Thanks for making this video, Sir. I coated my seal, as per instructions, then I gently stretched it over a 3/8" socket extension, for several minutes. Then I applied it to the HP line out, per your instructions. Worked great. Thanks for a great video.
Excellent video!I recently replaced a PS pump on a 2002 Taurus 3.0 DOHC and I wasn't certain how to treat the Teflon seal so I unfortunately damaged it. I was able to find replacements at Advance auto, Dorman part #82540 and replaced the damaged one yesterday. The critical part in your video is waiting until it shrinks. That few minutes I waited made the difference between a small leak and zero leaks. Thanks again.
Thank you for the video. I also used the 3/8 inch extension like Gary below - but placed the seal and extension in hot water - seal stretched a bit easier on the extension to fit over the threads.
Thank you for posting this, it helped tremendously after I attempted this after installing a new PS pump and getting it wrong, crushing the new teflon ring beyond recognition and use. I wish I had seen your video before doing this, but all it well. I ended up using a 1/2 extension bar which stretch it out to just the right size instead of my thumbs, but still run it down the threads like you demonstrate here. Thank you for posting this!
VERY IMPORTANT - READ !!!. Teflon seals account for about 10% of all leaks. if your leak is coming from between the pipe and the fitting, the problem is the internal "O" ring inside the hose fitting. you can change the Teflon seal and the leak will still be there (don't waste your time). To stop the leak, you need to replace the hose. I bought one from Rock Auto for about $ 25.00 and stopped the leak.
The first one I ever installed was on a 2001 Mercury Sable 3.0. The instructions said to put the seal in a cup of hot water for a few minutes then stretch it over a large tapered punch until it will fit over the treads and then walk it down like in the video. The trick is to not get it stretch to big where it will almost just drop down over the treads.
If you have a hard time getting the seal,go to local HVAC supply and ask for one. HVAC uses them on evap coil liquid line connection on alot of residential equipment. Hell ask an ac man he's probably got several on his truck.
Mine worked by starting the nylon ring on to match the angle of the threads and then spin it down letting it follows the threads like tightening a nut on a bolt
Have seen many people discuss this topic in TCCA. Now I really understand the problem and its solution. Thank you. If possible, may you shoot one video for replacing the cracked break line? You have mentioned this many times during your show. Thank you
Thanks for the video! My fitting is leaking not at the pump side (outer side) of the fitting but between the fitting and the tube. Do you know what the cause of that is? The fitting is as tight as it can be but the tube in the fitting wobbles a little.
ford sells just the nut. the nut on the end has internal oring inside of it. there is also a snap ring to hold it on. you can remove the nut by cutting thro it almost all the way CAREFULLY. then use a flat screwdriver to twist it off.
I like to heat up the top of a large tapered punch with a torch and submerge the punch in hot water from the tap to cool it down to a reasonable temp. Then i just work the seal up the punch until its just large enough to drop it over the threads.
Love the videos. Your the only one out there with the nylon seal change on the power steering pump. I do have a question for you. I have 2000 Mustang GT with Power boost brakes int he mix. I have tried bleeding the system a thousand times and tried many different ways. I can hear air in the rack when hitting the stops on each end of the rack and it makes a wheering sound when I step on the brakes and the noise comes from the power boost unit. I tried everything to get the air out of the system and no luck. I have checked everything and there are no leaks anywhere that are visible, no fluid coming from anything. I had changed the timing cover due to someone breaking the tensioner pulley mounting point off. and when I put everything back together and tried bleeding the power steering and power boost I get nowhere. I did the trick back and forth withe engine off a few hundred times while pressing the brakes 3 times in between sets of five turning the wheel. I am so frustrated and getting nowhere. Do you have any suggestions on this. It would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the short novel.
The Ford/Lincoln dealer and the HELP line by Dorman sells the wrong (or a smaller size seal) that is very difficult to install without damaging it. I found this out when I purchased a power steering pressure line and a power steering pump. They came with a little larger seal that worked just right and wasn't hard to get on and no more leak. FYI. Why Ford/Lincoln came up with a different way to seal the pressure hose at the pump when we have a proven method to accomplish this in a double flare or o-ring seal is beyond me.
That is what I also thought. I think plumbers gas line dope should work. I can not see how that Teflon ring can work anyway? There is no clamping force at that edge.
Hi Bryan..Best regards Bud.. I have learned a good amount from your videos..Thank you! But now I am stuck with a leaking power steering pump from an 2008 mustang. Someone replaced the pump and the pressure hose won't stop leaking. I've installed the Teflon ring at the fitting..and still leaking. Is there some kind of seal inside the pump where the pressure line bumps after is tight?
+Daniel Gomez If it is leaking from the center then the line must be replace. If it is leaking from the threads and it's not cross threaded it should just be the Teflon seal.
Well I did one today and I just got a 3/8 socket 3/8 drive, pushed the seal on the work end and slid it to the drive end. let it sit a few seconds and pushed it off and it pittered it right on. I did have to thread it a sming but went right on.
My son replaced a water pump in an '07 Focus 2.0 recently. A couple of days later it started blowing fluid out around the bottom of the pump and foaming out of the lid when the engine is stopped. We didn't know exactly where the leak was coming from, but found that this o-ring was broken. We bought a pump seal kit. The smallest white plastic ring in the kit fits looser than the one in the video. Not sure if it is going to work. How big of a deal is it if the ring is in the right place, but not snug?
On a 2000 Continental Rack&Pinion, curious why the reman units DO come with new white Teflon O-rings, but DO NOT come with the black Teflon O-rings that one might need when swapping the AUXILLARY ACTUATOR ASSY from the old rack to the new one.
Thank you sir for making this video. It was absolutely awesome. It answered my exact specific question. I just replaced my pump I found the old Teflon seal / O-ring in the middle of the threads (like three threads back from the beginning) Strangely enough. And I had other friends tell me to put it back in the same spot as if it was some type of thread sealant. Go figure. Anyway the new pump comes with two O-rings. (One white Teflon, and one smaller rubber black O ring which I assume is not used on my particular model. The instructions are probably printed in China. They are very vague and short worded. They don't tell you whether you're supposed to use one or the other, or both. But I assumed it was one or the other. Thanks again. :)
@@joshh345 The black O ring isn't needed or required anywhere so I threw it out. The white teflon seal does the job and me new RockAuto pump isn't leaking at all.
I just replaced the ps pump on my 99 F250 Light Duty. It came with a black o-ring and the white Teflon ring. I just used the black o-ring...do you think this will be an issue down the road? It was a nightmare threading that hose into the mounted pump!
Forgot to mention that the power steering connection pipe never gets tight, the seal is made by an internal "O" ring, you will always be able to move the pipe, it's normal.
hey Brian the kit that I got with the pump (Napa) came with the Teflon seal and an o-ring. does the o-ring seat inside the pump at the HP fitting? cuz that's where I have it. Couldn't figure out what to do with the Teflon seal cuz of zero instructions so I tossed it. The threads had remnants of Teflon tape but I omitted it thing the o-ring was sufficient but now it's leaking and I almost bought a new hose till I see this! I'm going to advance Auto and get that seal and try your method.
For 2002 Ford Escort, SOHC 2.0L. If the metal high pressure line is loose on the fitting; i.e. doesn't tighten when tightening the fitting to the pump, is the high pressure line worn out?
I have a 1990 ford f150 with rear antilock sign on I replaced the sensor on rear axle but it antilock sign is still on, I was wondering if I should replace abs module and what's the order of bleeding the brakes is it from rear left and work my way around to the drivers front and also would I bleed the module in that procedure I appreciate any help you can send my way thank you
Ford sells the fitting as a single replaceable part. I can see an internal snap ring on the new fitting but can't seem to get the old one off. Is it possible to just change the line to pump fitting?
If you are sliding the seal down the bare threads you are causing microscopic slices on the seal and it may fail prematurely. I would put tape all around the threads first and then slide the seal down with power steering fluid.
Got my hose with a baggie including threaded part. I put Teflon gasket threaded it and tried to insert the hose. Loose. Do I need to pop it on the line before then thread it? (Aka the threaded part wasn't already attached. Ford f150 xlt 2010)
Thanks for info, The auto parts stores are not that helpful, as how to install it, I think they just wanted me to put it the small one on the end which didn't make sense as its a flared got mine in the help section add to white ones one is a little smaller I had to use the larger one and got it on without breaking it. removing the high pressure nut of pump was a bitch was torqued on there, so i think you do tighten it up the most with a regular ratchet right Boss? also is there an internal rubber washer behind the nut, if so have you been able to change it or just cut off the flared end remove bolt and re-flare the pipe?
Yes, there's an o-ring inside the nut, which is what seals the tube/nut interface. The white teflon washer seals the nut to pump interface. I did quite a bit of searching and never found a solution, other than replacing the hose.
I have been searching for this dang seal all day. Anyone know what the part number is for the pressure seal on the pump? working on a 2008 ford focus. I found parts number for the orings. Steering seals: Reservoir x2 12.5mm 6S4Z-3F886-A Steering rack x1 7.5mm 3L2Z-3F886-AA Steering rack x1 6mm 3L2Z-3F886-BA
Possibly # 82540 is the number but I don't think so. My pump is all metal might be different. When you search make sure to use '''''Forum''''' with your car.
Just learned that fitting is replaceable! Apparently you cut the old one off and just snap on the new one. Part number is F5RZ-3R608-B and it costs about 2bucks!
way cool I'm trying to do this now on a Ford ranger.....where did u get the washers at? every auto parts store and hardware store in my town only has nylon.....oh and what size? 16 mm??
+Topher well working at the dealer at the time I got them from the parts department but I would only use the Ford seals anyway they are just the right size. I should have the part number or link to the part in the video description
I have ford focus 2000 single lx, what makes the power steering switch leaking so fast? I change it like 3 months ago brand new, by the way, is the second one, and is leaking again! is that may be any line clogged?
2000 DOHC Sable. The seal is the easy part. Removing the hose is a mechanics nitemare. At the pump end, what type of special crowsfoot does Ford use? At the rack end, can't even find the end. Like to know what the dealership quotes for labor charges on this hose.
Many thanks! I've been trying to get seals on my Lincoln and I keep destroying them. I wasn't letting them relax like you say. Do you have a video on fixing stripped bolt holes in aluminum parts, perhaps?
Fixing holes in aluminum parts is easy. If it's a blind hole drill it up a size and use a helicoil with red loctite. If it's a thru hole use a rivnut. They make aluminum rivnuts that pull flush on both sides.
I wonder this to. I actually put some on but couldn't get it to screw together. I ran the pump dry hopefully it still ok. I am going to try hooking it up with the teflon ring and do that.
I got it to work be the grace of Jesus. I used a teflon ring and some warm water. I was worried it became to soft after the water because it moved easy after all the way down. That is a tight fitting area and my pump doesn't seem burnt. I like power steering. 200000 miles on my 05 Focus and about twenty thousand of those are mine😁
Ive replaced now going on 10 of these and can't get the damn thing to stop leaking. Its on a 2001 Ford Escape 3.0v6. I have no clue what I am doing wrong but every one of these seals leak
I figured it out. The black butyl O ring goes in file 13, the garbage, as it isn't used anywhere. The brand new offshore pump is working perfectly. No leaks, easy steering, and no whining noise like the original and reman pumps did.
Ever figure out that it’s for then? Been searching for this answer for awhile.. haha. Same issue on the 07 power steering pump. Teflon seal and black o ring with no mention of that black o ring anywhere..
@@joshh345 My new pump from Rock Auto was made in China so the builders probably don't know what it's for either and probably just threw it in for good luck or to confuse us. Go with the white Teflon seal only and you'll be good.
Off topic but how hard is it to change a powersteering hose in the 6.0? It's the hose that connects up by the master cylinder. Also how do I find that ford part number? Thanks!
Ok so you need the one from the power steering pump to hydroboost right? Your Ford dealer can tell you what the part number is over the phone just explain it as I have pump to hydroboost pressure line. I have changed a few in the past and don't recall them being too bad at all.
Where's the smaller diameter white nylon like ring go that the dealer gave me and the "help" kits have? Is that the one that's around the line under the threaded fitting that is spoke about in the post by tee brown down below about 5 months ago?
Any idea about the torque for a 96 town car? Someone told me 14 inch pounds, other Ford forums say 22 ft lbs. I'm on my 4th one and still have leaks! New line and pump. Driving me crazy.
Bought a after market power steering pump for 2003 ford winstar 3.8 came with 2 seals white and one smaller black have any idea where black one goes? Also high pressure hose coming out of power steering pump has play after I tighten it is this normal?
Saul Olvera Just use the white one the size in my video that is all that is needed, yes the line will swing back and forth and have a little wobble to it.
@@FordTechMakuloco The part number for the hose is 8G1Z3a719C, PSH35, PSH387, or 9G1Z3A719B. Not sure which is the current number. I don't think it looks the same as yours. But the leak is at the press fit area where it pushes into the rack and is held in by a flat piece of metal. This metal "bracket" (or hold plate...whatever you want to call it) also holds another hose into the rack. So the end I'm referring to isn't a threaded fitting. I think it's just a push-in fitting that the bracket clamp thing keeps tight. I haven't taken it apart yet so that's why I don't know exactly how it looks. I can't have the car down for long so I need to repair it at the same time I disassemble it. Thanks for your help!!
FYI The Ford/Lincoln dealer will more than likely sell you the wrong sealing washer. Something wrong with there parts lookup. There are two sizes of washers. My Lincoln LS takes the larger one. These are available from the Dorman help products. Part number 82540.
This is a simple example of shade tree mechanic common sense stuff. (An O-ring installer tool: hilarious!😄) So what results when you're working on your only means of transportation, you face an obstacle you hadn't anticipated, you have no other way to get to town to get some special one-time-use tool and you go into stress mode? You get creative, you exercise that inherent "American ingenuity" and make do with what you have. You can work a high-paying job and pay someone else to repair your car because you have no time, patience or any experience to do it yourself ---or you can just eke by and be a "survivalist" like me, and develop a skillset that you will probably need to pull your ass (or others') out of tight spots over and over again in the future.
that's ok? im wondering because when I took of the old one it Waa still in tacked and I had to cute it off then I put the new one on and screwed it all the way in and it ripped with 2 I did
+FordTechMakuloco Not fun and still leaking. Not sure if it's coming from the teflon seal, or the o ring inside the nut. Hasn't someone come up with a way around replacing the entire hose due to a 10 cent o ring? Maybe cutting and flaring the tube and adding some extra hardware?
FordTechMakuloco not that you can see anyway. But the seal is more fragile than a brass o-ring. I know ive broken them using this method when i didnt have the tapered tool. One thing im sure we can agree on is this is a dumbass way to seal something.
Thanks for making this video, Sir. I coated my seal, as per instructions, then I gently stretched it over a 3/8" socket extension, for several minutes. Then I applied it to the HP line out, per your instructions. Worked great. Thanks for a great video.
Excellent video!I recently replaced a PS pump on a 2002 Taurus 3.0 DOHC and I wasn't certain how to treat the Teflon seal so I unfortunately damaged it. I was able to find replacements at Advance auto, Dorman part #82540 and replaced the damaged one yesterday. The critical part in your video is waiting until it shrinks. That few minutes I waited made the difference between a small leak and zero leaks. Thanks again.
Thank you for the video. I also used the 3/8 inch extension like Gary below - but placed the seal and extension in hot water - seal stretched a bit easier on the extension to fit over the threads.
Thank you for posting this, it helped tremendously after I attempted this after installing a new PS pump and getting it wrong, crushing the new teflon ring beyond recognition and use. I wish I had seen your video before doing this, but all it well. I ended up using a 1/2 extension bar which stretch it out to just the right size instead of my thumbs, but still run it down the threads like you demonstrate here. Thank you for posting this!
Worked great for me. I found a box of them on amazon for $11. First one went on easy. No leaks. Thanks.
VERY IMPORTANT - READ !!!. Teflon seals account for about 10% of all leaks. if your leak is coming from between the pipe and the fitting, the problem is the internal "O" ring inside the hose fitting. you can change the Teflon seal and the leak will still be there (don't waste your time). To stop the leak, you need to replace the hose. I bought one from Rock Auto for about $ 25.00 and stopped the leak.
My hose is 100bucks. Fk them, I'm not changing that nightmare. It's JB WELD for this guy.
THx 4 posting this vid. I to ruined the seal on my 1st try. Now I know better!
The first one I ever installed was on a 2001 Mercury Sable 3.0. The instructions said to put the seal in a cup of hot water for a few minutes then stretch it over a large tapered punch until it will fit over the treads and then walk it down like in the video. The trick is to not get it stretch to big where it will almost just drop down over the treads.
A lot easier than heating up the ring, Thanks for this video
Thank you so much for teaching me I've definitely learned so much from you ...
How tight do you tighten that fitting? Can you tighten it until it bottoms out or will it spit out that seal?
If you have a hard time getting the seal,go to local HVAC supply and ask for one. HVAC uses them on evap coil liquid line connection on alot of residential equipment. Hell ask an ac man he's probably got several on his truck.
Mine worked by starting the nylon ring on to match the angle of the threads and then spin it down letting it follows the threads like tightening a nut on a bolt
Thanks for the video! You just saved me from buying a new line.
Thanks this is what I thought I had to do but I didn't want to brake it 😊
Thank you. Had trouble starting it, used a 3/8" drive ten millimeter to gently get it to start, then your technique.
What about torque specs? Or how much of a turn do we tighten after hand tightened?
Have seen many people discuss this topic in TCCA. Now I really understand the problem and its solution. Thank you. If possible, may you shoot one video for replacing the cracked break line? You have mentioned this many times during your show. Thank you
One Day.
codyq0987
A snap on semi deep socket works well too. You just match the base diameter w the threads. I think i used a 10mm last time
The little tricks thanks brother this going to help tonight
Great Video, I just had to replace mine on my 03 Ranger V6, this came in very helpful indeed. Thank You
Where to get the Teflon Seal? Part#? I need to do this on my Ranger.
Same question, part number would be helpful, thanks.
Thanks for the video! My fitting is leaking not at the pump side (outer side) of the fitting but between the fitting and the tube. Do you know what the cause of that is? The fitting is as tight as it can be but the tube in the fitting wobbles a little.
ford sells just the nut. the nut on the end has internal oring inside of it. there is also a snap ring to hold it on. you can remove the nut by cutting thro it almost all the way CAREFULLY. then use a flat screwdriver to twist it off.
I like to heat up the top of a large tapered punch with a torch and submerge the punch in hot water from the tap to cool it down to a reasonable temp. Then i just work the seal up the punch until its just large enough to drop it over the threads.
Hi awesome video, 2 questions
I bought the line a came with 2 fittings,
how do i know which to use
An how do i take the fitting of the line
excellent video! Just the info I needed. thank you!
Love the videos. Your the only one out there with the nylon seal change on the power steering pump. I do have a question for you. I have 2000 Mustang GT with Power boost brakes int he mix. I have tried bleeding the system a thousand times and tried many different ways. I can hear air in the rack when hitting the stops on each end of the rack and it makes a wheering sound when I step on the brakes and the noise comes from the power boost unit. I tried everything to get the air out of the system and no luck. I have checked everything and there are no leaks anywhere that are visible, no fluid coming from anything. I had changed the timing cover due to someone breaking the tensioner pulley mounting point off. and when I put everything back together and tried bleeding the power steering and power boost I get nowhere. I did the trick back and forth withe engine off a few hundred times while pressing the brakes 3 times in between sets of five turning the wheel. I am so frustrated and getting nowhere. Do you have any suggestions on this. It would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the short novel.
Great tip, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I will be doing this on my 03 Ranger as it's leaking from that area on the pump side
What is the part number for the Teflon seals? I need one for the return line that goes to the rack and pinion on a 2005 Taurus.
The Ford/Lincoln dealer and the HELP line by Dorman sells the wrong (or a smaller size seal) that is very difficult to install without damaging it. I found this out when I purchased a power steering pressure line and a power steering pump. They came with a little larger seal that worked just right and wasn't hard to get on and no more leak. FYI. Why Ford/Lincoln came up with a different way to seal the pressure hose at the pump when we have a proven method to accomplish this in a double flare or o-ring seal is beyond me.
That is what I also thought. I think plumbers gas line dope should work.
I can not see how that Teflon ring can work anyway? There is no clamping force at that edge.
thank you so so much str8 to the point I've boiled them b4 but this was so informative i did mine in 10 seconds thank you so much Brother
Great vid...I wrap threads with electricians tape to help let it slide over threads...
Thank you luckily I stopped before I ruined the new one and watched this video explaining it. All data has nothing
Hi I put that same seal on my 2001Ford Windstar when I replaced the pump, why does it still leak?
because its fords better idea COUGH COUGH COUGH never buyng a new ford product but that a intake manifold story and a class action lawsuit ford lost
@@loviedebiasio8864 you talking about the intake runner valves failing on one bank on the 5.0s?
@@12mak no the front water crossover on the intake manifold. was origianally composite but they failed on the 4.6l
Hi Bryan..Best regards Bud..
I have learned a good amount from your videos..Thank you! But now I am stuck with a leaking power steering pump from an 2008 mustang. Someone replaced the pump and the pressure hose won't stop leaking. I've installed the Teflon ring at the fitting..and still leaking. Is there some kind of seal inside the pump where the pressure line bumps after is tight?
+Daniel Gomez If it is leaking from the center then the line must be replace. If it is leaking from the threads and it's not cross threaded it should just be the Teflon seal.
I use a deep well socket and run hot water on the seal to warm it up some and slide on the socket and slide off the socket onto the hose fitting
Well I did one today and I just got a 3/8 socket 3/8 drive, pushed the seal on the work end and slid it to the drive end. let it sit a few seconds and pushed it off and it pittered it right on. I did have to thread it a sming but went right on.
GREAT TIP,THX FOR POSTING!
My son replaced a water pump in an '07 Focus 2.0 recently. A couple of days later it started blowing fluid out around the bottom of the pump and foaming out of the lid when the engine is stopped. We didn't know exactly where the leak was coming from, but found that this o-ring was broken. We bought a pump seal kit. The smallest white plastic ring in the kit fits looser than the one in the video. Not sure if it is going to work. How big of a deal is it if the ring is in the right place, but not snug?
On a 2000 Continental Rack&Pinion, curious why the reman units DO come with new white Teflon O-rings, but DO NOT come with the black Teflon O-rings that one might need when swapping the AUXILLARY ACTUATOR ASSY from the old rack to the new one.
How can I fix a leak from same line between that nut and line
Good question, I have the same.
for a explorer can you just replace the seal inside a rack and pinion is leakin on one side of tie tod. thank u sir.
Thank you sir for making this video. It was absolutely awesome. It answered my exact specific question. I just replaced my pump I found the old Teflon seal / O-ring in the middle of the threads (like three threads back from the beginning) Strangely enough. And I had other friends tell me to put it back in the same spot as if it was some type of thread sealant. Go figure. Anyway the new pump comes with two O-rings. (One white Teflon, and one smaller rubber black O ring which I assume is not used on my particular model. The instructions are probably printed in China. They are very vague and short worded. They don't tell you whether you're supposed to use one or the other, or both. But I assumed it was one or the other. Thanks again. :)
I have the same seals included with my new Rock Auto pump. Did you ever figure out where the black O ring goes?
Same question… let me know if you ever find out
@@joshh345 The black O ring isn't needed or required anywhere so I threw it out. The white teflon seal does the job and me new RockAuto pump isn't leaking at all.
I just replaced the ps pump on my 99 F250 Light Duty. It came with a black o-ring and the white Teflon ring. I just used the black o-ring...do you think this will be an issue down the road? It was a nightmare threading that hose into the mounted pump!
Forgot to mention that the power steering connection pipe never gets tight, the seal is made by an internal "O" ring, you will always be able to move the pipe, it's normal.
hey Brian the kit that I got with the pump (Napa) came with the Teflon seal and an o-ring. does the o-ring seat inside the pump at the HP fitting? cuz that's where I have it. Couldn't figure out what to do with the Teflon seal cuz of zero instructions so I tossed it. The threads had remnants of Teflon tape but I omitted it thing the o-ring was sufficient but now it's leaking and I almost bought a new hose till I see this! I'm going to advance Auto and get that seal and try your method.
I am currently having the same problem. Did that black o ring go on the tip or no? I don't see any info about a second o ring.
Did y’all ever find out the answer to the mysterious black o-ring?
is it easier to put the pump in first then push the line in or the put line on first and fish it in ???
For 2002 Ford Escort, SOHC 2.0L. If the metal high pressure line is loose on the fitting; i.e. doesn't tighten when tightening the fitting to the pump, is the high pressure line worn out?
Can this be also done on other types of vehicles like Chevrolet or Dodge?
I have a 1990 ford f150 with rear antilock sign on I replaced the sensor on rear axle but it antilock sign is still on, I was wondering if I should replace abs module and what's the order of bleeding the brakes is it from rear left and work my way around to the drivers front and also would I bleed the module in that procedure I appreciate any help you can send my way thank you
Is there an oring inside the high pressure port on the pump?
Ford sells the fitting as a single replaceable part. I can see an internal snap ring on the new fitting but can't seem to get the old one off. Is it possible to just change the line to pump fitting?
part number????
If you are sliding the seal down the bare threads you are causing microscopic slices on the seal and it may fail prematurely. I would put tape all around the threads first and then slide the seal down with power steering fluid.
These seals actually get crushed and squeeze out when the fitting is tightened, how are microscopic scratches in the seal going to affect it?
Got my hose with a baggie including threaded part. I put Teflon gasket threaded it and tried to insert the hose. Loose. Do I need to pop it on the line before then thread it? (Aka the threaded part wasn't already attached. Ford f150 xlt 2010)
Thanks for info, The auto parts stores are not that helpful, as how to install it, I think they just wanted me to put it the small one on the end which didn't make sense as its a flared
got mine in the help section add to white ones one is a little smaller I had to use the larger one and got it on without breaking it. removing the high pressure nut of pump was a bitch was torqued on there, so i think you do tighten it up the most with a regular ratchet right Boss? also is there an internal rubber washer behind the nut, if so have you been able to change it or just cut off the flared end remove bolt and re-flare the pipe?
Yes, there's an o-ring inside the nut, which is what seals the tube/nut interface. The white teflon washer seals the nut to pump interface. I did quite a bit of searching and never found a solution, other than replacing the hose.
I have been searching for this dang seal all day. Anyone know what the part number is for the pressure seal on the pump? working on a 2008 ford focus. I found parts number for the orings. Steering seals:
Reservoir x2 12.5mm 6S4Z-3F886-A
Steering rack x1 7.5mm 3L2Z-3F886-AA
Steering rack x1 6mm 3L2Z-3F886-BA
Possibly # 82540 is the number but I don't think so. My pump is all metal might be different. When you search make sure to use '''''Forum''''' with your car.
Has anyone replaced the entire nut? How did you do it?
Just learned that fitting is replaceable! Apparently you cut the old one off and just snap on the new one. Part number is F5RZ-3R608-B and it costs about 2bucks!
That's the hard part taking it off.
@FordTechMakuloco such a dumbass design.. 🙄
Quick question, would you still need to apply Teflon tape over the thread or will the seal do it?
no need
@@FordTechMakuloco oh no...I just did that. Gonna remove it asap
Can bad ball joints and bad joints make a power steering to atart gling bad?
way cool I'm trying to do this now on a Ford ranger.....where did u get the washers at? every auto parts store and hardware store in my town only has nylon.....oh and what size? 16 mm??
+Topher well working at the dealer at the time I got them from the parts department but I would only use the Ford seals anyway they are just the right size. I should have the part number or link to the part in the video description
FordTechMakuloco okay thanks, I'll check into it. it's the last thing I need to hook up now😂😂
Dorman 82540
I have ford focus 2000 single lx, what makes the power steering switch leaking so fast? I change it like 3 months ago brand new, by the way, is the second one, and is leaking again! is that may be any line clogged?
2000 DOHC Sable. The seal is the easy part. Removing the hose is a mechanics nitemare. At the pump end, what type of special crowsfoot does Ford use? At the rack end, can't even find the end. Like to know what the dealership quotes for labor charges on this hose.
BS design. Will never buy a Ford product unless its an old T Bird or Mustang.
How tight should one tighten the seal ? On late model fords
Many thanks! I've been trying to get seals on my Lincoln and I keep destroying them. I wasn't letting them relax like you say. Do you have a video on fixing stripped bolt holes in aluminum parts, perhaps?
No I don't sorry
+FordTechMakuloco. do you know if ford makes a tool for removing the nut without cutting it.
Fixing holes in aluminum parts is easy. If it's a blind hole drill it up a size and use a helicoil with red loctite. If it's a thru hole use a rivnut. They make aluminum rivnuts that pull flush on both sides.
Would PTFE tape work instead, it’s the same material after all?
I wonder this to. I actually put some on but couldn't get it to screw together. I ran the pump dry hopefully it still ok. I am going to try hooking it up with the teflon ring and do that.
I got it to work be the grace of Jesus. I used a teflon ring and some warm water. I was worried it became to soft after the water because it moved easy after all the way down. That is a tight fitting area and my pump doesn't seem burnt. I like power steering. 200000 miles on my 05 Focus and about twenty thousand of those are mine😁
worked like a champ...
Hi, what is diameter of the o ring? I'm trying to find out and order before changing. (Ford fiesta mk5 2008)
Cool.... been going nuts to install this one.....
where do you get the teflon seals?
Ive replaced now going on 10 of these and can't get the damn thing to stop leaking. Its on a 2001 Ford Escape 3.0v6. I have no clue what I am doing wrong but every one of these seals leak
The new pump for my '96 F-150 came with this seal and an O ring which is a bit smaller in diameter than the Teflon seal. Where does the O ring go?
I figured it out. The black butyl O ring goes in file 13, the garbage, as it isn't used anywhere. The brand new offshore pump is working perfectly. No leaks, easy steering, and no whining noise like the original and reman pumps did.
Ever figure out that it’s for then? Been searching for this answer for awhile.. haha. Same issue on the 07 power steering pump. Teflon seal and black o ring with no mention of that black o ring anywhere..
@@joshh345 My new pump from Rock Auto was made in China so the builders probably don't know what it's for either and probably just threw it in for good luck or to confuse us. Go with the white Teflon seal only and you'll be good.
@@mumbles552 thanks man, just threw it in 2 hours ago with only the Teflon seal. Hopefully she doesn’t leak 👍🏽
great video, any way you try it, it's still like my daddy use to say.........trying to stretch a gnat's ass over a rain barrel!! lol
Off topic but how hard is it to change a powersteering hose in the 6.0? It's the hose that connects up by the master cylinder. Also how do I find that ford part number? Thanks!
Ok so you need the one from the power steering pump to hydroboost right? Your Ford dealer can tell you what the part number is over the phone just explain it as I have pump to hydroboost pressure line. I have changed a few in the past and don't recall them being too bad at all.
Where do I get one of these seals in NZ ??I can’t find them
You guys don't have Autozone or other parts stores
Maybe a Ford dealership.
Where's the smaller diameter white nylon like ring go that the dealer gave me and the "help" kits have? Is that the one that's around the line under the threaded fitting that is spoke about in the post by tee brown down below about 5 months ago?
Where can I buy the o rings ford tried giving me rubber ones
Now I know why my mom didn't like me biting my nails.
I know this will sound stupid, but why not use a rubber o ring or a flat rubber ring like a plumbers seal?
I use what Ford recommends.
@@FordTechMakuloco Makes sense. I was just wondering what differences there are in other rings for future references. Thank you. Love your videos btw.
Any idea about the torque for a 96 town car? Someone told me 14 inch pounds, other Ford forums say 22 ft lbs. I'm on my 4th one and still have leaks! New line and pump. Driving me crazy.
26-34 lb-ft is the official spec.
@@FordTechMakuloco thank you so much.
Bought a after market power steering pump for 2003 ford winstar 3.8 came with 2 seals white and one smaller black have any idea where black one goes? Also high pressure hose coming out of power steering pump has play after I tighten it is this normal?
Saul Olvera Just use the white one the size in my video that is all that is needed, yes the line will swing back and forth and have a little wobble to it.
How do u take it off I’m trynna put o ring on
My 2008 Taurus SEL is leaking right at the pressure line connection at the rack. Is there a Teflon washer in this location too?
If it’s not this style then it has an o-ring yes
@@FordTechMakuloco The part number for the hose is 8G1Z3a719C, PSH35, PSH387, or 9G1Z3A719B. Not sure which is the current number. I don't think it looks the same as yours. But the leak is at the press fit area where it pushes into the rack and is held in by a flat piece of metal. This metal "bracket" (or hold plate...whatever you want to call it) also holds another hose into the rack. So the end I'm referring to isn't a threaded fitting. I think it's just a push-in fitting that the bracket clamp thing keeps tight. I haven't taken it apart yet so that's why I don't know exactly how it looks. I can't have the car down for long so I need to repair it at the same time I disassemble it. Thanks for your help!!
That o-ring worked haha but ill definatly try this method next time... I hate jimmy-rigging stuff haha! Thanks for the vid!!!
Good to hear!
Does Dorman make a replacement seal for this hose? Mine is broken...
Yes they do. You can get them at Advanced Auto Parts. P/N 82540
Does that teflon washer have to used and not a rubber one?
yes
FYI The Ford/Lincoln dealer will more than likely sell you the wrong sealing washer. Something wrong with there parts lookup. There are two sizes of washers. My Lincoln LS takes the larger one. These are available from the Dorman help products. Part number 82540.
Now for the real puzzle; how the hell do I get the tube wrench on the power steering line on an 07 Focus without taking apart half the car?
How about a crows foot flare wrench? Attach it to a socket extension and use a breaker bar.
Damn forgot to do this when changing the the rack n pinon, this is probably why its leaking
Great tip. Saved me from buyin that tool..
your the man!
2009 Ford F-350 5.4l power steering fluid leaks from under drivers side dashboard
This is a simple example of shade tree mechanic common sense stuff. (An O-ring installer tool: hilarious!😄) So what results when you're working on your only means of transportation, you face an obstacle you hadn't anticipated, you have no other way to get to town to get some special one-time-use tool and you go into stress mode? You get creative, you exercise that inherent "American ingenuity" and make do with what you have. You can work a high-paying job and pay someone else to repair your car because you have no time, patience or any experience to do it yourself ---or you can just eke by and be a "survivalist" like me, and develop a skillset that you will probably need to pull your ass (or others') out of tight spots over and over again in the future.
is that seal supposed to rip when you are screwing the pump back in
It will smash and deform yes
that's ok? im wondering because when I took of the old one it Waa still in tacked and I had to cute it off then I put the new one on and screwed it all the way in and it ripped with 2 I did
Thanks for the video
Try doing this with nitrile gloves on and everything covered in PS fluid.
+Paul Somlo not fun
+FordTechMakuloco Not fun and still leaking. Not sure if it's coming from the teflon seal, or the o ring inside the nut. Hasn't someone come up with a way around replacing the entire hose due to a 10 cent o ring? Maybe cutting and flaring the tube and adding some extra hardware?
Does anyone know what size teflon oring this is?
Thank You. I was wondering about this. Installed it on the inside first and it leaked just a little bit.
did it work?
@@thomasnyanfore8424 Yes it did.
And if i cant change the seal inside
Who sell this part? I'm looking for this teflon for more than a month!
Ford of course
@@FordTechMakuloco I live in Brazil, not easy to ask Ford here about parts of a car that was not produced in Brazil.
Only problem is it eats up the seal as you work it down this way.
nope never a problem doesnt fray or anything.
FordTechMakuloco not that you can see anyway. But the seal is more fragile than a brass o-ring. I know ive broken them using this method when i didnt have the tapered tool. One thing im sure we can agree on is this is a dumbass way to seal something.