Yeah I had to have the door skins replaced on mine because the wing mirrors fell off due to rust. The clutch went in the middle of nowhere on the A68. Got rid of it soon after.
Nice work Bill. I had a similar situation with a slightly older Hornby HST, screechy motor when it ran against the battery but, as it turned out, the main problem was a thick build-up of grime on the non-powered bogie's wheels, to the point it couldn't pick up power. It took a bit of shifting too! Nice work, sir. Thanks again! Keep Well, there. Cheers!
Hornby have recently ish re-tooled this model, and it is "All bells and whistles", super detailed, centre mounted motor, driving both bogies, and working lights. I don't have one as it costs a fortune. But it is something that was long over due on the model!
The new one seems to have issues crossing frogs on points . It doesn’t derail but it noticeably falls into the frog because the bogie is too stiff . You can definitely hear it as it goes over points like a sort of controlled crash . Can’t be good long term . Not what you expect for something approaching £200 .
The power boggy is in the front of the Hornby Australian S class too and yes it does detail often I sold mine and got a Lima S class that has the power boggy in the back and it's a nicer model
thanx for taking time to reply to my query I asked as I have a few poor runners when I changed the magnet with neo`s they ran better any hoo thanx again
Yet another superb video Bill. I'd love to see you working on a 1960s BR blue Pullman. I think it would look superb running around your layout. I've always been a big fan of the 1960s diesel blue Pullman with it's front and end locomotives which look like where the 125s design came from. Keep them fantastic videos coming. Cheers.
My tender drive B17 had the same problem and I've done a temporary with a tiny drop of superglue on the pinion.. I doubt it will hold for ever, so I'll be watching this again at some point in the future.
Quick way to have repaired this, clean the gear, clean the shaft, apply a dap of loctite 638 & you are done. In fact 638 is overkill, it’s used a lot to bond wheels to axles in 5 inch gauge locomotives, both steam & battery electric.
The class 91 and it's associated set are my fav British hst trains, I got the same hornby one as in the vid but it hasn't run in 20 odd years. Currently working on building an n-gauge layout. I managed to find a 91 in gner livery but not in intercity swallow.
I think this must be a fairly common issue with these models . I’ve had it on an inter City 91 like this one and a GNER one . Never had a problem with any other Ringfield motors . Maybe it is specific to the alloy used for the gear on this model . I don’t have a vice, so from memory I used a bit of superglue on mine . You have to be very careful applying it . So far so good !
Yes you can. But it's rarely needed. A ring magnet keeps it's own power even if you remove it from the motor. Also they break quite easily so I tend not to do it unless I think it really needs it. X04/3 and old Dublo motors tend to loose their magnetism because people remove the magnets. Some of these old magnets will lose their power almost instantly when removed. So that's why you see me remagnetising those motors more than any other.
Hi Bill I have sorted out my loft and found some various hornby trains plus wagons etc. One of the trains has not been used which is a 16440 that came as a package called the Country Local. I have tried running some of the trains and they are not running. I watch all your youtube video's with great interest, so would like to look deeper into why they are not running. So if you can help me, where is the best place for spares if I need them. Hope I am not a pain, what oil do you use, and where to get the small syringe, and the aerosol for cleaning. Thank you Bill
The syringe is (or at least mine is) a Gaugemaster GM619 and is filled with a lifetime supply of drops :) My own take on which oil to use as a refill is a thin (low viscosity) mineral oil. The aerosol is just contact cleaner (sometimes known as switch cleaner). It's designed to break down carbon-based material such as model train gunk, human flesh etc, so be careful :)
I have just started my first clean/restore on a gifted loco, but on opening i found loads of oil all over the motor, what is the best thing to remove the oil please. many thanks for your very informative videos.
Give it a good spray with WD40 Contact Cleaner. Don't try to brush it just degrease it with the contact cleaner and let it dry. Some dirt and oil in the windings won't do any harm. Get the commutator clean and any excess oil from the rest of the armature and that'll do.
Hi Bill ,, yet another good informative video. 😁 ?? I'm in the process of replacing a few pancake motors and ringfield motors to do the cd drive motor conversions and have bought the conversion kit and the 8 teeth drive cogs that I bought from england and i am using my own motors that ive pulled out of cd drives and old printers which fit these cd drive conversion motor holders. Now the cogs on 3 of these motors iv pulled out already have plastic drive cogs on them but they have a different amounts of teeth on them as in 1 has 11 teeth and the other 2 have 12 teeth. They all seem to mesh quite well as far as i can see so far. Now if there is more teeth will this make the motor run faster or will be slower as i want to do a replacement cd drive conversion on a virgin hst I have here. If you (or anyone) could let me know which way this will go that would be great and muchly appreciated. Cheers from John in Australia.
Imagine that your 11-tooth cog is running along a rail, and each tooth is 1mm wide. For each turn of the cog, it will move 11 teeth, or 11mm, along the rail. If you fit a 12-tooth instead, it will move further - 12mm. If the cog rotates once a second an 11-tooth cog will drive the train at 11mm/sec and a 12-tooth cog will run at 12mm/sec. Cogs attached to motors (drivING) get faster as they get bigger. If the cog on the wheel (drivEN) gets bigger you'll need to shift more teeth per second just to maintain speed.
@@kitmoore9969 thanks for that. Im putting these into a couple of the 16 wheel (40 class i think) and the motors are crap,and cant get spares for them and they only have them tiny pancake/ringfield motors in them and hter too small i mean there that many points of contact before it even get to move let alone carry a few carriages behind it.. cheers and thanks from john in Australia.
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You know I would never have thought in a million years to use a nut, to help put the gear back on!
Good video as usual Bill, thanks. Re the Datsun Cherry; usually the bodies had rotted away before the clutch needed replacing!!
Yeah I had to have the door skins replaced on mine because the wing mirrors fell off due to rust. The clutch went in the middle of nowhere on the A68. Got rid of it soon after.
Always a pleasure to watch you refresh these pieces. Thanks again.
Nice work Bill. I had a similar situation with a slightly older Hornby HST, screechy motor when it ran against the battery but, as it turned out, the main problem was a thick build-up of grime on the non-powered bogie's wheels, to the point it couldn't pick up power. It took a bit of shifting too! Nice work, sir. Thanks again! Keep Well, there. Cheers!
Hornby have recently ish re-tooled this model, and it is "All bells and whistles", super detailed, centre mounted motor, driving both bogies, and working lights. I don't have one as it costs a fortune. But it is something that was long over due on the model!
Sounds good but i would still prefer the older model myself !
The new one seems to have issues crossing frogs on points . It doesn’t derail but it noticeably falls into the frog because the bogie is too stiff . You can definitely hear it as it goes over points like a sort of controlled crash . Can’t be good long term . Not what you expect for something approaching £200 .
The power boggy is in the front of the Hornby Australian S class too and yes it does detail often I sold mine and got a Lima S class that has the power boggy in the back and it's a nicer model
A great sevice job as always... Your the Doc... Thanks always, and "Happy Rails"
thanx for taking time to reply to my query I asked as I have a few poor runners when I changed the magnet with neo`s they ran better any hoo thanx again
Yet another superb video Bill. I'd love to see you working on a 1960s BR blue Pullman. I think it would look superb running around your layout. I've always been a big fan of the 1960s diesel blue Pullman with it's front and end locomotives which look like where the 125s design came from. Keep them fantastic videos coming. Cheers.
Datsun cherry lol my very first car
My tender drive B17 had the same problem and I've done a temporary with a tiny drop of superglue on the pinion..
I doubt it will hold for ever, so I'll be watching this again at some point in the future.
Hi Bill another nice job completed,that's a really nice looking model to.
Quick way to have repaired this, clean the gear, clean the shaft, apply a dap of loctite 638 & you are done.
In fact 638 is overkill, it’s used a lot to bond wheels to axles in 5 inch gauge locomotives, both steam & battery electric.
The class 91 and it's associated set are my fav British hst trains, I got the same hornby one as in the vid but it hasn't run in 20 odd years. Currently working on building an n-gauge layout. I managed to find a 91 in gner livery but not in intercity swallow.
Hi Bill another great video, that model certainly gets a move on round your layout.
the pinion gear that is loose is a known problem with the alloy ones, get a brass replacement, lendons in cardiff do them really cheap
I think this must be a fairly common issue with these models . I’ve had it on an inter City 91 like this one and a GNER one . Never had a problem with any other Ringfield motors . Maybe it is specific to the alloy used for the gear on this model . I don’t have a vice, so from memory I used a bit of superglue on mine . You have to be very careful applying it . So far so good !
Well done Bill.
Nice job bill 👍
Great little car was the Cherry
I passed my test in one. Bought a used one a few years later. Nice wee car in it's day but had rust issues as did a lot of cars back then.
@@oobill I had mine when I was working in the UK, driving buses around Oxfordshire. I really wish I could have bought it back to Australia with me.
hi bill you frequently re-magnetize the X04 motors is it possible the same re-magnetizing can be used to re-magnetize the ringfield magnets
Yes you can. But it's rarely needed. A ring magnet keeps it's own power even if you remove it from the motor. Also they break quite easily so I tend not to do it unless I think it really needs it. X04/3 and old Dublo motors tend to loose their magnetism because people remove the magnets. Some of these old magnets will lose their power almost instantly when removed. So that's why you see me remagnetising those motors more than any other.
Good fix bill, and have you managed to sort out your shuttle service .
Work in progress. Layout update vid coming soon.
Hi Bill I have sorted out my loft and found some various hornby trains plus wagons etc. One of the trains has not been used which is a 16440 that came as a package called the Country Local. I have tried running some of the trains and they are not running. I watch all your youtube video's with great interest, so would like to look deeper into why they are not running. So if you can help me, where is the best place for spares if I need them. Hope I am not a pain, what oil do you use, and where to get the small syringe, and the aerosol for cleaning.
Thank you Bill
The syringe is (or at least mine is) a Gaugemaster GM619 and is filled with a lifetime supply of drops :)
My own take on which oil to use as a refill is a thin (low viscosity) mineral oil.
The aerosol is just contact cleaner (sometimes known as switch cleaner). It's designed to break down carbon-based material such as model train gunk, human flesh etc, so be careful :)
@@kitmoore9969 thank you Kit For the information. Charlie
I have just started my first clean/restore on a gifted loco, but on opening i found loads of oil all over the motor, what is the best thing to remove the oil please. many thanks for your very informative videos.
Give it a good spray with WD40 Contact Cleaner. Don't try to brush it just degrease it with the contact cleaner and let it dry. Some dirt and oil in the windings won't do any harm. Get the commutator clean and any excess oil from the rest of the armature and that'll do.
@@oobill thankyou very much. oh well here we go. next stop, the the the work bench aka, the tray with a rubber mat.
Hi Bill ,, yet another good informative video. 😁
?? I'm in the process of replacing a few pancake motors and ringfield motors to do the cd drive motor conversions and have bought the conversion kit and the 8 teeth drive cogs that I bought from england and i am using my own motors that ive pulled out of cd drives and old printers which fit these cd drive conversion motor holders.
Now the cogs on 3 of these motors iv pulled out already have plastic drive cogs on them but they have a different amounts of teeth on them as in 1 has 11 teeth and the other 2 have 12 teeth. They all seem to mesh quite well as far as i can see so far. Now if there is more teeth will this make the motor run faster or will be slower as i want to do a replacement cd drive conversion on a virgin hst I have here.
If you (or anyone) could let me know which way this will go that would be great and muchly appreciated.
Cheers from John in Australia.
Imagine that your 11-tooth cog is running along a rail, and each tooth is 1mm wide. For each turn of the cog, it will move 11 teeth, or 11mm, along the rail. If you fit a 12-tooth instead, it will move further - 12mm.
If the cog rotates once a second an 11-tooth cog will drive the train at 11mm/sec and a 12-tooth cog will run at 12mm/sec.
Cogs attached to motors (drivING) get faster as they get bigger. If the cog on the wheel (drivEN) gets bigger you'll need to shift more teeth per second just to maintain speed.
@@kitmoore9969 thanks for that. Im putting these into a couple of the 16 wheel (40 class i think) and the motors are crap,and cant get spares for them and they only have them tiny pancake/ringfield motors in them and hter too small i mean there that many points of contact before it even get to move let alone carry a few carriages behind it.. cheers and thanks from john in Australia.
Just serviced my 225. What’s the switch for on the top of the loco?
Probably for switching power between the track and overhead wires?
hi bill how much do you charge to service and repair loco,s..best wishes.jpj
How do anyone get hold of bill?
Bills email address is in about. On his channel page