Great work Bill. I think I'm addicted to watching these videos. Entertaining and really helpful. One little thing I've noticed is your 4F has the original LMS number but a BR emblem tender... another potential video there!
@@oobill Things like that happened around the time I was born!. Derby was using up LMS transfers, in the absence of official statements and some happy soul noticed a rake of coaches on the Midland and Great Northern, in late 1948, a rake of newly shopped teak carriages, lined out in blue and yellow with M&GN Jt. The guard said that someone ought to have had their knuckles rapped but Melton Constable was as usual, economically using up old transfers.
Always interesting watching you bravely pulling these things apart. And I've never seen one of these, so it was entirely a voyage of discovery (and, indeed, not much like anything I've taken apart). It seems to be quite a nice model... certainly much more effective at shunting than the old Lima diesel shunters that I have. Bachmann's chassis do tend to be a bit iffy. Well, they almost never bother to put actual bearings on the axles. Though I hear rumours that might be improving.
Well done! Lots of lessons for anyone working on delicate, fiddly machinery. I restore hifi turntables and appreciate how Bill approaches his projects.
Nicely done Bill ! I had a little fiddle today with an old Lima,a few skushes and i christened my manky brush,i was amazed how quickly the manky brush got well manky!
A brilliant chemical to put on track and loco wheels which stops oxidation is called No-ox-id. I used it several yrs ago but did not realize you have to remove all the No-ox-id grease after 24 hrs. I run a tourist attraction and need good running without lots of cleaning. Recently I saw a few TH-cam clips promoting its use so I decided to have another go. What you do is clean the track and loco wheels. Spread tiny smears on the track and wheels, leave for 24 hrs then remove all traces. The grease has made a chemical reaction with the metal and the results are staggering. Engines don't need their wheels cleaning regularly as before nor the track. I hasten to add I don't work/own the company that makes this stuff! To see my railway click on the logo. Thanks for all your inspiring vids.
Nice one Bill. So often a build-up of oose or fluff or even grime on the wheels(from recent experience!). stops a loco, through just friction or lack of electrical continuity can hamper a loco's progress. I just bought a Bachmann 08 Shunter at the Perth MRE there and now I know what to look for if it hiccups at all. Keep Safe now. Cheers!
Good work there Bill. These 08s are great little locos; I've a Hornby version, beautifully detailed but a nightmare to get the body off without breaking something!!
Interesting and informative video - I found a similar amount of 'fluff' in a Farish (N gauge) Class 25 last week - totally dead out of the box but now runs super sweet!
I rteally enjoy watching your videos, more fun than doing it myself. May I suggest that if you have to repair another PCB as this one reinforce the the broken track with a length of fine guage wire. Thats how they do it on satalite boards that need to be modified.
Lovely looking engine. Never really been a diesel shunter fan but this is an appealing loco. On a different topic, as someone returning to the hobby, the difficulty servicing modern models from the likes of Bachmann and Heljan, together with their cost and apparent unreliability, is a bit of a concern. I like the extra detail, but I'm not sure the balance is right on all these parameters.
Certainly some new models are a bit of a challenge to service compared to older models. But on the flip side they should require less servicing in theory if looked after in a clean environment. And most run extremely well and quietly so it's a bit of a pay off really. I'd advise staying clear of Heljan though if fiddly diddly isn't your thing!.
@@oobill I'm not a fan of the Heljan fiddly diddly but I am a fan of the used model pricey wicey. Folks seem to dump their less-than-perfect models for a very low cost and after a bit of work and a few swear words I end up with an ok loco. Your videos are a great resource for us tinkerers. Well done.
@@oobill I suspect you are right! The challenge is I'm really excited at the Heljan TT gauge announcements and intend to make a Peco based layout next year. Really hoping that more manufacturers come forward and the Heljan TT locos are a bit more reliable than some of their OO stuff. Time will tell!
hi bill, thats what happens if you run locos on the carpet.very interesting to see how it comes apart, i see this model has come out again so might get one
Good videos,. Although when you couple up to wagons if you don't stop 6ft away and ease up then that's classed as a collision and the model railway btp will be after you laddy 😉😅
Random thought -- is it possible that you put that base plate back on backwards? The rear axle needs to be held still to keep the gears meshing, while the front axle ought to have some play. Perhaps the plate fits on both ways but is supposed to go one way, rather than the other?
I've been offered them but without a N gauge layout it wouldn't be the same and I wouldn't be confident of the repair. Locos often appear to run OK on a bit of track but once they get round some curves and points it becomes apparent there is still work to be done.
They tell people not to run model trains on carpets , but they take no notice and this is what happens fluff and fibres on pick ups and gears which causes eratic running.
To be fair I can see why this one got broken. I had to push one of the components to the side a little as it was stopping it from fitting properly. I spotted it before I screwed it down but if I hadn't it would have snapped as I screwed it in. The question really is why is there a PCB at all in this?
Ah the old “wee hidden screw” trick, love it 😁, well done bill.
Great work Bill. I think I'm addicted to watching these videos. Entertaining and really helpful.
One little thing I've noticed is your 4F has the original LMS number but a BR emblem tender... another potential video there!
That's cos I swapped the tender body but haven't got round to changing the number yet. Doesn't matter much to me.
@@oobill Things like that happened around the time I was born!. Derby was using up LMS transfers, in the absence of official statements and some happy soul noticed a rake of coaches on the Midland and Great Northern, in late 1948, a rake of newly shopped teak carriages, lined out in blue and yellow with M&GN Jt. The guard said that someone ought to have had their knuckles rapped but Melton Constable was as usual, economically using up old transfers.
Always interesting watching you bravely pulling these things apart. And I've never seen one of these, so it was entirely a voyage of discovery (and, indeed, not much like anything I've taken apart). It seems to be quite a nice model... certainly much more effective at shunting than the old Lima diesel shunters that I have. Bachmann's chassis do tend to be a bit iffy. Well, they almost never bother to put actual bearings on the axles. Though I hear rumours that might be improving.
Well done! Lots of lessons for anyone working on delicate, fiddly machinery. I restore hifi turntables and appreciate how Bill approaches his projects.
Yes it makes you wonder how the little chinese ladies assemble these modern locos they must have huge magnifiers on their tables.
I just stumbled onto your channel. This is very interesting. It's like sending a locomotive to Crewe
Nicely done Bill ! I had a little fiddle today with an old Lima,a few skushes and i christened my manky brush,i was amazed how quickly the manky brush got well manky!
Bill keep an eye on your GWR pannier tank! They don’t mix well with all black diesels. So my friend on an island told me anyway! 😂😂
Great diagnostics on the squeak . Looks like one of the more complicated one . Well done again
A brilliant chemical to put on track and loco wheels which stops oxidation is called No-ox-id. I used it several yrs ago but did not realize you have to remove all the No-ox-id grease after 24 hrs. I run a tourist attraction and need good running without lots of cleaning. Recently I saw a few TH-cam clips promoting its use so I decided to have another go. What you do is clean the track and loco wheels. Spread tiny smears on the track and wheels, leave for 24 hrs then remove all traces. The grease has made a chemical reaction with the metal and the results are staggering. Engines don't need their wheels cleaning regularly as before nor the track. I hasten to add I don't work/own the company that makes this stuff! To see my railway click on the logo. Thanks for all your inspiring vids.
I need that stuff asap
Another belter, Bill! N gauge Bachmann can be just as tricky. Nice repair on the PCB as well. Cheers, Jim L
Never stop being a wee Scottish legend, Billy-boo.
Nice one Bill. So often a build-up of oose or fluff or even grime on the wheels(from recent experience!). stops a loco, through just friction or lack of electrical continuity can hamper a loco's progress. I just bought a Bachmann 08 Shunter at the Perth MRE there and now I know what to look for if it hiccups at all. Keep Safe now. Cheers!
Good work there Bill. These 08s are great little locos; I've a Hornby version, beautifully detailed but a nightmare to get the body off without breaking something!!
Excellent videos
Interesting and informative video - I found a similar amount of 'fluff' in a Farish (N gauge) Class 25 last week - totally dead out of the box but now runs super sweet!
Thanks for all your fascinating videos. They both enjoyable and helpful.
again really useful video on the cleanliness reqts for the models
Beautiful layout.
Really great video - really inspiring me to start looking after my own locos …. Thank you! I have liked and subscribed, cheers Julian
Ok bill I given you inspired me to restore my own 40yr old railway system
I rteally enjoy watching your videos, more fun than doing it myself. May I suggest that if you have to repair another PCB as this one reinforce the the broken track with a length of fine guage wire.
Thats how they do it on satalite boards that need to be modified.
Lovely looking engine. Never really been a diesel shunter fan but this is an appealing loco.
On a different topic, as someone returning to the hobby, the difficulty servicing modern models from the likes of Bachmann and Heljan, together with their cost and apparent unreliability, is a bit of a concern. I like the extra detail, but I'm not sure the balance is right on all these parameters.
Certainly some new models are a bit of a challenge to service compared to older models. But on the flip side they should require less servicing in theory if looked after in a clean environment. And most run extremely well and quietly so it's a bit of a pay off really. I'd advise staying clear of Heljan though if fiddly diddly isn't your thing!.
@@oobill I'm not a fan of the Heljan fiddly diddly but I am a fan of the used model pricey wicey.
Folks seem to dump their less-than-perfect models for a very low cost and after a bit of work and a few swear words I end up with an ok loco.
Your videos are a great resource for us tinkerers. Well done.
@@oobill I suspect you are right!
The challenge is I'm really excited at the Heljan TT gauge announcements and intend to make a Peco based layout next year. Really hoping that more manufacturers come forward and the Heljan TT locos are a bit more reliable than some of their OO stuff. Time will tell!
Nice catch on the circuit board 👌
Nice job bill I have a little 08 over 10years a clean and lube every so often and runs fine no hassle 👌
Whew! Great repair, got to be easier pulling teeth! ATB Andy.
hi bill, thats what happens if you run locos on the carpet.very interesting to see how it comes apart, i see this model has come out again so might get one
Like the technical description ‘Stoppie startie’
My favourite is the Manky Brush
Everything works better once it's had a "wee scoosh!"
Good videos,. Although when you couple up to wagons if you don't stop 6ft away and ease up then that's classed as a collision and the model railway btp will be after you laddy 😉😅
Has he been running it on top of a dog or something? Or just on track on a carpet. ?
Thanks very informative,
Nice work Bill
Nick Australia
Great repair Bill and what a lovely Class 08. Just one question, if it’s DC and has no lights why does it have a circuit board?
Good question. I can only think it's a RF suppressor and a resistor combined. The resister will help keep the motor speed down. I think.....
Random thought -- is it possible that you put that base plate back on backwards? The rear axle needs to be held still to keep the gears meshing, while the front axle ought to have some play. Perhaps the plate fits on both ways but is supposed to go one way, rather than the other?
There's a recess for the drive gear on the rear end of the plate. So it only fits one way.
A bigger shunter -- time to make yourself a class 13?
Have you ever thought about trying to service a N gauge locomotive?
I've been offered them but without a N gauge layout it wouldn't be the same and I wouldn't be confident of the repair. Locos often appear to run OK on a bit of track but once they get round some curves and points it becomes apparent there is still work to be done.
They tell people not to run model trains on carpets , but they take no notice and this is what happens fluff and fibres on pick ups and gears which causes eratic running.
You only need to remove the brake rigging mouldings, then the wheelsets just pull out..
00:40 That 0-6-0 Steam Engine doesn't sound to good..
An old Airfix ringfield. They all rattle....
Sounds a bit like an electric tooth brush.. Love the model though
How on earth can anyone break a circuit board??? There is no end to the ham fistedness of some people…
To be fair I can see why this one got broken. I had to push one of the components to the side a little as it was stopping it from fitting properly. I spotted it before I screwed it down but if I hadn't it would have snapped as I screwed it in. The question really is why is there a PCB at all in this?
Certainly a lot fluff and dirt in that one
1st :)
@Alfie Gould you did enough to comment :)
@@esseel7896 It's hardly a ringing endorsement of your post, though...
@@beeble2003 damn so much butt hurt because i got in first :)
@@esseel7896 No, so much butt hurt because you left an assinine comment that contributes nothing meaningful.