My Favorite and Most Commonly Used Items
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ต.ค. 2024
- Per request, here's a rapid fire round of some of my favorite and most commonly used components and tools in my projects. Click "Show more" below to see links to all the products shown.
You can also see all the links along with a photo of each item in my related blog article:
resinchemtech....
Item Links (in order shown):
Wemos D1 Mini ESP8266: amzn.to/3x3XBeR
NodeMCU ESP8266: amzn.to/3JcZyrI
ESP32 Mini: amzn.to/3LE0E1t
ESP32 NodeMCU: amzn.to/3u6k1KD
ElectroCookie Solderable Breadboard: amzn.to/37j25na
Raspberry Pi 3b Plus: amzn.to/3j6jXEg
32GB MicroSD card: amzn.to/3KbqJoe
Raspberry Pi Power Supply: amzn.to/3Jbt3u5
Raspberry Pi 3/3b Case: amzn.to/3u4TxJn
QuinLED Dig-Uno: quinled.info/p...
QuinLED Dig-Quad: quinled.info/p...
5V WS2812b RGB LEDs: amzn.to/3u8kXhx
5V WS2811 Bullet-style LEDs: amzn.to/3uasXyo
Common Cathode RGB LEDs: amzn.to/3u8SS9L
JST 3 pin Connectors: amzn.to/3J9dkM0
LED Snap On Connectors: amzn.to/3r43LHZ
Aluminum LED Channel: amzn.to/37e2OWz
3M Heavy Duty Foam Mounting Tape: amzn.to/3u7lPTr
5V 15A Brick Style Power Supply: amzn.to/35EFr8a
5V 30A Transformer Style Power Supply: amzn.to/3NNapvY
14 AWG 3 Conductor Power cord lead: amzn.to/3uX3JTo
Inline Fuse Holder and Fuses: amzn.to/3uXhzoS
1000 µF Capacitors: amzn.to/3DNrPnJ
3.3V-5V Bi-Directional Logic Level Shifter: amzn.to/418Gq94
QuinLED Data Booster: quinled.info/q...
POLOLU 5V step up/step down voltage regulator: amzn.to/3x5ZasT
12V to 5V Power Inverter cord: amzn.to/3DIZfUr
AC 110V to DC 5V Isolated Switching Power Module: amzn.to/3J8QuUI
Variable DC-DC buck converter 24V max: amzn.to/3xkv5pF
Variable DC-DC buck converter 28V max: amzn.to/3DDytwE
AM312 PIR Motion Sensor: amzn.to/3r5LqKJ
HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Distance Sensor: amzn.to/3J58rnb
TFMini Lidar Range Finder Sensor: amzn.to/3WMPltm
Infrared (IR) Receiver: amzn.to/36XTg2e
Infrared (IR) Remote: amzn.to/3DJz6EX
Normally Open Push button: amzn.to/37k3WYB
MAX9814 Electret Microphone: amzn.to/38k8MWm
Mini MP3 DFPlayer Module: amzn.to/3LGFUWP
8 Ohm Mini Speaker: amzn.to/3DGjMJk
Real Time Clock (RTC) Module: amzn.to/3r6kc6C
SG90 Micro Servo: amzn.to/3NQhLin
20kg Metal Gear Servo: amzn.to/3LK4rds
5V One Channel Relay Module: amzn.to/3x6l3bf
Magnetic Pogo 3 pin Connectors: amzn.to/37jJxDl
Fork and Ring Spade Connector Kit: amzn.to/3NT2g9i
Ferrule Crimping Kit: amzn.to/3O15bNw
WAGO Wire Connectors: amzn.to/3r4yeFS
Braided Wire Sleeve: amzn.to/3LOC6TD
Heat Shrink Tubing: amzn.to/3ua16yn
BAYKA 60W Soldering Iron (discontinued): amzn.to/3Je7sBk
No Clean Refillable Flux pen: amzn.to/3r7ivGi
Magnetic Helping Hands: amzn.to/3KgXPmw
Precision Tweezer Kit: amzn.to/3DHnSRB
Precision Screwdriver and Repair Kit: amzn.to/3KhzZay
Digital Multimeter (substitute model): amzn.to/3uaEkXe
Sonoff S31 Power Monitoring Smart Plug: amzn.to/3K7qrPb
Shelly 1PM Smart Relay: amzn.to/3uZNV2b
Sonoff S31 Lite: amzn.to/3r1v4mb
USB-to_TTL Adapter FT232: amzn.to/3M0Zo8X
USB-to-TTL Adapter CP2102: amzn.to/3J767Mp
Sonoff Zigbee S31 Lite Smart Plug: amzn.to/3NPFxer
Aqara Zigbee Door and Window Sensor: amzn.to/3DGyOie
Aqara Zigbee Motion Sensor: amzn.to/3KdEm6t
Creality Ender3 Pro 3D printer: amzn.to/37jWlcT
Hatchbox 1.75mm PLA Filament: amzn.to/3uZQSzN
Brother P-touch Label Maker (alternate model): amzn.to/35JcmZn
Some of the above links may be Amazon Affiliate links. While this does not affect your pricing, the channel may earn a small commission if you make a purchase.
If you'd like to say thanks and support the channel directly, you can:
Buy Me a Coffee: www.buymeacoff...
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.82[2/2] เมาท์มอยกับ 3 สาวเพื่อนซี้ ที่พร้อมขยี้พ่อหมีได้ทุกเมื่อ](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Wwn7WnylNtQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Fantastic! Thanks so much for sharing your expertise!
You're welcome! And thanks to you for taking time to watch and posting a comment!
Great overview.
I see i'm still missing some of them 😀
Fantastic video. Thank you for adding links. Alot of this is not available where I am, so i can easily add these to my amazon list now.
Thanks! I've had questions about the items I use in some of my other videos, so I thought it might be handy to pull everything together in a quick video with links... and to create a blog article of these items and links (with pictures) that viewers can come back to later when looking for a link to a particular item.
I hope you find it helpful for your projects!
Love your channel. This is a great video and helped save me lot of time looking for parts.
Thanks! I did this video in response to a lot of question about particular items that I used in my videos. While each video generally has a parts list for that project in the video description (or a related written version), I thought a quick roundup might be helpful. Also note that this video has a link to its own associated blog article with the parts. I will often update the blog article with new items that I discover or use as well... since I really can't update or add new items to the video! So, you might also peek at the blog article as it will have additional items not covered here: resinchemtech.blogspot.com/2022/04/my-favorite-items.html
Thanks for watching and taking time to leave a comment!
Cool, I recently discovered your channel and have been wondering about of few of the items you use a lot, like the tweezers and the helping hands soldering gizmo. Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work!
Glad you found me! Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Welcome to the channel!
I am so happy I found this channel. I have the same 3D printer but with many upgrades plus I use the same brand PLA and I've printed out many enclosures that you created. I enjoy reading through your website and github page!!
Thanks so much! I've been happy with my Ender 3 Pro... but I always found it funny that some of the first things you print are upgrades for the printer you just bought! I've done quite a few upgrades on mine as well, including upgrading the motherboard.
I hope the related blog articles and Github repos are helpful as well. Don't hesitate to let me know if you ever run into questions about any of my projects.
This is an awesome channel.... thank you for sharing
You are welcome. Thank you for taking time to leave a comment.
Great video with very useful info -- many thanks
Great video!! I've watched most of your videos and have wished I had a list of everything you use. This is perfect. Keep them coming. Irv in Florida
Hi irv! Haven't heard from you in a while. Hope all is going well down in Florida. Thanks for the comment. I hoped that by trying to bring all my most common components together in a common location (and a releated blog with photos), it might help others with their own projects when they were trying to remember a particular component or tool that they saw in one of my videos.
Just drop me a note and let me know if you run into any questions or problems down the road!
Great overview. We clearly shop at the same places - I use a lot of the same stuff - across the board. I've mostly converted over to the ESP32 D1 Mini for the increased speed, flexibility of GPIO, and memory - although I often only use the ESP8266-compatible inner pins.
Thanks! I like the ESP32 mini as well. I just wish ElectroCookie would come out with a version of their mini board that was just two rows wider! I'd use the ESP32 mini a lot more if I could still easily fit it on the mini board. I'm not quite ready for creating my own PCBs yet... but I promise it's on my list!
I love your videos it really learns me a lot!
Thank you! I'm glad you find them helpful. Thanks for watching!
One more question: I’m going to be using Aluminum Channels for LED under a floating cabinet 8” above floor. I don’t want to screw brackets underneath there. Would the 3M double sided adhesive tape hold the channels? Should I use a continuous strip or small, segments? This tape is expensive and the cabinet is 10ft long. Thanks.
Well, I haven't actually tried the double-sided tape to actually hold the aluminum channel in place. But it's pretty strong stuff and I suspect it would work OK. I'd just assure the surface you are mounting to is clean (I'd probably also wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol after cleaning, and then let it dry thoroughly).
The tape isn't necessarily cheap, but a 100' roll will cover quite a few LED projects. And right now, I believe there is also a coupon available on Amazon for an additional 10% off: amzn.to/3SU4cl2 I've tried other brands, but the 3M brand has been the best by far and I have been able to remove it from surfaces (when necessary) without damaging the surface... but I've never tried it on something like painted drywall. The width is also idea for both the aluminum channel and the LED strip.
Honestly, I'd probably run one long strip, but might just cut it into segments (2-3 ft) if it makes it easier to install and align. It would depend on the situation and installation location.
@@ResinChemTech thank you once again.
Quick question: what size wire sleeve should I buy to combine 3 18AWG copper strand wires? 1/8” 1/4” or 1/2”? Thanks.
1/8" will definitely be too small for 3 18 guage and 1/2" will be way too big. You can probably get the three wires through the 1/4", but 3/8" would probably work as well. For me, it would somewhat depend on the length. I'd try to use 1/4", but it will be a relatively tight fit (which is ideal) but it if was a long wiring run it might be tough to get all three wires through equally without snagging or getting hung up. In that case, I would possibly considering using 3/8". 1/4" and 3/8" are the sizes I use most often, so it might be worth picking up both sizes and having them on hand.
I generally only use the 1/4" for two wire runs of 18 gauge or smaller and only use the 1/2" for bundles of 4 or 5 wires (normally 20 gauge or so). But I do keep an assortment of all the sizes and make the determination based on not only the gauge and number of wires, but the length of sleeve I need to pass the wire through. It is a bit of a learned art form in getting wires passed through the sleeve. The ends will get frayed no matter what you do, so I normally put a small piece of heat shrink tubing over each end, slide the frayed ends under the tubing and then apply heat to the tubing to give the best overall finish (but be careful with the heat, as the braided sleeve will melt pretty easily).
@@ResinChemTech thank you. Really appreciate the detailed answer.
Great channel! We definitely have the same interests. I have the same label maker but still find myself purchasing duplicates or more all the time.
Subscribed and looking forward to future videos!
Thanks! I pretty much did this video because I get asked a lot in the comments about some particular item that I used... like the soldering iron or helping hands. So, I thought I'd throw together a quick video that showed most of my most commonly used items with links, as an easy reference that people could refer back to.
And thanks for subscribing! Don't hesitate to reach out if I can help out with any of your projects... or if you have any ideas of videos you might like to see.
It's quite reassuring to see the tools I have listed here.
Thanks!!!!!
You're welcome! I hope you find it useful for your own projects.
Now when my wife asks what some of my stuff is, I will send her to this video
Ha! I could show it to my wife, but she still wouldn't know (or really care)... just as long as her favorite automations keep working, she really doesn't want to know the how or what makes them work.
Thanks for watching and your comment made me laugh!
Great video again. I wonder if I can use the inline fuses. Does voltage matter?
While the fuses are meant to 'blow' based on current/amps, they are rated for a max. voltage. The ones that I showed are generally used in cars, motorcycles, boats, etc., which are normally 12/24V systems and would be fine for something like a normal LED installation. If you need to fuse something high voltage, you can also look at the glass "cartridge" style fuse and holder. Those are generally rated for use to around 250V. As with any electronic component, always check the specs to be sure it is properly rated for both voltage and amperage of your project.
Another question: what’s you favourite brick style Power Supply for 12V, 8.5A or 10A. Something that’s reliable? And I see most of them have a bulky round something on the DC wire aide… electromagnetic something something haha… I want to keep the wire as short as possible, is it OK to cut that part out? I will be connecting the PS to a Dig Uno.. thanks..
Most of the power supplies I've used are 5V, but I have used this 12V 10A power supply and it worked just fine: amzn.to/3Jmr9dx I've also used numerous 5V power supplies from the same brand without issue. I've used other brands as well. For me, the important factors are overload/over voltage cutoff, thermal cutoff and short circuit protection (which I've inadvertently verified actually works!)
The 'bulky round thing' you are talking about is a ferrite bead, I believe. It's purpose is to reduce EMI. Yes, you can cut it off and not affect the voltage. It could just result in a little more noise emanating... but likely will not impact anything to any real amount.
Have you tried working with iDeal or Surplife? Is there a way to load either of these on an ESP32? I'm new to this techy stuff so I'm trying to find a controller with a simple interface besides WLED.
I haven't worked with either, but I believe those are specific manufacturers and even if it was possible, I don't believe they make their firmware publicly available so that you can load onto your own ESP/controller device. And in addition, their apps are generally designed to work with their own LED products... although you can sometimes hack them to work with other strips.
You are generally referring to commercial products with an app for your phone and their own line of products. WLED (and related firmware like Tasmota, ESPHome, Arduino, etc.) are for building your own controller from scratch. While it is sometimes possible, you normally can't 'mix and match' commercial products with DIY products. Although there are some 'commercial' products that come with DIY firmware (like WLED and Tasmota) pre-flashed for you.
@@ResinChemTech I poked around and found a couple of controllers that are corrected to rgbic lights with heat shrink connectors and a couple of stand alone controllers I can use. I'm thinking I can connect it to 5v PS and connect the the data wire to my 12v or 24v lights that are connected to 12v/24v power supply. I've got about 350 leds but want to be able to add about 200 more later on.
You used same link for TFmini and ultrasonic sensors, no link for TFmini Lidar
Yep... you are right! I did the same thing in the related blog article. Both are fixed now.
Thanks for the heads-up!
I set up an esp32 for wled in an item I made for a friend. Worked great. He picked it up but his phone doesn't have wled showing up in available wifi and neither does his wife. Any ideas?
Are you saying the WLED-AP hot spot is not showing up as an available wifi network on their phones? Did you onboard the device to your WIFI when you made the device? If you entered in your Wifi SSID and password, then the ESP32/WLED may not be broadcasting the original WLED-AP hotspot because it is attempting to connect to your wif. (although if it does not connect to wifi, it is supposed to start rebroadcasting the AP hotspot - you might leave it powered on for a bit and see if the WLED hotspot begins broadcasting after a time... not sure how long this takes for the wifi connection to timeout, but I'd let it run for at least 15-30 minutes).
If the WLED-AP hot spot still does not appear, you may need to reflash the device with WLED to wipe out your wifi information. You can also try installing the WLED mobile app and have it try to detect the device on the network. If you get lucky and it finds it (unlikely), you can then use the mobile app to go in and update wifi information.
If you are talking about something else in the onboarding process, let me know. Also let me know if you get it resolved or if leaving the ESP32 powered on for a while results in the hotspot eventually showing up.
@ResinChem Tech thanks for the reply. No I didn't put any of my info in it. I left it all default except for the number of lights. He has a new wifi showing up but its call leisure510w......
I told him type in wled1234 for that password to see what happens. I also sent him a link to a page going through in detail how to do everything. That page has a qrcode to scan in the event the wled ap isn't showing up. I told him go through that and if he still can't get it I'll come fix it up Sunday.
That's weird! I do know that you can change the default hotspot AP name, but that basically involves compiling your own version. Maybe the QR code will do the trick. Let me know what you find out... especially if you have to make a trip. I haven't heard of a problem similar to this with WLED, so I'll be curious what you find out.
@ResinChem Tech I think what happened was since I flashed it at my house and he lives about 100 miles away in the next state the esp32 is locked on my access point. I should've gotten his wifi info and put it in and he could edit the password later. I'm going to grab my laptop and make a trip tomorrow. Thanks for the input
So, leaving the controller on for a while didn't result in the hotspot starting to broadcast? That's at least the way WLED is supposed to work. If it can't get a successful connection to the wifi, it should start rebroadcasting the hotspot, unless you changed the AP/hotspot settings within the WLED-AP settings. By default, these settings are to broadcast AP after connection failure, but there are options to disable the AP altogether... or to hide the AP. I'm just trying to save you a long trip if, in fact, the hotspot is broadcasting. But if you do eventually have to make that trip, check the 'Configure Access Point' under the WLED wifi setup. I'd be curious if these were changed somehow from the defaults.