How did you do the batten along the sliding door edge please (this is lower than the ridges so wouldn’t naturally be flush with the rest of your battens?)
hmmm. I've seen quite a few vids on insulation and I really dont think the way you've done it is the best way. Far better to use thicker (36mm) batons in the dipped channels going front-to-back and stick with sikaflex. I believe the recessed gap is 11mm, so you'll automatically create 25mm clearance for celotex board installation. Then silverfoil the joins, cover with ply and screw to batons. This way theres no drilling into the metal floor at all
Did you decide not to foil tape over the batons because you thought it unnecessary? Some people do, like creating a vapor barrier. My van has a raised floor of three inches, no foam or vapor barrier, it's fine as I've checked and it's been that way for 28 years. The boards on my walls are ( from memory ) 3 mm ply then 3 mm insulation then 3 mm hard plastic backed plywood all sandwiched together, no vapor barrier or other insulation. The ceiling and down to 12 inches has 1 inch insulation for the most part. Plastic surfaced plywood for half the ceiling and leatherette on the rest. There is definitely plenty of ventilation in it and in cold weather my heater is on constantly lol. No rot or damp though except once when I was parked in a shaded place for months without the vents on the sides of the ceiling open. The mold was starting to form on the leatherette ceiling. It was easily cleaned off with a little bleach and water, opened the vents and now park where it gets more sunlight in winter. I've never had a problem since. My van was factory fitted ( Talbot express ) by auto homes. It's been refitted/modernized a few years ago but all was well with no rust or hidden damp. It would be nice if it was insulated properly but because so much ventilation is important in such a small space, I wonder if it's really needed to the extremes I've seen others do. Makes me wonder if some people are perhaps running a risk of trapping moister that gets in behind the barrier but can't get out. At least without one it can dry out if you know what I mean. Closed cell foam and no vapor barrier may do just as good a job. Sorry for the long post, this has been going round in my head for some time as I'm thinking of perhaps getting another van to do myself. I'll have to wait to see what you've done now lol. 👍
good job
How did you do the batten along the sliding door edge please (this is lower than the ridges so wouldn’t naturally be flush with the rest of your battens?)
hmmm. I've seen quite a few vids on insulation and I really dont think the way you've done it is the best way. Far better to use thicker (36mm) batons in the dipped channels going front-to-back and stick with sikaflex. I believe the recessed gap is 11mm, so you'll automatically create 25mm clearance for celotex board installation. Then silverfoil the joins, cover with ply and screw to batons. This way theres no drilling into the metal floor at all
I agree it’s not a good way. No vapour barrier and that expanding foam is bad news.
Agree, and thanks because this is way i don't need to drill holes i will use sikaflex.
Buen vídeo enhorabuena.
Did you decide not to foil tape over the batons because you thought it unnecessary? Some people do, like creating a vapor barrier.
My van has a raised floor of three inches, no foam or vapor barrier, it's fine as I've checked and it's been that way for 28 years. The boards on my walls are ( from memory ) 3 mm ply then 3 mm insulation then 3 mm hard plastic backed plywood all sandwiched together, no vapor barrier or other insulation.
The ceiling and down to 12 inches has 1 inch insulation for the most part.
Plastic surfaced plywood for half the ceiling and leatherette on the rest.
There is definitely plenty of ventilation in it and in cold weather my heater is on constantly lol. No rot or damp though except once when I was parked in a shaded place for months without the vents on the sides of the ceiling open. The mold was starting to form on the leatherette ceiling. It was easily cleaned off with a little bleach and water, opened the vents and now park where it gets more sunlight in winter. I've never had a problem since.
My van was factory fitted ( Talbot express ) by auto homes.
It's been refitted/modernized a few years ago but all was well with no rust or hidden damp.
It would be nice if it was insulated properly but because so much ventilation is important in such a small space, I wonder if it's really needed to the extremes I've seen others do. Makes me wonder if some people are perhaps running a risk of trapping moister that gets in behind the barrier but can't get out.
At least without one it can dry out if you know what I mean.
Closed cell foam and no vapor barrier may do just as good a job.
Sorry for the long post, this has been going round in my head for some time as I'm thinking of perhaps getting another van to do myself.
I'll have to wait to see what you've done now lol. 👍
Hi, just watched your first video and subscribed, is that it or are there any other videos of the build? Thanks.
No updates ?
Man i wouldn't have put all these holes in the floor every hole is a potential rust hole.