What is the strongest 3D printing material
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ต.ค. 2024
- Check out Polymaker's Polyflex TPU for yourself: amzn.to/3ZOp2oe
For most of the things you 3D print, PLA is probably all you need. But what if you need something that can take a hit and keep on going? Then you might have to be a little flexible.
Be sure to like, subscribe, share and enjoy.
3D Printing Professor is made possible by YOU!
www.3dpprofess...
I'm social!
/ discord
mastodon.onlin...
/ 3dpprofessor
/ 3dprofessor
Buy the Beginner's Guide to the 3D Printing Galaxy on Amazon: amzn.to/2ws7OiT
Shop on Amazon to support the channel: bit.ly/3DPPrin...
Follow my other 3D printing adventures at: www.3dpprofess...
Join the mailing list and never miss anything important: bit.ly/3DPPnews
All music by Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommon...
But what about supports? www.3dpprofessor.com/2023/03/08/whats-the-strongest-3d-printing-material/
I just just supports. At the end of the vid it sounds like you would try flex PLA from the new Cura?
Heavy interface on top of the support, big gap and sparse interface layer towards the part for one layer does well for me with high cooling, increased cooling when printing onto a support helps cutting it off with a knife afterwards. Turns out knives slice TPU like butter so be very careful if you have to have supports. I love TPU, I wish there were 99shore hard TPUs and down to 60shore in all the colors it might be all I use for 90% of prints.
Is there a printer out there that can print in Tantalum Hafnium Carbide? It's melting point is over 7,000 degrees Fahrenheit. Acetylene burns at around 6,300 F so how about lasers?
@@TheWadetube NASA has a few robot lasers that weld exotic material in a FFF fashion… not sure 🤔 what the application for your needs are beyond a thought experiment.
@@MakerBees333 A super high pressure rocket engine, 1000 bar, 1000 seconds of impulse. Probably a printing nightmare.
I can confirm that nearly 2 years later, a trip to Colorado and back, and another trip to Arizona and back, it looks as good today as it did when you saw it in 2021.
I love TPU with high or 100% infill for rigid parts. It's weatherproof, unaffected by oils, solvents, and most chemicals, and like you say indestructible.
Do you think would be stiff enough for servo mounts or other RC parts ?
@@marcosdo995 Maybe not for parts that need to be really small/thin, but in general, absolutely.
Do you think this stuff would be good for fittings and connections?
I work at a car wash, and I've noticed a lot of plastic stuff like that and more that I think could potentially be 3D printed, since you mentioned TPU is resistant to most chemicals and all.
@@Archangel657 check for SLS printing with nylon 12 if you can't find the original replacements
It surprises me, cause I know some plastics (such as mouse wheel material), that seem like a rubber, but with age, it turns either into sticky disgusting something or into hard oil-soaked disgusting something and I also seen plastics that can degrade on contact with rubber - sort of like they can dissolve each other over the months or years of contant. But maybe TPU is different than rubber.
I would like to try it, but what puts me off is a need to dry it just before use - hard to say, people suggest that PETG and/or PCTG must be dried as well, I have no or not much noticeable issues with 40-50% RH during summer - winter will be better as dew point drops. And I don't know if it releases some smell during print, PETG is fine, PLA smells like ironing laundry a bit, PCTG has very unpleasant smell of burning plastics at 270C, hopefully it's not strong.
FWIW I have no issues printing 95A TPU at 100% infill, on a stock Ender 3 Pro with a Bowden tube, and at speeds up to 40-50mm/s. I recommend lowering extruder tension almost all the way. You can use high retraction distance and speed to combat stringing too. I've been fine with up to 12mm retraction at 30-40mm/s. Dial in your temperature as well and you can get great looking, string free, ultra strong, and very useful prints. Going direct drive just means you can use much less retraction and attain higher speeds. It's definitely worth using TPU!
Holy.. 12mm retraction sounds absurd but i believe you. The ender 3 actually is good for tpu because of the bowden hotend. On all metal hotends i find that TPU has a lot more issues with retraction because the filament cools and has more resistance in the metal cold end.
@@Javii96 I've gone to direct drive now with a Sprite SE and it still prints quite well. Better if anything. The all metal hotend I have swapped to as well can cause a bit more oozing, but there are ways to compensate for that. I use 0.8mm retraction with the direct drive which is still over double what I use with most filaments. I've printed some great functional and fun parts like a hollow black TPU Gengar. TPU isn't scary, but Gengar is. 😂
@@802Garage i actually just switched to the sprite extruder on my ender 3 last week. Still trying to find a better mounting solution for the phaetus dragon UHF i bought… it’s a great hotend but it’s ridiculously tall lol. Printed TPU with it today and it did great other than some random layers were underextruded. Not sure what that’s about. You’re right though TPU really isnt scary even with bowden its just slow.
I love your delivery in this video. It's goofier and more fun to watch. If this was a trial to see how it sits with the audience then, well, I'd say stick with it. Most fun I've had watching one of your videos in a long time. Sorry if this sounds condescending at all, it was simply meant as a compliment and a thumbs up.
I actually appreciate that. I've noticed a decline in my views and I'm thinking something needs to change. So I'm glad to hear it was noticed.
Hopefully it'll bear out in the view numbers.
As a model aircraft builder, TPU is essential. It protects expensive electronics such as cameras, bumps in carbon fiber rods and many other. TPU is my go to material when subjecting parts to crashes over 100km/h.
Im planning on building a drone and 3d printing the frame. Would you recommend tpu because it strikes me that it would just flex and bend and not be rigid enough while being strong?
if you print the drone with high infill, as said in the video you should be good, i printed a drone out of tpu a few month ago and it didint break since, its amazing how it just bends back after a crash instead of snapping like pla would@@StrykeFPS
@@StrykeFPS it depends, for videography drones it can work, but make the battery holding section out of something rigid. I replaced loads of parts on my holy stone HS720R with tpu to save weight and it is still holding up fine. for high speed FPV drones, the main frame would be better if it is a more solid material to prevent flexing when flying at high speeds or doing fast manouvres
I really appreciate this video! I've been using TPU for a couple years now with a combination of PLA to make 3D printed action figures that are very poseable and snap together. Been working great. TPU is my favorite material to print. Thanks for posting this!
Ooh. When you say combined with PLA, do you mean in the same print, or different prints you assemble after?
As a mechanical engineer I just introduced 3d printing at my company with an Ultimaker S5 and I gotta say: I print a lot of TPU and it impresses me every time. You can’t even break this stuff if you want to😂
This is the kind of performance I have been waiting for.. I have been holding off getting a 3d printer but I need one now!
@@CL-yp1bstpu has been around a while lol
I discovered how strong TPU was (with amazing layer adhesion) recently too. I've also found that I can print Polymaker's High Flow TPU-95A rather fast. I was about to print a passable Benchy in less than 15 mins.
It does need to be kept dry though. It might be a challenge for people who don't have a filament dryer of some kind.
so far i have printed tpu without a dryr, but did dry it beforehand in an oven, and have had zero issues with it running longer prints. it could vary between manufacterers though
Sir, the way you tell that story, is simply AWESOME. May God bless you.
This was a story?
great update on the 3D materials.
I used it as a anti-glide layer on a PetG surface. It worked fine, with the same temperature settings as PetG, because the PetG was at the underside, and sticking to the headbed at 85 C, but it was cooler at the printsurface (PetG), so it worked great.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts with all of us 👍😀
Id love to see a 60D or 80D TPU filament to become mass market for structural uses that can't be so flexible. That hardness can come in really handy for the rigidity.
I printed a McGuybeer octopus at ~200% in TPU and it's ridiculously resilient. And all the legs articulate same as a PLA print. But I think a lot of dragons and other models that have bridging for joints will struggle to print correctly. The octopus joints are basically rings with small overhang demands. Something to keep in mind when thinking about possible prints with TPU.
Yeah, I once printed a 'print in place hinge' in TPU... didn't work as planned. I think it had tolerances designed so that if printed in PLA or such, the two parts would either remain separate, or any unwanted connection would break when working the hinge. With TPU... I just ended up with an awkwardly shaped live hinge.
For painting TPU cosplay I'd likely use acrylic paints. I haven't tried painting TPU yet but I have painted a leather back patch with acrylic paint and sealed it with Mod Podge, so far it's not cracked at all, you'd just need to do it in multiple thin layer
Well mechanically it's rigidity is on par with ABS and PETG 2400MPa half of PLA 4000MPa it's Youngs modulus ( E )
Steel is 210000MPa and concrete 30000MPa
Strength is a whooping 145MPa at 450%
Steel is 360MPa at 8%
PLA hovers around 60MPa at less than 2%
PETG and ABS is 20-30MPa but elongates like steel
Concrete is crushed at 30MPa and torn at 3MPa at less than 2%
Shore hardness is another story
Which just goes to show that "strength" is dependent on a lot of factors.
@@3dpprofessor yes structural engineering is fun in that aspect
Honestly 98A TPU is one of my favourite filaments. I print a bunch of it on my Prusa MINI. 98A is absolutely *fine* in a bowden.
TPU is critically underrated. Basically eliminating the shattering failure mode makes parts sooo much stronger
Coincidentally, I just made a CAD model of a ski/hiking pole component for my brother and printed it out of TPU right before watching this video. I think it might actually perform better than the original hard plastic component. It's a strange little split cylinder with internal threading and a cone shape that gets clamped down on. The original was injection molded out of PVC I believe due to a number 3 on the part. I think the TPU version will grip better and be easier to clamp down, but we'll see!
I love polymaker's TPU95-HF, it prints nearly like PLA and with the high melt index you can print it at PLA speeds.
I was just about to comment the same thing! My experience with HF TPU has been game changing! If I could successfully paint it, I would skip so many other filaments to save up and use it all the time.
Overture has a cheap high speed TPU that works similarly. It's what I use.
So it's not a marketing thing, printing with up to 60mm/s ? It really works?
What about the durability of the TPU95-HF?
@@jone.1034 Well there are lots of things that can limit the speed like extruder grip and filament narrowing due to tension (stretch) reducing grip, but yes, 60 is very doable. I regularly use it at 200+, with high flow nozzle, and it doesn't hard fail for me until over 300 (underextruding before that, though). I haven't tried the polymaker but the overture is as tough as expected. I forget the results but at one point I did a test crushing it between washers with a torque wrench.
@@jone.1034 I reliably print it on a cheap SV05 at 100mm/sec with a .8 nozzle.
Durability seems to be exactly the same, I have not used TPU to a breaking point even in heavy duty functional parts.
HF TPU does seem to cut with a box cutter and scissors easier, no idea why.
Printed a lanyard for my Subaru's gas cap years ago, to replace the original one that broke, and it's still working fine. TPU is pretty hygroscopic and needs to be dried out from time to time. I think I read that the newer PLA+ filament has TPU added to it.
Thank you for such an informative video. Fantastic 👍
I like using TPU95. For parts that need a lot of detail I use PLA as TPU can be stringy. My most recent project was a split 3x6 column staggered keyboard. I printed the case and key caps in PLA and then printed a TPU shell for drop/impact resistance. Love it.
Good stuff! Inspiring! Much love to Polymaker btw, they have amazing filaments!
One thing that should be added to your video: TPU is incredibly abrasion-resistant. Take a look at how many use it for tires on 3D printed RC cars (big ones), just for one example.
My experience, though, is that it's also slippery. Tires need to be a little more flexible. I feel like the right geometry might be what it needs, but I haven't found it yet.
Though, I'm not searching that hard.
@@3dpprofessor Yeah, I have some (discontinued) Inland TPE that was much grippier than the TPUs I've used. The TPE feels more like a silicone while the TPU feels more like vinyl (like a vinyl shower curtain when it's brand new).
I wasn't saying the tires are a good use case, just one that shows how durable TPU is, since it's being driven on (abrasive) concrete and not leaving the slightest mark on the prints. :)
Oh man, I've been using various grades of TPU for many years for all manner of engineering prints! That stuff is great for so many things. Everything from 60A for RC tires (still not as good as true rubber compounds for crawlers), robot treads, and semi-grippy wraps and nubs to 98A for housings and brackets. I've used it for special purpose multi-directional strain devices and vibration damping items. Stupendous stuff in many applications. Six years ago when my kid was really little, kid toys printed in it..amazing durability!
Hey boss you seem well knowledgeable in this , I'm very green , I'm looking to buy a sla 3d machine because what I've told is stronger then fdm or whatever, but I need to print a piece to be similar to metal because that's what I'm trying to duplicate ,but it needs to take abuse and not subject to heat , what would you recommend sir ?
Great arguments for using TPU, which you could also probably sleep on. :)
I mean... yeah, you could!
Mattresses and mattress top surfaces are literally made out of polyurethane foam, so in a sense you DO sleep on it. I'm not sure if it's a thermoplastic variety or not, though.
Thanks For This!! You've got my wheels turning!!!
Thank you for this video, I was having a hard time figuring out which filaments to use for as new project, and this helped me pull the trigger on a roll of TPU.
Calling TPU the strongest is a bit like saying rubber is stronger than a high carbon steel knife because the rubber won't break when hit with a hammer. Shear strength for instance is likely even lower than PLA.
I suppose "toughest" would have been a better word
TPU rocks. It's been my best buddy for the last few years for functional prints.
Rubber bands seem to degrade by getting hard, brittle, and then break over time, printing a TPU band for your phone holder would be a great stretchy replacement that would last.
I love printing with TPU, and just like how you found that it's hard to break or even cut with a knife, I've found that even with just 2 walls and almost no infill I could print something that wouldn't break as long as the print orientation made sure the force didn't shear against the layer lines.
yield strength, ultimate tensile strength, stress against strain, Young's Modulus... and the area under the stress versus strain line is the toughness... toughness is what TPU has
I had a case where a partially flexible gear in a toy from my kids has stripped all teeth. So I took the gears dimensions and reprinted it in TPU. I even printed it partially hollow and not solid and it turned out much better than the original gear and was pretty much unbreakable. My TPU however is not that far on the flexible side.
But I don't know how well it would hold up in a car interior. One downside is that it is usually twice as expensive than regular PLA because it usually costs the same as PLA but comes only on 500g rolls in most cases where I see it being sold.
Old comment but it can withstand hot car temperatures great. I put a temperature heat deflection test on my dash this summer and it is still straight as an arrow. PLA drooped the first day and even PETG warped. The only filaments that have survived are ABS/ASA, TPU, and nylon. Plus TPU is still resilient in cold temperatures.
i started printing because off my FPV drones hobby, i designed a dome that would hold the electronics out off tpu. Not only would it not break but it would absorb the impact and protect the components inside withoud flexing to much to do damage anyways. And you need only a very small amount off material to get this kind off properties
I was testing printing ultimate frisbee disks with TPU and found that PETG will stick to it ok but PLA doesn't like to bond with it. A few layers of PETG with the rest TPU helps to stiffen up the flight plate for a frisbee.
Very interesting.
Huh, I've only used TPU for functional items, gaskets, camera lens covers/cases, 'rubber feet' for electronics. Haven't thought of using it for toys, I might have to give it a try.
It's my latest favorite material. I literally only print with PLA+ and TPU now.
If I need hardened materials, I use PLA+, anneal it or both. If I need soft construction, I use TPU, and then add more infill to get the strength factor needed.
I found that if I try to tear TPU at 1 layer thick (.2mm) I can do it with some effort.
At 2 layers, I actually burn my skin trying to tear in and it warps and is extremely difficult to break.
At 3 layers, it's an extremely resiliant construction and can take on nearly anything, only giving out to serration and puncture wounds lol.
Check out PLA flex
It prints like pla, doesn't stink or jam up the nozzle, but has tpu like properties. Catch is that it's very hydroscopic
I know this is an older video now but wanted to throw in my experiences with tpu as well. I've used it mostly for making cases for electronic devices and semi delicate tools. I work in construction and its protected some fairly expensive laser levels, center finders etc bouncing around in my gang box. Also has cut down on my replacement of vapes when I drop them from small and some larger heights. I also printed some riser feet for my ender 3 v2 years ago with pla tops that connect to the extrusions and tpu bottoms for grip and a little shock absorption. They've held up great but one is starting to slide in the extension channels a little easily sure to the pla, but the vond between the two materials is great.
I print thin keychains out of Inland TPU @100% infill, fine resolution and it negates the “squeeze out” effect. As long as you print it super fine you can achieve solid TPU Pieces!!
been printing with pla for 8 yrs solid.. Never even tried another filament , never needed it.. When the home aluminum printers come out ill be first in line .
I've worked in injection molding and hydroforming and every job with abs, I knew was going to be a crappy one,
I LOVE TPU for its indestructibility and it's super easy to print given a direct drive extruder. I HATE nylon with a passion given it's warping a shrinkage and just plain orneriness. If you get a chance try my favorite filament in the world. Vexi-Flexx70 from Keene Village is a super hard (70 on the shore D scale-not to be confused with the completely different A scale) TPU that I use for gears or anywhere that calls for nylon. It's not cheap and it only comes in black and white but it is awesome!
Lost In Tech nailed settings and all the internals of the process for TPU on Bowden extruders. Just awesome learning! I did some motorcycle parts from TPU and users were amused: it's strong , it gives up but not break etc.
Hi!and what motorcycle parts did you print if it’s not a secret?
@@azamatT7 Missing gaskets on Honda CN250 helix airbox , plugs for throttle bodies sync ports for BMW, some set cover parts for SV650, bushings for Vaspa PK grips and my favourite - gasket for CN250 carburettor fuel bowl
Newb / novice here, you reminded me and gave me a reason to try tpu again in my Prusa mini. Had made some cable ties and well, didn't work out since... Ridged. TPU would be perfect for my cable ties! Thanks! Had initially tried a phone case which didn't go all that well. Lol
Thanks for the idea! .. For me, the barrier was always TPU's high cost (about 4-5x per kg compared to cheap PLA), but I just looked and this must have changed in the last 2 years - in Europe, we can now buy CR-TPU from Creality, or TPE from Gembird, both 1kg spools at about the same price as the cheapest PLA 1kg rolls! .. We'll see about the quality (also no Shore rating of any kind), but that's cheap enough to replace PLA for a lot of prints.
Just to make a small correction, PLA wasn't invented for 3D printing. Its origins go back much further than that. "In 1857, Marcellin Berthelot, a French chemist, discovered lactic acid, an organic acid, by hydrolyzing ammonium lactate." He later figured out how to produce it and industrial production began in 1930. "In 1932, Chemist Wallace Carothers of DuPont first synthesized high molecular weight polylactic acid (PLA) by direct polymerization of lactic acid, which marks the birth of PLA polymers." However, it didn't gain widespread use until the 80s.
You are technically correct (best kind).
@@3dpprofessor Thanks for the great vid!
I love TPU, I made a rubber mallet and was only around 50 or 60% infill otherwise it would have been hard as a rock. For those new to TPU, get a textured plate, unless you want to learn how good TPU adhesion is. There might be other methods like glue for smooth plates, but since I mostly use PTEG and TPU the textured plate is invaluable.
My Ender 3 handles TPU 95 really well. I've been experimenting with bimaterial prints using TPU for top & bottom layers, and PETG in the middle where I want rigid print in place joints. It works pretty well, the tricky part is the filament change. I have to slice the part twice, once for each material, then manually splice the gcode. Either that or use one material profile for both, just changing the temperature when I switch.
I only printed some door stoppers with TPU. I bought it for fun and barely used because I didn't have direct drive in the past. Now with bambulabs I might want to print more stuff with it despite it's a bit more costly for me.
Thank you! you get my subscribe for your awesome backdrop!
This has its uses for sure. For organic prints especially. But for some specific uses I don't want any flex in it. Still, great video learned something here.
While it is strong, its flexibility could also be a weakness. Often you want functional parts to be dimensional stable and not give with low stress. I wouldn't want my brackets to deflect/stretch under load.
It's a pretty strong material indeed, is extensively used in the fpv world to build bumpers for drones, and we're talking aircrafts that weight about 1Kg traveling at really high speeds (some of them reach or surpass 100kmh)
20% infill PLA and then apply copious amounts of cyanoacrylate glue until it stops absorbing it. It will be almost as strong as printing in carbon fiber filament, and much cheaper.
Doesn't sound cheaper. I get Carbon Fiber PETG for under £30/KG
@@TheAndyroo770 Well, the cheaper printers cant use carbon fiber, I'm sure super glue costs less than a carbon fiber capable printer.
Does that soak in somehow? Or are you building up the surface?
@@3dpprofessor I guess it soaks in between the layers.
Not sure how you'd do it, but if the printed part can hold baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) powder, it creates a hard fast curing substrate. For those talking about price, do not buy super glue in little tubes.
Awesome info; thank you!
I print both ASA with equal to and often better than results to that of PLA and 'PLA Plus' in print quality aesthetics alone. Sure, PLA is easy peasy to load into your printer, and use stock settings, and you WILL get an okay or good print if your Z offset is right and your bed is level and your printer is on a level stable surface. But an enclosure is more or less a must anyways as to avoid dust and all from getting into the rods, bearings, belts, bed, fans.. And I find ABS and ASA actually give off negligible 'fumes'. Use fans, and have a vent somewhere in your shop space. These time proven materials cost the same as PLA and even can be found for less. I find no reason to not use ASA, which has become my favorite overall, PETG gives me more headaches than I like, even though when it prints well, it prints WELL. What I will not argue on, is that PLA is probably the only filament that makes logical sense to use for shelf deco pieces, or maybe some mainly cosmetic enclosures and fixture for electronics projects that will not leave or go far for long from living spaces, and therefore will not be exposed to anything which will degrade it in any worth-measuring level. I can be considered a 'novice' at 3D printing so I may change my mind.. I am an old electronics nerd and only need to get CAD software down and my 3D printer will make the world my sandbox. But I may just buy a roll of TPU tonight..
Is your printer enclosed?
I am going to have to print my trailer hitch insert cover out of TPU, although PETG is working for that I'll bet TPU would be much better in the long run.
I'm new to 3D printing with an X1 Carbon . I want to custom make a vhook and make it very strong. Thanks for this info.
I got into 3D printing as a necessity of belonging to the FPV drone community n the twenty-teens. I thought everybody knew how excellent it is. You can get it noodle-soft like Ninjaflex, or super rigid like Armadillo.
Thanks! I wonder how TPU would work will fillers such a glass fiber?
If you take a look at the belts, the answer is right there
@jakobhansen1396 I can't extrude a belt. :) But I understand what you are saying. Glass fiber reinforced Polypropylene is another example of adding rigidity to an otherwise flexible material.
i have used tp for lens covers and for camera mounts on drones
Acrylic does flake off TPU if it flexes much. Sanding first might help..?
Give it a shot and let me know how it goes!
I did color some with sharpies a while back.
Oh the possibilities of printing in tpu 🔥🥵
Very insightful video thank you.
PETG has been shown to be more brittle than PLA. Its only advantage is heat resistance over PLA.
What material would you recommend for creating prototype RC Buggy/Truggy suspension arms? I need to create prototypes and have access to filament and SLA printers but PLA breaks way too easily. These parts are normally injection molded with some nylon content. You can search 1/8 buggy to find more info on the application.
That is an interesting problem. Maybe ABS? Vapor smooth it after, maybe.
This stuff is tough. Printed a freebie like ring with 20% infill on a bowden tube. Can hold over 200+ lb. before breaking.
So if you need a filament to print out something that needs to be strong and heat resistant what would you use? For example printing a firearm
So we're discussing using thermal plastics, designed to melt so that they an be formed into shapes, and asking what version of that would be heat resistant?
You want it to melt in the extruder, but then transition states and be less meltable after that?
There's already communities of people who print a lot of firearms. Myself, I've only done it one time for a video I have yet to make, and I've never fired it.
House paints or artists paints (that go on canvas) have a high latex flexibility that should stay on even with bending.
Give it a shot and let me know how it goes.
I really like TPU! At this point I just use TPU or PETG; I don't like the temperature problems with temperature, using PLA, as I print enclosures to use in cars and engine compartments.
TPU is incredibly rugged and can make more items than you would normally give credit to.
Everything that I have printed with TPU, turned out both indestructible for its use, and frankly way over-engineered!
As the Prof said; print slower ( I use Boden) and have some patience, but you will get the hang of is and make great objects.
Interesting video. My main problem with TPu is to find a good way to wield it. For now I've been quite unsuccessfull with every glue I tried.
Yeah... me neither.
Some of the other comments are saying to use a heat gun and squish them together when melty, but that seems... unreliable.
@@3dpprofessor I found some chemical product but none seems to be available for consummers in Canada. I'm making some test with DMSO but it seems very long to dissolve TPU.
TPU that's really cool material!
I made handlbars for my bike like 4 years ago. And are stil good👍
Has 3D printing been used to render close packed spheres as described by Kepler, Gauss, and Buckminster Fuller? Could close packing be used, macroscopically, to print super strong materials?
Dunno. I suppose a Buckminster Infill could be a fun option.
I use TPU for parts just as much as I use any other filament
i printed a phone case for my phone as i needed a durable case that would allow access to the usb port for a 3d scanner and not have to take the case off. not even 50 percent infill and can confirm its tough as hell, but i never had a drop test to see if it would protect my phone from the force of impact lol... even if i hit it with a hammer its not gonna do anything... proceeds to look at test block with intrusive thoughts to smash the hell out of it to actually see if it would hold lol.
The use in terms when discribing materials needs a lot of improvement in 3D printing community. TPU is not strong, it is tough. PLA/PLA+/PETG are strong materials as they have highest tensile strenghts. PLA is hardest and most brittle material. Obviously all of these properties change quite a bit between different brands.
As a designer you choose the material according to the use case. In exaggeration, you don't choose TPU/rubber if you need the strength of steel.
Hi there. I’m interested in what you said about never printing at 100% infill.
I’m working on a pet project printing some magnetic mountain bike pedals.
I’m relatively new to 3d print but have been designed and machining for years.
My plan was to print my pedal body solid to make it as strong as possible but what you said has got me questioning that. Plus I haven’t decided on what material to print the pedal body out of.
I’ve seen all the videos on carbon fibre filaments etc but I’d be interested to hear you view.
Cheers. Jamie
Thanks for reaching out.
First of all, you never print at 100% infill, because infill generally overlaps itself, which means you're putting more than 100% material inside the space, which results in slop out the sides. Generally 90% is practically solid.
However, if you're new to 3D printing, I recommend you print in PLA. Ignore what everyone says about material strength and whatnot, PLA is 3D printing in easy mode and it's good for 90% of the things you'll ever do, and right now you need success and experience before you start adding variables to your process. PLA will withstand enough damage and work well enough that you'll learn how to 3D print and you'll learn what works in your design. Then, after you've got some confidence and you've broken your first set of 3D printed pedals, you can experiment with different materials.
That's my take.
@@3dpprofessor Awesome. Thats sound advice.Thank you.
What I've been waiting / searching for is some type of TPU "glue"... Using the word glue to refer to a solvent that would weld two different TPU's together... think of how "Weld-On" or similar works on ABS or Polycarbonates by actually melting /welding the plastic together... Or "PLA Gloop" (or Weld-On) works the same way with PLA. I want to weld two (or more) different durometer TPU's together. Or even a solvent that could weld some TPU to a PLA or ABS part! Problem is, TPU is very resistant to most commonly available solvents.
Maybe you need... rubber cement!
@@3dpprofessor haha... I see what you did there! 😜
I've used a heat gun to heat TPU so the surface is just a little hotter than tacky and then pressed it together and it sticks like it was printed that way. I've also smoothed the surface with a heat gun too. Just be careful because although I've managed to fingerprint TPU without burning myself, it is possible you could get injured doing this. Perhaps thick gloves of some kind would help. TPU sticks well with polyurethane glue such as the brown Gorilla Glue, but it makes the material solid and brown, which is also potentially good if you want a stiffened part in an otherwise flexible piece.
TPU is some crazy stuff.
thank you sir
I think the issue you have with 100% infill is going to be down to nuances in e-step, flow calibration, and possibly pressure advance, if you can't lay it down in smooth layers side by side for surfaces, that sounds like you might want to try the calibration method of a 2-wall-thick cube with no top, bottom or infill, then measure the resulting wall thickness at the top edge to dial flow back. Even with E-steps 100% perfect and accurate, there is the fact of thermal expansion inside the nozzle, backpressure based on print speed etc, I print my PLA ~95-97% usually, else it's over-extruded even if e-steps are accurate. On prior generations of printer firmware, I've noted they would very often do things like intentionally set the e-steps to be a bit higher than needed, because if you're making things that don't need accurate dimensions, more is always better than less plastic, except for surface finishes!
It's true, you _might_ be okay with 100% infill depending on X Y or Z, but you _will_ be fine at 90%. So that's why I advise that generally.
But you're right, the problem used to be a lot worse than it is now because slicers were still growing up.
I find petg's only advantage is slightly higher melt temp and better sandability hut other than that inferior in every other way.
Good day Professor, would you please be so kind and tell me where Overture filament is manufactured?
Best regards.
No idea. Best to reach out to them.
Does it really matter, though?
Hello sir. Great video. Maybe you can help me out with my problem. I order some wheels for my RC car sla technology pa12 and they broke. What kind of 3d printing plastic i need to order?
If they were SLA, then you can't get the same wheels from an FDM 3D printer. That's a bit like saying "My framed house got a hole in the wall, what brick do I need to order to fix it."
SLA is 3D printing with a liquid resin cured with a UV light. FDM melt a noodle of plastic and squirts it out like a hot glue gun.
That said, if you want to attempt an FDM repair, TPU is probably the stuff you want to use.
ABS is my favorite, then Nylon, than PETG. Nylon is hard to print, until you modify your printer, and is is also indestructible. TPU is brilliant material, it just cost bit more. Some time you need rigidity and lightness, than only ABS can help you. PeTG more heavy, Nylon heavy and flaxy, PLA - usless, TPU - too flexy. All of is a brilliant materials (except PLA, it just for figurines, until you becomes a god of unealing) just has their own purpose.
would tpu be strong enough to form sheet metal around(hammer forming)? Say a 150mm cylinder at 100mm in length to form a half circle with the sheet metal?
For this I go back to an old saying of mine: "Give it a shot and let me know how it goes".
Eye opener
Great video. However I want to print RC parts. I think it would flex to much on a A-ARM of a Rc truck? What’s your input
Interesting question. Give it a shot and let me know how it goes.
Given how small the A-arms usually are, it would probably flex too much. However, you can literally print tires, bump stops, bumpers, body parts, A-arm protectors, and much more. Anywhere you want protection or some kind of buffer, it will definitely work.
Awesome video! Do you know which material is best for transmitting vibrations, and not absorbing vibrations? I need to 3D print a mount for a transducer and need maximum vibrations to transfer through the mount. I'm thinking ABS is best but not 100% sure.
That's an intersting question. I'd say some science would need to be applied, but I might try this one in TPU myself.
I can't point to an exact material, but you're gonna want to figure out which one has maximum rigidity. That rigidity will be what reduces absorption of energy. That said, you'll possibly have a more brittle product, so your application will have to consider that.
But what is then best to use for mechanical objects like radar wheels?
I say give TPU95 a try and see how it works.
I'm thinking about printing a falling wedge would TPU 95 resist repetitive strikes from an axe pounding on it?
That's an interesting question.
Best answer I can give is to science it out. Give it a shot and let me know how it goes.
Ink would probably be best to paint it if it's going to be flexed a lot. If not, then any paint will do.
I have four rolls of TPU and I just don't use it - and now I know I don't have a good excuse.
Can you do a video about TPU with the X1 carbon? Manufacturer says NOT to use TPU. One Podcaster said use TPU on the mount on the back of the X1 Carbon. Can you clarify for us newbs please?
I will have to look into it. I did all my TPU printing on my Prusa because I know it can handle it.
There's actually a problem with the build plate on my Bambu at the moment, so testing this may be a little while.
What about Heat deflection temperature and Vicat softening ? These are very relevant.
I can honestly say I've never thought about those questions.
Any thoughts on how TPU/Thermoplastic polyurethane, compares to Peak Victrix AM 200/PEEK/PAEK/PEKK?
It's much easier to print with. Doesn't require specialty high temp hardware. So there's that.
Amen!
How well does TPU bond with other 3d printed materials? I think the idea using a material hybrid technique has promise.
I know people who use PLA as a support material for TPU because while it bonds well enough while printing, the different mechanical properties separates afterwards easily.
So unless you design your geometry to hold on, it won't just hold by butting up against it.