Please, for the love of everything that is holy, do not run that dollar oil filter. They are garbage paper that can clog and destroy your engine. Also, use a line wrench for the brake lines, and righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. ;)
Please get a real oil filter, a Mobile One M1-213 is correct for the car, or get a m1-213a (Ford 2021) since it’s rated for more miles, just don’t run that garbage filter. It makes fram filters look good. Edit: Updated the mobil number thanks to Brandon pointing out I pulled the part number on an old v8 vantage not the jag engine Sam has.
You're correct but theres no point buying top shelf parts if he doesnt even know if the cars going to be driveable. Ie: the transmission might also be junk, or the rear end, or it might overheat after it runs for a while. Idk
@@getchasome6230 you can order the part for $10, its very critical as it’s your oiling system. When I had a shop I had people argue against using high quality oil for first startup as it’s common to change in the first 10 minutes. First start is a engines most vulnerable time, shouldn’t that call for the best protection you can give it? You just invested thousands on a engine and worry about $60 of oil. Your lubrication system is never the thing to go cheap on.
Subscribed today. My dad was famous for having his pickup, tractor, lawn mowers, or horse fences and gates “fixed for cheapest price”. He’s use electric wire to hold a fence post up and horses would walk out of the still “rigged” repairs and make their way on the highway at 3 A.M. when he was miles away and I’d have to answer the call from the police or a neighbor that his horses where on the road and needed to be rounded up. He had chickens and goats that did the same thing! I enjoy your projects. Please keep them coming.
Oil filters (and oil) are the one thing you don’t want to cheap out on, at least not on unbranded stuff. Oil filters are more than just what the outside looks like
Free clutch tip: Sometimes a deep 1/2 inch drive socket will fit the pilot bearing while being too small for clutch plate. Carefully wrap electrical tape evenly round the socket to take up the slack. You'll end up with a tool that snugly stays in the clutch plate and slips nicely in the pilot bearing 😉
The rooster saw me eating a chicken dinner and threatened me; it's why I had to re-upload. I'm thinking of having seconds now, but I don't have any leftovers 😒
Hey Sam, if you keep that airlift setup on it. I recommend getting on airlift's website and getting the instructions. You don't want to drive it with over/under inflated bags.
A thousand props for finding Kentucky Clutch. We live in a throwaway society, and I have tons of respect for shops that rebuild auto parts like alternators, starters, trannys, and now clutches.
Not sure I'd go with a $1.10 oil filter that is labeled "Original Engine MANAGEMENT" (a Chinese play on OEM?). Especially considering it is called out/cross referenced for the XJ8 only and not the Vantage (the AJ-V8 in the Vantage calls for 10w60 while the XJ8 is 5w30). Going with a cheap oil filter that is manufactured to have similar pressure-flow characteristics, filtration efficiency, and filter bypass pressure would be preferred but good luck figuring that out for the Vantage OE oil filter. I probably would have chosen a Wix or Mann filter for $6-15 instead.
Is RockAuto known for selling bad parts? I've bought counterfeit parts from eBay and Amazon (never again) but would like to think that RockAuto sells stuff that isn't crap.
@@joephysics5469 Rock Auto is a great retailer. Like any place that stocks a wide array of parts they'll sell the really cheap stuff from China all the way to the actual OEM version of a part. Prices for either end of the range is usually very good and their shipping at least to me is fast even with the cheapest option.
Every time I think “well, Sam surely can’t go anywhere but the dealer now” he finds a new solution. It’s awesome to see you find workarounds for what would otherwise be an endless money pit
When I was younger I had a 02 Lincoln LS V8 had parts from Jaguar Mercedes Lincoln Ford all-in-one motor lots of parts are interchangeable for cheaper fixes
Props to you for sourcing your clutch from an aftermarket company. These guys know clutches and can rebuild anything and everything. I'm glad that shops like this still exist; considering most cars have automatic transmissions these days.
My daughter used to sell parts at an auto part store. I was trying to tell her that some much less expensive parts are identical to really pricey ones. She said she didn't know how to find out how to match up parts like that. All the advice on that even every day cars and trucks is greatly appreciated.
7:17 - the plastic protector that was inside of the new seal at 5:18 is usually an installer sleeve which stays in the new seal and holds the lip in as the seal is installed. You place the sleeve with the seal on it on the rear flange of the crank, then push or drive the seal in, then remove the sleeve after the seal is in the proper depth.
Came here to mention this, don't stretch the teflon rear main seal before fitting it! that is why it is on a sleeve. Should really avoid touching the lip at all.
@@Samcrac yes its flared, its meant to slip over the crank then push the seal onto the crank. discard the plastic and finish driving the seal in. a lot of rear mains match pvc and abs plumbing fittings as installation tools. also rear mains are meant to be installed dry, no oil or it can pop out from crank case pressure.
If it was Teflon (PTFE) then it should have been installed dry - zero oil. The way Teflon works is that it transfers some of itself to the part being sealed effectively making a double seal. Any oil in there will make the PTFE seal fail way too soon. I think this seal was just rubber.
@@Samcrac The protector just slips/pushes onto the end of the crank, then you push/drive the seal itself into the back of the engine. The seal lip slides off of the protector and onto the crankshaft, and the lip ends up staying in the correct position. Then the protector is removed from the end of the crank and is no longer needed.
Contrary to popular belief, the flutes on the drill, assisted by gravity, pull debris away from the internals when drilling horizontally or upwards, and any breakout on the inside doesn't instantly explode inwards either.
@@TonyRule you are correct the flutes remove most of the swarf. The danger lies in the damaging of seal surfaces and over drilling into block and or housings. Using a screw will not generate swarf and also skips a step, making it more efficient. If the screw does contact something after the hole is thru the seal, it will push the seal out as well.
@@uncommonlogic1698 you can see where the drill hit the crankcase behind the seal, you could even hear it hit it. Luckily not a critical face in this instance.
That is not a good way to remove a Real seal. You can damage the crank and the housing. As others stated. Use some sheet metal screws and a slide hammer. Do not screw all the way through . usually 4-6 of them and I can mount a plate with my slide hammer and its take very little force to get them out.
The plastic piece that came with the seal is for installing the seal on the crank. You slip it over the flange with the seal attached and then pull the plastic off. Seal is on and no lip damage. Also, it looks like enough has been said about the cheap ass oil filter. Don't be the typical used car flipper. Take it off and spend another $5 for a good quality one. Gotta love the rooster.
Im in Canada and i bin buying all my parts for my cars from Rock Auto they really ROCK luv em to my door in 3 days price plus shipping and $ convertion way cheaper then here .....Dude NEVER shut up the ROOSTER he is the ROCK of the property...cut him some slack he is just doing his job and beautifully i may add..............Long live the ROOSTER!
Years ago, while replacing the clutch on my T/A LS1 M6, I replaced the rearmain. Installed everything back, go to start, and it GUSHES oil out from the back of the motor. I pull everything again, no lift, and found the oil seeping from behind the flywheel. I had not seated it deep enough, it was flush with the motor. I install everything again, and go to start, and fuck my life, oil everywhere again.... Took it all back apart and didn't stop pounding that fucking rearmain until it was about an 1/8 deep into the motor. Never had a problem with it again. My neck was fucked for days.
Yeah, I take pics of everything as I take it apart so I know what it should look like when the new stuff goes on. And still research like mad online to see others doing it. I knew nothing at all about PTFE seals that needed replacing on my 2004 V6 Passat cams - 4 of them - but learned so much in the process! I am so thankful for videos like even this one!
@@Fearls1, I kinda feel your pain to a lesser extent. As a noob I wrecked my '99 auto Prelude and my friend had a '92 5MT with a blown motor. I pulled my auto motor. No hoist so jacked up on cinder blocks and a dolley under the motor to slide it out. Ripped the blown motor off the 5MT and slid the new one under. Could not get the torque converter off the good motor to replace with a flywheel and clutch. The motor was too heavy to get in the back seat. I ripped off the head and got the block in the can. Drove to the shop and they got the torque converter off and put the new flywheel/clutch on. Get back to the car and get the block out, put the head on and time it. Now to slide it under the car and line up the motor and tranny. NO IDEA WHAT A CLUTCH ALIGNMENT TOOL WAS! For 3 days I was there trying to get this thing to line up and could not figure out what was going on. Pure frustration. Went to the mechanic and explained what was going on and...DO YOU HAVE A CLUTCH ALIGNMENT TOOL? Me:what? Mechanic:Shakes head. I went, got the tool for a few bucks and lined it up 1,2,3.
You'd probably need the John Deere workshop to reset the electronics on their parts before you can use them, tractors aren't anywhere near as repairable as they used to (or should) be.
2:43 An easy way to get out that bearing is to create a hydraulic ram basically, ie fill the centre of the bearing with grease, pack it in there, then get a something that fits perfectly into the centre of the bearing, like a round piece of steel, then put some plastic over it, some shrink wrap, so the the seal is good, place it on the centre of bearing, and hit it with a hammer, it pushes in, compacts the grease creating a hydraulic pressure effect, and out comes the bearing.
Believe it or not, soft bread does an excellent job for this also. It will nearly liquify under pressure and creep around behind the back of the bearing and is so easy to clean up!
May be try this, when you do the rear seal, start it then bolt the flywheel on and use that to push the seal home, take it off and the amount left to go is the thickness of the cardboard shim you make and put on top of the seal and then put the flywheel back on and remove and re-check it, job done.
Weird - I've already watch this - then it disappeared and then re-appeared.... Can't wait to see the resolution to the throw-out bearing issue - as always great content and great work!
yeah, me too. Watched it, went to comment and it was set to private, and now back. Figured that he posted it too soon since we do not normally see them on Saturdays, but now it is back...
Thanks for posting this. Just woke up from what I thought was a 10 hour sleep to see this already watched video was posted 9 hours ago. Thought I was losing it but a repost now makes sense.
When you pull a seal simply run a self taping screw through the seal and then grab the screw with a claw hammer. Throw that stupid seal puller in the scrap bin.
A million thanks for giving Kentucky clutch a shout out, I'm currently about to send out my 1970 Saab 9-6 clutch to them. You just ended a year-long headache of getting this car done.
Crazy seeing Kentucky Clutch plugged on here. They are local to me and have the coolest little shop. They’ve helped me out in a pinch a number of times, and will continue to be my go-to for anything clutch related.
I love how you remove the plastic install tool that keeps the seal from folding over during install. And those oil filters are different. I’m sure it has less filter media in it. But hey, it’s your car
That installation tool it's the good one that allow you to slide seal with easy. I'm not going to comment on oil filter because way to many times i had to explain why there is price difference of different manufacturers, different quality etc.
@@OMGWTFLOLSMH I think he said in a comment on one of his other videos that it had something to do with the fact that this area is a stable on his property and that was the reason he did not want to put a lift in. I know he mostly has cars in there but it could affect the value of the property if he one day decides to sell the place and the potential buyers see a hydraulic lift in the front of the stable. This is just my guess (hopefully educated).
Great to see Sam getting his hands dirty again, and hopefully we see this car get restored back to good working shape with some of those aftermarket mods that are on there now.
Paddle clutch will make the car horrid to drive in traffic, also the extra vibration will take the comfort away from Aston style. For ultimate power and performance 👍 however them Aston engine and transmission mounts cost a fortune and will not last long with uprated clutch.
Hi Sam.....good video, keep up the good work. As to installing the rear main, a person can use a clean block of wood that would span across the outside diameter of the crank which gives a soft but firm pressure to gently push in the seal and then work your way around the seal. Using the old obviously works well also.
Having looked at a few of your vids, it's abundantly clear that you have experience with repairs that ordinary wrench wielders never get. I'm not sure ordinary professional mechanics can do what you do😅.
didnt realize the left hydraulic thow out line fitting was left handed threads....unless......you turned it the wrong direction? please verify this. love the work you do with these cars. keep it up
Samcrac, thanks for all your great projects. You have shown that you don't have to spend a lot to fix or upgrade your car. Plus that you can do it on your own by investigating tips online like here. Big Fan and love exotic cars series. I am in Canada so can't get the deals you offer, but you have taught me how to dig deep to get deals!
It helps to turn the tool counter-clockwise to remove fittings. You turned clockwise and snapped it off because you were tightening it. It probably wouldn't have broke if you didn't use adjustable wrenches for all the work. Keep those away from cars and on plumbing work only.
Very very good Sam!!! It’s unbelievable what that kind of brands are charge us for a simple part! A clutch for 2800 bucks………a bleedniple for 115 bucks??? What the f…! You can’t explaine that to a client, I always want to help a client and you can’t do that with this insane prices , keep on with this work, I love you’re videos! Greetz from the Netherlands , ramon
@@cosmicHalArizona Great Britain is an island, The correct name of the country is The United Kingdom, which includes England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland.
Aston Martin owners aren't renowned for common sense or knowledge - otherwise they'd just buy a Ford Fusion. Fwiw I used to wind up a cow-orker regularly by asking how well his Ford Fusion (Jaguar) was driving today...
I had an Aston Martin DB9 Volante. It's practically theft what their dealers try and get away with. It had a small leak from the lower radiator hose. The dealership quoted $2,500 (claiming an enormous amount of labor; remove the radiator, drain the system, etc.). I brought it to my local mechanic - Morans Auto Repair in Floral Park , NY - who fixed it for $70. The dealer quoted $575 for an oil change. Morans did it for $125.
I always used other oil filters. I only checked the threads as lots of rubber seals on filters have a common size. Never blew an engine or prematurely wore one out.
But should normally reverse the wrench. The moving part should take the force near the base and not near the tip. That is how it's strongest and has the least play.
Sam once again your doing brilliant shade tree work. Thank you so much for the Kentucky Clutch source. Here in Austin when we need hydraulic lines and parts we run down the street from Jessie James speed shop where there is an excellent company that deals in all things hydraulic. If they don’t have it or a quality sub at pennies on the dollar vs OEM you don’t need it. There has to be a place in your area that deals in hydraulic specialty. Look in Brandon they like to be close to heavy equipment and farm equipment. Good luck and we’ll done. The Cuban 57 chev community would be impressed and they weave fan belts out of banana leaves!!!
it's about right, assuming they are not stretch bolts. A lot of modern engines use stretch bolts on the flywheel, so they are something like 36ftlb and then 90 degrees rotation beyond that. This stretches the bolt, so you can only use them once. On on stretch bolts, 75 ft lb is about right for a 12mm bolt.
My son can't understand why I don't want to buy an Aston. Maybe I should make him watch this series of videos and say "see, this is why, right here!" Thanks for sharing. From UK.
They are actually very reliable cars. If you can work on them yourself and source generic parts, they’re very reasonable cars to own. I put a supercharger on mine. Crazy expensive mod, but boy was that fun!!!
love it. I have a 1994 Maserati Ghibli II in rural Australia - hard to impossible to get 'factory' spares but if you can find the Ford, BMW or Fiat equivalent, good to go!
Can you just paint the rims Silver or Black? And cover the air suspension tank with a classy cover, that reduces the look and noise, without overheating the pump? Rest of interior makes it unique, even if boarding line cheesy. 🙁🙁 Great channel and video series. 🎸
I agree with you entirley regarding the purchase of theses parts. For example my friend wanted the small backup battery for his mercedes, over here (Cyprus ) it would cost 55 euro. The Ford focus has the exactly the same battery for 10 euro.
Here in Sydney, BMW wanted me to pay around $6K for a clutch/dual mass flywheel assembly, fitted totalling roughly $9K. I went to a Eurpoean specialist mechanic, bought the same clutch + flywheel assembly and fitted cost me around $2,800. I guess there are many who just pay the asking assuming they have no worthy option. Hefty gouging.
These videos are SO satisfying! What I don't understand is how you can do so much work and not bark your knuckles or smash a finger? BTW, I love the rooster!
Keep in mind that manufacturers are doing design for mass production they tend to avoid having custom made parts. That delays production and skyrockets cost. So they peruse manufacturers of stock parts to see what is close and design to use that. Bearings, seals and many other parts are stock mass produced items. That clutch was made by a standard company. It probably made the AM clutch.
Oh, and I'd love to see this turned back to STOCK (as much as possible) - I'm not a mod-snob so if there's things that make sense (like some interior "improvements") that would be cool but those wheels "gotsto GO".... Also, I wonder if a Ford Fusion front end or at least grill would fit on that ;-) Keep up the awesome hard work there Sam!
You should have left the white plastic centre in the oil seal, it is there to help you fit the seal over the the end of the crankshaft without damaging it, it then pops out after you get the seal in place, also most rear main oil seals nowadays are coated in a special compound, you put them in dry, no oil or grease.
I might've been holding the rod upside down, but it still got a ton of action after playing Fishing Clash: fishingclash.onelink.me/dkOM/samcrac
8:15 Sam I don't think the rooster should really be teaching you about cars 😂
Pretty sure you broke fitting by turning wrong way
I think if you went fishing with your step-mom your rod would get plenty of action.
That rooster is just giving you a warning that he is about to attack. lol
Sam, dont kill the rooster. he gave me laughs.
Please, for the love of everything that is holy, do not run that dollar oil filter. They are garbage paper that can clog and destroy your engine. Also, use a line wrench for the brake lines, and righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. ;)
That's RIGHT!
I like rounding off brake lines.
Yea, you caught righty-tighty too on the clutch bleed line.
Yeah cheap oil filters are garbage, I have several Fram oiled filters I bought that need to get tossed
Every oil filter can clog after a different amount of time. But the good filters have a working bypass valve unlike the cheap ones.
Please get a real oil filter, a Mobile One M1-213 is correct for the car, or get a m1-213a (Ford 2021) since it’s rated for more miles, just don’t run that garbage filter. It makes fram filters look good.
Edit: Updated the mobil number thanks to Brandon pointing out I pulled the part number on an old v8 vantage not the jag engine Sam has.
You're correct but theres no point buying top shelf parts if he doesnt even know if the cars going to be driveable. Ie: the transmission might also be junk, or the rear end, or it might overheat after it runs for a while. Idk
Agreed!
@@getchasome6230 you can order the part for $10, its very critical as it’s your oiling system. When I had a shop I had people argue against using high quality oil for first startup as it’s common to change in the first 10 minutes. First start is a engines most vulnerable time, shouldn’t that call for the best protection you can give it? You just invested thousands on a engine and worry about $60 of oil. Your lubrication system is never the thing to go cheap on.
Ok Jared, but you know this filter is OEM right???
@@Samcrac I think it’s a scam Sam, it might stand for Only English men
The reaction to the rooster deserves two likes!
I think Sam had chicken last night.
Rooster shut the f...! lol
😅😅😅
Here’s a trick I learned from the rooster 😂
Tbf it was being a bit of a cock.
That rooster knows what he’s talking about when it comes to installing rear main seals. Great trick, learned something new.
Subscribed today. My dad was famous for having his pickup, tractor, lawn mowers, or horse fences and gates “fixed for cheapest price”. He’s use electric wire to hold a fence post up and horses would walk out of the still “rigged” repairs and make their way on the highway at 3 A.M. when he was miles away and I’d have to answer the call from the police or a neighbor that his horses where on the road and needed to be rounded up. He had chickens and goats that did the same thing! I enjoy your projects. Please keep them coming.
That rear main seal came with a plastic insert that was to slip over the crank and help you open up that inner seal flange to get over the crank
And you never lube the outside part of the seal
@@chekolevski7273 💯
Was going to say the same.
This is very much a ‘How-Not-To-Do’ video 🤦🏻♂️
Oil filters (and oil) are the one thing you don’t want to cheap out on, at least not on unbranded stuff. Oil filters are more than just what the outside looks like
Yeah seriously, some things are ok to cheap out on and some just are not worth it, Sam is just too cheap on some things IMO.
I always buy NAPA gold or better. Rebranded WIX filters essentially. Oil is cheap, engines aren't
I mean how do you expect a guy who basically repair cars for living to know that
Lol. You guys really should do research
@@robertm5969 NAPA gold for Aston or other car?
Props to Sam for being a regular bloke paying respect to people for simply been nice. Well done bro.
🇬🇧✊
Free clutch tip: Sometimes a deep 1/2 inch drive socket will fit the pilot bearing while being too small for clutch plate. Carefully wrap electrical tape evenly round the socket to take up the slack. You'll end up with a tool that snugly stays in the clutch plate and slips nicely in the pilot bearing 😉
THANK YOU for showing the rockauto discounted parts thing. You just helped me fix my xterra for $20 instead of $60.
How that rooster hasn't become fried chicken by now is beyond me.
I was laughing so hard at the rooster part. I was kinda waiting for Sam to yell at him how he's gonna eat the rooster for dinner😂
How do you make fried chicken out of a rooster?
@@CoreMaster111 Roosters are male chickens.
Rooster meat too tough got boil it long time.
Sam had chicken last night
The rooster saw me eating a chicken dinner and threatened me; it's why I had to re-upload. I'm thinking of having seconds now, but I don't have any leftovers 😒
LOL, Sam.. “That damn rooster, shut the F… up.” You should use the smallest mallet on the rooster. 😂
Hey Sam, if you keep that airlift setup on it. I recommend getting on airlift's website and getting the instructions. You don't want to drive it with over/under inflated bags.
That dang rooster 🐔 😂
Look at the filter he put, i will die looking at that
@@ahyaan2552 nah it’s OEM he’s good
Gotta love that rooster😂😂
Grew up on a farm. you dont need a rooster to get eggs, so call that rooster chicken soup.
The alice in chains rooster song would have been great to have played if it wasn't copyrighted.
A thousand props for finding Kentucky Clutch. We live in a throwaway society, and I have tons of respect for shops that rebuild auto parts like alternators, starters, trannys, and now clutches.
Not sure I'd go with a $1.10 oil filter that is labeled "Original Engine MANAGEMENT" (a Chinese play on OEM?). Especially considering it is called out/cross referenced for the XJ8 only and not the Vantage (the AJ-V8 in the Vantage calls for 10w60 while the XJ8 is 5w30). Going with a cheap oil filter that is manufactured to have similar pressure-flow characteristics, filtration efficiency, and filter bypass pressure would be preferred but good luck figuring that out for the Vantage OE oil filter. I probably would have chosen a Wix or Mann filter for $6-15 instead.
Is RockAuto known for selling bad parts? I've bought counterfeit parts from eBay and Amazon (never again) but would like to think that RockAuto sells stuff that isn't crap.
about only thing i would put a 1.10$ oil filter on is my 14hp lawn mower, but it doesn't have an oil filter so saved 1.10$ there.
Right…… I was like come on man!!! Get a fucking WIX XP!
@@joephysics5469 Rock Auto is a great retailer. Like any place that stocks a wide array of parts they'll sell the really cheap stuff from China all the way to the actual OEM version of a part. Prices for either end of the range is usually very good and their shipping at least to me is fast even with the cheapest option.
@@arizonaoperator saw a after market oil filter for Toyotain diesel cut in1/2 had a roll of toilet paper to filter no bull shit
Every time I think “well, Sam surely can’t go anywhere but the dealer now” he finds a new solution. It’s awesome to see you find workarounds for what would otherwise be an endless money pit
When I was younger I had a 02 Lincoln LS V8 had parts from Jaguar Mercedes Lincoln Ford all-in-one motor lots of parts are interchangeable for cheaper fixes
Props to you for sourcing your clutch from an aftermarket company. These guys know clutches and can rebuild anything and everything. I'm glad that shops like this still exist; considering most cars have automatic transmissions these days.
Honda Bond ( or Yamabond) is the go, on outside edge of seal. Oil center.
My daughter used to sell parts at an auto part store. I was trying to tell her that some much less expensive parts are identical to really pricey ones. She said she didn't know how to find out how to match up parts like that. All the advice on that even every day cars and trucks is greatly appreciated.
7:17 - the plastic protector that was inside of the new seal at 5:18 is usually an installer sleeve which stays in the new seal and holds the lip in as the seal is installed. You place the sleeve with the seal on it on the rear flange of the crank, then push or drive the seal in, then remove the sleeve after the seal is in the proper depth.
Came here to mention this, don't stretch the teflon rear main seal before fitting it! that is why it is on a sleeve. Should really avoid touching the lip at all.
Do you drive the plastic protector ON the crank? I tried to figure this out but gave up after a few minutes.
@@Samcrac yes its flared, its meant to slip over the crank then push the seal onto the crank. discard the plastic and finish driving the seal in. a lot of rear mains match pvc and abs plumbing fittings as installation tools.
also rear mains are meant to be installed dry, no oil or it can pop out from crank case pressure.
If it was Teflon (PTFE) then it should have been installed dry - zero oil. The way Teflon works is that it transfers some of itself to the part being sealed effectively making a double seal. Any oil in there will make the PTFE seal fail way too soon. I think this seal was just rubber.
@@Samcrac The protector just slips/pushes onto the end of the crank, then you push/drive the seal itself into the back of the engine. The seal lip slides off of the protector and onto the crankshaft, and the lip ends up staying in the correct position. Then the protector is removed from the end of the crank and is no longer needed.
That Aston Martin oil filter is literally shelf worthy, why does it look that damn cool
To justify the price tag
Never drill a rear seal, run a drywall screw into it and pull it.
Contrary to popular belief, the flutes on the drill, assisted by gravity, pull debris away from the internals when drilling horizontally or upwards, and any breakout on the inside doesn't instantly explode inwards either.
@@TonyRule you are correct the flutes remove most of the swarf.
The danger lies in the damaging of seal surfaces and over drilling into block and or housings.
Using a screw will not generate swarf and also skips a step, making it more efficient. If the screw does contact something after the hole is thru the seal, it will push the seal out as well.
@@uncommonlogic1698 you can see where the drill hit the crankcase behind the seal, you could even hear it hit it.
Luckily not a critical face in this instance.
That is not a good way to remove a Real seal. You can damage the crank and the housing. As others stated. Use some sheet metal screws and a slide hammer. Do not screw all the way through . usually 4-6 of them and I can mount a plate with my slide hammer and its take very little force to get them out.
Better yet...leave it be unless it's leaking, which that one wasn't. There's no guarantee that the replacement won't start leaking right away.
Awesome work with getting the clutch bits sourced affordably.
The plastic piece that came with the seal is for installing the seal on the crank. You slip it over the flange with the seal attached and then pull the plastic off. Seal is on and no lip damage. Also, it looks like enough has been said about the cheap ass oil filter. Don't be the typical used car flipper. Take it off and spend another $5 for a good quality one. Gotta love the rooster.
Im in Canada and i bin buying all my parts for my cars from Rock Auto they really ROCK luv em to my door in 3 days price plus shipping and $ convertion way cheaper then here .....Dude NEVER shut up the ROOSTER he is the ROCK of the property...cut him some slack he is just doing his job and beautifully i may add..............Long live the ROOSTER!
Years ago, while replacing the clutch on my T/A LS1 M6, I replaced the rearmain. Installed everything back, go to start, and it GUSHES oil out from the back of the motor. I pull everything again, no lift, and found the oil seeping from behind the flywheel. I had not seated it deep enough, it was flush with the motor. I install everything again, and go to start, and fuck my life, oil everywhere again.... Took it all back apart and didn't stop pounding that fucking rearmain until it was about an 1/8 deep into the motor. Never had a problem with it again. My neck was fucked for days.
My lesson that day was to test shit before you spend 3 hours putting shit back together.
Yeah, I take pics of everything as I take it apart so I know what it should look like when the new stuff goes on. And still research like mad online to see others doing it. I knew nothing at all about PTFE seals that needed replacing on my 2004 V6 Passat cams - 4 of them - but learned so much in the process! I am so thankful for videos like even this one!
@@Fearls1, I kinda feel your pain to a lesser extent. As a noob I wrecked my '99 auto Prelude and my friend had a '92 5MT with a blown motor. I pulled my auto motor. No hoist so jacked up on cinder blocks and a dolley under the motor to slide it out. Ripped the blown motor off the 5MT and slid the new one under. Could not get the torque converter off the good motor to replace with a flywheel and clutch. The motor was too heavy to get in the back seat. I ripped off the head and got the block in the can. Drove to the shop and they got the torque converter off and put the new flywheel/clutch on. Get back to the car and get the block out, put the head on and time it. Now to slide it under the car and line up the motor and tranny. NO IDEA WHAT A CLUTCH ALIGNMENT TOOL WAS! For 3 days I was there trying to get this thing to line up and could not figure out what was going on. Pure frustration. Went to the mechanic and explained what was going on and...DO YOU HAVE A CLUTCH ALIGNMENT TOOL? Me:what? Mechanic:Shakes head. I went, got the tool for a few bucks and lined it up 1,2,3.
@@elmayimbe_the_amateur_mechanic 🤣🤣🤣
Sam... don't cheap out on oil filters... I'm sure you'd be able to find a Wix reference that fits that engine...
napa gold is also a re branded wix
I can’t wait to see @samcrac buy a salvage titled Koenigsegg Regera in a couple of years time and ghetto restore it with John Deere tractor parts.
You'd probably need the John Deere workshop to reset the electronics on their parts before you can use them, tractors aren't anywhere near as repairable as they used to (or should) be.
2:43 An easy way to get out that bearing is to create a hydraulic ram basically, ie fill the centre of the bearing with grease, pack it in there, then get a something that fits perfectly into the centre of the bearing, like a round piece of steel, then put some plastic over it, some shrink wrap, so the the seal is good, place it on the centre of bearing, and hit it with a hammer, it pushes in, compacts the grease creating a hydraulic pressure effect, and out comes the bearing.
Believe it or not, soft bread does an excellent job for this also. It will nearly liquify under pressure and creep around behind the back of the bearing and is so easy to clean up!
Yep I was just thinking the same thing
May be try this, when you do the rear seal, start it then bolt the flywheel on and use that to push the seal home, take it off and the amount left to go is the thickness of the cardboard shim you make and put on top of the seal and then put the flywheel back on and remove and re-check it, job done.
16:48 "well that was worthless, it broke fitting right off" was turning it the wrong way 😂🤣
Right?! I was like “ wtf that’s going to…….o snap”. Then acts as if it was a “wear part” with limited service life lol…..
Whoops...
Lmao I am not even good at working on my own vehicles and I noticed that too. Looked for this comment.
I was looking for this comment 😅😂🤣
Weird - I've already watch this - then it disappeared and then re-appeared.... Can't wait to see the resolution to the throw-out bearing issue - as always great content and great work!
Oh man, I'll just tell you I love American car part shopping!!!
yeah, me too. Watched it, went to comment and it was set to private, and now back. Figured that he posted it too soon since we do not normally see them on Saturdays, but now it is back...
Thanks for posting this. Just woke up from what I thought was a 10 hour sleep to see this already watched video was posted 9 hours ago. Thought I was losing it but a repost now makes sense.
That rooster is money. Hardest I’ve ever laughed at Sam.
Can we just give sam some love....dude does this all on jack stands while other youtubers have shops and lifts. WOW
Thanks
Kentucky Clutch is an awesome find. Thanks for sharing!
We have this master clutch artisans here in Mexico. They will rebuild just any clutch you give them for a fraction of a new one.
I've seen videos of people in Pakistan doing similar! Refacing clutch discs used to be common even in the USA.
@@802Garage it is often done for trucks and heavy equipment.
When you pull a seal simply run a self taping screw through the seal and then grab the screw with a claw hammer.
Throw that stupid seal puller in the scrap bin.
A million thanks for giving Kentucky clutch a shout out, I'm currently about to send out my 1970 Saab 9-6 clutch to them. You just ended a year-long headache of getting this car done.
Crazy seeing Kentucky Clutch plugged on here. They are local to me and have the coolest little shop. They’ve helped me out in a pinch a number of times, and will continue to be my go-to for anything clutch related.
I love how you remove the plastic install tool that keeps the seal from folding over during install. And those oil filters are different. I’m sure it has less filter media in it. But hey, it’s your car
This is just someone that didn't realise that some cars are more expensive to run and maintain.
That installation tool it's the good one that allow you to slide seal with easy. I'm not going to comment on oil filter because way to many times i had to explain why there is price difference of different manufacturers, different quality etc.
Frighteningly incompetent whilst trying to sound knowledgable, see the Ferrari floor repair for more laughs
Love your work Samcrac. Your my favorite TH-cam channel.
With the $3600 you saved on the clutch perhaps now you may be able to afford a lift.
He can obviously afford a lift, he just doesn't want one for some reason.
if sam has a lift everything would be easy and boring for us.
@@OMGWTFLOLSMH for content lol
@@OMGWTFLOLSMH I think he said in a comment on one of his other videos that it had something to do with the fact that this area is a stable on his property and that was the reason he did not want to put a lift in. I know he mostly has cars in there but it could affect the value of the property if he one day decides to sell the place and the potential buyers see a hydraulic lift in the front of the stable. This is just my guess (hopefully educated).
The white plastic sleeve is to install the seal without flipping the centre
Great reveal! I'm an old hot rodder & this proves the old adage, necessity Is the mother of invention
I love how they refer to OEM as original engine management lol
Great to see Sam getting his hands dirty again, and hopefully we see this car get restored back to good working shape with some of those aftermarket mods that are on there now.
I love seeing you develop workarounds to the factory parts. The custom clutch is a great option.
Kind of stuff I did in my teens & early 20's when I had no budget. Good old days.
Paddle clutch will make the car horrid to drive in traffic, also the extra vibration will take the comfort away from Aston style. For ultimate power and performance 👍 however them Aston engine and transmission mounts cost a fortune and will not last long with uprated clutch.
Hi Sam.....good video, keep up the good work. As to installing the rear main, a person can use a clean block of wood that would span across the outside diameter of the crank which gives a soft but firm pressure to gently push in the seal and then work your way around the seal. Using the old obviously works well also.
Having looked at a few of your vids, it's abundantly clear that you have experience with repairs that ordinary wrench wielders never get. I'm not sure ordinary professional mechanics can do what you do😅.
Try Pegasus Supply up in Wisconsin for that clutch line fitting. They deal in bits for road racing cars and have knowledgible tech guys on the phone.
Just love how Sam always finds a thrifty way to fix these supercars. Great job. Top 3 TH-cam channels for me.
Glad you like them!
didnt realize the left hydraulic thow out line fitting was left handed threads....unless......you turned it the wrong direction? please verify this. love the work you do with these cars. keep it up
No reason to be a left hand thread …..suspect it was been done up tighter and snapped !!
My thought too, he was turning the wrong way!!
Yup, turned it the wrong way and broke it.
If it was left handed, why is it threaded M8x1.25 when checked?
Samcrac, thanks for all your great projects. You have shown that you don't have to spend a lot to fix or upgrade your car. Plus that you can do it on your own by investigating tips online like here. Big Fan and love exotic cars series. I am in Canada so can't get the deals you offer, but you have taught me how to dig deep to get deals!
Who wants to see a video by Sam of his cars 1-5 years later? I think it would be a riot!
It helps to turn the tool counter-clockwise to remove fittings. You turned clockwise and snapped it off because you were tightening it. It probably wouldn't have broke if you didn't use adjustable wrenches for all the work. Keep those away from cars and on plumbing work only.
Glad I wasn't the only one that saw that. XD
Yep, get some crow foot wrenches Sam!
Personally I'd run the $7 seal but I'm definitely gonna run the OEM oil filter
Imagine buying a used Aston and realising the previous owner used a $1.10 oil filter 😅
Imagine buying any car and finding the previous owner was Sam! 😆
that Key just looks like a £10 ford fiesta/escort key from the 90's . The rooster has a mean sense of humour.
To those watching without being subbed ... you are really missing out on great content from a great guy !
And valuable knowledge
The rooster doesn't bother me one bit. Just ignore him and let us get a laugh from it! Thanks for the video Sam!
Step mom needs to come outside to chase down and grab that co.... Err, rooster and put it back in the coop
@@johnhutchison9782 or make a vid of her jumping on the rooster lol
The rooster is more interesting, and productive, than Sam.
Sam: "Get the smallest mallet you have. Shame on me for not having a smaller mallet"
Produces a claw hammer and proceeds to use that instead.
When all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a rear main seal?
Same concept as SQUARE PEG ROUND HOLE. You'd think 🤔 he'd have one.....
Very very good Sam!!! It’s unbelievable what that kind of brands are charge us for a simple part! A clutch for 2800 bucks………a bleedniple for 115 bucks??? What the f…! You can’t explaine that to a client, I always want to help a client and you can’t do that with this insane prices , keep on with this work, I love you’re videos! Greetz from the Netherlands , ramon
Right on
A clutch for 2800 pounds (£). That symbol is pounds sterling Great Briton
@@cosmicHalArizona Britain*
@@cosmicHalArizona Great Britain is an island, The correct name of the country is The United Kingdom, which includes England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland.
Aston Martin owners aren't renowned for common sense or knowledge - otherwise they'd just buy a Ford Fusion.
Fwiw I used to wind up a cow-orker regularly by asking how well his Ford Fusion (Jaguar) was driving today...
I had an Aston Martin DB9 Volante. It's practically theft what their dealers try and get away with.
It had a small leak from the lower radiator hose. The dealership quoted $2,500 (claiming an enormous amount of labor; remove the radiator, drain the system, etc.). I brought it to my local mechanic - Morans Auto Repair in Floral Park , NY - who fixed it for $70. The dealer quoted $575 for an oil change. Morans did it for $125.
I always used other oil filters. I only checked the threads as lots of rubber seals on filters have a common size. Never blew an engine or prematurely wore one out.
if im not mistaken, the breather tube broke as you turned it the wrong way with the wrench (16:47), oops! Great videos never the less :-)
I noticed that too he did turn it the wrong way
17:10 "this one came out no problem"
yeah, when you turn it the right way
That's Sam for ya! He does so much wrong but figures it out eventually.
Breather tube?
Sign of a true backyard mechanic -- uses a 60-year-old adjustable wrench!
But should normally reverse the wrench. The moving part should take the force near the base and not near the tip. That is how it's strongest and has the least play.
That's what it referred to as a nutfucker!
Please discard the air suspension Sam, and reinstate standard suspension. Great video.
I’m not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination but I just watched this entire thing and I was not disappointed. Well done sir.
Sam once again your doing brilliant shade tree work. Thank you so much for the Kentucky Clutch source. Here in Austin when we need hydraulic lines and parts we run down the street from Jessie James speed shop where there is an excellent company that deals in all things hydraulic. If they don’t have it or a quality sub at pennies on the dollar vs OEM you don’t need it. There has to be a place in your area that deals in hydraulic specialty. Look in Brandon they like to be close to heavy equipment and farm equipment.
Good luck and we’ll done. The Cuban 57 chev community would be impressed and they weave fan belts out of banana leaves!!!
FSM lies 75Lbs is not tight enough on those flywheel bolts. They will back out in 6000 miles. Thread loc is a good idea.
There is thread lock and if they back out in 6k miles I'll eat that rooster.
@@Samcrac Raw?
@@jamesmay5394 I think the roosters name is salmonella
it's about right, assuming they are not stretch bolts. A lot of modern engines use stretch bolts on the flywheel, so they are something like 36ftlb and then 90 degrees rotation beyond that. This stretches the bolt, so you can only use them once. On on stretch bolts, 75 ft lb is about right for a 12mm bolt.
@@Samcrac ratchet wrenches are not that expensive, why use ancient universal wrench.....
It looks like you might have been wrenching that fitting in the wrong direction.?
Keep up the great work Sam!
Ty. Real stuff! I pot a $20 Triumph clutch (more material than OEM) on my '03 BMW K1200LT motorcycle.
Hey, when removing the seals, after you drill the hole, us a self thread screw to back the seal out.
Watched this while putting my kids to bed and cracked up during the rooster. My kids weren't amused 🤣
Whoever eventually buys this Frankenstein Aston Martin from Samcrac is in for a world of hurt . Great videos though .
I love how you are willing to take a chance on something and not let fear hold you back.
My son can't understand why I don't want to buy an Aston. Maybe I should make him watch this series of videos and say "see, this is why, right here!" Thanks for sharing. From UK.
They are actually very reliable cars. If you can work on them yourself and source generic parts, they’re very reasonable cars to own. I put a supercharger on mine. Crazy expensive mod, but boy was that fun!!!
love it. I have a 1994 Maserati Ghibli II in rural Australia - hard to impossible to get 'factory' spares but if you can find the Ford, BMW or Fiat equivalent, good to go!
Yay it’s back!
I love the relationship with Sam and the Rooster. Makes me laugh.
These ads are TOO CLEAN!! Loving the vids on the Aston, keep up the great work!
The rooster killed me I'm dead lol 😆 💀 🤣 😂 😭
Can you just paint the rims Silver or Black? And cover the air suspension tank with a classy cover, that reduces the look and noise, without overheating the pump? Rest of interior makes it unique, even if boarding line cheesy. 🙁🙁 Great channel and video series. 🎸
If you want to save a buck or two. OEM is preferred, but is it worth it on this example? Your call.
The plastic ring that came inside the rear main seal. Is the insulation tool to keep the seal from folding In while your installing it.
I relate to that "My rod never gets any action" line.
Trt therapy and a wad of hundos can change your life....😉
That rooster had me dying! And yes please dont use that cheap "OEM" filter.
I agree with you entirley regarding the purchase of theses parts. For example my friend wanted the small backup battery for his mercedes, over here (Cyprus ) it would cost 55 euro. The Ford focus has the exactly the same battery for 10 euro.
Here in Sydney, BMW wanted me to pay around $6K for a clutch/dual mass flywheel assembly, fitted totalling roughly $9K. I went to a Eurpoean specialist mechanic, bought the same clutch + flywheel assembly and fitted cost me around $2,800. I guess there are many who just pay the asking assuming they have no worthy option. Hefty gouging.
Let’s go finally
I was halfway through the video and went to shower, cake back and it was gone😂 Glad it’s back up.
Sorry!
Rip
@@Samcrac haha no worries! I thought you uploaded it early by accident and got a sneak peak😂
Having the clutch rebuilt was a great idea. I figured you would have said you was able to cross reference it due to the Frankenstein parts they used.
These videos are SO satisfying! What I don't understand is how you can do so much work and not bark your knuckles or smash a finger? BTW, I love the rooster!
I love all the money saving tips. One of the best TH-cam channels for great tips
Keep in mind that manufacturers are doing design for mass production they tend to avoid having custom made parts. That delays production and skyrockets cost. So they peruse manufacturers of stock parts to see what is close and design to use that.
Bearings, seals and many other parts are stock mass produced items.
That clutch was made by a standard company. It probably made the AM clutch.
Oh, and I'd love to see this turned back to STOCK (as much as possible) - I'm not a mod-snob so if there's things that make sense (like some interior "improvements") that would be cool but those wheels "gotsto GO".... Also, I wonder if a Ford Fusion front end or at least grill would fit on that ;-) Keep up the awesome hard work there Sam!
Ford fusion ewww
Now I just need to source an Aston to go with my new $400 clutch.
You should have left the white plastic centre in the oil seal, it is there to help you fit the seal over the the end of the crankshaft without damaging it, it then pops out after you get the seal in place, also most rear main oil seals nowadays are coated in a special compound, you put them in dry, no oil or grease.