It looks like the resin was too cold when you mixed it. I usually warm both parts in a warm water bath to about 85F before mixing. This will get rid of the milky appearance and will result in a crystal clear epoxy pour.
As much as I hate corporate nonsense, you should make a checklist for your river tables. Means you can have each step laid out (split slab, flatten slab, make mold, apply mold release, yadda yadda...) And you know when it's done and by whom. Less steps forgotten and you've got a paper record to file away. Your shop is big enough to need this kinda stuff!
They probably do that already but pretending to fumble and bumble around is better content. These guys are pros, pretty sure they have their stuff together
The table top is really nice. Love the frosted look and the geometric shaoes but i think yout best creativity was that base. Totally makes the entire table. Brava!👏👏👏
It looks awesome. In my experience, when you want that level of clarity you need to go so far as to polish the resin to 3k minimum. Then wet sand and polish the finish to at least 10k grit. I know it’s a ton of work. But it is the only way I have managed to get the result I wanted.
to get the clear resin, you need to stir it slow speed until it clear up before pour it in the project. Most manufacturers recommendation for mixing time is not enough. Polishing is just to make shiny at the surface.
Every pour, complains about bubbles knows they should have sealed the wood. Every pour complains about the mold sticking, knows they should have used release.
Bubbles and sealed, now I'm no expert and I will never build one of these tables, they look cool but I have enough trouble with simple builds. However, I watched someone in Africa do a table poor while they were also selling a pour video guide and they do NOT seal wood edges ever anymore because they say they want the poor to penetrate the wood, and what do I know I know they do not seal edges before a poor and they might not think your comment makes sense. I know everyone who does stuff knows exactly how to do it and why they do it the way they do it :) Have fun with all your builds.
@@basildaoust2821yeah, but in this case he did say something along the lines of “I should have sealed it” and “I should have put mold release”, claiming the TH-cam upload schedule needed to be met, thus it coming out not perfect. I also have no idea on builds this big that envolves epoxy and how much these steps would have changed it, but to spend this much time and materials on some thing he knew how to do better is simply a stupid algorithm thing (and lack of planning for extra allotted time)
I liked that base... black steel contrasts beautifully with the walnut inlays and open spaces 😻 From what I understand (from Rybonator's resin dice videos), to get perfect crystal-clear epoxy you'd want to degas it in a vacuum chamber, pressure cast (not sure where you'd find a dining-table-sized pressure pot!) and then wet sand to 3000+ grit using things like Zona Paper.
@@davidkleinman4920 Agreed, I do not have a vaccuum chamber and I have built clear epoxy tables. I would not wet sand to 3000, but rather wet sand to 1000-1500 and polish from there
Table came out super cool. Something with that much work I think definitely would have been fine in a multi video series, that way you maintain the weekly schedule but aren’t as rushed. I know everyone appreciates a full build in one video though too, just a thought. Thanks boys
Yes, commonly referred to as the seal coat which he referenced somewhere around 9:30 as he was explaining they didn't really have time to do because video scheduling & weekend. It's a table he was giving away for free, kind of understandable that he took a couple minor shortcuts for timeliness.
Stoked to see a project video come out! How did you expect the resin to be clear though only sanding to 320? I take my resin pieces up to 8000 grit before going in with a grit paste up to 100,000 grit. Then apply finish. Think this would’ve looked incredible if you polished the resin and not the spray finish!
@@ethanlane4734 I use a product called Kustom Grit. Made by Kustom Creations. It’s a 2 part system. Part 1 is rated at 50,000 grit. Part 2 at 100,000. It works well as finish in itself, or you can add to it after. Completely food safe as well. They make a range of products that are all food safe and great!
@@ethanlane4734 3M make a good set of two pastes, but they're quite pricey. I suppose it depends on how often you're going to use it and for what projects - commercial or personal. Maybe make yourself up a little set of 20 test pieces and try out lots of combinations of grit and paste, starting with a budget one from a motor vehicle equipment suppliers.
3:50 what a jerk-off thing to say, speak to me like that and you can hire someone else, and it’s not just this instance I’ve noticed this behaviour, must be an awful place to work…
Awesome. Can't wait to see more updates an projects and many more videos soon my friend. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Fab On. Weld On. Stay squirrely. Keep making. God bless.
I love the shape of the tables and the hexagon This looks great. It doesn't matter what you do you always mess up every single time. Be proud of your projects no matter how they turn out cuz I always turn out great 👍
I like that you always give credit to the person you get your ideas from. And I agree, it looks extremely difficult! Great work though, I love your videos
Not that you'll see but other makers put a tiny amount of blue pigment in to the resin which for some reason makes it super clear and stops it yellowing over time.
13:05 I like the implication of a larger shop just giving you more room to mess everything up, but now in different rooms... at least when you storm out of one problem, you have another waiting for you!
I have seen tables like this warp before; I put it down to more epoxy being on top than on the bottom causing the timber to warp as the epoxy cures and contracts ! I also found if you place the warped table outside in direct sunlight (heat) and monitor is closely; the epoxy softens and the warp is removed ! I am sure you can work out how I know this lol ?
Havent watched the video yet, but an easy way to set the pieces with negative space would be to do it without completely cutting through the wood, to cut in the design, but not completely cut through the wood, leaving a wood base at the bottom. Then, after the epoxy cures, lap the top to level it, flip it over and lap to remove the wood until the negative space is revealed. Edit: I literally described exactly what they did, haha.
I like this one better than most the rest. If your having trouble getting scratches out, look to the General Aviation industry. A lot of our windshields are plexiglass that require bbuffing to a clear finish, NO scratches. The guys that do that are artists.
Cool looking table, and yes, mistakes always come when you rush it. But it still came out great! A future project I'd like to see from you guys is a Bourbon Barrel cabinet.
try some release agent, which is used for moulds. like for composites. wax is not good for higher temperatures. something like loctite 770-nc and similar
i just started the video, and my initial thought is either that, or they poured a first layer or resin, put the slabs in, let it cure, routed the shapes and then poured the rest.
I know you are pros but mistakes happen and it warms my heart to know that you can make them as well. If I haven't made a mistake by the end of the day it's because I was not in the shop all day. Strong work.
I think you got it right when you said and I paraphrase "I rushed to get a video ready" problems were sure to follow. Once design was set a combination of changing spindle speed tool size rate of feed and cut depth per pass would have eliminated the tear out issue and undoubtably increased cnc router time substantially. Of course after the fact cnc could have drilled two holes in mold bottom where each seperate piece was located thereby allowing you to screw into slabs from the bottom securing each seperate piece of the project before cnc cutting and as added benifit hold wood pieces down and in place during casting. Without pouring in layers if your casting table is not cooled invites a loss of epoxy clarity. I still like the finished table especially the care you took with the base and will enter contest. Great project. Ray Stormont
I've seen a similar technique used to create a wood and resin table with sensors on the back of each geometric shape that turn on LEDs when something is on top of that shape. It looks pretty amazing. I like the idea of using LEDs under resin tables in general
I think you did well, trying things from other makers doesn't mean they should be a carbon copy. I like the milky middle, I think it turned out awesome
So awesome to see a brand new video! I just found you a couple of days ago and have been watching/listening to hours of videos! Just amazing. Thank you. (This is from someone that lives in a suburb of Cleveland 😅)
Fantastic product John. Could you explain to me what you were spraying that you called the Sweet elixir of the gods? And did you buff all the way to the end or sand beyond 500 grit? That was hard work. I’m very impressed
Final product is sharp! I agree with you that the hazy look of the epoxy looks better than the clear. If I was closer Ild try buying the scrapped base from you cause I got a slab that would make a nice desk with that base!
I do this kind of table for a living and there was two big issues here. Granted clear epoxy is hard work, but it was just a non starter when you didn't seal the edges before the pour, the wood will release a load of bubbles into the epoxy, on top of that the epoxy was slightly crystalized, that's why it looked milky when you poured. It happens when it gets cold, perhaps in transit. To get it back to normal you can't just warm it, it actually has to get pretty hot, you will need a close to boiling water bath. If it's anything but crystal clear when you mix it's going to be cloudy and might not cure properly.
Quick question for ya John. How flat is "flat" for a wooden table. I used a router sled and somehow ended up with a .65mm cup on a cookie, I'll take more passes later but it got me thinking about flatness. Would appreciate your thoughts. Love the vids!
To be honest I love to see wood in its natural form, and even the first geometric cut that you said cut uneven, if I were a client, I would have loved that spoil. It would be mine, unique.
Its beautiful and would look perfect in my dining area once my house is done being rebuilt. Fire totaled my home back in Feb, we lost everything. The upside is that the residence is allowing me to do an upgrade Mid-century feel.
I know John is the main character here but I have to shout out your editor and film guys. They make your videos a 1000 times more enjoyable with all the memes and references and good cuts. Y'all are great 👍
I love your videos!!! they are very informative both on what to do and not to do 😂 ive watched about all of your videos. Beautiful table who ever wins it will be a happy person 😎
@John, is it possible to run the rail between the legs length-wise under the table instead of across it? That way none of the leg frame would be seen through the resin. Is the risk of cupping only along the width of a slab and not the length?
I wonder if using a stainless steel table or a mechanics metal work bench would help you disapate heat on the bottom of your pour. could even mount a fan to blow up at the table so any cold air from the air con will be forced back up.
My god... that wood was gorgeous after you did the initial plane. But great table also. But the naked wood is just absolutely gorgeous chocolaty purple color
The table is beautiful. I actually like the hazy epoxy. I enjoy working with epoxy as a hobbyist and have had micro-bubbles ruin entire projects so, I’m usually not fond of them :) Black Forest Wood Co. has air conditioning units under their pouring tables. For future builds it might be worth checking into. Heavy D Sparks is auctioning off some industrial air conditioning units, he may have a good deal on something that would work for you.
What is the "sweet elixir of the gods" finish he puts on top? I also can never seem to buff epoxy to anything that resembles good, no matter how many different sandpaper grits I go through. Some sort of clear coat...but what is it?!
Before watching, currently at 1:24. Im a Blacksmith, delving into woodworking myself. In my head the ideal solution to making this table to me would be to cut out the negatives, leaving the desired geometric shape behind with a saw from above but not all the way through the slab. Then, you fill the voids with resin, skipping the need for a temporary bottom and having to align small chunks of shapes. After curing you could then just plane sand and polish to dimensions, and plane off the bottom until it fully reveals the resin and pattern.
Awesome videos. Love your content! I'm a beginner woodworker myself and was curious to know what is the software you are using to draw your plans (like the one we see at time stamp 17:12). Thank you, Dominic.
I think that this idea/concept is really cool, would love to see it in different styles. Like makings clan shell pattern using a base wood for a bunch of it and using a bunch of different types of wood to make individual shells. When CNCing you can remove the piece area while keeping the gap for placement. Idk, does that make sense?
John - LOVE the videos and the builds.....Any chance of getting a bigger size for the merch? Would love to get some, but would need a 4xlt. Show some love to those of us who evidence as much commitment to working the buffet as much as we work the lathe (at which, admittedly, you're better than I am) Thanks for the great content!
love it 😍 I would of trimmed a few inches off on the end of the table at 20:00 so you don't see that corner of the wood pieces, but love the rest of it
Sort of like a mandala design? Or like the swinging-paint-can ping-pong table design John did? No reason why the CNC couldn't cut that in exactly the same way as the hexagons... could become a whole series
I’m currently in the middle of building a desk. Once I’m finished, I was wondering if I could send you the designs for it in order to recreate it the professional way? It’s the first major woodworking project I’ve ever done and so far looking like it’s gonna be janky as hell. I’d like to get your opinion on the design and what you would have done differently without changing too much. I think it would make for a good video on “do’s & don’ts” .
John i absolutely luv that table, prefer the creamy effect. Just curious, could you use wd40 as a mold release. Not sure if it will react to yhe resin but its a damm sight cheaper than the tape!
Cool table! The frosted glass look is cool too. Obviously Total Boat is not the right choice in epoxy. Hopefully you got it free. Superclear epoxy seems to be a better choice, based on some other videos I've seen.
One solution for dealing with bubbles in resin is a pressure chamber. basically crushing the bubbles until they are imperceptible to the eye. If you are going for a crystal clear pour, it is something worth exploring. It is what we do, for Miniature casting to avoid bad casting
For a pressure chamber to effectively work, the piece has to be kept under pressure throughout the entire curing process... Do you not see the overall size of what they're working on? They've also used pressure chambers in past videos so not a new concept. Let's use some logic next time
Always enjoy his positive attitude before the project and saying he's going too do everything to make it awesome and halfway through he forgets everything and just says fk it every time 😂
I love your work and imagination. But I especially love your humor and attitude. You are one of my favorite woodworkers
It looks like the resin was too cold when you mixed it. I usually warm both parts in a warm water bath to about 85F before mixing. This will get rid of the milky appearance and will result in a crystal clear epoxy pour.
it would also help to use a vacuum chamber
Thats an epic tip thanks for sharing!
As much as I hate corporate nonsense, you should make a checklist for your river tables. Means you can have each step laid out (split slab, flatten slab, make mold, apply mold release, yadda yadda...) And you know when it's done and by whom. Less steps forgotten and you've got a paper record to file away. Your shop is big enough to need this kinda stuff!
100
It takes from the TH-cam fun 😊
At some point, processes become a necessity. He’s definitely at that point.
They probably do that already but pretending to fumble and bumble around is better content. These guys are pros, pretty sure they have their stuff together
@@GUNSnDOZES surely
The table top is really nice. Love the frosted look and the geometric shaoes but i think yout best creativity was that base. Totally makes the entire table. Brava!👏👏👏
It looks awesome. In my experience, when you want that level of clarity you need to go so far as to polish the resin to 3k minimum. Then wet sand and polish the finish to at least 10k grit. I know it’s a ton of work. But it is the only way I have managed to get the result I wanted.
Wetsand up to 3k then machine compound and polish should be more than enough
to get the clear resin, you need to stir it slow speed until it clear up before pour it in the project. Most manufacturers recommendation for mixing time is not enough. Polishing is just to make shiny at the surface.
Every pour, complains about bubbles knows they should have sealed the wood. Every pour complains about the mold sticking, knows they should have used release.
Bubbles and sealed, now I'm no expert and I will never build one of these tables, they look cool but I have enough trouble with simple builds. However, I watched someone in Africa do a table poor while they were also selling a pour video guide and they do NOT seal wood edges ever anymore because they say they want the poor to penetrate the wood, and what do I know I know they do not seal edges before a poor and they might not think your comment makes sense. I know everyone who does stuff knows exactly how to do it and why they do it the way they do it :) Have fun with all your builds.
@@basildaoust2821yeah, but in this case he did say something along the lines of “I should have sealed it” and “I should have put mold release”, claiming the TH-cam upload schedule needed to be met, thus it coming out not perfect. I also have no idea on builds this big that envolves epoxy and how much these steps would have changed it, but to spend this much time and materials on some thing he knew how to do better is simply a stupid algorithm thing (and lack of planning for extra allotted time)
@@basildaoust2821 You are correct!
it's the Malecki Way TM
I liked that base... black steel contrasts beautifully with the walnut inlays and open spaces 😻
From what I understand (from Rybonator's resin dice videos), to get perfect crystal-clear epoxy you'd want to degas it in a vacuum chamber, pressure cast (not sure where you'd find a dining-table-sized pressure pot!) and then wet sand to 3000+ grit using things like Zona Paper.
That is necessary for faster curing epoxy. For this type of epoxy it shouldn’t be necessary.
@@davidkleinman4920 Agreed, I do not have a vaccuum chamber and I have built clear epoxy tables. I would not wet sand to 3000, but rather wet sand to 1000-1500 and polish from there
Table came out super cool. Something with that much work I think definitely would have been fine in a multi video series, that way you maintain the weekly schedule but aren’t as rushed. I know everyone appreciates a full build in one video though too, just a thought. Thanks boys
Looks awesome
For the micro-bubbles, black tail studios generally brushes on a coat of epoxy on exposed wood surface to keep it from gassing into the epoxy.
he said in the video he didn't seal it because of this arbitrary deadline he has to post a video on youtube lol
@@LykeArgy The algorithm deadline is no joke though. If you don't keep a consistent upload cycle, it will drop your ass.
Yes, commonly referred to as the seal coat which he referenced somewhere around 9:30 as he was explaining they didn't really have time to do because video scheduling & weekend. It's a table he was giving away for free, kind of understandable that he took a couple minor shortcuts for timeliness.
@@longshot726 forgot about the algorithm since i stopped watching MPMD lol, good point
@@longshot726 this is the first video in three weeks
Stoked to see a project video come out! How did you expect the resin to be clear though only sanding to 320? I take my resin pieces up to 8000 grit before going in with a grit paste up to 100,000 grit. Then apply finish. Think this would’ve looked incredible if you polished the resin and not the spray finish!
What grit paste do you use? I've been trying to find a good one to use for polishing my projects.
@@ethanlane4734 I use a product called Kustom Grit. Made by Kustom Creations. It’s a 2 part system. Part 1 is rated at 50,000 grit. Part 2 at 100,000. It works well as finish in itself, or you can add to it after. Completely food safe as well. They make a range of products that are all food safe and great!
exactly what i was thinking, 320 is fine for wood, but for epoxy or clear coat its still considered very course
Yes and I think taht they forget to sand it in other side of the table
@@ethanlane4734 3M make a good set of two pastes, but they're quite pricey. I suppose it depends on how often you're going to use it and for what projects - commercial or personal.
Maybe make yourself up a little set of 20 test pieces and try out lots of combinations of grit and paste, starting with a budget one from a motor vehicle equipment suppliers.
That thing turned out great; I love how the river, the wood sides & the base blend together.
3:50 what a jerk-off thing to say, speak to me like that and you can hire someone else, and it’s not just this instance I’ve noticed this behaviour, must be an awful place to work…
It's really nice when a TH-camr is willing to show their fails and not just their successes. Good on ya.
Mistakes are a major part of his channel. His content would be boring without them.
Love the design and build- after overcoming the obstacles, it turned out pretty rad! 😎😎
Awesome. Can't wait to see more updates an projects and many more videos soon my friend. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Fab On. Weld On. Stay squirrely. Keep making. God bless.
I love the shape of the tables and the hexagon This looks great. It doesn't matter what you do you always mess up every single time. Be proud of your projects no matter how they turn out cuz I always turn out great 👍
I like that you always give credit to the person you get your ideas from. And I agree, it looks extremely difficult! Great work though, I love your videos
Not that you'll see but other makers put a tiny amount of blue pigment in to the resin which for some reason makes it super clear and stops it yellowing over time.
I never knew that about the blue resin
Blue pigment/correction
Makes sense, as glass has just a tinge of blue to it.
I love the way this turned out. Great design.
this video had me checking my screen for dust just to make sure it didn't come out on the table. Nice build!
Turned out great! In spite of the issues along the way. It looks Awesome!
13:05 I like the implication of a larger shop just giving you more room to mess everything up, but now in different rooms... at least when you storm out of one problem, you have another waiting for you!
I have seen tables like this warp before; I put it down to more epoxy being on top than on the bottom causing the timber to warp as the epoxy cures and contracts ! I also found if you place the warped table outside in direct sunlight (heat) and monitor is closely; the epoxy softens and the warp is removed ! I am sure you can work out how I know this lol ?
Blacktail studio.
Yeah, Cam from Blacktail Studio did a video on sun-softening to bend an epoxy slab for a side table. Worth a try if things go a little squacky!
Havent watched the video yet, but an easy way to set the pieces with negative space would be to do it without completely cutting through the wood, to cut in the design, but not completely cut through the wood, leaving a wood base at the bottom. Then, after the epoxy cures, lap the top to level it, flip it over and lap to remove the wood until the negative space is revealed.
Edit: I literally described exactly what they did, haha.
One of my favorite channels. Always entertaining. Not just the same stuff over.and over again.
It's really cloudy!!
Absolutely beautiful! Looks bad ass. Great job guys!
Such an awesome table. I think it is better to be different than the one you were modeling it after. Gives it your character.
Imagine what the next one will look like, especially if he is able to take more time. I'm sure this one has taught him a lot
I like this one better than most the rest. If your having trouble getting scratches out, look to the General Aviation industry. A lot of our windshields are plexiglass that require bbuffing to a clear finish, NO scratches. The guys that do that are artists.
The bubbles are all the way through this pour though. Buffing would not make this clear.
Cool looking table, and yes, mistakes always come when you rush it. But it still came out great!
A future project I'd like to see from you guys is a Bourbon Barrel cabinet.
try some release agent, which is used for moulds. like for composites. wax is not good for higher temperatures. something like loctite 770-nc and similar
It looks very slick even with the cloudy resin. Arguably cooler.
I love It.
I reckon they glued the slabs to a sacrificial board then routed the shapes.
After filling with resin they planed or routed off the sacrificial board.
i just started the video, and my initial thought is either that, or they poured a first layer or resin, put the slabs in, let it cure, routed the shapes and then poured the rest.
Everything I've seen you do has turned out beautiful 😍
I know you are pros but mistakes happen and it warms my heart to know that you can make them as well. If I haven't made a mistake by the end of the day it's because I was not in the shop all day. Strong work.
I think you got it right when you said and I paraphrase "I rushed to get a video ready" problems were sure to follow. Once design was set a combination of changing spindle speed tool size rate of feed and cut depth per pass would have eliminated the tear out issue and undoubtably increased cnc router time substantially.
Of course after the fact cnc could have drilled two holes in mold bottom where each seperate piece was located thereby allowing you to screw into slabs from the bottom securing each seperate piece of the project before cnc cutting and as added benifit hold wood pieces down and in place during casting. Without pouring in layers if your casting table is not cooled invites a loss of epoxy clarity. I still like the finished table especially the care you took with the base and will enter contest. Great project. Ray Stormont
I like that your content is not your day to day job but something you challenge yourself with.
Totally awesome, John!!!
I've seen a similar technique used to create a wood and resin table with sensors on the back of each geometric shape that turn on LEDs when something is on top of that shape. It looks pretty amazing. I like the idea of using LEDs under resin tables in general
I think you did well, trying things from other makers doesn't mean they should be a carbon copy. I like the milky middle, I think it turned out awesome
So awesome to see a brand new video! I just found you a couple of days ago and have been watching/listening to hours of videos! Just amazing. Thank you. (This is from someone that lives in a suburb of Cleveland 😅)
Fantastic product John. Could you explain to me what you were spraying that you called the Sweet elixir of the gods? And did you buff all the way to the end or sand beyond 500 grit? That was hard work. I’m very impressed
Final product is sharp! I agree with you that the hazy look of the epoxy looks better than the clear. If I was closer Ild try buying the scrapped base from you cause I got a slab that would make a nice desk with that base!
I do this kind of table for a living and there was two big issues here. Granted clear epoxy is hard work, but it was just a non starter when you didn't seal the edges before the pour, the wood will release a load of bubbles into the epoxy, on top of that the epoxy was slightly crystalized, that's why it looked milky when you poured. It happens when it gets cold, perhaps in transit. To get it back to normal you can't just warm it, it actually has to get pretty hot, you will need a close to boiling water bath. If it's anything but crystal clear when you mix it's going to be cloudy and might not cure properly.
if you want that clarity you need to vacum chamber the resin before you pour. makes a HUGE difference on bubbles
Happy accidents make for more entertaining videos...how you overcome those mistakes is the best part!
Next time u do clear resin wet the floor everywhere around the project as it stops the dust from flying around
Quick question for ya John. How flat is "flat" for a wooden table. I used a router sled and somehow ended up with a .65mm cup on a cookie, I'll take more passes later but it got me thinking about flatness. Would appreciate your thoughts. Love the vids!
To be honest I love to see wood in its natural form, and even the first geometric cut that you said cut uneven, if I were a client, I would have loved that spoil. It would be mine, unique.
I love the fact that you take on difficult challenges. Things may get squirrelly, but your team stays focused.
Its beautiful and would look perfect in my dining area once my house is done being rebuilt. Fire totaled my home back in Feb, we lost everything. The upside is that the residence is allowing me to do an upgrade Mid-century feel.
I know John is the main character here but I have to shout out your editor and film guys. They make your videos a 1000 times more enjoyable with all the memes and references and good cuts. Y'all are great 👍
I love your videos!!! they are very informative both on what to do and not to do 😂 ive watched about all of your videos. Beautiful table who ever wins it will be a happy person 😎
Looks sweet i prefer the frosted resin look of yours over the clear
@John, is it possible to run the rail between the legs length-wise under the table instead of across it? That way none of the leg frame would be seen through the resin. Is the risk of cupping only along the width of a slab and not the length?
I honestly like yours better... the milky makes it really lovely
I think it looks great John. Nice job!
Love your work and the content! Great personality to watch
I wonder if using a stainless steel table or a mechanics metal work bench would help you disapate heat on the bottom of your pour. could even mount a fan to blow up at the table so any cold air from the air con will be forced back up.
Tried to enter into the comp for the table, And no option to ship to Australia!! That makes me really sad. But I love what you do John, keep it up!
He who is fixed to a star does not change his mind.
Cut pattern almost all way through so still all attached. Then plane off?
My god... that wood was gorgeous after you did the initial plane. But great table also. But the naked wood is just absolutely gorgeous chocolaty purple color
You got a extraordinary result for the effort ❤😂😂😂😂
Looks fantastic!
The table is beautiful. I actually like the hazy epoxy. I enjoy working with epoxy as a hobbyist and have had micro-bubbles ruin entire projects so, I’m usually not fond of them :) Black Forest Wood Co. has air conditioning units under their pouring tables. For future builds it might be worth checking into. Heavy D Sparks is auctioning off some industrial air conditioning units, he may have a good deal on something that would work for you.
What is the "sweet elixir of the gods" finish he puts on top? I also can never seem to buff epoxy to anything that resembles good, no matter how many different sandpaper grits I go through. Some sort of clear coat...but what is it?!
Fun video. What did you use for the top coat?
Before watching, currently at 1:24. Im a Blacksmith, delving into woodworking myself. In my head the ideal solution to making this table to me would be to cut out the negatives, leaving the desired geometric shape behind with a saw from above but not all the way through the slab. Then, you fill the voids with resin, skipping the need for a temporary bottom and having to align small chunks of shapes.
After curing you could then just plane sand and polish to dimensions, and plane off the bottom until it fully reveals the resin and pattern.
Love watching these vids table came out looking really cool
Awesome videos. Love your content! I'm a beginner woodworker myself and was curious to know what is the software you are using to draw your plans (like the one we see at time stamp 17:12).
Thank you, Dominic.
@@fr0nk3nst31n thanks!!!
Love the table.
I think that this idea/concept is really cool, would love to see it in different styles. Like makings clan shell pattern using a base wood for a bunch of it and using a bunch of different types of wood to make individual shells. When CNCing you can remove the piece area while keeping the gap for placement. Idk, does that make sense?
What yellow pencil are you using at 4:30 ?
can i get the details on the CNC machine you're using? make/model? thanks
what was the table top finished with? aka sweet nectar of the gods
What was the spray you used after sanding?
Omg, what a fantastic table, congrats mate.
John - LOVE the videos and the builds.....Any chance of getting a bigger size for the merch? Would love to get some, but would need a 4xlt.
Show some love to those of us who evidence as much commitment to working the buffet as much as we work the lathe (at which, admittedly, you're better than I am)
Thanks for the great content!
love it 😍 I would of trimmed a few inches off on the end of the table at 20:00 so you don't see that corner of the wood pieces, but love the rest of it
Love the table!!
Looks beautiful none the less.
What a beautiful table. Saw the notification but forgot to watch to today.
How about doing this very similar but with more natural curvy shapes and a coloured resin?
Sort of like a mandala design? Or like the swinging-paint-can ping-pong table design John did? No reason why the CNC couldn't cut that in exactly the same way as the hexagons... could become a whole series
@@russwilliams4777 maybe just like swirls or leave aslong as you use a small bit it might be nice to get some more detail
Don’t rush a build, personally I’d rather see you build your best than a rush job.
Beautiful desk! I love the pattern 👍
I’m currently in the middle of building a desk. Once I’m finished, I was wondering if I could send you the designs for it in order to recreate it the professional way? It’s the first major woodworking project I’ve ever done and so far looking like it’s gonna be janky as hell. I’d like to get your opinion on the design and what you would have done differently without changing too much. I think it would make for a good video on “do’s & don’ts” .
Very cool table but that old Rockwell Delta drill press, that is really cool. great find!
What resins do you usually use.?
@blacktailstudio what causes the warping when they poured the epoxy?
Anyone know what he was spraying onto the table for a finish? It turned out amazing.
John i absolutely luv that table, prefer the creamy effect.
Just curious, could you use wd40 as a mold release. Not sure if it will react to yhe resin but its a damm sight cheaper than the tape!
I think it turned out pretty damn epic!!! I think you should do an “In John We Trust” with an outline of the beard.. lol… I would 💯 buy.
Cool table! The frosted glass look is cool too. Obviously Total Boat is not the right choice in epoxy. Hopefully you got it free. Superclear epoxy seems to be a better choice, based on some other videos I've seen.
One solution for dealing with bubbles in resin is a pressure chamber. basically crushing the bubbles until they are imperceptible to the eye.
If you are going for a crystal clear pour, it is something worth exploring.
It is what we do, for Miniature casting to avoid bad casting
For a pressure chamber to effectively work, the piece has to be kept under pressure throughout the entire curing process... Do you not see the overall size of what they're working on? They've also used pressure chambers in past videos so not a new concept. Let's use some logic next time
Maybe its the 3 week break but John seemed a lil serious. Love this channel and hopefully there is more light hearted maker content to come.
Always enjoy his positive attitude before the project and saying he's going too do everything to make it awesome and halfway through he forgets everything and just says fk it every time 😂
I was really wondering how you would do it and then you did it how i would have guessed it would be done
19:56 yours can use some LEDs. The tiktok one can't. Great job, even with the mishaps. It's beautiful
Very Pretty