Thank you so much you're the only one that properly explains how to put this together the easy way headache-free without causing gouges up the line thank you
Your voice is incredibly soothing. I almost didn’t pay attention to the vid 🤣😂 I cant wait til my hubby gets home so I can get testing the fuel line 💃🏾💃🏾💃🏾💃🏾 This is weirdly exciting 🤣😂🤣
Your tutorial is like an evil dead Ash closeup weapons making montage. “Grooovy....” This was smooth, I’m going to try and fix my leak on my Saab right before the check valve over the fuel pump.
Thank you, that is exactly what I was looking for, that 2nd method w/hair dryer. I received one unit (Fuel Pump Assembly for 2001 Saturn SL2), it is OEM, but the central tube isn't pushed all the way to the end, like a gap ~2mm to where it is supposed to be. I thought maybe to use heat gun a bit, but was afraid to damage the tube (and the unit is ~$330), as was said in the film. But the hair dryer won't hurt anything. Also that type of connections you can see on many aftermarket FPs, if you want to replace just the motor, you would need to disconnect and put back a lot of those w/wavy surface.
Thanks for these quick and easy tips! Now I can replace my broken quick release valve on my return line hose a without spending a fortune for a new one. Video was very well done also. Short, sweet, to the point and very informative 👍
Fantastic thankyou repaired my nylon car fuel line after the garage split the nylon pipe replacing my fuel filter . The part I needed was not manufactured anymore so I took a pipe from a car of the same make and year from a breakers yard and used the push on connectors as described . Purchased the connectors from amazon for £5.00 for 5 connectors. Brilliant 👏 video.
Wow... liked and subscribed. The calming voice is such a nice contrast to the swearing that usually goes on when I'm messing with any kind of automotive plumbing!
I am awaiting some fuel line ends and unions, so glad to hear they work well, the unions. Also, that a hair drier would do the trick. I had to cut a whole to access the fuel leak. I had a factory made line I had never been able to replace, failing tiwce to remove the tank. Now, with the tank loosened a bit I easily slipped a wire down and drew the line into place. But after driving it seemed the other disconnect, the return line, leaked. Or, there was a leak on an extreme turn. In any case I have new ends and unions so--if I had damaged the factory part trying to remove the o-ring, I still have a way to go with new ends.
You are a lifesaver my guy. I've been looking for a helpful video on how to solve this issue with my Foxbody Mustang. I wanted to do the job the correct way instead of rigging something up. This video was greatly appreciated
Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for re-connecting opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposes to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
This was amazing. Thank you for keeping it simple, easy, and informative. I’m struggling with the quick connect to my fuel rail and I think now I can try it again
Definitely an audi a4! I am having the same issue. This was a nightmare to change. The filter leaked. The nylon split. Its been an ongoing battle to stop the leaking.
Get those Cheap Filters for Tractors. The Barb is included, just cut the Line and 2 Clamps and you are ALL SET !!! Future replacement would be easier too !!!
@mr. kevin greenwood Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for re-connecting opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposed to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
@@rbuggs3658 Get a piece of round stairway handrail, cut a 3" section, drill a straight hole (in the fuel line size you need 5/16 or 3/8) through the wood, then cut the wood with a thin bladed saw like a coping saw, this is the clamp that goes over the plastic line. Use hose clamps to hold it together.
@@rbuggs3658 ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1628357-home-brew-budget-nylon-fuel-line-tool.html read and look at the pictures, easier then explaining
The concentric ridges from the sandpaper help seal. Scratches from inside to outside (or patches of corrosion) will leak. I'd lay down a sheet of cardboard or something rather than dropping fuel system hoses in the dirt.
All very good info ... but you missed out the bit about refreshing the copper sealing washers for the 'Banjo' fitting these need to be anealed (softened) by heating to to red hot and being allowed to cool .. they will then seal the banjo more easily and effectively ...
@ Steve Jacobs Haaahh Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?) for TigHtly (so idiz seald) re-connecting opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposeD to also be passing high pressures: 40-60 psi؟؟! Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else?؟ I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay on Poniak Sunfire2000 without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had 150mL ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe under the car by using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for CrImPing and *tightlysealed* re-connecting of opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposed to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi?؟! Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
Great video, those couplers did not work for me on steel to vinyl. Steel side would slide off even after numerous times to fully seat.Have you tried using these with stainless steel fuel lines?
Did you ever find a diy solution? Only way I know is complete replacement or they have a pricey tool that makes quick disconnect flares on steel lines.
Very good work. Was wondering if you could use that style of quick connect fitting. Didn't think you could. Had them with reverse osmosis system before and they work great. Just wasn't sure about gas going threw them as it eats certain plastics...,
@TubesWidener Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for re-connecting opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposes to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
Do you have a technique for making tight radius bends without creasing? I've tried all heating methods but they will crease before getting to 90*. It must be possible since the OEM nylon line I am replacing has such bends. The 3/8 fuel line piece I'm replacing makes a tight S bend within 4". I can't even get close to that.
There are plastic fuel lines in a intank fuel pump in a Yaris, i couldnt change the filter because they wont come off, was concerned about using heat so i just cleaned the filter with carburetor cleaner in reverse ... will hold for now.
If you have to create a certain bend , you will have to put a soft copper piece of tube inside The plastic line , heat it and make your bend then remove the copper pipe. It’s called mandrel bending. It’s so the plastic line doesn’t kink.
Alot more simpler than really is...Never explained all the possible problems,for example when heated tube collapse ..used all 3 types of heating suggestions.
I installed those on my 93 ranger near the fuel tank . It was leaking somewhere , but I reconnected the the hose again and it not leaking . I dont know if I trust that on a fuel pressure line . I dont know.
@Milan milanello Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for cRImping and tightly re-connecting opened up rubber* fuel line/hose, that is supposed to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi?? Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else?? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
Just make sure you buy the ones designed for fuel. I'm sure the air brake ones would fail. I used a 3/8 brass compression union on my gm truck. The line was a hair bigger then 3/8 but with force the tubes went in.
Are those fittings in any way rated to handle fuel? From what I could find, they arenonly used for air in air compressor systems. That's kind of a big deal, tou dont want the plastic degrading over time and having fuel leaking everywhere...
I'm just running into this problem now and so glad I found this video! But would anyone know where I can find the parts to fix it? I can't find the compression fitting
If my nylon pipe is fine, but the old connector is broken, how can I remove the old connector without damaging the nylon pipe, to allow a new connector to be fitted to the old pipe?
is there a fitting that goes from one size to the other? My fuel pump has the 3/8's tube on it but then turns to 5/16 coming from the engine. So it doesn't seal!
Thank you so much you're the only one that properly explains how to put this together the easy way headache-free without causing gouges up the line thank you
Your voice is incredibly soothing. I almost didn’t pay attention to the vid 🤣😂 I cant wait til my hubby gets home so I can get testing the fuel line 💃🏾💃🏾💃🏾💃🏾 This is weirdly exciting 🤣😂🤣
Reminds me of Mr. Rodgers.
Your tutorial is like an evil dead Ash closeup weapons making montage. “Grooovy....”
This was smooth, I’m going to try and fix my leak on my Saab right before the check valve over the fuel pump.
Thanks for making this video. I'm not a mechanic but I can follow easy how to instructions. I found your video to be very helpful.
Thank you, that is exactly what I was looking for, that 2nd method w/hair dryer. I received one unit (Fuel Pump Assembly for 2001 Saturn SL2), it is OEM, but the central tube isn't pushed all the way to the end, like a gap ~2mm to where it is supposed to be. I thought maybe to use heat gun a bit, but was afraid to damage the tube (and the unit is ~$330), as was said in the film. But the hair dryer won't hurt anything. Also that type of connections you can see on many aftermarket FPs, if you want to replace just the motor, you would need to disconnect and put back a lot of those w/wavy surface.
Thanks from the Netherlands I was kinda desperate because of easter (holiday) but now i will fix it on my own! Thanks
Thanks for these quick and easy tips! Now I can replace my broken quick release valve on my return line hose a without spending a fortune for a new one. Video was very well done also. Short, sweet, to the point and very informative 👍
Fantastic thankyou repaired my nylon car fuel line after the garage split the nylon pipe replacing my fuel filter . The part I needed was not manufactured anymore so I took a pipe from a car of the same make and year from a breakers yard and used the push on connectors as described . Purchased the connectors from amazon for £5.00 for 5 connectors. Brilliant 👏 video.
Wow... liked and subscribed. The calming voice is such a nice contrast to the swearing that usually goes on when I'm messing with any kind of automotive plumbing!
haha def a more calming voice. he did say perfectly a few too many times but thats ok :P
Have done it the wrong way today, tomorrow I will follow these steps
rock and roll man! I want to equip all of my vehicles with a fuel pressure gauge port! Thanks so much again!
I am awaiting some fuel line ends and unions, so glad to hear they work well, the unions. Also, that a hair drier would do the trick. I had to cut a whole to access the fuel leak. I had a factory made line I had never been able to replace, failing tiwce to remove the tank. Now, with the tank loosened a bit I easily slipped a wire down and drew the line into place. But after driving it seemed the other disconnect, the return line, leaked. Or, there was a leak on an extreme turn. In any case I have new ends and unions so--if I had damaged the factory part trying to remove the o-ring, I still have a way to go with new ends.
You are a lifesaver my guy. I've been looking for a helpful video on how to solve this issue with my Foxbody Mustang. I wanted to do the job the correct way instead of rigging something up. This video was greatly appreciated
Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for re-connecting opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposes to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi
Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
You saved me lots of time and money with this tutorial. Many thanks!!!
This was amazing. Thank you for keeping it simple, easy, and informative. I’m struggling with the quick connect to my fuel rail and I think now I can try it again
😊😅mll😊😊 min
Absolutely wonderful. Very helpful. I went the T shaped quick connect
Your a legend I had an issue with same plastic pipe but on the oil line for the transmission cooler, Thank you so much.
Definitely an audi a4! I am having the same issue. This was a nightmare to change. The filter leaked. The nylon split. Its been an ongoing battle to stop the leaking.
Get those Cheap Filters for Tractors. The Barb is included, just cut the Line and 2 Clamps and you are ALL SET !!! Future replacement would be easier too !!!
Very very helpful with the barb fitting the proper way thanks this is what I have been looking for 🙏
Tried the oil and hot water technique worked great 👍 easy peezy thx!!!
If you anneal the copper washers using a propane torch, they will seal better around the banjo fitting.
Having the same exact problem on my 06 Avalanche thanks for the tip I should have thought of this perfect fix! Thanks for the vid
Excellent info ! Many thanks from the UK !!!!
@mr. kevin greenwood
Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for re-connecting opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposed to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi
Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
You can use a caulk gun and wooden clamps to press on fittings cold.
I tried the heating methods with no luck. Using the caulk gun worked great!
can you explain the caulk gun method? thanks
@@rbuggs3658 Get a piece of round stairway handrail, cut a 3" section, drill a straight hole (in the fuel line size you need 5/16 or 3/8) through the wood, then cut the wood with a thin bladed saw like a coping saw, this is the clamp that goes over the plastic line. Use hose clamps to hold it together.
@@rbuggs3658 ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1628357-home-brew-budget-nylon-fuel-line-tool.html
read and look at the pictures, easier then explaining
The concentric ridges from the sandpaper help seal. Scratches from inside to outside (or patches of corrosion) will leak.
I'd lay down a sheet of cardboard or something rather than dropping fuel system hoses in the dirt.
I was also wondering about those plastic couplers to plastic lines now that I seen you do it, I know what I'm going to do, thank you so much!!!!!!
Great video, only thing I will change is using it least 400 grit sandpaper.
Can I use the same techniques on evap lines that are hard plactic thank you very much
Thanks for the video. Subaru Nylon doesn't flex with heat btw. but may work with other vehicles.
Great vid. Plus my blood pressure just went down 20 points.
All very good info ... but you missed out the bit about refreshing the copper sealing washers for the 'Banjo' fitting these need to be anealed (softened) by heating to to red hot and being allowed to cool .. they will then seal the banjo more easily and effectively ...
@ Steve Jacobs
Haaahh
Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?) for TigHtly (so idiz seald) re-connecting opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposeD to also be passing high pressures: 40-60 psi؟؟!
Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else?؟ I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay on Poniak Sunfire2000 without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had 150mL ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe under the car by using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
Any recommendations om what to use to connect steel line to a nylon gas line
Nice presentation; however, having you provide the (Dorman) part numbers of the fittings you used would have been nice.
You are a life saver sir. Thank you for the tip
I don't think clamp is necessary, but its definitely not a bad idea.
Well done! This video gives me confidence.
This is great video I think this will work on my Mercedes Benz turbo coolant lines thanks
Good video very detailed. I like your comment about shying away from a heat gun and using a hair dryer because they don't get is hot.
Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for CrImPing and *tightlysealed* re-connecting of opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposed to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi?؟!
Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
Great video, those couplers did not work for me on steel to vinyl. Steel side would slide off even after numerous times to fully seat.Have you tried using these with stainless steel fuel lines?
Did you ever find a diy solution? Only way I know is complete replacement or they have a pricey tool that makes quick disconnect flares on steel lines.
Thank you. You helped me alot. I bought a hot air blower from harbor freight, but I might try the hot water first. Thank you.
Very good work. Was wondering if you could use that style of quick connect fitting. Didn't think you could. Had them with reverse osmosis system before and they work great. Just wasn't sure about gas going threw them as it eats certain plastics...,
Great video answered ? About removing union couplers!!!
agreed good presentation no freaky faces or jabbering on about needless stuff!
Daring a repairing real soon. ⛽
Greetings Sir from Egypt. By the way you could be one of the best voice narrators in the world if you like to!
@TubesWidener
Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for re-connecting opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposes to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi
Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
You hero, this is exactly what I needed to know !
This was so helpful
Today i have done this technique
Do you have a technique for making tight radius bends without creasing? I've tried all heating methods but they will crease before getting to 90*. It must be possible since the OEM nylon line I am replacing has such bends. The 3/8 fuel line piece I'm replacing makes a tight S bend within 4". I can't even get close to that.
I also need to know this
This guy’s voice fantastic! Go into radio guy who made this video!
There are plastic fuel lines in a intank fuel pump in a Yaris, i couldnt change the filter because they wont come off, was concerned about using heat so i just cleaned the filter with carburetor cleaner in reverse ... will hold for now.
I can’t thank you enough for your video…. !
Great vidéo, thanks from France
very helpful even 6 years later
If you have to create a certain bend , you will have to put a soft copper piece of tube inside
The plastic line , heat it and make your bend then remove the copper pipe. It’s called mandrel bending. It’s so the plastic line doesn’t kink.
Can they work on hydraulic clutch lines?
Could I take the nylon tubing off a purge valve with a heat gun like you use it to put nylon tubing on?
I'm hypnotized... you are getting sleeepy.....
Dude, thanks great video...fix my fuel line...
Alot more simpler than really is...Never explained all the possible problems,for example when heated tube collapse ..used all 3 types of heating suggestions.
Excellent i learn something new
I use the dorman jig to push the tube on because I wind up kinking it when I use my fingers.
what did you use PA6 or PA12 tube?
why do I want to rent a room now at motel 6 ?
He'll leave the light on for you (after he fixes it).
@@wcurtin1962 LOL
Well done 👍 thanks 🙏
thank you bud , i used the boiling water ,, think i will use the hair dryer now top man
Where can I buy those compression fittings? Are they for fuel ?
Great video 💯
I installed those on my 93 ranger near the fuel tank . It was leaking somewhere , but I reconnected the the hose again and it not leaking . I dont know if I trust that on a fuel pressure line . I dont know.
Are all push fit connectors fuel safe please. I dont see your link for that , I am at present repairing 4mm Nylon return fuel line .
Great video
I suppose this would not work with GDI high pressure fuel lines with pressures from 50 to 200 psi right?
You are a wonderful man
Thanks from morocco
@Milan milanello
Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for cRImping and tightly re-connecting opened up rubber* fuel line/hose, that is supposed to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi??
Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else?? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
The original didn't have the ear clamp on there, do you just use it for extra insurance?
Great Video!, Thanks
New drinking game. Drink every time he says perfectly.
Are the orings in the quick disconnect ok for use with fuel?
Just make sure you buy the ones designed for fuel. I'm sure the air brake ones would fail. I used a 3/8 brass compression union on my gm truck. The line was a hair bigger then 3/8 but with force the tubes went in.
How do I make the new hose into a certain shape as my old hose has a certain shape to it?
You’re the best.
thank you
Thank you thank you
thanks mate
You're a pro
Are those fittings in any way rated to handle fuel? From what I could find, they arenonly used for air in air compressor systems.
That's kind of a big deal, tou dont want the plastic degrading over time and having fuel leaking everywhere...
Where can I guy one of those barb fittings. My saab doesnt have one even tho it should
We're did you buy the black plastic compression fittings at??
amazon has them
Thank You!!
Very useful, thanks.
I'm just running into this problem now and so glad I found this video! But would anyone know where I can find the parts to fix it? I can't find the compression fitting
If my nylon pipe is fine, but the old connector is broken, how can I remove the old connector without damaging the nylon pipe, to allow a new connector to be fitted to the old pipe?
tnx
Repair work was perfect and video was perfectly done. ;) Sub'd. Thanks for sharing!
Great video, thanks for the info.
where do i get the clamps
Yourrrr Listening to the easyyyy sounds of 103.5FM The harp ....So sit right back enjoy Anddd let your paint brush cover up a multitude of sins
Thanks 👍
very informative thanks.
is there a fitting that goes from one size to the other? My fuel pump has the 3/8's tube on it but then turns to 5/16 coming from the engine. So it doesn't seal!
Napa has a book that has a reducer compression coupler in it goes from 3/8 to 5/16.
Thanks, good video.
How long do you boil in water?
i bud no one knows that to the min.. but just keep taking it out and pushing it only way bud hope this helps
@@michael6692
until it is soft obviously