What the heck this is the best how to video I have ever seen. When I look up how to do something why cant this guy be the only person on TH-cam to do these diy videos?
No rambling, great examples, nice shots, spot on. Can you build a house from bare land with videos like this, please? You put all other videos to shame. Outstanding A+++ video!
Great video! Question, how did you tighten all your connections on the chrome supply lines? Did you use channelocks or pipe wrench without damaging the chrome? Did you pre assemble on a bench vise? I bought a Kingston Brass CC266S1AX version. I am experiencing leaks at the shut off valves to lower riser connections and lower riser to coupling reducer connections. I used 5-6 turns of Teflon tape and tightened hard with channellocks which scratched the finish even with rubber protection… I’m thinking these connection should’ve been only hand tightened without Teflon tape instead? These are all NPSM treads on mine, which don’t require Teflon. (Although instructions say to apply) maybe just snugged with a large adjustable wrench on the valves to tighten? I’m curious as to how you approached this. Thank you!
Badass very straight forward video man! Good stuff. Keep it coming. One question though what did you do about screwing that piece of the subfloor that you cut out? Did you just attach a cross brace underneath the plywood and reattach the piece?
I have an old CF tub with three holes for the taps and overflow. I like the water supply coming up through the floor. I hope to do that. Does it sound feasible?
This is a great video! I hope you're still doing great work. Do you have anything like this video, but installing it on a first floor? There's a shower where we want to ADD a claw-foot tub next to a shower. The foundation is slab and will be interesting to work with. Thanks for the video.
There are three clawfoot tub faucet options, that each mount differently. One mounts to the floor, like mine does. One mounts on the wall next to the tub, and one mounts on the tub itself. If you are sitting on a concrete floor, I would suggest either mounting the faucet on the wall, or on the tub with stainless steel flex lines to the wall. If you really want to do it in the floor, you are going to have to saw out a chunk of concrete, run your waterlines in, and then go back in with Concrete.
+Gadget Addict - Yes! I need someone to test it when it is full water and a person to make sure it won't be heavy enough to go crashing through to the downstairs :)
I have a question about the access (rectangular) hole you cut to tighten the nuts on the bottom of the water supply lines. Do you simply floor over it? if so, what happens if the lines loosen up? Great video btw!
+AFHero66 - Sorry there is no great answer. Just like any other plumbing in walls and floors, if it leaks, your have to tear something out to get to it. Fortunately, if it is done right, leaks are very rare.
so when putting the bottom washers on the standpipes you must have to put the bottom one on first right if the subfloor is down there how are you supposed to put the bottom ones on because we can’t use a sample at home. That’s the only part that confused me on how to make sure unless you get the subfloor piece that you cut the holes in and just make sure everything is on there and then put it down but then it leaves the question how do you tighten it after it’s already covered up
Its just sits there. They are heavy enough they don’t scoot much. If you have a problem with scooting, you can drill 1 inch diameter holes in the floor, only 1/4 inch deep, under every foot. There is a tiny rubber foot under each “foot” that will fall in those holes and lock the tub in place
i got a real one from the 50s/60s ... my neighbor has wanted it for years last tuesday he offer me $3700 for it... it has been in my family for a while i really don't want to sell.. was my great aunts.. is this a good deal tho?
Ok, so i prolly should not be giving advice on sentimental stuff, but yes, in my eyes, this is a good deal. You can buy real cast iron claw foot tubs on Amazon for $1,200 with free shipping. So you could trade out the old for a new tub, and pocket $2,500. Honestly, the 50s aint that old. I live in a farmhouse built in 1888. But only you can put a price on what that tub means to you. Is there anything else that your great aunt gave you to remember her by? If so, that makes letting the tub go, a little easier. Also, what would your great aunt tell you to do if she were still alive?
Try gluing it down with pure silicone. If that does not work, place the two back feet over grout lines. Drill two holes through the feet with a metal bit, and into the grout lines with a concrete bit. Secure with tapcon screws. If you can’t hit the grout lines, use a diamond bit to drill through the tile.
A cast-iron tub can weigh anywhere between 250 and 500 pounds. Add to that another 200 pounds of water and you have something very heavy that your bathroom was likely not designed to support. To bolster your floor, you will need to double up your floor joists. If you’re on the first floor, you might be able to reach them from the crawlspace or basement. If you are on the second floor, you will either have to rip out the bathroom flooring, including the subfloor, or rip out the ceiling from below. Another option is to get a fiberglass clawfoot tub. They are only about 100 pounds. They are not as durable, but not too bad, and look great.
Actually, that was very easy. Disconnect the tub from the pipes and carry out of bathroom. Lat tile floor around pipes and drop in escutcheons. Bring tub back in and hook it back up.
It is much more difficult to install a claw foot tub on a concrete floor. You will need an angle grinder with a diamond blade to cut a hole in the concrete for plumbing. See this video on moving a toilet on a concrete floor. You will have to do a lot of the same things. How To Remodel a Basement Bath - Part 1 of 3 (HowToLou.com) th-cam.com/video/fVcw7GrZ6Ok/w-d-xo.html
+Timothy Davenport - I am 6 ft.Our style comes in 54",59,63,67. Other styles go up to 72. I don't know that there is a "standard" size. I think we chose 59"
![ละลาย (LALALYE) - DAOU PITTAYA ต้าห์อู๋ พิทยา [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wo6r9TgausI/mqdefault.jpg)
What the heck this is the best how to video I have ever seen. When I look up how to do something why cant this guy be the only person on TH-cam to do these diy videos?
No rambling, great examples, nice shots, spot on.
Can you build a house from bare land with videos like this, please?
You put all other videos to shame.
Outstanding A+++ video!
dude. quick. to the point. plenty of info. thanks.
Brilliant trick with the cardboard template and tape! Used that trick, love it, thank you!
This is what all DIY videos should be like. Bravo!
Quality content. Like everyone said, straight to the point with perfect visuals
Outstanding instruction and illustration. Thank you!
Awesome, have a concrete slab and decided to build a platform for the plumbing! Avoided a lot of Headaches!
Excellent instructions. So clear and your actions/visuals are perfect.
Wow! Amazing the way you explain every single details. Thank you
Awesome explanation and procedures. Well done. You should get a gold star.
Great video! Question, how did you tighten all your connections on the chrome supply lines? Did you use channelocks or pipe wrench without damaging the chrome? Did you pre assemble on a bench vise? I bought a Kingston Brass CC266S1AX version. I am experiencing leaks at the shut off valves to lower riser connections and lower riser to coupling reducer connections. I used 5-6 turns of Teflon tape and tightened hard with channellocks which scratched the finish even with rubber protection… I’m thinking these connection should’ve been only hand tightened without Teflon tape instead? These are all NPSM treads on mine, which don’t require Teflon. (Although instructions say to apply) maybe just snugged with a large adjustable wrench on the valves to tighten? I’m curious as to how you approached this. Thank you!
Badass very straight forward video man! Good stuff. Keep it coming. One question though what did you do about screwing that piece of the subfloor that you cut out? Did you just attach a cross brace underneath the plywood and reattach the piece?
Yes a cross brace, but then tile board and 12x24 ceramic tiles on top of that, so I hardly even needed to put in back.
@@HowToLou figured soo. Thanks again !
I have an old CF tub with three holes for the taps and overflow. I like the water supply coming up through the floor. I hope to do that. Does it sound feasible?
Yes. Same technique.
Very well explained job and helpful.
Great content. I've been searching and searching for how to get the supply line secure through the floor
thank you so much. no instructions with my kit. :(
What recommended measurements for pipes away from wall ?
Personal preference. I would say no less than 3 inches, just so you can get a wrench on it if you need to.
This is a great video! I hope you're still doing great work. Do you have anything like this video, but installing it on a first floor? There's a shower where we want to ADD a claw-foot tub next to a shower. The foundation is slab and will be interesting to work with.
Thanks for the video.
There are three clawfoot tub faucet options, that each mount differently. One mounts to the floor, like mine does. One mounts on the wall next to the tub, and one mounts on the tub itself. If you are sitting on a concrete floor, I would suggest either mounting the faucet on the wall, or on the tub with stainless steel flex lines to the wall. If you really want to do it in the floor, you are going to have to saw out a chunk of concrete, run your waterlines in, and then go back in with Concrete.
FANTASTIC instructional.
Great handyman skills!!!!💪🏼👍🏼
That template idea is genius!
Great video/content/production!!
I would like to see the plumbing parts (connections in the floor). But Great Video! Thanks
Can I come over and test it?
+Gadget Addict - Yes! I need someone to test it when it is full water and a person to make sure it won't be heavy enough to go crashing through to the downstairs :)
Can you please recommend what brand kit did you use?
We got the tub and faucet/drain set from Signature Hardware
How many inches behind drain do you install water supply lines?
I have a question about the access (rectangular) hole you cut to tighten the nuts on the bottom of the water supply lines. Do you simply floor over it? if so, what happens if the lines loosen up? Great video btw!
+AFHero66 - Sorry there is no great answer. Just like any other plumbing in walls and floors, if it leaks, your have to tear something out to get to it. Fortunately, if it is done right, leaks are very rare.
so when putting the bottom washers on the standpipes you must have to put the bottom one on first right if the subfloor is down there how are you supposed to put the bottom ones on because we can’t use a sample at home. That’s the only part that confused me on how to make sure unless you get the subfloor piece that you cut the holes in and just make sure everything is on there and then put it down but then it leaves the question how do you tighten it after it’s already covered up
Thank you so much for making this video! ❤️❤️❤️
Brilliantly explained 👌👍
Thanks for the detailed video!!
Great video
I assume the drain is also vented somewhere further along the plumbing?
+allanpennington - yes, the drain goes horizontally 4 feet and tees into a 3 inch stack that vents up through the roof.
How do you secure the clawfoot tub to the floor? Or is it just held in place by the drain?
Its just sits there. They are heavy enough they don’t scoot much. If you have a problem with scooting, you can drill 1 inch diameter holes in the floor, only 1/4 inch deep, under every foot. There is a tiny rubber foot under each “foot” that will fall in those holes and lock the tub in place
Do you have a link to the kits you purchased?
I only remember we bought the tub and faucets at Signature Hardware
Do you have to put caulk around the drain or is that gasket enough to prevent leaks?
The gasket works fine.
i got a real one from the 50s/60s ... my neighbor has wanted it for years last tuesday he offer me $3700 for it... it has been in my family for a while i really don't want to sell.. was my great aunts.. is this a good deal tho?
Ok, so i prolly should not be giving advice on sentimental stuff, but yes, in my eyes, this is a good deal. You can buy real cast iron claw foot tubs on Amazon for $1,200 with free shipping. So you could trade out the old for a new tub, and pocket $2,500. Honestly, the 50s aint that old. I live in a farmhouse built in 1888. But only you can put a price on what that tub means to you. Is there anything else that your great aunt gave you to remember her by? If so, that makes letting the tub go, a little easier. Also, what would your great aunt tell you to do if she were still alive?
How do you secure the feet of the tub if it is a tile floor and the copper tub is so light you can slide it around??
Try gluing it down with pure silicone. If that does not work, place the two back feet over grout lines. Drill two holes through the feet with a metal bit, and into the grout lines with a concrete bit. Secure with tapcon screws. If you can’t hit the grout lines, use a diamond bit to drill through the tile.
I have no clue what this is but I totally want one NOW!!!!
I have heard that you might have to reinforce the floors under a clawfoot tub. Can you tell me about this?
A cast-iron tub can weigh anywhere between 250 and 500 pounds. Add to that another 200 pounds of water and you have something very heavy that your bathroom was likely not designed to support. To bolster your floor, you will need to double up your floor joists. If you’re on the first floor, you might be able to reach them from the crawlspace or basement. If you are on the second floor, you will either have to rip out the bathroom flooring, including the subfloor, or rip out the ceiling from below. Another option is to get a fiberglass clawfoot tub. They are only about 100 pounds. They are not as durable, but not too bad, and look great.
The best way for me to do this is to hire you.
Great video.
What about getting the finished floor under the tub? I bet that is tricky.
Actually, that was very easy. Disconnect the tub from the pipes and carry out of bathroom. Lat tile floor around pipes and drop in escutcheons. Bring tub back in and hook it back up.
Yeah but won't the height be off a little?
The drain pipe can extend in or out. The hot and cold are not connected to the tub in any way. I now have tile under it, no problem.
Thanks for this.
Great video
Thank you much
so far 5 people who are mad *because they can't afford a claw foot tub* has rated this video! LOL!
+mrsparex - Ha! Yeah I wonder sometimes how most people can like my videos, but a few people dislike it so much they thumb it down.
What if you have concrete foundation?
It is much more difficult to install a claw foot tub on a concrete floor. You will need an angle grinder with a diamond blade to cut a hole in the concrete for plumbing. See this video on moving a toilet on a concrete floor. You will have to do a lot of the same things.
How To Remodel a Basement Bath - Part 1 of 3 (HowToLou.com) th-cam.com/video/fVcw7GrZ6Ok/w-d-xo.html
Thank you
what size tub is that and how tall are you im trying to figure out if i can get away with a 4 and a half foot tub
+Timothy Davenport - I am 6 ft.Our style comes in 54",59,63,67. Other styles go up to 72. I don't know that there is a "standard" size. I think we chose 59"
@@HowToLou do you have the brand of the tub, would like something similar!
Bravo good sir.
A PLUS
Wish I stated here, made it simple
plastic tubssssssssssssssssss suck hard to clean and scratch easy they get cold fast wheelchair Larry Merry Christmas
Great video