2:50 This description should be interpreted as a ‘substitute for welding’, not that it should be used in the same way. Adhesive requires surface contact on both sides, the more the better. The logic behind some Aliexpress descriptions is more than questionable.
To be fair to Ali, quite a few North American brand glues use the word "weld" in either their name or description. "Weldbond" and "JB Weld" comes to mind...
since this is part 11, can we do a compiled video of 10 parts showing only thums up products. that will be very usefull since every good thing will be in one place and can be done every 10 parts
Hey i'm finding some of the thumb down products rather attractive because my use case may be different enough to where they may be just what's called for. Though of course there are some absolute hopeless ones, but then, it's still good to know so one doesn't accidentally buy them :D
Capacitive touch sensors tend not to work quite as well when run off battery. I'm guessing it is a static charge issue. The Ic is probably something like AT42QT1012. Because it is cheap and does barely enough. The power draw is listed as being exceptionally low. ~50 microwatts 1.8v to 5v. Could be a nice way to wake up a project in a glass tupperware. I am curious what current it actually draws with all the other parts.
@@badmood88 The more common reason for capacitive touch sensors being iffy on battery power is that they tend to be very sensitive to input voltage & noise, and most battery power setups either have significant droop as the battery discharges or significant electrical noise from overly cost-optimised switching-mode power supplies.
@@nimoy007 Agreed. Overly cost-optimized SMPSes can be rather terrible in general. Overly cost-optimized battery-operated SMPSes tend to be worse. (My guess here is due to testing at only one or two voltages combined with a relatively wide input voltage range, and significant source impedance as voltage drops.)
@@greatscottlab Btw Both surfaces should be degreased and made more rough with sanding paper before applying glue - not sure you did that......but still glue can never beat welding...
@@great__success This. Good surface preparation will make the difference between a very strong bond and one that falls off of slightly tapped with a hammer.
With the torque wrench, use caution and follow best practices. The beeping kind can easily overtorque something compared to the click-type. Also, you cannot accurately check the torque of a bolt that is already torqued down because of static friction (or stiction). So I'd say it's great for your application where torque isn't critical, but if you start getting into areas like automotive, where torque can really start to matter, do your research. There's a great youtube channel that properly tests torque wrenches and torque myths.
Snap-on digital torque wrench was the best I used while working as a bus mechanic. The LED indicators showing you how close you are to the set torque value is brilliant for creeping up on the right number. Every other kind of torque wrench I've used didn't come close to the snap-on one.
so I have used that same UHU epoxy and that stuff is amazing. It is strong, it hardens in a day, it sticks to basically anything except polypropylene and teflon (expected) But it doesn't fully cure unless you bake it at 200C If you bake it for 5-10 minutes at 200C it'll be MUCH stronger than at room temperature and it'll cure faster of course UHU has a curing chart with temperature, time and strength on it
@@f.avilla6383 not exactly There is a chart with curing temperature, time and strength on the back of the package and online also It's easy to miss if you don't exactly read every bit of information about something as simple to as glue I am not sure if the instructions themselves say anything about it
@@Cjarka_ cool. thanks. i usually just use JB weld/Quick Steel for minor repairs. at work i had to use expensive epoxy for manufacturing applications, and i wanted to make the process faster (it took 8 hrs to dry) and asked if i could heat it up, and they said no, due to risk of fire or unknown issues when heat is applied to that epoxy. it might effect the chemistry or durability, etc.
The laser level still looks kind of nice to me. I've been in a situation where I just wanted to align things along a line that isn't level to the ground, and with this, you can also see the exact angle that you're aiming towards, at the same time.
I need to do a fence some time soon... A cheap laser line will be very helpful for putting in the posts. It's just a farm fence so doesn't need to be perfect, but lining them up along the property boundary will be easier with a laser than string.
Be careful though, I have the same laser "level" and my experience matches with Scott : the readings are inaccurate. If you put it on a flat surface, it reads one value one way, and a different value when you flip it 180°... It's fine if you don"t need to be super accurate (within 1°, I'd say), but useless otherwise
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Those cheap lasers can be quite difficult to see in daylight. For outside work you probably want one of those rotating laser levels. (but they are rather expensive) 😮@@tin2001
The comedic value of Chinglish is often worth more than the price of the product. Nothing like a good belly aching laugh, even when the purchase turns out to be a total fail. Unfortunately, AI is slowly replacing it.
Is it really stronger than UHU 300? There's a trick that is recommended by UHU but generally works with other epoxies as well. If you raise the curing temperature to around 60-70°C, you can double the ultimate strength, plus it cures quicker.
I don't think the way he connected those two metal pieces JB weld would made much of a difference. When there is surface area it can get between the bond is incredibly strong, but the way he did it.
I know a guy who worked for an old farmer that used to repair cracked tractor blocks with original jb weld. Probably only worked for coolant cracks. I doubt seriously that it would hold against any compression, especially diesel but that's still pretty impressive.
Watch the epoxy video of project farm here on TH-cam. It's incredible strong compared to other epoxys. He also explains the reason is the very slow curing time. All the semi transparent epoxys (mostly German made) are way weaker due to my experience. @@SianaGearz
6:00 - be careful. The limiting factor for most MOSFETs is _not_ the rated current per se - it's the junction temperature. Those max currents are usually essentially "note that even if you somehow keep the junction temperature within limits, you _still_ shouldn't switch more than this current lest you potentially get local hotspots & thermal runaway". Unfortunately, calculating if this is in spec for the FET is nontrivial for a PWM device, as it depends on the switching waveform.
Bought it here in the Benelux via Amazon. A lamppost in cast iron fell down during a storm and 1 arm broke. That was about 10 years ago. I used JB Weld and it has held up perfectly outside all this time. Nearly forgot that I did this. It was kind of expensive but certainly worth it.
Yes, this appears to be a generic version of JB Weld. While it's definitely not a replacement for real welding, I will say that JB Weld is an excellent product that will work in many cases where normal epoxies simply don't and it's surprisingly good with most plastics as well as metal. It's good stuff, but I would gladly pay more for the real thing in this case as I use JB Weld in more critical applications than a normal expoxy like Gorilla; I don't want cheap epoxy in these situations. He doesn't test any generic JB Weld options, but Project Farm has one or more videos testing glues and epoxies and I recommend watching those.
By coincidence, I tried to do a job with the 'laser thingy' this morning and I have to concur, for the price the build quality and amount of functionality is stunning. But it is not very practical or accurate, and I quickly reverted to a simple spirit level!
@@greatscottlabI got a laser level like the one you had for like 10 bucks on Ali. From a brand called Hilti or something like that. I mount it on a camera tripod and it seems to work quite well.
There are auto-levelers that are much cheaper than the mentioned Bosch. I've been using a 'noname' Tacklife one I bought a few years back for less than €30, and I haven't had a badly leveled thing in my house ever since.
Exact same experience here, it's not accurate at all If I remember correctly (bought it quite a while ago), when I took it apart, the electronic was accurate on its own, but as soon as you assemble it, it's off by a degree or so. I think the circuit board sits crooked in the housing or something like that....
Please note lifetime warranty doesn't mean for your lifetime it means for the expected lifetime of the product so would probably be 7 to 10 years, read the legalize that came with it to see what "lifetime" actually means.
Nope. On their website they state, that you can _always_ exchange the product as long as it doesn't have damages from being used incorrectly or you had it repaired by a third party. But it only counts for business partners (and I guess Scott is self-employed so he's able to make use of the promise).
Each manufacturer is allowed to define what "lifetime" means. Before they thankfully went bankrupt, Briggs and Stratton removed the ability to change the oil or filter in their lawnmowers, announcing "lifetime oil, never needs changing." In the small print, "lifetime" was defined as "two seasons." So, their lawnmowers would last two years without an oil change. Exactly the same as any lawnmower.
Make the hole in the flange big enough for the pipe, push the pipe through and weld it on the outer side. It will leak just as much, but the hideous crappy weld will be hidden. The trick with welding is to melt the base material while adding more. Look at the molten pool, not at the arc.
You definitely over-torqued some of your bolts there. And for few of them the beeping was telling you that the 14nm was already reached....but was it at 45?
Glue has strong strengths (sheer strength) and weak weaknesses (tensile strength). The way you applied the glue didn't play to it's strengths... But this was an enjoyable and useful video, so thumbs up and I hope you make many more in this series going forward!
we have those desoldering tweezers at my job and they are the perfect tool when debugging dead components on a board that is mounted inside an enclosure. They heat up really fast and when the handle is tightened properly they can be precise enough for all small smd components with 2 or 4 pads (I sometimes use them on small ICs too, just need extra solder). Also out of all the soldering irons we have this one is among the oldest but somehow its tips still look brand new. It's a great tool that does the job very quickly, very valuable.
I actually hate these kind of desoldering tips. If you don't handle them correctly they get bend and if you don't clean them propably the solder doesn't stick to them anymore.. some colleagues do that to them sometimes.. However I also used them brand new, and also hated them. (And they were some of the known big brands). + the tips are expensive. I just use two soldering irons 😅, works way better.
There are auto leveling pendulum laser devices similar to the Bosch you have on Ali. I recently got one branded "Hilda" for around 15 euro and it works in the same way. The Bosch will be way better quality for sure, but for casual usage this Chinese one works pretty good! Great video, as usual! thanks :)
@@bluedistortions Mouser sells a HD404MSO for 21K (not that 9K is cheap even for an oscilloscope especially for a non "high end" professional so I can't see your point on top of that you can find 2nd hand Mercedes cars at that price too lol)
Instead of getting the torque wrench may be nicer to use your higher quality wrenches and torque adapter. Torque test channel test few of them recently
I'm really pleased with my digital torque adapter. I tested it against my larger torque wrenches. It's been a few years and it still measures accurately, so I gave away the big clickers so I could downsize my toolbox.
@backgammonbacon So true! Most smartphones will only draw up to 18W or 25W from the charger, even if the charger can deliver more power. It is the device that decides the amount of power it will draw. Maybe some specific devices will require 65W or above, just like some notebooks that are powered via USB-C.
I soldered 8 hours a day for 4 years and think hot tweezers are pretty dumb. High quality tweezers for less than $5 and hot air station for $45 work good for anything you need. Other than that, a good hot plate and $105 dollar hakko are literally the only tools I Will use. Other than that I did have a $900 hakko solder sucker, that was worth the money.
A nice thing about the touch sensor switch is that you can use it to activate a relay. The right relay can power just about anything, at any voltage or current level you want. It doesn't have to be used with low voltage or low power.
I really like all of your videos, but I don't understand why Keysight is sponsoring all of my favorite youtubers with their latest oscilloscope. Very few of your general audience will ever be able to afford this behemoth of an instrument - neither will they have a use for even 10% of its functions... I bought my red cross laser thingy from Lidl for a fraction of what you have paid for your green one. It came without tripod but with a standard screw mount compatible with any photographic tripod. It is self-leveling with some free swinging laser mount inside.
I've found the inline USB meters helpful on the go for troubleshooting charging issues with loose connections and worn cables. The instant-on display provides better feedback when wiggling stuff to find a loose connection, current shows the approximate state of charge on things that don't have a display and voltage tells you if the setup is quickcharging properly when you're in a hurry.
If you're trying to join materials with any type of glue or adhesives, it's really helpful to rough up the surface with some abrasive materials first. Just like anything else glue needs some texture to grab on to.
Was kinda hoping you would step it up to 10 items per episode after ep10. I love finding hidden gems on Ali myself and these videos are great to watch. You really put some work into them, thanks!
If you want to join those metal parts without welding cut the hole in the base 0.5mm smaller than the pipe. Heat the base part to expand and cool the pipe to contract, then bring them together. It's how they used to make bike frames.👍
For removing discrete components with an iron, I use a chisel tip that is as wide as the component is long. If you attack it from the side you can heat up both ends at the same time and the component will stick to the melted solder on the end of the iron. Remove the old part from the iron tip with tweezers.
I have probably a dozen of those touch sensors in my electrical junk. We had a local custom home builder that loves accent lighting but doesn’t like quality parts, so i have been removing them and replacing the lights with better quality contact switches and better lights. Btw, torque wrenches are a tool you don’t want to go cheap with. It might work at first but if you set it down too hard or drop it, you’ll never get the same readings again. My torque wrenches are calibrated every year, something you can’t do with cheap ones.
Someone actually tested it, was it Project Farm or Torque Test channel... it apparently takes an extraordinary amount of cruelty to actually upset them, and the warning is an abundance of precaution as well as manufacturers covering their arse. Also electronic torque wrench doesn't really work on the same principle, and have rather different flaws, but given it's made by Shahe, i'd expect it to work just fine if used as intended, their tools aren't made to compete with upmarket ones but you're not exactly scraping the very bottom of the barrel either.
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1:50 I really like that stuff, had some laying around in the attic, probably from my grandpa and 25+ years old and it still worked.
8:00 I personally have the same opinion that tweezers mostly aren't worth it. I really like wave/hollow/flow tips. They are just like the bevel type, but concaved. With the tip you can access tricky spots with good thermal throughput, and with the small 'bath' of solder, you can reach over 0603 components with ease. Also, if you empty your 'bath', it wants to suck solder back. So you can remove solder without extra tools. This is especially useful when soldering large IC's, by simply brushing over the pins. Use enough flux and each pin gets a perfect solder bond.
2:55 you needed to put the metal weld glue down, then stick them together sandwiching the glue in-between. Then putting it around like you did will help some
I actually bought the USB C cable with the built in display on it because of you vid a long time ago! Still works, and is still my favorite cable. Use it every day. Love these vids, I hope they keep coming!
With the torque wrench, if you go into the set-up mode, you have a setting to turn on a backlight whilst you are torquing your required item - great videos, thank you very much for all your hard work - please keep them coming!
I recently got a tiny range finder that looks exactly like that laser level. I thought that's what you were reviewing from the thumbnail! In any case, I've been quite happy with it for measuring rooms, furniture, etc. Thanks again for all the wonderful showing of goodies! I got a reviewed hotplate for repairing a friend's game cartridge, and I couldn't believe how easy it was. I wouldn't have committed to one without your video!
Pro tip: Take that torque wrench and add grease to the head. The front plate is held on with two screws on the back, you remove those screws and remove the anvil so you can add grease to it. SuperLube seems to be a decent choice. It'll make your ratchet feel all new :D
For good quality "structural adhesive", I can highly recommend 3M Scotch-Weld. I had some aluminum parts (T slot channel and some panels) that I needed bonding without fasteners. After some rough sanding with 80 grit to remove the anodized layer I bonded all the parts. The results were exceptionally good.
There are 240w power Display inserts that will also allow 40 Gbps through them. They are nice. I bought a pair, but they are limited to 140w / 28V, but they don’t hamper my USB4 SSD enclosure, and they also allow me to measure the power draw and the voltage on the V+ line
@@enihi it is a Maiwo, and uses an ASM2464PD chip, which apparently has a high draw. Around 8 watts active, 3 watts when inactive. A little less when connected at USB4 20 Gbps. Much less when connected at 10 Gbps, just 3 watts active and 1 watt inactive.
Awesome video. May I request you do a review on high capacity usb c LIION rechargeable AAA and AA batterries for your next one please? Have seen these new type being introduced on ALI Express and I am usually very careful when using anything using Li ion batteries. Thanks for your awesome channel. Keep it up.
I got a Worx electric screwdriver on the site. I've used a few in my time, but this one really is a nice bit of kit. It's not much bigger than a normal screwdriver but has the torque of what used to be a heavy drill sized thing. It comes in a handy plastic case as well where you can take a case to your work and you have every bit you need. For a piece of industrial design, I'll give it 10/10. Well done China!
Glue is never a proper substitute for welding, but Chinese epoxy was really useful for an issue I had. A towing company broke the plastic turn-signal in my car. 5 minutes and 10 cents worth of glue fixed it real good and probably saved me a fortune. The de-soldering device looks interesting, but I came across a suggestion online some time ago. Just use two soldering irons. I have a second backup soldering iron anyway, but even a cheap iron would be okay for this. Works for me. As GreatScott suggests, I also have a hot plate, a vacuum de-soldering pump, and a hot air gun, as there really isn't a 'one-size-fits-all' de-soldering solution.
Try ABRO Epoxy Steel Adhesive 4-Minute Kwik-Set. I've used it in all kinds of repairs. I believe in it. It's also a fraction of the price of your UHU plus. Remember, the key to a strong bond with these epoxy adhesives is to roughen the two surfaces with something like a hacksaw or rough file and apply on both sides. Cheers ✊
Love this series! It gets me thinking about what projects I'd use most of this stuff for I rarely buy anything but I might get the USB C watt meter (to complement my better one that shows current draw and voltage, but which is much larger) A bit weary on that wireless switch though...
Every auto parts store in the US has JB Weld(steel reinforced 2 part epoxy) and the small 2 oz container is about $6 or 7. The convenience and cost makes it hard to want to spend $3.5 + shipping on the Chinese 2 part. Love this series!
Beware that JBC tweezers require a dedicated soldering station (or a combo station that has both normal and tweezers output), so buying just the tweezers in your case wouldn't be enough. That being said, we have the dedicated station at my work and it performs well, as expected from JBC.
IKR? I bought it even if he said it was bad. Got it, and it's not bad, but you need to be aware that there's a rubber gasket around the USB charging input, so that makes it tilt, so just remove that. And yeah, the thing is totally awesome, love the futuristic looks.
The hot tweezer station looks good to recap some horrendous SMD electrolytic caps without stressing the board or the other components too much. That epoxy seems surprisingly good, if you don't expect miracles out of it. I mean UHU makes its own metal epoxy, it's also a little thicker and heavier.
@6:55 I've been looking forward to buying that hot tweezers on AliExpress, it's been on my wishlist for ages now, so glad to finally see a review about it.
PD3.1 is going to ONLY be useful for things like laptops(who struggle to sip little enough power to go under 100w as the standard is 20v and 5a is not enough at 20v) it might be OK for things like large displays or projectors, but literally no small devices will use >20v as 100W is almost NEVER needed I would love to have a pinecil that uses 48v 5a the current implementation is limited to ~20v 5a or less due to tip resistance, which granted is often around 60-80w for a tiny tip, but having a mega tip on my pinecil(mega version, big hands and big joints friendly) that can sip 240W in bursts would be so useful beyond that 48v is tough to even justify, most buck regulators tend to get more expensive once you cross the 30v threshold(something to do with power supply safety testing I suspect) get yourself a 100w PD3.0 powerbank and be happy until most laptops ditch non-standard plugs and go 240w PD
You left "gaming" off that description... Traditional laptop power supplies were always 18.5-19.5V at 3-3.5A (60-65W). Many laptops now come with lower output power supplies.
Thanks for the video. The no touch, wood penetrating switch sensor seems pretty cool. I am not certain why you gave the level an "inaccurate" rating... if it matches the Spirit Level, it would just be accurate, but too "cumbersome". Welding melts the surface, and allows the two metals to join together, if you only add glue to the "edge", but not the bottom contact faces, it won't do anywhere near as well as it could have. I doubt it will ever be as good as the weld, but, if you don't apply it properly it won't work anywhere near as well either. Please consider repeating the glue test by adding glue to the mating surface as well.
The level might be more useful for angular measurements. There is where the pendulum laser is unusable. Building a roof with windows and other things I know this from first hand experience. Otherwise thank you. Useful information as usual.
Not sure if it's common with brands in Germany, but "lifetime warranties" are fairly common with U.S. tool brands. This doesn't always indicate the highest quality, however, as it mainly means that the brand sees an acceptable number of warranty claims that help to market the brand with substantially impacting its finances; buyers like lifetime warranties and will thus prefer brands that offer them. Even still, very cheap brands may not be able to afford such warranties as their claim rates may wipe out their profits. Tools with lifetime warranties thus tend to be of decent quality. Warranties are not really about quality, but about their marketing benefits versus the cost of claims.
„Lifetime Warranties” are not common in Germany and probably rest of Europe because it’s not Very clear for the buyer how long a “Lifetime” is it really. It’s mostly self defined for every product and doesn’t match with the exception of the buyer. So it’s misleading and that’s not allowed in Germany.
IMPORTANT Info on the torque wrench: you have to take care of how you apply force to it. You can easily get FALSE readings if you are "holding it wrong™". It is, essentially, just a standard ratchet, with a load cell glued to the shaft somewhere under the electronics case. Unlike the high-end (and expensive) electronic torque wrenches, which have the sensor placed in a way to minimise measurement error, this wrench simply measures the deflection of the wrench shaft. Of course, you can easily cause deflection of the shaft by trying to bend the wrench. I can easily get it to show a couple of Nm by simply bending it, without anything being attached to the square drive. Accordingly, you can cause false readings in use by gripping the handle too tight or holding the ratchet by the head. If you take a look at the calibration sheet, it mentions something about measuring with the centre notch. On the handle, there is a notch in the middle of the handle: this is where you need to apply pressure to have it read right. I just hook 3 fingers around it, with the middle finger on the notch, and pull (without gripping the handle). To conclude, it is ONLY accurate if you use it correctly. Fair enough, IMHO, for the price you shouldn't expect more. However, I wouldn't recommend it. I got it to complement or replace my mechanical torque wrench, and must say that it's rather cumbersome to use, the control interface is confusing and not intuitive, and the display is difficult to read under some conditions. Setting the mechanical wrench to desired torque and it's mechanical feedback are much easier to use.
This series is something that I really wanted but didn't know. I wonder if there are trustworthy channels like yours doing the same thing but on other categories (garden, home, etc.)
I remove 2 pin SMD components exrremely quickly, with just a normal fine soldering iron tip. Put a blob of solder on the iron tip with the iron horizontal so the blob kind of hangs from the side of the tip, then touch the blob across the entire component. The component will instantly de-solder from the PCB and be stuck to the blob, so immediately after that, tap the iron on the table etc and the blob and component will pop off the tip and be on the table. It sounds rough, but I can remove components in about a second each and yes they are ok to re-use because they were only hot for a second.
the knife blade-type tips are especially great for that :) > tap the iron on the table there's a risk of damaging the expensive ceramic heating element. It's better to just wipe the tip with a napkin
@@ewfreg5nythyhtewt4w I like the tap, I have a flat glass plate I use for SMD work, and the tap is very fast for getting the blob off the tip and also the "splat" when it hits the glass often separates the component from the solder blob. It only takes a tiny amount of force. I've been using that method since the late 90's. 🙂
It only doesn't work for LEDs very well. And particularly it doesn't work for large SMD electrolytic capacitors and other large and tall two-pad components very well at all! Which is why i have been considering hot tweezers myself.
On these digital torquemeters you have to place your hand in the middle of the handle to get accurate results. This is because they rely on the bending torque in the area under the display which is influenced by where the force is applied.
For the laser and the USB, I clicked on the link and was rewaed with astonishing low price. Then I signed in and suddenly the laser price was multiply buy 2 and the USB C was not available. I went to Banggood and the price of the laser was €2 more. So I ordered from them to give the 2 fingers (UK style) to Aliexpress!
If I ever start a TH-cam channel I want my sponsors to be oscilloscopes! Dude I don't know which choices were the ones that lead you to this point in your youtube carreer but they were the right ones!!!
if you live in an old house measuring tape > spirit level. If the the room isn't level then anything you mount with a level will look crooked. Its better to measure down from the nearest visual clue like a ceiling or side of a wall twice and connect the dots
"Metal Repair Glue" - Glue is always the strongest in shear, not in peel 11:38 Da hätte ich nach Bauchgefühl ne andere Übersetzung gewählt. Bolt & Nut = Schraube & Mutter. Socket = Nuss (Socketwrench). Ist aber auch leicht gesagt, wenn man nur Zuschauer ist und sich den Text zum Video nicht selbst aus den Fingern saugen muss.
For hard core epoxy, my go to is "JB Weld"... it can be sanded, drilled and painted and holds up extremely well for an epoxy... epoxy is never going to match a welded joint...
Hi GreatScott, I also use the UHU if I would like to flow the glue while curing. I also bake it 100ºC at 10min, so it gets even stronger . For things that the glue should stay in place or for higher temperatures I use JB-Weld (you can get it at 'Reichelt'). Liebe Grüsse Benno
2:50 This description should be interpreted as a ‘substitute for welding’, not that it should be used in the same way. Adhesive requires surface contact on both sides, the more the better.
The logic behind some Aliexpress descriptions is more than questionable.
True.....
When translated to English "welding" has also meant "soldering" or "brazing" on products I've bought.
@@dancooperish That hurts on so many levels. 😵💫
To be fair to Ali, quite a few North American brand glues use the word "weld" in either their name or description. "Weldbond" and "JB Weld" comes to mind...
since this is part 11, can we do a compiled video of 10 parts showing only thums up products. that will be very usefull since every good thing will be in one place and can be done every 10 parts
Hmmmmm
Also long term reviews. Do the products still hold up?
Wont work as other stuff is outdated within a month
@@eugeneputin1858 i dont think everything gets outdated.
Hey i'm finding some of the thumb down products rather attractive because my use case may be different enough to where they may be just what's called for. Though of course there are some absolute hopeless ones, but then, it's still good to know so one doesn't accidentally buy them :D
You only applied glue on the surface around the joint, not on the area of contact which probably made the joint much weaker
Exactly like AliExpress shows how to do
isnt welding in the same fashion?
@@SsoulBladewith welding you can't work with the contact surface of course but with this you can
@@SsoulBlade You make chamfer to increase surface area when welding.
While true, it's still not going to be a great bond for that kind of application.
the touch sensor is useful for switching things in waterproof housings...what is the idle current draw though?
Capacitive touch sensors tend not to work quite as well when run off battery. I'm guessing it is a static charge issue. The Ic is probably something like AT42QT1012. Because it is cheap and does barely enough. The power draw is listed as being exceptionally low. ~50 microwatts 1.8v to 5v. Could be a nice way to wake up a project in a glass tupperware. I am curious what current it actually draws with all the other parts.
@@badmood88 The more common reason for capacitive touch sensors being iffy on battery power is that they tend to be very sensitive to input voltage & noise, and most battery power setups either have significant droop as the battery discharges or significant electrical noise from overly cost-optimised switching-mode power supplies.
@@TheLoneWolfling Switch mode power supplies can be bad, regardless of AC/DC.
I expected to see a circuit like in an RFID card?
@@nimoy007 Agreed. Overly cost-optimized SMPSes can be rather terrible in general. Overly cost-optimized battery-operated SMPSes tend to be worse. (My guess here is due to testing at only one or two voltages combined with a relatively wide input voltage range, and significant source impedance as voltage drops.)
Glue and paint, makes you the welder you ain't 😂
True ;-)
@@greatscottlab Btw Both surfaces should be degreased and made more rough with sanding paper before applying glue - not sure you did that......but still glue can never beat welding...
That glue is basically Chinese JB Weld, which is not bad but still no substitute for a proper weld.
@@great__success This. Good surface preparation will make the difference between a very strong bond and one that falls off of slightly tapped with a hammer.
So close. The saying is "a grinder and paint makes you the welder you aint
With the torque wrench, use caution and follow best practices. The beeping kind can easily overtorque something compared to the click-type. Also, you cannot accurately check the torque of a bolt that is already torqued down because of static friction (or stiction). So I'd say it's great for your application where torque isn't critical, but if you start getting into areas like automotive, where torque can really start to matter, do your research. There's a great youtube channel that properly tests torque wrenches and torque myths.
Snap-on digital torque wrench was the best I used while working as a bus mechanic. The LED indicators showing you how close you are to the set torque value is brilliant for creeping up on the right number. Every other kind of torque wrench I've used didn't come close to the snap-on one.
so I have used that same UHU epoxy and that stuff is amazing. It is strong, it hardens in a day, it sticks to basically anything except polypropylene and teflon (expected)
But it doesn't fully cure unless you bake it at 200C
If you bake it for 5-10 minutes at 200C it'll be MUCH stronger than at room temperature and it'll cure faster of course
UHU has a curing chart with temperature, time and strength on it
Thanks for sharing :-)
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but does it say to do that in the instructions?
@@f.avilla6383 not exactly
There is a chart with curing temperature, time and strength on the back of the package and online also
It's easy to miss if you don't exactly read every bit of information about something as simple to as glue
I am not sure if the instructions themselves say anything about it
@@Cjarka_ cool. thanks. i usually just use JB weld/Quick Steel for minor repairs. at work i had to use expensive epoxy for manufacturing applications, and i wanted to make the process faster (it took 8 hrs to dry) and asked if i could heat it up, and they said no, due to risk of fire or unknown issues when heat is applied to that epoxy. it might effect the chemistry or durability, etc.
The laser level still looks kind of nice to me. I've been in a situation where I just wanted to align things along a line that isn't level to the ground, and with this, you can also see the exact angle that you're aiming towards, at the same time.
Yes, things like railings, stair lights, rough heights on center etc.
I need to do a fence some time soon... A cheap laser line will be very helpful for putting in the posts. It's just a farm fence so doesn't need to be perfect, but lining them up along the property boundary will be easier with a laser than string.
Be careful though, I have the same laser "level" and my experience matches with Scott : the readings are inaccurate.
If you put it on a flat surface, it reads one value one way, and a different value when you flip it 180°...
It's fine if you don"t need to be super accurate (within 1°, I'd say), but useless otherwise
Those cheap lasers can be quite difficult to see in daylight. For outside work you probably want one of those rotating laser levels. (but they are rather expensive) 😮@@tin2001
Just know, you can lock the laser line on the "known brand" laser levels so they do this, and do no autolevel..
3:46 Don't we all love Chenglish? XD
It certainly is entertaining :-)
Will never forget when looking for a spindle motor for a CNC project, I came across a "100w violence" motor.
We call it Chinglish in Australia...
And don't get it confused with Engrish... The Japanese version.
The comedic value of Chinglish is often worth more than the price of the product. Nothing like a good belly aching laugh, even when the purchase turns out to be a total fail. Unfortunately, AI is slowly replacing it.
ah yes, making fun of people not quite fluent in a language
you're all great people, and most definitely not racist /s
"Bada bing bada boom!" Sonny Corleone was reincarnated as a German electronics content creator, who knew?
;-)
Yes! Hearing that phrase rendered through a German accent was awesome.
I am guessing that he was more influenced by Korben than Corleone.
@@greatscottlab German? but why do you then say you are Scottish?
@@greatscottlab answer that last mans question from this thread, we wanna know! ;)
By far the strongest "metal glue" is JB weld original. It's very slow but very strong.
Is it really stronger than UHU 300?
There's a trick that is recommended by UHU but generally works with other epoxies as well. If you raise the curing temperature to around 60-70°C, you can double the ultimate strength, plus it cures quicker.
I don't think the way he connected those two metal pieces JB weld would made much of a difference. When there is surface area it can get between the bond is incredibly strong, but the way he did it.
JB Weld is pretty serious stuff. th-cam.com/video/587RuL45jS8/w-d-xo.html
I know a guy who worked for an old farmer that used to repair cracked tractor blocks with original jb weld. Probably only worked for coolant cracks. I doubt seriously that it would hold against any compression, especially diesel but that's still pretty impressive.
Watch the epoxy video of project farm here on TH-cam. It's incredible strong compared to other epoxys. He also explains the reason is the very slow curing time. All the semi transparent epoxys (mostly German made) are way weaker due to my experience. @@SianaGearz
6:00 - be careful. The limiting factor for most MOSFETs is _not_ the rated current per se - it's the junction temperature. Those max currents are usually essentially "note that even if you somehow keep the junction temperature within limits, you _still_ shouldn't switch more than this current lest you potentially get local hotspots & thermal runaway".
Unfortunately, calculating if this is in spec for the FET is nontrivial for a PWM device, as it depends on the switching waveform.
That metal repair glue looks similar to JB Weld in the US.
I heard of that before......it is possible that both do around the same.
@@greatscottlab Based on the colors I wouldn't be surprised if this is basically knockoff JB Weld from materials that didn't meet spec.
Bought it here in the Benelux via Amazon. A lamppost in cast iron fell down during a storm and 1 arm broke. That was about 10 years ago. I used JB Weld and it has held up perfectly outside all this time. Nearly forgot that I did this. It was kind of expensive but certainly worth it.
@@superslash7254 need to smell it to know for sure lol. JB weld is a very distinct odor.
Yes, this appears to be a generic version of JB Weld. While it's definitely not a replacement for real welding, I will say that JB Weld is an excellent product that will work in many cases where normal epoxies simply don't and it's surprisingly good with most plastics as well as metal.
It's good stuff, but I would gladly pay more for the real thing in this case as I use JB Weld in more critical applications than a normal expoxy like Gorilla; I don't want cheap epoxy in these situations. He doesn't test any generic JB Weld options, but Project Farm has one or more videos testing glues and epoxies and I recommend watching those.
By coincidence, I tried to do a job with the 'laser thingy' this morning and I have to concur, for the price the build quality and amount of functionality is stunning. But it is not very practical or accurate, and I quickly reverted to a simple spirit level!
Thanks for sharing
@@greatscottlabI got a laser level like the one you had for like 10 bucks on Ali. From a brand called Hilti or something like that. I mount it on a camera tripod and it seems to work quite well.
There are auto-levelers that are much cheaper than the mentioned Bosch. I've been using a 'noname' Tacklife one I bought a few years back for less than €30, and I haven't had a badly leveled thing in my house ever since.
Exact same experience here, it's not accurate at all
If I remember correctly (bought it quite a while ago), when I took it apart, the electronic was accurate on its own, but as soon as you assemble it, it's off by a degree or so.
I think the circuit board sits crooked in the housing or something like that....
00:43 mandatory smile (tm) this one was very strong and quick!
As someone who works with SMD components, the solder tweezers are really useful to me.
Thanks for the feedback :-)
2:28 You forgot the ramen noodles, so it didn't last.
Please note lifetime warranty doesn't mean for your lifetime it means for the expected lifetime of the product so would probably be 7 to 10 years, read the legalize that came with it to see what "lifetime" actually means.
Nope. On their website they state, that you can _always_ exchange the product as long as it doesn't have damages from being used incorrectly or you had it repaired by a third party. But it only counts for business partners (and I guess Scott is self-employed so he's able to make use of the promise).
Each manufacturer is allowed to define what "lifetime" means.
Before they thankfully went bankrupt, Briggs and Stratton removed the ability to change the oil or filter in their lawnmowers, announcing "lifetime oil, never needs changing."
In the small print, "lifetime" was defined as "two seasons."
So, their lawnmowers would last two years without an oil change. Exactly the same as any lawnmower.
Lifetime for a tool should be multiple generations
Top tip: an incredible glue is any cheap super glue combined with baking soda. Strong as a rock, dries instantly, you can sand and drill it easily.
Make the hole in the flange big enough for the pipe, push the pipe through and weld it on the outer side. It will leak just as much, but the hideous crappy weld will be hidden.
The trick with welding is to melt the base material while adding more. Look at the molten pool, not at the arc.
You definitely over-torqued some of your bolts there. And for few of them the beeping was telling you that the 14nm was already reached....but was it at 45?
The th t
Would've loved to see you connect both torque wrenches together to see how much they compare :) Maybe nice for a short.
Oh boy....
Glue has strong strengths (sheer strength) and weak weaknesses (tensile strength). The way you applied the glue didn't play to it's strengths...
But this was an enjoyable and useful video, so thumbs up and I hope you make many more in this series going forward!
we have those desoldering tweezers at my job and they are the perfect tool when debugging dead components on a board that is mounted inside an enclosure. They heat up really fast and when the handle is tightened properly they can be precise enough for all small smd components with 2 or 4 pads (I sometimes use them on small ICs too, just need extra solder). Also out of all the soldering irons we have this one is among the oldest but somehow its tips still look brand new. It's a great tool that does the job very quickly, very valuable.
I actually hate these kind of desoldering tips. If you don't handle them correctly they get bend and if you don't clean them propably the solder doesn't stick to them anymore.. some colleagues do that to them sometimes..
However I also used them brand new, and also hated them. (And they were some of the known big brands). + the tips are expensive.
I just use two soldering irons 😅, works way better.
There are auto leveling pendulum laser devices similar to the Bosch you have on Ali. I recently got one branded "Hilda" for around 15 euro and it works in the same way. The Bosch will be way better quality for sure, but for casual usage this Chinese one works pretty good!
Great video, as usual! thanks :)
I like how casually you promote the HD304MSO as if it's like a hobbyist gadget, that thing cost as much as an entry level Mercedes :P
You can get a Mercedes for $9,000?
Is Mercedes making electric bicycles now?
@@bluedistortions Mouser sells a HD404MSO for 21K (not that 9K is cheap even for an oscilloscope especially for a non "high end" professional so I can't see your point on top of that you can find 2nd hand Mercedes cars at that price too lol)
Instead of getting the torque wrench may be nicer to use your higher quality wrenches and torque adapter. Torque test channel test few of them recently
I'm really pleased with my digital torque adapter. I tested it against my larger torque wrenches. It's been a few years and it still measures accurately, so I gave away the big clickers so I could downsize my toolbox.
9:09 I really wish ugreen and the like would make 240W usb-c chargers already
Yes....I would love to see that and use that :-)
Why? You need to own a device that draws 240W to make use of it.
@backgammonbacon So true! Most smartphones will only draw up to 18W or 25W from the charger, even if the charger can deliver more power. It is the device that decides the amount of power it will draw. Maybe some specific devices will require 65W or above, just like some notebooks that are powered via USB-C.
Best you see is sub 150w. If you want a reasonable 125w the Motorola ones are pretty cheap and definitely will do 125w. @@Fernando_S
I soldered 8 hours a day for 4 years and think hot tweezers are pretty dumb. High quality tweezers for less than $5 and hot air station for $45 work good for anything you need. Other than that, a good hot plate and $105 dollar hakko are literally the only tools I Will use. Other than that I did have a $900 hakko solder sucker, that was worth the money.
Really enjoy this series - keep them coming 👍
Will do :-) Hope to do one more this year.
A nice thing about the touch sensor switch is that you can use it to activate a relay. The right relay can power just about anything, at any voltage or current level you want. It doesn't have to be used with low voltage or low power.
I really like all of your videos, but I don't understand why Keysight is sponsoring all of my favorite youtubers with their latest oscilloscope. Very few of your general audience will ever be able to afford this behemoth of an instrument - neither will they have a use for even 10% of its functions...
I bought my red cross laser thingy from Lidl for a fraction of what you have paid for your green one. It came without tripod but with a standard screw mount compatible with any photographic tripod. It is self-leveling with some free swinging laser mount inside.
I've found the inline USB meters helpful on the go for troubleshooting charging issues with loose connections and worn cables.
The instant-on display provides better feedback when wiggling stuff to find a loose connection, current shows the approximate state of charge on things that don't have a display and voltage tells you if the setup is quickcharging properly when you're in a hurry.
If you're trying to join materials with any type of glue or adhesives, it's really helpful to rough up the surface with some abrasive materials first. Just like anything else glue needs some texture to grab on to.
Thanks!
Was kinda hoping you would step it up to 10 items per episode after ep10. I love finding hidden gems on Ali myself and these videos are great to watch. You really put some work into them, thanks!
12:55 Ghibli? You're raising your kids right! ˙ᵕ˙
If you want to join those metal parts without welding cut the hole in the base 0.5mm smaller than the pipe. Heat the base part to expand and cool the pipe to contract, then bring them together. It's how they used to make bike frames.👍
For removing discrete components with an iron, I use a chisel tip that is as wide as the component is long. If you attack it from the side you can heat up both ends at the same time and the component will stick to the melted solder on the end of the iron. Remove the old part from the iron tip with tweezers.
I have probably a dozen of those touch sensors in my electrical junk. We had a local custom home builder that loves accent lighting but doesn’t like quality parts, so i have been removing them and replacing the lights with better quality contact switches and better lights.
Btw, torque wrenches are a tool you don’t want to go cheap with. It might work at first but if you set it down too hard or drop it, you’ll never get the same readings again. My torque wrenches are calibrated every year, something you can’t do with cheap ones.
Someone actually tested it, was it Project Farm or Torque Test channel... it apparently takes an extraordinary amount of cruelty to actually upset them, and the warning is an abundance of precaution as well as manufacturers covering their arse. Also electronic torque wrench doesn't really work on the same principle, and have rather different flaws, but given it's made by Shahe, i'd expect it to work just fine if used as intended, their tools aren't made to compete with upmarket ones but you're not exactly scraping the very bottom of the barrel either.
1:50 I really like that stuff, had some laying around in the attic, probably from my grandpa and 25+ years old and it still worked.
8:00 I personally have the same opinion that tweezers mostly aren't worth it. I really like wave/hollow/flow tips. They are just like the bevel type, but concaved. With the tip you can access tricky spots with good thermal throughput, and with the small 'bath' of solder, you can reach over 0603 components with ease. Also, if you empty your 'bath', it wants to suck solder back. So you can remove solder without extra tools. This is especially useful when soldering large IC's, by simply brushing over the pins. Use enough flux and each pin gets a perfect solder bond.
I love this series. I just recently got some of those add-on usb-c wattage displays, too. Looking forward to the next installment in the series!
Love this format😊
Thanks :-) I like it too. Gives me a bit of a break from "hardcore" electronics stuff.
as a non electronic enthusiast i still found your videos addictive great work young fellow
2:55 you needed to put the metal weld glue down, then stick them together sandwiching the glue in-between. Then putting it around like you did will help some
It's 焊必杰 Chinese JB weld
I actually bought the USB C cable with the built in display on it because of you vid a long time ago! Still works, and is still my favorite cable. Use it every day. Love these vids, I hope they keep coming!
With the torque wrench, if you go into the set-up mode, you have a setting to turn on a backlight whilst you are torquing your required item - great videos, thank you very much for all your hard work - please keep them coming!
I recently got a tiny range finder that looks exactly like that laser level. I thought that's what you were reviewing from the thumbnail!
In any case, I've been quite happy with it for measuring rooms, furniture, etc.
Thanks again for all the wonderful showing of goodies! I got a reviewed hotplate for repairing a friend's game cartridge, and I couldn't believe how easy it was. I wouldn't have committed to one without your video!
Actually this is the best series on TH-cam to learn about devices.
This is one of my favorite series on the internet. Can you make these every two weeks, please? ;-) Thanks!!!
Pro tip: Take that torque wrench and add grease to the head. The front plate is held on with two screws on the back, you remove those screws and remove the anvil so you can add grease to it. SuperLube seems to be a decent choice. It'll make your ratchet feel all new :D
For good quality "structural adhesive", I can highly recommend 3M Scotch-Weld.
I had some aluminum parts (T slot channel and some panels) that I needed bonding without fasteners. After some rough sanding with 80 grit to remove the anodized layer I bonded all the parts. The results were exceptionally good.
There are 240w power Display inserts that will also allow 40 Gbps through them. They are nice. I bought a pair, but they are limited to 140w / 28V, but they don’t hamper my USB4 SSD enclosure, and they also allow me to measure the power draw and the voltage on the V+ line
So what's the power draw the USB enclosure?
@@enihi it is a Maiwo, and uses an ASM2464PD chip, which apparently has a high draw. Around 8 watts active, 3 watts when inactive. A little less when connected at USB4 20 Gbps. Much less when connected at 10 Gbps, just 3 watts active and 1 watt inactive.
10:16 I like it how the thumbs up youtube button lights up when you pronounce "I can give it thumbs up". Gentle nudge or reminder haha:)
Thank you this series scratches a gadget itch we all have like no other. keep it up! (pretty please). From Britanny with love!
Awesome video. May I request you do a review on high capacity usb c LIION rechargeable AAA and AA batterries for your next one please?
Have seen these new type being introduced on ALI Express and I am usually very careful when using anything using Li ion batteries. Thanks for your awesome channel. Keep it up.
I really enjoy this series and have bought several of the items featured. Thanks!
I got a Worx electric screwdriver on the site. I've used a few in my time, but this one really is a nice bit of kit. It's not much bigger than a normal screwdriver but has the torque of what used to be a heavy drill sized thing. It comes in a handy plastic case as well where you can take a case to your work and you have every bit you need. For a piece of industrial design, I'll give it 10/10. Well done China!
12:54 Totoro!
Keep the videos coming. Never get tired of the new products review.
just went through the whole playlist and bought a few things! Thank you for this...
😂 the bad part is that I hardly need encouragement
Almost 2 million subs!! Congrats!! 🎉🎉🎉🎉
I love this series, there's some hidden gems out there for sure.
Glue is never a proper substitute for welding, but Chinese epoxy was really useful for an issue I had. A towing company broke the plastic turn-signal in my car. 5 minutes and 10 cents worth of glue fixed it real good and probably saved me a fortune.
The de-soldering device looks interesting, but I came across a suggestion online some time ago. Just use two soldering irons. I have a second backup soldering iron anyway, but even a cheap iron would be okay for this. Works for me. As GreatScott suggests, I also have a hot plate, a vacuum de-soldering pump, and a hot air gun, as there really isn't a 'one-size-fits-all' de-soldering solution.
Try ABRO Epoxy Steel Adhesive 4-Minute Kwik-Set. I've used it in all kinds of repairs. I believe in it. It's also a fraction of the price of your UHU plus. Remember, the key to a strong bond with these epoxy adhesives is to roughen the two surfaces with something like a hacksaw or rough file and apply on both sides. Cheers ✊
Love this series!
It gets me thinking about what projects I'd use most of this stuff for
I rarely buy anything but I might get the USB C watt meter (to complement my better one that shows current draw and voltage, but which is much larger)
A bit weary on that wireless switch though...
Every auto parts store in the US has JB Weld(steel reinforced 2 part epoxy) and the small 2 oz container is about $6 or 7. The convenience and cost makes it hard to want to spend $3.5 + shipping on the Chinese 2 part. Love this series!
3:45 I'm also using souch a touch sensor for my desk LED strip. Works like a charm.
PLEASE continue this series I am excited to watch all the videos you plan on uploading:)
Beware that JBC tweezers require a dedicated soldering station (or a combo station that has both normal and tweezers output), so buying just the tweezers in your case wouldn't be enough. That being said, we have the dedicated station at my work and it performs well, as expected from JBC.
That laser level looks way too cool to just be a level
IKR? I bought it even if he said it was bad. Got it, and it's not bad, but you need to be aware that there's a rubber gasket around the USB charging input, so that makes it tilt, so just remove that. And yeah, the thing is totally awesome, love the futuristic looks.
The hot tweezer station looks good to recap some horrendous SMD electrolytic caps without stressing the board or the other components too much.
That epoxy seems surprisingly good, if you don't expect miracles out of it. I mean UHU makes its own metal epoxy, it's also a little thicker and heavier.
My favorite youtube series....👍👍
@6:55 I've been looking forward to buying that hot tweezers on AliExpress, it's been on my wishlist for ages now, so glad to finally see a review about it.
Torque wrench, expensive, bulky and analog does the job just fine for cheaper.
Very helpful. Thanks! Please keep reviewing such products.
Awesome! Thanks a bunch for all the tips, dude! 😃
I'm definitely getting the glue!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Have fun!
Another great Hidden Gem video. Looking forward to the next one 👍
PD3.1 is going to ONLY be useful for things like laptops(who struggle to sip little enough power to go under 100w as the standard is 20v and 5a is not enough at 20v)
it might be OK for things like large displays or projectors, but literally no small devices will use >20v as 100W is almost NEVER needed
I would love to have a pinecil that uses 48v 5a
the current implementation is limited to ~20v 5a or less due to tip resistance, which granted is often around 60-80w for a tiny tip, but having a mega tip on my pinecil(mega version, big hands and big joints friendly) that can sip 240W in bursts would be so useful
beyond that 48v is tough to even justify, most buck regulators tend to get more expensive once you cross the 30v threshold(something to do with power supply safety testing I suspect)
get yourself a 100w PD3.0 powerbank and be happy until most laptops ditch non-standard plugs and go 240w PD
You left "gaming" off that description... Traditional laptop power supplies were always 18.5-19.5V at 3-3.5A (60-65W). Many laptops now come with lower output power supplies.
Agree on the laser spirit level. The display with 0.1 degree resolution already puts the best possible accuracy at 2mm/m.
Thanks for the video. The no touch, wood penetrating switch sensor seems pretty cool.
I am not certain why you gave the level an "inaccurate" rating... if it matches the Spirit Level, it would just be accurate, but too "cumbersome".
Welding melts the surface, and allows the two metals to join together, if you only add glue to the "edge", but not the bottom contact faces, it won't do anywhere near as well as it could have. I doubt it will ever be as good as the weld, but, if you don't apply it properly it won't work anywhere near as well either. Please consider repeating the glue test by adding glue to the mating surface as well.
The level might be more useful for angular measurements. There is where the pendulum laser is unusable. Building a roof with windows and other things I know this from first hand experience.
Otherwise thank you. Useful information as usual.
Not sure if it's common with brands in Germany, but "lifetime warranties" are fairly common with U.S. tool brands. This doesn't always indicate the highest quality, however, as it mainly means that the brand sees an acceptable number of warranty claims that help to market the brand with substantially impacting its finances; buyers like lifetime warranties and will thus prefer brands that offer them.
Even still, very cheap brands may not be able to afford such warranties as their claim rates may wipe out their profits. Tools with lifetime warranties thus tend to be of decent quality. Warranties are not really about quality, but about their marketing benefits versus the cost of claims.
„Lifetime Warranties” are not common in Germany and probably rest of Europe because it’s not Very clear for the buyer how long a “Lifetime” is it really. It’s mostly self defined for every product and doesn’t match with the exception of the buyer. So it’s misleading and that’s not allowed in Germany.
It's limited 😊
IMPORTANT Info on the torque wrench: you have to take care of how you apply force to it. You can easily get FALSE readings if you are "holding it wrong™".
It is, essentially, just a standard ratchet, with a load cell glued to the shaft somewhere under the electronics case. Unlike the high-end (and expensive) electronic torque wrenches, which have the sensor placed in a way to minimise measurement error, this wrench simply measures the deflection of the wrench shaft. Of course, you can easily cause deflection of the shaft by trying to bend the wrench. I can easily get it to show a couple of Nm by simply bending it, without anything being attached to the square drive. Accordingly, you can cause false readings in use by gripping the handle too tight or holding the ratchet by the head.
If you take a look at the calibration sheet, it mentions something about measuring with the centre notch. On the handle, there is a notch in the middle of the handle: this is where you need to apply pressure to have it read right. I just hook 3 fingers around it, with the middle finger on the notch, and pull (without gripping the handle).
To conclude, it is ONLY accurate if you use it correctly. Fair enough, IMHO, for the price you shouldn't expect more. However, I wouldn't recommend it. I got it to complement or replace my mechanical torque wrench, and must say that it's rather cumbersome to use, the control interface is confusing and not intuitive, and the display is difficult to read under some conditions. Setting the mechanical wrench to desired torque and it's mechanical feedback are much easier to use.
This series is something that I really wanted but didn't know. I wonder if there are trustworthy channels like yours doing the same thing but on other categories (garden, home, etc.)
Try “Project Farm” - he covers a variety of things.
I remove 2 pin SMD components exrremely quickly, with just a normal fine soldering iron tip.
Put a blob of solder on the iron tip with the iron horizontal so the blob kind of hangs from the side of the tip, then touch the blob across the entire component.
The component will instantly de-solder from the PCB and be stuck to the blob, so immediately after that, tap the iron on the table etc and the blob and component will pop off the tip and be on the table.
It sounds rough, but I can remove components in about a second each and yes they are ok to re-use because they were only hot for a second.
the knife blade-type tips are especially great for that :)
> tap the iron on the table
there's a risk of damaging the expensive ceramic heating element. It's better to just wipe the tip with a napkin
@@ewfreg5nythyhtewt4w I like the tap, I have a flat glass plate I use for SMD work, and the tap is very fast for getting the blob off the tip and also the "splat" when it hits the glass often separates the component from the solder blob. It only takes a tiny amount of force. I've been using that method since the late 90's. 🙂
the best is to have two irons, same type, with a little bit of practice it's damn fast.
Instructions unclear, I am stuck with 2 electrolityc capacitors to desolder. Help?
It only doesn't work for LEDs very well.
And particularly it doesn't work for large SMD electrolytic capacitors and other large and tall two-pad components very well at all! Which is why i have been considering hot tweezers myself.
that touch sensor is SOOOO dope. i can think of so many projects id make with that
6:20 you can apply a lot of solder around the 2-pin component to remove it from PCB.
2:09 oh no 😰
About metal glue. The company Belzona offers great products. The products are certified for the oil and gas industry. No false promises.
On these digital torquemeters you have to place your hand in the middle of the handle to get accurate results. This is because they rely on the bending torque in the area under the display which is influenced by where the force is applied.
For the laser and the USB, I clicked on the link and was rewaed with astonishing low price. Then I signed in and suddenly the laser price was multiply buy 2 and the USB C was not available. I went to Banggood and the price of the laser was €2 more. So I ordered from them to give the 2 fingers (UK style) to Aliexpress!
If I ever start a TH-cam channel I want my sponsors to be oscilloscopes! Dude I don't know which choices were the ones that lead you to this point in your youtube carreer but they were the right ones!!!
if you live in an old house measuring tape > spirit level. If the the room isn't level then anything you mount with a level will look crooked. Its better to measure down from the nearest visual clue like a ceiling or side of a wall twice and connect the dots
"Metal Repair Glue" - Glue is always the strongest in shear, not in peel
11:38 Da hätte ich nach Bauchgefühl ne andere Übersetzung gewählt. Bolt & Nut = Schraube & Mutter. Socket = Nuss (Socketwrench). Ist aber auch leicht gesagt, wenn man nur Zuschauer ist und sich den Text zum Video nicht selbst aus den Fingern saugen muss.
For hard core epoxy, my go to is "JB Weld"... it can be sanded, drilled and painted and holds up extremely well for an epoxy... epoxy is never going to match a welded joint...
Heck yea! Back again with another!! Excited!
Hi GreatScott,
I also use the UHU if I would like to flow the glue while curing. I also bake it 100ºC at 10min, so it gets even stronger . For things that the glue should stay in place or for higher temperatures I use JB-Weld (you can get it at 'Reichelt'). Liebe Grüsse Benno