Nice job! Just want to add that for air suspension vehicles before tightening any bushing upper or lower, put the car on the ground and start is up and wait 3-5mins until the height is automatically adjusted to normal height and then tighten the bushings. This is very critical. Otherwise they will rip within days/few miles. Had this done on my car. Time to redo.
I've done it just like you showed 3 years ago and today my ball joints seem tight still but when I did mine I removed the ball joint boots and really filled them them up with more grease than they came with and I preloaded all control arms as shown and when I had to change the intermediate CV Jack shaft I noticed after freeing up the top ball joint and taking the strut loose from the lower control arm to get the control arm down enough to move it to the side to get the CV shaft out that my lower control arms seem to move up and down pretty freely but the bushings look good but it's like the guide through the bushing has broke loose from the rubber bushing is that normal? I was thinking that they would still have some control to stand up without any pressure pushing down but they fall all the way down so I take a light and I'll look at that guide to see if it's moving but I'm moving the arm up and down it seems stationery but the rubber is free no longer bonded to it. I don't usually have a people reasonable loads on my front end pretty much just a driver. I have put a jack stand underneath my lower control arms when my car was pretty lover from front to back measure from my fender lower lip to the CV shaft with everybody says is around 15.5 inches on a 2011 Mercury Milan and then I tightened up the upper control arms the lower control arms I don't hear any banging or anything but the bushes look good they're not torn but I don't see the guide pin in the middle is no longer bonded to the rubber I don't know if that's normal for these types of bushings 2011 Mercury Milan Ford fusion Mazda double control arms on the lower
Shaking of steering wheel can mean many thing and yes worn or torn bushings could mean that since the vibrations are now enhanced, have a mechanic take a look into it
Good morning Dave, you use factory torque specs for tightening the bushings. The one thing to remember is that to torque the bushings at vehicle ride Hight so the bushing does not bind and eventually delaminate.
As illustrated in the video all rubber bushings are designed to isolate road shock in some way. Any compromised suspension bushing can cause noise and ride harshness.
Hi. thanks for the video, just a question. Is it true that Because the bushings are the main connection between the chassis and suspension system, they are under too much load from the weight of the engine and the front of the car?
Thank you for your question. First, we must understand the relationship between “main connection” and "load", for they are not the same. The load (force or weight of vehicle) will run down through the spring or strut. The reaction force (or opposite force) runs up through the bushings and ball joint and ultimately the tire. These two forces will balance themselves as the vehicle is sitting statically, or dynamically while driving down the road. This also means that the bushings are not the main connection between the chassis and suspension but only one of the connections. Bushings are designed with the proper stiffness to support the portion of the load of the vehicle including the weight of the engine and the front of the car.
I'm trying to buy my own bushings to save money and not get ripped off by the local mechanic garage. But I see there are so many different types available to my car (just a basic Pontiac, nothing fancy) - front lower forward, front lower *_inner_* forward, front lower *_rearward_* ...what do these mean?
Those are the positions the bushings are in and that lets you know where the bushing is located to replace. Once you are under car looking at them you will see where the bushings are for replacement
This video is amazing! 2 minutes and has all the information I was trying to get from 20 minute videos! Thanks!
Nice job! Just want to add that for air suspension vehicles before tightening any bushing upper or lower, put the car on the ground and start is up and wait 3-5mins until the height is automatically adjusted to normal height and then tighten the bushings. This is very critical. Otherwise they will rip within days/few miles. Had this done on my car. Time to redo.
Thank you. I've been wondering where the rotational movement comes from in a bushing, your graphic was very useful.
Fascinating and interesting. It would be nice to see more videos along these lines.
Thank you. I have been looking for this information. Spot on explaination.
The best ones in the market, thank you
This is what I am looking for! Thanks!
*Excellent video!*
Thank god I found this, first time doing it on my truck and I just about set it down cranked tight at full droop but I knew it just seemed wrong.
Great video, thanks!
Really informative, thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Amazing video. Very informative
Glad you liked it
Great explanation!
I've done it just like you showed 3 years ago and today my ball joints seem tight still but when I did mine I removed the ball joint boots and really filled them them up with more grease than they came with and I preloaded all control arms as shown and when I had to change the intermediate CV Jack shaft I noticed after freeing up the top ball joint and taking the strut loose from the lower control arm to get the control arm down enough to move it to the side to get the CV shaft out that my lower control arms seem to move up and down pretty freely but the bushings look good but it's like the guide through the bushing has broke loose from the rubber bushing is that normal? I was thinking that they would still have some control to stand up without any pressure pushing down but they fall all the way down so I take a light and I'll look at that guide to see if it's moving but I'm moving the arm up and down it seems stationery but the rubber is free no longer bonded to it. I don't usually have a people reasonable loads on my front end pretty much just a driver. I have put a jack stand underneath my lower control arms when my car was pretty lover from front to back measure from my fender lower lip to the CV shaft with everybody says is around 15.5 inches on a 2011 Mercury Milan and then I tightened up the upper control arms the lower control arms I don't hear any banging or anything but the bushes look good they're not torn but I don't see the guide pin in the middle is no longer bonded to the rubber I don't know if that's normal for these types of bushings 2011 Mercury Milan Ford fusion Mazda double control arms on the lower
Thank you for explaining this. Can improper tightening of these bushings cause steering wheel vibration or shimmy?
Shaking of steering wheel can mean many thing and yes worn or torn bushings could mean that since the vibrations are now enhanced, have a mechanic take a look into it
Great information.
Can you please help me by telling how much Torque is required for Toyota Prado VX? While tightening the Control Arm BUSHES?
Good morning Dave, you use factory torque specs for tightening the bushings. The one thing to remember is that to torque the bushings at vehicle ride Hight so the bushing does not bind and eventually delaminate.
What bushings are most important for car to minimize bump , besides shock ? Control arm most important ? What about tie rod ends and outtrr tie rod
As illustrated in the video all rubber bushings are designed to isolate road shock in some way. Any compromised suspension bushing can cause noise and ride harshness.
Now, can you help us understand why a bag of bushings is costing the DoD $90,000?
Fantastic! Thank u.
Good explanation.
THANK YOU!! this helped!!
Awesome info- thank you
Question: what do you mean by “full true”?
Hi. thanks for the video, just a question. Is it true that Because the bushings are the main connection between the chassis and suspension system, they are under too much load from the weight of the engine and the front of the car?
Thank you for your question. First, we must understand the relationship between “main connection” and "load", for they are not the same. The load (force or weight of vehicle) will run down through the spring or strut. The reaction force (or opposite force) runs up through the bushings and ball joint and ultimately the tire. These two forces will balance themselves as the vehicle is sitting statically, or dynamically while driving down the road. This also means that the bushings are not the main connection between the chassis and suspension but only one of the connections. Bushings are designed with the proper stiffness to support the portion of the load of the vehicle including the weight of the engine and the front of the car.
@@SPCAlignment can you do a video on body mount bushings or where can I find information on them , thanks
Super clear. Thank you, thank you, thank you…..
I'm trying to buy my own bushings to save money and not get ripped off by the local mechanic garage. But I see there are so many different types available to my car (just a basic Pontiac, nothing fancy) - front lower forward, front lower *_inner_* forward, front lower *_rearward_* ...what do these mean?
Those are the positions the bushings are in and that lets you know where the bushing is located to replace. Once you are under car looking at them you will see where the bushings are for replacement
Cheers 👍🏴😎
I loved the info
Very nice video
Sir I have LJ71 TOYOTA 1991 which nbr bushing nbr plzzz
No mention of Shore durometer (aka, elastomer hardness)..? That is negligent.
The best
：０
Add is Very Bad.
Great explanation