in there look at it and tell you to dismantle your whole jail that you put the machines into before I can service it and maybe come back another day. it's fine to put wood over top of it but you did not leave enough room for the machines to move as the washer spins at 2400 RPMs. it would have been better to have it so you could easily remove the top above the appliances.
Use French cleats on the bottom of the counter over the washer and dryer. One across the back and a little one on the wall side to keep it tight. Easy to quickly remove and access the dryer and water hoses to clean up the mess when the wife decides she can clean the water filter on that front load washer. Ask me how I know 😂
Yeah I've had too much trouble with my washers and dryers over the years to lock them in like all that. Of course, with the way he blows through money, Jason is a lot more well off than me but it's still gonna be a PITA when something goes wrong.
So what do you do with the plywood template after you're done? Also, what plywood are you using because $$$. What I need for the projects I've done are speedy. It hurts.
Most of us are shedding tears😭 when we see the price of 3/4 plywood. Jason uses it for one time use template😜 The tube life is GOOD🤣
Birch ply as well
The cheap Chinese poplar I could understand but BIRCH??
after giving us all the options for buying a butcher block what does he do he goes and has his custom-made. Obviously the easy option for all of us. The youtube millionaire gets us again.
Where are you buying your plywood 🪵?
What are you currently paying for a sheet of 3/4 birch sanded ?
I just bought some on Thursday
3/4 butcher uv1 side $$42.50
3/4 sanded 7 ply (lighter) $37.50
The heavier 13 ply I believe was $34
1/6 poplar s4s 1.75 LF
Total $97 add $7.76 taxes
$101.75 total
This is from the local lumber yard . Quite a few around here .
His family prolly owns 100,000 acres of forest land with an awful lot of white oak trees on it.
Did a similar countertop in a high humidity bathroom. Large 5’ by 10’ L-shape with miter corner.
I used 3 coats Bona HD satin, both top and bottom to seal.
Worked out great, no wood movement, super durable finish.
Protip, get an XL bearing for your router and route the top right to the sink. This will let the wood over lap the sink perfectly. You really want the wood to hang over an undermount. So there is no area for water to pool. This also gives to a place to hide a bead of silicone. You need a bearing that's like 3/8 to 1/2 inch bigger than the flush cutter.
Great idea!!! Thanks!
i just refinishing by walnut island . used waterlox tung oil the first time. it sucked . i used flat oil based poly this time it turned out so much better .
Watch out for the box store acacia countertops. They're mostly sapwood that can be dented with your thumbnail. Mine was also full of sanding swirls and low spots that you can't see through the plastic film until you unwrap it at home. I ended up sanding and leveling mine because I'm an idiot who does things the hard way. Plus, the price was decent and I wasn't confident I'd get a better one if I exchanged it. Mine is for a bar table that won't see much hard use. I'd never want it for a kitchen counter though because of how soft the sapwood is.
18:00 perfect case for the lamello zeta p2 and some clamex connectors.
Assemble, then lock the connectors from underneath once you’ve laid down your butcher blocks.
I think the clamping force of the Lamello would be less than that of the dog bone connectors.
Thanks for the great video. I plan on putting butcher block counters in our beach condo this year and wondered how the 45 degree attachment worked. Thanks for educating me on that. All the best.
Another great video. My son and I start our Saturday morning watching each week. Great way to learn a lot and get some inspiration to get something done this weekend. Sound effects are awesome too! Thanks for all the great content.
The section of butcher block countertop is the only thing we kept when we renovated our kitchen. Thanks for the tips here!
Love the video! I use the “shop vac trick” a lot when gluing up cracks or missed seams… One idea to try before you switch to paper flossing is to add tape to the crack on the end grain as well as some on the bottom side where you’re using the vacuum. I move the tape on the bottom around as I move the vacuum . That way air can’t come in through any part of the crack except where you applied the glue. Hope this saves you(or anyone for that matter) more time in the future than it took to read this comment!
i like the free mind finding the way out awkward situation, great tips ! really enjoying the work and the finishing, cheers
Looks nice. What I did under my washer & dryer was to build cabinets with drawers. Anyone can always use more storage.
Only 4 minutes in and already loving it. A few years ago I made a 66" X 40" hard maple butcher block top for our dining room table. It is gorgeous. But, I vowed - never again. Recently, I replaced my main assembly bench and topped it with an "island sized" Birch butcher block from Wayfair (on sale). It is flat, smooth, heavy and looks great. I sealed it with several coats of 100% tung oil - nothing sticks to it. Thx.
This was a great video, but I must confess, when you started talking about building a butcher block, I ALmost fast forwarded the video. I should have known better, I don’t know why I didn’t see it coming, but I learned my lesson. 😅 I am contemplating changing my island to butcher block and you definitely gave me some confidence since I have to cut an opening for my stove. Mine is a little more complex because I have a small section for eating, and a complex cut at the junction where stove meets counter, not going to bore you any ,more. But, thanks! 😅
Jason, you did an amazing job on your "Butcherblock Countertops" for your laundry room and they look exceptionally awesome!
Your superior level of Craftsmanship shines through on all of your projects with the occasional error which shows that we are all human!
Well done, Jason!
Totally been there! So glad you were down to showcase your mistakes. Makes growing into this hobby more inviting!
the sound effects really help with the immersion
Haha, glad to see others don't always have perfect builds! Hiding mistakes is the real test. 😆
I would have gone with assembly in two parts... using a long 1/4 to 3/8" hardwood spline joint, but leaving about an inch at the face so the edge does not get messed up. It would allow you to slip it into place in the room and adjust, unlike the issue with the dominos. A few strategic pocket holes on the underside to pull it into place and permit the glue to dry.
Thanks! I've got a butcher block install in a tiny kitchen coming up. I learned a bit more than I thought I knew. ;)
When we are installing butcher blocks we always collect all the cut outs from hobs and sinks and turn them into cutting blocks and give them back to the customer.
I was curious how you vented the dryer and hooked it up. Also I have notice that most farm sink installs have now added a catch ledge at the bottom of the sink out of quartz or marble to grab the water if it runs /drips down the sink face not destroying the wood below
Hey Jason. For the miter, I'd recommend doing a spline. All in all it looks great.
❤WOW❤ Huge Fan of this video for so many reasons! 🎉
I used Boos finished maple countertops worked out beautifully
I've never tried it myself, however you could try the Invis Mx system that allows for invisible joinery. It uses a magnetic drill driver and captured screw to pull the joint togetger.
Not sure if it is beefy enough to pull together the butcher block, but it is a really cool tool.
Jason, I noticed the well worn shop hammer you used to put the dominoes in. There must be a story! I still use my dad's hammer, an old blonde wood handle claw, almost every day. It still works great. Love your work and videos.
Looks awesome. I love the color you used on the butcher block.
Discovered the IKEA butcher block counter tops years ago. A good choice. I built my SawStop job site stand (their gravity feed stand is way too large for my small shop) using a Menards pre-made hardwood composite/butcher block board for the stand top. Easy.
they used to be full butcher block though, now just veneer.
Just installed IKEA’s butcher block. Works well but the surface does have small knots. I fixed them myself but I called IKEA and they would have sent a replacement to my home. They were also dry and easily dented. Fixed easily and applied Tung oil. Seems fine now. Can’t beat the price.
DO NOT give IKEA business,they are founding fathers off 15min cities 😡
I didn’t know IKEA sells butcher block countertops until this video. Are any of them true solid wood butcher block or just particle board with a butcher block veneer?
They sell both
@@beerdedwanderer Nice. I assumed they only sold the veneer version. Now I just need to see where they’re sourced, since IKEA is effectively decimating old-growth forests in Romania.
@@RyanWattersRyanWatters IKEA, Home Depot etc all have solid wood butcher block tops for very reasonable prices. Just look for it to say its solid wood vs veneered...they'll cost a little more but honestly I've found its only like 10-15% more expensive
You should have gotten your shop supervisor to tighten up the miter bolts. He could have stood up doing it. 😊
Nice job! I would not have glued the butcher block mitre joint but rather only used the clamps which could be adjusted(tightned) as needed and allow for unlikely removal in future. This is one of the best practicle laundry room ever. Ray
Your Foley artist is amazing!
Jason, the Domino XL Quick Connectors are absolutely brilliant for connecting large-scale miters like that.
I use them all the time on butcher block miters and they pull the joint together like King Kong. Would love to see you use and review them in a future video to expose more makers to this amazing connector system.
BTW: I use the same system (much smaller, of course) with my Domino 500, and it is a toy by comparison.
I'm going through the same thing. do I secure the seem outside and carry it in as one piece or do it in place? That router bit was painful to watch. They do make a much better version of those corner clamps that tighten with a screw driver. you did a really nice job. Looks fantastic
The struggle with building an enclosure around and over your washer and dryer is that the size of the machines is not consistent between brands over time. When I replaced the units in our home, the new ones were 3/4" taller and would not fit under the counter any longer. Another thing to consider is you are now locked into picking front loading machines.
Love the humor with the kitchen blocks 😂😂😂
I’m a new fan and subscriber. Your videos are awesome. Your work is fantastic.
I don't know how laundry is done at your house but inevitably large amounts of counter space is necessary for the sorting and holding folded laundry.
My wife frequently runs out of counter space to hold folded laundry as she folds it into piles.
So in your example a lot of your deep butcher block is taken up by the cabinets. I would have started the cabinets about a foot higher to allow use of all that butcher block counter space.
All that space would also make it easier to use for the ocsssional laundry pre-treating or even ocassional use as an ironing board.
Thank you I have been dreading making my own. Wish you lived close I have no help redoing a kitchen. I'm going to get it done, if it's the last thing I do ..😂
Have you thought about the access to the washer and dryer when there is a problem with them? They are HHEAVY and lifting them out of the cabinet will not come without much difficulty. Also the access to the shutoff valves for the washer seems to be a bit tight to operate them after and to access the flex hoses from the valves to the washer. Also how do you install the plumbing for the sink? I seem to remember that you did not have access to the bottom of the butcher block from under the sink? Just want to know what your thoughts are.
Great video.
I'm currently having Acacia butcher block installed... well it would be done if the guy doing the work on my kitchen would show up, but I digress. He did a great job cutting the 45 degree angel. He attached them with the dumb bell things that I already had (not sure he had ever seen or used them before). Did the glue as well. Filled the seam with Miniwax bondo... probably should not have, but there were spots on the top he "had" to fill with it as well and of course they stick out like a sore thumb.
My question is, the only other place the BB will actually be attached is the sink (that I'm hoping he cut out properly). Seems odd that he's not screwing it in anywhere else... each side is 8 feet long and the non sink side has no cut outs.
It's so heavy, I can't imagine it moving, but do you think I should have him secure it better?
use 4" strips of 1/4 or 1/2 ply as template material. Scribe in the back, the the sides. THEN use clamps to set the front reveal. CA glue it all together with some cross bracing.
I have 11 walnut counters in my home. All with no trim or splash. all scribed in this way.
Hi Will you ever have plans for a 48" bathroom vanity Shaker style with drawers on the left hand side? That would be so great cause I want to make one. You do great work I love watching you, you are so crazy but so fun and informative I've learned a lot from you and your show. ..... Are you in the good old USA or Canada??
Rubio is an amazing product. It's very expensive, but man... it worked amazingly on my butcherblock as well. I also coated it with a ceramic coating. Which is also REALLY expensive.
Looking great can’t wait to see it finished
What I learned in this video: make shallower flush trim template cuts, with the miter joints first. If you screw up the miter joint, you still have enough material left to make it again.
I have been using a washing machine/dryer combo very much like yours for several years. I think that you might have a bit of a problem with the washing machine clearance tolerances because when it get to the spin cycles there can be quite a bit of vibration. It looks like you are giving 1/4-3/8” clearance. My machines are Mielle, so pretty smooth operating……until the spin cycle. Believe me that the machine needs room to shake, rattle and shake!!!!! Dental floss works really well for getting glue into those cracks.
Also he should used the valves to shut off water after each use of washer (that is why you add the valves for safety so you don't worry about swimming in your laundry room 😅)
Thinking that miter would have been a good use-case for a Lamello Zeta P2 + Clamex connectors. Join the miter in place with less trouble and can tighten the joint with the same system. It's projects like this that help me justify tool purchases 😁
Looking quite nice. Did code not allow for the hookup height to be fully in the uppers, as that would seem easier while moving the plumbing anyway? Or would that create a drainage issue for the washer?
Hi Jason I loved the counter top but if you got a butchers block of total length of both pieces and then put one at right angles to the other would they both line up better.????
The counter over the washer is cool. Just wondering how it will hold up with a big unbalanced load like a blanket.
I've had great luck with butcher block from Lowes, etc. Island size (3'x6') cut to 30" deep + standing desk frame = easy peasy lemon squeezy
I bought an 8 ft piece years ago from Lowe’s. After finishing a couple of ways I landed on real tung oil combined with a citrus product that carries the oil down into the pores. Works great. I no longer have to refinish as often as I did previously
Great video! Just wondering about your thoughts on bamboo for butcher block?
I do the laundry in my family. I can’t imagine what I would do with all that beautiful space!
Great build as always, but are the outlets going to be inside the cabinets that are sitting on top of the butcher block?🤔
If you have access in the corner underneath, use some clamps and blocks and use them to use pocket screws
Based on the comments I'm glad I'm not the only one scratching my head over a 3/4 ply template. 1/4" mdf would be splurging, cardboard and sanding to the line more like it for me.
I'm excited to see the Benchmade knife, an Oregon star!
Great video and terrific looking end result! When does the team get to work on improvements at Craig's place?
Floor & Decor has a great selection of butcher block for very reasonable prices.
Great mix of instruction and silly antics!
I'm not sure if it would work, but in response to the alignment issue, would a half lap miter joint be a potential solution?
It seems like you'd have the option to either set it down or slide it into place, rather than having to figure out the dominos.
I'm basing that on assembling stretcher bars for canvases, so there may be other issues to consider in terms of countertops.
What was that two part epoxy black wood filler you use and where do you get it. I can’t find it or similar
Those turned out really nice looking.
About the corner. Couldn't you do like bow tie inlays on the bottom of the butcher block pieces? That way you can put the larger one in first and then slot in the other one with the bowtl ties as registration marks? Idk 🤷♂️ ❤
Why do I always feel like a second grader in Mr Jason’s shop class….? Oh well, it brings back some cherished memories. Nice job!
Hindsight is 20/10 - better than perfect vision.
To solve the connection problem at the miter joint I think you could have used Festool Domino Connector system FV 32. I've used it with great success on many projects.
I made a butcher block for my washer dryer. And yeah it took me about a month 😅😅 It came out pretty nice tho
Use Zip Bolts.. much easier using a drill with a bit , rather then a small wrench to tighten the joint. Good job, looks great,
In the UK a lot of counter tops are joined with a mason joint.
So i do this for a living, and are wondering. What is the expansion rate on your butcher block?
You have a solid top on your corner cabinet. No concern for unevenly dry out for the wood?
Kind of off topic, but what's the go to literature that any aspiring and overly motivated woodworker needs to read? Any must haves that need to be in any woodshop? Im trying to start growing my general knowledge about woodworking past what TH-cam can teach me. Thanks in advance
😂😂😂 glad you showed the bering coming off I've made the same mistake more then once. It's called being born hard headed 😅
We call them plumbing fixtures XD
Love the butcher block
It's funny because you literally have a podcast with the guy who sells the answer for your miter joint, the Lamello. 😉 You can even hear Keith Johnson saying it. 🤣
You use a StrekkFisk to tie the two parts together.
4 minutes in and wow, check those guns!!! what time is the gun show???
🤣😂
On the 45 degree mitre, can you run your dominos parallel to the sink wall? So 45 degrees to the mitre rather than 90 degrees to the mitre? Then you can slide the sink piece along the wall.
Great looking project.
Looking at the Canadian IKEA, they only sell veneered particle board butcher block countertops here.
if you ever do a mitre that size again in a tight fitting space,try the dominoes at 45 deg to the edge..that way the two faces go together as a straight push,works a treat. :)
Using a whole sheet of 3/4 birch ply as a template……mad lad.
as an appliance repair technician and you call for service on your washing machine I would walk in there look at it and tell you to dismantle your whole jail that you put the machines into before I can service it and maybe come back another day.
it's fine to put wood over top of it but you did not leave enough room for the machines to move as the washer spins at 2400 RPMs.
it would have been better to have it so you could easily remove the top above the appliances.
Use French cleats on the bottom of the counter over the washer and dryer. One across the back and a little one on the wall side to keep it tight. Easy to quickly remove and access the dryer and water hoses to clean up the mess when the wife decides she can clean the water filter on that front load washer. Ask me how I know 😂
Yeah I've had too much trouble with my washers and dryers over the years to lock them in like all that. Of course, with the way he blows through money, Jason is a lot more well off than me but it's still gonna be a PITA when something goes wrong.
Yep, removing those is gonna be a pain one day.
Won't work in this situation as I believe Jason is putting cabinets directly on top of the counter.
You legitimately seem cool at parties.
Would teak work? I heard its great for cutting.
Can you please give a link to the product for the internal dryer vent outlet.
can you show different methods to join the butcher block countertop with using a dominion
So what do you do with the plywood template after you're done? Also, what plywood are you using because $$$. What I need for the projects I've done are speedy. It hurts.
I wonder how the washer and dryer don’t rattle that surround he built to death while in use. Maybe the front loaders or more stable than others?
Does the "dental floss" technique work with dental floss?
Is there a drawback to using a solid oak counter vs cutting and gluing back together?
If you were going to make a mistake that was the spot. Lucky. Looks great 👍.
S rabbit on each 45 and a spline drive in after in place maybe?
His laundry room is a better set up than most ppls kitchens ....hell yeah brother
As always pleasure watching your videos.. Z clip link missing…
Dude is definitely on the spectrum 19:59
I use biscuit joints for worktops, much more forgiving.
What is your preferred brand of CA glue?? Asking for a friend lol!