Great vid as usual mate. Wow what a bargain. $3500 is the block only from mitsubishi here in Australia, its funny how good the OEM dump pipe actually is even though it looks like poo poo. But a nice dump/front pipe with blended wastegate pipe would look the bizz and free up the breathing of the 4G.
The short blocks on the STM website are still like $4,200, so you still need to know where to shop around. I like my external hood dump on the black car. I'll probably switch this o2 housing out soon enough. But for now, just trying to make this thing driveable.
For a car near stock power levels, why go with a twin disc clutch? Also, is there any difference in pedal pressure between a single and twin disc clutch? TIA.
This car should be over 400 all wheel horsepower. Not stock power levels IMO. This ACT twin has a lighter pedal feel than my old single disc ACT did. Even if i was complete stock power level, a twin would still help if you planned to launch/race the car a decent amount.
@@BoostedFilms Got it. When I said "near stock power levels" I guess I was contrasting stock turbo+bolt-ons to the crazy built 700 HP jobs that seem to be all over TH-cam. But to the point - would you recommend this clutch for a DD over a single disc unit? I'm trying to understand when multi-disc clutches start being worth it, and why.
@@ltskinol Ah yes, good question. If you are mostly street driving with under 500 torque, you could stick with a single disc heavy duty clutch. If you plan to launch a lot and/or are running over 550 torque, you could probably benefit from a twin disc.
Paul, at 6:45 you show the J pipe. I was wondering if you knew where that small tube goes. It looks like a vacuum line port. I noticed this on my evo 9 and I ended up capping it from what I remember. What did you end up doing with that tube?
The transmission was a super unknown. Luckily it seems to shift fine, but it will probably be dropped again next year. I also hesitate to say i "fixed" any rust at this point. I just cleaned things up a bit and tried to help prevent the spread of rust. And finally, most importantly, this was all on Andy's time. So the main reason i did not spend any time cleaning thing up more is i want to utilize his time the best I could. Also "Ugly evo build" ha :)
@@BoostedFilms Great work nevertheless in restoring the car. Is there any specific reason why you decided to go with an OEM shortblock over rebuilding the existing one?
@@K2theK-b6u Thanks! I'd buy 5 OEM short blocks if I could. Even if i saved money getting the old engine re-built, i'd certainly pay more for a brand new OEM engine. If you don't plan to run over 450-500 HP, the OEM brand new short block can not be beat... IMO.
@@BoostedFilms ALRIGHT SO i finally got my engine in lol but heres my issue. Did you have any issue with your crossmember brace not aligning to the front stop mount on the transmission? im having issue where its not aligning it seems like the engine is sticking out too far... I got all new Torque Solution 5 Speed mount kit all around except the rear. All mount is mounted except the front. Any tricks? (Evo is a 9MR 6SPD and now swapped to a Shep 5SPD).
Nothing beats experience 👍🏼 Great job guys!
Again thank you for taking up some of your time to post another awesome video!!
👍
Great vid as usual mate.
Wow what a bargain. $3500 is the block only from mitsubishi here in Australia, its funny how good the OEM dump pipe actually is even though it looks like poo poo.
But a nice dump/front pipe with blended wastegate pipe would look the bizz and free up the breathing of the 4G.
The short blocks on the STM website are still like $4,200, so you still need to know where to shop around. I like my external hood dump on the black car. I'll probably switch this o2 housing out soon enough. But for now, just trying to make this thing driveable.
For a car near stock power levels, why go with a twin disc clutch? Also, is there any difference in pedal pressure between a single and twin disc clutch? TIA.
This car should be over 400 all wheel horsepower. Not stock power levels IMO. This ACT twin has a lighter pedal feel than my old single disc ACT did. Even if i was complete stock power level, a twin would still help if you planned to launch/race the car a decent amount.
@@BoostedFilms Got it. When I said "near stock power levels" I guess I was contrasting stock turbo+bolt-ons to the crazy built 700 HP jobs that seem to be all over TH-cam. But to the point - would you recommend this clutch for a DD over a single disc unit? I'm trying to understand when multi-disc clutches start being worth it, and why.
@@ltskinol Ah yes, good question. If you are mostly street driving with under 500 torque, you could stick with a single disc heavy duty clutch. If you plan to launch a lot and/or are running over 550 torque, you could probably benefit from a twin disc.
Glad to see this built coming along nicely. Are you planning to install the FPBlack you showed a few episodes back?
Thanks. I sold the FP Black once i realized how much i would need to invest in this sliver evo to get it going.
Paul, at 6:45 you show the J pipe. I was wondering if you knew where that small tube goes. It looks like a vacuum line port. I noticed this on my evo 9 and I ended up capping it from what I remember. What did you end up doing with that tube?
The nipple on the j-pipe? People usually use that for the boost source for a boost controller.
I would have painted the transmission case and tcase to give it that new look, since you already fixed most of the rust.
The transmission was a super unknown. Luckily it seems to shift fine, but it will probably be dropped again next year. I also hesitate to say i "fixed" any rust at this point. I just cleaned things up a bit and tried to help prevent the spread of rust. And finally, most importantly, this was all on Andy's time. So the main reason i did not spend any time cleaning thing up more is i want to utilize his time the best I could. Also "Ugly evo build" ha :)
@@BoostedFilms Great work nevertheless in restoring the car. Is there any specific reason why you decided to go with an OEM shortblock over rebuilding the existing one?
@@K2theK-b6u Thanks! I'd buy 5 OEM short blocks if I could. Even if i saved money getting the old engine re-built, i'd certainly pay more for a brand new OEM engine. If you don't plan to run over 450-500 HP, the OEM brand new short block can not be beat... IMO.
great vid
What site did you use to by the OEM Block?
www.mitsubishidirectparts.com/
How’s the act twin disk after over a year?
All good so far. Watch the driving impressions video here: th-cam.com/video/2fdooIWThKM/w-d-xo.html
Dam my engine has been done since March and it’s still not in my evo yet 😭
I installed my motor on a weekend by myself without any previous experience other than watching youtubes
@@jethrox827 I literally hand built my whole engine by myself minus the machine work. No motivation to put it back in 🙃
@@monglor6978 That should be the extra motivation! Good luck with it. :-)
@@BoostedFilms ALRIGHT SO i finally got my engine in lol but heres my issue. Did you have any issue with your crossmember brace not aligning to the front stop mount on the transmission? im having issue where its not aligning it seems like the engine is sticking out too far... I got all new Torque Solution 5 Speed mount kit all around except the rear. All mount is mounted except the front. Any tricks? (Evo is a 9MR 6SPD and now swapped to a Shep 5SPD).