Have you figured out the garment construction game yet?? ✂️ If you like this video, you'll love what I have at Vintage Sewing School...come join me and up level your sewing! www.vintagesewingschool.com/
Evelyn, I am SO happy that I found you💕. I am learning so much. Tgis specific video I have now watched three times, but will have to do a 4th and jot down notes. I made one set of garments for a photoshoot and, about a month later I had to male more but, to my horror, I could not remember the little things I figured out along the way. I have now made a full instruction list, down to the nitty gritty things, which now has extra little things that I learned from you. I don't think I will get to 1000 of the same and even then it will get lost in my head. This way, I can always refer back, make sure I don't miss anything, and hopefully be able to finish a garment quicker. And of course, when I learn something new from you, I will add that in too💕💕
as someone who is so tempted to think i can just jump into advanced techniques like drafting my own patterns if i simply do enough reading/research, your teaching style is such a good reminder. it does all flow into each other and skipping beginning stages of the learning process is doing myself a disservice!
You're so good at sewing and I like your sewing it's so good yeah but yet to teach me how to solve because I don't know how to solve so you have to tell me to know how to solve I never saw your video so I'm not I'm so happy😂😂😂😂❤❤❤❤❤ I love your little videos I love them so much so I really like to watch it again
I once saw a sleeve hack that intrigued me. Sew the shoulder seams, but not the side seams. There is more control of the sleeve head when it's laid flat, supposedly. I tried it on a long sleeved chemise. Worked like a dream.
Yes Lorna this is an alternative construction method to the set in sleeve. (All men's business shirts are constructed like this!) There's a time and place for all different methods of course, I'm glad your experimenting and seeing what works for you!
That is my preferred method of setting sleeves. I default to this unless the side seams don't line up (eg jacket with two piece sleeve construction). I didn't realize that it's a hack...!
I have been trying to follow my first ever sewing pattern and have had to research every other word….No other video have been as helpful as you Evelyn! Knowledge is power and you are sharing this so succinctly and thoroughly! I am so grateful!
I think about garment construction in terms of "fitting points". I need to get the darts and shoulder seams done before I stop to check the fit on the side seams - the last easy place to adjust. Then I do the same with the collar or waist band -- do all of the construction until that point so I can check that fit and make adjustments. Hems are always done last.
I want to sew soooooooo bad but I hardly have any time for it! 😢 I am a mother of three, the youngest is a one year old boy. I watch this kind of videos to comfort myself for the lack of sewing in my life. 😄
Some kids patterns have a different order. For example, sleeves are sometimes sewn in the shoulder before sewing the seam under the arm and side seams. I really liked when the hem was sewn on pants and sleeves first on kids cloths. Otherwise these don't fit on the sewing machine sleeve very well. Anyway I liked it so sometimes I sew hems first because it's easier to iron. Flat hems anyway. I do curved hems last or hems I want to do by hand last. Some stretch fabrics don't needs hems.
I must confess that sometimes I will just serge my hem and wear the garment without hemming it, as I'm too impatient LOL! :D Also I will often serge all my raw edges before sewing anything together at the seams
I learned the old Simplicity "Unit Method of Construction", which divided a skirt into three "units": front, back, and waistband and finishing. A blouse had front, back, sleeves, cuffs and collar and finishing. A dress was front, back, connect skirt and bodice if required, sleeves, and finally collar, cuffs and finishing. This has worked for me for years. The point was to finish each unit before moving onto the next to minimize the handling of each unit and make the sewing efficient but also allow one to tackle manageable chunks of a project.
I am so surprised that this is the only video I have been able to find on the order of operations for sewing!!! This is definitely how my brain works so this is very helpful. I would love to learn about the order of operations for garments with lining. 😅
I haven't commented on any of your posts yet, but I just had to take a moment to thank you. You have made the effort and taken the time to produce these really great tutorials that essentially empower those who choose to take advantage. Whether professional and improving thus more marketable, or someone sewing for themselves and loved ones to save $ or scenarios in between... I appreciate your generosity. Many thanks
Awww thankyou Maribelle! It makes my day to hear this and is exactly why I make these videos! I want to see everyone sewing and creating their own clothes! ❤
I just finished making a bag from my own design and pattern and I think it turned out pretty well. I noticed also as I get better that I stop following the instructions of patterns so closely because the right order comes to me more naturally now. But your explanation really makes sense. I want to make a two-piece suit as my next project and the instructions that come with the pattern are... curt, so to speak. I will try to come up with the right order by myself first and then match it to the instructions.
That's something that interest me. I mean, there's a few websites that give you free patterns but without instructions. So, knowing the order is very helpful
Thank You. Good review. I’ve been sewing garments and all other manner of sewing (upholstering, making drapes, curtains etc) for over 60 years and have just purchased the Lutterloh System in which there are absolutely no instructions. This will surely help anyone who is using this system of clothing construction. You are such a beautiful lady and you reminded me of Snow White as I was watching (definitely meant to be a compliment!)
I always send pictures before the hems are done. Today I've been making t-shirts and I think I photographed every one of them before I'd done the hems!
Hi Evelyn. I used to make children's clothes to very similar patterns. After a while it was just automatic, didn't need those instructions ! I guess when you've made a few garments, its kind of the same thing. You do it without thinking. Great place to be, thanks for sharing.
Great information. I'm odd though. I've never not hemmed something before I've worn it and I've sewn for over 50 years. I do like a challenge sometimes and found a bag of cut out pattern pieces at a rummage sale years ago. I recognized it as a long sleeved, button down shirt so I played with it. It was a little too small for me, but the print was Campbell's Pork and Beans cans. Too cute. These tips come in very handy for construction processes like I did.
By my late teens, I rarely glanced at the instructions other than basic fabric layouts (and then I'd do my own to conserve fabric) or if there was a design detail that was new to me. At age 30, I learned my lesson. Cut an entire jacket out, 15-20 separate pieces, directional due to corduroy type fabric. Took almost 3 hours. Marked notches, etc with chalk. Thought I would glance at instructions as I had never sewn a Burda pattern before...... no seam allowances on the pattern pieces! Back to the fabric store and repeat the whole process the next night! When tackling something brand new - ALWAYS check out the instructions first! BTW, using Dad's phone at the moment. As a woman, in all other endeavors, I always read the directions first. That was such a "guy" thing to do!
Enid Gilchrist put out a series of books in the 1950's and 60's. These showed you how to draft, alter and construct most types of clothes, The books also gave ideas on how to vary the design. My mother gave me her books (bought when I was a baby) when my daughter was born so I taught myself to draft and sew at the same time. Some fabric remnants and lots of experimentation meant my daughter had a unique and varied wardrobe. I then branched out to dresses for my then wife and shirts, trousers and jackets for myself. All this was on a treadle machine that had a motor added. It only did straight stitch and no reverse. Lots of French seams.
After sewing for 20 + years it was so fun to watch this and get my beginner glasses on. It’s second nature for me, but how do I explain this to beginners? You did a very good job and I will send any who asks here 😜
😀 I know right! When you already know something, it's hard to imagine and remember what is like NOT knowing it! I enjoy breaking down concepts like these and trying to make them as simple as possible and easy to follow, what I wish I had when I was learning to sew!
Great Video as always. I never thought to memorize the sequence of construction. Wonderful. I've got most of it down. Especially the pieces I've made several times. But I didn't really think about it as a very orderly sequence for all garment construction. Thank You.
No, I don't do the hem thing. Probably because the last time I sewed anything beyond a random button back on to some clothes was in 1998 and I was 13. I inherited my grandmother's machine, years ago, but it is broken. I bought one of those mini machines about two years ago, but its been in the closet. Occasionally, I'll take it out of the closet and look at it as if I might do something before sticking it back in the closet. Well, last week they opened a Hobby Lobby in my neighborhood. I've been wanting a potholder with bees on it but haven't been able to find one. Well, wouldn't you know they had a really nice bee fabric and all the fabric was on sale. I got the bright idea that maybe I should make my own potholders with that fabric. While digging randomly through the pattern cabinet, I also found a nice summer dress pattern and a jacket/skirt pattern before finding the potholder pattern. I had the ladies that cut the fabric help me figure out how much fabric I needed and spent 20 mins trying to figure out what "insulated mylar" was before locating it on the shelf. I get home with my stuff and open the pattern. I remember helping my grandmother cut patterns that she would sew. This is going to be fun... 10 mins later, what I have to wash the fabric? That would suck if it shrunk up. 5 mins later, oh I need this "batting" stuff too... crap. What the heck is a "selvage?" Google to the rescue, person on video says something about "notions." umm... checks package, crap I need ribbon and what the heck is "double fold bias tape?" Guess I'll figure it out at the store since I need to go back for batting anyways and apparently some buttons. Ok, now maybe I can do this... Crap I need an iron. Do I still have my iron? Think I donated it when I moved... Yep. Gets a new iron. I don't remember how to iron. Feeling embarrassed I watch a bunch of TH-cam videos on how to iron fabric oh and the paper patterns. Ok, ok now I got this... Tried reading directions on potholder... Umm... what is "narrow hem?" What is "gather?" Umm wait, how are they telling me to fold the fabric? Umm... Maybe the dress is easier. Puts aside potholder pattern and dumps out dress pattern. Wait did I get the notions for this? Crap... Oh, look it also needs a lining. Says, "Lining: Lining Fabrics" Umm... What? Google was not helpful. Go back to the store for "lining fabrics" with a picture of the pattern pack backside. Someone in the store helps me get a lining fabric. I realize the jacket probably needs lining too but don't have a picture of the back of the jacket pattern so I grab a fabric that will probably be nice in the jacket, but at the counter, I don't know how much I need, all I know is the jacket itself required 2.5 yards of fabric... Lady suggests I look at the pattern and come back later for the jacket lining and cuts the dress lining for me. I realize I also need "fusible interfacing" but have no idea what that is either. She points out where it is and asks what part of the dress it is for. I have no idea... I don't even know what fusible interfacing is... I get one that seems not super thick I dunno what I'm doing with this just that I need it to make the dress. I get back home start reading the dress directions and realize that this thing is written in another language? Basting? This is fabric not a turkey! What the heck is a nap? How did my grandmother make such beautiful dresses and stuff? Man I hope I don't sew up a crooked mess trying to make a pot holder and a dress... Ironing board covered in fabric, table, bed and part of the kitchen covered in paper pattern pieces and sewing supplies everywhere. I feel so confused, I'm a mechanic, not a seamstress. I can read wiring diagrams and fix electrical issues in my car, but this is the sewing equivalent of a wiring diagram and I don't understand the symbols. Might as well be Egyptian Hieroglyphics. There is a lot more to this than what I was thinking when I bought the pot holder pattern... I think I've watched about six of your videos now and they have been helpful, but I should probably pin the patterns to the fabric and start cutting things as soon as I find a video that explains how to fold the fabric. If you read all of this thanks for the videos and I hope a few of you got a good laugh at my chaos.
😂 I think these are the thoughts we all have! If you want to go further with your sewing, I have all these lessons explaining each of these steps in Vintage Sewing School, if love to have you in class! Happy sewing
@@aliceannjo Every DIY guy has the same issue with going to the hardware store, believe me. I'm not even a guy, and I had to go the hardware store several times, also.
Evelyn, I too do not recall ever wearing anything unhemmed! However, since I often sew a pattern many times after I drafted it and perfected the fit, I alter my steps in construction. For example, on a straight skirt that is gathered to a bodice ,I have been known to sew the skirt with the pockets, serge the edges together press the seams toward the front and then serge around the bottom and Hem it before attaching it to the bodice!
Not far off how my ma taught me, she could cut a dress skirt etc out without a pattern. She taught me to always sew the zip in first, it’s easier with two flat pieces of fabric. Any alterations on size etc was done on the other straight seams. But apart from that, you’re spot on. I only look at instructions if there is something I’ve not come across before, for instance the sleeve in the Iris Tee, which proved to be very simple actually, but I checked the instructions. Thanks Evelyn good instructive podcast.
I find it much easier to set sleeves in, and sew them in, leaving 11/2" at each end of the sleeve seam unsewn, before doing underarm bodice and underarm sleeve seams. I then finish the last two inches of the sleeve seam under the arm. This is a whole lot less fiddly, and much easier to get into the machine. I also find it easier to measure, mark or pin hems, while the garment is relatively flat, then sew last. Collars are also done before finishing button plackets.
Hmm. Never thought of it in its entirety. Usually I just think about whether to follow the pattern or attach the sleeve to the shoulder before sewing the sides.
And when it is intuitive, you can just scrap the rules and do what you want, because you know when it is possible to do things in a different order if you so choose.
Thank you for this it is so amazing to have. I made notes! I am about to start drafting blocks and it will really help me to know how to then put together the garments
Internal features: Also include welt pockets, patch pockets, and attaching pocket flaps. You might forget pockets completely if you're looking at commercial patterns for womens' clothing, because lazy and evil designers skip them. So we have to correct their errors.
Great video❤️ I've noticed there are two approaches to attaching sleeves. One is to make the shells and then attach the sleeve to the bodice and the other is to do 1. The shoulder seam 2. Attach sleeve head 3. Sew the whole side seam in one go..... I wonder what are the advantages and disadvantages of both🤔
Yes these are the 2 techniques for sleeves. There is a time and place for each of course! As a general rule, anything looser fit and a flater sleeve head can use the second method of the sleeve and side seam in one 🙂 But otherwise for best results, a set in sleeve all the way!
This definitely helps! Thank you! Also do you think you can do a video on when to use the correct interfacing. Some patterns never really tell you what kind to get.
Yeah, so many kinds of interfacing. I'm next doing a shirt copy of one that is old and falling apart. I found the interfacing in the collar. Guess I'll have to bring it to a store to ask what it is and find something similar. Doesn't look like any interfacing I've ever seen.
Depending on the type of buttonholes you need, you will have to make them BEFORE you finish the garment. I'm looking at you bound buttonholes that i may have to undo my nearly finished skirt for.. it's even decently hemmed! T-T
Haha. I just remembered I have a completed dress hanging in my closet minus it's sleeves - too many hobbies. And nowhere to wear the dress so considering cutting it to tunic length🤔
Thank you for this. Could you do a video on when to fit for size while sewing? I think this is very important. Doing a whole lot of work before knowing the garment fits you is really a waste of time.
I first carefully burn off the edges using candle light before i start 'basting stitch then iron , sewing (× how many times i have to do it)' and lastly hem.... But if what im making is a blouse for myself...i would do the hem first after burning it in stead of what i just said because i like having slits in my blouse as my blouses reach around mid thigh...
😂 I know! But I agree that you need to mark everything before you move and warp your pattern pieces from the cutting table. Try my 'little nicks' method of notching so there easier to find after fusing! th-cam.com/video/sgubgWmk9yE/w-d-xo.html
When you say write it down, do you, yourself write it down anywhere like a journal or another sheet of paper and insert that into the pattern envelope?
This is a good question Debbie! Yes, I used to write it down on paper, literally step-by-step ALL the instructions (and then when I make my own pattern write down all the steps in order before I start), in a sewing journal. These days I do the same process but having much more practice, I can do it in my head these days! 🙂
I am learning the hard way to check the whole pattern most pertinently the pattern instructions. I am missing the whole front page of my pattern instructions for a vintage baby dress pattern .
Yes! Most often you would finish the bodice 'shell' and finish the sleeve 'shell' as is easier to sew smaller pieces at the machine. Then sew sleeves to bodice!
To me, this order is quite intuitive. However, I've seen examples of people attaching sleeves before doing the side seams and attaching bottom ruffles to a skirt before the back seam. Mainly because it's easier to work with a flat piece. What's your view on that?
Its sometimes a necessity especially if you have older machines which dont have a turn around to do curved hems. By that i mean completely affixed to a table.
Hi beginner sewist here! I’m constructing a pleated apron skirt and was reading that pleats in a skirt must be made AFTER hemming the bottom . Is this true? as it defies the order !!
In my younger years, I tried everything to avoid hemming. For jerseys, I would just leave the edges raw, and for other things, and I attached trims to other materials. Now I finish my garments properly, but hemming is definitely still my least favorite part.
@@dale3404 Yes! I forgot about buttonholes. I avoided them for a whole decade, and I would spend hours sewing snaps on blouses instead. To be fair, my old machine always acted up for buttonholes...
Funny I only hate hemming stretch fabrics, because you can’t (or I haven’t found a way) hand sew stretch. Sitting down at the end of a project with my needle and thread and putting a nice preferably ‘herringbone’ hand stitched hem on I find enjoyable (strange woman). It’s getting a nice level hem pressed before I start I find awful!!
I have to admit I had a pair of curtains that I put up to stretch, pinned and then forgot. Found out when I took them down to throw away!!! I did have young children at that time, it’s my only excuse!!
Serging or overlocking can be done either/ both before or during construction. If seams are to be pressed flat after sewn then it is best to surge those edges before sewing the seam. However sometimes it works well to surge seam edges together after the side seam for example is sewn. Also it works if you are setting in the sleeve in the flat method, surging the edges together and then pressing the surged seam toward the main body of the shirt or dress. At that point you can also top stitch the seam in place.
I was wondering if you have any hints and suggestions for hemming when you're working alone and haven't got a dress form yet? I'm working on my first project which is a circle skirt and I've got the mockup all done up to the hem. I've let it hang and the fabric has dropped in places as expected but now I need to work out how the level off the hem as I don't have a dress form to hold it or someone else to mark it for me while I'm wearing it.
You should determine how long you want the skirt from the waistband to the hem. Lay the skirt flat on a table or the floor. Then use a measuring tape and a marking tool to measure outward from the waist band along the fabric and mark the proper length. Do this many times all around the fabric and then join the marks together like connect-the-dots. Use that line as the fold up edge if you're turning the hem and mark the seam allowance down from that line. Hope this helps!
@@nataliestanchevski4628 unfortunately I had trouble with that method. I have enough in the back that measuring it out that way gives a back hem that is noticeably higher than the front. For it to sit right and be even I need to have the back a bit longer but I have no idea how to work that out by myself
@@junelleward8591 have you tried the string method? Take a long piece of string/yarn/ribbon and tie a knot at the end. With your back facing a mirror hold the string at your waist and let it out (so it hangs over your butt) with the knot at the bottom and drop it down until the knot is hanging at the point where you'd like your hem to end. Keep holding the string at the waist point and mark it there with a marker. The length between the knot and mark is how long your finished skirt needs to be at the back, you can measure it to find the number in inches or cm. If you compare it to the length of the front skirt you can find the difference and use that number to add to the back length of any skirt you make in the future. On your circle skirt put a pin on the center front where you want the hem, and do the same with the center back (which will be longer than the front). Next place more pins around the skirt to mark the hem making sure to create a smooth curve from front to back. You can use math to divide the skirt into sections and determine how much length to add to each section as you move around the skirt from front to back evenly (but I'm not good with figuring out a formula to explain that) or you can eye it. I'm pretty sure there are other ways to do this properly, but these methods have worked for me. I only have about 3/4 inch difference between front and back though, so it's not a big issue for me to correct. Now I usually just add the extra 3/4 inch to the pattern paper before I cut out the fabric. Hopefully if my suggestions don't help you you'll be able to find a video that does. Good luck!
There are two main ways. 1. Flat-lining: this is when you treat the lining and it's corresponding outer fabric as a single piece, so you would just have one side seam (for example) that goes through 4 layers- front and back outer fabric and front and back lining. In this method the lining is attached to the outer fabric early on, before any of the main pattern pieces are joined together. The raw seams will show on the inside this way so you need to use some seam finishing method to make them cleaner, like a serged seam, Hong Kong finish, etc. 2. Bag lining: This is when you sew basically 2 separate garments, one out of lining and one out of the outer fabric, and then join them together near the end with the wrong sides facing eachother so that all your raw seam edges for both outer fabric and lining are sandwiched in between the outer fabric and lining. The garment could almost be reversible because the inside is just as clean and finished as the outside. Not a raw edge showing anywhere. Bag lining is used in higher quality garments. Often bag linings are used in conjunction with facings near any opening like a dress neckline or front center opening of a blazer, etc.
I am sewing a gown for a Regency ball. The bodice has underlining and fashion/bodice layer, treated as one piece with basted pleats. There is a gathered overlay as well. I have all pieces basted, as directed. When do I remove the basting stitches, for instance, for the pleats (not sewn down)? There is no mention of WHEN to remove these. Your advice would be very helpful!
Have you figured out the garment construction game yet??
✂️ If you like this video, you'll love what I have at Vintage Sewing School...come join me and up level your sewing! www.vintagesewingschool.com/
Look, I'll get to my hem eventually... You didn't have to call me out like that 😂😂😂
Haha same feeling so called out 😂🤫
😂😂😂 Ha ha reading through these comments and seeing all the mentions of not finishing hems is hilarious! You're not alone!
For me its sewing on the buttons.
THIS!!! SO MUCH, THIS!!!
Thanks for this! And yes, I indeed posted photos before my hems were done! ^_^
First time here, nice, think I will try your construction of the pattern. Makes sense to me. Thanks
Evelyn, I am SO happy that I found you💕. I am learning so much. Tgis specific video I have now watched three times, but will have to do a 4th and jot down notes. I made one set of garments for a photoshoot and, about a month later I had to male more but, to my horror, I could not remember the little things I figured out along the way. I have now made a full instruction list, down to the nitty gritty things, which now has extra little things that I learned from you. I don't think I will get to 1000 of the same and even then it will get lost in my head. This way, I can always refer back, make sure I don't miss anything, and hopefully be able to finish a garment quicker. And of course, when I learn something new from you, I will add that in too💕💕
Very helpful, thanks
as someone who is so tempted to think i can just jump into advanced techniques like drafting my own patterns if i simply do enough reading/research, your teaching style is such a good reminder. it does all flow into each other and skipping beginning stages of the learning process is doing myself a disservice!
You're so good at sewing and I like your sewing it's so good yeah but yet to teach me how to solve because I don't know how to solve so you have to tell me to know how to solve I never saw your video so I'm not I'm so happy😂😂😂😂❤❤❤❤❤ I love your little videos I love them so much so I really like to watch it again
Thank you for this 😋
I once saw a sleeve hack that intrigued me. Sew the shoulder seams, but not the side seams. There is more control of the sleeve head when it's laid flat, supposedly. I tried it on a long sleeved chemise. Worked like a dream.
This works really well when making baby clothes where the armhole is tiny and very hard to sew around after the side seams are done.
And when you are surging
Yes Lorna this is an alternative construction method to the set in sleeve. (All men's business shirts are constructed like this!) There's a time and place for all different methods of course, I'm glad your experimenting and seeing what works for you!
I always sew sleeves in on the flat for knit garments.
That is my preferred method of setting sleeves. I default to this unless the side seams don't line up (eg jacket with two piece sleeve construction). I didn't realize that it's a hack...!
I have been trying to follow my first ever sewing pattern and have had to research every other word….No other video have been as helpful as you Evelyn! Knowledge is power and you are sharing this so succinctly and thoroughly! I am so grateful!
I think about garment construction in terms of "fitting points". I need to get the darts and shoulder seams done before I stop to check the fit on the side seams - the last easy place to adjust. Then I do the same with the collar or waist band -- do all of the construction until that point so I can check that fit and make adjustments. Hems are always done last.
I want to sew soooooooo bad but I hardly have any time for it! 😢 I am a mother of three, the youngest is a one year old boy. I watch this kind of videos to comfort myself for the lack of sewing in my life. 😄
How are you doing now?
Some kids patterns have a different order. For example, sleeves are sometimes sewn in the shoulder before sewing the seam under the arm and side seams. I really liked when the hem was sewn on pants and sleeves first on kids cloths. Otherwise these don't fit on the sewing machine sleeve very well. Anyway I liked it so sometimes I sew hems first because it's easier to iron. Flat hems anyway. I do curved hems last or hems I want to do by hand last. Some stretch fabrics don't needs hems.
I must confess that sometimes I will just serge my hem and wear the garment without hemming it, as I'm too impatient LOL! :D Also I will often serge all my raw edges before sewing anything together at the seams
😱😱😱😱😱 Ha ha ha it's your sewing and as long as your choosing for reasons that suits you, it's all fine! ❤
I learned the old Simplicity "Unit Method of Construction", which divided a skirt into three "units": front, back, and waistband and finishing. A blouse had front, back, sleeves, cuffs and collar and finishing. A dress was front, back, connect skirt and bodice if required, sleeves, and finally collar, cuffs and finishing. This has worked for me for years. The point was to finish each unit before moving onto the next to minimize the handling of each unit and make the sewing efficient but also allow one to tackle manageable chunks of a project.
I like this idea! It's similar to my outside shell idea, contruct those first and them sew those together!
I am so surprised that this is the only video I have been able to find on the order of operations for sewing!!! This is definitely how my brain works so this is very helpful. I would love to learn about the order of operations for garments with lining. 😅
I love this! It's like the first step to freeing the captive sewist. Their first steps outside into the wild.
A very nice way to put it!
This bird's-eye-view is so very helpful!!
I haven't commented on any of your posts yet, but I just had to take a moment to thank you.
You have made the effort and taken the time to produce these really great tutorials that essentially empower those who choose to take advantage.
Whether professional and improving thus more marketable, or someone sewing for themselves and loved ones to save $ or scenarios in between...
I appreciate your generosity.
Many thanks
Awww thankyou Maribelle! It makes my day to hear this and is exactly why I make these videos! I want to see everyone sewing and creating their own clothes! ❤
If making a dress I’d do the stay-stitching first, darts, shoulder seams, facings, side seams.
I just finished making a bag from my own design and pattern and I think it turned out pretty well. I noticed also as I get better that I stop following the instructions of patterns so closely because the right order comes to me more naturally now. But your explanation really makes sense. I want to make a two-piece suit as my next project and the instructions that come with the pattern are... curt, so to speak. I will try to come up with the right order by myself first and then match it to the instructions.
Sounds like the perfect plan to me! Good luck 😀
That's something that interest me. I mean, there's a few websites that give you free patterns but without instructions. So, knowing the order is very helpful
Sorry to hear you haven't been well.good to see you are better.
Thankyou Ann!
Thank You. Good review. I’ve been sewing garments and all other manner of sewing (upholstering, making drapes, curtains etc) for over 60 years and have just purchased the Lutterloh System in which there are absolutely no instructions. This will surely help anyone who is using this system of clothing construction. You are such a beautiful lady and you reminded me of Snow White as I was watching (definitely meant to be a compliment!)
She DOES have a Snow White vibe. Nailed it.
I always send pictures before the hems are done. Today I've been making t-shirts and I think I photographed every one of them before I'd done the hems!
Hi Evelyn. I used to make children's clothes to very similar patterns. After a while it was just automatic, didn't need those instructions ! I guess when you've made a few garments, its kind of the same thing. You do it without thinking. Great place to be, thanks for sharing.
Currently wearing a dress I haven’t hemmed 😂
😱😱😱😱😂😂😂
I posted this video in the “lutterloh system” group to help the members. This is great information...as always. Thanks.
Yes, really good for Lutterloh as there are no instructions at all.
missed you! thank you for the “aha moment,” funny how that was always there but never thought to unpack it. Brilliant Evelyn!
Wow. I didn't know that there was a certain order, but now that I think about it ... It definitely makes sense! Thank you
I tend to read through the instructions and then do it my way!
Great information. I'm odd though. I've never not hemmed something before I've worn it and I've sewn for over 50 years. I do like a challenge sometimes and found a bag of cut out pattern pieces at a rummage sale years ago. I recognized it as a long sleeved, button down shirt so I played with it. It was a little too small for me, but the print was Campbell's Pork and Beans cans. Too cute. These tips come in very handy for construction processes like I did.
That sounds darling! Wish I could see it
It's like Tetris. I was a Tetris master, and fitting pieces together in a particular order is not a hard puzzle for me, so far.
By my late teens, I rarely glanced at the instructions other than basic fabric layouts (and then I'd do my own to conserve fabric) or if there was a design detail that was new to me.
At age 30, I learned my lesson. Cut an entire jacket out, 15-20 separate pieces, directional due to corduroy type fabric. Took almost 3 hours. Marked notches, etc with chalk. Thought I would glance at instructions as I had never sewn a Burda pattern before...... no seam allowances on the pattern pieces! Back to the fabric store and repeat the whole process the next night!
When tackling something brand new - ALWAYS check out the instructions first!
BTW, using Dad's phone at the moment. As a woman, in all other endeavors, I always read the directions first. That was such a "guy" thing to do!
Enid Gilchrist put out a series of books in the 1950's and 60's. These showed you how to draft, alter and construct most types of clothes, The books also gave ideas on how to vary the design. My mother gave me her books (bought when I was a baby) when my daughter was born so I taught myself to draft and sew at the same time. Some fabric remnants and lots of experimentation meant my daughter had a unique and varied wardrobe. I then branched out to dresses for my then wife and shirts, trousers and jackets for myself. All this was on a treadle machine that had a motor added. It only did straight stitch and no reverse. Lots of French seams.
Wonderful channel. Hope you're on the mend and feeling better soon, Evelyn.
Thank you, yes I am much better 😀
After sewing for 20 + years it was so fun to watch this and get my beginner glasses on. It’s second nature for me, but how do I explain this to beginners? You did a very good job and I will send any who asks here 😜
😀 I know right! When you already know something, it's hard to imagine and remember what is like NOT knowing it! I enjoy breaking down concepts like these and trying to make them as simple as possible and easy to follow, what I wish I had when I was learning to sew!
So glad that you are explaining the why's of the order in which to sew a garment. It makes sense once it is explained. Thank you?
Great Video as always. I never thought to memorize the sequence of construction. Wonderful. I've got most of it down. Especially the pieces I've made several times. But I didn't really think about it as a very orderly sequence for all garment construction. Thank You.
No, I don't do the hem thing. Probably because the last time I sewed anything beyond a random button back on to some clothes was in 1998 and I was 13.
I inherited my grandmother's machine, years ago, but it is broken. I bought one of those mini machines about two years ago, but its been in the closet. Occasionally, I'll take it out of the closet and look at it as if I might do something before sticking it back in the closet.
Well, last week they opened a Hobby Lobby in my neighborhood. I've been wanting a potholder with bees on it but haven't been able to find one. Well, wouldn't you know they had a really nice bee fabric and all the fabric was on sale. I got the bright idea that maybe I should make my own potholders with that fabric.
While digging randomly through the pattern cabinet, I also found a nice summer dress pattern and a jacket/skirt pattern before finding the potholder pattern. I had the ladies that cut the fabric help me figure out how much fabric I needed and spent 20 mins trying to figure out what "insulated mylar" was before locating it on the shelf.
I get home with my stuff and open the pattern. I remember helping my grandmother cut patterns that she would sew. This is going to be fun... 10 mins later, what I have to wash the fabric? That would suck if it shrunk up. 5 mins later, oh I need this "batting" stuff too... crap. What the heck is a "selvage?" Google to the rescue, person on video says something about "notions." umm... checks package, crap I need ribbon and what the heck is "double fold bias tape?" Guess I'll figure it out at the store since I need to go back for batting anyways and apparently some buttons.
Ok, now maybe I can do this... Crap I need an iron. Do I still have my iron? Think I donated it when I moved... Yep. Gets a new iron. I don't remember how to iron. Feeling embarrassed I watch a bunch of TH-cam videos on how to iron fabric oh and the paper patterns. Ok, ok now I got this...
Tried reading directions on potholder... Umm... what is "narrow hem?" What is "gather?" Umm wait, how are they telling me to fold the fabric? Umm... Maybe the dress is easier. Puts aside potholder pattern and dumps out dress pattern. Wait did I get the notions for this? Crap... Oh, look it also needs a lining. Says, "Lining: Lining Fabrics" Umm... What? Google was not helpful. Go back to the store for "lining fabrics" with a picture of the pattern pack backside. Someone in the store helps me get a lining fabric. I realize the jacket probably needs lining too but don't have a picture of the back of the jacket pattern so I grab a fabric that will probably be nice in the jacket, but at the counter, I don't know how much I need, all I know is the jacket itself required 2.5 yards of fabric... Lady suggests I look at the pattern and come back later for the jacket lining and cuts the dress lining for me. I realize I also need "fusible interfacing" but have no idea what that is either. She points out where it is and asks what part of the dress it is for. I have no idea... I don't even know what fusible interfacing is... I get one that seems not super thick I dunno what I'm doing with this just that I need it to make the dress.
I get back home start reading the dress directions and realize that this thing is written in another language? Basting? This is fabric not a turkey! What the heck is a nap? How did my grandmother make such beautiful dresses and stuff? Man I hope I don't sew up a crooked mess trying to make a pot holder and a dress...
Ironing board covered in fabric, table, bed and part of the kitchen covered in paper pattern pieces and sewing supplies everywhere. I feel so confused, I'm a mechanic, not a seamstress. I can read wiring diagrams and fix electrical issues in my car, but this is the sewing equivalent of a wiring diagram and I don't understand the symbols. Might as well be Egyptian Hieroglyphics. There is a lot more to this than what I was thinking when I bought the pot holder pattern...
I think I've watched about six of your videos now and they have been helpful, but I should probably pin the patterns to the fabric and start cutting things as soon as I find a video that explains how to fold the fabric. If you read all of this thanks for the videos and I hope a few of you got a good laugh at my chaos.
😂 I think these are the thoughts we all have! If you want to go further with your sewing, I have all these lessons explaining each of these steps in Vintage Sewing School, if love to have you in class! Happy sewing
Love your chaotic story. I have also had to go to the fabric store a few times for notions a pattern calls for. I hope your sun dress turns out nice.
😂
Evelyn has a good video about laying out the pattern pieces different from what it says on the package. It covers folding. Worth watching.
@@aliceannjo Every DIY guy has the same issue with going to the hardware store, believe me. I'm not even a guy, and I had to go the hardware store several times, also.
Evelyn, I too do not recall ever wearing anything unhemmed! However, since I often sew a pattern many times after I drafted it and perfected the fit, I alter my steps in construction. For example, on a straight skirt that is gathered to a bodice ,I have been known to sew the skirt with the pockets, serge the edges together press the seams toward the front and then serge around the bottom and Hem it before attaching it to the bodice!
Not far off how my ma taught me, she could cut a dress skirt etc out without a pattern. She taught me to always sew the zip in first, it’s easier with two flat pieces of fabric. Any alterations on size etc was done on the other straight seams. But apart from that, you’re spot on. I only look at instructions if there is something I’ve not come across before, for instance the sleeve in the Iris Tee, which proved to be very simple actually, but I checked the instructions. Thanks Evelyn good instructive podcast.
Excellent informations! Cant wait to see more. Thanks!
thanks for the information! definitely learnt a lot ✌🏻🙌🏻
You inspire me and give me courage....every time!
❤ That's because, you've got this! 🙂
I find it much easier to set sleeves in, and sew them in, leaving 11/2" at each end of the sleeve seam unsewn, before doing underarm bodice and underarm sleeve seams. I then finish the last two inches of the sleeve seam under the arm. This is a whole lot less fiddly, and much easier to get into the machine. I also find it easier to measure, mark or pin hems, while the garment is relatively flat, then sew last. Collars are also done before finishing button plackets.
cheat sheet
1. Any internal features (i e. Darts)
2. Side seams, shell pieces
3. Openings and fastenings (buttonholes, zippers, plackets, etc)
4. Finishings (collars, armhole edges, cuffs, bindings, facings)
5. Hems
Thanks for this Elena 😀
@@Evelyn__Wood mostly wrote this so I could refer back to it later for myself xD
Thanks for this very helpful info, Evelyn!
Thank you, Evelyn!
Thank you for the video. Lots of good information!
Thank you for this Evelyn. As always a treasure trove of information. 🌸
Hmm. Never thought of it in its entirety. Usually I just think about whether to follow the pattern or attach the sleeve to the shoulder before sewing the sides.
Saamme 😂
And when it is intuitive, you can just scrap the rules and do what you want, because you know when it is possible to do things in a different order if you so choose.
Thank you for this it is so amazing to have. I made notes! I am about to start drafting blocks and it will really help me to know how to then put together the garments
Just found your channel!! You are fabulous - thank you so much for sharing so many amazing techniques!!! xo
Thanks for the info💕
Internal features: Also include welt pockets, patch pockets, and attaching pocket flaps. You might forget pockets completely if you're looking at commercial patterns for womens' clothing, because lazy and evil designers skip them. So we have to correct their errors.
Great video❤️ I've noticed there are two approaches to attaching sleeves. One is to make the shells and then attach the sleeve to the bodice and the other is to do 1. The shoulder seam 2. Attach sleeve head 3. Sew the whole side seam in one go..... I wonder what are the advantages and disadvantages of both🤔
I often do it your way too; makes it much easier and faster.
Yes these are the 2 techniques for sleeves. There is a time and place for each of course! As a general rule, anything looser fit and a flater sleeve head can use the second method of the sleeve and side seam in one 🙂 But otherwise for best results, a set in sleeve all the way!
I think the 2nd is aimed at stretch fabric, as it’s easier to put a stretch seam in flat.
@@m1m5yp28 that makes a lot of sence 🙈
This definitely helps! Thank you! Also do you think you can do a video on when to use the correct interfacing. Some patterns never really tell you what kind to get.
Yeah, so many kinds of interfacing. I'm next doing a shirt copy of one that is old and falling apart. I found the interfacing in the collar. Guess I'll have to bring it to a store to ask what it is and find something similar. Doesn't look like any interfacing I've ever seen.
Depending on the type of buttonholes you need, you will have to make them BEFORE you finish the garment. I'm looking at you bound buttonholes that i may have to undo my nearly finished skirt for.. it's even decently hemmed! T-T
I enjoy your video's so much 💖
Thanks far watching!!
Wow," your pattern won't come with instructions"🤔 damn. You got me. I didn't really think about this before😄
I know right 🤣 And I know because I had the same aspirations without realising I had alot to learn first!
This was how I was taught a hundred years ago!
Do you consider interfaces, notches etc as pattern preparation?
That's a good question! Beverly yes, I do consider this part of just the preparation before you start sewing!
Haha. I just remembered I have a completed dress hanging in my closet minus it's sleeves - too many hobbies. And nowhere to wear the dress so considering cutting it to tunic length🤔
The title of this amuses me because my immediate response is "No, I don't! Thank you for asking!" (and then thank you for teaching me :D )
❤❤
What a great video
Thank you for this. Could you do a video on when to fit for size while sewing? I think this is very important. Doing a whole lot of work before knowing the garment fits you is really a waste of time.
I first carefully burn off the edges using candle light before i start 'basting stitch then iron , sewing (× how many times i have to do it)' and lastly hem....
But if what im making is a blouse for myself...i would do the hem first after burning it in stead of what i just said because i like having slits in my blouse as my blouses reach around mid thigh...
See way to many posting their makes with that line...Just need to hem 😂😂
😂😂😂
I always get caught out by marking notches, dots etc then they get covered with interfacing. Why don't they say do that first?!
😂 I know! But I agree that you need to mark everything before you move and warp your pattern pieces from the cutting table. Try my 'little nicks' method of notching so there easier to find after fusing! th-cam.com/video/sgubgWmk9yE/w-d-xo.html
Only a couple things can be switched around such as the back pieces or sides first.
Ive got skirt pattren
💕💕💕
When you say write it down, do you, yourself write it down anywhere like a journal or another sheet of paper and insert that into the pattern envelope?
This is a good question Debbie! Yes, I used to write it down on paper, literally step-by-step ALL the instructions (and then when I make my own pattern write down all the steps in order before I start), in a sewing journal.
These days I do the same process but having much more practice, I can do it in my head these days! 🙂
Did you make the blouse you have on? It is beautiful on you.
I Thrifted this one!
I am learning the hard way to check the whole pattern most pertinently the pattern instructions. I am missing the whole front page of my pattern instructions for a vintage baby dress pattern .
Would you not do all the stay stitching as part of the internal
construction of your garment?
Could I hem a sleeve before setting the sleeve?
Yes! Most often you would finish the bodice 'shell' and finish the sleeve 'shell' as is easier to sew smaller pieces at the machine. Then sew sleeves to bodice!
That’s common in RTW.
What about when using lining?
To me, this order is quite intuitive. However, I've seen examples of people attaching sleeves before doing the side seams and attaching bottom ruffles to a skirt before the back seam. Mainly because it's easier to work with a flat piece. What's your view on that?
Its sometimes a necessity especially if you have older machines which dont have a turn around to do curved hems. By that i mean completely affixed to a table.
So I try to always do interfacing and the stay stitching. . It shocks me how sometimes the pattern doesn’t have you stay stitch until step 30 or so!
Right!!!
Hi beginner sewist here! I’m constructing a pleated apron skirt and was reading that pleats in a skirt must be made AFTER hemming the bottom . Is this true? as it defies the order !!
😃
💜💜 thanks Evelyn! ( that’s my middle name 😊)
Where does overlocking come into the order of construction?
In my younger years, I tried everything to avoid hemming. For jerseys, I would just leave the edges raw, and for other things, and I attached trims to other materials. Now I finish my garments properly, but hemming is definitely still my least favorite part.
For me, it’s buttonholes, so I avoid anything with buttonholes, unless I can adapt the closure in some way.
@@dale3404 Yes! I forgot about buttonholes. I avoided them for a whole decade, and I would spend hours sewing snaps on blouses instead. To be fair, my old machine always acted up for buttonholes...
@@sallylee4924
I’ve never had consistent buttonholes, even with my high-end machine. I’ve paid to have buttonholes sewn into a garment that I’ve made.
Funny I only hate hemming stretch fabrics, because you can’t (or I haven’t found a way) hand sew stretch. Sitting down at the end of a project with my needle and thread and putting a nice preferably ‘herringbone’ hand stitched hem on I find enjoyable (strange woman). It’s getting a nice level hem pressed before I start I find awful!!
I have a hem that has been unfinished for a year now. 😅
only one? 😹
Oh noooo!! 😱😂
I have to admit I had a pair of curtains that I put up to stretch, pinned and then forgot. Found out when I took them down to throw away!!! I did have young children at that time, it’s my only excuse!!
When do you overlocker?
Serging or overlocking can be done either/ both before or during construction. If seams are to be pressed flat after sewn then it is best to surge those edges before sewing the seam. However sometimes it works well to surge seam edges together after the side seam for example is sewn. Also it works if you are setting in the sleeve in the flat method, surging the edges together and then pressing the surged seam toward the main body of the shirt or dress. At that point you can also top stitch the seam in place.
I was wondering if you have any hints and suggestions for hemming when you're working alone and haven't got a dress form yet? I'm working on my first project which is a circle skirt and I've got the mockup all done up to the hem. I've let it hang and the fabric has dropped in places as expected but now I need to work out how the level off the hem as I don't have a dress form to hold it or someone else to mark it for me while I'm wearing it.
You should determine how long you want the skirt from the waistband to the hem. Lay the skirt flat on a table or the floor. Then use a measuring tape and a marking tool to measure outward from the waist band along the fabric and mark the proper length. Do this many times all around the fabric and then join the marks together like connect-the-dots. Use that line as the fold up edge if you're turning the hem and mark the seam allowance down from that line. Hope this helps!
@@nataliestanchevski4628 unfortunately I had trouble with that method. I have enough in the back that measuring it out that way gives a back hem that is noticeably higher than the front. For it to sit right and be even I need to have the back a bit longer but I have no idea how to work that out by myself
@@junelleward8591 have you tried the string method? Take a long piece of string/yarn/ribbon and tie a knot at the end. With your back facing a mirror hold the string at your waist and let it out (so it hangs over your butt) with the knot at the bottom and drop it down until the knot is hanging at the point where you'd like your hem to end. Keep holding the string at the waist point and mark it there with a marker. The length between the knot and mark is how long your finished skirt needs to be at the back, you can measure it to find the number in inches or cm. If you compare it to the length of the front skirt you can find the difference and use that number to add to the back length of any skirt you make in the future. On your circle skirt put a pin on the center front where you want the hem, and do the same with the center back (which will be longer than the front). Next place more pins around the skirt to mark the hem making sure to create a smooth curve from front to back. You can use math to divide the skirt into sections and determine how much length to add to each section as you move around the skirt from front to back evenly (but I'm not good with figuring out a formula to explain that) or you can eye it.
I'm pretty sure there are other ways to do this properly, but these methods have worked for me. I only have about 3/4 inch difference between front and back though, so it's not a big issue for me to correct. Now I usually just add the extra 3/4 inch to the pattern paper before I cut out the fabric. Hopefully if my suggestions don't help you you'll be able to find a video that does. Good luck!
How is the decision made to sew pieces together in a certain order?
Haha, hems - guilty 🤣
In which step would the lining of a garment take place? If one is trying to attach lining under the garment?
Are you lining or underling?
A lining
There are two main ways. 1. Flat-lining: this is when you treat the lining and it's corresponding outer fabric as a single piece, so you would just have one side seam (for example) that goes through 4 layers- front and back outer fabric and front and back lining. In this method the lining is attached to the outer fabric early on, before any of the main pattern pieces are joined together. The raw seams will show on the inside this way so you need to use some seam finishing method to make them cleaner, like a serged seam, Hong Kong finish, etc. 2. Bag lining: This is when you sew basically 2 separate garments, one out of lining and one out of the outer fabric, and then join them together near the end with the wrong sides facing eachother so that all your raw seam edges for both outer fabric and lining are sandwiched in between the outer fabric and lining. The garment could almost be reversible because the inside is just as clean and finished as the outside. Not a raw edge showing anywhere. Bag lining is used in higher quality garments. Often bag linings are used in conjunction with facings near any opening like a dress neckline or front center opening of a blazer, etc.
I am sewing a gown for a Regency ball. The bodice has underlining and fashion/bodice layer, treated as one piece with basted pleats. There is a gathered overlay as well. I have all pieces basted, as directed. When do I remove the basting stitches, for instance, for the pleats (not sewn down)? There is no mention of WHEN to remove these.
Your advice would be very helpful!
I have a foolproof trick for this: "don't do it the way I did it in my last project".