Exhaust pipe removal from the horizontal cylinder is a must on the 696 to get straight into the vertical belt tightener allen bolt. They strip quite easily at an angle if the pipe is left on and they're $10 each plus the wait of shipping from Italy . Ask me how I know.
Hi, the allen key method is very helpful. The question I have, is why is it important for the central pulley to be lined up with the marker and notch IF you have marked the belts, crank pulleys and case to line up, and counted the teeth, so long as the central pulley, hasnt moved from the starting position, when you start the job? If the pulleys remain in place from the starting position and you slip the old belts on and new on (having counted the teeth), should that do it, once tensioned correctly? About to do this job myself and getting a little concerned i'll get it wrong and blow the engine. I have it all apart ready, well, at least with the covers and exhaust off, full access and ready to go, withnew belts in post. So im already invested in doing this myself...
Thanks for that, Since Iceland has no Ducati dealer and I dont trust anyone to do it correctly I must do it myself, nice to have a refrance guide
Just did my S2R800 with your help. It had 4300 miles and 18 years old belts.Thanks!
I also need to replace my timebeltnon my 1100 Evo…8700km only on the clock but 11 yrs old 😂
@@mryugo7829 Did you do this? About to do the belts on my 1100
Exhaust pipe removal from the horizontal cylinder is a must on the 696 to get straight into the vertical belt tightener allen bolt. They strip quite easily at an angle if the pipe is left on and they're $10 each plus the wait of shipping from Italy . Ask me how I know.
Yeah, makes sense to remove it since it doesn't take much time and gives you more access.
gorgeous dog you have. And it always help to have a helping paw or two. :)
Thanks for sharing this. It was a helpful video! I've got a M1200S and I'm guessing the process should be similar.
Glad it helped! Should be a similar process for other models.
Hi, the allen key method is very helpful. The question I have, is why is it important for the central pulley to be lined up with the marker and notch IF you have marked the belts, crank pulleys and case to line up, and counted the teeth, so long as the central pulley, hasnt moved from the starting position, when you start the job? If the pulleys remain in place from the starting position and you slip the old belts on and new on (having counted the teeth), should that do it, once tensioned correctly?
About to do this job myself and getting a little concerned i'll get it wrong and blow the engine. I have it all apart ready, well, at least with the covers and exhaust off, full access and ready to go, withnew belts in post. So im already invested in doing this myself...